Ford Ranger Brake Problems

buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
edited December 2017 in Ford
The truck stops fine (most of the time)on occassion and its becoming more frequent just prior to a complete stop the pedal goes down with a mushy almost vibrating feeling and I keep rolling ahead 2-3 feet.
I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.

A scan shows everything ok.

Help please...
Thks for your advice.



  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    The Chilton manual says:
    "Warning: Vehicles with 4-wheel anti-lock brakes require an anti-lock brake adapter(t90p-50-ALA) and jumper (T93T -50-ALA)in order to bleed the master cylinder and HCU. Failure to do so will trap air in the HCU unit, eventually causing a spongy pedal."
  • frankxfrankx Member Posts: 2
    Dave, did you ever figure out your problem as you described?? Just happened to me exactly the same way, please respond

  • brutus1750brutus1750 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. The Ford dealer performed a PID monitor test of wheel speed sensors with all reading correctly. Ford Tech hotline stated that one sensor probably reading "dirty voltage" checked voltage readings each wheel speed sensor while braking. One wheel sensor was inconsistent with the others so they changed out speed sensor.($480)
    But... the condition is still there so I returned to Ford dealer. Now they say that they suspect wheel speed sensor, wheel hub tone ring is internal in front hub. They are unable to see ring itself so they what to replace hub. What do you think?
  • fordenvyfordenvy Member Posts: 72
    I have the towing package brakes with the 11 inch rotars.
    Cheap garbage, a brake job costs me 150 dollars every thirty thousand miles, and I do it myself. The rotars warp, the pads wear unevenly, and the bearings are shot each time. Someone told me it has to do with the ABS, and that it can warp your rotars and do a lot of damage. What do you think?
  • adam19adam19 Member Posts: 2
    i have a'90 ranger 2.9L v-6, my brake light and RABS light have always been on but i didn't notice a problem. now my front brakes are locked on, any idea how to fix this?
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38

    Sorry for the late reply,

    After a new M/cylinder, ABS unit and a lot of down time, Ford diagnosed it as a faulty front left wheel sensor. Cost was $690 cdn. I noticed driving in snow is at times scary. When I picked up my truck a lady was in service with a 2003 Escape, same problem.
    This is my last Ford... ever... I am going European. Too bad for Ford and they can't figure out why their profits are down and their plant closures are more frequent.

  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    I got sucked for the front left wheel hub assy too. They build the sensor into the hub so it is non-replaceable. A tacky way to screw you for your $$$$. It seems to have fixed the problem by 97%. I suspect the other 3% is the right side starting to go.
  • fordgregfordgreg Member Posts: 1
    ok i can compress my calipers and drive my truck but as soon as i hit the brakes they stay, autozone told me that the rubber lines is the problem so i replaced them same problem. ? are my calipers bad? i can compress them with no problem, is it air in the line or could there be a hole in my lines somewhere else please i need help its all i have right now thanks
  • tukeanutukeanu Member Posts: 10
    I just got my '01 XLT 4x4 fixed. Same problem. They replaced the front left sensor, but not the whole hub. See my posting in the maintenance and repair thread. Reply #2469. I had shared info with Buster15 there in the past.
  • kiyochan1113kiyochan1113 Member Posts: 1
    bad caliper same thing happened to me. i replaced caliper and they worked fine. The piston in the caliper is all messed up cant do much but replace it
  • adam19adam19 Member Posts: 2
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I agree.
  • gene23gene23 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Buster15 I also had the same thing happen on my 2000 Ford Ranger and I am going to take it into the shop. I was wondering if you have change out the other sensor or if your truck has improved . It sounds like the brake systems being more complex the mechanics just pick a maybe part and hope it will fix the problem Thanks for your posting I think it will save a lot of people some $$$. :lemon:
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Hey Gene,
    After alot of incompetence on behalf of some questionable mechanics, the right side has not been changed. I notice if I am slowing down @ 3-5 mph and crank the wheel hard right I get the same symptoms but not as bad. I am afraid to deal with the local dealer here as a lack of trust exists (they always lift 500-800 bucks from your pocket).

    The truck was not good on the snow this past winter so (hopefully) come fall I am going for a Santa Fe.
    By the way I got all my money back for the new ABS unit and Mastercylinder.

