Is the xmission slip problem with the 4-speed in the XLS or 5-speed in the Limited?
--PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks.
need help looking for a dealer who is selling Montero Sport inexpensive new or test driven model is not so important. I live in Los Angeles ,however willing to travel for a good deal. Thank you in advance for your help
Yes, it has a timing belt that they reccomend changing @ 60K miles rather than 90K miles like some. Very expensive like changing the spark plugs @ 60K miles. Some old posts on this topic. Maintenance is not cheap on the Monty. Ask your dealer about costs for scheduled maintenance, it's not pretty, but many other SUV's the same. Sore subject here.
I bought a 4 manual set (6" high stack) through the Monty dealer (part #MSSP004B2001) @ close to dealer cost (?) for $98. + tax.. They seem to be very good and it is what the Monty service people use for reference, so it's not just for sale to Monty owners.
K & N air filters would be nice for Monty, but have not seen that they are available for 2001 Monty yet. Look @web site <http://www.mitsubishi-accessories.com/index.asp> for some Monty parts & accessories.
Would get the hitch thrown in at the dealer (as part of any new purchace). Cheaper overall when you figure that even with a less expensive aftermarket hitch the cost of installation of it and more importantly the wiring.
I went the aftermarker route and wired for a 7 pin plug and trailer brake system. Dont know if the factory wiring is 7 pin (best due to extra hot wire for trailer battery charging and electric brakes)
No problems with tranny here either. In fact, I think this is the best Da$% tranny that I have every shifted. I hope there is no breakdown now that I said that...knock on wood.
As far as timing belt changes I'm going to be crushed here but I have never changed a belt in any other car of mine before 100K. Risk taking...perhaps but I belive that the manufactures recommendation is over rated. I think that in CA the dealer must state the repair is to be considered not required. There must have been a consumer suit or something that made them change it to something that is more appropriate. Personally I think they make thier est conservative to avoid warrenty problems and complaints.
If you go with this filter just remember that if you dont retain the outside feed of air you might be exchanging more air from under the hood (that is warmer and less dense) for less, cold air from outside the monte (which is more dense).
Ultimately the performace will be better I believe with the colder, denser air.
In response to the tranny problem posted by hi5543i1 on message #696. I too have the tranny problem with the shifting between 2nd and 3rd. However, my tranny does not necessarily have to be cold to show this problem. It doesn't happen all the time, but on occassion, and more so when the tranny is cold. Please let me know what you find out from the dealer.
Thanks, claybuster & brillmtb. We have a ltd picked out as a possibilty. Not purchased yet, but dealer quickly got in the ballpark at $34.5k with 4.9%. I think he was waiting for a counter offer. But, I wasn't going to buy this weekend - and didn't have time if I did. I'm seriously thinking about having them throw in the hitch with wiring harness.
Checked out the K&N link. They do make a filter that fits the Montero cold airflow airbox now. Also found the posting (way back) on the scheduled maint. costs. I knew it would be expensive. Everything is. Am I understanding this correct, that in this engine if the timing belt breaks that engine damage would result? brill, You are probably right that the belt is designed to last much longer - probably 50% more (90k mi.) than recommended interval of 60k mi.
Is anyone having a problem with the black leather seats getting too hot to sit in when the truck is parked in hot sun? I KNOW vinyl would surely burn your legs good if you were wearing shorts.
Having had a timing chain (not belt) break on a previously owned vehicle, (it happend EXACTLY when it was recommended to be changed--a cruel irony) and the ensuing damage that occurred, I personally am not gonna take the chance...I'll change it at 60,000. This does seem a bit soon, and you would probably be safe waiting (especially if you don't do a lot of off roading), but it is a heck of a lot cheaper to replace the belt than the engine....just my .02 cents worth.
Granted, my previous experience was with a timing chain rather than a belt. Does anyone else have any experience with a timing belt breaking, and what type of damage the belt can do when it breaks?
No problems here (knock on simulated wood plastic), but, I just had deja vu all over again about a post on this (or its predecessor) board about someone buying a 2001 Montero, then getting a call from the dealer about bringing it in for a 1000 mile checkup that, as I recall, had something to do with the transmission: "Check up of the module (?)" and/or questions about problems and/or how they liked the way it adjusted to driving habits.
