Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mitsubishi Montero



  • karno1karno1 Posts: 33
    even though they gave in, i'd be so disgusted to even bother buying a truck from them. I woulda gone elsewhere. So far no luck in locking in the deal for me, due to they were robbing me on my trade in by 3k. Therefore I'm still stuck here w/o a truck. I have to see what I can do to sell my current car before I can buy this truck. It really stinks when you have a trade in, makes the deal go totally all sour.
  • eddie43eddie43 Posts: 1
    Consumers Reports states that premium gas is needed for this vehicle. When I asked the dealer they said it wasnt necessary. What is the truth here? Are you guys putting regular gas in your vehicle and having good results? Also, I'm a bit concerned with the lack of power in this vehicle. When will the 2002 be out and are there any rumors they will be fixing the sluggish v6?
  • dskidski Posts: 414
    It calls for premium. Why would you want to ignore what they recommend? People will cheat on this because they find the engine won't self destruct but I still think it's a bad idea.

  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    It is interesting to note that on previous posts the recommendation for premium was stated to have been a translation from Japanese and that premium fuel in Japan is closer to our mid grade, or something like that. The implication was that running mid grade or even good quality regular would be meeting the same standards as running "premium" in Japan.

    I think it would take a fuel expert, someone who has been in the cracking of hydrocarbon buisness to tell us whether Japanese gas is inferior in this way.

    I know they have lower sulfur content over there but that doesnt really have anything to do with the regular-premium issue.

    I have run mid grade with no drop in mileage or performance. No "pinging" although these vehicles may have an engine management system that retards timing with lower grade fuel.

    I have the shop manuals, perhaps I will take a closer look.
  • shakti4ushakti4u Posts: 4
    Are you folks in the So Cal area. If so can you give me the names of the sales people that you worked with. I am in the market for a LTD

  • sd_montysd_monty Posts: 5
    I noticed a few posting here asking about dealers and prices in Southern California. I live in San Diego and picked up my new
    Montero LTD on Saturday.

    I faxed all the dealers within 100 miles last week and asked for
    bids. I got a 2001 Monty LTD with no rear air or any other options
    for 33,076 + tax and lic.

    I bought from Browning Mitsubishi in Cerritos. Thier bid was substatially lower than the others that I received. The sales manager's name is Bryant Lee. No hassle. They treated me very well.
  • shakti4ushakti4u Posts: 4
    sd_monty can you give me the breakdown i.e your net drive off price
    you can email me at
  • mp19fanmp19fan Posts: 102
    Check post #447 for my dealer and price. Best price after numerous phone calls and emails to/from other dealers within 40 miles. --Jimmy
  • dskidski Posts: 414
    >>I have run mid grade with no drop in mileage or performance. No "pinging" although these vehicles may have an engine management system that retards timing with lower grade fuel.

    I have the shop manuals, perhaps I will take a closer look.<<

    Well I would like to know what the Real Truth here is. I do realize there may be some confusion. The owners manual does not really address the question well but the sticker says premium.

    A couple of points: Allowing for the Mngmt System to Retard Timing is fine but it is not intended for long term use. Thus my comment that asks why would one use somthing other than whats recommended. ie. Save $2.00 a tank in your $35,000 vehicle. Second - there may be some confusion with U.S. grades but the sticker is in English not Japanese. I know.... that was more of a humorous comment. It still doesn't prove there was no confusion.

    Honestly, I would like to know what Rating this engine was designed for. I am strongly against using anything higher or lower over the long term. That's something the experts all agree on. Marketing has caused people to think "Premium" is Better. Not true. Better is to using the octane rating that the engine is designed for. If it's designed for 87, then that's what is "Better". Using 92 in that instance is a waste and actually a detriment to your engine - but the reverse is Much more damaging. That's why, for now, I'm sticking with the Premium listed on the fuel door.

  • I go my Monte from Dealer in NE WA, a little far for So Calf.

    I am also interested in the octane required for the 2001 Montes, so I will do some checking from this end. The other part of the equation is the 10% alcohol being added to the gas in many parts of the country for air pollution control, especially in the fall and winter months in this part of WA. The gas mileage drops about the same 10% using this mix from tests that I have run and several people that I know that ran this own tests. Anybody have any official tests? I go to Idaho and get real gasoline when possible.

    No "Check Engine" light problems, since second fix and 350 miles back
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    I think most of us agree with you, $2 more per tank is a small price to pay not to have to think about a second longer.

