Thanks Jim101 for your posting. I printed a copy of it and took to my local St. Louis dealer who agreed that it is a possibliity. I have an appointment tomorrow, the 24th, to have it checked out. I will take a copy of the TSB concerning the Toe-In adjustment with me as well.
I have an appointment on 29 Jan with my Hyundai dealer down on the south end of St louis, on Lemay Ferry. Would that, per chance, be the dealer you are headed to? :confuse: See my post #245 . Let me know what comes out of it!
My Azera (Pearl White, Ulitmate Limited) came from Suntrup but I am taking it tomorrow to Dean Team which is much closer to home. I'll post their findings and results later tomorrow.
Good luck, I just took my Azera in to complain once again about the front end noise and the noise from the rear (struts?). They told me that on 1-23-07 they had talked to the Hyndai rep., who happened to be the area for a car show, and the rep. said "Hyundai is aware of the problem but do not have a fix yet". If your dealer has a solution I hope that they pass it along to Hyundai.
RE: 256 I have been unable to get a response from Hyundai that acknowleges a suspension problem, although as I have previously posted, mine has gone away. I'm sure that those who still have the problem would like to know the name of the Hyundai rep. who says that Hyundai acknowledges a problem and are working on a fix.
The Dean Team really disappointed me yesterday. I went back into the shop and checked the tie-rod position myself which was properly set. The mechanic told me that he could not hear any abnormal noise from the front suspension on a test drive. He said all he heard was "normal Hyundai suspension noises". I responded that my son's Sonata doesn't have the same noises. He said the Sonata has a different suspension. I'm not sure that is correct. He checked the torque on the appropriate bolts and nuts and all were on spec. My Azera Limited clunker is as it was before; UNSATISFACTORY
I am wondering if all the front suspension noises are heard on just the Limited models with the 17 inch wheels or are the SE Owners (with 16 inch wheels) also hearing the noise?
Try talking with the service manager @ Suntrup. With two of us complaining, it will help substantiate the problem a little more. Not just one person. In response to Floridabob, I have rotated my tires 2 times. At 5000 miles I did a front to Rr. At 10000 miles I did a cross rotate. Made NO difference in the clunkes.
So far, April 28th is the latest "build date" for those "clunking" Azeras that anyone has as yet mentioned. If all the "clunks" are early in the manufacture (pre-June?), it looks like something was changed by my "clunkless" June 13 build date...
RE: 263 Hyundai claims that there were no manufacturing or parts revisions made which would affect the suspension. Maybe they are not telling the truth.
I have a 2006 SE with 4000 miles (build date Jan 2006) and have the dreaded clunk as well as whell vibration over 60mph. So it's not only the Limiteds with the 17' wheels.... It's scheduled to be checked by Hyundai late next week. I've made them aware of the TSB's for the wheel vibration already. I'll keep ya all posted...
I stopped in at Suntrup and innocently asked the service writer if there was a service bulletin pertaining to the front suspension noise. As we were talking, a man who said he was the service manager passed by and overheard the conversation. He asked if I was the man who called him. I was not. So, he is aware that there are at least two of us who have voiced the same complaint. Maybe there are more but he didn't say.
My Azera has a date of manufacture of Feb 06 and has the "clunk". It seems to be getting worse. I'm just now coming up on 3,000 miles. I decided to take a look at it myself and found something that doesn't look right. Refer to the on-line parts catalog, and notice the elastomeric (rubber) bushing in the lower control arm where the fork on the bottom of the strut attaches to the arm. On my Azera, there is a definite line of separation in the rubber bushing on the front and back. There is also a black residue streaming downward from the crack and onto the control arm on the front side. I took some high resolution digital images and will take them with me to the dealer. I wish I could figure out how to post them here. Those with the "clunk" should take a look at this bushing closely with a bright flashlight. Pull your car into your driveway while turning the wheels full left before you come to a stop, and you should be able to get under there to look at it. This certainly doesn't look right to me, especially on a vehicle with less than 3,000 miles!
I know of the bolt and bushing you are talking about. I've noticed the bolt does sit in the middle of the bushing on mine either, on either side, but it is only the Rr side that clunks, Also, mine only clunks on rapid extention of the strut and the bushing and bolt are offset towards the bottom. Logic tells me that would make it more apt to clunk on compression. I've never noticed any residue coming from mine, but I not looked for or noticed any separation. That definately sounds like a potential problem. My Azera is a Suntrup as we speak (ha ha). Will see what they come up with. ? about a different matter. How does everyone's external temp quage respond to changing temps while driving. Mine is slower than molasses. I've ck'd it against 4 other digital meters and it will eventially come within a couple degrees, but it is slow. Of a morning when I pull it out of my 50 degree garage, with an outside temp of around 20 degrees, is will take about 15 interstate miles for it to finally make it to 24-26 degree reading. How's yours???