At the time all agreed it sounded a little strange and I don't think anyone else ever mentioned that they had their dealer call them. This was about 8-10 months ago if I remember correctly.
Anybody else remember any details about this?
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-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
On the factory wiring harness, at least that what the dealer installed as factory supply, was a bit disappointing cheap, as it was only a 4-pin flat plug with no aux.contacts (like for trailer brakes). It is a Class 3 hitch, that sells for $300. including shipping from "Mitsubishi Genuine Parts" over the net.
I am still looking for winter tires with good off road tread that can be studded. Not many good aggressive tread designs can be studded. Any help?
OK, so what's the deal? Why are these filters the best thing since mother's milk? Also would like info (pro's & con's) about changing tires, although I'm not looking for studs.
My son bought 305 x 75-16 ProComp MT tread tires which have the holes for studs for his Trooper.
I had never heard of them before but, ProComp tires are used by quite a few off-road race folk out here in the California desert. -- -PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks.
Dont get me wrong there may be some slippage in the 2nd 3rd change in some of the Monteros but I want people to know that it seems to me that this tranny/engine system seems to have a feature whereby the engine RPM drops just before shifts to make the trasition smoother....right?
And if so then one has to be careful of feeling that because the shift is not "snappy" that there is any "delay" or "slipping" going on.
My shifts seem to be smooth as glass and there seems to be an engine/tranny management going on to prevent hard shifts. If the Montero does not have such a system than perhaps mine is "slipping" but it sure is subtle.
Wow! thats unusual for a timing chain to break. Usually they dont.
I dont disagree with you changing your belt at 60K its just a risk/benefit assessment that each of us has to make factoring in cost, how hard the vehicle is driven, confidence in the build quality.
I dont know if the valve clearence is such that a broken belt can result in the pistions coming in contact with the valve train but if they can it would be very expensive to fix.
In older Toyotas its said that the valves would not be damaged as they would clear. In my Acura, forget it, your in for an expensive valve job. It has 98K on it and no belt yet so I need to get my butt in there soon.
I went for an aftermarket hitch, wired it with a 7 pin plug and electric brake. This SUV really needs the aide of brakes on a larger trailer.
The cost was more but I think that the 7 pin is probably worth the extra cost over the 4 pin. When I heard about the problems with the factory wiring here I just went and had it wired by a good mechanic. the quality of the job really is more dependent on who does it.
I think the hitch was about $150.00, wiring with converter and pre wire for electric brake module ran < $100 and the electric brake module will be about $49. I think that is still in the factory cost ballpark and you end up with a better system perhaps.
Well, I drove my new 2001 Ltd w/rear air home a couple of days ago. Very solid, nice feel to this truck.
Apparently there has been a small price increase on the latest build dates. I confirmed this at several dealers - invoice is now $34,557 for the latest production. Anyway, I purchased it for $34,500.
After driving it for a few days and looking it over really good, one thing concerns me just a little. It is the part of the fenders that come down behind the wheels. They look very nice, but I am concerned about the ground clearance of it (especially since it is so close behind the wheel) when going over rough terrain. And, I know this part would be expensive to replace. Anybody have any problem with this yet?
For serious off roading Mitsubishi will have to make adjustments to this on future models. Perhaps I could pick up a better replacement part then.
It looks like they have a 265/75R16 that would probably fit without any modification. It is about 1-in. larger diameter than the 265/70R16 that comes stock. This would give you 1/2-in. of lift.
The clearance I think you want to check is the distance between the tires and the "mud flaps" that "rs rogers" mentioned above. (I worry about those d**n things every time I go over a rock -- but no problems yet. Maybe need to remove them like on that blue Australian 2000 Pajero project. You know, I think they put 265/75R16 MT's on that one. But they also added 2-in. (50-cm) lift with new springs when they removed the "mud flaps".)
I think when my stock tires are shot, I will replace them with either this Pro Comp tire or BFG's in this size and add the 2-in lift.
Also, if you decide to buy, make sure they still have the holes for the studs as it looks like this is a new design from the 305/75R16 the kid got.
The other thing to remember is that the speedometer will be running a little slow with larger diameter tires. Don't get caught speeding.
--
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
Any prices on the 50mm lift kit? With my hitch in place now the extra lift would be nice for more serious off roading.
