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Ford Ranger Brake Problems



  • as far as your sensors go... they can be anywhere around the area. most manufacturers do it different from others. just look for the wires and follow them, they will lead you to the sensor. when you take off the bearing nut and washer you can pull the rotor straight off. the outside bearing will come right out. the race will have to be pressed out if you want to replace it. i usually dont replace them unless they are really messed up. now, for the inside bearing, your gonna have a seal on the inside holding the inner bearing in. once you get the rotor off you can put the washer and nut back on the spindle shaft. sit the rotor on the washer to the point that the seal is caught on the washer. tilt the rotor down toward the ground a little and just jerk it out toward you and the seal should come right on out. I do recomend that you replace that seal after you pull it out. you will need to re-pack the bearings with grease and pack the center of the rotor with grease as well when putting it back on.
  • jvr2010jvr2010 Posts: 1
    hi everyone,
    the brake lights on my 1998 Ranger XLT 4-Cyl Supercab aren't working!!! the red light in the 3-bulb assembly turns on when i turn on the driving lights, but nothing happens when i step on the brake pedal. i checked all of the bulbs and they are fine.

    here's some more info:
    - the people who installed the camper shell (which i removed today) 10 years ago covered up the 3rd brake light above the truck's sliding rear window
    - the people who installed the camper shell seemed to have spliced into the wiring for the middle (red) bulb on the driver's side to provide power to the camper shell's 3rd brake light (which never worked)

    what should i check for? i'm not very handy with cars, but i'd like to have an idea of what's going on, so that i can either fix it myself (if it's something simple) or so that i can have an idea of what to expect if i take it to get it fixed. thanks!!!!
  • sasha2sasha2 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the information,does the race come with the new the rotors?I am going to buy PBR brand rotors.So when I pull off the old rotors the front bearings slide off and the rear will come off when the seal is removed,How do I get the race into the new rotor?Sorry for all the questions I have never done rotors like this ,only the rotors that slide off when the wheel is off.Thanks again for the information.
  • jpd5036jpd5036 Posts: 1
    Hello, I bought my Ranger used about 5 years ago and have loved everything about it until recently. For the last year or so now I have been having all sorts of problems with my brakes. First, the driver side brake pads and rotor wore out while the passenger side wasn't even touched. So I replaced the break pads and rotors on both the driver and passenger side. Then about 6 months later the passenger side pads and rotors wore out without the driver side looking like it was touched. So, once again I changed them. Now, it seems as if the passenger side has once again worn out way before the driver side had. I was thinking that maybe one side was getting stuck on or one side wasn't working at all but becasue it has switched sides I'm not really sure now. In between all of this I had to replace the cylinder in the rear drum brake and I thought maybe, in some way, this would fix my problem but it did not.

    Well, I hope someone took the time to read all this lol. Any help at all would be greatly apreciated becasue I am at a stand still right now and do not know what to do.

  • eman4715eman4715 Posts: 1
    Brakes do stop vehicle with no fade or mushy feeling but with excessive pedal travel. When applying brake pedal, I hear what must be the booster bleeding air, probably due to the excess travel. Also, the emergency brake all of a sudden takes more clicks to set. This problem just occurred. No warning or previous indications of a problem. I would think that perhaps the rear brakes may be out of adjustment but are they not self adjusting? And, I recently rotated the tires and the brakes seemed OK. I had to gently work the wheels off the hubs.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If you hear air leakage, and you usually should have a change in engine speed at idle when you push on the brake, you have a failed (leaking vacuum) booster.

    Get it fixed, quick. You have much less pedal travel available, and significantly reduced braking capability. (You will have to push very hard to stop the car.)
  • Your problem ( truck keeps moving a couple of feet after almost stopping) was last July but I have the same symptoms. Wonder what the problem finally was & how it was resolved.
  • I have a 94 Ranger 2wd and I have no rear brakes at all. I just replaced the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders in the rear drums. When I go to bleed out the rear after building pressure I get no fluid to come out. Is it possible the abs valve located on the frame rail is bad, or could it be something else.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, you do have rear wheel ABS on a 1994.

    It's my understanding if you get air into an ABS valve, you cannot manually bleed it out. You must have the tech's electrical diagnostic 'tool' to do it. I think the tool turns on the ABS pump to force the air out. But you cannot manually force the fluid through.

    You're going to have to take the truck to a shop equipped to handle it.
  • kag13kag13 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 ford ranger 4x4, breaks have been spongy, now at a slow speed when i try to stop it the pedal seems to stop on top and i continue by where i'm trying to stop. could this be air in the abs system or something else? Or maybe the vacuum booster? Thank you for any help someone could give me.
  • kjs123kjs123 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Ranger2.5L. The truck sat for about a month with a few starts here and there. Now when i press the brake pedal down it stays down and will not come back up. When i hit the brake, the clutch also goes down some with it. The clutch pedal also stays down but is not as bad as the brake pedal. Any ideas what this may be? Cables?

    Thanks in advance!
  • philliplcphilliplc Posts: 136
    1998 XLT here with brakes that have always had some bad grab <15 MPH when cold or wet, sometimes causing the vehicle to skid for a few feet. Ford mechanic found nothing wrong, and of course couldn't duplicate it with the brakes warmed up.

    From skimming this thread it sounds like that might just be a Ranger design flaw. Assuming it's just to the rear drums catching on slight rust build up or whatever, is there no easy fix? Just something to live with?

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    'Ride' the brakes gently for the first 100 yards on wet mornings. This will stop the grab on the first stop. Worked on my 94 which lived in a nice garage and still grabbed in wet weather.
  • garyg8garyg8 Posts: 1
    This original post is about a year old. Did the ABS pump bleed work?
    I have the same problem on a '99 4x4, but have not done a "normal"system bleed yet.
    I really want to get this taken care of ASAP.

  • took it to a dealer they repressureized the system haven't had any problems since.
  • skeglerskegler Posts: 1
    I have a '90 ranger w/2.3. When i press brake pedal ignition lights come on without key in ignition. Have replaced ign. cylinder and ign. switch. Can this brake light switch be bad enough to do this and completely drain my battery. All lights still work and no blown fuses. No burnt wires. Truck is in very good cond. 'cept this new glitch.

    When i disconnect neg. cable and reconnect this does not happen again until i put key in turn it ,pull key out and then press brake pedal and then the ign. lights come on. Did this before i replaced ign. parts.
  • flake55flake55 Posts: 1
    Hey, I am not sure if you had this fixed yet, but I had the exact same problem with an 01 Ranger. Every mechanic wanted to change everything to do with my brakes until I told them to just change the speed sensors. On the 01, I had two sensors (left/right sides) that monitor the speed of the wheel. I changed both of them and the front brakes work fine.
  • I just read about your problem . I got the same 94 Ranger with the same problem . I kept opening brake lines till I got to the abs valve on driver side frame rail. No fluid would come out of it . Did you change this valve ? If so did it fix the problem? This valve costs close to $ 200.00 don't need to throw parts at the problem especially when they cost $200.bucks
  • I have a 2002 Ranger 2WD with a brake problem that has stumped my mechanic. When I back down my steep driveway in the morning (rpms above 1200) my brake pedal can reach the mechanical stop without locking up my brakes. I slow down, but if driving fast down the driveway I find that I can't completely stop. All four brakes have been inspected along with the master cylinder and fluids. Brakes are pressing 60/40 front/back. My mechanic (private shop with 25+ years experience) has never had such a problem, and didn't find any alerts from Ford that address the problem. Anyone encounter such a problem? Got a fix for it?
  • if you figure this out please let me know.... same problem just got a '02 4x4 damn thing kinda klicks at times slows down but continues to go foward. I actually had the truck 2 days and today ran into a retaining wall because of it... please help us..
    I know its not the pads rotors or fluids.. gotta be something electronic.
  • I have a 1999 4 L 4x4, same problem 2 yrs ago. It turned out to be the front left wheel sensor in the hub.

    Let me know.
  • bill87bill87 Posts: 4
    I have no back brakes. I cannot get brake fluid to the rear brakes. I have plenty of fluid. I do have fluid going to the thing under the drivers seat. I do not have fluid coming out of it. I assume that it is bad, but I have no idea what to call it. Anybody know what it is called or ever have this problem?
  • Just bought 2009 ford ranger and enjoy it very much. For the braking system on this truck is there any precautions that i should take when breaking this truck in?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    This truck, if like my 94, has rear wheel ABS. You probably have air in the ABS pump. You cannot get the air out with a 'regular' 'open a bleeder and pump the pedal' procedure.

    You are going to have to take it to a shop that has the correct tech tool. This tool will activate the ABS pump to push the air out. You cannot do this manually.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Read the owner's manual for break-in processes.

    It will probably say to not use 'excessive braking' for the first 500 miles. In other words, do not do several high speed braking passes or descend a long, steep hill for the first few miles. But the ABS should keep you from 'locking up' the brakes from a high speed stop....
  • I have a 2000 Ranger. My left rear brakes lock up. I Have to jack up the truck no matter where I'm at remove the drum to turn the self adjuster in all the way so to free up the wheel. This just suddenly started, I'm not sure if it's the emergency brake or maybe the wheel cylinder isn't retracting. I quit using the emergency brake as of last night.
    It starts out alright at times then will start locking up to the point that my wheel doesn't turn at all. But I did manage to drive it home last night after a 10 mile drive just fine. But there was a smell of like overheated brakes or drums when I got out. I felt the drums but they where cool to the touch. I also looked for any fluid leaks but I don't see any and the master cylinder is full. If it helps the recent weather here was rain\sleet now snowy. But the roads now are dry not slushy.
    Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
  • I drove my 94 Ranger (V6 manual) to run some errands yesterday and had no problems. However, when I went to go drive it last night I got in and when I stepped on the brake pedal it went all the way to the floor. I didn't have time to look at it last night and borrowed a car from a friend. This morning I go look at it and it appears that I lost a lot of brake fluid from the right front brake. What type of repairs might I be looking at and any idea on the cost? Thanks.
  • It was cold here, below 0, and one day my e brake light turned on and stayed on. I verified that the brake was disengaged and it is. The light is still on. Any ideas? I heard that the sensor/switch may be bad. How do you disengage this or turn off the light?
  • xrfunxrfun Posts: 1
    hi i have an 08 ranger wildtrak. The brakes have failed 6 times in 26k miles. the dealers are not able to diagnose a fault or replicate the fault on a test drive. i have spoken to an engineer who works on abs systems,the diagnosis i was given was that it is probably the system is sensing the wheel speeds on initial breaking ,making the abs "think" that there is ice and probably only allowing about 10 percent of the breaking power. has anyone else experienced this or got a solution?
  • My Ranger has started having brake problems. When you touch the brake pedal it will start down on its own until the rear brakes lock. You can pull the pedal back up with your foot and everything is fine until the next time you touch the brake pedal. The pedal will return to the top but you have to give it some time. If you are sitting still, the pedal doesn't seem to have the same problem. What could be the cause for this problem?
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