Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems

ptoney87

I have a 2002 Suburban and the A/C in the rear works great but the A/C in the front only works occassionally. Sometimes it automatically comes on when you start the vehicle other times it will cut off while driving, other times it may click off and then comes right back on. I initially noticed that when set on auto and a 70 it would not stop blowing once it got to that temp, it would keep blowing full blast. My main concern at this time is the front controller shutting on and off. Any suggestions or solutions from others having these problems.

scubadoo4

Your compressor is going out. The noise is the idler pully pounding on the metal hydralic line for the transmission cooler. You will need to change your compressor!

hornet12

I recently purchased an 04 suburban with 124500 miles. It has auto climate control with front and rear A/C. It works great sometimes, every once in awhile it'll be blowing cold air, front and rear, all of a sudden it is as if the driver vents (driver's side, the one to the left of the steering wheel and the center one) will blow hot. As if the heater was turned on, and the passenger side and rear vents still blow ice cold. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this? ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated!

kiawah

have freon level checked

hornet12

It seems like it would be thermostat related, the passenger side and rear blow ice cold, and the driver HOT. It has separate controls for the driver and passenger. It's really irritating. When this happens, I can turn it off, and start it right back up and it will all blow cold. It all happens sporadically, not all the time.

kiawah

That's what you might think, but there's been a number of posts in the last month on a couple of these forums (on different mfg's), where left side blows hot and right side cold, and the fix ends up being topping off the freon. Problem solved.

hornet12

Thanks for your help, I will get it checked and post the outcome.

lodaniel

I am having the same problem with an 05 LT. Driver side blows hot, passenger and back cold. Hopefully you have fixed it. Could you update us on your progress?

natale

Since my last posting last year, i have not been able to resolve the issue i am having with the AC on my 2002 Tahoe. Now that we are on the verge of fall i am not going to worry about it as i am in an area of the country that will not require AC. I will probably be holding on to my Tahoe for about another 6 - 8 months and then i will be selling it.

queeneene

May '08 Bought used in Alaska and July '08 drove to Louisiana

July '08 A/C-Heat not blowing on driver side and leaking something(freon?) on Passenger side floor causing puddles...Dealership In Arkasas replaced blower motor. Wound up doing it again a day later...

August '08 Mechanic replaced something that made it all work until...

November '08 A/C-Heat went out throughout the whole vehicle in ...Mechanic replaced some box on passenger side which caused it all to work except the Drivers side.

July 09- Dealership in Louisiana says there's a leak and bottom half of a/c needs to be replaced, along with a part on the drivers side...$2,000. Bringing it back to my mechanic(friend) rather put money in his pocket AND he said, "no way on costing $2,000"

Any help info on this situation would be helpful!

kiawah

If your friend has looked at it and said no-way would it cost $2K to fix, and he knows what is wrong with it and can fix it, then you decide if it's worth it for him to try and fix it for him (and whether he really has any idea what he's talking about).

Otherwise you need to deal with a professional A/C shop, or a dealership. Many A/C shops are good on the A/C items inside the engine compartment, replacing parts and recharging. If you start talking about inside the cabin....personally....I'd be using the dealership who specialize in that particular brand.

hornet12

My Suburban is at a Chevy dealer at the moment. They say it is the driver side actuator and it had a refrigerant leak. We will see. I will post when I get it back with full details and whether it was the actual problem. This is obviously a common issue. I also have to get my instrument cluster replaced, again, another common problem. When did GM's quality go to S@*T?! :confuse:

nukes135

When accelerating from a stop I am hearing a noise that seems to be a belt slipping initially. It only happens when the front fan is turned on. It doesn't matter if the AC is on or off. When the fan is off accelerating or revving the engine doesn't produce the noise. So I was wondering what drives the AC fan? Is it belt driven? Is the AC compressor powered even if the AC is off, and could something w/in the AC system be making the noise?

kiawah

You don't mentione the year, make, or model of your vehicle, so I'm sure responses will only be generic in nature.

Since you mention the fan being 'turned on', I will assume that your fan is the type with electric motors. Assuming that the squeak isn't those electric motors themself, then I would suspect that those motors, are putting an electrical load on the alternator, which in turn is putting a physical load on the serpentine belt.

