:mad: I have tracked my fuel economy since my first tank of fuel, and at 2600 miles I am averaging between 11 and 12 mpg.Thats average with city and highway about 60%-40%,normal driving,without a heavy foot,reg, and premium fuel does not matter.I would like to hear from other owners, GM says I am the only person with this problem,thanks
I have a 05, I5 crew cab Z71. I average between 17 and 19 locally and 20-21 in just highway. I thought I should be doing better especially since I have worked the engine and don't have a light foot. Seems like something wrong with your mileage. :shades:
I've been relatively satisfied with my fuel economy. I have a 2004 crew cab Z71 and average about 18 Mpg around town and moderate foot. I've done a number of long trips and averaged almost 23 Mpg with the truck bed loaded and 3 occupants. I'm starting to look back at the full size 1500 as several friends have them with the small V8 and they're seeing similar numbers on the highway. I like my Colorado but would love to have the full size for towing a camper.
I have a 2004 Colorado. Love the Truck. But now have problems with the remote Lock system. One day it will lock, next day it won't. Thisis not an add on, it came with my truck. I have changed the battery in the remote. Has anyone else had this problem? Thank you for any input you may have. :confuse:
I've had my Colorado since 2004 and it is approaching its 3 year mark. It's currently at 26,316 miles. No major problems. Only concern was that when I first picked it up, the steering fluid resevoir cable was not tightened well that leaked at the freeway and lost power steering. It is also not a major problem, but I had to replace my low beam driver side headlamp three times in the last 2 1/2 years. The passenger side low beam headlamp just went out a week ago.
As far as maintenance, I have been servicing my truck at every 7 months or 10,000 miles. Thats even before the maintenance light comes on. My dealer forgot to replace the fuel filter, which is a requirement at 26,000, so I will have them do that when I go in for the recall service on the break light.
I do notice a little vibration on the steering wheel, but it appears to go away after every service. My dealership started to add a graphite synthetic oil with the regular oil called Krex as part of their service. That seem to calm the vibration and the slight knocking at engine warm up. *knocking is natural when the engine is cold. You should only be concerened when its knocking when its hot.
Since my warranty is about to end, I am now considering on lifting the truck to about 4" higher and slapping in there some bigger tires. A couple of the aftermaket manufacturers have come out with a bolt on kit for a suspension lift for Colorado's and Canyon 4wd. :P
My 05 Extended cab, 2wd Z71, 5 cyl. automatic is getting over 21 every single tank when not pulling a trailer or something like that, mixed small town and short (less than 20 Mile) highway spurts. Only extended Interstate romp produced an astounding (to me at least) 26+ mpg over 1800 miles at typically 5 mph over the posted limit.
this is higher than I have ever seen reported, but no BS. It may be driving habits or how I broke it in, I dunno
I have to drive thru traffic everyday, so I get around between 19~21 mpg. However, long highway driving, I get about 20~24 mpg. My regular speed limit is 60~70 mph.
Does anyone own a 4 cylinder ?????? I want to hear about the fuel economy of the 2.8 4 banger. OR is everyone on the road Mario Andretti??? (one would think so the way everyone drives around here)
I cant attest to the mileage on the 4, but when making my purchase decision on my 05 I hunted and pondered long enough to test drive 4 cyl with both rear gears offered, they reminded me too much of my old gutless wonder 87 S10 with the 4 cyl
Mine has a similar issue - The locks don't work, from the remote or the power lock button. I am working on it right now. It seems like, if your power locks don't function as well, that there is an open circuit somewhere between the BCM(Body Control Module) and the locks themselves. I am still looking into the issue, so I am not sure where the actual issue is.
The wiring to the driver's side door is bad, as 1/2 of the functions on the control panel don't work/don't recieve power at all. Again, a break in the wiring somewhere between the BCM and the controls/doors. Sucky.
I just found out that my truck isnt governed, I bought it used so im thinking that the previous owner removed it, I topped it at 128 from some jerk off in an Altima trying to cut me off, it wasnt even close.
