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Ford Ranger Brake Problems

buster15buster15 Posts: 38
edited December 2017 in Ford
The truck stops fine (most of the time)on occassion and its becoming more frequent just prior to a complete stop the pedal goes down with a mushy almost vibrating feeling and I keep rolling ahead 2-3 feet.
I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.

A scan shows everything ok.

Help please...
Thks for your advice.



  • The Chilton manual says:
    "Warning: Vehicles with 4-wheel anti-lock brakes require an anti-lock brake adapter(t90p-50-ALA) and jumper (T93T -50-ALA)in order to bleed the master cylinder and HCU. Failure to do so will trap air in the HCU unit, eventually causing a spongy pedal."
  • Dave, did you ever figure out your problem as you described?? Just happened to me exactly the same way, please respond

  • I have the same problem. The Ford dealer performed a PID monitor test of wheel speed sensors with all reading correctly. Ford Tech hotline stated that one sensor probably reading "dirty voltage" checked voltage readings each wheel speed sensor while braking. One wheel sensor was inconsistent with the others so they changed out speed sensor.($480)
    But... the condition is still there so I returned to Ford dealer. Now they say that they suspect wheel speed sensor, wheel hub tone ring is internal in front hub. They are unable to see ring itself so they what to replace hub. What do you think?
  • fordenvyfordenvy Posts: 72
    I have the towing package brakes with the 11 inch rotars.
    Cheap garbage, a brake job costs me 150 dollars every thirty thousand miles, and I do it myself. The rotars warp, the pads wear unevenly, and the bearings are shot each time. Someone told me it has to do with the ABS, and that it can warp your rotars and do a lot of damage. What do you think?
  • adam19adam19 Posts: 2
    i have a'90 ranger 2.9L v-6, my brake light and RABS light have always been on but i didn't notice a problem. now my front brakes are locked on, any idea how to fix this?
  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38

    Sorry for the late reply,

    After a new M/cylinder, ABS unit and a lot of down time, Ford diagnosed it as a faulty front left wheel sensor. Cost was $690 cdn. I noticed driving in snow is at times scary. When I picked up my truck a lady was in service with a 2003 Escape, same problem.
    This is my last Ford... ever... I am going European. Too bad for Ford and they can't figure out why their profits are down and their plant closures are more frequent.

  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38
    I got sucked for the front left wheel hub assy too. They build the sensor into the hub so it is non-replaceable. A tacky way to screw you for your $$$$. It seems to have fixed the problem by 97%. I suspect the other 3% is the right side starting to go.
  • fordgregfordgreg Posts: 1
    ok i can compress my calipers and drive my truck but as soon as i hit the brakes they stay, autozone told me that the rubber lines is the problem so i replaced them same problem. ? are my calipers bad? i can compress them with no problem, is it air in the line or could there be a hole in my lines somewhere else please i need help its all i have right now thanks
  • tukeanutukeanu Posts: 10
    I just got my '01 XLT 4x4 fixed. Same problem. They replaced the front left sensor, but not the whole hub. See my posting in the maintenance and repair thread. Reply #2469. I had shared info with Buster15 there in the past.
  • bad caliper same thing happened to me. i replaced caliper and they worked fine. The piston in the caliper is all messed up cant do much but replace it
  • adam19adam19 Posts: 2
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I agree.
  • gene23gene23 Posts: 2
    Hi Buster15 I also had the same thing happen on my 2000 Ford Ranger and I am going to take it into the shop. I was wondering if you have change out the other sensor or if your truck has improved . It sounds like the brake systems being more complex the mechanics just pick a maybe part and hope it will fix the problem Thanks for your posting I think it will save a lot of people some $$$. :lemon:
  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38
    Hey Gene,
    After alot of incompetence on behalf of some questionable mechanics, the right side has not been changed. I notice if I am slowing down @ 3-5 mph and crank the wheel hard right I get the same symptoms but not as bad. I am afraid to deal with the local dealer here as a lack of trust exists (they always lift 500-800 bucks from your pocket).

    The truck was not good on the snow this past winter so (hopefully) come fall I am going for a Santa Fe.
    By the way I got all my money back for the new ABS unit and Mastercylinder.

  • hack360hack360 Posts: 2
    Picked up a 'free' 92 as long as I could get it running as it was sitting for about a year. Couple parts later: drive line(busted off on freeway on ride home), battery(owner left dome light on, and fuel fill pipe(someone cut to siphon gas). SO, on to my issue. Brakes - When I drove the truck home, no problems with my brakes. I drove the truck for a few days, then I noticed a strong smell and smoke after a short drive from front brakes. Checked reservoir, low. Added more dot3 and pumped brakes POP brake line near gas tank broke due to corrosion(rust). Fixed the line, bled brakes and replaced pads. Still smoking if I drive it. weird thing is; they dont grab right when I start driving, it takes a little bit of braking before they slow me down. Is this a master cylinder issue? power booster? any other ideas?