So you could have a worn belt (do you have more than 30-40K miles on this belt?) or the idler pulley for the belt is worn (or has a bearing going bad).

Many A/C systems have a clutch on the compressor. So although the outer pulley is spinning with the serpentine belt, only when the a/c clutch is engaged is when the compressor itself is turning and putting a load on the belt.

nukes135

Thanks for the reply, the issue is with my 2002 Chevy Suburban.

myze

I am fixing up a 2005 Chevy Suburban that was laid over on it left side. I have all the body work completed but when I connect the battery cable the front compartment interior fan comes on high speed. The fan runs wide open & the speed cannot be controlled by the fan speed knob, even though the light bar shows increasing & decreasing bars. The rest of the heater/ac position & temperatture controls work fine. What is really weird is that the fan runs even when the ignition switch is turned off. The only way to stop it is to disconnect the battery or pull the fan fuse. The rear heater/ac fan speed, discharge position, & temperature controls work fine as well.

My first thought was that the fan speed control switch was bad, but that doesn't explain why the fan would continue to run even when the ignition switch is turned off. My next thought was that there must power supply relay to the fan is stuck closed. I checked every relay in all of the fuse boxes, but couldn't find anything that appears to control the fan. Also if it was a stuck relay, it doesn't explain why the speed control doesn't work? I removed the kick panel on the P.S. & there is some sort of control board between the fan & the supply harness. I was hoping somebody could point me in the right direction, so I don't end up buying expensive circuit boards that won't fix the problem...

buck42

I have discovered the same buzzing of this device. What was yuor resolution?

mgdriver73

Anyone know how to fix the rear heater? It only blows cold air. Hoses leading to rear are hot, and air flows well.

jdreda

did you ever get this issue fixed my 04 is doing the same thing

mgdriver73

Yes, a friend of mine who is a mechanic returned it yesterday. He replaced the heater door module, which controls the rear door opening and closing. I think the part was ~$130. It is located in the right rear area under the panel. The heater coil is in this area. It could probably be done by an owner if you're used to working on cars. Good luck.

mvlski

You have a defective blower motor resistor. I recommend from a dealer because the part quality and warranty is better. Remove the lower plastic on the passenger side bottom of dash. It is a large black plastic cover retained by 3 7mm headed screws. Once the cover is removed you will see a round item sticking out of the very bottom of the black plastic heater box under the dash. You will see a 2 wire connector plugged into it. disconnect it. follow the 2 wires back to the resistor which is a small rectangular box retained by 2 gold screws and has another 6 or 7 wire connector plugged into it. remove the connector, and two screws, and it should pull out. Reverse the procedure to install.

cycln1

hi. did you ever get an answer to your issue? i have an 01 tahoe doing the same exact thing.

cycln1

hi. did you ever get an answer to your post? i am having the same problem with my 01 tahoe. any info would be greatly appreciated!

cycln1

I recently purchased an 01 tahoe that only blows air from the defrost/dash vents. The control knob also does not light up. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated!

gustheiceman

Hope you can help. 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT 1500 4x4. For a couple of weeks now the A/C hasn't worked, on Friday I had it re-gassed, there was only 2lbs in the system when there should have been 3lbs. Tried to get the A/C to cut in but no joy. The engineer said he had no idea why. I've bridge the terminals at the pressure switch and checked all the fuses and checked the relays (all OK) and can't get the compressor clutch to "Click in". Then somebody said, "Maybe it's because over the last month the temperature here in the UK has not been higher than 4 degrees, and having "Computer Climate Control” the A/C won’t kick in because the ambient temperature is too cold”, they also suggested maybe I need to re-set something after re- charging”.
Kind Regards
Gus
gussie@ntlworld.com

hatrick99

My suburban heat dial takes a long time to change temperature. When we turn the dial from hot to cold of vice versa the temperature takes an extremely long time to take effect. It doesn't matter if I am in heat or A/C mode.

We were told by a mechanic that the "bend" door is moving very slowly and takes a long time to open. I was also told you have to take the dashboard off to fix this.

Can somebody advise what they think the problem is and what it might cost to have it fixed?

kiawah

that would be 'blend', not 'bend'.

