Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions
jetta9
Member Posts: 1
in Volkswagen
i have a 1990 mk2 jetta 1.8 liter, i was wondering if i could swap a 1997 mk3 jetta 2.0 liter engine and what is involved in doing it?
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Theres a ton of Mk2 engine upgrades that i would consider before a 2.0 transplant. Its not a fast engine and to supercharger or turbo it its at least 2500$$$ .. for a good staged system. Spend your hard earned dough wiser.
ManilaRob
If this one broke at 55K miles, somthing is VERY wrong. I am wondering if this timing belt is not the original (ie... somthing was assembled incorectly during a previous maintenance service. It is very easy to incorectly install the tensionor...which can snap the belt prematurly)
As mentioned above, valve damage can occour on most automobile engines when the timing-belt breaks. (Not a VW-only thing) A broken timing belt means that the head should be pulled from the engine so the valves/pistons can be inspected for collision. That is why it is vitally important to replace the TB at the recommended intervals.
QUESTION: Was this TDI engine only run with the proper synthetic oil? Running dyno-oil is known to destroy the camshaft.
I'd have thought most interference engines would use a timing chain. Relying on a belt, when you have an interference engine, seems like a bad design.
,had towed to local shop,so vw for sure does not have clearance between valve and piston , some motors I beleive Honda will often clear..thanks for reply
Has anyone else had this problem? I'm told this is being caused by a hydraulic clutch and drive by wire accelerator.
I've been driving manual cars for 20 years without any trouble. Is this something that drivers adapt to eventually? Or am I likely to be rear-ended a few times before VW makes a change?
I am not sure where you heard this is caused by "a hydraulic clutch and drive by wire accelerator." ... VW has been using this for over 10 years now. (And so have many other automakers)
Irreguardless of the cause... it is up to the DEALERSHIP to fix it... If you mention the fact this is a SAFETY issue, they may be more inclined to deal with it promptly.
Revving up the engine should not normally affect the propeller on the waterpump... but could cause it to break free if it was defective and about to fail anyway.
One way to check for this is to answer the following question;
Do you have normal heat output coming from the heatercore inside the cabin?
You did not say how many miles you have on your 2000 Jetta. Dont forget that the waterpump is part of the TIMING BELT assembly. Has your Timing Belt ever been replaced? (per VW maintenace schedule) The reason I ask it because some people try to save a few dollars by NOT replacing the waterpump when the Timing Belt is replaced.... this is a very bad idea because most waterpumps will NOT last until the next Timing Belt replacement. (The cost to replace waterpump is same labor as Timing Belt replacment)
Let us know what the dealership tells you about your overheating problem.
If you plan on using a private mechanic to replace the timing belt/waterpump, you can order a complete timing belt replacement kit online. One place that I've used is Adirondack Auto Brokers (www.germanautoparts.com), which sells the kit for your 2000 Jetta (which includes the improved aftermarket water pump with a metal impeller (propeller) - the factory waterpump has a plastic impeller).
bpeebles is correct about the water pump - the factory water pump will not last beyond a timing belt replacement. I had the waterpump replaced on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T @ 73,000 miles, and at that mileage interval the factory water pump looked like it was on it's last legs. Replacing a $60 waterpump at every timing belt change is cheap insurance, IMHO...
if this is a timing chain in 04 VR6, do we need to change it and at what mileage, or just change the water pump?
You got 125,000 miles of reliable transportation. Sure there were a few glitches... but ALL automobiles have their share of niggles. Most of the items you mention were COVERED by VW. (including the rear brakes at 30,000)
I am not sure what the heck you expect over 125,000 miles...but by your own account - you made out very well. (and had "fun" the whole way)
With any luck, your mechanic has mis-diagnosed and you may have another 50,000 miles of "fun".
Can you also describe what you mean by the term "major engine problems"?
For example... I consider a warped head a "Major engine problem" .... my only Honda Civic suffered a warped head TWICE. I will never own another Honda.... because I like VWs soooo much more than the Booring Honda ownership. (never was any "fun")
I didn't mind that much because of how the dealership responded and both were repaired within a few hours.