Hello again, Mine worked for 2 weeks, and now it is doing the same thing, won't lock, and drivers window won't go down. The car dealership didn't do anything for me, because it started working again. Did anyone come up with a fix on this. Anyway we can get GM to fix this with a recall notice? Thanks for any help. giz5220
Try this; remove the drivers door control panel. (the window and lock buttons.) Seperate the control panel from it's electrical panel. Clean both surfaces and the terminals and pins. Reapply grease designed for electrical contacts, then do the re-install. What appears to be happening is an intermittent fault in the electrical connection. Dirt or water in the enviornment can enter the door and cause these problems.
if the two issues (lock and window) are not the same cause, it is pretty well known among the Mr goodwrench guys that the motors for the windows have a tendency to freeze up, (but, normally the less used passenger side window). Not limited to colorado. Easiest attempt to jar it loose is a few very hard door slams, that failing, I have (2000 Monte Carlo) removed interior door panel and tapped the motor with a small hammer, which has never failed to free it up.
I've got the same problem with my 05 Colorado. Drivers side window and power locks stop working, but passenger side window keeps working. Seems to randomly to go on and off, but also seems to be aggravated by the computer automatic locking the doors once you shift out of park.
It only happens periodically and mostly more often when it's cold outside, primarily when the temps below freezing. Works all summer. In the winter it seems to come back on once my trucks has heated up and been driven for 30min or so. May be condensation on the contacts...or ???
Did anyone try pulling the door apart and cleaning the contacts? Did it work? Anyone isolate the problem?
I just purchased a 2007 regular cab Canyon and was doing a little reading on here and found something regarding bed alignment. I have a very light wind whistle (i wouldn't even call it a whistle) and after looking noticed the bed does seem to be out of line with the cab a little bit. Although it looks like if you move it one way it will be out of line on the other side. Is this even worth going to the dealer about? Will they be able to align the bed or will they look at me like I'm crazy??
Welcome to the wonderful world of wind noise. I have a 2005 Canyon, and for the most part, I like the truck. The one thing that has been bothering me from the outset, however is the wind noise in the cab. I have managed to tone it down quite a bit, however it's still noticible and annoying.
So far, I've: Aligned both the cab AND bed to the frame. They were within 1/8" or, so, but now I have it dead on; Applied a layer of Cascade sound deadening mat to the back of the cab, the roof of the cab, and the inside of the door panels; Filled the winshield header channel, and A-pillars with Dap-plex expandable foam sealant; Filled the gap around the rear window/body interface with 5/16" rubber tubing; Added a piece of 7/16" foam weatherstripping from the top of the door, where the OE stripping ends, downward, to where the door handle is, to seal out rushing air; Applied a coat of liquid Dynashield to the underside of the floor of the cab, for both rust proofing, as well as sound deadening.
Like I said, I've improved the situation, but it still is annoying, especially in a crosswind.
I have had the same problem! It just started for the first time a few weeks ago. I just hit 36,000 when the locks wouldn't work, and neither would the drive side window roll down. I took it to the dealer and it took them 2 days, for me to call them, and tell me they did nothing and it started working again. I said whatever, because they always pull this [non-permissible content removed]. Now it just started today again. Has anyone contacted someone about a recall or anything? I don't live where it's freezing, so I wasn't sure if that was it. Is it a fuse, because they said they checked that and it wasn't an issue. Please help!
Thank God I don't have that problem. Then again, my truck is a 2005. They must have worked out the bugs from 2004 on the 2005 Colorado's.
On my 2000 Silverado, I did have that problem. Found out water was getting into the doors because the seal that separates the window from the door wirings had a gap. Whenever it gets wet inside, the door lock and windows wouldn't work right. I took the door apart, found where the wrinkle is on the sheeting. Thoroughly dried everything that was wet, lubricate moving parts, and installed the sheeting back. Problem did not occur since then. Then again, I traded the old Silverado for a 2005 Colorado.
You know, I do hear windnoise from my 2005 Colorado also. But it is not that loud that my stereo can't handle it. Also, don't forget to make sure that the external pressure cab release valve is able to close all the way. If that is kept open, you will hear all the road noise from the bed and rear tires.
Island, I understand what you're saying, but keep one thing in mind. If your cab is inherently loud due to wind noise, and you crank the stereo to drown it out, you've created a really loud environment. Over the long term, this could cause hearing damage. Secondly, you may not hear warnings from car horns, emergency sirens, etc.
Don't worry, I'm not a panic inducing freak, but I worked around loud equipment at my job for a long time, and as a result, I now live with continual "ringing" in my ears. It's subtle, but it's still there.
That being said, I also enjoy a good sound system, both at home and in the car/truck. I was considering upgrading the setup in my Canyon, but until I can get the cab noise level down a little more, I don't consider it a worthwhile modification.
