Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions

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Comments

  • hotlottohotlotto Member Posts: 5
    It was my salesperson who told me it was the drive-by-wiring that was causing the stalling.

    Update: My salesperson and I drove the car together. We couldn't get it to stall during the test. (Of course) But neither were we really able to duplicate the traffic conditions in which the car tends to stall.
    My theory: I am 5'1 and under 110 lbs. (A smaller than average person.) I don't think my foot weighs enough to naturally engage the accelerator. Usually when I put my foot on an accelerator, the accelerator engages due to the weight of my foot alone. Not in this car. In this car I have to apply pressure at all times. This means that instead of easing up on the accelerator when switching from 3rd gear to 2nd and back again, I have to keep applying pressure in order to keep the engine stable. It is counter intuitive, uncomfortable and yes, my ankle gets tired.

    I ran my theory by my salesperson but he seems to have abandoned me. Thanks VW!
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    This is the 2nd time my Jetta broke down on me while I was driving it. Both happend after one day of heavy raining. I suspect it had to do with water/moisture.

    The "engine oil presure" warning sign came up first and beeped. Didn't pay attention Then the engine just stalled.
    I was able to start it a few time but the idling is NOT stable and the engine died on itself again and again.

    I pulled over and started it again but it stopped on itself after 30 seconds. A burning/strong smell coming out of the hood(?). Some liquid on the floor under the engine but it is NOT motor oil (water?).

    Tried to start it again but no cranking sound. Just a wierd/strange sound under the hood when I turned the ignition. Did I break anything major?

    What do you think the problem is? Coil (I heard a wierd noise coming from the coil under the hood)? Electrical wires?

    I was planning to sell the car but now I cannot start it. What're my options? Repair it and sell it? Trade-in when buying my next car? It has 118K and worth $2500-2700 if it's running.

    BTW, the "check engine" has been on for half a year. Had it reset but it came back on again.

    Thanks/Richard
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The problem you describe is common with ignition parts that get wet (with water). This can often be fixed with new sparkplug wires.

    Some people use a "windex" bottle filled with water to spritz things under the hood while engine is idling. This often can pinpoint the problem.

    As for your CEL being on for half year... you should consider having thet looked at and corrected. (if you are NOT selling the car)
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Thanks for your reply. But I couldn't start the engine at all. It just made a wierd sound under the hood.

    The sound is brief. It sounds like the engine was trying to start but it's just one extended cranking sound (the sound came from where the coil is under the hood - just in the back the dashboard).

    I dared not keeping turning the key. Was the coil burnt? Someone else on VWvortex forum suggested that I might have seized the engine and the car is NOT worth repairing.

    On the other hand, another gentleman said there might be a crack on the coil and it should be replaced.

    I don't really want to spend a lot of money repairing the car because I plan to sell it soon before the next inspection (mid-April).

    Shall I have a mechanic to take a loot first and diagnoise the problem before I have my Jetta towed to their shop?

    What's the best approach for me at this point? The engine cannot be started. The car is parked in the parking lot behind my apt. Thanks.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    My daughter started having some intermitent rough idle and occasional stalling problems on rainy or even just humid days (she has a 2001 Jetta with the 2.o ltr engine). I figured it needed wires so I put a new set of spark plug wires on. It continued to do it after the new wires so I replaced the coil pack. That corrected the problem. The coil pack on these are pretty easy to remove/replace; I think that they sell a clear insulating spray that might work if you don't want to spend the $$ on a new coil pack. The water in a spray bottle is a good diagnostic tool for finding problems like that.
  • ksthiebaudksthiebaud Member Posts: 7
    I just had the same thing happen on my VR6 w/125,000 miles. I took the car in for an oil change and to have them look at why my check coolant light was on. The dealer told me that the cost of all repairs would be $1700. This covered a new water pump, coil pack, internal tie rods and alignment (oh yeah, and the cost of diagnostics). I took the car to an independent mechanic who told me that the water pump wasn't perfect but was not leaking and there was no need to replace it. I had him replace the coil pack for much less than the dealer quoted, only to find out afterward that the catalytic converter was bad. I also have to have the tie rods replaced before inspection. Love the car, but I don't know if I will ever own another VW either.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am just curious about why you say you may never own another VW. I sincirly hope that you are not suggesting that after 125,000 miles - it is unexpected that some repairs are needed.

    There may not be a vehicle on the planet that can go 120,000 miles without some kind of repairs. (I had a Honda Civic that needed the HEAD GASKET replaced 2 times before 100,000 miles... now that is a serious failure.)

    For me, It really comes down to how much I am spending monthly to keep a vehicle on the road. If the repairs are costing more than payments on a new car, then it is time to consider moving on.

