Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Duramax Diesel Questions



  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    We just went through a battle with Ford on warranty of the fuel system on an 06 F-450.
    The biodiesel gummed up the injection pump and they basically had to disassemble the entire fuel system and clean it. When the smoke cleared in the battle, the dealer finally warrantied the repairs.

    Now, it hasn't been determined that the cause of the problems were biodiesel, poor filtering from the fuel company or some other contaminates in the fuel system.
    But since the vehicle was running biodiesel from the time we received it, we can't imagine that it was any other contaminates.

    On the other hand, we have several 05 F-350's, that are running B-20 without any problems at all.

    Also, be aware that if you are in an area with low temps in the winter, biodiesel gels at relatively high temps.
    B100 gels at considerable higher temps than diesel, while B20's gel point is much closer to diesel's gel point.

    The biggest thing with biodiesel, as was pointed out, is to make sure the filtering system of where you are getting it and of the vehicle's is sufficient.
  • lukewatlukewat Member Posts: 2
    I have had some serious issues with my new 2007 duramax and the exhaust. I put 1000 miles on it before going on a road trip pulling my 14,000 lb fifth wheel. the check engine light came on 4 times. 3 out of for times the code came back as an exhaust issue and once as a turbo/intake problem. It left us on the side o the road twice and is still 2 states away as GM engineers try to figure out why 12 codes keep coming up and the computer is in permanent fail mode. Also the exhaust filter will not regenerate.
  • ctjimctjim Member Posts: 1
    my truck keeps getting a p2228 baro pressure sensor low voltage code. the truck has no modifications to it. what could be causing this to happen is it possible that the baro pressure sensor is bad? or could it be a maf or egr thats causing the problem. the problem seems to happen when its hot outside about 80*f or better, and it doesn't happen all the time. any thoughts would be great.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Do you have access to a scanner?
    If so, what values does it show for the baro sensor?
    What altitude are you at?

