I do not think many people landed in the situation that I am in right now. I bought an Infinity FX35 5 months back, nice car, enjoying and loving it. I took it for an Oil change last Monday to the Dealer. The dealer said they changed the oil, washed my car and happily drove home. My place is about 40 miles from the dealer, while driving I thought I noticed the "Low Engine oil pressure", kind of ignored. Then reached home and while putting it in the garage noticed it again. Called the service guy at the dealer who said, may be we forget to set the computer, should not be a problem, bring it I will take a look at it. Next day when I started the engine I kept hearing this loud noise, then I was worried and drove it to another Infiniti dealer that is nearby place. Those guys looked at the oil level and were stunned to find out that there was no oil. I explained them the whole story, they said probably the tech. FORGOT to put the ENGINE OIL after he drained it. Then I called my dealer and got my car towed it over there. They all seemed like they understood. They put the engine oil, did a thorough check and now they are trying to CONVINCE me that there are no problems with the engine. I was telling them that I DO NOT WANT that car any more because it may give me problems in the future. What are my OPTIONS here? Do I have any grounds to demand a new car but not pay any more money? They are trying to sell me a new car but I have to pay more money for their MISTAKE. WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS?
Hi All Yesterday I was 95 miles from home and I had a transmission leak from the filter. I lost 3 qts of oil. I replaced the filter and put 3 qts back . The reason I looked under the hood was 2 fold. I kept stalling at my destination and the ABS light was on. The engine would stall only if I applied the brake pedal.
Six hrs later in panic mode ,having to drive 85 miles back home I found 1 solution. Remove fuse from brake and I made it home. If I but the fuse back in and press the brake pedal the engine will die .
Okay my transmission was soaked with oil. I cleaned off all oil. I checked the wiring harness and it was clean .
**In front of transmission are 2 sensors or switches. If I look at wiring diagram it shows Brake transmission safety interlock ,Brake sense switch and stop light switch all in series. Could one of these be my problem? Another thing when I step on brake pedal the dash board left and right signals light up dimly . Please let me know what you think. Thanks
I need some advice on buying a used car from a private party....The current owner of the car has it financed, and therefore the finance company holds the title. I plan to pay with cash. The purchase will be documented through a bill of sale. Ideally, when I pay the owner for the car, and take possession of the car, I would also like to have the title signed over to me immediately. Since the title is being held by the finance company, that won't be possible. Once the owner gets my money for the purchase, and "pays off" the vehicle, the finance company can release the title and mail it to me. When I receive the title, I would then have to go back to the owner to have him sign it over to me. There seems like there's a lot of unnecessary risk for me.
Is there a better way to handle a purchase transaction like this? What happens if the previous owner refuses to sign the title over to me? Any advice will be appreciated.
Whenever I accelerate, for instance after being stopped at a stop light, starting off once it gets to 20 mph it jerks and the same thing once I'm at 30 mph. It doesn't do this once on the expressway going 60 to 70 mph. I just had a complete tune up. I have 131,000 miles on it. I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but I noticed it a lot when I put regular gasoline in it but now it's does it even with super leaded gasoline. Also, just for background info, I only drive it during the winter months.
This is driving me nuts -- any help would be appreciated.
Try the Chevrolet Trailblazer Maintenance and Repair discussion - and when you post over there, perhaps mention what was was replaced for the tune-up and if it made any difference or not.
I have just purchased an '84 Porsche 944 in hopes of restoring this little gem into a driver, as it was offered to me by the dealership I work for as it was traded in on a new car ($2000) wholesale. I had to buy the car by throwing the $2000 at my general manager as the wholesalers were crawling all over it. Now I have found a huge problem with it once driving it home. Other than the lesson of "never buy a car without checking it out", I have now learned that this happens... when I down-shifted into 3rd (going into a ramp) , as I released the clutch the rear end vibrated and hopped real bad. Then I realized that I can't release the clutch at all when down-shifting to any gear, without the rear end vibration. I'm a little surprised as there is new axles and boots back there, so did this guy unload this 944 because of a huge future repair? Can anyone guess what might be happening?
i dont know if you bought it allready but whe you say a finance comp did you mean like a bank some state dodnt care about bills of sales you need to check with the state to make sure how many liens are on the car remember until it is transfered in your name by the state you are taking a gamble cant you go to the dmv or the court housed with the seller what check have you done on the car have you run a carfax is the registration in his name and address correct does he have full coverage insurance good luck let the buyer be ware
Options included: sunroof, carpet mats, cargo mat, mud flaps, and auxiliary sound system input jack [aftermarket].