    Personally, I would have FIXED the coil-pack or replaced it myself. It is a simple 5 minute task.
  • ksthiebaudksthiebaud Member Posts: 7
    I did fix the coil pack. It cost me over $500. Just $1000 more for tie rods and a catalytic converter and it might just pass inspection! Make no mistake, I have invested in expected repairs regularly (rotors, brakes, belts....) BTW, save the condescending tone that we should all be able to rip parts off of the engine and replace them in 5 minutes. It makes it sound like you work for VW. Hmmm...maybe you do.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Ummm - did you even bother to read my bio? I have been working on mechanical things since I was old enough to hold a screwdriver.

    I do not work for VW ... but have owned many vehicles over the years and have concluded that VW is one of the best available. NONE of the Asian carmakers have 12-year/ unlimited milage corrosion warantee. (what use is a car the rusts into oblivian before it wears out?)

    Many repair shops charge WAYYY too much for mundane tasks and most folks that visit Edmunds APPRECEATE my assistance in not having to pay for trivial things they can do themselves.

    YES - it is pretty easy to R&R a coilpack in about 5-10 minutes... if one knows which end of a screwdriver to hold. (perhaps easier than hanging a picture on the wall!)

    If you do not want advice, then why are you here? This is a forum for folks that WANT to be helped. Complainers need not apply. 8-)

    BTW: Any automobile with that many miles on it could be needing those kind of items repaired. You are lucky it is a VW... or you would have been looking for another car years ago. It seems that you paied too much for the repairs and are now trying to blame VW and me.

    It still perplexes me that you can "Love the car"... but in the same sentence suggest you may never own another one.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    We're going off in a wrong direction here. We have a new member and we're glad to welcome her.

    Replacing a coil-pack in five minutes might be a snap for some and might scare others to death. No big deal either way. We all have talents and skills in some areas but not in others.

    She seems to be saying that even though she loves the car but maybe won't own another because of the issues she has described. They sound like a lot to deal with and certainly not inexpensive. But 125,000 miles is a lot on the clock, no question.

    If both of you could lighten up a bit, maybe she will clarify what she's saying and how we can help. Then we can move on and get back to business here. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Pat -- you are, of course, correct and I apolagize if I seem harsh.

    I am more accustomed the literally 1000s of folks that have THANKED me over the years for providing assistance here in Edmunds.

    In this case, I explained how the requestor may be able to save some money. If somone does not have the skills to do the task, then the only other alternitive may be to have a TRUSTED mechanic do the work.

    Blaming the manufacturer of the vehicle because a mechanic charges too much is simply unfair to the folks that make the car. If the car has some kind of intrinsic design defect, we may entertan blaming the manufacturer. (Even under such conditions, we must consider the federal laws which mandate some goofy designs and finnicky problems... such as plugging intake manifolds due to cooled EGR.)

    Any vehicle with over 100,000 miles on it does not owe you ANYTHING... it has served it useful life and any more miles we get out if it is a bonus. Have we forgotten the days not long ago when a car was worn-out and ready for the scrap heap at 60,000 miles?

    As I said before, the costs of repair on a vehicle with more than 100,000 miles on the odemeter REALLY needs to be amortorized over the time the repair lasts (and any other failures that occour.)

    For example, if a car with 125,000 miles costs $1,700 to fix... but lasts another 2 years, that means it only cost $850 per year or about $71 per month... That is PRETTY CHEEP transportation in my book. Where can I buy another car with payments of $71 a month?

    And - more to the point... why would I even consider NOT BUYING ANOTHER car that provided me with such inexpensive transprotation?
  • misskalimisskali Member Posts: 1
    guys i need u'r help. I have a Golf 2000, and today it just went crazy. I was driving and out of nowhere it started shaking, and it starting stinking in the car. If anyone could give e an idea of what it might be, i would really appreciate it. thank's
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Can you tell us which engine you have and if you noticed any indicator lights on the dash?

    Also, did it go away or is it now always happening?
  • scoughlanscoughlan Member Posts: 3
    I am experiencing alot of lurching while idle. I notice the RPMs bounce between 800-1000 RPMs while the lurching occurs. The lurching stops when I place the car in neutral. I also notice a strong gas smell while idle. Any ideas where to start?
  • ilsailsa Member Posts: 1
    Just last week, Oil and Filter were changed on the car. Two days later when the car was accelerated, smoke started to come out of the back of the car. Can someone give me some idea why this is happening?

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    could be way over-filled. If it was done at a quick-lube place, it wouldn't be the first time.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There was a rash of bad ignitors on your 1.8T engine. Judging by your description, I would say that one of your 4 ignitors is failing. (If a sparkplug fails to ignite the fuel, the idlespeed would drop and you would smell raw gasoline out the exhaust pipe.)

    Ignitor: Individual ignition coil - one on each sparkplug.