  • hack360hack360 Member Posts: 2
    Picked up a 'free' 92 as long as I could get it running as it was sitting for about a year. Couple parts later: drive line(busted off on freeway on ride home), battery(owner left dome light on, and fuel fill pipe(someone cut to siphon gas). SO, on to my issue. Brakes - When I drove the truck home, no problems with my brakes. I drove the truck for a few days, then I noticed a strong smell and smoke after a short drive from front brakes. Checked reservoir, low. Added more dot3 and pumped brakes POP brake line near gas tank broke due to corrosion(rust). Fixed the line, bled brakes and replaced pads. Still smoking if I drive it. weird thing is; they dont grab right when I start driving, it takes a little bit of braking before they slow me down. Is this a master cylinder issue? power booster? any other ideas?

    Thanx a ton
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad caliper, or bad rubber hose which can collapse internally and not let fluid flow backward which keeps the brake engaged.
  • hack360hack360 Member Posts: 2
    so i guess you mean bad caliperS since both of them are sticking? and what rubber hose are you talking about? the ones on the truck are separated. they come from steel lines and go to rubber at the wheel well. i dunno just seems funky to me.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    1999 Ranger XLT 4WD
    Can a pro verify if the front wheel sensor (is this the ABS sensor?) can be changed by itself without changing the whole wheel hub assy.

    If possible, is it a difficult job or can I do it in my driveway? The left sensor and hub was replaced now the right sensor may need it. Can someone direct me to a link showing the sensor in the hub?

    Thks :D
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Off to the Ford dealer this a.m., this p.m got a call, now the right ABS hub sensor is gone. Interesting fact the hub and sensor is now $300.00 Cdn down from $390.00 (genuine Ford parts). Must be down due to the high sales and turnover of wheel hub assy's.

  • rangergirlierangergirlie Member Posts: 4
    I recieved my ranger in 2005 with it being an 02 model only having 18,000 on it. Excellent condition. Well, when i would hit the brakes, the steering wheel would shake. So, about a year and a half ago i bought new roders. Now it's shaking all over again. I don't know if maybe it's the calipers or something. I still have warrenty on it (extended service plan). ---also the brake pedal makes a spongy squeak like noise, but it's been doing that since i had it.
    AND i have to apply more pressure to the brake pedal to stop than i do in another ranger.

    I really would like some comments or suggestions. Right now it's at the dealership getting under warrenty aircondition service. But, I want to make sure they don't rip me off.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Vibration while braking is usually from warped rotors. If the truck is under an extended warranty plan was the brakes covered the first time you changed out the rotors a year and a half ago? I'm confused as you stated that you bought new rotors indicating that it isn't covered.

    You can ask the dealership to look at the front rotors and check for warping. They won't do any repair work until you authorize it especially if it isn't covered under the extended warranty. Sounds like the rotors are the problem.
  • rangergirlierangergirlie Member Posts: 4
    Hey, yeeaa, it's stupid what happened. See, when I got new rotors at a Honda Dealership (because I had an employee discount), they installed the wrong size rotors. I needed 11 inch, they istalled 10 inch. So they slowly ruined my brake pads. Thats what ford found when I broung my truck to them. So, I brought my truck back to honda and they replaced both the rotors and pads for free because it was their mistake. It was pretty funny. But YAY my truckis back to normal. :)
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Guess that's what happens when you have Honda techs working on Fords. Glad everything worked out.
  • joshnaugustajoshnaugusta Member Posts: 2
  • joshnaugustajoshnaugusta Member Posts: 2
    Hello eveyone newbie here needing some help. I replaced all the brakes, bleed, and re-bleed. The Brakes worked fine for about a week then NO BRAKES!!!! Well at least till I get all the way down on it. If I have to slam on brakes they go all the way down and start to grab hard and let go grab hard and let go(I thought I was going to nail the car in front of me). Anyway HELP ME Please!!!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    My guess - you got air in the ABS system/pump.

    And the 'regular' bleeding procedures of opening the bleeders on each wheel will not do it.