Next time I will proof read BEFORE I post. My bolt does NOT sit in the middle of the bushing. And I'Ve not nticed any sepeeration. And the service manager from Suntrip just called. The found a loose strut nut on the right front. A Hyundai engineer is supposed to be there tomorrow, so they are keeping mine overnight for further inspection. Will post with I have more answeers.
Took some time to jack up, place safety stands, remove R/F tire and wheel and then check every nut/bolt that holds the right front suspension together. Note: DO NOT crawl under, stick arms or any body part under vehicle without safety stands in place. Every nut/bolt took an additional 1/4 turn or more. The bushings were off center, backed off, re centered, re tightened. The clunk has moved on and no longer resides within our Azera.
All of this goes back to 'factory assembly' and application of assembly tools.
Cool. Just goes to show ya, If you want the job done right, you have to do it yourself! I'll do it when I do my next oil change. Thanks for the info Jim.
RE;275 My car is in shop today for steering wheel replacement due to delamination. I just called my service advisor and informed him of you discovery. I asked him to have tech. check these areas. If I get any response from him pertaining to this issue I will post findings.
jim, Did you check the left side at all? Is it possible that the rear suspension is also less than perfect? Is your Azzy totally quiet over the washboard type of surface? Some of us who are not technically adept at doing this kind of adjustment will have to bring your report to our service managers. Thanks for your input. Don
RE 275 Just picked up my car from dealer after steering wheel replacement project. To my dismay, the new wheel came with the remote switches installed. I had changed my audio switch to the 07 version to get additional features. They had not noticed that the switches were different. Needless to say, they didn't want to take unit apart to change the switch to the 07 version. I borrowed some tools from the tech. and changed it myself on their lot. They checked the suspension and could find no loose bolts or misaligned bushings. He also checked computer to see if there were any notices or TSB's about the "clunk" issue. There were none. The Service Manager claims that no other owners have complained about this "clunk".
Only the right front so far, the left side is quieter than a church mouse and the right side has followed suit. I will work my way around, right rear is next.
Dealer/service responses are typical. My dealer/service just talked it away because it did not pose a SAFETY concern.
For those of you who rotate your own tires. Pick up some anti-seize lubricant and put a little dab on each wheel lug before replacing the wheel and re-torquing. I use a q-tip to apply and wipe around the thread. This improves the torque application as dry threads tend to bind and may not actually be at the desired torque level. You only need a little, don't over do it.
I picked up my Zer from suntrup. The front end seems totally quiet. The Rr still clunkes and the service manager and Hyundai rep are aware of it. :confuse: Said it is an engineering problem that they are dilijantly working to find a fix. Oh, the problem on the front, they retorqued a center strut nut. I am still going to follow Jim101's lead and recenter the lower bolt-see post 275, on each side.
Thanks for the info about Suntrup's work. I wonder if they would recenter the lower bolts for you and I? Its sorta cold in my garage right now to be laying on my back. Dean Team said they found all the bolts properly torqued but neither they nor I knew about the centering of the bolts in the bushings. Now, I am wondering if the ID of the bushings is a little too large for the bolts? How much off center are they? Anybody know?
The service men are looking at the paint stripe placed on the nut and stud at the factory. This does not mean the torque is correct. If the paint is still inline (straight) it means the nut hasn't moved (turned) since leaving the factory. So the techs think everything is fine.
If the factory torques to the wrong level the paint stripe is put on anyhow. Obviously 'inspectors' (quality control) cannot test torque every bolt (time consuming).
The amount of thread showing above the nut should be nearly identical on both sides. Same bolt, same nut, torqued to same level. If one side has more thread showing then the other it becomes questionable. IE: one side is 1/16" or more longer than the other side (measuring from the top of the nut to the top of the bolt) the short side is of concern.
Along with the paint stripe the nut or bolt may have 'thread lock' which in the best of cases would not budge when torqued with a proper wrench at the proper setting after the thread lock has had time to cure. To verfy proper torque one would have to back off the nut about two turns and then tighten to proper torque level (with a torque wrench). If the paint stripe lines up the factory torque was correct. If it does not line up the torque was incorrect.
So, if you lean on the wall it may move. Until it does we have to figure out how to present this to the service guys/gals without them thinking that we are trying to tell them how to do their jobs after they spent many, many hours in school to acquire the diplomas and technical knowledge they have. We aren't mechanics so how can we expect them to think we know what we're talking about.