    You need to make sure that the BARO sensor is showing the correct values.
    Causes for it to go out of range are broken wires, disconnected connector or a bad sensor.
    Check the voltage to the White/Black wire on the connector. It should show 5V, does it?
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    I have my injectors, pump, fuel filter and fuel lines replaced. Try the new stepped filter from the dealer also. I think they are two micron and the others are five. They said the fives are scratching the injectors. Also they said my fuel lines are collapsing under surge. Try that also before going to the injectors. Maybe bad diesel, so try a different station for a month. My bill came to 9k and took them almost 3 weeks to fix.
  • smfitzge1smfitzge1 Member Posts: 1
    2001 Duramax Allison Tranny-119,000 miles. My truck started with problems that sound just like this. When I unhooked the trailer from my truck it would run fine. Top speed while towing would fall to 25mph and the low fuel light would come on along with service engine soon light. It started as intermitten problem and got worse. I would shut the engine off and restart and it would run for a few miles then again power would not be there. I was evacuating my horses from a Cat 4 hurricane and that is when I couldn't go any faster then 25mph and it was floored! I drove a long ways at 25mph with 3 horses in the trailer and a hurricane chasing us! After the storm, I took it in and they replaced all of the fuel injectors. Then all was fine for about 10,000- 15,000 miles then the injectors went out again. This time they replaced one bank of injectors and fuel supply hose. Then all was fine for about 150 miles. This time it wouldn't even run without a load. It was rattling worse then it ever had in the past. Had no power, couldn't even pull it up on the flat bed trailer-four of us had to push it. Towed it back to dealer and they said one injector had failed. Replaced it and now I'll see how soon it will be before I'm stuck beside the road again. They couldn't tell me why the injectors failed only that the one injector was not getting proper voltage but all the others were. Said the wiring going to the injectors was fine. On a positive note the truck has an awesome Tranny-love that Allison. Unfortunately, I'm going to change to a Dodge so I can hopefully make it from point A to point B without breaking down.
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Have you gone to the stepped filter which is two micron? Mechanic told me the injectors get scratched with the five from Wix or Purolator. There is also a wiring problem were the harness goes over a bracket( not sure where, but there's a bullitin on it) that affects the injectors by rubbing thru the wiring case. I pulled my diesel tank out and found a loose part in the bottom, thought it was broken so put in new sending unit. Not sure if it made a difference. Replaced the fuel lines that were rubber because they said they were collpsing under load. Maybe thats why when we turn off the truck and restart it, the pressure decreases and it will run OK for a while. Have you put anything in the tank besides diesel, tran fluid, kero, gas, additives, bio, oil, cooking oil, that would make the lines fail? They also told me something about a Flash chip or card????? Took them almost three weeks to get mine fixed. Come to Maryland to Fitzgeralds, maybe they can fix it here now that they have experience. Jeff
  • psarpsar Member Posts: 1
    i, have 05 duramax has anyone had a problem with a humming noise around 1800 rpm. when driving you here the noise good around 60 mph. i had this problem since i had about 5000 miles. now i have 42000 miles, the dealer can't find the problem. any feed back will be most helpful.
  • jmdigiacomojdjmdigiacomojd Member Posts: 2
    We too have a new Duramax - 2007 HD. We left on a year long roadtrip pulling a 31' trailer after breaking it in with about 3,000 miles. The first code was after pulling up a steep grade - turbo air intake valve. That got adjusted and then just yesterday we got another CEL - this time for exhaust issues. The dealer is telling us its a computer problem with the EGR valve that puts the engine into limp mode. They said GM does not yet have a service bulletin for it yet -- that we should go on and just either toggle the engine on/off if it happens again -- or pull the fuse -- or disconnect the battery. Sounds like lame advice. Did you get any further help with this issue?
  • lukewatlukewat Member Posts: 2
    was your truck built after January 1 2007. It sounds exactly like our problems. our first code was an exhaust code. By limp
    mode , do you mean the truck went into limited power mode? Ours would still run but had no power. We got the same lame responses and GM engineers could not figure it out. We left our truck in Nebraska and got it back 4 weeks later without any answers but it works now. They ended up changing out the exhaust filter (its in the first cat on the exhaust) and we have not had an issue since but we have nit pulled our fifth wheel again yet. An interesting note is that the info center never said the filter was dirty.
  • jmdigiacomojdjmdigiacomojd Member Posts: 2
    Yes, it's the new deisel. And yes, it had limited power (never could get out of third gear). Did they tell you anything about getting the code again and clearing it if you did? We just pulled another 500 miles since we got it back and it worked fine -- fingers crossed...
  • sullyaksullyak Member Posts: 30
    I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax Diesel. I live in Maine and was planning to do my first oil change. The manual says to use CJ-4 rated oil only and I cannot find a CJ-4 rated synthetic oil. Does anyone have particular recommendations? Also, is it ok to run 5w-40 year round? The guy at NAPA told me that running a synthetic 5w-40 year round is better than the 15w-40 recommended by chevy.

  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    5W40 indeed offers a wider operating range, that's no problem. But CJ-4 absolutely must be used, as it was formulated to be used with ULSD, while CI-4 is not.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • woodbwwoodbw Member Posts: 1
    Is the noise only while the engine is cold, first mile or so. If it is it may be your cooling fan which uses hydraulic clutch which will spin your fan when first started. Mine is very load for the first block or so on cold mornings "changes with RPM". My Ford F350 did the same before my GM.
  • cth05hdcth05hd Member Posts: 1
    Recently had PS pump fail, impellor shaft inside pump broken according to dealer. Dealer also said it was due to my having 265's instead of the factory 245 size tires on truck. Is this enough of a difference in tire size to create pressure difference inside pump that would cause such a break?
  • jalojalo Member Posts: 3
    will loose power will not go over 2000rpm can stop let it sit for 15 minutes or so has normal power only happens somtimes.even when put in park still wont rev over 2000rpm
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Change fuel filter. Make sure it's a 5 micron and not bigger. The new blue ones from GM. Did you use any Biofuel or biodiesel? Did you use any additives to try to clean up the injectors? Maybe tranny fluid? If filter doesn't work, maybe the fuel pickup/pump in the tank has gone bad. Then check for collapsed fuel lines. That's what happened to mine. Maybe from the additives. Jeff
  • jalojalo Member Posts: 3
    changed the filter and cut the filter open did not look that bad .no other fuel has been ran in truck except diesel at local stations.did notice after driving hoses comming off of filter are both colapsed . the hoses are very soft ,to me it looks like a defect in the hoses
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Could have been just bad diesel. Is the station you normally use a Shell or Exxon or is it a discout gas dealer? Sometimes their diesel isn't top quality. I didn't but you can get custom lines of hard plastic and not the soft rubber. That should fix the problem but do get the better blue filter from the local GM dealer. Jeff
  • sullyaksullyak Member Posts: 30
    Two questions that I would appreciate help with.

