Hyundai Azera Front End Problems

jaymagic

My 07 Ltd (purchased 11/06) now has about 23,000 miles and frankly, I have had ZERO defects/problems. I do not have the clunk, and the ride and handling are just what I expected and paid for. However, since mine technically does fall under the TSB, I am thinking about taking it in at about 30,000 and seeing if I can wrangle a new set of shocks.

I plan on keeping my Azzy for well over 100,000 miles and will at some point have to replace the shocks. So, why not get a free replacement at 30,000 and put off or eliminate the replacement cost?

floridabob1

RE:883
The dealership is not obligated to replace the struts if nothing is wrong with your current ones.
I would not take a chance in changing parts that are designed to last for a long period of time, and are operating properly.

jaymagic

True, but you never know when that "clunk" may suddenly appear to my sensitive ears.

floridabob1

RE:885
I believe that the TSB remains in effect should your Azera develop the problem at a later date.

hjc1

Just checked the Hyundai service sight to look at the spec's for the 2007 & 2008
front and rear shocks. They are the same spec's
I wonder what was done to improve the handling ????

floridabob1

RE:887
Did they show the same part numbers for struts used in 07 and 08?
Initial Hyundai information indicated "new" and improved suspension and steering systems.
Did they tell a fib?

donrw

hic1
Interesting find.I did not realize that info is on the site. This really adds confusion to the shock issue, perhaps site info is in error.You do not change the part no. unless you change the part....040 and 041.

note info in post no 870
Replying to: scbob (Dec 24, 2007 11:56 am)

Following up on my buying experience and strut issue: I bought 07 azera and got great price ( about $4000) off MRSP plus 0% interest. I spoke with service manager and he was very aware of TSB on suspension but stated he only had a few customers requesting new struts per TSB. I asked about strut part numbers and he stated:9/1/05-12/26/05-54611 3L040
12/26/05-10/20/07-54611 3L041
10/20/07-now -54611 3L641
So far I am very please with car and especially value. Hopefully reliability will be good. Will watch for suspension problems. Happy New Year.

This seems to indicate that 3 different shocks are involved and my guess is that 10-20-07 [54611 3L641 is the revalved shock on the 2008s.
below are 2 links for 06 and 08 shock specs

hjc1

Hi Floridabob
The info did not show part numbers. Maybe they changed the valving and the rest is the same.

jimtugs

My dealer changed the shocks as per TSB with no success.When I brought it back for the 2nd. time they told me there was a new TSB which calls for the replacement of a part in the timing chain assembly.After 13 hrs labor and not having my car for 4 days the clunk in gone.It now has a squeek in cold weather from when they changed the shocks.
Something clunking from the right side only makes sense now.

floridabob1

RE: 891
There is a TSB for the timing chain tensioner in some models.
This has nothing to do with the suspension, and only caused a 1 to 3 second sound upon start of engine.

matt215

RE: 892

I posted recently #869. This may be the same issue. Mine is an 07 and it sounds like there is no oil in the engine at startup. Could you please post the number of that TSB? I will follow up with service with that. Thank you.

medic481

I just bought my new Azera Limited / Ultimate., and I think I am experiencing the same rough ride, with the clunking under the front and rear. Is there a link to the TSB 07-50-007 that everyone keeps mentioning? My dealer tried to blow this off when I mentioned the problem. I need to print this out and show him that I know what he apparently does not want to admit. Also how do I determine my car's build date? I bought mine at Fitzmall in Maryland. The sales experience was fine but the shop seems not to be too friendly.

donrw

Medic
RE. build date, open driver door, look lower right at tag just below the lower rear door hinge, tag includes weight info and top left is build date.
If your build date is Dec5-05 to Feb26-07 your Azera has all 4 shocks which exhibit poor low velocity damping. This causes the "clunk" and porpoising.
The first Azera off the assembly line had shock 040 and on Dec5-05 they began installing a revalved version of 040 and called it 041. 041 has a better freeway ride but responds poorly on a bumpy surface at low speed because of poor low velocity damping. On Feb26-07, Hyundai began installing the old, original shock 040, that's why the TSB build date window ends on Feb26-07. They began corrective action on Feb26-07, but did not issue theTSB until Sept-07.
The TSB only addresses replacing the front shocks with the older version 040. 040 is the replacement shock because it has better low velocity damping than 041. No mention is made of the rear shocks because most Azera owner do not perceive the noise coming also from the rear shocks. Check the threads.

