Calling Los Angeles-based car shoppers: Have you recently traded in (or plan to trade in) a car with negative equity (i.e. the amount you owe on your auto loan is greater than the car's value)? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 11/6 for details.
Ford Ranger Brake Problems
The truck stops fine (most of the time)on occassion and its becoming more frequent just prior to a complete stop the pedal goes down with a mushy almost vibrating feeling and I keep rolling ahead 2-3 feet.
I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.
A scan shows everything ok.
Help please...
Thks for your advice.
Dave
I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.
A scan shows everything ok.
Help please...
Thks for your advice.
Dave
Tagged:
0
Comments
"Warning: Vehicles with 4-wheel anti-lock brakes require an anti-lock brake adapter(t90p-50-ALA) and jumper (T93T -50-ALA)in order to bleed the master cylinder and HCU. Failure to do so will trap air in the HCU unit, eventually causing a spongy pedal."
Frank
But... the condition is still there so I returned to Ford dealer. Now they say that they suspect wheel speed sensor, wheel hub tone ring is internal in front hub. They are unable to see ring itself so they what to replace hub. What do you think?
Cheap garbage, a brake job costs me 150 dollars every thirty thousand miles, and I do it myself. The rotars warp, the pads wear unevenly, and the bearings are shot each time. Someone told me it has to do with the ABS, and that it can warp your rotars and do a lot of damage. What do you think?
Sorry for the late reply,
After a new M/cylinder, ABS unit and a lot of down time, Ford diagnosed it as a faulty front left wheel sensor. Cost was $690 cdn. I noticed driving in snow is at times scary. When I picked up my truck a lady was in service with a 2003 Escape, same problem.
This is my last Ford... ever... I am going European. Too bad for Ford and they can't figure out why their profits are down and their plant closures are more frequent.
Cheers,
Dave
After alot of incompetence on behalf of some questionable mechanics, the right side has not been changed. I notice if I am slowing down @ 3-5 mph and crank the wheel hard right I get the same symptoms but not as bad. I am afraid to deal with the local dealer here as a lack of trust exists (they always lift 500-800 bucks from your pocket).
The truck was not good on the snow this past winter so (hopefully) come fall I am going for a Santa Fe.
By the way I got all my money back for the new ABS unit and Mastercylinder.
Dave
Thanx a ton
Can a pro verify if the front wheel sensor (is this the ABS sensor?) can be changed by itself without changing the whole wheel hub assy.
If possible, is it a difficult job or can I do it in my driveway? The left sensor and hub was replaced now the right sensor may need it. Can someone direct me to a link showing the sensor in the hub?
Thks
Dave
AND i have to apply more pressure to the brake pedal to stop than i do in another ranger.
I really would like some comments or suggestions. Right now it's at the dealership getting under warrenty aircondition service. But, I want to make sure they don't rip me off.
You can ask the dealership to look at the front rotors and check for warping. They won't do any repair work until you authorize it especially if it isn't covered under the extended warranty. Sounds like the rotors are the problem.
And the 'regular' bleeding procedures of opening the bleeders on each wheel will not do it.
I'm afraid this is not a do-it-yourself procedure. You are going to have to take this to the dealer or a brake shop.
New to this forum. But so far it looks like the best place to ask my question.
I just got a 02 Ranger 2whld. It has at least a 2in lift kit on it so, larger tires. I have noticed that when I turn hard to the right (not sure about left yet) going at a very slow speed when I go to brake I have none! I push the brake peddle down with no resistance until I'm fully extended then it will grab a little bit. I have almost hit the car in front of me twice now.
The mechanic I took it to was thinking that because of the larger tires and same small brake pads that could be part of the problem. But now he's not 100% sure with the new info I just gave him.
Anyone have an ideas on this?
Ok. I got my brake problem fixed. Buster15 thanks for the heads up on the ABS sensor.
But as it turns out thats not what it was. What happened was the brake pads were worn (of course) and due to the lift kit the caliper was was hitting the frame and not letting the brake grab like it should. So they replaced the pads and BAM I have brakes again.
Just seemed so strange that it only did it when the wheel was turned all the way to the right. Not the left. But hey I'm happy. It's fixed.