    I'm afraid this is not a do-it-yourself procedure. You are going to have to take this to the dealer or a brake shop.
  • jerseyedjerseyed Member Posts: 1
    Sorry if this was discussed I did not find in search. My brake lines are falling apart. I can not find anyone selling my lines, I need help. My local parts store tell me they usually don't have the fitting even if I make up lines. really don't want the lines off that long with the abs,even if I plug the holes for a short period while installing the lines. Anybody find prefab lines? Thanks
  • runninghorserunninghorse Member Posts: 5
    Hi all,
    New to this forum. But so far it looks like the best place to ask my question.

    I just got a 02 Ranger 2whld. It has at least a 2in lift kit on it so, larger tires. I have noticed that when I turn hard to the right (not sure about left yet) going at a very slow speed when I go to brake I have none! I push the brake peddle down with no resistance until I'm fully extended then it will grab a little bit. I have almost hit the car in front of me twice now.
    The mechanic I took it to was thinking that because of the larger tires and same small brake pads that could be part of the problem. But now he's not 100% sure with the new info I just gave him.
    Anyone have an ideas on this? :cry:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Have you checked your brake fluid level? Sounds like you may have air in your lines. Larger tires will increase braking distance but not cause brake failure. You need to look else where. I wouldn't drive the truck in the condition its in.
  • runninghorserunninghorse Member Posts: 5
    Yes I checked the fluid level. It's fine. If it was air in the lines it would do it more often. Again its only after a sharp turn going 1-5mph. Makes parking lot driving a bit scary.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Check out the right front wheel hub ABS sensor.
  • runninghorserunninghorse Member Posts: 5
    I'll have my mechanic check that out. Thanks Buster15
  • runninghorserunninghorse Member Posts: 5
    Hey all,
    Ok. I got my brake problem fixed. Buster15 thanks for the heads up on the ABS sensor.
    But as it turns out thats not what it was. What happened was the brake pads were worn (of course) and due to the lift kit the caliper was was hitting the frame and not letting the brake grab like it should. So they replaced the pads and BAM I have brakes again.
    Just seemed so strange that it only did it when the wheel was turned all the way to the right. Not the left. But hey I'm happy. It's fixed.
    And to top it off. I took it back to the dealership I got it at. They did all that work and didn't charge me a thing. When they could have. It was sold AS IS. They even gave me a demo car to drive to work today.
    So I'll be telling everyone I know thats looking for a car to see these guys.

    Thanks for the help guys. :shades:
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Hey Runninghorse,

    Glad you got it all worked out. Keep the sensor in the back of your mind, from the Ranger and Escape people I have talked to the wheel hub sensors are a common problem. See my experiences in previous posts.

  • runninghorserunninghorse Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Dave. I will always keep the ABS sensor in mind from now on.
    I've always owned older trucks and didn't have to worry about all these new fangle gadgets. LOL :blush:
    Man for a couple weeks I was really wishing I had my 86 Bronco II back.
  • heinz1900heinz1900 Member Posts: 1
    Hey Buster15,

    I have a 2002 ranger xlt. I've been having for squeaking problems coming from my left front wheel. Based on the information i've been telling my buddies, it's been diagnosed as a brake pad problem. Yesterday while driving around my ABS light came on. I drove home and left it sit all day. This morning I came to work and the light was off. I have noticed that I have some excessive brake dust on my right front wheel but not my left where it's squeaking. Would the ABS light have come on due to the brake pad problem with my left front wheel or do you think it might be the wheel hub sensor as stated in your reply to runninghorse above. Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!
  • robert07robert07 Member Posts: 3
    Okay folks, I need some help.

    Two weeks back, I did a brake job on my truck (front and back). Shortly thereafter, I have developed a "moaning" noise coming from the front brakes after they warm up. It generally takes 10 minutes of driving and braking before it begins, and only occurs between 10 mph - 0 mph.

    When I worked on the brakes, I had the original rotors turned (for the first time), and replaced the old pads with new ceramic pads. At first, I thought it was coming from just one wheel (front left), so I swapped the left and right front rotors and pads to see what would happen. Now it appears to come from both front wheels.

    My guess is that the pads are crap ($43.00 from AutoZone), and when they heat up they moan against the hot rotors. I should have learned my lesson by now about buying parts (other than oil and filters) from stores like this.