    1. I have a new 2500HD duramax diesel. I checked my oil at 3,000 and noticed it was very black. I changed it even though the computer said it wasn't needed. After only 500 more miles the oil is black again(not as black as the original). Is this normal for a diesel? It is my first one so I wasn't sure.

    2. I live in Northern Maine. When should I install the cold weather radiator cover that came with the vehicle? I am already noticing a drop in fuel mileage that I think is due to cold weather. Will the cover improve this?

  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    I would put it on below 32F. If you see temp go too high, take it off. Are you using your block heater? Have the oil tested to see if fuel is getting in. Maybe fuel not combusting completely and getting into oil system. Heard that with Bio so maybe diesel also. Jeff
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Black oil is nothing to worry about with the new diesels. The oil in my 2005 Cummins is black in 24 hours after an oil change. It's a result of the programming used to control emissions, and the new motor oils (CJ-4) are designed for this.

    You can use your winterfront when the temperature is consistently below 32°F, but definitely when below the teens. Make sure you don't block the intercooler, though.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • n75v111n75v111 Member Posts: 243
    Can anyone provide insite to how extensive GM Duramax Turbo Problems may be?
    I just read in another site post that on a 2007 Silverado with less than 4000 mi GM decided A New Turbo installation was required and to do that they have to pull the cab completely off the unit.

    I have an 08 2500HD LTZ 4X4 CC on order with TPW of Dec 10.
  • builderbillbuilderbill Member Posts: 7
    I've had my 07 for a couple of months now, and it had that "ticking" noise from day one. It's intermitent and doesn't seem to be causing a problem. I've crawled under it while running to see if I could here where it was coming from, but haven't been able to see or here anything pinpoint? It doesn't sound like anything metalic, more like a fan or belt noise. Will keep you posted if it develops into something worse, please do likewise.

  • bilburbilbur Member Posts: 3
    Sorry to say that your problem is not uncommon. There is a check valve (pressed into) the injection pump body that leaks and fuel drain back to the tank - especially if you are parked on an incline. Priming the pump will solve the problem if you want to always open the hood. Otherwise, the cast body replacement is about $700 when out of warranty. The problem is worse if you park 'nose up'. :sick:

    The cold temperature takes longer for the fuel pump to get fuel to the injection pump.

    There is a bulletin on this so the Service Department is just stroking you.
  • bilburbilbur Member Posts: 3
    Just replied to this in message #77

    A leaking check valve in the injector pump body lets fuel drain back to the tank.

    Cold weather makes priming the injection pump harder and takes longer.

    Priming works. Replacing the cast part on the injection pump - out of warranty - $700
  • bilburbilbur Member Posts: 3
    Just a comment: I really expected my Duramax run for a long time without any major problems.

    First set of injectors replaced at 36,000 miles - one stuck open and others leaking into the pan.
    Second set of injectors replaced at 78,000 miles - same complaint.
    Third set of injectors replaced at 113,000 miles - black smoke and lousy mileage.

    Normal mileage about 17.5 to 20 and 12 to 14 with a 8,000 lb hay trailer and 800 pounds in the bed.
  • lkmcclunglkmcclung Member Posts: 1
    I am getting more frustrated. My check engine light came on so I took the truck to a diesel shop. They indicated three injectors were showing bad, and at that time indicated about the 200,000 mile, 7 yr warrenty. I then took it to a dealer who found nothing in the codes and said the engine was fine. A week ago I too the truck back to the same dealer because the check engine light came on again. It was a glow plug controller. At that time they indicated there was a return rate problem and that my injectors looked like they will be replaced. I took it to another dealer because I wanted to get it fixed sooner. The new dealer said it wasn't a return problem, but a spray problem, and the injectors were not covered by warrenty.

    What do I do. One time yes and another time no!!

    I do get some smoke at ideal some times and engine running not so smooth

  • estakaestaka Member Posts: 11
    How do I reset my oil change light on my 2002 duramax?
  • 01rado01rado Member Posts: 6
    my 01 silverado resets by turning the key on and pumping the gas pedal to the floor three times,this all has to happen in 5 seconds,don`t start the engine turn the key on floor the gas three times if you have it reset the change lite will flash next time you start the engine,then should go out,my buddys 05 resets the same way
    we both have the 5.3 im sure the diesel should be the same
  • estakaestaka Member Posts: 11
    Did just that and worked like a charm. Thanks
  • estakaestaka Member Posts: 11
  • wyocowboywyocowboy Member Posts: 1
    I need some help and this seems like a prett knowledgeable place. I recently purchased an 03 GMC 2500 with the Duramax. We had a cold snap recently but I didn't know that my Duramax had a block heater installed (by the manufacturer) so I didn't plug it in. The next day I went out to start it, it ran for about 3 secs. then died on me and I haven't been able to start it since. The starter cranks but the engine won't fire up. I primed the fuel filter and fuel leaked out after the first pump so it doesn't seem that the filter is gummed up. Any suggestions before I go through the trouble of swapping out the filter? Thanks.
  • pinball1pinball1 Member Posts: 1
    I have lost most of my power and the engine service light comes on. Two fault codes are stored in the computer P0207 and P2146. Does any one have any information on trouble shooting this problem. It is the holidays so I cannot find an open GM service dept. I believe that the first code indicates a problem with the injector or circuit to injector #7. I believe when that happens the whole bank is shut down. If I disconnect that injector will the fault clear if the injector is the problem and hoe can you check the electrical of the injector? I have a performance tuner that gave me these codes and says I can use it to reset them. I did this once to see if it was just a momentary problem but the fault and poor running of the vehicle are still there. Thank you Wayne
  • akmarshakmarsh Member Posts: 5
    Last winter I was having loss of prime problems with my 2003 GMC 3500 Duramax and the filter was changed twice. The 2nd time I brought it into the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong but recommended using the product GM Diesel Fuel Conditioner and since I treated my fuel I haven't had any problems since but this winter it is in a heated garage.
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Change the filter anyway. Use the blue GM filter with the stepped sides. It is a three micron I believe. Then plug the heater in too and try that. I heard if you're parked on a hill its bad too but that hasn't happened to me. Jeff
  • grrdgrrd Member Posts: 1
    Are you still having issues with your exhaust? We've had our '07 GMC Sierra duramax for 4 months (bought new off the lot) and have had it in for repairs 2x and still having exhaust sensor codes coming up - the GM says the wrong sensor was installed and will replace it (10 days to get part) but for now we have very little power and bad mileage. Catalyst regenerate code keeps popping up too. Also the air intake gets plugged up with snow/slush but when we put the winter cover on like GM suggested the engine overheated going 60m/h in minus 6* after 1 hour of driving (truck bed empty, no trailer). Check engine light has come on more times than we can count and we've done everything they've told us to do but the truck seems gutless, can't seem to find the power we paid for. Did we get a :lemon: or is anybody else having these issues?
  • jalojalo Member Posts: 3
    three times to the dealer and now its fixed .i noticed the fuel lines at filter collapsed when power was lost all pointed to fuel tank. dealer pulled tank said dirt in tank not covered by warranty to replace module unit and clean tank about 600$ 300$ to clean tank so i went and took the tank and cleaned it my self when i got the tank back to my shop i noticed the debree was rust and also noticed top ring around module was rusted and short tube comming down was rusted i think the seal at top of tank was allowing moisture to enter top part of tank i have talked to gm several times and the owner of the dealer and now it look like a warranty issue
  • countryguncountrygun Member Posts: 1
    Have you had any luck with clearing the codes and if so what did you have to do?