My lease ran out in December and was very tempted buy my 2003. Ended up going with a 2007 Jetta after doing all the math. I did not see anything else on the market that even caught my eye.
Try this---shift to neutral before you come to a stop and see if it stalls. If it doesn't ever stall in neutral but always stalls when you're in gear even with the clutch pedal down, then maybe you're right about the clutch.
You could have what we call a problem of CORRELATION (two things happening separately at once) not CAUSATION (two things happening that are directly related).
Are you CERTAIN you are using the proper weight oil? (5W30) The first number in the viscosity rating of an oil is the COLD rating. If you are running 10W30 oil, then your oil is too thick when it is cold.
Since this is an ENGINE forum... I will leave your quesiton about clicking noise from UNDER the car alone...
thanks for your help
p.s do you know what forum i can post the question bout the noise under my car?
thanks again
If that clicking noise under the car is something you hear after you've shut the engine OFF and you're just sitting there, that's normal...what we gearheads call "heat sink".
But if the clicking noise seems to get louder when you accelerate, or increases in frequency, it could be a small exhaust leak---and if it's really small, as the exhaust manifold or pipes heat up, they might seal the leak, thus explaining why it goes away or dminishes as you drive.
Just a thought. A muffler shop could isolate this in a minute but make sure they SHOW you where the leak is. Could be nothing more than a loose clamp.
About a week back, the check engine light came on making me miss a heartbeat. This stayed on for 2-3 days.
After 2-3 days, it went away.
The only thing I did different in the interim was to fill premium gas in the car - not that it should make any difference.
The other point might be just psychological - but ever since this event, I feel that the check engine light stays on a second longer than the other dash lights when I start the car.
Any ideas on what could be the reason behind this erratic behavior.
If you want to know which fault tripped the CEL, you would need to read the code while the CEL is on.
BTW: The definition of a "trip" is a very specefic set of circumstances which must commence in a certan order. (Ie... Cold start, run to full temparture, stay there for specified time)
So it is a good thing I did not immediately run off to the dealership and waited a couple of days.
Probably save a couple of hundred dollars.
It has been some time since the light came on.
Do you think it warrants a check up - or all's OK.
I would suggest that you not be concerned unless the CEL comes back on... then consider going to Autozone (or other parts place) that can "pull" the code for you free of charge.
Then, come back here to Edmunds and tell us what the code is. We may be able to direct you from there.
I bought this car used in '02 and have had many issues with it, but nothing like this. It IS extremely cold out, colder than it's been in a long time (single digits), and I didn't let the car warm up very much (although I usually don't and it performs just fine).
Could this be a cold issue or does it sound like an engine thing? Thanks for any help...
....but I assume you do not have the TDI engine. If you have a gasoline engine, then there should be enough wasted heat to keep the temp at 190.
Given that this is not normal for your car, I would suggest that you check the following in this order;
1) Coolant level
2) Thermostat
3) Waterpump
I am new to this forum and I hope thatg I can get some help on how to deal with a MIL with my VW 2002 Jetta 55K miles.
The Check engine light came on and I noticed that the car engine is spinning more than what it supposed when I am driving ( as if I am going up a hill ).
I invested $80 to get the OBD interface and SW and I could not get the fault code because the SW is telling no Fault codes are found. I have the SW and interface connected correctly because it is telling me that I need to replacethe front brakes ( light came on for the brake on the same week). I used the OBD tool while the engine running and I am seeing that the engine is running %10 faster than what it supposed when idle.
Before I went and spent the $80 for the tool, I did change the air filter but that did not help
The car had never had the plugs or the cap changed. Only had the brakes and regular oil change.
I am not sure how much the dealer would charge ( asking $100 / hour for diag ) but I am not getting any fault with the tool & OBD SW.
I thought about the quality of the gas that I put in last time, but the light came on after 3/4 of the tank was gone.
I tried filling up the gas tank with premium after that but to no help.
I am planning to change the plugs over the weekend since it seems that it is overdue already...
you guys have any idea what could be the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.....
If you tell us what the code is, we may be able to help you.
We would also need to know WHICH ENGINE you have. (Jettas had 4 engine choices in 2002)