    Oh, the truck brakes perfectly straight, so now problems there.

    Am I close on my guess?
  • gene23gene23 Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like you have a speed sensor problem that ties in with the abs system . You didn,t say but does it takes longer to stops ? Take it to a Tech and have them check the signal from each sensor my guess is that one or both signal will be weak . Just one of the problems on the Ranger . Hope that this helps .
  • robert07robert07 Member Posts: 3
    It doesn't take any longer to stop, in fact everything seems normal except for that "moaning" noise when the brakes heat-up. And, this noise only started after I replaced the pads and turned the rotors.

    The best way to explain the noise is like there's brake fluid between the pads and rotors (which there is none).
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Did you grease the pen slides on the pads? If not, this might be where the noise is coming from.

    You got ceramic pads for $43? I thought these were the most expensive pads made?

    Anyway, if you bought a 'heavy duty', hard set of pads, you might just have some noise from them. Long ago, I put a set of full metallic shoes on a Duster. In the last few feet of stopping, these brake shoes just screamed. Small children on the sidewalk would hold their ears. But they stopped the car very well!
  • robert07robert07 Member Posts: 3
    I'm not sure what "pen slides" are. Are those the two slides for each of the calipers?

    I think what I might try next is another set of pads before the rotors become scored. This time it's NAPA or the Ford dealer. Also, maybe not ceramic.

    Interestingly, when you look at these pads they appear to have metallic flakes in them (shiney and silver). Is that what ceramic looks like? I thought ceramic was a clear glass composite.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Yes they are shiny with metal looking flakes.

    $ 43.00 is a good price bought mine at napa for $ 65. I didn't bother to cut the rotor just slapped the pads on and spread that red stuff on the back of the pad that came in a squeeze tube and no noise for 2k miles.

    BTW, I have a 2wd Edge.

    Rather than the napa brand you might want to look specifically for Raybestos or Bendix ceramic pads.
  • cayjoecayjoe Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, just found this site, hope someone can maybe help me or lead me in the right direction. I have a 2001 4X4 Edge. The problem i am having with my brakes is that they pulsate. I have replaced the rotors, drums, pads and shoes but i still have the same problem. The weird thing is that they only start to pulsate at 42-43 mph. They dont do it when braking from a higher speed, but when i reach 42-43 they pulsate extremely bad and then it slowly fades with little pulsing coming to a stop(although you can still feel it somewhat). Any ideas?
  • pfaucetpfaucet Member Posts: 2
    Hello all
    I have rear abs. the abs light is always on. replaced sensor in differential. not the problem. if I keep my foot on the breaks then start the truck the light stays off till i let the break go. some times it will go off for 10 to 20 minutes. chilton book does not help for this year. cant find abs box or test lead. chilton says wire is orange/black. not under my hood. any advise would be great.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The brake fluid in the master cylinder is low.
  • pfaucetpfaucet Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your reply. fluid is @ proper level. need to find location of test lead for abs.
  • kozmocramer1kozmocramer1 Member Posts: 1
  • ryan77300dryan77300d Member Posts: 64
    I unfortunately own a 1990 ford ranger 2wd truck. While replacing the rear drums, neither would slide easily over the shoes, thus a sledge hammer was brought in. Now the entire rear axle is in a state of almost seizure, I'm assuming the shoes haven't retracted and are binding against the drums, or the drums are not seated squarely, despite dozens of heavy hits with a hammer. I've tried tightening the lug bolts down and they're at almost 200ft-lbs with the wheels still seized up.

    Would I have to adjust the shoes via the star-wheel, or are they self-adjusting, and will seat after a steady dose of RPM's, dropping the clutch and a slam into reverse?


    PS- All things considered, I'm actually serious about my suggested remedy
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I don't have much to say about this post.

    Because I think the Host will delete what I want to say, and, at least, send me a warning email, probably suspend me, if I would say what I want to say.

    Actually, rather than you 'unfortunately owning' a Ranger, it appears an unfortunate Ranger is owned by you, a person with a sledge hammer.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841

    But the cause of the problem could also be the solution. The sledgehammer that is. He should try to remove the drums using the exact method he used to install.
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