Here's what I paid: Vehicle w Options $ 23,211 Dealer Proc Fee $ 249 Sub-Total $ 23,460 Rebate - (500) Net Price $ 22,940 plus taxes, tags, title
I got only the $500 rebate, forgoing the $2000 additional rebate available ... instead opting for the 0% APR, 0% down, 6-yr financing plan [even the taxes, tags, and title fees went into the loan amount ... I didn't have to write a check for anything].
Leaving my money invested, and making the $330/mo payments from that account, will return me more than twice that $2000 rebate forgone.
Business is real slow and dealer was hungry. Too early to provide feedback on the car itself.
I am looking to purchase a 12K auto lift to use on my personnel vehicles. I have looked at Rotary, Hanmecson, Complete Hydraulic. Would like a little feedback, or any recomendation.
You may want to ask in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion, and one of the mechanics who frequents that forum may be able to give expert opinion on those lifts.
I live in Illinois and leased a new car (2008) from a dealership in the area. I left the car at dealership to have some options put on the car this week. I got home last night from signing deal and realized my lease payment was way, way to high. Is their any law (in Illinois) that gives a buyer some amount of time to cancel the deal? Like 48 hours or 2 working day? Please need help quickly.
I am on the market for pick up truck and the gasoline cost is an importance factor for my purchase. I scan through the pickup truck engine and mileage , here what I found out.
Ford Ranger , 2.3L ,mpg: 21/26 Che. Colorado, 2.9L , mpg: 20/26 GM Canyon : 2.9L , mpg: No list Nissan Frontier: 2.5L , mpg: 22/25 Toyota Tacoma , 2.7L , mpg: 20/25
You can see that Ranger has the smallest engine but the mileage very much the same as bigger engine.
Why the pich-up truck (in general) has very low mileage ????? I can see the same (or smaller) engine size in the sedan and their mileage is around 30-35 range. It about 33% (or one third) more.
I don't see how to post a new message in these forums. I only see how to "reply" or "post new message" once INSIDE a thread. But how do I post a new message without being inside an existing thread?
Here's the Help link on how to create a new discussion.
Note that you can't create a new discussion in the Smart Shopper, Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences, and Maintenance & Repair boards.
And please search for an existing discussion to post in first - generally speaking you'll get a faster response and more responses in an existing discussion because lots of our members use the My Watched Items tool to track their favorite discussions and overlook new ones.
You're talking about starting a new discussion, and you do that at the board level with the Add a Discussion link you'll find there.
But it's more likely than not that the discussion you want to create already exists and people are discussing the issue or aspect of a vehicle that you want to talk about.
There are a couple of search tools over there on the right side of the page to help you find those discussions.
Browse By Vehicle - pretty straightforward, select the make and model and you'll get whisked to a list of all the discussions about that make and model.
Browse By Topic - If you're looking for discussions on tires, for example, select tires and find all the tire discussions across all brands
The Search Forum tool is the fun one. You enter keywords and with the advanced search can search within the body of all the posts to find very specific information.
Ah that's why!!! I spent 30 minutes looking for the create new thread button in the maintenance and repair forum..... doh!
I need feedback on my car, which I think is a lemon. I want to get a full refund from the dealer but I need some help and advice for my specific situation. where should I create a thread about this?
I'm looking to buy a new vehicle (XTerra) and I'm considering the stereo system. My question is: Is it more economical or generally better quality to spring for the extra factory stereo system or to get the standard one, rip it out, and replace it?I've been told that you get better sound out of upgraded after market systems as opposed to upgraded factory installed systems.
Go to the Nissan XTerra SUV discussion and type the word "stereo" into the search box at the top of the page. You'll find quite a few comments on the Xterra stereo system.
Basically, I need to know which of these scenarios sounds best for someone like me. I have an eye for older Camaro's, older BMW's, Lexus' and such. Read: early 2000 (1996 for the Camaro's) and I would like to buy one as my next car.
I can't decide if it's a better idea to buy something older, say 2000 (lowest 1998) and just pay out of pocket for anything that should go wrong, or buy something that's brand spanking new and have the warranty around to take care of things for me. I'm not sure at this point which one would be the most cost efficient. Is there any way to figure out something like that?