    The larger questions still remain.

    1. Is it true that Japanese gas is rated different such that American reg or mid grade is equal to Japanese "premium"?

    2. Does the Montero have an engine management system, does it retard timing a little, does this hurt anything but performace long term?

    Until these questions are answered it seems it would be prudent to run premium fuel. It would be interesting to find out that our octane in our premium exceeds that in the premium in Japan dont you think?
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    I think many states add ethanol now. I have noticed definite increases in gas mileage with non "oxy fuel" as they call it in Oregon.

    I would agree with you that about 10% improvement.
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    Check this link out

    6.13) Can higher octane fuels give me more power?

    On modern engines with sophisticated engine management systems, the engine can operate efficiently on fuels of a wider range of octane rating, but there remains an optimum octane for the engine under specific driving conditions. Older cars without such systems are more restricted in their choice of fuel, as the engine can not automatically adjust to accommodate lower octane fuel. Because knock is so destructive, owners of older cars must use fuel that will not knock under the most demanding conditions they encounter, and must continue to use that fuel, even if they only occasionally require the octane.

    If you are already using the proper octane fuel, you will not obtain more power from higher octane fuels. The engine will be already operating at optimum settings, and a higher octane should have no effect on the management system. Your driveability and fuel economy will remain the same. The higher octane fuel costs more, so you are just throwing money away. If you are already using a fuel with an octane rating slightly below the optimum, then using a higher octane fuel will cause the engine management system to move to the optimum settings, possibly resulting in both increased power and improved fuel economy. You may be able to change octanes between seasons ( reduce octane in winter ) to obtain the most cost-effective fuel without loss of driveability.

    Once you have identified the fuel that keeps the engine at optimum settings, there is no advantage in moving to an even higher octane fuel. The manufacturer's recommendation is conservative, so you may be able to carefully reduce the fuel octane. The penalty for getting it badly wrong, and not realising that you have, could be expensive engine damage.


      6.14) Does low octane fuel increase engine wear?

    Not if you are meeting the octane requirement of the engine. If you are not meeting the octane requirement, the engine will rapidly suffer major damage due to knock. You must not use fuels that produce sustained audible knock, as engine damage will occur. If the octane is just sufficient, the engine management system will move settings to a less optimal position, and the only major penalty will be increased costs due to poor fuel economy. Whenever possible, engines should be operated at the optimum position for long-term reliability. Engine wear is mainly related to design, manufacturing, maintenance and lubrication factors. Once the octane and run-on requirements of the engine are satisfied, increased octane will have no beneficial effect on the engine. Run-on is the tendency of an engine to continue running after the ignition has been switched off, and is discussed in more detail in Section 8.2. The quality of gasoline, and the additive package used, would be more likely to affect the rate of engine wear, rather than the octane rating.


  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    Another post which is getting closer to what I have heard about fuel ratings in Japan.

    There are two (actually three) ways to measure octane. The value referenced in the owners manual is for RON? The value of the octane as described on US pumps is figured as (RON+MON)/2 and since MON is always a lower value, you will find that our US 92 octane is better than Euro 95 octane RON.
  • karno1karno1 Posts: 33
    I finally did it!

    Locked it in for once. Took me a total of 4 visits to 4 different dealerships to get this one. Got a limited white Monty w/ rear air, and running boards for 34,259 including 5.9% financing, and 180 days/6 month deffered payments, plus they gave me more than what I wanted on my trade in! very hard to get a deal like this while trading in a 5 yr old used car. The service of this dealership was very down to earth, and customer friendly! They accommodated me in every way possible.......located in Rahway NJ.
    only one thing concerned me......this dealer had over 30 new MONTY'S on his lot.....hmmmmmm.
    pickin it up tomorrow, can't wait!!!
  • aaronhoaaronho Posts: 6
    What do you guys think I should pay for a 2001 Montero demo(with rear air)? It has around 5K to 8K on it. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

  • dskidski Posts: 414
    That was a great article on octane!I've read similar articles over the years but that one is the best explaination I've read. Plus, it totally supports my opinion to use the octane your engine is designed for - no higher - no lower. I often get into arguements with people who want to insist that Premium offers benefits even when your car doesn't call for it.

    But our question is still there: What REALLY is the optimal octane for our Montero's? I beleive that we have a mngmt system that will allow us to use lower octanes but I want to run with a fuel that will NOT cause engine settings to be adjusted. I'm starting to wonder if we'll ever get a straight answer. Dealers want to sell cars so they just say - use Regular.

    The Mystery continues.
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    Your right, the question that still needs to be answered is where did the premium rating come from, Japan? and is the rating in Japan like that in Europe where Euro 95 = US 92.

    I have a couple emails out to folks to try to get this answer. In the meantime it is premium or 1/2 premium 1/2 midgrade, no lower for me.

    One more thing, confirmed in the articles is that you can use LOWER octane safely at altitude. This is something I have done for years. Used to have a high perf Firebird that needed higher grade at sea level but ran fine on regular at 6000ft. The lower atm pressure actually lowers engine pressures and as such pre detonation is less likely to happen.

    I think you could certainly run mid grade safely or possibly even regular at 6000ft or above in the Montero. Again, just a matter of comfort level with your choice.
  • I've read every post in this thread. I live in Rhode Island, and I'm ready to buy. It seems to me that what I'm looking for should be easy. Montero LTD, running boards, rear AC, and wind deflector for sunroof. Seems that everyone has been buying them for around $34,500 - $34,700. 2 dealers near me pull out invoices for Montero LTD for $34,635! This must be BS! Edmunds lists invoice 32,135, rear ac at 783, and advert at 520. That's only $33,438!

    If anyone has purchased one in Rhode Island or Massachusetts please post where!

    Karno1, let me know if your happy! If I have to drive to NJ, I will !

    Sometimes us yankee's can be real cheap!
  • ehollisehollis Posts: 14
    Dear Gorilladf

    One item that you're not including is the advertising fee. It's 921$ or thereabouts, and is charged to the dealers by an Advertising association that they are forced to join... (I'm not defending it, but I understand that it is legitimate) is a source of great information. I got my LTD w/rear air and running bds for 34881. I could have done better, but I didn't want to beat the dealer up, since I wanted to have the car serviced there. Some posts claim 33700 for a LTD. I'm skeptical. If you find a dealer with lots of these to sell, I think that you can get down to the 34,200 range now, what with the economy and all....

    Now I have something for the group. I have not sent in my CSI yet, I just got it last week from JD Powers. However about a week before I got it, I got a letter from the dealer instructing me how to fill it out! He had the nerve to write that "JD Power will not get involved in making your lease/purchase more enjoyable" He said that JD Power looks at the surveys, and then send them to the dealer. The clear message that I got was "fill it out right or else". Considering that I was very happy with the dealer until I got that letter, I don't know what to do. I'm really angry about it, and I'm tempted to send the letter to Mitsubishi and to JDPower, and slam them on the CSI. But I thought I would ask this astute body what they thought...(smile). Thanks for responding.
  • ehollisehollis Posts: 14
    I found a green demo with 6K miles on it. (LTD/rear AC, push bar, running bds, sunroof wind deflector) They were asking 33,900. Here's how I would figure it:
    Since you can get a new one for 34,500, lets start there. Subtract .15/mile. If it has 8K, then subtract 1200$ That's 33,300 as a fair price. I'd start at 33,100, work up to 33,400, and make them throw in an extended warranty at 1/2 price (They'll do it.)
  • shakti4ushakti4u Posts: 4
    Prices on the Monty LTD with air have gone up as of i think March 1st or 15th
    The new breakdown is $33,481 (incl) dest for a base add $783 + adv fee which is $371 instead of $900+

    What has really gone up I guess is the base price and dealers are adjusting down their add fees

    Anyways I have a question for Monty Owners out there anyone bought add'l warranty and if so can you send me an email about what to pay if this comes down to a deal breaker

    thx for all replies and feedbacks
  • Ok, so they increased the base. Shakit4u's number come out to the $34,635. Where did you find these numbers, and how are people geting them for $34.5 - $34.7???
    I've checked evrywhere on net. All invoices are cheaper. ???

    Please help me make my wife happy :)
  • karno1karno1 Posts: 33
    i got it finally. rides like a true dream! quite nice for a mitsu. i got it for 34,259, including 4.9% interest, and 3 months deferred payments. it all worked out pretty well. they charged me 370 for the running boards which were done at cost, yet i wasn't too happy about it, for there are 2 different types of boards. i wanted the silver metalic ones to match my white w/ silver trim combination....instead they gave me the black running boards.....he's going to see if he can swap the boards. i didn't mind paying for the boards, due to he ended up giving me more on my trade in. for those of you interested in dealing w/ the guy i dealt with, he's in rahway nj. one of the best/efficient dealership i know. by the way, the promotions are said to expire by March 31st, and this dealer had over 30 new MONTY's on the lot.......thats why he was very willing.......hope this has helped!
  • phonosphonos Posts: 206
    For all you SoCal Monte owners who are also photographers and/or nature lovers (or just need an excuse to get out and use 4HLC & 4LLC on the transfer case) --

    The desert wildflower season is just underway, with a better than average bloom at Joshua Tree National Park, Anza- Borrego State Park, and starting, I hear, in the East Mojave National Preserve. The California Poppie Reserve between Gorman and Lancaster opens this weekend, but its still early at that elevation for any bloom.

    We were down at A-B last week. Beautiful blooms along Henderson Canyon of Sand Verbina. Check out the A-B S.P. website. (This road is paved)

    The real fun in A-B is taking the trails. We went up into Coyote Canyon as far as the third crossing of the creek. The first crossing is dry, but is where most 2-wheel drivers stop due to deep, loose sand. We forded the stream at the second crossing. This was great, there were a lot of folk stopped here by the 10-12 inch deep, 20 yard wide crossing. We stopped before the third crossing because I couldn't convince my wife it was shallower than the second (and my son stole my tow strap for his Trooper).

    Lots and lots of Ocotillo that has put out leaves, and should be in full bloom by April 1 along this section of the trail.

    Also took the trail down to Fonts Point, very sandy. (4-WD, required this year, and I would agree, according to the Rangers at the Visitors Center in Borrego Springs. Also took the Arroyo Salada trail as far as Five Palms oasos. This is great practice and not too difficult if you have never driven off-road much. Also quite a few other friendly off-roaders, so even if you had a breakdown, someone will come along within 15-20 minutes to help you out.

    Still havn't downloaded photos of the Monte in Death Valley, so I guess I won't promise photos of crossing the creek anytime soon.

    PHOnos, 2001 Montero Ltd, rear A/C, Aug 2000, build date July 1999, $34,500 (no extras, darn!)+ TTL, 4.9% for 48 months, Orange County, CA. (Extended warrenty through Credit Union was about half the price of that through the dealer. Shop around.)
  • Just a brief note for those of you who have not yet bought a Monte to avoid the problem that karno1 had. Mitsu offers two types of steps: (1) "running board side steps" and (2) "tubular side steps." The running boards are flat silver metallic steps, the tubular side steps are black and are slightly rounded. Check out the Mitsu web site for pictures, but make sure that you see both installed on a vehicle before making your decision because they do look very different when installed. In case anyone cares, I got the tubular side steps on my black-and-beige Limited, mostly because I have three small kids and a 5' 3" wife, and because the black side steps look much better on my truck.

    On the J.D. Power survey issue noted by ehollis, I, too, received a phone call from the dealer, although the suggestions that I received were not as brash as those by ehollis's dealer. Mine just said that if I gave them anything less than "excellent," it wouldn't count for much and that they would sure appreciate it if I would rate them as "excellent." But I have had the same treatment from my Volvo dealer. I guess that's the way of the world now since everything is done by taking polls today. I wonder if there are any dealers who read this board who might want to weigh in?
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    I would like to put side bars on my Monte for a step and to protect the side a little.

    Have you seen the tubular ones on the Mercedes ML? They fit snug near the body.

    Do the Montero bars also sit pretty close?
  • I have only seen the ML bars in pictures and I don't know if those were OEM or not. As for the Monte side steps, I'd say that they are flatter than the ML bars that I saw (the "tubular" is pretty much a misnomer on the Monte side steps) and there is probably a 1 1/2"-2" gap between the inboard side of the Monte steps and the body. I will check when I get home tonight and let you know if the gap is larger, but they don't stick out very far. I chose them over the running boards because, IMO, the chrome running boards just wouldn't look that good on my vehicle and I was told by the dealer that they have a tendency to collect ice in the winter (a consideration in Chicago). Also, the running boards fit flush up against the body, but the gap between the side steps and the body gives you the ability to put more of your foot on the step.
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    Thanks for the info. I have the beige color, thinking round black bars may be best although if I get a brush guard then I would want them to match and I am not sure if chrome or black would look better up front.
Sign In or Register to comment.