For images of theTSB go to post #682 of this thread, there are 2 clickable links
let us know your build date

medic481

Hi there- thanks for the info. I checked- my build date was in April '07. Despite that, this car, which I otherwise love, seems to have a lot of front and rear bounce and chatter when driving at low speeds (20-30mph) on the somewhat irregular streets of Washington, DC. I mentioned in another post on a different thread that I drove a Sonata V6 loaner while my Azera was in the shop for another new car issue (mark on the bumper). have you heard of later build date models with problems? Or is this a design flaw issue that I may as well learn to live with?

mjclements48

Congratulations on the purchase of your Azera! It truly is a fantastic automobile for the money... that being said it is not perfect (no car is). Your referencing the pitch and roll as well as some noise is fairly well documented as suspension issues (as well as some others). I've been in D.C. and the roads can be quite challenging.

I live in Indianapolis, and have had an issue with the uneven rolling of this car since I bought it. The Service Manager claims that Hyundai is coming out with some type of technical fix that involved the Transaxle. My Azera seems to have a slight rumble and a halting feeling when the car is rolling. This is most noticible when the car is going around 40. When you let off the gas and just roll, the Lt. front end seems to have a wavy rumble and the car doesn't roll smoothly. It acts like something is catching as the car rolls. You can feel it in the seats and watch the radar detector bounce as it happens... no fix as of yet though. Mine is a Dec. '06 build the day the factory switched over to the new struts.

Good luck!

medic481

I agree- I could not beat the 0% financing and the 10 yr warranty. I kind of wanted a Honda Accord, but they weren't offering the perks I got from Hyundai (guess you can get away with this when you know you're #1). I took a little "break-in" trip to NYC 2wks ago and rode like a king on the open highway. Strange contradiction: the owner's manual extolls the virtues of modern engineering and declares that no break-in is required- then proceeds to outline how you should drive for the first 1200 miles! Although that slow speed bumping is somewhat annoying, it sure beats the Suzuki Samurai I drove for 15 years! BTW- I put over 100K mi on that Samurai doing nothing but oil changes and the other routine maint items. I am preparing to decamp to the 'left' coast next month, and looking forward to seeing how the Azera performs on a long trip. I'll share my road trip experiences on this site.

andysam

Totally agree. BTW, are they serious when they recommend no more than 55 mph for the first 1200 miles? I tried that and I am afraid I will cause an accident on the highway. Not to mention I have to wake up 30 min earlier. Should I concentrate more on the rpm than on the speed itself? Any thoughts? Anybody? About break-in.
Thanks!

medic481

LOL- Maybe in Korea you can get away with 55mph, but on the New Jersey Turnpike you'll be run over if you do less than 70. I stuck to the R lane on my trip to NYC and tried to vary my speed as often as practical. I'm no mechanic by any stretch, but common sense tells me that varying the speed prevents specific wear patterns from occurring on the inside of a new "tight" engine. That could lead to performance issues in the future, after the internal surfaces are worn and have more play. Despite the fact that I did occaisionally find the needle hovering around 70 during my trip, the engine seems as quiet at 1001 miles as at 70 miles (delivery).

gamleged

During the "break-in period" I did a lot of casual secondary road driving until I reached the 1200 mile figure. Then, as in days gone by, I considered the original oil to be "break-in oil" and changed it and the filter. I figure that that first period of driving generates the worst of the nasty metallic bits floating around, and I wanted them OUT...

medic481

Sounds like a good plan. I did get 300 or so "local" miles on the odometer before heading to NY. I will get the oil changed at 1200 also- thanks for mentioning that!

floridabob1

RE: 902
If you have metallic bits floating around in your oil, your oil filter, which is designed to remove particles over 10 microns in size, is not working.

gamleged

Hey, it made me feel better to do so!

Feeeeelings.... woah, woah, woah, feeeeelings... :shades:

r7n

I have an 07 Azera and have had the front suspension clunk and the dimming headlights. Both struts were replaced per the TSB -- which cured the clunk. Three trips in for service before dealer replaceed struts. The light dimming problem occurred on decreasing RPM between 1050 and 1150. On the first trip to the dealer for this problem, the shop foreman said they could not duplicate the problem, however their tests revealed a lower than normal cranking voltage for the battery. They replaced the battery under warranty and declared all is well. I didn't get very far from the dealership, at night, and noticed that the lights were still dimming. I might mention that all of the interior reading lights dim as well with this problem.