Having tried all that you have, I would begin to wonder if it isn't the glass or body gap issue. I would hate to make more work for you; but first you could have a friend in the truck listening to see if they can pinpoint the source of the sound. Once found the fix ought to be easier. Chasing these things is brutal. I had a screeching sound like a brake dragging. It took me months to find the cause and 15 minutes to fix it. So it goes when you expect a $25,000 vehicle to perform like one.
Well I just got back from the dealer for this problem; apparently there are many Colorados with this problem but no GM fix. 1. check all fuses. 2. remove driver's side control panel and check that all of the plugs are tightly in place.( this was my problem. 3. According to the Colorado Owners list, the final repair is to replace the control panel with part# 15141484.
Although this an intermittent problem and mine started workin g again on the way to the dealer (naturally), the tech got it to stop working again by driving over a bumpy road. It was his guess that repalcing the control panel simply resulted in properly attaching the connectors. They are holding a new control panel for me just in case. I hope this is the cure, I'll let you know. I hope you find this helpful. Mike
Mike, I appreciate what you're saying, however there doesn't seem to be any single source for the noise. It just seems to be a general wind "roar" from air hitting the back window at speed.
One of my co-worker's fathers has a Colorado similar to mine, and he's driven it several times. He recently rode in my Canyon and commented on how much quieter my truck was. Personally, I think I've done all I can, and the source is actually the shape of the rear pillars of the truck, which are creating some sort of turbulence.
I've spoken with a couple of people who have the extended, or crew cabs, and they don't hear the noise that I do. This reaffirms, in my mind anyway, that it's realted to the rear pillar, and since the longer cabs place the driver further away from it, it isn't as noticible.
Starting to sound like a broken record, but I have experienced the same thing twice in my '06 LT Crew cab. Problem is intermittent, with driver's window not working and power locks shutting down altogether. It seems to correspond to cold, wet weather, and the problem disappears after a couple of hours of driving. Doesn't look the problem has been fixed in later model years.
I recently posted about my experience with the same problem, Here in Florida we don't have cold weather so I knew it had to be something else. I took it back to my dealer who actually has a service department that doesn't let phantom problems go. The mechanic who worked on the truck told me it primarily happens on crew cabs and is aresult of the electrical clips on the bottom of the control module not being properly locked place. Repeated slamming the door and riding over bumps dislodge and then intermintedly cause the problem. He properly reattached the power plugs after applying dielectric grease to the contacts. So far so good.
You should have them make an attempt to fix it. I didn't have them look at mine for the reason that you suggest and now I regret it. There may be some other things down the road that they won't do anything about, others that won't completely get fixed and there are always the ones that they know about but won't tell you about unless you describe it properly. So I say have them fix anything you find. Mine has been at the dealer going on three weeks now and they haven't had an opportunity to start it cold to check for one of the several problems that I took it in for. It has been sitting outside most of the time though, waiting for the next round of parts that GM authorizes.
I have a 2004 Colorado with what I think is the same problems with the power locks and windows. In February of 2006 the remote locking system, the power locks, and the driver's side power window stopped working out of the blue. It was a nice sunny day I recall. The passenger power window continued to work; and so did the power side view mirror controls. Later in the day, out of the blue, the power locks and windows returned to their proper function. I took it directly to the dealer. They checked the driver's side control panel, the wiring, and the connections. They test drove the vehicle; and couldn't replicate the problem. They told me to bring my Colorado in while the problem was occurring so they could hook it to their diagnostic equipment. The problem re-occurred again in January 0f 2007. Two times in January the problems went away while I was in the service bay waiting for service. One of those times they went through the same diagnostic procedures they had gone through the previous February. The same problems re-occurred this week. I printed all the comments from this website to show them. This time the problems went away after they had started checking the vehicle out. They then contacted GM for help. They found something on the GM website that seemed to reference a similar problem. The reference was PIT3164A (10/17/2006). GM said power window fuse #42 was causing the power locks and windows not to function. The vehicle commuter was sensing a overload to fuse #42's circuit and shut down the power lock and power window system functions before fuse #42 actually blew. They said the overload was occurring when both power window controls were used at they same time, or the power window and the power lock controls were pressed at the same time. GM said the controls would start working properly once the on-board computer sensed the cooling of the circuit or the nonexistence of an overload. They told the dealers not to attempt repairs, but to tell the vehicles owners to modify their behavior. I have my doubts because I don't do what they say causes the problem. The problems goes away long after the circuit has cooled down. The dealer said they would contact GM with my problem. The dealer guessed the problem might require some re-programing by GM of the on-board computer. They said they would contact me once GM got back with them with a solution. I am not confident. They might have isolated the circuitry problem; but not the proper cause of those problems.
I understand what GM told the dealer but why do nothing. Either refresh the BCM to recailebrate when the fuse results become a factor or simply up the amps on the fuse. Really how many people ride around pushing both buttons at the same time. If you think about it, it would be hard to do. I have to say since my dealer removed the electrical connections and re-greased them, I haven't the problem re-occur. Good luck and hopefully this problem will get resolved with-in our lifetime.
Just figured I'd let you all know that I am another '04 Crew Cab owner who just experienced the same issue. I appreciate your input here, hopefully it will help my dealer zero in on the solution quicker. Hopefully GM will take notice of the pattern.
I traded in an '05 Envoy XL XUV for an '06 Canyon Crew Cab 4WD Off Road model. Now kinda wish I'd kept the Envoy but after the accident and 2 months of repairs, reliability took over my mindset so I traded. Purchased in Jan, I have 2000 miles and have been back to the dealer once for dead battery (3 days after picking up the truck) - passenger heated seat grounding draining the battery and twice (so far) for air noise in the drivers door and sunroof. In reading an earlier post, I have turned up the radio but this is a temporary "solution". My 3rd trip to the dealer is next Friday when the weatherstripping on the driver's door will be replaced (the door has already been adjusted) and part/all of the sunroof will be replaced. We'll see....as for mileage, normal driving is getting me about 15 mpg in town. I do like the truck, but starting to wonder.
I've had my Canyon for two and a half years. I average 19 MPG around town, and 23 on the highway. I traded a 2002 FX4 F-150 extended cab to get better mileage in Oct 2004. This truck has run great. It is quiet, smooth, and efficient. I towed a 2500lb trailer from Florida to Michigan in June 2005, and averaged 17mpg the whole way. The traction control has worked beautifully during the last two winters in Michigan. I recently drove a 2001 F-150 crew cab 4WD lariat w/5.4 triton. The seats were nice, but the truck felt like a dog compared to my Canyon in performance, and handling. I hear all the people with complaints, how about a few more that enjoy this beautiful little truck.
Today, April 7, 2007, I encountered the SAME EXACT thing.....every word of your symptoms above are exactly the same as mine. I took apart the controls, checked the wiring and the fuses and nothing was apparently wrong. I reconnected the controls and everything was working again, but for only one time and then the problem reoccured (thankfully with the window up this time). I then went online and found your problem on the first search I made. I will let you know what I find out, hopefully my window and locks will work in a little while. I also have had the rear passenger (I have a crew cab Colorado 2004) window periodically not work from time to time and it seems to work itself out and function again.
I have had my Colorado now 27 months, not single glitch, with anything, I am happy to say.. 2005 Z71, 5 cyl auto, 2WD, I live somewhat rural so my "local" MPG is around 21, interstate as much as 25+. Seemed like the mileage significantly improved AFTER I towed a trailerful of furniture (maybe 3500lbs trailer and contents) for about 750 miles, then 750 empty trailer. Maybe I'm lucky, but the only complaint I have is the seat belt on the passenger side rattles against the side when not in use.
I've had my colorado(2005) for not quite a year yet and my paint is starting to bubble up on the passenger side and down along my faring, its coming off! For the most part i'm happy with the truck as far as it meeting my needs. But the paint becoming an issue, and is really starting to make me mad! Does any one else have this problem? :mad: :surprise:
What color if your truck? I know there have been some folks on the Impala board complaining about problems with red paints (inc. maroon) chipping and bubbling.
I didn't make it through all of the posts but it sounds as if I have one of the higher mileage ones here, at 60,000. I have the 2005 extended cab 5 cyl, 2wd, and love it. With 60K on a 2 year old truck, obviously I do a lot of highway driving. My only issues have been a fluke O2 sensor back under warranty, and a dash panel that twice now in 2 years, has lit all up when I started it, concerning me, then I shut the car off, turned it back on and gone. I change oil when it says to, no more frequent (which scared me for a while), have not yet replaced anything other than tires, and swapped out for a K&N air filter, and I consistently get 22 mpg. No fuel filter yet, no premium, no additives. I'd say my highway is up towards 25, for trips, and recorded once as high as 27 for a very smooth 5 hour trip.