    If you did not take your car in when you got the recall notice for the ignitors, you could try to get it covered now. (good luck)
  • imseriol21imseriol21 Member Posts: 1
    i need to know what short ram air intakes will work for my 98 jetta gls, and only short rams please =)

    such as, brands or exact models

    dont care how much it costs either
  • cougar6cougar6 Member Posts: 1
    hi i was wondering anyone knew if you could take a manifold from a 98 1.8L turbo jetta and put it on a 2.0L non turbo jetta. the reason i want to know is because i would like to make my 2.0L jetta turbo charged
  • jjordan2jjordan2 Member Posts: 5
    or is it just an engine with a VR6 cover? image
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 1.8T and the 2.0 are do completely different engines. The 1.8T is an AUDI engine and the 2.0 is the based on the ol' original Rabbit engine made in Pennslyvania.

    Even if you could add a turbocharger to the 2.0, the design of the engine (compression ratio) is too high to allow for much boost. Turbocharged engines are DESIGNED with a low compression-ratio to allow for more boost without self-destructing.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It sure looks like a VR6... I can count the sparkplug wires from here 8-) No other VW engine has 6 sparkplug wires.

    I guess somone could doctor up a VR6 engine cover to fit on a different engine... but why would anyone do that??

    To specifically answer your question... we cannot see what is under that cover so there is NO WAY to be certain.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    That is indeed a VR6 (I have a 1.8T). As a matter of fact, that engine is actually the 12V version sold with the early MkIVs (the 24v version has the individual coil packs on each cylinder as opposed to the single coil pack and spark plug wires on the 12v).
  • cordeidcordeid Member Posts: 2
    HI! My cooling fan has been running constantly for two approximately 2 years - I know - I tried to get it diagnosed but my mechanic wasn't able to come up with anything conclusive. No other problems - just the load noise of the fan running. Anyone experience something similar or have advice on correcting this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yep find a mechanic who knows what he's doing. This isn't rocket science here. There's a wiring diagram available for the fan/sensor system and ways to diagnose it step by step.
  • cordeidcordeid Member Posts: 2
    Is this wiring diagram available online? I have someone willing to diagnose but no diagram......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Don't know if it's online sorry...maybe someone else can jump in on this---but if you post the link to the diagram, I'll take a shot at it! :shades:
  • silver_lemonvwsilver_lemonvw Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2002 1.8T. i bought it used last yr, said it had a warrenty(actually already expired) but all of a sudden the car keeps overheating for no reason, that and yesterday the EPC light came on and the car lost all power. i waited and it started again, but last night it wouldn't start at all, or turn over. i tightened the battery cable but i think the screws might be stripped, i'm not sure what is going on and don't have thousands to pour into it...what should i do, any advice, ideas, or help is greatly appreciated. thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I wonder if you've been attacked by the SLUDGE monster---hope not...let's think positive....

    Oh, the ignition coils! These had a high failure rate and I THINK your car might still be covered under some extended warranty situation? Is that right or is that all over and done with according to VW?
  • dragom_dandragom_dan Member Posts: 5
    i bought yesterday a 2001 jetta vr6 85k miles
    i have a strange noise in engine (not to disturbing)
    an another one .. under the hood or under the car.. or on of the tires .. is making a rithmical noise .. when i hit the brakes or drive with 30 miles on hour , the car vibrates you can feel that on the brake pedal
  • dragom_dandragom_dan Member Posts: 5
    i bought yesterday a 2001 jetta vr6 85k miles
    i have a strange noise in engine (not to disturbing)
    an another one .. under the hood or under the car.. or on of the tires .. is making a rithmical noise .. when i hit the brakes or drive with 30 miles on hour , the car vibrates you can feel that on the brake pedal
    what shoul i do.. o was to the delers they gave me need to replace timing chains , another one told me that is not sure is that problem .
    what should i do..
    what is the correct price for change that stuff?
    and also hom much theu should charge for an elctrical fan ?
  • mnfshrmanmnfshrman Member Posts: 1
    After taking off from a stop sign I was coming up to speed and the engine just died. I've checked to make sure I'm getting fuel to the rack (getting good Fuel), and I've check to make sure I'm getting good spark at the plugs (Good Spark), and now I'm totally lost. In my eyes if I have fuel and good spark the car should start. The car turns over fine but will not fire. Any help would sure be appreciated.