Blend, as in blending the hot air and the cold air, to get the temperature that you want.

gregbuquerque

I have had a similar issue with a '99 Tahoe 3-4 times, but what I get is only setting 4 works, and even that is intermittent. So I just leave it on that setting.

It's the pot/rhe/relay behind the dash, where (in my case) pin1 keeps getting corroded. I dremeled it the first time, but after that, I just replaced the part. $30 at GM or $18 at O'Reilly. (BWD part number S15002). I haven't addressed the corrosion issue.

woodrats

I have a 2000 suburban. I noticed a belt type "rattle" after my shop replaced the lower ac belt and tensioner pulley a couple of years ago. When I accelerate with the AC on, the belt seems to slip or wobble. After acceleration, its fine. I've gone through several belts, as well as several pulleys in the past 2 years. When I initially replace the belt and/or pulley, no noise, but after a week or so, it's back. I"m using an after market tensioner. The GM part lasted many years with no problem, so I'm wondering if I should replace with the actual GM tensionser and see if that solves the problem. Or, do I have other AC issues? Any thoughts?

alawin

I had the same issue and this problem is caused by liquid slugging in the compressor. What happens is that the compressor struggles to pump the liquid freon back up to the top, (due to the fact that GM decided to put the compressor so low in the bay), and this causes the compressor to shake violently, and rattle the tensioner to the point that it bangs the stop tabs (the source of the sound) I found an online GM Tech who gave this answer:
Quote:
Condition
Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of A/C system performance.

Cause
This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt
tensioner and serpentine belt may also be damaged.

Correction
Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following repair procedure:

1.) Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized. Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized, proceed to step 5.
2.) Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating,Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that are found.
3.) Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.
4.) After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.
5.) Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.
6.) Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace the transmission cooler lines if necessary.
7.) Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada, the District Service Manager).
8.) Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.
9.) Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.
10.) Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube Replacement procedure in SI.
* If the vehicle is a 2003 model yearChevroletExpressor GMC Savana van, the vehicle may require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the performance of the A/C system.
Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.
Verify proper operation of the A/C system.
Parts Information
Refer to the GMSPO parts catalog for the latest service replacement compressor part numbers.

Part Number
Description
Qty

89016656 (*A/C Delco Part# 15-10413)
Universal In-Line A/C Filter
1

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

*This filter may also be purchased through your local A/C Delco distributor.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

D4440
Compressor Assembly - Replace
Use published labor operation time

orbit308

I have an 07 Yukon. My problem is that when the vehicle is started, the rear a/c blows through the top vents fine. After about 30 seconds - 1 min, it goes to the floor vents. It does'nt matter what you do, it stays blowing through the floor vents. If you turn the vehicle off and back on, it will start at the top vents then go back to the floor again. Any ideas? I know its probably something to do with the mixing box, but could it be a vaccum problem or servos?
Thanks.

g13092

Did you ever find a solution to this problem? My HVAC controls display, radio display, and DIC display are all out, but the radio and HVAC still work. This is all after sitting out in the rain overnight. My 2004 burb is usually garaged....

jstev33

My compressor just stopped working in my 03 Suburban. Before it stopped it always make a loud noise under the engine. So I assume it is the compressor.

wbrtahoe

I have a 97 tahoe with a low pressure cutout switch on the accumulator that is leaking refrigerant. All the parts stores only list a compressor mounted switches. Is this the same switch? doesn't look the same! Does this switch have another name?

k5blazer79

I cant change air flow from floor to dash vent or defrost. I hear about air vent door actuators but I dont know where its located and how to get to it. Are there any diagrams to help me with this. thanks

pamelad

I have a 2005 Tahoe and it is 45degress outside and I'm having a hot flash. How do I get some cool air? My temp only goes tas low as 60!

gmcustsvc

Hello Pamelad,
I am from GM Customer Service. Although I cannot diagnose your vehicle over the internet, your A/C possibly may need to be recharged. If you feel that your temperature is not as cold as it usually is, then I would recommend taking it to the dealership to have it looked at. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service

crewdawg28

Check the drain behind the rt rear wheel. I had the same thing and soaked the whole floor to 2 nd row. All good now.

woodrats

jstev33, what did you happen to find out about your AC? It could have been the lower belt, which is a relatively easy replacement. I've had the same "noise" for several years now and can't seem to find a real cause. I'll end up replacing the belt at least 1x during the AC "season" (which runs about Mar-Nov here in Texas. Its annoying, but still a lot cheaper than a compressor.