One quick "off the subject" question for you. I live in Texas and the weather hear has pretty cold (certainly not as cold as Minnesota or Wisconsin) and in the morning when I start my Azera it revs up over 2,000 rpms. Given that the engine is cold and most of the oil is in the pan, it causes me concern. I have never had a car that revs up that high. What do you guys think and can the dealership tone it down?
There shouldn't be a problem as the oil film on the engine's moving parts persists for a lengthy period after the last shut-down and should provide protection until more is pumped in...
I've had my Azera since June 2006. The last 3 or 4 weeks here, up North in Montreal, Canada temperatures at night have been between -5F and -13F. That's COLD! Car does rev up to 2000 when started but comes quickly done after a little while. I'm having NO problems whatsoever with the car. As a matter of fact, I'm in LOVE with it! For myself the heated seats are a blessing! I really wouldn't worry about it.
RE; 286 The oil pressure is restored as soon as the starter turns over the engine. As was previously posted, there is enough oil residue to lubricate prior to the pressure restoration. The computer monitors the rpm's. I take it that the rpm's reduce as the engine warms up. If they do not, have your dealer perform a computer check.
The 'clunks' have left the building and the paint stripes on torqued bolts are not in alignment either. Must have been delivered that way, how do I know :confuse: .
My shop air temp should be down to about 7 degrees by morning, so I figure that to be a good time to work around the struts and check all torques and recenter the lower strut attaching bolt. This summer it only gets hotter in there, so I'll "getter done" while the A/C is on. :shades: And check the Rrs while I'm at it.
Changed the oil at 8900 miles (my 3rd). Used Mobil 1 pure synthetic. Pulled the front right tire and checked torques. Bushings did not look out of the ordinary. Jim101..which bushings did you re-center?? Lower arm? Anyway, did find that the lower strut collar bolt..the one that holds the strut at the bottom..was pretty loose. I tightened this and also snugged up the 3 top strut nuts as well. Just got back from a test drive..a short one, and it appears to be better..but I will know for sure in a day or two. I also installed the new radio steering wheel controls that I got for 42. shipped. Works perfectly!!!!! Fairly EZ to do.
Good job, I re-centered any bushing, rubber grommet that did not appear to be centered in the hole. Your find on the lower strut does not surprise me, mine was similar. This goes back to factory torque application error and service from local dealers who just won't put the wrench on and turn to verify. Tell me more about the steering wheel control you got for 42, dollars I'm assuming, can you give me a link to purchase. Thank you
Yes, that is 42 US dollars. I went through this web site: Dream4u.com. They are a Korean outfit and sell OEM stuff. Great service, and priced right. Fast shipping as well. The new switch allows you to seek radio stations and change tracks on individual CD's, but won't let you change CD's or radio presets like the '07 controls do. You will need a Torx T40 to release the center of steering wheel, and a phillips screwdriver for the rest.
Did you disconnect the battery or was it simply no worries about removing the air bag. Did you disconnect the air bag after getting it loose? Unplug connector and reconnect?
The new switch just plugs into the exisiting wiring, right?
Hello Jim..I did not disconnect the battery. I had someone hold the center part of the wheel out of the way. I did not disconnect the airbag. The new wiring just plugs into the existing connector, but be sure to depress the tab on the connector to get the old switch out. I did worry a bit about the airbag. BTW, there is a lot of info on the audio thread.
Hyundai 2, did you work on your car in your air conditioned garage last Sunday? If so, what did you find? I still haven't gotten brave enough to follow your example.
Just walked around with my favorite 12MM wrench. Found loose door bolts. Hinge to door (hinge to body bolts hard if not impossible to reach without removing door) at least two loose on every door. Loose here means that the bolt took 1/2 or more turns to tighten without a lot of effort.
No!! But I did work on my wife's 96 Cutlass and my son's 94 MX-6. OIl, filter and lube on both,(which went quickly) and a complete brake job on the Maxda. Then my eldest son showed up with his '05 Kia Optima, needing oil and filter and one headlight bulb. By that point, I had enough. I should have time Saturday between customers, It's kinda a slow time, so we'll see. It was up to 30 degrees today in the shop. The only real hard part is when I pick up the tools with my bare hands. They tend to get COLD quickly. (My hands and the tools.)
Comments
Unfortunately, you are right.
If your dealer has a solution I hope that they pass it along to Hyundai.
I have been unable to get a response from Hyundai that acknowleges a suspension problem, although as I have previously posted, mine has gone away.
I'm sure that those who still have the problem would like to know the name of the Hyundai rep. who says that Hyundai acknowledges a problem and are working on a fix.