I would upgrade the anti sway bushings as well to help take out more roll. If larger bars are available then would consider replacing these at that time as well. Then truck would ride flatter in corners...but....you would have increased wheel "jounce" I think they call it making potholes more uncomfortable (always tradeoffs in life)
I'm seriously considering the purchase of a used 2001 Montero because it appears to be a lot of vehicle for the money. XLS models are showing up in the $22k to $24k range with LTD's starting at the high end of $24k in my neck of the woods. Quite a drop from the sticker range of $31k to $35k for a vehicle with only 20k to 30k miles on it. Any ideas on why it seems to have lost almost a third of its original sticker value? That's really the only thing leaving me second-guessing.... Also, I'm assuming that rear air is not an option at all on the XLS and available only on the LTD? Appreciate any insight!
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
If you can get a fully loaded LTD like mine for 22-24K with 20K miles on it get me ten, I will resell at about 30K and do better than the stock market lately.
The 2000 LTD with most features and 30K sells for between 21-23K now for comparison.
Thanks for the site. When you go under search by vehicle the montero comes up.
The spings were quoted at something like 300 AUS and when I used thier conversion to US it quoted 1 AUS = .54 US. Would that make these springs something close to $160 US?
I drove my '92 suburban for almost 9 years and never backed into anything. I had my 2001 Montero Limited for approx. 4 months when I cut too short while backing out from a parking space and hitting the car parked just next to me. My fender above the rear driver's side wheel looked ruined. It was on top of the bumper of the other car. After I drove off, the fender almost returned to its original shape and had a few scratches on it. (I hadn't realized that it was plastic.) The insurance estimate was $339.15. I haven't had it fixed because I hardly notice that anything is wrong with it. The fender above the passenger side rear wheel has clear plastic sheathing hanging from it. (I don't see this side of the vehicle at all, so I haven't done anything about it, either.) Is there plastic sheathing on the fenders that should be removed after the vehicle is purchased?
I went out and inspected my vehicle and felt that I needed to clarify the areas I spoke about. The estimate for repairs of the fender above the rear tire was for the plastic fender to the rear of the vehicle and the fender next to that one on top of the tire. There are four different pieces that surround the tire. The estimate was for the two towards the rear of the vehicle. The plastic sheathing, which I finished pulling off, was under the rear door. This piece was on the opposite side of the fender (towards the front of the vehicle) around the rear tire. There are two pieces of this plastic on each side. One faces the front of the vehice and goes to the underside of the body and the other is on the side (same area). Does anyone else have this on their vehicle? Was it suppose to come off? Did I just confuse everyone more?
Nice to hear that the parts are pretty durable. They should be. Don't know about the plastic sheating on them. Will go look.
Was that $339 for one fender flare? Yikes.
I measured from the ground to the base of the front fender flares behind the wheel. 9.3 inches. Looks much lower, though - especially compared to the base of the body under the doors. Even though it IS 9.3 inches, it looks too low when compared to the rest of the vehicle, and to the size and proximity to the tires.
Also glad to hear the plastic part hold up well. I suspected this would be true. From aerospace backgound, I can tell you some of these new plastic/composite materials are truly amazing in their strength compared to their weight.
I don't know about everyone else but I am somewhat confused. Each plastic rear fender flair consists of 4 separate parts, yes? I can find only 3. The front "mud flap, the main part of the flair, and the rear "mud flap".
Does each front fender flair also consist of 3 or 4 separate parts? Could you list the discription as given by the body shop for each or for those they quoted you for?
Would it be possible to remove the "mud flap" part of each flair and leave the main part undamaged, intact and in place?
I also had miscellaneous parts of protective sheathing (film) attached that should have been removed during "new car prep." Is this the material that you pulled off?--
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
Hello: Been lurking in this site for a while but never posted. It actually helped me buy my truck. Thanks to all. Bought a Silver LTD (no rear air) for 33,900 (Carmax Maryland, May 01) plus they gave me a free mountain bike (nice one also!) The truck is a real dream except that coming from a 91 Suzuki Sidekick (which I drove to South America, btw) it is probably too sophisticated for me. The amber center differential light has come on blinking several times: Once after using 4L to get unstuck from sand (don't like the Yokohamas) and another using the Sportronic to pass on the highway. The manual says that if the light comes on blinking, you should turn off the engine, wait some time and start again. Seems like this reboots the systems and does the trick but why would it come on blinking in the first place? Can anybody explain? Am I doing something wrong? Need help as this is driving me nuts!! Sergio
Congrats on the new Monte. You made a good choice I think.
