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Hyundai Elantra Problems 2001-2006



  • ras4151ras4151 Posts: 11
    I have a 2004 Elantra GT with 34000 miles. The headlight covers have gotten a film over them. I have seen it on other Elantras. Anyone have an idea what I can do, besides replacement, to clear them.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    Since your car is still under warranty, you might see if the dealer will replace them or "repair" them under warranty.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    If they won't do anything about the headlight lenses, go to an autoparts store and buy some lens cleaner. There is a special cleaner just for this kind of thing.

    If you want to just try something cheap, try using some toothpaste on a soft cloth. The very mild abrasive should clean them up good (or so I've heard).
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    I would guess the clunking in the rear is either a sway bar end link or sway bar bushing. If you can get under the car (I can slide under the back end of it without even raising it with jacks), you will see a bar that runs across the car between the struts. It will be attached to the struts with end links (the are probably white plastic) and the bar is anchored to the body with two brackets with bushings. Those bushings are the most likely culprits.

    If you need to jack up your car to get under there, jack up both sides evenly if you're going to mess around with the sway bar. As long as the right and left rear tires are loaded the same (either both on the ground, or both hanging in the air and the car up on jack stands), there is no load on the bar. But if you jack up one corner and leave the tire on the other side on the ground, the sway bar will have a lot of force in it. It's not at all dangerous as long as the two back wheels are evenly supported (or both unloaded altogether).

    If you jack up the car and remove the tires, this is what it would look like:

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    This is with no change in weather, driving habits/patterns, or gas formulation (i.e. winter gas blend), right? What was your mpg before, and what is it now? And what mix of city/highway driving do you do?
  • My daughters 2006 Elantra hatchback has had the master cylinder replaced twice since the first of the year. The third time I brought it in I was told there was air in the ABS system and they bled the system and said it was repaired. That was 2 weeks ago. Tonight the brake pedal went all the way to the floor again. Any ideas or suggestions as to the real problem and how I can get it fixed. It is still under warranty with only 40,000 miles.

  • I had the same condition on a Japanese car about 3 yrs ago. No hydraulic leaks. I did replace the brake master cylinder but did not fix the problem. The problem was the ABS unit called the HECU (hydraulic & electronic control unit) of the Antilock Braking System. One of the normally closed valve on the HECU was stuck open. Was ok after replacement of the HECU.
  • My wife's '01 experienced the same issue with left side (right previously replaced due to an accident). I buffed it out with a buffing wheel on my hand held drill and different polishing rouges. Same thing I have do to to my '95 Dodge Neon about every three years.
  • My daughters 2005 elantra keeps having a issue with fuel. Everytime you fill the car up it stalls out for the first 50 or so miles. I have taken it to the dealer but they say there is nothing wrong. I thought at first that she had got bad gas and tried gas treatment. But it has happened numerous times and she has got gas at different locations. Any help would be great
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    You might take the car to Autozone and have them scan the computer for free, for trouble codes. If nothing shows up, I guess I'd try this---fill the car up then take it in and have a shop test the fuel pressure in the fuel rail and see if the reading (in PSI) is either too high or too low. This would indicate a possible fault in fuel delivery, such as fuel pump or better yet fuel pressure regulator.

    I'm also thinking of some issue perhaps with the evaporative emissions system during fill up but I'm a bit lost on making the connection to the symptoms described. Perhaps someone here could carry this train of thought a bit further than I can.

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  • I had the codes checked and all was good. I guess the next step is to have the fuel pressure checked.
  • Amy75Amy75 Posts: 1
    My 2007 Elantra seems to sway from side to side. I have new tires on the car and the car has recently been aligned. Air pressure is good in all tires. What type of things may be the issue?
  • bonne03bonne03 Posts: 3
    I have a 04 Elantra that I'm having problems with. I had the check engine light code ran and it was Code 443 Evap Vent Solenoid. My local mechanic is a bit stuck on how to repair, said hoses seem fine, nothing clogged. Anyone had this problem?
  • My 2005 hyundai elantra has white blochy spots on the hood of the car only? what caused that and how can it be fixed?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    can you take a photo and post it? Hard to say what exactly you are talking about. Could be oxidation, clear coat damage, chemical damage, etc.

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  • Just noticed yesterday that my 05 Elantra frnt passenger door lock will not automatically lock or unlock with the buttons or keyless remote. Therefore if that door is unlocked when using the remote to ARM the alarm the alarm won't chirp that it is armed but it really is and then when you go to open passenger door, which won't auto lock, you set off alarm. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what might be wrong and how I can fix it myself??
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Had the same problem with my '05 last year. It was a burned out relay and replaced by the dealer under warranty. Try the dealer if your warranty is still in force. If not, the part number from my repair order is 95250-2D000.
  • gllucadgllucad Posts: 4
    my 2001 elantra gt generally runs smooth. When turning on the air conditioning, the engine seems to run rough--from the extra pull from the air conditioning. Recently the check engine light came on during this period. Upon turning off the air and engine, restarting the check engine light was clear. Is there a sensor or particular item I need to look at to eliminate this from happening again ?
    thank you
  • tworkmantworkman Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Elantra. Between 60-65 MPH I get a bad front end shake. If I ease off the gas and maintain that speed, the shake goes away. If I give it gas, the shake comes back and stays through 65 or so and then goes away. I do not have any shaking at similar RPM at reduced speeds. I have new tires, balanced three times, rotated every which way still shakes. I have new brakes all around, still shakes. I replace the front and rear motor mounts, still shakes. The mechanics, several of them are perplexed. The car runs great, shifts great, the front end is very tight. I have 122,000 miles and am the original owner

    Help !!!!!!!
  • My car shook too and I got the new tires, rotated and balanced at required times, however, nobody told me to get an alignment and I just had that done and the car has never driven so good...NO MORE SHAKING (my GPS is relieved cause it was always bouncin around in its holder!!) :)
  • dsalyersdsalyers Posts: 1
    I need help. My 2004 Hyundai Elantra got stuck in 3rd gear. We had it put on the computer for analysis and it says that three parts were bad: the idle speed control, the oxygen sensor, and the shift solenoid A. The mechanic said that the shift solenoid is probably the real problem so we have ordered the part and must change it ourselves since the warranty is out and we can't afford $85/hr. We have researched online and found a lot of information on the Hyundai Service Website at but we are having a little difficulty with finding the exact diagrams and instructions on changing the shift solenoid A. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • tworkmantworkman Posts: 2
    Thanks, I forgot to mention I have been alligned, still shaking :mad: :cry: :cry:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    Try another balance, this time be sure they are using a Hunter 9000 or equivalent. Elantras of this generation are very sensitive to out-of-balance wheels. I just had the wheels on my 2004 GT rotated and balanced (free from the tire dealer every 6k miles). I now notice a slight shake at 60-70 mph that wasn't there before. So when I have time I'll take it back for rebalancing. This has happened before on my 2001 and 2004 Elantra. Sometimes the first balance didn't do the trick. The 2nd time was the charm in each case.
  • emcee99emcee99 Posts: 4
    It's the tires. It's always the tires. I am the original owner of a 2001 with 150,000 miles. Just replaced the tires again at 146,000 and it is completely vibration free again. You can't use cheap tires (I'm using BF Goodrich from Costco). You must have a good alignment and balance. You must make sure the steering components are all tight (I just replaced the inner tie rod ends). But good tires are the most important thing.
  • Just another comment regarding clutch replacements - mine just set me back over $1,400 on a 2006 Elantra Hatchback. I took it to an independant garage where I was given a two year warranty. The dealership offered a one-year warranty for the replacement Hyundai clutch - good to find out how long they figured the second one would last.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    Yes, I agree. Although the OEM tires on the 2001-6 Elantra were rather pricey Michelins, and many folks had shimmy problems with those. I never did. But it's popped up a couple of times on my 2004 probably because I went the cheap route when I had to replace the tires at 18k due to my DW's run-in with a curb in a blizzard (curb won). The tires work and wear fine, but one seems to be badly out of balance so the tire shop has to balance them carefully or I get the shimmy.
  • I just took my Elantra in to the dealer for the 30,000 mile service check. They replaced 2 of the original front tires even though the wear was only 5/32 & 6/32. They were free, so it was ok. However, my car rode poorly so I checked the tires. They put 87H on the front and the originals on the back are 88H. They don't want to switch them out. They said the load weight doesn't matter. I know for a fact it does but they're giving me the run around. They said it's not the tires, it's my struts and all 4 need to be replaced. I asked how could that be with so few miles and I don't go 4-wheeling with the thing. They said it was due to being put on the lift every time I had normal maintenance done. I think I'm getting scammed here. But when you push down on my car it barly moves, so the struts probably are bad. It sounds like they're defective though. They also replaced the timing belt even though it didn't need it. They said if I didn't replace it and it broke, whatever got damanged would not be covered by the 10-year warranty. What do you folks think? Thanks!
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    I think you're being scammed.

    For one thing, if the struts were worn out, the car would keep bouncing and bouncing. The fact that it "bar[e]ly moves" is proof that the strut cartridges (which function like shock absorbers) are in good shape. The only way that bad struts would cause a stiff ride would be if the springs were binding.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    First, complain to the dealership's management. They were extremely dishonest with you. The tip-off is the timing belt replacement--they at the very least should have gotten your approval before replacing it. Also unless you run on bad roads all the time, it's unlikely all 4 struts went out at 30k miles. I still have the original struts on my '04 Elantra with 45k miles and they're fine. My sister's '01 Elantra, which she bought from me a few years ago, has about 65k miles and the original struts.

    Second, find out if the dealership is a member of BBB, and if so file a complaint with them.

    Third, call Hyundai Customer Service and tell them what happened.

    Finally, never go back to that dealership, unless it's to buy a part or pick up a refund check.
  • I'm looking for a cheap, reliable car for an elderly relative.

    I recently test drove a 2001 Elantra in a used car lot. It has 80,000 miles on it but the body is immaculate. I checked the glove compartment and found a ton of service receipts from the previous owner. The car shimmied on the highway; the new battery was loosing power so the alternator was replaced; brakes and rotors were replcced three times in about one year; power steering hoses too. Also, the car apparently stalled on the highway, but mechanic couldn't find the problem. The check engine light was on when I took it for a test drive (it otherwise drove very well)

    On the one hand the car sounds like it might be a lemon. On the other, it has all new parts now so one would assume the problems are solved. Price is right -- $3000.

    As a loyal Toyota owner, i'm very nervous about this car's reliabilty ratings.

    Should I buy it?
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