And to top it off. I took it back to the dealership I got it at. They did all that work and didn't charge me a thing. When they could have. It was sold AS IS. They even gave me a demo car to drive to work today.
So I'll be telling everyone I know thats looking for a car to see these guys.
Thanks for the help guys. :shades:
Glad you got it all worked out. Keep the sensor in the back of your mind, from the Ranger and Escape people I have talked to the wheel hub sensors are a common problem. See my experiences in previous posts.
Dave
I've always owned older trucks and didn't have to worry about all these new fangle gadgets. LOL
Man for a couple weeks I was really wishing I had my 86 Bronco II back.
I have a 2002 ranger xlt. I've been having for squeaking problems coming from my left front wheel. Based on the information i've been telling my buddies, it's been diagnosed as a brake pad problem. Yesterday while driving around my ABS light came on. I drove home and left it sit all day. This morning I came to work and the light was off. I have noticed that I have some excessive brake dust on my right front wheel but not my left where it's squeaking. Would the ABS light have come on due to the brake pad problem with my left front wheel or do you think it might be the wheel hub sensor as stated in your reply to runninghorse above. Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!
Two weeks back, I did a brake job on my truck (front and back). Shortly thereafter, I have developed a "moaning" noise coming from the front brakes after they warm up. It generally takes 10 minutes of driving and braking before it begins, and only occurs between 10 mph - 0 mph.
When I worked on the brakes, I had the original rotors turned (for the first time), and replaced the old pads with new ceramic pads. At first, I thought it was coming from just one wheel (front left), so I swapped the left and right front rotors and pads to see what would happen. Now it appears to come from both front wheels.
My guess is that the pads are crap ($43.00 from AutoZone), and when they heat up they moan against the hot rotors. I should have learned my lesson by now about buying parts (other than oil and filters) from stores like this.
Oh, the truck brakes perfectly straight, so now problems there.
Am I close on my guess?
It sounds like you have a speed sensor problem that ties in with the abs system . You didn,t say but does it takes longer to stops ? Take it to a Tech and have them check the signal from each sensor my guess is that one or both signal will be weak . Just one of the problems on the Ranger . Hope that this helps .
The best way to explain the noise is like there's brake fluid between the pads and rotors (which there is none).
You got ceramic pads for $43? I thought these were the most expensive pads made?
Anyway, if you bought a 'heavy duty', hard set of pads, you might just have some noise from them. Long ago, I put a set of full metallic shoes on a Duster. In the last few feet of stopping, these brake shoes just screamed. Small children on the sidewalk would hold their ears. But they stopped the car very well!
I think what I might try next is another set of pads before the rotors become scored. This time it's NAPA or the Ford dealer. Also, maybe not ceramic.
Interestingly, when you look at these pads they appear to have metallic flakes in them (shiney and silver). Is that what ceramic looks like? I thought ceramic was a clear glass composite.
$ 43.00 is a good price bought mine at napa for $ 65. I didn't bother to cut the rotor just slapped the pads on and spread that red stuff on the back of the pad that came in a squeeze tube and no noise for 2k miles.
BTW, I have a 2wd Edge.
Rather than the napa brand you might want to look specifically for Raybestos or Bendix ceramic pads.
I have rear abs. the abs light is always on. replaced sensor in differential. not the problem. if I keep my foot on the breaks then start the truck the light stays off till i let the break go. some times it will go off for 10 to 20 minutes. chilton book does not help for this year. cant find abs box or test lead. chilton says wire is orange/black. not under my hood. any advise would be great.
Would I have to adjust the shoes via the star-wheel, or are they self-adjusting, and will seat after a steady dose of RPM's, dropping the clutch and a slam into reverse?
Thanks
PS- All things considered, I'm actually serious about my suggested remedy
Because I think the Host will delete what I want to say, and, at least, send me a warning email, probably suspend me, if I would say what I want to say.
Actually, rather than you 'unfortunately owning' a Ranger, it appears an unfortunate Ranger is owned by you, a person with a sledge hammer.
But the cause of the problem could also be the solution. The sledgehammer that is. He should try to remove the drums using the exact method he used to install.