Several days later, I rigged up an analog volt meter (VOM) to test the electrical circuit using the cigarette lighter (aux. power receptacle). That night I went for a test drive with the VOM plugged in to the cigarette lighter. I tested the vehicle in all gears, in manual and automatic modes, through the RPM range where the light dimming occurrs, 1050 to 1150. With the RPM decreasing through this range there is a 1.1 volt drop for about one second. Above and below this range everything is normal.

With this information, I took the car back in for service. I explained to the service rep. that there was a 1.1 volt drop in electrical system voltage on decreasing RPM in the 1050 to 1150 range, which causes the headlights and interior lights to dim. Four days later (way to long) I got the car back and everything seems to be working well. The lights are no longer dimming and no voltage drop. Here's what the repair invoice (warranty) said:

"R&R battery - R&R cable clean paint from body and cable end repairs, reinstall cable, R&R Alternator to battery cable & remove power cable from under hood junction box and clean, reset battery, starting systems - all ok"

BTW, I did have an 08 Santa Fe loaner from the dealer while my car was in the shop. Hyundai has really improved the ride of the Santa Fe but I'll keep my Azera. I love the power, comfort and style. The Azera compares favorably to former cars owned, Lexus, Cadillac and Chrysler.

chilliwack

I too have been experiencing the dimming headlights and it is unnerving. If this is an intentional design to save an infentessimal amount of gas by disengaging the alternator, I cannot see it by my 16mpg performance. If anyone can shed any light on whether there is a TSB, or exactly what it is, I would be grateful. :confuse:

floridabob1

RE: 907
I had a similar problem and dealership replaced battery, at no charge, and problem is now gone.

matt215

Does anyone know any details about the timing chain tension TSB? It was briefly discussed above (#892) and I think it sounds like the loud rattling sound I hear when I start mine in the morning when the engine is completely cold. It is a distinct sound of clanking metal that lasts for about 2-3 seconds and completely stops at once. I have a 2007. Anyone else notice this?

grayfox

Matt, take your car to your dealer and ask the Service Manager to check the TSB for you. The number is 06-20-002 and describes the same symptoms that you have. It will be a waranty item. Good luck!

hyundai2

I've had dimming lights from the get-go, but thanks to the prior post, I am a DO-IT-MYSELFER., I'll attack the needed grounds and see what happens. If that fixes it, great, if not, I'll make a trip to the dealer. Right now, it is in storage for the winter. I fiqure on pulling it out in early May. After putting 30,000 miles on it in 18 months, it was time to give it a rest, before I mileaged it right out of warrentee.

carolinabob

It seems this one has gotten off the topic-front end problems. Need a new topic??

matt215

Thanks for that info. I took it to the dealer and it is in the shop right now and may be for 2 days. If anyone has read my past posts, I hope this is the last issue I have with this vehicle. I traded my 2006 because is was so problematic, I lost all confidence in that vehicle. Here I am after only 1800 miles on the 2007 and it is in the shop for and 8 hr repair. I still have patience because it IS such a nice car. I think I am the only 28 year old who bought one in Pa. The dealership gave me a 2008 Sonata V6 and it doesn't hold a candle to the Azera in any department.

Since it was mentioned above how this forum has gotten off track of the front end issues, I feel that other consumer feedback and concerns should be mentioned and discussed. I found this discussion by typing into Google "Azera quality problems" when I was doing the research prior to purchase. I was very hesitant to give up my 15 month old Acura RSX Type S (my 5th consecutive Honda) for this brand, but everyone seems to speak so highly of the car and Hyundai's overall quality. What drew me to the brand initially was when the latest Sonata generation was released in 2005. The value was unmatched. The Azera takes that Value to the next level and adds a whole lot of sophistication and most importantly - class. I hope this second Azera confirms that I made a good decision - time will tell!

floridabob1

RE: 914
I was not aware that it was necessary to remove the engine to replace the timing belt tensioner.

pcunniff

I just got my brand-new '07 back from Hyundai of Nanuet, Nanuet NY, where the service staff were terribly sweet but not very efficient. Same alarming clatter, only on cold start-up, considerably louder and longer in duration than any car I have ever driven (I am 53)

They followed the TSB about the timing chain tensioner and performed the specified 17-hour repair, which involved removing the engine (!) I can't hear much of a difference in the noise; perhaps it is a bit less metallic and "clanky", but I'm not so sure.