80k miles. Has slow drip underneath engine where engine & transmission meet. No evidence of leakage or staining around head. drips are behind engine oil pan. Very slow leak at this time, trying to trouble shoot without putting system under pressure. Oil is not contaminated. thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Hi, I drive a 2008 BMW 335i. Because I wasn't really aware of the break in procedure, so I went 135mph with my 500 miles car. I really love my car, so now I am really worried about if I did any damage to the car. I just want to know how important is the break in? Will that damage my car? If yes, is it for sure or just a maybe and what are the percentages? And if yes what kind of damages and can it be fixed? I really just want to know that if my car is fine...thanks!!! ><
I want to buy a used 2007 Toyota Corolla, its a very good price (hopefully $12,000), but has 26, 500 miles on it! I know this is not that much for a toyota - but I am concerned because it was all in one year. Could that have placed too much strain on car...worried because warrenty will not last much longer. Please help!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Hi Carman, our 05 Murano lease is up in May and we're beginning to look for our next car. We live in Upstate NY, and we'd be looking at AWD, "fairly" loaded vehicles (ie..don't need Nav or entertainment systems). We are looking at a number of cars, but want to start by know where the best lease deals are....and I'm pretty sure you'd say the most important things to consider are MF, residual and NetLease (negotiated sell price). I know a lot can affect this, but of the following choices, can you recommend where we might find the best lease deals? We're looking at: Mazda (cx7 or cx9), volvo (V50 or V70), Subaru (outback?), Ford Edge, Honda (pilot or crv) and Toyota (highlander or Rav4). I'm hoping we can go steer towards the lower priced units...but we just test drove the CX9 today...NICE car!
In regards to your check eng light. I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid and having the same problem with the check eng light. You can bring up the code by turning your ignition key three times consecutively and the code will read on your odometer/trip dash. Mine read P0441, which indicates in the Haynes book as Evap Purge Flow Monitor. I'm thinking it is just my O2 sensor, but the book indicates just what it states - Evap PURGE Flow Monitor. I have researched the Evaporative system and came across two possibilities. VSV (Vacuum Switch Valve - located near the charcoal canister - and perhaps the Purge Control Selonoid defective). I will defenitely replace my O2 sensors, which is required and reseting the PCM by unhooking the negative battery cable for about 30 minutes. If the light comes back on, I'll seek out those VSV, which is located (of course) on top of the fuel tank - what fun... Hope this helps.
I have a 2002 tracker. The daytime running lights come on , showing that the regular lights work but at night the lights don't come on. Only my high beam lights work. Help me please.
Hi. This is the first time I'm trying to buy and have been quoted a couple internet prices. How do I go about negotiating the internet prices? I'm looking to buy a 2008 Corolla and right now there is a $1000 rebate. With the new 2009 model coming in a couple months, how can I negotiate the 2008 Corolla for the best and lowest price? The quotes I've gotten appeared to be 200-600 over the invoice.
i have a 94 lincoln town car that loses speed when i approach an incline also i have to let the vehicle warm up for at least 10 minutes for the car to drive over 10 mph. what could it be and what can i do to fix the problem?
Comments
kcram - Pickups Host
I took it for an Oil change last Monday to the Dealer. The dealer said they changed the oil, washed my car and happily drove home.
My place is about 40 miles from the dealer, while driving I thought I noticed the "Low Engine oil pressure", kind of ignored. Then reached home and while putting it in the garage noticed it again.
Called the service guy at the dealer who said, may be we forget to set the computer, should not be a problem, bring it I will take a look at it.
Next day when I started the engine I kept hearing this loud noise, then I was worried and drove it to another Infiniti dealer that is nearby place.
Those guys looked at the oil level and were stunned to find out that there was no oil. I explained them the whole story, they said probably the tech. FORGOT to put the ENGINE OIL after he drained it.
Then I called my dealer and got my car towed it over there. They all seemed like they understood. They put the engine oil, did a thorough check and now they are trying to CONVINCE me that there are no problems with the engine.
I was telling them that I DO NOT WANT that car any more because it may give me problems in the future.
What are my OPTIONS here? Do I have any grounds to demand a new car but not pay any more money? They are trying to sell me a new car but I have to pay more money for their MISTAKE.
WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS?
Appreciate any suggestions
:mad:
I would also visit the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion to assess what damage may have been done.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Yesterday I was 95 miles from home and I had a transmission leak from the filter.
I lost 3 qts of oil. I replaced the filter and put 3 qts back . The reason I looked under the hood was 2 fold. I kept stalling at my destination and the ABS light was on. The engine would stall only if I applied the brake pedal.
Six hrs later in panic mode ,having to drive 85 miles back home I found 1 solution.
Remove fuse from brake and I made it home. If I but the fuse back in and press the brake pedal the engine will die .
