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Ford Ranger Brake Problems



  • Check out the right front wheel hub ABS sensor.
  • I'll have my mechanic check that out. Thanks Buster15
  • Hey all,
    Ok. I got my brake problem fixed. Buster15 thanks for the heads up on the ABS sensor.
    But as it turns out thats not what it was. What happened was the brake pads were worn (of course) and due to the lift kit the caliper was was hitting the frame and not letting the brake grab like it should. So they replaced the pads and BAM I have brakes again.
    Just seemed so strange that it only did it when the wheel was turned all the way to the right. Not the left. But hey I'm happy. It's fixed.
    And to top it off. I took it back to the dealership I got it at. They did all that work and didn't charge me a thing. When they could have. It was sold AS IS. They even gave me a demo car to drive to work today.
    So I'll be telling everyone I know thats looking for a car to see these guys.

    Thanks for the help guys. :shades:
  • Hey Runninghorse,

    Glad you got it all worked out. Keep the sensor in the back of your mind, from the Ranger and Escape people I have talked to the wheel hub sensors are a common problem. See my experiences in previous posts.

  • Thanks Dave. I will always keep the ABS sensor in mind from now on.
    I've always owned older trucks and didn't have to worry about all these new fangle gadgets. LOL :blush:
    Man for a couple weeks I was really wishing I had my 86 Bronco II back.
  • Hey Buster15,

    I have a 2002 ranger xlt. I've been having for squeaking problems coming from my left front wheel. Based on the information i've been telling my buddies, it's been diagnosed as a brake pad problem. Yesterday while driving around my ABS light came on. I drove home and left it sit all day. This morning I came to work and the light was off. I have noticed that I have some excessive brake dust on my right front wheel but not my left where it's squeaking. Would the ABS light have come on due to the brake pad problem with my left front wheel or do you think it might be the wheel hub sensor as stated in your reply to runninghorse above. Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!
  • Okay folks, I need some help.

    Two weeks back, I did a brake job on my truck (front and back). Shortly thereafter, I have developed a "moaning" noise coming from the front brakes after they warm up. It generally takes 10 minutes of driving and braking before it begins, and only occurs between 10 mph - 0 mph.

    When I worked on the brakes, I had the original rotors turned (for the first time), and replaced the old pads with new ceramic pads. At first, I thought it was coming from just one wheel (front left), so I swapped the left and right front rotors and pads to see what would happen. Now it appears to come from both front wheels.

    My guess is that the pads are crap ($43.00 from AutoZone), and when they heat up they moan against the hot rotors. I should have learned my lesson by now about buying parts (other than oil and filters) from stores like this.

    Oh, the truck brakes perfectly straight, so now problems there.

    Am I close on my guess?
  • gene23gene23 Posts: 2
    It sounds like you have a speed sensor problem that ties in with the abs system . You didn,t say but does it takes longer to stops ? Take it to a Tech and have them check the signal from each sensor my guess is that one or both signal will be weak . Just one of the problems on the Ranger . Hope that this helps .
  • It doesn't take any longer to stop, in fact everything seems normal except for that "moaning" noise when the brakes heat-up. And, this noise only started after I replaced the pads and turned the rotors.

    The best way to explain the noise is like there's brake fluid between the pads and rotors (which there is none).
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Did you grease the pen slides on the pads? If not, this might be where the noise is coming from.

    You got ceramic pads for $43? I thought these were the most expensive pads made?

    Anyway, if you bought a 'heavy duty', hard set of pads, you might just have some noise from them. Long ago, I put a set of full metallic shoes on a Duster. In the last few feet of stopping, these brake shoes just screamed. Small children on the sidewalk would hold their ears. But they stopped the car very well!
  • I'm not sure what "pen slides" are. Are those the two slides for each of the calipers?

    I think what I might try next is another set of pads before the rotors become scored. This time it's NAPA or the Ford dealer. Also, maybe not ceramic.

    Interestingly, when you look at these pads they appear to have metallic flakes in them (shiney and silver). Is that what ceramic looks like? I thought ceramic was a clear glass composite.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Yes they are shiny with metal looking flakes.

    $ 43.00 is a good price bought mine at napa for $ 65. I didn't bother to cut the rotor just slapped the pads on and spread that red stuff on the back of the pad that came in a squeeze tube and no noise for 2k miles.

    BTW, I have a 2wd Edge.

    Rather than the napa brand you might want to look specifically for Raybestos or Bendix ceramic pads.
  • Hi all, just found this site, hope someone can maybe help me or lead me in the right direction. I have a 2001 4X4 Edge. The problem i am having with my brakes is that they pulsate. I have replaced the rotors, drums, pads and shoes but i still have the same problem. The weird thing is that they only start to pulsate at 42-43 mph. They dont do it when braking from a higher speed, but when i reach 42-43 they pulsate extremely bad and then it slowly fades with little pulsing coming to a stop(although you can still feel it somewhat). Any ideas?
  • Hello all
    I have rear abs. the abs light is always on. replaced sensor in differential. not the problem. if I keep my foot on the breaks then start the truck the light stays off till i let the break go. some times it will go off for 10 to 20 minutes. chilton book does not help for this year. cant find abs box or test lead. chilton says wire is orange/black. not under my hood. any advise would be great.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The brake fluid in the master cylinder is low.
  • Thank you for your reply. fluid is @ proper level. need to find location of test lead for abs.
  • I unfortunately own a 1990 ford ranger 2wd truck. While replacing the rear drums, neither would slide easily over the shoes, thus a sledge hammer was brought in. Now the entire rear axle is in a state of almost seizure, I'm assuming the shoes haven't retracted and are binding against the drums, or the drums are not seated squarely, despite dozens of heavy hits with a hammer. I've tried tightening the lug bolts down and they're at almost 200ft-lbs with the wheels still seized up.

    Would I have to adjust the shoes via the star-wheel, or are they self-adjusting, and will seat after a steady dose of RPM's, dropping the clutch and a slam into reverse?


    PS- All things considered, I'm actually serious about my suggested remedy
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't have much to say about this post.

    Because I think the Host will delete what I want to say, and, at least, send me a warning email, probably suspend me, if I would say what I want to say.

    Actually, rather than you 'unfortunately owning' a Ranger, it appears an unfortunate Ranger is owned by you, a person with a sledge hammer.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054

    But the cause of the problem could also be the solution. The sledgehammer that is. He should try to remove the drums using the exact method he used to install.
  • haha

    Entertaining response.

    I realize my methods of maintenance on this truck are rather unorthodox, I do however, have extensive knowledge of how to do everything auto-related, I don't think, however, that this vehicle is one to actually put any effort towards.

    Besides, why should I put effort into maintaining a vehicle which someone didn't even bother to put effort into when designing it?

    An unfortunate Ranger it is indeed.

  • I have replaced the internal combustion engine in a 1987 Ford Ranger with an electric motor and (more importantly relative to this post) 1400 pounds of batteries. The Ranger had a 2.3L L4 FI OHV engine with Rear Wheel Drive only.

    The state inspectors checked it out with some kind of inertia piece of equipment and claimed that the brakes did not stop it quickly enough. The electric motor kit includes a vacuum pump to handle the vacuum assist and we have included a barbecue size propane tank vacuum reservoir to help with the assist.

    Are there any ideas as to where we could get the most increase in braking power for the least amount of effort and expense? We are considering increasing the vacuum shut off switch to get more vacuum, hopefully, using a larger vacuum reservoir or installing a new master cylinder and vacuum booster.
  • I have a 1997 ford ranger and the ABS & the brake light are both on at the same time any sugestions.
  • dwinmacdwinmac Posts: 4
    After getting several replies to the original question on different forums replies to the following two questions would really be helpful.

    Has anyone out there actually done an upgrade to the larger 2 piston calipers from the newer (93-97) rangers on the equivalent of a 1987 Ranger with 2 wheel drive? Is there a kit available? Is there welding involved with the upgrade?

    Same thing with upgrade to 10 inch drums on the back. Has anyone done this on the equivalent of a 1987 Ranger 2 wheel drive? Is there a kit available? What kind of processes are required. Is it a matter of unbolting the 9 inch and bolting back in the 10 inch or is hack sawing and welding involved or perhaps a whole new axle required?
  • dwinmacdwinmac Posts: 4
    Back in Jan 06 the ABS light on my 98 Ranger would illuminate sometimes after a hard stop but other times for no seeming reason. I took it to my mechanic and they replaced the rotors and brake pads, checked the calipers on the front wheels and cleaned and lubricated the sliders. On the back wheels they cleaned and adjusted the brakes. That corrected the problem.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First thing to check is the fluid level in the master cylinder. Low fluid can cause the ABS light to come on when you use the brake.
  • they don't come on when I'm Braking they are on all the time and never go off & I don't know why.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, if the ABS light is on, it is also setting some error code/s.

    Have the codes pulled and this should give an idea of what is wrong. I don't know if the local parts house can pull ABS codes for free. I think these codes must be pulled from a connector different from the usual diagnoistic connector.
  • mike409mike409 Posts: 1
    I need the routing of the emergency brake cable for a 2001 XLT 2.5liter, non HDsuspension, with 9" brake drums., and an approx. wheel base of 112". A drawing or photo would be a great help. Thanks.
  • well i got the truck about 5 month's ago, at first the break's started to lock up every once in awhile then their was a noise that started coming from the left front sounded like something was stuck in my tire like a swishing i replaced the breaks,outer bearings,calipers rotors were in good shape.well it helped for about 3 days then all started again but now my abs light is on and my tire shakes a little bit and when i put my truck in 4 wheel drive you can here a bad noise coming from that tire but 4 wheel drive works.can someone please help me out!!
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