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This is a 4 position switch that only the fourth position works on. Does anyone know if this sounds like a switch, or is it something more complicated? If it is a switch, I can probably change it, if not probably a trip to the dreaded dealer. Thanks
I remember working on my old '88 Chevy Beretta for a dashboard light problem and was interested to see the back of the blower fan control switch had different-sized resistors across the contacts on the back of the switch. Is it possible that's where the blower fan control resistors are located?
I sure wish I could remember where I read that about a resistor controlling positions 1-3 and 4 was not in series with the resistor. You might do a search in the Wrangler board or the Liberty board...I was pretty sure someone had the answer to what you were looking for.
It would have to be either a fuse (fuses?), a broken connection or bad plug.
Push the interior light (built in switch) in the back (by rear glass) four or five times quickly. Fixed my problem. As Farout stated, the Tech may have left it in the ON position, try one click first.
-Check that all bulbs glow evenly and individually.
-Ask someone to apply the brakes and repeat the inspection.
When two adjacent bulbs (or filaments) glow partially, one of them has lost it's ground connection. When an individual bulb/filament (blinker) is slow or stops blinking, it's not pulling enough current usually because of a defective or over heated (melted) contact.
We also have a 2002 Liberty with the same problem. It's been doing it for two years. The dealer 'thinks' of things that might fix it but I'm not about to let them replace/charge me for something that they are not sure will fix it. I figure my best solution to date has been to wait until it's a continuous versus intermittent problem. Keep us updated.
2005 Jeep Liberty with less than 5,000 miles which has been through the issues - faulty water pump - replaced. faulty A/C compressor - replaced and then the speedometer quitting completely. Put it on OBD II and indicated speedometer sensor - replaced one sensor - still the same problem and was considering ordering the second sensor from the States to see if this would solve the problem when the owner came up with a new problem.
Driving after about 1/2 hour - transmission "lurched" slightly then all electrics died and car died. After a few minutes - car would start up again and be good for another 5 minutes of driving - then same problem again.
Got cat to my garage and just let is sit running. After a period of time - while watching - speedometer would jerk up to 10, 20 30 MPH - then back to 0. Again this would happen until finally car would stop - no electics. After starting (no problem) same thing happened after 5 minutes.
OBD only indicates P0501 - speed sensor fault.
Suggestions please - and please don't say take to the dealer as they are non-existant and worthless here.
Try bending and stretching all cables (related to engine management) in the engine compartment and around the steering column after re-inserting all connectors into their sockets. If it's a cabling issue you have a chance to detect it this way. Don't forget the speed sensor (rear differential)and the battery lugs. The ECU does not always keep "ON" the "field connection" of the alternator! This can act as a mask during your investigation.
After doing this if there is no improvement you may have to look for broken solder joints under the ECU and speedometer connectors. Good luck
Any idea if there is a fuse somewhere that control that or else?
The flaps of the ventilation system are moved by a "vacuum logic" system. There could be something stuck in the ventilation housing or you could have a pinched tube somewhere.
The heater control panel of the console carries this rotary 'vacuum / vent' distributor where 6 tubes are connected. The blowing of air towards the floor is accomplished by the second and third tubes coming from the bottom of the control. These tubes are color coded BLUE and YELLOW.
The GREEN tube is used for the recirculation flap,
The BLACK tube for vacuum connection,
The BROWN for 'Panel-Door' full,
The BLUE for 'Floor / Defrost Floor',
The YELLOW for 'Floor / Defrost Floor' mid position,
The RED for 'Panel-Door' mid.
Do you know any way to access easily that part of the console? I would like to spend some time this week-end to look into this problem but I fear that accessing that (behing the console) will be a nightmare...
Appreciate any Advice.
While I'm driving suddenly all of the dash lights, the a/c control lights, and the shifter lights will turn off (also the gauges will turn off with the needles falling down)and then flick back on. Basically, the dash board is acting as if I turned the car off(lights off, gauges off) and then back on with all of the indicator lights(the oil light, seat belt light, brake light, etc.) turning on and then turn off one by one. All this is happening while I'm driving.
Also, whatever is going on is effecting my tripometer and odometer. When the dashboard flicks off then back on the tripometer starts over at 3.5 miles and my odometer doesn't gain any miles.
Any thoughts or suggestions what it might be?