FWIW --
Unless it is just happening randomly while not doing any mode changing (in which case you need to take it for service), the blinking signifies that the differential is in process of transitioning (or trying to transition) from one mode to another. Blinking and an audible beeping means you did something wrong, it probably won't transition and may break somehing. Return to previous mode immediately.
When going in to or out of 4LLC or 4HLC mode make sure the transmission is in neutral and that you are completely stopped. If it doesn't transition and the light keeps blinking go back to the mode you were prviously in, put transmission in drive or reverse and move a little (1-2 ft.) then try again in neutral.
When going in to or out of 2H or 4H mode make sure you are moving less than 60 mph. In fact, I find the transitioning is completed faster (blinking goes out sooner) if you let up on the gas as soon as you move from one mode to the other. I don't change modes while accelerating.
If shifting manually at high speed, I don't think you want to be going from 2WD to 4WD or vice versa at all.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
Anyone else heard of the abs motor disabling the brakes. My wife was backing out of the drive, and discovered she had no brakes. Dealer towed it in and said it was the abs motor, the part is on back order, we have been without the vehicle for 2 weeks.
Anyone see that Consumer Reports has given the 2001 Limited a "Not Acceptable" rating and claims that on 8 of 9 emergency maneuvers, the Monte went up on 2 wheels? Apparently, they are urging Mitsu to recall the truck. I have always been a skeptic of CR and their vehicle ratings. I have never been in an emergency avoidance situation with my 2001 Monte but have taken some turns at decent speeds and never had any stability concerns. Has anyone ever noticed a stability problem with theirs?
I haven't had any stability problems with my Monte but clearly this report and the video that will certainly come out this evening will have a big impact on the resale value of our vehicles and of future Monteros. Damn!
Here we go again... Consumer Reports must just love these kind of stories. You would have thought they would have learned their lesson from their stories on the Isuzu Trooper.
I own a 91 Trooper and a 2001 Montero Ltd now. Of course, I realize these vehicles have a higher center of gravity than a Honda Civic with 4 inches of ground clearance. I don't try to drive it like a Honda Civic either. In fact just this past weekend I was driving the Montero (fully loaded with 6 persons and gear) on the interstate when a truck knocked a construction barrel into my lane about 50 yards in front of me. I dodged very quickly and nicely, but not so abrubtly and violently that I would have flipped the truck. I am learning what the Montero is capable of - and I will drive within those limits.
In addition to my Trooper, my dad has had 3 Troopers. Neither of us has had any situation here we tipped a Trooper up on 2 wheels. And, in my opinion, the Trooper is much more prone to tip than the Montero. I've even had a rear axel and wheel fly off of one of my dad's Troopers while I was rounding curve on an interstate at nearly 70 Mph. THAT was dangerous! But I did not over-react or jerk the steering wheel or apply the brakes. I held the wheel straight and coasted/skidded to a stop - on 3 wheels and one axle housing.
TV news would have you believe that when your Firestone tires blow out on your Explorer they make it rollover. I suspect the real and primary reason for injuries and rollovers in the Firestone/Ford situation is the driver not knowing how to handle his or her vehicle in response to a blowout. Sure, any vehicle will flip if you go fast enough and jerk the wheel hard enough and step on the brakes.
If you do not know how to drive an SUV, then you should not drive one.
It's not a question of knowing how to drive it. In the test, the same driver drove other SUVs with no problems. The CR finding is that our Montero poses a substantially higher risk than those trucks in a common avoidance maneuver that we all have probably performed once. This is a design flaw, NOT a question of driving ability. Lemmon suit anyone?
The point is that the Montero is more prone to roll over than even other SUVs. They ran the exact same test with other SUVs and the other SUVs did not tip. The Montero tipped over where other SUVs did not tip over and the other SUVs where driven the same over the exact same course at the same speed. The test was repeated over and over with similar results. Just because someone else has driven one and it never tipped over when they drove it and they have never personally witnessed a Montero rolling over doesn't mean it is not more prone to roll over than the next vehicle.
Remember how the resale values of the Trooper/SLX & Suzuki ABSOLUTELY TANKED just because of the CR article? Dealers didn't want to take used ones in as trade-ins and they couldn't get new ones off the lot even with HUGE discounts.
I don't think I want to be involved in either of the following scenarios from the CU test report general comments on vehicles on their test course:
". . . what happens when it exceeds its handling limits. Typically, the vehicle will slide or skid sideways, knocking over cones. In most circumstances, this is a more controllable situation than a tip-up or rollover."
Since I buy and drive my cars for at least 7 years and trucks for 12-14, maybe now's the time to go buy another one.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
I wish that I could draw a picture to show you as my automobile vocabulary is limited. When I look at my rear wheel, there are four different pieces that make up the arch around it. When looking at the wheel from the drivers side, the piece where the left side of the arch begins extends towards the front of the vehicle the length of both doors. The second piece of the arch extends the length of the back door only and continues as a smaller fender above the wheel that stops at the top of the arch. The next piece of the arch is also a fender only and is a litter over a foot long. My quote from the insurance company was to refinish this piece. The final part of the arch is probably what you would call the mud flap. I thougt that the insurance company figured to replace this part because they said the "knot" (bump where it bent) would not come out. Indeed the "knot" is still there, I don't think that its noticeable. The insurance company lists the parts as follows: I 0564 Cover, rear bumper lt repair .5*1 L 0564 cover, rear bumper lt refinish 2.4 4 1.5 surface .6 two-stage setup .3 two-stage
SB Hazardous waste remova sublet 3.0
4 items final calculations & entries parts gross parts $165.90 paint material 52.80
Adjustments discount- $8.30 parts total-$210.40 tax on parts & material-15.78 labor - sheet metal- $33.00/hr replace hrs .2 repair hr. .5 $23.10
labor- refinish-$33.00-replace hrs. 2.4- $79.20
total labor $102.30, tax 7.67, sublet repairs3.00
Gross total $339.15
I am very dissapointed about the consumer report evaluation. I probably would not have bought this vehicle had I learned of this before. I hope Mitsubishi does something about it. I really like my Montero, but I am concerned about the safety of my family.
" . . . use their information for household appliances and not much else."
rberard -- thanks for the info. I took a closer look and realized there are 4 pieces.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
Actually, my wife and I were thinking about it since this truck has everything we want. However, a friend warned us some time ago that he almost tipped one over in a test drive(in a long fast turn), but I was kind of doubtful about it since I did not hear anything from anybody else. Now it's official, and we clearly won't buy one now. I am sorry for all the current owners because the resale value will go significantly because of Mitsu's mistake. I guess I'll stick with the ML320.
Mitsubishi seems to be violating the #1 law of crisis management: Be forthcoming. Instead of trying to help solve the problem (the videos are evidence enough), they are attacking the conductor of the tests. This attitude is not going to take them anywhere with the american public whose reliance on Consumer Reports is deeply ingrained.
I know nothing about the Montero or the Montero XLS, so forgive me if this is a stupid question, but why is the XLS less likely to roll over ? The article I read specifically stated that the XLS was not included in CR's conclusion.
Comments
Is the xmission slip problem with the 4-speed in the XLS or 5-speed in the Limited?
--PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks.
K & N air filters would be nice for Monty, but have not seen that they are available for 2001 Monty yet. Look @web site <http://www.mitsubishi-accessories.com/index.asp> for some Monty parts & accessories.
I went the aftermarker route and wired for a 7 pin plug and trailer brake system. Dont know if the factory wiring is 7 pin (best due to extra hot wire for trailer battery charging and electric brakes)
No problems with tranny here either. In fact, I think this is the best Da$% tranny that I have every shifted. I hope there is no breakdown now that I said that...knock on wood.
As far as timing belt changes I'm going to be crushed here but I have never changed a belt in any other car of mine before 100K. Risk taking...perhaps but I belive that the manufactures recommendation is over rated. I think that in CA the dealer must state the repair is to be considered not required. There must have been a consumer suit or something that made them change it to something that is more appropriate. Personally I think they make thier est conservative to avoid warrenty problems and complaints.
Ultimately the performace will be better I believe with the colder, denser air.
Please let me know what you find out from the dealer.
Thanks.
Checked out the K&N link. They do make a filter that fits the Montero cold airflow airbox now. Also found the posting (way back) on the scheduled maint. costs. I knew it would be expensive. Everything is. Am I understanding this correct, that in this engine if the timing belt breaks that engine damage would result? brill, You are probably right that the belt is designed to last much longer - probably 50% more (90k mi.) than recommended interval of 60k mi.
Is anyone having a problem with the black leather seats getting too hot to sit in when the truck is parked in hot sun? I KNOW vinyl would surely burn your legs good if you were wearing shorts.
Granted, my previous experience was with a timing chain rather than a belt. Does anyone else have any experience with a timing belt breaking, and what type of damage the belt can do when it breaks?
At the time all agreed it sounded a little strange and I don't think anyone else ever mentioned that they had their dealer call them. This was about 8-10 months ago if I remember correctly.
Anybody else remember any details about this?
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-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
<http://www.knfilters.com/contact.htm>
I have requested pricing that I will post.
On the factory wiring harness, at least that what the dealer installed as factory supply, was a bit disappointing cheap, as it was only a 4-pin flat plug with no aux.contacts (like for trailer brakes). It is a Class 3 hitch, that sells for $300. including shipping from "Mitsubishi Genuine Parts" over the net.
I am still looking for winter tires with good off road tread that can be studded. Not many good aggressive tread designs can be studded. Any help?
Steve
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I had never heard of them before but, ProComp tires are used by quite a few off-road race folk out here in the California desert.
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-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks.
And if so then one has to be careful of feeling that because the shift is not "snappy" that there is any "delay" or "slipping" going on.
My shifts seem to be smooth as glass and there seems to be an engine/tranny management going on to prevent hard shifts. If the Montero does not have such a system than perhaps mine is "slipping" but it sure is subtle.
I dont disagree with you changing your belt at 60K its just a risk/benefit assessment that each of us has to make factoring in cost, how hard the vehicle is driven, confidence in the build quality.
I dont know if the valve clearence is such that a broken belt can result in the pistions coming in contact with the valve train but if they can it would be very expensive to fix.
In older Toyotas its said that the valves would not be damaged as they would clear. In my Acura, forget it, your in for an expensive valve job. It has 98K on it and no belt yet so I need to get my butt in there soon.
The cost was more but I think that the 7 pin is probably worth the extra cost over the 4 pin. When I heard about the problems with the factory wiring here I just went and had it wired by a good mechanic. the quality of the job really is more dependent on who does it.
I think the hitch was about $150.00, wiring with converter and pre wire for electric brake module ran < $100 and the electric brake module will be about $49. I think that is still in the factory cost ballpark and you end up with a better system perhaps.
Apparently there has been a small price increase on the latest build dates. I confirmed this at several dealers - invoice is now $34,557 for the latest production. Anyway, I purchased it for $34,500.
After driving it for a few days and looking it over really good, one thing concerns me just a little. It is the part of the fenders that come down behind the wheels. They look very nice, but I am concerned about the ground clearance of it (especially since it is so close behind the wheel) when going over rough terrain. And, I know this part would be expensive to replace. Anybody have any problem with this yet?
For serious off roading Mitsubishi will have to make adjustments to this on future models. Perhaps I could pick up a better replacement part then.
I think Big "O" Tires carry them also here in California.
Here's link to 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers website
http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp?imseqn=746&occlass=PCTC&cat=TIR
It looks like they have a 265/75R16 that would probably fit without any modification. It is about 1-in. larger diameter than the 265/70R16 that comes stock. This would give you 1/2-in. of lift.
The clearance I think you want to check is the distance between the tires and the "mud flaps" that "rs rogers" mentioned above. (I worry about those d**n things every time I go over a rock -- but no problems yet. Maybe need to remove them like on that blue Australian 2000 Pajero project. You know, I think they put 265/75R16 MT's on that one. But they also added 2-in. (50-cm) lift with new springs when they removed the "mud flaps".)
I think when my stock tires are shot, I will replace them with either this Pro Comp tire or BFG's in this size and add the 2-in lift.
Also, if you decide to buy, make sure they still have the holes for the studs as it looks like this is a new design from the 305/75R16 the kid got.
The other thing to remember is that the speedometer will be running a little slow with larger diameter tires. Don't get caught speeding.
--
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
I would upgrade the anti sway bushings as well to help take out more roll. If larger bars are available then would consider replacing these at that time as well. Then truck would ride flatter in corners...but....you would have increased wheel "jounce" I think they call it making potholes more uncomfortable (always tradeoffs in life)
What we are talking about is 4-ea. Pedders Springs available from --
http://motorcare.com.au
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
The 2000 LTD with most features and 30K sells for between 21-23K now for comparison.
The spings were quoted at something like 300 AUS and when I used thier conversion to US it quoted 1 AUS = .54 US. Would that make these springs something close to $160 US?
and hitting the car parked just next to me.
My fender above the rear driver's side wheel looked ruined. It was on top of the bumper of the other car. After I drove off, the fender almost returned to its original shape and had a few scratches on it. (I hadn't realized that it was plastic.) The insurance estimate was $339.15. I haven't had it fixed because I hardly notice that anything is wrong with it. The fender above the passenger side rear wheel has clear plastic sheathing hanging from it. (I don't see this side of the vehicle at all, so I haven't done anything about it, either.) Is there plastic sheathing on the fenders that should be removed after the vehicle is purchased?
sheathing, which I finished pulling off, was under the rear door. This piece was on the opposite side of the fender (towards the front of the vehicle) around the rear tire. There are two pieces of this plastic on each side. One faces the front of the vehice and goes to the underside of the body and the other is on the side (same area). Does anyone else have this on their vehicle? Was it suppose to come off? Did I just confuse everyone more?
Was that $339 for one fender flare? Yikes.
I measured from the ground to the base of the front fender flares behind the wheel. 9.3 inches. Looks much lower, though - especially compared to the base of the body under the doors. Even though it IS 9.3 inches, it looks too low when compared to the rest of the vehicle, and to the size and proximity to the tires.
I don't know about everyone else but I am somewhat confused.
Each plastic rear fender flair consists of 4 separate parts, yes? I can find only 3. The front "mud flap, the main part of the flair, and the rear "mud flap".
Does each front fender flair also consist of 3 or 4 separate parts?
Could you list the discription as given by the body shop for each or for those they quoted you for?
Would it be possible to remove the "mud flap" part of each flair and leave the main part undamaged, intact and in place?
I also had miscellaneous parts of protective sheathing (film) attached that should have been removed during "new car prep." Is this the material that you pulled off?--
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
Been lurking in this site for a while but never posted. It actually helped me buy my truck. Thanks to all. Bought a Silver LTD (no rear air) for 33,900 (Carmax Maryland, May 01) plus they gave me a free mountain bike (nice one also!)
The truck is a real dream except that coming from a 91 Suzuki Sidekick (which I drove to South America, btw) it is probably too sophisticated for me.
The amber center differential light has come on blinking several times: Once after using 4L to get unstuck from sand (don't like the Yokohamas) and another using the Sportronic to pass on the highway.
The manual says that if the light comes on blinking, you should turn off the engine, wait some time and start again. Seems like this reboots the systems and does the trick but why would it come on blinking in the first place?
Can anybody explain?
Am I doing something wrong?
Need help as this is driving me nuts!!
Sergio
FWIW --
Unless it is just happening randomly while not doing any mode changing (in which case you need to take it for service), the blinking signifies that the differential is in process of transitioning (or trying to transition) from one mode to another. Blinking and an audible beeping means you did something wrong, it probably won't transition and may break somehing. Return to previous mode immediately.
When going in to or out of 4LLC or 4HLC mode make sure the transmission is in neutral and that you are completely stopped. If it doesn't transition and the light keeps blinking go back to the mode you were prviously in, put transmission in drive or reverse and move a little (1-2 ft.) then try again in neutral.
When going in to or out of 2H or 4H mode make sure you are moving less than 60 mph. In fact, I find the transitioning is completed faster (blinking goes out sooner) if you let up on the gas as soon as you move from one mode to the other. I don't change modes while accelerating.
If shifting manually at high speed, I don't think you want to be going from 2WD to 4WD or vice versa at all.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
My wife was backing out of the drive, and discovered she had no brakes. Dealer towed it in and said it was the abs motor, the part is on back order, we have been without the vehicle for 2 weeks.
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I own a 91 Trooper and a 2001 Montero Ltd now. Of course, I realize these vehicles have a higher center of gravity than a Honda Civic with 4 inches of ground clearance. I don't try to drive it like a Honda Civic either. In fact just this past weekend I was driving the Montero (fully loaded with 6 persons and gear) on the interstate when a truck knocked a construction barrel into my lane about 50 yards in front of me. I dodged very quickly and nicely, but not so abrubtly and violently that I would have flipped the truck. I am learning what the Montero is capable of - and I will drive within those limits.
In addition to my Trooper, my dad has had 3 Troopers. Neither of us has had any situation here we tipped a Trooper up on 2 wheels. And, in my opinion, the Trooper is much more prone to tip than the Montero. I've even had a rear axel and wheel fly off of one of my dad's Troopers while I was rounding curve on an interstate at nearly 70 Mph. THAT was dangerous! But I did not over-react or jerk the steering wheel or apply the brakes. I held the wheel straight and coasted/skidded to a stop - on 3 wheels and one axle housing.
TV news would have you believe that when your Firestone tires blow out on your Explorer they make it rollover. I suspect the real and primary reason for injuries and rollovers in the Firestone/Ford situation is the driver not knowing how to handle his or her vehicle in response to a blowout. Sure, any vehicle will flip if you go fast enough and jerk the wheel hard enough and step on the brakes.
If you do not know how to drive an SUV, then you should not drive one.
In the test, the same driver drove other SUVs with no problems. The CR finding is that our Montero poses a substantially higher risk than those trucks in a common avoidance maneuver that we all have probably performed once.
This is a design flaw, NOT a question of driving ability.
Lemmon suit anyone?
The Montero tipped over where other SUVs did not tip over and the other SUVs where driven the same over the exact same course at the same speed.
The test was repeated over and over with similar results.
Just because someone else has driven one and it never tipped over when they drove it and they have never personally witnessed a Montero rolling over doesn't mean it is not more prone to roll over than the next vehicle.
I hate that magazine. I don't even OWN a Montero.
". . . what happens when it exceeds its handling limits. Typically, the vehicle will slide or skid sideways, knocking over cones. In most circumstances, this is a more controllable situation than a tip-up or rollover."
Since I buy and drive my cars for at least 7 years and trucks for 12-14, maybe now's the time to go buy another one.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
The second piece of the arch extends the length of the back door only and continues as a smaller fender above the wheel that stops at the top of the arch. The next piece of the arch is also a fender only and is a litter over a foot long. My quote from the insurance company was to refinish this piece. The final part of the arch is probably what you would call the mud flap. I thougt that the insurance company figured to replace this part because they said the "knot" (bump where it bent)
would not come out. Indeed the "knot" is still there, I don't think that its noticeable.
The insurance company lists the parts as follows:
I 0564 Cover, rear bumper lt repair .5*1
L 0564 cover, rear bumper lt refinish 2.4 4
1.5 surface
.6 two-stage setup
.3 two-stage
SB Hazardous waste remova sublet 3.0
4 items
final calculations & entries
parts
gross parts $165.90
paint material 52.80
Adjustments discount- $8.30
parts total-$210.40
tax on parts & material-15.78
labor - sheet metal- $33.00/hr replace hrs
.2 repair hr. .5 $23.10
labor- refinish-$33.00-replace hrs. 2.4- $79.20
total labor $102.30, tax 7.67, sublet repairs3.00
Gross total $339.15
I am very dissapointed about the consumer report evaluation. I probably would not have bought this vehicle had I learned of this before. I hope Mitsubishi does something about it. I really like my Montero, but I am concerned about the safety of my family.
rberard -- thanks for the info. I took a closer look and realized there are 4 pieces.
-PHOnos; White/Silver Limited w/Rear A/C; July 2000 build date; $34,500 + TTL in August, 2000 (no extras included); zero down, 4.8% for 48 months; Orange County, CA.; 18,000 miles, slight squeak from rear brakes when dry/hot, probably glaze on rotors/disks
I am sorry for all the current owners because the resale value will go significantly because of Mitsu's mistake. I guess I'll stick with the ML320.
Instead of trying to help solve the problem (the videos are evidence enough), they are attacking the conductor of the tests.
This attitude is not going to take them anywhere with the american public whose reliance on Consumer Reports is deeply ingrained.