  • michelstjmichelstj Member Posts: 5
    I purchased a 2004 sierra 2500 6.6 duramax in June 2007. It was in very good condition with 60,000km. Within two- three weeks I had what sounds like the same problem that you are having. The motor starts to knock, it loses all power, engine light comes on and when checked with my diagnostics machine it shows the p2146 code. This problem has occured about five times so far. Sometime it has started running good after stoping and restarting the motor, and sometimes it has taken a couple of hours.
    The shop says they can't find the problem.
    The more I look for other people with this problem on the net the more I'm starting to believe this is a fairly common problem. And a problem that gm should be taking care of at there cost.
    I'd like to stay in touch with you. My email is [email protected]
    Let me know how things are going
  • becca869becca869 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same error codes on my 05 Duramax on several occasions- usually after hauling. You can reset them but you're not fixing the issue. With my truck, the dealership mechanic noticed some evidence of arcing and after further investigation, determined that one of the injector wire's coating had rubbed off and when the truck was at certain orientations (hauling a heavy trailer) it caused it to arc, throw error codes and put the motor into "limp-home mode." He put half a section of heater hose around the wire in question and it hasn't happened since. Good Luck!
  • gesj5gesj5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All, I'm new here. Just got an 06 GMC 2500Hd sierra w/duramax. I'm looking for info on 2 things:
    1- where is the fuel filter located and how do i go about changing it? OEM replacement or after market?
    2- Is there a factory installed block heater on this model? where do i look for it?
    Any help appreciated. Thanks
  • michelstjmichelstj Member Posts: 5
    There's a gm bulletin (05-06-04-047b). This describes how to repair a common problem with 2004-2005 gmc sierra with Duramax diesels that have reoccuring cylinder bank shut down TDCs p2146 or p2149. It says to repair the injector connectors and install the injector harness support kit.
  • michelstjmichelstj Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2004 sierre 2500 duramax. I bought it in June 2007 with 60,000km on it. It has a reoccuring problem of the engine light going on, loosing all power and knocking. This has happened to me about 5 times so far. The engine will return to running normal sometimes after stoping and restarting the engine once or somtimes restarting the engine many time over many hours. The computer shown a P2146 code. The diesel mechanic at a gm dealer could not find the problem but did let me know about a gm bulletin that says to replace the harness on an injector and check for exposed wires as a result of rubbing against another component. I don't feel that this could be the problem because if there was a short or a break on a wire in the harness why can I drive my truck 1000km many km of which are in the bush and not have the problem occur?? I'm I wrong??
    Can anybody help?
    When in "limpmode" (when this problem is occuring) is it safe to drive the truck? It will only go about 20km/h
    If the shop will perform the work on the bulletin, should it be covered under warranty?
    Thank for any help.
  • michelstjmichelstj Member Posts: 5
    How many km's have you put on your truck since he fixed the wire? Just curious as to wether or not that truly fixed the problem. Because I have the same problem and there has been about 2500km of driving from one occurence to the next.
    Do you know if its safe to drive in the "limpmode"
  • rv_gypsyrv_gypsy Member Posts: 1
    I need to find out step by step how to replace the fuel filter on my 01 silverado 2500hd diesel crew cab. Please help.....
  • iwantadiesel1iwantadiesel1 Member Posts: 1
    i looking into buying my first diesel truck but am doing my research first and it seems that the GM's are having quite a bit of trouble and I and having second thoughts about even getting a diesel, i won't buy a ford so thats out of the question, any advise on wether to buy one or not would be really helpful!!!
  • dupeduramaxdupeduramax Member Posts: 4
    I bought my first diesel about 6 months, 12,000 miles ago. I wont be driving a gasoline truck anytime soon it great. I got a 2001 Chevy with 134,000 miles on it. Runs great havent had any problems with it, mileage is great, power is there when you need it. If you are in the market for a diesel, I would recomend the Duramax. Gm did have there problems with leaky injectors, but they now have a 7 year 200,000 miles warrenty on them ( for leakage) on the 01, an 02 models I believe.
  • lilcorkylilcorky Member Posts: 6
    Ever notice that 2000 thru 2002 side molding went clear to the front of the back tire? I think that looks tacky. I would like to add some. However they don't have a piece of molding to fit. One could be cut down I guess. Or I know some trucks have no molding. Could the molding be cut straight enough to not look bad? What would you cut it with?
  • lilcorkylilcorky Member Posts: 6
    I didn't notice my poor message writing till I read it later after it was too late to post. What I was tring to say the molding on the 2004 thru 2006 looks incomplete. Have any of you added the extramolding towards the back tire on the bed? How did you do it if you did.
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