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Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions

jetta9jetta9 Member Posts: 1
i have a 1990 mk2 jetta 1.8 liter, i was wondering if i could swap a 1997 mk3 jetta 2.0 liter engine and what is involved in doing it?
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Comments

  • defn1eardefn1ear Member Posts: 5
    You can but WHY WOULD U? IS THE 2.0 FREE? I would search for a 20 valve 1.8 turbo, or a vr6 of some sort. I would even consider turbo/super charging the 1.8 u already have. It would be about the same cost by the time u factor in labor. And you need the 2.0 tranny, ecu, the wiring harness. You will also probably need to upgrade your radiator so buy it from the transplant 2.0 car. Try to buy it all together, the ecu, raddy, engine, tranny..

    Theres a ton of Mk2 engine upgrades that i would consider before a 2.0 transplant. Its not a fast engine and to supercharger or turbo it its at least 2500$$$ .. for a good staged system. Spend your hard earned dough wiser.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
  • robkigalirobkigali Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Jetta Jazz and just recently the power has just died. I attempted to drive up a reasonably steep hill and it couldn't make it in 2nd, downshifted and it died in first....you could push the gas pedal to the floor and nothing. It continued to drive, but again, most times, you can sink the gas pedal and there is no/little pick-up. It also bucks when it is running at low RPMs. I live in Manila, Philippines and it will cost me $1500.00 to hook it up to the computer diagnostic at the dealer. Trying to avoid this. Any ideas of what may be happening here? Any information will be helpful and appreciated.

    ManilaRob
  • jonhy_79jonhy_79 Member Posts: 1
    tnx for your answers
  • ddktechddktech Member Posts: 1
    turbo restrictor plate holes plugging up. Purpose of plate and can it be modified do to carbon buildup or removed?
  • saoiresaoire Member Posts: 1
    why is my 2001 volkswagen's engine sooo loud? only 64,000 miles on it. no pinging or knocking noise just loud.
  • thalthal Member Posts: 3
    Could valve damage result from a broken timing belt on my 2003 tdi - broke on start up , any manufacture recourse ,only 55000 miles
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    You are out of warranty. Could bargin with dealer for some sort of discount since belt is not supposed to be changed until 80K service.
  • thalthal Member Posts: 3
    Possible valve damage could accure from timing belt breakage ???????
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Indeed. Cam shaft is driven by timing belt. Cam shaft determines when valves open. If not closed in time they will be damaged by the rising piston.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 2003 TDI has a 100,000 mile replacement belt... not the 80,000 belt of the older TDIs.

    If this one broke at 55K miles, somthing is VERY wrong. I am wondering if this timing belt is not the original (ie... somthing was assembled incorectly during a previous maintenance service. It is very easy to incorectly install the tensionor...which can snap the belt prematurly)

    As mentioned above, valve damage can occour on most automobile engines when the timing-belt breaks. (Not a VW-only thing) A broken timing belt means that the head should be pulled from the engine so the valves/pistons can be inspected for collision. That is why it is vitally important to replace the TB at the recommended intervals.

    QUESTION: Was this TDI engine only run with the proper synthetic oil? Running dyno-oil is known to destroy the camshaft.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    valve damage can occour on most automobile engines when the timing-belt breaks.

    I'd have thought most interference engines would use a timing chain. Relying on a belt, when you have an interference engine, seems like a bad design.
  • thalthal Member Posts: 3
    I am assuming belt is broken at this time,heard pop then motor cranked much to fast ,didn't start,did not pull cover
    ,had towed to local shop,so vw for sure does not have clearance between valve and piston , some motors I beleive Honda will often clear..thanks for reply
  • hotlottohotlotto Member Posts: 5
    I started driving a 2007 Jetta (manual transmission) last week. The engine is stalling as I slow down to make a turn, especially when making a left turn on a busy street, or, when inching along in gawker traffic at 5-10 mph with cars merging ahead. These are just the moments when drivers need precision timing.

    Has anyone else had this problem? I'm told this is being caused by a hydraulic clutch and drive by wire accelerator.

    I've been driving manual cars for 20 years without any trouble. Is this something that drivers adapt to eventually? Or am I likely to be rear-ended a few times before VW makes a change?
  • waiwai Member Posts: 327
    What gear are you in before stalling?
  • hotlottohotlotto Member Posts: 5
    2nd gear. In my other cars, when slowing down for a curve, I'd go from 3rd to 2nd, let up on the gas a little, then when I wanted to pick up speed again, add a little gas then go back to 3rd. It's when I go back to accelerate again that the car dies.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 327
    Your do everything right. My 04 Jetta 6 speed manual will not stall in this case. Better fix it by dealer immediately under the warranty because its dangereous when the car stall and you cannot brake and steer easily.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your Jetta has a problem that needs to be fixed.

    I am not sure where you heard this is caused by "a hydraulic clutch and drive by wire accelerator." ... VW has been using this for over 10 years now. (And so have many other automakers)

    Irreguardless of the cause... it is up to the DEALERSHIP to fix it... If you mention the fact this is a SAFETY issue, they may be more inclined to deal with it promptly.
  • hotlottohotlotto Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, everyone! I'm taking it back in today. Will keep you posted if you like.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Yes indeedy, do let us know what happens. Good luck!
  • gwotetgwotet Member Posts: 1
    This may seem like a stupid question, but I am clueless when it comes to cars. I own a 2000 VW Jetta... Today, I over-revved to 7000 rpms, and since then my temperature gauge has shot way up (and the light comes on now) when I drive anywhere. I plan on getting it looked at as soon as possible, but I was wondering if anyone could give any explanation on what is happening. If it is something extremely serious, how do I get it to the dealership/ shop without my car freaking out even more?! Thank you for any help you can offer!
  • waiwai Member Posts: 327
    Revv your engine to 7000 rpm once in a while will not overheat the engine. I always run to 7000 rpm and my engine is OK. Check your coolant reserve tank to see if the coolant level is up to the full mark, if not buy a bottle of coolant from the VW dealership and fill up to the full mark and drive your car to the dealership for repair without revv over 2500rpm.
  • laurenhlaurenh Member Posts: 1
    I have a strong gas smell when I start up (1996 Jetta) and lowered milage. I can't figure out where it's coming from (I'm no mechanic) but would like to try to figure this out without having to take it in to someone. Any suggestions?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The propeller on the waterpump on these engines are known to come free from the shaft. If this happens, then the antifreeze does not flow thru the engine/radiator as it should.

    Revving up the engine should not normally affect the propeller on the waterpump... but could cause it to break free if it was defective and about to fail anyway.

    One way to check for this is to answer the following question;
    Do you have normal heat output coming from the heatercore inside the cabin?

    You did not say how many miles you have on your 2000 Jetta. Dont forget that the waterpump is part of the TIMING BELT assembly. Has your Timing Belt ever been replaced? (per VW maintenace schedule) The reason I ask it because some people try to save a few dollars by NOT replacing the waterpump when the Timing Belt is replaced.... this is a very bad idea because most waterpumps will NOT last until the next Timing Belt replacement. (The cost to replace waterpump is same labor as Timing Belt replacment)

    Let us know what the dealership tells you about your overheating problem.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If I may add to what bpeebles suggested:

    If you plan on using a private mechanic to replace the timing belt/waterpump, you can order a complete timing belt replacement kit online. One place that I've used is Adirondack Auto Brokers (www.germanautoparts.com), which sells the kit for your 2000 Jetta (which includes the improved aftermarket water pump with a metal impeller (propeller) - the factory waterpump has a plastic impeller).

    bpeebles is correct about the water pump - the factory water pump will not last beyond a timing belt replacement. I had the waterpump replaced on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T @ 73,000 miles, and at that mileage interval the factory water pump looked like it was on it's last legs. Replacing a $60 waterpump at every timing belt change is cheap insurance, IMHO...
  • waiwai Member Posts: 327
    Hi, 600kgolfgt,

    if this is a timing chain in 04 VR6, do we need to change it and at what mileage, or just change the water pump?
  • mkdad2mkdad2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 VR6 Jetta with 125,000 miles. Purchased it new in 2000. Yesterday the engine coolant alarm came on... stopped immeidately. All indications were a water pump... now my mechnanic is telling me major engine problems. Has anyone else had similar problems. This car has been fun to drive but I will never own another VW. List of issues... window regulators, brake light switch, emissions light, AC Compressor, sunroof popping, rear brakes at 30,000 miles just to name a few and now this.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am curious - Why will you "never own another VW"?

    You got 125,000 miles of reliable transportation. Sure there were a few glitches... but ALL automobiles have their share of niggles. Most of the items you mention were COVERED by VW. (including the rear brakes at 30,000)
    I am not sure what the heck you expect over 125,000 miles...but by your own account - you made out very well. (and had "fun" the whole way)

    With any luck, your mechanic has mis-diagnosed and you may have another 50,000 miles of "fun".

    Can you also describe what you mean by the term "major engine problems"?

    For example... I consider a warped head a "Major engine problem" .... my only Honda Civic suffered a warped head TWICE. I will never own another Honda.... because I like VWs soooo much more than the Booring Honda ownership. (never was any "fun")
  • hotlottohotlotto Member Posts: 5
    I had a 2003 Jetta for three years. I had two incidents requiring urgent attention: a brake light issue and an electical coil issue.

    I didn't mind that much because of how the dealership responded and both were repaired within a few hours.

    My lease ran out in December and was very tempted buy my 2003. Ended up going with a 2007 Jetta after doing all the math. I did not see anything else on the market that even caught my eye.
  • mkdad2mkdad2 Member Posts: 2
    Here is why I will never own another VW. The first years of owning this car windows fell down in the doors at least 6 times (of which VW did not pick up the cost). Brake switch drained the battery multiple times prior to determining what was causing it (again not warranty covered, but later a recall... but I did not get any refund). Early brake failure was not covered under warranty. Emissions light continously comes on... multilpe o2 sensors replaced. Instrument cluster had to be replaced (not under warranty). Warranty ended at 24,000 miles which when I first purchased the car was only after about 16 months. I could live with what I would call minor things above because I enjoyed the driving experience, but to have a engine head cracked at 125K and the engine was turned off within seconds of the coolant light coming on! I have owned multiple vechiles in my 40 plus years of purchasing vechiles... never have I had so many issues with so few miles. The post was just to see if other VR6 Engines had similar experiences.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    It might just be a bad temperature sensor. The the car actually overheat and boil over? The Engine coolant temperature sensors on these cars have a fairly high failure rate. My 04 Jetta failed at 40K miles, my daughter's 01 Jetta failed at 65K miles. The good news is that they don't cost much and are quite simple to replace. Do you know why your mechanic is telling you that you have major engine problems? The temperture sensors on these cars are a duel element sensor, one element feeds the temp gauge on the dash, the other elemant feeds the engine computer. Did you change the water pump when you changed the timing belt? Could just be a bad thermostat too.
  • ladonaladona Member Posts: 3
    I just had a new clutch put in my 97 jetta and now when I come to a stop the engine cuts off, is the clutch not adjusted right???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    If the clutch was not releasing fully as you slowed down and pressed down on the clutch pedal, causing a stall because you are still in gear), you'd find it very difficult to select first gear and get going again.

    Try this---shift to neutral before you come to a stop and see if it stalls. If it doesn't ever stall in neutral but always stalls when you're in gear even with the clutch pedal down, then maybe you're right about the clutch.

    You could have what we call a problem of CORRELATION (two things happening separately at once) not CAUSATION (two things happening that are directly related).
  • ladonaladona Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info, I took it to another mechanic and he pin pointed the clutch. Again thanks.
  • calivdubcalivdub Member Posts: 2
    :sick: I have a 2004 VW Jetta and recently the MIL and ESP lights have come on and there is this very loud annoying buzzing sound coming from the engine. And to top it off it has been hard to start and I have to push on the gas to keep it from stalling out. I have searched high and low to figure this out. Can you please help?!!! Thanks
  • joker55joker55 Member Posts: 49
    My 1999 Jetta is also somewhat loud, but i often hear a "clicking" noise from the engine,noticable when i start it up in cold weather but quiets down a bit when its warm up, my mechanic tells me that it is normal volkswagen noise, but i also hear a clicking noise from under the car, sounds like its coming from the area of the c.converter...any ideas anyone???
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Yes, the "clicking" sound you hear is the hydrolic tappets... it is normal to hear them ticking when the oil is cold and harder to pump.

    Are you CERTAIN you are using the proper weight oil? (5W30) The first number in the viscosity rating of an oil is the COLD rating. If you are running 10W30 oil, then your oil is too thick when it is cold.

    Since this is an ENGINE forum... I will leave your quesiton about clicking noise from UNDER the car alone...
  • jfruitsjfruits Member Posts: 1
    Hey I just bought a Jetta and don't know much about it. I bought an HKS Blow-off Valve and they didn't include directions of how to put it on. Is there anyone who could maybe talk me through this? Thanks let me know
  • joker55joker55 Member Posts: 49
    ummm not sure what grade i have in there right now, i just went for an oil change and my mechanic put it in, but the clicking noise is still present even after the engine has had time to warm up...just not as loud.....that is normal?

    thanks for your help

    p.s do you know what forum i can post the question bout the noise under my car?

    thanks again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Have you checked for an exhaust leak?

    If that clicking noise under the car is something you hear after you've shut the engine OFF and you're just sitting there, that's normal...what we gearheads call "heat sink".

    But if the clicking noise seems to get louder when you accelerate, or increases in frequency, it could be a small exhaust leak---and if it's really small, as the exhaust manifold or pipes heat up, they might seal the leak, thus explaining why it goes away or dminishes as you drive.

    Just a thought. A muffler shop could isolate this in a minute but make sure they SHOW you where the leak is. Could be nothing more than a loose clamp.
  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 Jetta GLS (2.0 Engine + 4 speed auto) with about 67,000 miles on the clock.
    About a week back, the check engine light came on making me miss a heartbeat. This stayed on for 2-3 days.
    After 2-3 days, it went away.
    The only thing I did different in the interim was to fill premium gas in the car - not that it should make any difference.
    The other point might be just psychological - but ever since this event, I feel that the check engine light stays on a second longer than the other dash lights when I start the car.

    Any ideas on what could be the reason behind this erratic behavior.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    This is NOT erratic behaviour on the part of the CEL. (Check Engine Light) There are many types of intermittent faults which could turn the light on... then, after several "trips" wheras the fault is not detected, then the CEL will reset itself.

    If you want to know which fault tripped the CEL, you would need to read the code while the CEL is on.

    BTW: The definition of a "trip" is a very specefic set of circumstances which must commence in a certan order. (Ie... Cold start, run to full temparture, stay there for specified time)
  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    This happened about mid-week and I had scheduled a dealership visit on Saturday.
    So it is a good thing I did not immediately run off to the dealership and waited a couple of days.
    Probably save a couple of hundred dollars.

    It has been some time since the light came on.
    Do you think it warrants a check up - or all's OK.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Any kind of "checkup" while the CEL is off may not find any issues since they have "self reset" and perhaps been erased from the onboard computer.

    I would suggest that you not be concerned unless the CEL comes back on... then consider going to Autozone (or other parts place) that can "pull" the code for you free of charge.

    Then, come back here to Edmunds and tell us what the code is. We may be able to direct you from there.
  • mivirtue69mivirtue69 Member Posts: 2
    I live in nj, and right now it is cold. I was driving tonight and noticed that the heat on the inside of my car wasn't as warm as usual, then noticed my temperature gauge was barely over a 1/4 of the way up. (it usually stays in the middle). As i was driving, sometimes while pressed on the gas, the gauge would rise, and when i was on flatter surfaces or downhill surfaces and the gas was not needed as much, the gauge would go down. what is going on????
  • landghotilandghoti Member Posts: 1
    This morning after I pulled out of my driveway, my '99 Jetta acted like it might stall after I accelerated and shifted into 2nd gear. I had to stop at the top of the street (stop sign), then started the whole routine over again. But this time, after I shifted into 2nd, it did a bit of lurching, then surged forward like it had suddenly gotten new life and would be OK. I tried shifting into 3rd to see what would happen, and then nearly killed it when I tried to accelerate. So I turned around and came home, but barely made it up the street to get back into the driveway. The lurching was much worse by this time.

    I bought this car used in '02 and have had many issues with it, but nothing like this. It IS extremely cold out, colder than it's been in a long time (single digits), and I didn't let the car warm up very much (although I usually don't and it performs just fine).

    Could this be a cold issue or does it sound like an engine thing? Thanks for any help...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your Jetta is acting like a TDI. The trade-off for 56MPG is very little heat in the winter.

    ....but I assume you do not have the TDI engine. If you have a gasoline engine, then there should be enough wasted heat to keep the temp at 190.

    Given that this is not normal for your car, I would suggest that you check the following in this order;
    1) Coolant level
    2) Thermostat
    3) Waterpump
  • hichamhicham Member Posts: 1
    :( Hello,
    I am new to this forum and I hope thatg I can get some help on how to deal with a MIL with my VW 2002 Jetta 55K miles.

    The Check engine light came on and I noticed that the car engine is spinning more than what it supposed when I am driving ( as if I am going up a hill ).
    I invested $80 to get the OBD interface and SW and I could not get the fault code because the SW is telling no Fault codes are found. I have the SW and interface connected correctly because it is telling me that I need to replacethe front brakes ( light came on for the brake on the same week). I used the OBD tool while the engine running and I am seeing that the engine is running %10 faster than what it supposed when idle.
    Before I went and spent the $80 for the tool, I did change the air filter but that did not help
    The car had never had the plugs or the cap changed. Only had the brakes and regular oil change.
    I am not sure how much the dealer would charge ( asking $100 / hour for diag ) but I am not getting any fault with the tool & OBD SW.

    I thought about the quality of the gas that I put in last time, but the light came on after 3/4 of the tank was gone.
    I tried filling up the gas tank with premium after that but to no help.
    I am planning to change the plugs over the weekend since it seems that it is overdue already...
    you guys have any idea what could be the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Many autoparts stores (like Autozone) will "pull the codes" for you free of charge.

    If you tell us what the code is, we may be able to help you.

    We would also need to know WHICH ENGINE you have. (Jettas had 4 engine choices in 2002)
  • rcnsgt1rcnsgt1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Jetta VR6 with 91,000 miles on it. I am getting ready to trade it in but need to check out why the CEL is on. It's been on and off for 10,000 miles but runs fine. What are the tools I see you talking about here the "OBD SW etc" are they hand held? Can they reset my CEL if there is no major problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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