Just had the exact same problem occur on my '04 crew cab. Would definately like to nip this in the bud, as it were. When you say the electric clips on the bottom of the control module, are you talking the control switches that are located on the arm rest of the door? Thanks for the tips, I appreciate your input.
Unless one of the other manufacturers come up with something that fits my needs in a hurry, I'm about to buy an '08 Colorado. With all the problems I'm reading about on the 04-06 models, can I expect that most of these problems to be resolved on the '08 model? Would it be wiser to grab an '07 to save some money, or are there substantial improvements in the '08?
I have an '05 Colorado and just this morning my power locks would not function as well as my driver side window. All other windows were fine. The advice you received from GM seems to make sense to me in that if the power window button and the power lock button were pushed at the same time it would cause an overload. I had left my dog in the car while I went into the store and she must have been standing on both buttons or held one of them down for a while. I have noticed in the past that she has inadvertently unlocked the truck.
My window and locks are now working! Let me share my experience, maybe it will save someone else some frustration. Based on everything I have read online I do believe that my dog was holding down the lock button until the on board computer shut down the circuit as it is designed to do. I waited most of the day and it still was not working. I tried all the advice I read; I checked the fuse box, I unscrewed the control board from the arm rest, disconnected the wires and plugged them back in securely. Nothing! I removed them again and applied the electrical grease as someone suggested. Nothing! I disconnected the battery as someone suggested. Nothing! The last thing I tried made no sense to me but I did it anyway, I removed the control panel, disconnected the wires, removed the screws that hold the circuit board in place and removed it. The way it is constructed prevents anything getting held down incorrectly, nothing was out of place, it is very simple and straightforward. Anyone who removes this will see how simple it is and that there is no way it could be damaged by holding down one, two or all the buttons at once for a hundred and fifty years straight. Yet, when I put it back together the window and locks worked!
I would have been happier if it just blew a fuse. We can all be thankful GM doesn't build airliners.
I have encountered the drivers window, keyless entry problem as well about 5-6 times. dealer can't seem to do anything about it, had a problem with my heat/cool fan quiting on me. My front right blinker goes out about every month. Brake lights stopped working(before the recall on the brake light switch). So they said they would fix it but i had to leave the truck in so they can take it out order a switch and wait for it to come in, even though they had one in stock. they said that on warrenty stuff the part has to be ordered. so i just bought the $10 part and put in my self. Some more little electrical problems as well, like some radio lights don't work, heater lights don't work. Last time i buy a Chevy or even American. Oh and you can fit a car seat in the back of a extended cab but not a baby seat, more like a toddler seat. It is very tight and might depend on the seat also. There are anchors for them.
oh believe me i know how you feel i have an 05' colorado crew cab they told me it got 26 in the high way, HA yea right on the high way i average about 20 16-17 in the city i put about 50 bucks a week in gas in it it sucks literally well if gas prices get any higher im gonna sell it and ive only had it a little over a year so believe me your not the only one there is nothing wrong with your mileage well there is IT SUCKS
I don't know your whole story but is this the best mileage you have gotten since you got the truck? Have you changed to more aggresive tires; tried different gas; drove like a little old lady; etc. Is your truck 4-wheel drive?
My 04 Colorado has 81,000 and the door lock and drivers window problem has been an issue with me now for a few months. I just today searched the internet and came to this site today. Sounds like a recall is needed here. I too popped of the drivers door armrest, removed and reattached the connectors and it worked too. We shall see. Thanks for all the advice too.
Comments
As far as maintenance, I have been servicing my truck at every 7 months or 10,000 miles. Thats even before the maintenance light comes on. My dealer forgot to replace the fuel filter, which is a requirement at 26,000, so I will have them do that when I go in for the recall service on the break light.
I do notice a little vibration on the steering wheel, but it appears to go away after every service. My dealership started to add a graphite synthetic oil with the regular oil called Krex as part of their service. That seem to calm the vibration and the slight knocking at engine warm up. *knocking is natural when the engine is cold. You should only be concerened when its knocking when its hot.
Since my warranty is about to end, I am now considering on lifting the truck to about 4" higher and slapping in there some bigger tires. A couple of the aftermaket manufacturers have come out with a bolt on kit for a suspension lift for Colorado's and Canyon 4wd. :P
this is higher than I have ever seen reported, but no BS. It may be driving habits or how I broke it in, I dunno
The wiring to the driver's side door is bad, as 1/2 of the functions on the control panel don't work/don't recieve power at all. Again, a break in the wiring somewhere between the BCM and the controls/doors. Sucky.