I also had an annoying package-shelf rattle which they said they addressed (no improvement). Ditto for a less noticable front dash rattle (in the center speaker, I think). AND, yesterday the surround-sound Ultimate package stereo was completed distorted and static-y when playing XM above volume level 16 for quite a few minutes, then the problem mysteriously vanished. So, although like you I love the car, I'm getting worried about quality of build and service.

I have just abandoned the UAW after a lifetime of being a total American car guy due to my having been completely burned by two nightmarishly bad Cadillac SRX's (one V8 and one V6) and an '05 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP on which the water pump died at 15,000 miles). I sure hope that I'm not headed down the same road with my new "Seoul Buick."

Regards

101649

it isn't necessary labor intensive, but not to that degree

cobrazera

I am also getting clatter in my "06 Azera on a cold morning startup. We live in Michigan, but the car is always garaged. I didn't notice it last summer or even last winter, but it's there now. It doesn't go away until I have driven at least 5-10 minutes, so it is not the timing chain tensioner which, even if bad, should quiet down after a few seconds.
I'm thinking that it's piston slap because it sounds very similar to a Chevy Tahoe I had which was notorious for that problem. The Tahoe quieted down in about the same amount of time as the Azera takes, and was also worse on cold/overnight startups.
My Azera has only 13K miles, I love the car, it's been perfect to this point, and this little problem is not even worth going to the dealer for - since it would mean an overnight stay. I, like you though, hope this is not just the beginning of bigger problems.

pcunniff

1) Thank you for your response
2) You sound as if you have substantial technical understanding of the problem (which I do not). Is this "clatter" something which is going to significantly shorten the life of the engine?

Thanks

cobrazera

Piston slap is due to increased piston to cylinder clearances in a cold engine. The piston will expand more than the cylinder as the engine warms up, and then everything snugs up as it should.
Piston slap should not significantly shorten the life of the engine, hence, I don't worry about it too much. It's simply a bit annoying, guess I'll just turn on the stereo so I can't hear it.

pcunniff

Thanks so much for your speedy and illuminating response. It sounds like piston slap (as you describe it) might also account that on cold start-up my Azera sounds like a farm tractor -- making sort of primitive, agricultural-machinery sounds -- until it warms up, and then the engine reverts to its usual "find piece of refined machinery" sounds.

Would you agree with that guess?

Thanks again

cobrazera

Methinks you described it perfectly.

busdepot

I too am the proud owner of a 2006 Azera,I love this car.I do not have the any noise from the engine when I start the car,not even on the coldest days here in New York.Now I don't know if this will be of any help,but my brother has a 2003 XG350,the car that the Azera replaced,he started to have the same problem after about 10K miles.He had to leave the car at the dealer overnight so so they could hear the noise for themselves,it only did it on the first start of the day,especially when it was cold.The problem turned out to be in the compressor,they ordered him a new one and after they installed the new compressor the car was as quiet as the day he bought it.I hope this helps some of you out that are having the noisy start up problem,it sounds like the same noisy my brother was hearing.

cobrazera

Very interesting. What "compressor " are you referring to? Thanks.

pcunniff

Thanks for the tip! This morning when I start the car (although it's not super-cold today here in northeastern Bergen County NJ, I will make sure that the whole climate control system is shut off and listen closely. However, I have a feeling it won't apply in my case, because my normal wintertime habit is to leave the system "on" but with the A/C/ compressor "off" until I need it for defogging (to save the slight bit of gas which the compressor eats up).