    Thanx a ton
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad caliper, or bad rubber hose which can collapse internally and not let fluid flow backward which keeps the brake engaged.
  • hack360hack360 Posts: 2
    so i guess you mean bad caliperS since both of them are sticking? and what rubber hose are you talking about? the ones on the truck are separated. they come from steel lines and go to rubber at the wheel well. i dunno just seems funky to me.
  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38
    1999 Ranger XLT 4WD
    Can a pro verify if the front wheel sensor (is this the ABS sensor?) can be changed by itself without changing the whole wheel hub assy.

    If possible, is it a difficult job or can I do it in my driveway? The left sensor and hub was replaced now the right sensor may need it. Can someone direct me to a link showing the sensor in the hub?

    Thks :D
  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38
    Off to the Ford dealer this a.m., this p.m got a call, now the right ABS hub sensor is gone. Interesting fact the hub and sensor is now $300.00 Cdn down from $390.00 (genuine Ford parts). Must be down due to the high sales and turnover of wheel hub assy's.

  • I recieved my ranger in 2005 with it being an 02 model only having 18,000 on it. Excellent condition. Well, when i would hit the brakes, the steering wheel would shake. So, about a year and a half ago i bought new roders. Now it's shaking all over again. I don't know if maybe it's the calipers or something. I still have warrenty on it (extended service plan). ---also the brake pedal makes a spongy squeak like noise, but it's been doing that since i had it.
    AND i have to apply more pressure to the brake pedal to stop than i do in another ranger.

    I really would like some comments or suggestions. Right now it's at the dealership getting under warrenty aircondition service. But, I want to make sure they don't rip me off.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Vibration while braking is usually from warped rotors. If the truck is under an extended warranty plan was the brakes covered the first time you changed out the rotors a year and a half ago? I'm confused as you stated that you bought new rotors indicating that it isn't covered.

    You can ask the dealership to look at the front rotors and check for warping. They won't do any repair work until you authorize it especially if it isn't covered under the extended warranty. Sounds like the rotors are the problem.
  • Hey, yeeaa, it's stupid what happened. See, when I got new rotors at a Honda Dealership (because I had an employee discount), they installed the wrong size rotors. I needed 11 inch, they istalled 10 inch. So they slowly ruined my brake pads. Thats what ford found when I broung my truck to them. So, I brought my truck back to honda and they replaced both the rotors and pads for free because it was their mistake. It was pretty funny. But YAY my truckis back to normal. :)
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Guess that's what happens when you have Honda techs working on Fords. Glad everything worked out.
  • Hello eveyone newbie here needing some help. I replaced all the brakes, bleed, and re-bleed. The Brakes worked fine for about a week then NO BRAKES!!!! Well at least till I get all the way down on it. If I have to slam on brakes they go all the way down and start to grab hard and let go grab hard and let go(I thought I was going to nail the car in front of me). Anyway HELP ME Please!!!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My guess - you got air in the ABS system/pump.

    And the 'regular' bleeding procedures of opening the bleeders on each wheel will not do it.

    I'm afraid this is not a do-it-yourself procedure. You are going to have to take this to the dealer or a brake shop.
  • Sorry if this was discussed I did not find in search. My brake lines are falling apart. I can not find anyone selling my lines, I need help. My local parts store tell me they usually don't have the fitting even if I make up lines. really don't want the lines off that long with the abs,even if I plug the holes for a short period while installing the lines. Anybody find prefab lines? Thanks
  • Hi all,
    New to this forum. But so far it looks like the best place to ask my question.

    I just got a 02 Ranger 2whld. It has at least a 2in lift kit on it so, larger tires. I have noticed that when I turn hard to the right (not sure about left yet) going at a very slow speed when I go to brake I have none! I push the brake peddle down with no resistance until I'm fully extended then it will grab a little bit. I have almost hit the car in front of me twice now.
    The mechanic I took it to was thinking that because of the larger tires and same small brake pads that could be part of the problem. But now he's not 100% sure with the new info I just gave him.
    Anyone have an ideas on this? :cry:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Have you checked your brake fluid level? Sounds like you may have air in your lines. Larger tires will increase braking distance but not cause brake failure. You need to look else where. I wouldn't drive the truck in the condition its in.
  • Yes I checked the fluid level. It's fine. If it was air in the lines it would do it more often. Again its only after a sharp turn going 1-5mph. Makes parking lot driving a bit scary.
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