He checked the torque on the appropriate bolts and nuts and all were on spec.
My Azera Limited clunker is as it was before; UNSATISFACTORY
Have you rotated the tires?
Hyundai claims that there were no manufacturing or parts revisions made which would affect the suspension. Maybe they are not telling the truth.
There is an email address and start sending them emails.
Don
Riiiight. That's what they told me. Didn't solve the problem though.
Every nut/bolt took an additional 1/4 turn or more.
The bushings were off center, backed off, re centered, re tightened.
The clunk has moved on and no longer resides within our Azera.
All of this goes back to 'factory assembly' and application of assembly tools.
My car is in shop today for steering wheel replacement due to delamination.
I just called my service advisor and informed him of you discovery. I asked him to have tech. check these areas.
If I get any response from him pertaining to this issue I will post findings.
Did you check the left side at all? Is it possible that the rear suspension is also less than perfect? Is your Azzy totally quiet over the washboard type of surface?
Some of us who are not technically adept at doing this kind of adjustment will have to bring your report to our service managers. Thanks for your input.
Don
Just picked up my car from dealer after steering wheel replacement project. To my dismay, the new wheel came with the remote switches installed. I had changed my audio switch to the 07 version to get additional features. They had not noticed that the switches were different. Needless to say, they didn't want to take unit apart to change the switch to the 07 version. I borrowed some tools from the tech. and changed it myself on their lot.
They checked the suspension and could find no loose bolts or misaligned bushings. He also checked computer to see if there were any notices or TSB's about the "clunk" issue. There were none. The Service Manager claims that no other owners have complained about this "clunk".
Only the right front so far, the left side is quieter than a church mouse and the right side has followed suit. I will work my way around, right rear is next.
Dealer/service responses are typical. My dealer/service just talked it away because it did not pose a SAFETY concern.
For those of you who rotate your own tires. Pick up some anti-seize lubricant and put a little dab on each wheel lug before replacing the wheel and re-torquing. I use a q-tip to apply and wipe around the thread. This improves the torque application as dry threads tend to bind and may not actually be at the desired torque level. You only need a little, don't over do it.
Grayfox
The service men are looking at the paint stripe placed on the nut and stud at the factory. This does not mean the torque is correct. If the paint is still inline (straight) it means the nut hasn't moved (turned) since leaving the factory. So the techs think everything is fine.
If the factory torques to the wrong level the paint stripe is put on anyhow. Obviously 'inspectors' (quality control) cannot test torque every bolt (time consuming).
The amount of thread showing above the nut should be nearly identical on both sides. Same bolt, same nut, torqued to same level. If one side has more thread showing then the other it becomes questionable. IE: one side is 1/16" or more longer than the other side (measuring from the top of the nut to the top of the bolt) the short side is of concern.
Along with the paint stripe the nut or bolt may have 'thread lock' which in the best of cases would not budge when torqued with a proper wrench at the proper setting after the thread lock has had time to cure. To verfy proper torque one would have to back off the nut about two turns and then tighten to proper torque level (with a torque wrench). If the paint stripe lines up the factory torque was correct. If it does not line up the torque was incorrect.
So, if you lean on the wall it may move. Until it does we have to figure out how to present this to the service guys/gals without them thinking that we are trying to tell them how to do their jobs after they spent many, many hours in school to acquire the diplomas and technical knowledge they have. We aren't mechanics so how can we expect them to think we know what we're talking about.
One quick "off the subject" question for you. I live in Texas and the weather hear has pretty cold (certainly not as cold as Minnesota or Wisconsin) and in the morning when I start my Azera it revs up over 2,000 rpms. Given that the engine is cold and most of the oil is in the pan, it causes me concern. I have never had a car that revs up that high. What do you guys think and can the dealership tone it down?
JMJLK
Car does rev up to 2000 when started but comes quickly done after a little while.
I'm having NO problems whatsoever with the car. As a matter of fact, I'm in LOVE with it! For myself the heated seats are a blessing!
I really wouldn't worry about it.
Regards,
The oil pressure is restored as soon as the starter turns over the engine. As was previously posted, there is enough oil residue to lubricate prior to the pressure restoration. The computer monitors the rpm's. I take it that the rpm's reduce as the engine warms up. If they do not, have your dealer perform a computer check.
Tell me more about the steering wheel control you got for 42, dollars I'm assuming, can you give me a link to purchase.
Thank you
Did you disconnect the battery or was it simply no worries about removing the air bag. Did you disconnect the air bag after getting it loose? Unplug connector and reconnect?
The new switch just plugs into the exisiting wiring, right?
Thank you