What appears to be happening is an intermittent fault in the electrical connection. Dirt or water in the enviornment can enter the door and cause these problems.
It only happens periodically and mostly more often when it's cold outside, primarily when the temps below freezing. Works all summer. In the winter it seems to come back on once my trucks has heated up and been driven for 30min or so. May be condensation on the contacts...or ???
Did anyone try pulling the door apart and cleaning the contacts? Did it work? Anyone isolate the problem?
Thanks, Chuck
So far, I've:
Aligned both the cab AND bed to the frame. They were within 1/8" or, so, but now I have it dead on;
Applied a layer of Cascade sound deadening mat to the back of the cab, the roof of the cab, and the inside of the door panels;
Filled the winshield header channel, and A-pillars with Dap-plex expandable foam sealant;
Filled the gap around the rear window/body interface with 5/16" rubber tubing;
Added a piece of 7/16" foam weatherstripping from the top of the door, where the OE stripping ends, downward, to where the door handle is, to seal out rushing air;
Applied a coat of liquid Dynashield to the underside of the floor of the cab, for both rust proofing, as well as sound deadening.
Like I said, I've improved the situation, but it still is annoying, especially in a crosswind.
On my 2000 Silverado, I did have that problem. Found out water was getting into the doors because the seal that separates the window from the door wirings had a gap. Whenever it gets wet inside, the door lock and windows wouldn't work right. I took the door apart, found where the wrinkle is on the sheeting. Thoroughly dried everything that was wet, lubricate moving parts, and installed the sheeting back. Problem did not occur since then. Then again, I traded the old Silverado for a 2005 Colorado.
Don't worry, I'm not a panic inducing freak, but I worked around loud equipment at my job for a long time, and as a result, I now live with continual "ringing" in my ears. It's subtle, but it's still there.
That being said, I also enjoy a good sound system, both at home and in the car/truck. I was considering upgrading the setup in my Canyon, but until I can get the cab noise level down a little more, I don't consider it a worthwhile modification.
1. check all fuses.
2. remove driver's side control panel and check that all of the plugs are tightly in place.( this was my problem.
3. According to the Colorado Owners list, the final repair is to replace the control panel with part# 15141484.
Although this an intermittent problem and mine started workin g again on the way to the dealer (naturally), the tech got it to stop working again by driving over a bumpy road. It was his guess that repalcing the control panel simply resulted in properly attaching the connectors. They are holding a new control panel for me just in case. I hope this is the cure, I'll let you know. I hope you find this helpful. Mike
One of my co-worker's fathers has a Colorado similar to mine, and he's driven it several times. He recently rode in my Canyon and commented on how much quieter my truck was. Personally, I think I've done all I can, and the source is actually the shape of the rear pillars of the truck, which are creating some sort of turbulence.
I've spoken with a couple of people who have the extended, or crew cabs, and they don't hear the noise that I do. This reaffirms, in my mind anyway, that it's realted to the rear pillar, and since the longer cabs place the driver further away from it, it isn't as noticible.
GMCCanyon.info
Really how many people ride around pushing both buttons at the same time. If you think about it, it would be hard to do. I have to say since my dealer removed the electrical connections and re-greased them, I haven't the problem re-occur. Good luck and hopefully this problem will get resolved with-in our lifetime.
I have the 2005 extended cab 5 cyl, 2wd, and love it. With 60K on a 2 year old truck, obviously I do a lot of highway driving. My only issues have been a fluke O2 sensor back under warranty, and a dash panel that twice now in 2 years, has lit all up when I started it, concerning me, then I shut the car off, turned it back on and gone. I change oil when it says to, no more frequent (which scared me for a while), have not yet replaced anything other than tires, and swapped out for a K&N air filter, and I consistently get 22 mpg. No fuel filter yet, no premium, no additives. I'd say my highway is up towards 25, for trips, and recorded once as high as 27 for a very smooth 5 hour trip.
When you say the electric clips on the bottom of the control module, are you talking the control switches that are located on the arm rest of the door?
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate your input.
Justin
Thanks,,,
I would have been happier if it just blew a fuse.
We can all be thankful GM doesn't build airliners.