In my case, the noise is definitely worse the colder it gets, which makes me think tha the "piston slap" hypothesis is the likely culprit. Am I right (asked the English teacher/science moron" in thinking that metal shrinks from cold and expands from heat? If so, that would explain both the worst-engine-noise-on-coldest-mornings problem AND the intermittent metal-on-metal rattle from beneath the rear package shelf. On cold days you can hear it with every slam of the rear door. Last night, however (not very cold), I slammed away and didn't hear it at all.

busdepot

It was the compressor for the A/C,the bearings in the compressor were causing the noise and he was told that the noise would only get worst over time, so they put in a new compressor.He too heard the noise even with the climate control turned off,was very suprised when he was told what the problem was.The A/C in the car worked great,but like someone else stated here,the car would sound like a tractor when he would start the engine every morning for the first few minutes.Before they start to take your engine apart this is something you might want to mention to your dealer,hope this helps you.I want to thank all of you that wrote all the info about the front end clunk,I too had this problem when I first bought my Azera,I brought all this info to my dealer(SANSONE) and they ordered me two new front struts,once they were installed the problem was solved,and until this day that was the only problem I have had with this car.

technishawn

I just drove a 2009 Sonata Limited and it has the same front end "clunk" that my 2006 Azera had.... I will say that it is still a very nice car. I found the 2.4 to be a little buzzy but the 5 speed makes a big difference over the 4 speed in the 08's . It pulls very hard off idle and if you did not know any better you would swear it was a v6. I absolutely loved the front seats.... perfect support even better than my Azera's. The dash and the blue illumination are so much more appealing than the previous models.
The car I test drove was black with the new ten? spoke rims. I found that the car cast a very European look that would normally cost thousands more.

144tap

My local dealer(Escondido,CA),changed out my front struts 41's to 40's. I didn't get off the lot before noticing the clunk from the rt ft strut. I poped the hood, put my lf hand on the shook tower, leaned on the fender and pushed it up and down. I could "feel" the sound in my left hand. I had the SM do the same thing, same results. Brought it back in the following week for an exam and they put the 41 back in. I can still hear and feel the sound but not as bad. Of course my 41 has 18k miles on it. I'm scheduled for another trip in on Mon.3-17-08,Luck-o-de-Irish.

144tap

This is in ref. to my #927 posting. My dealer has been working on and off for a week now with no cure in site. Anyone out there help him?????

snaglepus

"I spoke with service manager and he was very aware of TSB on suspension
but stated he only had a few customers requesting new struts per TSB.
I asked about strut part numbers and he stated:

9/1/05-12/26/05- 54611 3L040

12/26/05-10/20/07- 54611 3L041 [These are the ones that are replaced per the TSB.]

10/20/07-now - 54611 3L641"

Make the last or current shock number 54611 3L640
This is the correct part number for MY 2008.

I wonder what the real differences are besides price, if any . . :confuse:
Will the newer 54611 3L640 shocks fit the older struts?

Mahout?

Retail is $185.29 compared to $179.94 for the earlier shocks.

HTHs

snaglepus

Why not get your dealer to replace your shocks with the new MY 2008 part numbers:

54611-3L640

If they truly have tried everything else, why not :confuse:

It is worth a shot isn't it? Good luck.

HTHs

psu3

As per TSB 07-50-007 replacement struts are the 040 as stated above

However the TSB states that only vehicles made between 12-5-05 to 2-26-07 are covered. Not sure if that has been changed to address a wider time range though.
Are you sure that the 041 units were used through 10-07. If so my vehicle might be covered. It was made in 5-07.

Steve

144tap

Reference #'s 927,928. Thanks snaglepus for your imput. My SM took a whole strut assembly,top to bottom, off a new zerra on Mon.and put it on mine.........no more clunk. So I'm saying goodbye to this problem forum. Now I'm waiting for my red strut bar from SEOULFULRACING.COM.

snaglepus

Good show old boy! Excellent.

So your dealer used a complete strut assembly from a new 2008 (?) and your problems
were solved? Or was the complete strut assembly they pirated from a new 2007?

Were both sides done?

Are you able to notice any differences besides the "klunking" noise disappearing?

I sure did when the dealer changed out my original 041s for the TSB replacement 040s.

Sounds to me like I will be traveling the extra 25-30 miles to go
down to old Escondido from Murrieta to have mine worked on.

Your dealer sounds like they are really hep to solving any problems we may have.

Can you believe that the local dealer here does not have any nor have
they had any 2008 Azeras in stock yet, and it's late March already?

Please be sure to let us all know how your strut brace works out.
Mahout never used one that I know of, and I don't think he finds that to be necessary. :confuse: