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Caravan/Voyager Brake Issues



  • troyantroyan Posts: 9
    The Bendix ABS pump is all that is covered under a lifetime warranty by Chrysler... my mother-in-laws van had the same problem.But.. the thins is.. the only warranty the pump... not the bladder... Advance auto can get the part.. but it's attached to the master cylinder... and it retails for around $714. Without a new accumulator.. the pump will go bad in about 4-5 days. So... does anyone have any idea on HOW to replace just the accumlator? The local dealer said he could replace it at a cost of $330. for the part... and about $120 in labor.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Many folks with the ABS vans have decided that it is cheaper and less aggravation to simply junk the van and buy something else. Other folks have bought the parts (either from the dealer or from bone yards) to convert their vans to non-ABS. You seem to have the formula for effecting any necessary repairs.

    As for what your next step is, geez, I don't know. I suppose a lot depends upon the condition of the rest of your van and how much you want to spend.

    Best Regards,
  • troyantroyan Posts: 9
    Welllll... i can get an accumulator for abour $50 from a local boneyard.... but the question is.... HOW do you R and R it?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Sorry, can't tell you, I've never even seen one. I suggest that you buy a Shop Manual (you can usually find them on E-Bay for about $100). That will give you the EXACT R&R procedure.

    Best Regards,
  • What size socket do I need to loosen the caliper bolts?
  • mcokermcoker Posts: 1
    I replaced the brake pads on the front. Think I may have missing anti raddle clips?
    can you tell me how many clips, and where they should go for each side
  • fire2827fire2827 Posts: 2
    I bought a 93 dodge grand caravan. i replaced front pads n rear shoes with a new lft rear wheel cylinder. brake pedal still is not acting rite. replaced lft front caliper after taking van for test drive. no help to brake pedal. the brake pedal is hard n u have to use all ur leg muscles to push brake pedal down. the reason for replacing lft side caliper n wheel cylinder was cause rear shoes where down to the rivets n front pads where down to 1/32 to 0/32. bleed entire brake system starting from right rear n final :mad: ly ending up on the front left. the brake pedal is still hard n wont stop the van. if any1 knows wht my problem is please contact me at my head is spinning from trying to figure this out. ive talked to other mecs n 3 have said the acumulater n brake pump is bad n 3 have said the porpartionary valve is bad. PLEASE HELP
  • tkirk1tkirk1 Posts: 2
    Replace your front hydraulic flex lines to the calipers. They get old and collapse internally without any visible problem.
  • troyantroyan Posts: 9
    Check with Doge... the Bendix pump is covered with a lifetime warrenty.... that they really don't tell you about.... it retails for around $700.... the master cylinder retails for around $700 also... but THAT is NOT covered under warrenty.... you can find the pump right above the tranny.. drivers side... trace the plug to its source and dissconnect.. apply 12 volts across it... if it doesn't work... then it's shot... and doge will replace it for free.... they may also tell you that the accumlator is bad... i'd try to find one in a bone yard IF you can... I went thru 40 vans before i discovered one that had that particular braking system in it... Good Luck
  • fire2827fire2827 Posts: 2
    which pump are u talking bout is it the brake pump or the bendix pump? n is the plug in tht ur talking bout the bendix pump or brake pump? if io could id like to chat over the phone n when ur on the phone with me id like to try tht out so i know tht im doing it rite. please email me at ty for the help
  • diydodgediydodge Posts: 3
    I am having a problem with the ABS system on my 97 GC with 3.8 engine with 179K miles. Problem the ABS system will not activate on dry pavement. It will activate on gravel road. I have had the car to several dodge dealers. First dealer replaced master cylinder, power boost unit, new rotors, calipers and pads, rear brake work. Bleed brakes many times. Dealer did not fix problem refunded all of my money. Second dealer checked brakes system and stated "system works as designed".. So my problem is when I make a had stop the brake pedal is VERY spongy and goes very close to the floor. The brakes have been like this for at least 100K miles.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    While our 1998 doesn't have a spongy brake pedal, I seriously doubt that I can get the ABS to engage on dry pavement. I've heard other folks say the same thing, and I don't think I've ever heard anybody say they've ever gotten a Gen 3 van to engage the ABS on dry pavement either.

    Best Regards,
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,151
    Well, if the van's wheels are not locking up, there is no reason for the ABS to engage.

    I am impressed so far with the '98 AWD van this Spring as our winter snow pack slowly decomposes. I have crawled it through 4-6" of heavy slush up my rather steep driveway and it pulled though every time. I expected to be stuck a few times by this point. No problems with the ABS either, and I have thoroughly tested it. :D
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Agreed. I'm thinking that it would take a no-holes barred, drop the freaking anchor kind of stop to get these vans to engage the ABS on dry pavement. ;)

    Best Regards,
  • diydodgediydodge Posts: 3
    Hi Shipo and xwesx

    Did you miss the part of my original message about the spongy pedal??? When I do a "no-holes barred, drop the freaking anchor kind of stop" this van glides to a stop and the pedal is very close to the floor. I can also sit in my driveway and continuously press on the pedal and it goes to the floor very spongy.. I do a lot of highway driving and I must always keep a good distance from the car in front of me. I cannot find a dealer who will tell me what is wrong. I have taken a service manager to vans in his lot (in for repair) had him start the vans up and these vans DO NOT have a spongy pedal like my van. This is the manager who gave me back all of my repair cost because he did not know how to fix my van. I found this web site and figured I would give it a try here.. The ABS system does work on gravel roads. I think there is air in the ABS system but no one know how to bleed it.

    Thanks for your replys
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yup, that's why I said that mine doesn't have a spongy pedal.

    As for what on Earth could be wrong with your van, geez, there are lots of things. I'll list a few (starting with the easiest and most obvious first), many of which were hopefully covered by the shop that was working on it for you:

    1) Old brake fluid with lots of water (a brake system flush should cure this)
    2) Air in the brake lines (the above flush should have cured this too)
    3) Corroded rear wheel cylinders (assuming you have rear drum brakes)
    4) Poorly adjusted rear brake shoes (again assuming you have rear drum brakes)
    5) Corroded brake caliper pistons
    6) Old/weak brake hoses (i.e. the link between the metal brake lines and the wheels)
    7) Old or badly rebuilt master cylinder (you should never use rebuilt in this case)
    8) Brake fluid leak only under high pressure (near the braided seams by the firewall)
    9) Bad ABS controller/proportioning valve (I think it's the same unit on these vans)
    10) A cracked weld on the brake pedal mount (has the van ever been in an accident?)

    If all of these areas have been covered, let me know and I'll try to think of a few more. ;)

    Best Regards,
  • leemc1leemc1 Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my brake system. I got this vehicle used and when I got it it had a brake light on and the pedal had excessive travel but the brakes worked. Then I had a friend help me bleed the system and the light went out and the brakes were fine for a couple of days then the pedal started to travel again and the light came back.
    So I changed the rear shoes and cylinders. The rear passenger cylinder seemed to have a tiny leak. And it appeared as though the side hadn't been working properly for some time. I thought I had nailed the problem down, so I bled the system and found a couple of oddities. First air continues to get into the system, and second I can't seem to bleed the rear right side properly, sometimes I get large amounts of air and other times there is a very slow flow and the pedal will not drop to the floor when I release the bleeder. All the other 3 wheels bleed proper but it seems like there is a plug in the right rear line sometimes. And lastly, I can hear a drag of the shoes on the right rear drum when I apply the brakes. so I don't believe they are engaging when applied.
    I don,t have a repair manual for this particular vehicle so I don't know if it is equipped with abs or not.
    The front pads were almost new and calipers in good shape up front.

    thanks for any help.
    PS there appears to be no fluid loss.
  • dibbybdibbyb Posts: 1
    This may not help and you probably already got rid of the van, but I have had the very same problem you did except the brake boost went away (hard pedal) and didn't come back. I took it to a shop I always use and they replaced the whole brake module unit ($300 used). That didn't fix it so the replaced the boost pump ($250 used). So $900 later it worked - for two days. Now the brake warning lights are back on and the pedal is hard. When the brakes were working you could hear the pump work occasionally to pump up the air bladder bottle. So I take it back tomorrow but I don't know if they will fix it. If your's is still working, my advise to you is to peddle it fast.
    On the chance that you DID get yours fixed, could you tell me what fixed it?

    Ed Flaherty
    ed at
  • troyantroyan Posts: 9
    Firstof all... the boost pump is covered under a lifetime warrenty for the van... no matter how many times it has been replaced.. or how many owners it has... second it it sounds like it may be the accumulator is bad... or going bad..(leaking). Chrysler doesn't warrenty that... but they also don't tell you that they warrenty the pump either.if you can find a "good" acumulator in a yard.... it just screws out... but you have to use a strap wrench so as to not crush the casing. This shuld be done at a dealer... because there are steps they have to perform to bled the system. good luck with your van
  • alan38alan38 Posts: 2
    1999 Plymouth Gr Voyager 3.0L

    I have changed rotors and brake pad in April this year. Starting last week, there is sqeaky noise coming from the left front brake whenever I step on the brake. It last for a while and its gone. The brake pads and rotors are new and running less than 1,000 KM only.

    Any idea what is the problem? Any experience pls?

    Many thanks in advance.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Lots of variables here.

    Who did the work?
    Did they properly clean and lubricate the pins?
    What kind of pads did they use (i.e. semi-metallic, organic, ceramic)?
    Did the pads have anti-squeal backings on them?
    What were the conditions of the boots and the mini bushings/grommets that the pins slide through?
  • sparkyrxsparkyrx Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and have had the same problems. My vehicle is going back to the dealer for the third time; my previous mechanic was unable to find the problem either. I have had the master cylinder replaced, a pump (can't remember exact name), cylinders replaced. My vehicle goes 3 to 4 days, then I call them back and they say, "Nooooo! not again"

    Have you gotten your van fixed yet? If so let me know what was found out. I like and would like to keep my van (still paying on it, too). Thanks to you or others monitoring this Forum.
  • troyantroyan Posts: 9
    Again, the problem with the bendix pump/ accumulator system is that the accumulator goes bad... then the pump tries to keep up with demand.. overheats and just plan dies. Chrysler will replace the pump... but not the master cylinder or the accumulator... find a good used one at a bone yard... and use a strap wrench to get it off to NOT crush the casing... take THAT to the dealr and have them bleed out the system... i'm told it has quite a few steps to make it all work.... the van works great so far{fingers still crossed} and it cost me about $200 for all the labor and such...
    good luck with your van
  • handelsxhandelsx Posts: 2
    on the rear drivers side there is a junction box where the lines go to the back brakes the metal line rusted out. i bought 3/16" line one of the lines fit but the other line the fittings don't match up they are to small does anyone know the fitting size for them. i don't have the tow package it a v-6 thank you for any help
  • 727727 Posts: 9
    Hi, I own a -93 chrysler Grand Voyager, 3,3 with 300.000 km on the clock.
    Some time ago it began with a clicking sound from somewere out front
    whenever I touch the brakepedal. Even if it is done ever so gently!!
    The braking doesn't seem to be affected.But it is quite annoying.
    And something isn't right.
    Any suggestions?

    Best regards, 727 :)
  • Hi sparkyrx

    Sorry it took me so long to reply to you question.. NO I have not found a fix for my brake problem. The transmission broke big time in may and the car is now parked in the driveway. I think the junk yard is next stop.

    I replaced the 97 caravan with a 2008 Toyota Sienna.. Hope the brakes work better on this van....

  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    back untill 2000 or before chrysler in my opinion as i work at wap building vans has used minimum standard parts there front brakes wear out within one year the shaking is because thre rotors are now warped happens all the time from excessive heat i am doing one today that is why i am here as they changed the bolting system and the calipers my personal advise to anyone with a minivan put good new pads and rotors and save the factory ones to use while you get the old ones turned when needed i have a 2000&2006 and it happened to me within one year on both and i bought them both brand anyone buying a new van nevermind the bling bling tell the sales person to throw in a set of pads and rotors your going to need them....
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    your 97 just needs a sensor when it cools off it should work they are known for that as for your toyota when it breaks i hope you have a credit card
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Sort of to underscore what you wrote, our 1998 DGC Sport went through five sets of pads and rotors in its first 115,000 miles. During that time I used "top-of-the-line" NAPA and MOPAR rotors and pads, and the longest any one set lasted was 30,000 miles, while the "youngest" set that failed only had 8,000 miles on it, and as you stated, the failure mode was warped rotors.

    At the 115,000 mile mark I took the advice from a guy on another board that had switched to cross-drilled rotors and gotten good life out of them. Good thing I did. Why? Well, now with 168,000 miles on the van, the pads have about 3/8" of lining still intact and the rotors are just now starting to warp a bit causing a very minor pulsation in the brake pedal. I'll probably milk another 10,000 miles out of the and replace them with the exact same components.

    Best regards,
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