    David
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    If indeed you are getting good spark and fuel, the only other explanations are that a)that you've lost all compression instantly, which points to a broken timing belt or b) your injectors are not firing. You might double check by using some starter fluid to see if indeed you are getting fuel through the injectors...maybe your injectors are not getting a signal, which means you'd have fuel in the rack but no further. You can also check injectors by buying a noid light which isn't that expensive.
  • only1heatonly1heat Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I OWN A 2003 2.0 JETTA GL AND I WAS WONDERING IF THE SPEED GOVERNOR WAS ONE OF THOSE SENSOR TYPES OR ONE OF THE ECU CHIPS. IF ANYONE KNOWS PLEASE REPLY THAT WOULD GREATLY ASSIST ME. :D
  • silver_lemonvwsilver_lemonvw Member Posts: 5
    yeah, no extended warrenty either. i took it to autozone and the did a diagnostic on it. they said it was te crankshaft sensor was running at a different speed causing all the problems, but it could be the coils, where would i get either of those parts for not very expensive? thanks for your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    This sure sounds like your problem doesn't it?

    http://www.lemonlaw.com/volkswagen-problems.html

    So did you check with the VW dealer?
  • silver_lemonvwsilver_lemonvw Member Posts: 5
    yea the dealership wont do anything and they arent available until late next week. both of the fans arent working and so we dont know if it is the cooling fan thermo switch or it might be the engine(hope not). but that is possibly the problem that is causing the overheating, but i'm not sure about the electrical issues, like when the car just dies while i drive it, and then starts again(3-4 times in a row). that does sound like it may be the problem, how do i check to know, just take it in i guess?
    thanks again for all your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You'll need a computer that actually reads (interprets rather than merely scans) the codes and someone to do a "diagnostic tree" and figure out what's what. The computer doesn't always tell you what's wrong, only the SYSTEM that's affected.
  • ladonaladona Member Posts: 3
    My son said that his 1998 jetta stated this morning then cut off on him, he tried again and got it started. Went to work, got off the jetta started fine, then about 25 minutes later he calls and says that his car shook and then cut off then would not start back up. What could this be.

    Thanks
    LaDona
  • scoughlanscoughlan Member Posts: 3
    :sick: I need helpful advice! I am a single mother with a non-existent budget who knows nothing about cars! Cliffs notes version of what happened...Engine pressure light came on Thursday. Had oil changed and light went off. Light came on again yesterday while driving home on the freeway. Attempted to drive 10 miles to next exit and car shut down. Dealership attributes the issue due to faulty oil pump with possible clogging due to use of non-synthetic oil. Worst case scenario is the engine has seized. Dealership is tearing down engine to determine damage. Quoted $500 for tear down. Dealership is quoting $5K-$8K worst case to rebuild the engine. Has anyone had any success with refurbished engine parts? Is this even an option?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Arghh! The dreaded 1.8T Sludge Monster has struck again. Really sorry this happened to you.

    This might help fill you in on the problem:

    http://www.signonsandiego.com/uniontrib/20040904/news_lz1d4sludge.html
  • scoughlanscoughlan Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much your help and the article! Very informative and of course hindsight is 20/20. Would have been nice to know this information beforehand. I am sure that I will have more questions tomorrow after I hear back from the dealership.

    Thank the stars for people like you!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well good luck--you might also consider a low mileage used engine as an alternative.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you had been a REGISTERD (With VW) owner, you would have gotten the memo about using synthetic oil.

    It is unfortunate that the salesman do not tell prospective buyers that a TURBOCHARGED engine needs to be fed hi-test fuel and synthetic oil.... Thats the entry cost of having a turbocharged engine!

    If anyone else reading this owns ANY car and is not REGISTERD with the manufacturer... now is a GREAT time to fill out the postcard in the back of the owners-manual and send it in.

    Or, you can visit the Federal NHTSA website and look up your car.
  • dcurtis3dcurtis3 Member Posts: 1
    i recently slid my 01 jetta into a curb breaking both passenger side tires but neither axels. when brought to the mechanic, he told me it was totaled due to the frame underneath being broken. the car is in excellent condition other than this incident and i was wondering the best way to get some money out of it. car has 60k miles, heatded seats, power everything, sunroof, 6 cd changer, etc. any advice?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Do you have collision coverage on your insurance? If the insurance company totals it, it becomes their car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    If you slid into a curb that would be covered by collision insurance. If you don't have collision insurance, you could probably fix the car....these cars don't really have "frames" unless he means the sub-frame that carries the engine/transaxle, etc, and those are usually pieces you can replace and align.

    You need to go to an expert body shop, not a mechanic, before you write the car off.

    Go to Edmunds.com, click on "used cars", then on "appraise" and see what your car is actually worth--if you can fix it for 1/2 that value, it might be worth doing, if the car has otherwise been good and you like it.

    Visiting Host
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 997
    I read your posts about your wife's VW which is capable of achieving 56 MPG.
    Tell me though, during the entire year of 2006, what was that car's average MPG? (calculated by dividing total 2006 miles by total 2006 gallons burned)
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 997
    (...before someone else brings it up, don't say ONE MPG)
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I read your posts about your wife's VW which is capable of achieving 56 MPG.

    If her car is a diesel and the driving consists of mostly highway driving, then it is quite possible...
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