Okay my transmission was soaked with oil. I cleaned off all oil. I checked the wiring harness and it was clean .
**In front of transmission are 2 sensors or switches.
If I look at wiring diagram it shows Brake transmission safety interlock ,Brake sense switch and stop light switch all in series. Could one of these be my problem?
Another thing when I step on brake pedal the dash board left and right signals light up dimly .
Please let me know what you think. Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Is there a better way to handle a purchase transaction like this? What happens if the previous owner refuses to sign the title over to me? Any advice will be appreciated.
how to Independent shops calculate their labor rate?
how about shops like the chain Tire and Service centers?
Thanks
john
jch92592, "Dealer vs. independent shop?" #288, 17 Dec 2007 3:40 pm
Whenever I accelerate, for instance after being stopped at a stop light, starting off once it gets to 20 mph it jerks and the same thing once I'm at 30 mph. It doesn't do this once on the expressway going 60 to 70 mph. I just had a complete tune up. I have 131,000 miles on it. I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but I noticed it a lot when I put regular gasoline in it but now it's does it even with super leaded gasoline. Also, just for background info, I only drive it during the winter months.
This is driving me nuts -- any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Options included: sunroof, carpet mats, cargo mat, mud flaps, and auxiliary sound system input jack [aftermarket].
Here's what I paid:
Vehicle w Options $ 23,211
Dealer Proc Fee $ 249
Sub-Total $ 23,460
Rebate - (500)
Net Price $ 22,940 plus taxes, tags, title
I got only the $500 rebate, forgoing the $2000 additional rebate available ... instead opting for the 0% APR, 0% down, 6-yr financing plan [even the taxes, tags, and title fees went into the loan amount ... I didn't have to write a check for anything].
Leaving my money invested, and making the $330/mo payments from that account, will return me more than twice that $2000 rebate forgone.
Business is real slow and dealer was hungry. Too early to provide feedback on the car itself.
Enjoy your new ride!
kcram - Pickups Host
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Ford Ranger , 2.3L ,mpg: 21/26
Che. Colorado, 2.9L , mpg: 20/26
GM Canyon : 2.9L , mpg: No list
Nissan Frontier: 2.5L , mpg: 22/25
Toyota Tacoma , 2.7L , mpg: 20/25
You can see that Ranger has the smallest engine but the mileage very much the same as bigger engine.
Why the pich-up truck (in general) has very low mileage ????? I can see the same (or smaller) engine size in the sedan and their mileage is around 30-35 range. It about 33% (or one third) more.
kcram - Pickups Host
Note that you can't create a new discussion in the Smart Shopper, Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences, and Maintenance & Repair boards.
And please search for an existing discussion to post in first - generally speaking you'll get a faster response and more responses in an existing discussion because lots of our members use the My Watched Items tool to track their favorite discussions and overlook new ones.
But it's more likely than not that the discussion you want to create already exists and people are discussing the issue or aspect of a vehicle that you want to talk about.
There are a couple of search tools over there on the right side of the page to help you find those discussions.
Browse By Vehicle - pretty straightforward, select the make and model and you'll get whisked to a list of all the discussions about that make and model.
Browse By Topic - If you're looking for discussions on tires, for example, select tires and find all the tire discussions across all brands
The Search Forum tool is the fun one. You enter keywords and with the advanced search can search within the body of all the posts to find very specific information.
So what it is you're looking for a discussion on?
I need feedback on my car, which I think is a lemon. I want to get a full refund from the dealer but I need some help and advice for my specific situation. where should I create a thread about this?
Lemon Law Questions
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I can't decide if it's a better idea to buy something older, say 2000 (lowest 1998) and just pay out of pocket for anything that should go wrong, or buy something that's brand spanking new and have the warranty around to take care of things for me. I'm not sure at this point which one would be the most cost efficient. Is there any way to figure out something like that?
Thanks for any help you can give!
Purchasing Used Vehicles may have some threads of interest about ownership costs.
I got great advice in the Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions discussion and recommend that you post there.
You might enjoy reading about this controversial motorcycle engine theory as well.
General Questions about Leasing Vehicles
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! ES
Also, check the vehicle specific leasing discussions:
Mazda CX-7 Lease Questions
Mazda CX-9 Lease Questions
Volvo V50 Lease Questions
Volvo V70 Lease Questions
Subaru Outback Lease Questions
Ford Edge Lease Questions
Honda Pilot Lease Questions
Honda CR-V Lease Questions
Toyota Highlander Lease Questions
Toyota RAV4 Lease Questions
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks in advance for any help/advice.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper