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Comments
Is the xmission slip problem with the 4-speed in the XLS or 5-speed in the Limited?
--PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks.
K & N air filters would be nice for Monty, but have not seen that they are available for 2001 Monty yet. Look @web site <http://www.mitsubishi-accessories.com/index.asp> for some Monty parts & accessories.
I went the aftermarker route and wired for a 7 pin plug and trailer brake system. Dont know if the factory wiring is 7 pin (best due to extra hot wire for trailer battery charging and electric brakes)
No problems with tranny here either. In fact, I think this is the best Da$% tranny that I have every shifted. I hope there is no breakdown now that I said that...knock on wood.
As far as timing belt changes I'm going to be crushed here but I have never changed a belt in any other car of mine before 100K. Risk taking...perhaps but I belive that the manufactures recommendation is over rated. I think that in CA the dealer must state the repair is to be considered not required. There must have been a consumer suit or something that made them change it to something that is more appropriate. Personally I think they make thier est conservative to avoid warrenty problems and complaints.
Ultimately the performace will be better I believe with the colder, denser air.
Please let me know what you find out from the dealer.
Thanks.
Checked out the K&N link. They do make a filter that fits the Montero cold airflow airbox now. Also found the posting (way back) on the scheduled maint. costs. I knew it would be expensive. Everything is. Am I understanding this correct, that in this engine if the timing belt breaks that engine damage would result? brill, You are probably right that the belt is designed to last much longer - probably 50% more (90k mi.) than recommended interval of 60k mi.
Is anyone having a problem with the black leather seats getting too hot to sit in when the truck is parked in hot sun? I KNOW vinyl would surely burn your legs good if you were wearing shorts.
Granted, my previous experience was with a timing chain rather than a belt. Does anyone else have any experience with a timing belt breaking, and what type of damage the belt can do when it breaks?
At the time all agreed it sounded a little strange and I don't think anyone else ever mentioned that they had their dealer call them. This was about 8-10 months ago if I remember correctly.
Anybody else remember any details about this?
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-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
<http://www.knfilters.com/contact.htm>
I have requested pricing that I will post.
On the factory wiring harness, at least that what the dealer installed as factory supply, was a bit disappointing cheap, as it was only a 4-pin flat plug with no aux.contacts (like for trailer brakes). It is a Class 3 hitch, that sells for $300. including shipping from "Mitsubishi Genuine Parts" over the net.
I am still looking for winter tires with good off road tread that can be studded. Not many good aggressive tread designs can be studded. Any help?
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I had never heard of them before but, ProComp tires are used by quite a few off-road race folk out here in the California desert.
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-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks.
And if so then one has to be careful of feeling that because the shift is not "snappy" that there is any "delay" or "slipping" going on.
My shifts seem to be smooth as glass and there seems to be an engine/tranny management going on to prevent hard shifts. If the Montero does not have such a system than perhaps mine is "slipping" but it sure is subtle.
I dont disagree with you changing your belt at 60K its just a risk/benefit assessment that each of us has to make factoring in cost, how hard the vehicle is driven, confidence in the build quality.
I dont know if the valve clearence is such that a broken belt can result in the pistions coming in contact with the valve train but if they can it would be very expensive to fix.
In older Toyotas its said that the valves would not be damaged as they would clear. In my Acura, forget it, your in for an expensive valve job. It has 98K on it and no belt yet so I need to get my butt in there soon.
The cost was more but I think that the 7 pin is probably worth the extra cost over the 4 pin. When I heard about the problems with the factory wiring here I just went and had it wired by a good mechanic. the quality of the job really is more dependent on who does it.
I think the hitch was about $150.00, wiring with converter and pre wire for electric brake module ran < $100 and the electric brake module will be about $49. I think that is still in the factory cost ballpark and you end up with a better system perhaps.
Apparently there has been a small price increase on the latest build dates. I confirmed this at several dealers - invoice is now $34,557 for the latest production. Anyway, I purchased it for $34,500.
After driving it for a few days and looking it over really good, one thing concerns me just a little. It is the part of the fenders that come down behind the wheels. They look very nice, but I am concerned about the ground clearance of it (especially since it is so close behind the wheel) when going over rough terrain. And, I know this part would be expensive to replace. Anybody have any problem with this yet?
For serious off roading Mitsubishi will have to make adjustments to this on future models. Perhaps I could pick up a better replacement part then.
I think Big "O" Tires carry them also here in California.
Here's link to 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers website
http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp?imseqn=746&occlass=PCTC&cat=TIR
It looks like they have a 265/75R16 that would probably fit without any modification. It is about 1-in. larger diameter than the 265/70R16 that comes stock. This would give you 1/2-in. of lift.
The clearance I think you want to check is the distance between the tires and the "mud flaps" that "rs rogers" mentioned above. (I worry about those d**n things every time I go over a rock -- but no problems yet. Maybe need to remove them like on that blue Australian 2000 Pajero project. You know, I think they put 265/75R16 MT's on that one. But they also added 2-in. (50-cm) lift with new springs when they removed the "mud flaps".)
I think when my stock tires are shot, I will replace them with either this Pro Comp tire or BFG's in this size and add the 2-in lift.
Also, if you decide to buy, make sure they still have the holes for the studs as it looks like this is a new design from the 305/75R16 the kid got.
The other thing to remember is that the speedometer will be running a little slow with larger diameter tires. Don't get caught speeding.
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-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
I would upgrade the anti sway bushings as well to help take out more roll. If larger bars are available then would consider replacing these at that time as well. Then truck would ride flatter in corners...but....you would have increased wheel "jounce" I think they call it making potholes more uncomfortable (always tradeoffs in life)
What we are talking about is 4-ea. Pedders Springs available from --
http://motorcare.com.au
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
The 2000 LTD with most features and 30K sells for between 21-23K now for comparison.
The spings were quoted at something like 300 AUS and when I used thier conversion to US it quoted 1 AUS = .54 US. Would that make these springs something close to $160 US?
and hitting the car parked just next to me.
My fender above the rear driver's side wheel looked ruined. It was on top of the bumper of the other car. After I drove off, the fender almost returned to its original shape and had a few scratches on it. (I hadn't realized that it was plastic.) The insurance estimate was $339.15. I haven't had it fixed because I hardly notice that anything is wrong with it. The fender above the passenger side rear wheel has clear plastic sheathing hanging from it. (I don't see this side of the vehicle at all, so I haven't done anything about it, either.) Is there plastic sheathing on the fenders that should be removed after the vehicle is purchased?
sheathing, which I finished pulling off, was under the rear door. This piece was on the opposite side of the fender (towards the front of the vehicle) around the rear tire. There are two pieces of this plastic on each side. One faces the front of the vehice and goes to the underside of the body and the other is on the side (same area). Does anyone else have this on their vehicle? Was it suppose to come off? Did I just confuse everyone more?
Was that $339 for one fender flare? Yikes.
I measured from the ground to the base of the front fender flares behind the wheel. 9.3 inches. Looks much lower, though - especially compared to the base of the body under the doors. Even though it IS 9.3 inches, it looks too low when compared to the rest of the vehicle, and to the size and proximity to the tires.
I don't know about everyone else but I am somewhat confused.
Each plastic rear fender flair consists of 4 separate parts, yes? I can find only 3. The front "mud flap, the main part of the flair, and the rear "mud flap".
Does each front fender flair also consist of 3 or 4 separate parts?
Could you list the discription as given by the body shop for each or for those they quoted you for?
Would it be possible to remove the "mud flap" part of each flair and leave the main part undamaged, intact and in place?
I also had miscellaneous parts of protective sheathing (film) attached that should have been removed during "new car prep." Is this the material that you pulled off?--
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
Been lurking in this site for a while but never posted. It actually helped me buy my truck. Thanks to all. Bought a Silver LTD (no rear air) for 33,900 (Carmax Maryland, May 01) plus they gave me a free mountain bike (nice one also!)
The truck is a real dream except that coming from a 91 Suzuki Sidekick (which I drove to South America, btw) it is probably too sophisticated for me.
The amber center differential light has come on blinking several times: Once after using 4L to get unstuck from sand (don't like the Yokohamas) and another using the Sportronic to pass on the highway.
The manual says that if the light comes on blinking, you should turn off the engine, wait some time and start again. Seems like this reboots the systems and does the trick but why would it come on blinking in the first place?
Can anybody explain?
Am I doing something wrong?
Need help as this is driving me nuts!!
Sergio
FWIW --
Unless it is just happening randomly while not doing any mode changing (in which case you need to take it for service), the blinking signifies that the differential is in process of transitioning (or trying to transition) from one mode to another. Blinking and an audible beeping means you did something wrong, it probably won't transition and may break somehing. Return to previous mode immediately.
When going in to or out of 4LLC or 4HLC mode make sure the transmission is in neutral and that you are completely stopped. If it doesn't transition and the light keeps blinking go back to the mode you were prviously in, put transmission in drive or reverse and move a little (1-2 ft.) then try again in neutral.
When going in to or out of 2H or 4H mode make sure you are moving less than 60 mph. In fact, I find the transitioning is completed faster (blinking goes out sooner) if you let up on the gas as soon as you move from one mode to the other. I don't change modes while accelerating.
If shifting manually at high speed, I don't think you want to be going from 2WD to 4WD or vice versa at all.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
My wife was backing out of the drive, and discovered she had no brakes. Dealer towed it in and said it was the abs motor, the part is on back order, we have been without the vehicle for 2 weeks.
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I own a 91 Trooper and a 2001 Montero Ltd now. Of course, I realize these vehicles have a higher center of gravity than a Honda Civic with 4 inches of ground clearance. I don't try to drive it like a Honda Civic either. In fact just this past weekend I was driving the Montero (fully loaded with 6 persons and gear) on the interstate when a truck knocked a construction barrel into my lane about 50 yards in front of me. I dodged very quickly and nicely, but not so abrubtly and violently that I would have flipped the truck. I am learning what the Montero is capable of - and I will drive within those limits.
In addition to my Trooper, my dad has had 3 Troopers. Neither of us has had any situation here we tipped a Trooper up on 2 wheels. And, in my opinion, the Trooper is much more prone to tip than the Montero. I've even had a rear axel and wheel fly off of one of my dad's Troopers while I was rounding curve on an interstate at nearly 70 Mph. THAT was dangerous! But I did not over-react or jerk the steering wheel or apply the brakes. I held the wheel straight and coasted/skidded to a stop - on 3 wheels and one axle housing.
TV news would have you believe that when your Firestone tires blow out on your Explorer they make it rollover. I suspect the real and primary reason for injuries and rollovers in the Firestone/Ford situation is the driver not knowing how to handle his or her vehicle in response to a blowout. Sure, any vehicle will flip if you go fast enough and jerk the wheel hard enough and step on the brakes.
If you do not know how to drive an SUV, then you should not drive one.
In the test, the same driver drove other SUVs with no problems. The CR finding is that our Montero poses a substantially higher risk than those trucks in a common avoidance maneuver that we all have probably performed once.
This is a design flaw, NOT a question of driving ability.
Lemmon suit anyone?
The Montero tipped over where other SUVs did not tip over and the other SUVs where driven the same over the exact same course at the same speed.
The test was repeated over and over with similar results.
Just because someone else has driven one and it never tipped over when they drove it and they have never personally witnessed a Montero rolling over doesn't mean it is not more prone to roll over than the next vehicle.
I hate that magazine. I don't even OWN a Montero.
". . . what happens when it exceeds its handling limits. Typically, the vehicle will slide or skid sideways, knocking over cones. In most circumstances, this is a more controllable situation than a tip-up or rollover."
Since I buy and drive my cars for at least 7 years and trucks for 12-14, maybe now's the time to go buy another one.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
The second piece of the arch extends the length of the back door only and continues as a smaller fender above the wheel that stops at the top of the arch. The next piece of the arch is also a fender only and is a litter over a foot long. My quote from the insurance company was to refinish this piece. The final part of the arch is probably what you would call the mud flap. I thougt that the insurance company figured to replace this part because they said the "knot" (bump where it bent)
would not come out. Indeed the "knot" is still there, I don't think that its noticeable.
The insurance company lists the parts as follows:
I 0564 Cover, rear bumper lt repair .5*1
L 0564 cover, rear bumper lt refinish 2.4 4
1.5 surface
.6 two-stage setup
.3 two-stage
SB Hazardous waste remova sublet 3.0
4 items
final calculations & entries
parts
gross parts $165.90
paint material 52.80
Adjustments discount- $8.30
parts total-$210.40
tax on parts & material-15.78
labor - sheet metal- $33.00/hr replace hrs
.2 repair hr. .5 $23.10
labor- refinish-$33.00-replace hrs. 2.4- $79.20
total labor $102.30, tax 7.67, sublet repairs3.00
Gross total $339.15
I am very dissapointed about the consumer report evaluation. I probably would not have bought this vehicle had I learned of this before. I hope Mitsubishi does something about it. I really like my Montero, but I am concerned about the safety of my family.
rberard -- thanks for the info. I took a closer look and realized there are 4 pieces.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
I am sorry for all the current owners because the resale value will go significantly because of Mitsu's mistake. I guess I'll stick with the ML320.
Instead of trying to help solve the problem (the videos are evidence enough), they are attacking the conductor of the tests.
This attitude is not going to take them anywhere with the american public whose reliance on Consumer Reports is deeply ingrained.