89sigo

I have a 2000 suburban LT 1500 ; the A/C compressor seized up last November. I removed the A/C belt and then drove the truck through the winter. I recently replaced the A/C Compressor, added a a few cans of refrigerant plus a can of oil but the clutch on the new compressor does not engage. This is a rebuilt compressor from NAPA and the 2nd one that I have tried, so am wondering if there is another issue besides the compressor that I need to fix. Any ideas?

89sigo

The clutch and compressor were seized as the wheel that the belt spins would not move. In fact, when it siezed, we could not start the engine until I removed the belt to the A/C Compressor,

wellscc

Roll down the window. If 45 degrees isn't cold enough I don't know what to tell you. Don't take your truck to the dealership to get recharged just because the thermostat only goes to 60. The same kind of person that would tell you to recharge your A/C to fix this is the same sort of person that would charge you for a quart of elbow grease.

And you never just refill your A/C... The refrigerant isn't supposed to leave, so if it needs refilled you have a leak. That would need to be addressed also.

canada73

My climate control panel shuts off after a few minutes of the vehicle being on.
For awhile it was going on then off and back on like it had a mind of it's own.

nikt

My 1999 Tahoe loses Freon and cools "anemically" when recharged. It appears that the compressor is losing Freon through the front seal. Has any one changed an AC compressor on their Tahoe ? If so, any cautions before I tear into my Tahoe? And, what's the best (most reliable) compressor out there? For example, Rock Auto lists over ten different new and reman types with prices from $160 to $421. Any suggestions would be welcome.

NikT

kiawah

do you have a freon gauge set, and understand the a/c principles and normal mode of operation (ie. purpose of orifice, high and low pressures, pressure switches, oil, freon overfilling/underfilling, etc)?

nikt

To kiawah:

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, I do understand refrigeration principles, but I am not an expert and I have the help of a ASE certified mechanic. He has the gauges and tools, and is the person who diagnosed the leaky shaft seal of the AC compressor. He travels a lot and until he returns, I thought I could get a head start by researching available, suitable replacement AC compressors.

NikT

kiawah

Excellent, you should be in good shape then.

Assuming you are planning to keep the car a couple years, I personally would get the best quality I could get. You're saving on the significant labor cost. The risk/stakes are high if a compressor sends metal shavings into the refrigerant....it would mean a complete purge, replacement of parts, and rebuild. You may not have access to your friend in future years, so do it right, and do it once.

nikt

To kiawah;

Sounds like good advice to me. I'll follow through.

Thanks again,

NikT

shutemdown

i have a 2000 chevy suburban that had good air last year not great but good .now that i tried it this year i have nothing i have tried to add freon but it would not take it the clutch is not clicking on and the is no noise of any kind when the air is turned on any help is appreciated thanx

simonizer17

AC NOISE 03/TAHOE. THE SYMPTOM IS USUALLY RATTLING OR EXCESSIVE TENSIONER MOVMENT ON ACCELERATION. THE CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY AN A/C SYSTEM WITH LIQUED SLUGGING CAUSED BY A DEFORMED RETAINER GASKET.GM RECOMMENDS REPLACING THE A/C COMPRESSOR TO RECTIFY THE PROBLEM. A TEAC. SERVICE BUULITON TAB #01139B/C WAS ISSUED BY GM. THE TITLE WAS KW NOISE RATTLE INFO PART VIBRATION PERFORMANCE WARM COLD HVAC #PI01139C 5/7 04 THE #49276 TENSIONER HAS A LONG HISTORY OF FIELD PROBLEMS OR CONCERNS. GM SHOULD HAVE RECALLED AND FIXED THIS PROBLEM, MINE IS DOING IT AND TICKS ME OFF. GM SHOULD GIVE ME A NEW AC PUMP, WITH SO MANY PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. LETS GET A RECALL GOING.