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Comments
Shame on me, to tighten the lower front strut bolt requires that the strut be compressed not extended. The strut needs to bottom out (be seated). This can be done on an alignment lift or at home. Turn the wheels far left or right, whichever works best for you, while the car is sitting on the ground. Loosen the bottom strut bolt, not all the way. The strut should 'seat' itself, re tighten. You can also drive onto floor ramp-stands if you have them.
The latter would allow for more noise if the part was not secured, tightened more.
Jim101
I am tired of dealing with it.
RE:355
I can only spot 2 slam bumpers out of the four you mentioned. The 2 that I have located are on each side of the hood latch - I couldn't miss them. Would kindly explain to me where the other 2 are? And how did you adjuste the hood latch?
Thanks,
JMJK
You have one bumper on each corner of the hood and if you look to at the top left or right corner of the front grill between the top of the headlight and the grill you will find the other two. You may want to adjust the bumpers first.
I hope this link will give you a more clear picture.
Filbrooks
Hood Rubber Bumpers Photo
RE: 359
I found them, thanks. One more question. You said in your post that you adjusted the slam bumpers and the hood latch. Did you have to remove anything to get at the hood latch?
Thanks,
JMJK
You don't need to remove anything. You may need a 1/4 inch drive metric ratchet set with a 8 to 12 inch extension. The socket is a 12MM. You can reach the 3 bolts through the front grill. The adjustment is for a fine tune, this means that the latch won't move much. After adjusting the bumpers press down the front of the hood and if you have excessive play then adjust the latch. Good lock.
Filbrooks
As you can tell I am frustrated. We , with the clunk, need to all keep on Hyundai's case until this problem is resolved.
Other than the "clunk" the ride is great. I rode in an '06 Accord yesterday and there was no comparison, the seats in the Azera, the overall comfort, and solidness of the ride was far superior to the Honda. Now if we could just get rid of the clunk I think we'd one of the best cars on the road.
Have you tried any of the "fixes" reported on these forums?
Great question, answer is because we can.
It appears the factory engineers 'may or may not' be working the concern. My bet is 'may not'.
Dealers only work HMC distributed concerns, repairs, fixes because they will not get paid for 'search and find' possible warranty issues.
Therefore, because we can, and because some of us our mechanics, engineers or mechanically talented and enjoy the quest to resolve an issue.
Sometimes it is better to make adjustments vs. waiting for the 'system' to follow through.
This 'clunk' seems to be within a certain built date range.
Again, thanks for asking, hope this helps.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
There have been a few really good suggestions here and on other forums detailing what to look for. As the weather continues to warm up in NY, I'll tighten struts and other bushings and hopefully be in a position to share what fix worked for me & help others out too.
While annoying for sure, the Azera is still a great value, and has been reported to have lesss problems than many of ot's [non-permissible content removed] an US competition.
Good Luck with whatever you purchase.
Your "cure" reminds me of a 76 Dodge Ramcharger that I once used for work. The rear door (hatch) rattled and drove me crazy. It continued to get worse until one day the rattle magically disappeared! Unfortunately the chief engineer, who was following me, wasn't so impressed with the cure! It took out his front end!
I am still hoping the clunk in the front right suspension "heals" on my 2006 Azera limited. by the way it was manufactured in Feb 06. seems to be a problem with the early productions.
I also had a major problem with tire flatspots. michelin is supposed to be shipping me new tires at no cost.
Any other 2007 owners with the clunk??
Looking back at the 2006 "clunk" and at a couple of posters who have corrected it themselves, it's beginning to look like the primary cause is insufficiently torqued strut hardware which allows a little too much movement and permits the suspension to juuuust contact the body (producing a "clunk") under certain conditions.
If so, and as the 2007 suspension probably hasn't changed, the occasional "clunk" may still come out of the factory...
Thanks for the tip. I looked at the posts for the Azera including the photos of the lower control arm and got under my Sonata to look at it today. I do not see any visible space in mine. I, then, looked at the top strut mount bolts and saw no obvious loosening indicated by paint lines still lining up. I did not re-torque them, however.
I did suspect the struts from the beginning, however, since the problem only happens on certain kinds of bumps (actually more related to abrupt waves in the otherwise smooth road surface. The combination of two waves produces the most repeatable result.) which cause the strut to extend first rather than compress, although it will do it also with a compression followed by a quick extension. Perhaps it is just easier to hear when there is no pothole connected to the actuation thus eliminating the combination of tire noise with mechanical noise. It is funny, however, that on a dirt road with washboard which actuated everything repeatedly I heard nothing but normal sounds.
I'll re-torque the strut mounts tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for the input.
Because the inspectors paint mark is aligned does not mean that the nuts are tight. Mine all turned from 1/4 to 1/2 more.
The bottom of the strut seems to be the area of concern. I'm confident that the lower nut will tighten from 1/2 to 3/4 turn or more, then the noise should be gone, bye-bye and hostalvisa baby (SP).
Go for it...
Seems the 'clunk' issues have abated quite a bit. Makes one think we eliminated many clunks in many Azeras and still have a few with a clunk.
Next time the car is on the hoist ask the mechanic to tighten the body mount bolts. Tell him/her that they may move from 1/4 to 1/2 turn or more.
Good luck
I am a licenced exterminator... so watch out...
I wonder if sand blasting would work?
Don
If anyone on this forum has access to Hyundai engineering, please pass the info along so they can fix or re-calibrate the robot on the Korean assembly line. Or at least include the special torque adapter with each car
Can you recommend a qualified and "competent" dealer within a thousand miles of my location in Newfoundland?
Warrantees are a joke!
I wonder if it would be cheaper to keep him in the passenger seat or under the car? :confuse:
Well at least we have a barter system.
(reply) I'm not a mechanic, can you show me what you mean?
(after seeing) So what does this mean, I don't understand?
Bottom line, how would you know how it came from the factory. Did the dealer inspect during set-up, I don't think so.
Dont forget to tighten the nut on the bottom of the strut, it does not have a paint line???
Paint lines straight = clunk :sick:
Paint lines not lined up = no clunk
Paint lines, no impact on anything if not aligned from nut to thread
The choice is yours, good day
The Azera is so quiet, every noise is magnified as there is nothing but the radio and conversation to hear other than the suspension feedback.
If you want to quiet it more, I suppose regular profile, like a 70 series may be more pliable and take up some of the feedback from the road. Over inflating or inflating tires to its maximum will also cause more noise.
Enjoy the serenity!
Sure, if you want a 70's Town Car / Fleetwood swailer. Then maybe Hyundai will put foot rests for the ladies in the rear compartment to compliment the opera and coach windows.
Add a couple of bud-vases and you're there!...