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Caravan/Voyager Brake Issues

I have a problem and not sure how to fix it. I am trying to change my front disc pads on my fan and my top bolt on the caliber is stuck. I can not break it loose. I have tried wd-40 and motor oil and left both sit on for a couple of hours and tried again still nothing. Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to break it loose? I would greatly appreciate any help.

Thank you



  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    WD40 really isn't a rust penetrant. Try PB Blaster or something similar. Also, as long as there isn't a rubber sleeve over the bolt, try heating it with a propane torch and then spraying it with the rust penetrant. Let it cool and go through the whole cycle again. You can also try hitting your rachet with a hammer to provide a shock that might just begin to break it loose.
  • vanpovanpo Posts: 3
    I have '92 T&C, in very good condition despite showing 208,000 miles. The ABS has failed shutting down the power brakes. I am afraid Chrysler would charge more to repair it than the van is worth. I plan to remove the ABS components and replace them with non-ABS parts from a local salvage yard.
    Has anyone done this procedure? If so, please provide
    some details.
    TYVM, Vanpo
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    I think, but am not sure, that the Bendix 10 ABS pump and other parts are covered by a lifetime warranty, no matter how old the vehicle. Of course, the fine print may mean that other parts required to complete the work may cost you, but the pump itself would be covered by the warranty.
  • vanpovanpo Posts: 3
    Thanks for your information, I will check it out.
    However, I do not wish to spend over $200 on a fix and
    regardless, I doubt if Chrysler will settle for that.
    Therefore I still want more information on converting
    the ABS system to non-ABS. The salvage yards are full
    of non-ABS wrecks ('91-'93)and I can get the main components for less than $100. I just need some guidance on how to install these parts so that the hookup is proper. I would like to get a brakeline diagram showing the line routing and hookup to the "combination valve".
    Thank you for any advise/information you can supply.
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ... salvage parts is certainly feasible. Most of the components should bolt right in. Although a good source for the brakeline diagram would be the factory service manual, you may have to get lucky to get one off eBay. However, proper routing is not a big issue. You may have to get a tubing bender and a flare tool in addition to generic brake line lengths, but that is not expensive.

    Remember, the brakes are critical. Please put in the time and effort to do it right.
  • vanpovanpo Posts: 3
    I have picked up a master cylinder (with a vacuum booster)
    and the associated switch block. I already have the tools. At 75 years age, I am not as ambitous to use them as I once was. Hopefully, I can finish the job for $150 total(parts). My experience with complex items of this nature is that they don't get better as the car ages. For that reason I want to simplify the system. I did locate a diagragm in an online subscription of a service manual for the '92 T&C (ALLDATA/AutoZone). Vanpo
  • The Haynes manual for the 2005 Grand Caravan does not release until February 2007. Chilton doesn't have one either. The dealship suggests I order a shop manual for $50 (which would be nice but I need to finish the brake job before the manual would arrive).

    Obviously brakes are not rocket science. However, caliper torque settings would be nice. Does anyone have a link to an online reference for changing brake shoes and discs for a 2005 Dodge Caravan? Or even just the torque settings and words of advice?
  • diydiy Posts: 1
    The rear brake lines from the ABS to the back need to be replaced because they have rusted through. I discussed this with the two dealers. One says the brake line are special order. The other says the line is roll steel and must be fabricated. Estimates are $400 and $600 respectively.

    At first it appears to be an easy job of unbolting the lines at the ABS unit to the back axle. But after a second look,the ABS support bracket is in the way.

    What is involved in removing this bracket?
  • What is the proper way to remove rear drums on a 2001 caravan? What size bolts are used to remove the drum?
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    Hi ,
    I believe the (2) bolt holes in the drum face will accomodate a M8x1" (metric fine)in use with a flat bar puller where a large centre bolt pushes the drum away from the centre hub. The centre of the drum may be seized so high heat and penetrating fluid may be required (drill holes through the drum around the centre hub if disposing)to break the grip.On the backside of the drum plate remove the oval rubber seal and access the star wheel with a slot screwdriver turning the adjuster down to pull in the brake shoes to create a clearance between the shoes and inside drum. The inside parking brake cable may be slightly in the way so use a flashlight to manipulate the adjuster.
    When replacing make sure the drum is clean and spread high heat anti-corrosion compound to ease any future drum removal
  • Yes the bolts are M8 X 1.25 threads and I would use at least 2" bolts. Thanks for your help. With these bolts you can get away without releasing the brake cable.
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    The 2 threaded holes on the face of the drum can accomodate a puller being secured by 2 bolts. The depth of the holes or the thickness of the drum (face)is about 1/8"(4 threads)deep. Make sure the length of the bolts will at least exceed the thickness of the drum (face)and the thickness of the puller's arm itself. Attaching the bolts too short into the drum could easily stip the thread holes - rendering it un-pullable.
  • Hi All -

    I have a 2000 Grand Caravan with a pesky ABS light that keeps coming on.. It is only after you drive the car a little and seems to reset itself after turning the car off... It has only 85,000 miles on it and to be honest I am not happy with it... I had it in to put in a new transmission (YES IT JUST DIED ON THE HIGHWAY 200 miles from home) In the dang thing and at that time they told me that it would need a new ABS pump.... At a cost of an other 1000 dollars... I have since been driving the Van with no reall braking issues other than no ABS... But would like to get it fixed as we will be holding on to it for a while longer...

    First question is Being a motor head of sorts, Is it possible to do the work my self? If so are there any manuals out there to make it easier?

    By looking at it it seems rather point blank easy bolt on... And then Bleed... Of couse it would need a change of break fluid... :D

    Any body done this out there???
  • My 2006 Chryler minivan had to have its disc brakes turned at 12500km. I thinkits way too early to have this done already. Symptoms were shaking/pulsating brakes.
    Is there any recall on this or is there an issue chrysler knows about? Thanks
  • taffyh33taffyh33 Posts: 1
    My parking hand brake on my voyager will not hold. All cables are in good order and so are the brakes themselves. The brake lever will ride all the way up and cables do tension however I can nott find any way of adjusting them so they tension enough to hold the car. Help please!!!
  • I have a '92 Grand Caravan LE, 171,000 miles. Need to keep it running for another 6 months if possible.

    For several months now the antilock and Brake Warning lights have been coming on, then going off after driving . I was told by my regular mechanic that he thinks there is a small leak in the ABS system. Now both warning lights are on all the time and more frequently the brakes are really stiff and hard to apply. Les Schaub says they can't fix it, thinks the Power Booster isn't pressurizing the system. (Pre-'95, models have ABS and Power Boost tied into each other so I can't just shut down the ABS system)

    I know it is probably not worth fixing if it comes to over $1000, car is not worth that much. I would like to have an extensive diagnostic test done on it that I can trust. I'm hoping that if it is just the Booster or one component of the system (a pressure switch, transducer, proportioning valve, etc....) it would be a lot cheaper to fix. I'm afraid that if I take it to the dealer they will just replace the whole thing and charge me $3,000.

    My repair manual seems to indicate it might be just the hydraulic bladder accumulator (is that the same as the booster?)

    I live near Vancouver, WA so if you know any brake guys you can trust I would be eternally grateful.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The first thing you need to check is if you have the Bendix ABS system (I think but am not certain that your model year falls within the Bendix era). If you do it is my understanding that it is lifetime warranted via some sort of a recall or a TSB or some such. That said, the parts are extremely rare and most dealerships will refuse to work on them due to lack of parts.

    Best Regards,
  • As crazy as it might seem,I cant seem to get the old pads out.They have little springs that hold them in place.Ive took the springs out, but still cant getem out.There is a third bolt,much smaller than the two main ones.My question is Do I have to take this third bolt out to open the caliber wider,allowing me to pull the pads out?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    While I've never even seen the calipers of a Gen 2 Caravan, it sounds like you haven't separated the caliper from the bracket. Once the caliper (and their attached pads) are separated from the mounting bracket and rotor, the pads should slide out fairly easily (although you may need a medium to large screwdriver to help pry them off if they've been on there for a LOOOOONG time).

    Best Regards,
  • Today i'm getting my van serviced. '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager with 67,450 miles.

    My mechanic told me that my brake pads are brittle and need replacement and so do the rotors. He's installing new ceramic brake pads and new rotors. Not to mention cylinders in the back needing replacement (he said a broken back cylinder caused the brakes to overheat causing the pads to become brittle).

    All in all, he told me the cost of new parts and labor would hit me at $490.00. We've been going to this guy for years and never suspected being over estimated.

    Did I get good value on all the work done?

    What has everyone paid for similar work?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If you've never had your brakes done, then everything that he has suggested MUST be done. Have him put new (as opposed to rebuilt) rear wheel cylinders, the drums are probably still good to go, however, while he's in there, you might as well have him replace the shoes. Another thing that is an absolute must at this stage is to have the entire brake fluid system flushed.

    As far as cost, I do my own with top quality parts (usually NAPA) and can buy all of the parts for about $175 (front pads, front rotors, rear shoes and rear wheel cylinders). I have no idea what your guy is charging you for labor and the markup on parts.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
  • Well I live in San Francisco, so that correlates into a lot of "brake riding" down all these hills here. The last time I got work done were the brake pads in March but those got stuck and overheated. He's installed ceramic brake pads, new rear wheel cylinders today as part of the job, and the installation of new rotors because it seems as if mine have been reshaped due to the overheating.

    I have yet to pick it up later in the afternoon when he's done and I'll be sure to ask him what else was done. (Shoes, drums, and brake fluid)

    Thanks for the insight Shipo, I'll be back on later tonight to see the final job
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If you've gone through a set of pads since March, then you might want to consider new or rebuilt calipers as well as they might be sticking.

    If you are finding that brakes don't last very long on your van before the pedal starts pulsing while you're braking, you may be overtaxing the rotors, especially if you have the 14" wheels on your van. We have the sixteen inch wheels on ours and have the larger disks that came with the 15" and 16" wheeled vans, and even still, I was not getting anything more than twenty to thirty thousand miles per set (and as little as eight thousand on one set) before the pulsing in the brake pedal got so bad I couldn't stand it anymore. In desperation I bought a set of cross-drilled rotors (a little pricy but apparently worth it) and married them up with a set of ceramic pads. The good news here is that I now have 36,000 miles on that set and they're still nice and smooth.

    Best Regards,
  • Shipo

    Here's what went down:

    1. Brake Inspection
    2. Found front brake pads and rotors overheated
    3. Found right rear wheel cylinder rusted (piston stuck)
    4. Replaced front brake pads with ceramic premium pads
    5. Lube caliper sliders
    6. Replaced front brake rotors
    7. Adjusted rear brakes and parking brake
    T: $190.00 (2 hours)

    1. Replaced rear wheel cylinders
    2. Bleed complete system from master cylinder to calipers and wheel cylinders
    3. Fill system with new brake fluid DOT 3
    4. 1 Year warranty
    T: $95.00

    1. Replaced rear brake drums
    2. Adjusted rear brakes and parking brake
    T: No Charge

    -Ceramic Front Brake Pads, $105 (1)
    -Front Brake Rotors, $196 (2, 98 each)
    -Synthetic Brake Caliper Lube, NC (1)
    -Brake Fluid, NC (1)
    -Wheel Cylinders, 69.96 (2, 34.98 each)
    -Rear Brake Drums, $102 (2, 51 each)
    PARTS : $472.96
    LABOR : $295.00
    TAX : $39.02
    TOTAL: $796.98


    The van feels and drives brand new. Better safe than sorry? I feel bad for my pockets.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Well..., that's a pretty expensive brake job. Thorough but expensive. While the labor charges aren't out of line, especially for the Bay area, he stuck it to you on the parts.

    Best Regards,
  • lenwicklenwick Posts: 23
    how can a brake control be installed
  • Hi, I was replacing my old brake pads this morning but encountered a problem. I changed the pads but now the van won't slow down. Everytime I press the pedal it will go in all the way yet it won't slow down the car. I think it's a problem with the brake fluid system.

    I'd appreciate all the help,

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Sorry, there's waaaaay too many variables that could cause your problem to be able to diagnose what's wrong with your van without seeing it. I'm thinking that you need to take your car to a professional to have the problem uncovered.

    Best Regards,
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,151
    Yes, VERY tough to call from that description. Is there any resistance at all on the pedal? Did you need to disconnect any lines when you replaced the pads? Which did you replace? Front disc? Rear drum?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
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