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Toyota Camry Starting / Stalling Questions



  • the back-up wire was cut off in the rear trunk under the lid on the left side, i guess.
  • tywitywi Posts: 10
    I stopped my car and shut the engine off. When I tried to started it I had starting noise everthing was quiet. All the lights were on. After playing with the key in the ignition turning it on and off many times , and put the car in neutral and moving it a little I shut everything off. I put the key back in the ignition and turn the key and the car started. Any ideas I what part may need to be replaced?
  • satishkapoorsatishkapoor Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    My camry just started this issue,
    It starts and runs fine if there is no stop for miles. After shutting down and to restart it takes some cranking time to start. When restarts I have to press the gas pedal otherwise Idle is very low and tries to cut off, then it runs OK.
    After shutting down for an hour or so it starts fine. Even burried in the snow for two days it started fine.
    It had cut off at Red light after driving some miles few times, and restarts after some cranking time.
    I have added Gas addidive for dry gas.
    Temparature Gauge shows very low Temprature. Stop and go traffic temp gauge may go to less then half.
    Battery is one year old.
    Any suggestion Please
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    Temp gage being low indicates you need new thermostat. As engine doesn't warm up enough, fuel mix is going to be rich, maybe too much so. Replace the thermostat and run the car for a while, preferably on highway.
  • Our 5 year old put the vanity light on Friday am, hubby never saw it...Sat night I shut the vanity light off. Sunday morning we moved the car to plow snow, put it back in place. Sunday afternoon it wouldn't start, so we jumped it & let it run for a half our BUT NEVER MOVED THE CAR. Monday morning, car started BUT WOULDN"T MOVE. No matter if the car was in PARK, DRIVE or REVERSE, the RPMs never budged over idling when you stepped on the gas (even put the gas pedal to the floor).

    So, is there some kind of "restart" button on the electronic throttle? Is there any way that the loss of power & jump could've affected the throttle...what else could cause the car to not move when stepping on the gas pedal?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited February 2010
    If the battery was just discharged 'just' due to the vanity light being on, then it wouldn't have started Sunday morning. I suspect that wasn't necessarily the root cause of your problem, and your battery may be going. I've already replaced mine on a 2007.

    Buy a cheap (10-20 bucks) volt/ohm meter at an auto parts chain or radio shack. Can be either digital or analog. Measure the voltage of your battery as it sits in driveway. I suspect it's less than the 13-14 volts, which would indicate that the battery is undercharged. If it is discharged, then I'd suggest having it replaced, since it isn't long for the world anyhow.

    You might have other problems, but you need to verify first that your battery is good. Let us know what you find.
  • It's possible that the jump etc triggered something with the built-in security system that will prevent the car from being taken if proper security steps haven't been followed. Some of these elements don't work on my car any more, so I don't remember details, but it would be worth a quick call to a Toyota dealer to see if they can't quickly tell you if there is a security element keeping the car from moving. I remember something about a code having to be punched into my cassette player to unlock the system. It may not be anything mechanical, so it is worth checking with a phone call before you start dropping money on it.
  • Couple of years back I got Timing Belt, WaterPump etc replaced since then, Temp gauge on Highway shows low but stop and go it gets upto little less then half. Changing the thermostat is no problem I will.
    You might be correct, I smelled Gas when it started after stalling..
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Pull your plugs, to look at how they are burning.
  • mojowomynmojowomyn Posts: 1
    Hello. The ignition cylinder lock was not turning past acc. Even when I removed the cylinder, the key wouldnt turn. While waiting for the new replacement part to come in, the battery went dead, and I had to replace it. The car has power now. Today I got the part - a new cylindar and two keys. The keys are transponder keys with a little metal plate on the key ring with a number. I tried to reprogram the new keys to match the engine, but it didnt work. Does anyone know what I do now? Can I reprogram the new keys, or do I need to get the car computer updated? Thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    "I believe" that the dealership needs to hook up a service computer, to the cars computer, to program the new keys into the security section of the computer.

    At least that is what needed to be done for our 2007 when we added additional keys w/keyfobs.
  • c5t4rc5t4r Posts: 13
    I have a 1998 Camry with about 75,000 miles on it. When I start it up for the first time each day it'll idle rough, the RPMs will be low. In extreme cases I'll have to give it a little gas to keep it running. There aren't any "Check Engine" lights or anything.

    After it's warmed up it runs fine. I can shut it off and restart it and it'll idle fine.

    I've noticed, maybe a coincidence, that if the car is kept in the garage the problem isn't as bad or non-existent.

    Some people I've talked to said it could be anything from an O2 sensor or a coolant temperature sensor....thoughts?
  • tlshafertlshafer Posts: 1
    Hi, we had this exact same issue with our 2007 camry...the light was left on and we needed to jump it, after jumping it, we turned it on, and everything seemed fine, but when we went to drive...nothing! It wont accelerate! Did you ever find out what was wrong or how did you fix it? Your help is greatly appreciated! We have no idea what to do and we dont want to pay to get it towed if we can fix it ourselves! Please any advice! Thanks.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    My mother's Camry starts and runs fine for a while...maybe half an hour but then starts to stall when I slow down. The tach goes from 0 to 2 and then back down again. I have to put it in neutral when I slow down and keep my foot on the pedal in order to keep it from stalling when I come to a stop sign etc. Any clues?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    How many miles on the vehicle, and when is the last time it was tuned up? What is the maintenance history of this vehicle?
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    edited July 2010
    I have a 93 Camry , 4 cyl. and after running the motor till it got to normal running temperture, Something in the Distributor unit would short out and cause the tach to flick like it was going to stall, but it kept running, and I had a 94 Camry that did the same thing but it would stall out and not start till the Distributor unit cool off and would only run till Distri. got hot again and stop running, I found out both of these cars it was the Distributor unit shorting out when it got up to a certain Temp. So I when to Advance Auto Parts and bought the whole Distributor unit for Approx. $145. and and installed it, in place of the old one, on both of my Camrys and they run great after that. If your problem is not this then it may be your oxygen sensor not working right.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Or his problem could be bad plug, or a plug wire, or bad fuel, or bad fuel pump, or one of the many sensors, clogged air filter, bad/low voltage, or, or, or, or, or....perhaps one of hundreds of things.

    We don't know anything about the status of the typical normal maintenance items, at this point.

    It's like going to the Dr and saying " I don't feel well", and expecting a recommendation as to what the Dr is going to do to fix you up. Don't need open heart surgery, when aspirin or a finger splint would do.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    It has around 100,000 on it and has had all maintenance done. My dad kept it up really well. I have heard about others with this problem. It had a tune-up about 6 mo. ago.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    If you do a search using Google you will see that others have this problem. This fella seems to have the same problem my mother does and Toyota is aware of the issue. Below is what one guy says about his problem.

    "I am a new member and have been experiencing difficulties with my 2001 Camry since the beginning of November. When I take my foot off of the accelerator and begin to apply the brake the engines stalls. There is a bit of warning as I see the idle bounce between 250-750 before the engine shuts down. This happens sometimes 1-2 times a week after about 20-30 minutes of driving. The speed that it dies varies anywhere from 20-35 miles per hour. If I put my foot on the gas (after the car is in nuetral) it doesn't stall, but it drives roughly. The huge problem is that I can't brake after the car dies and I have come close to getting into numerous accidents. I have had it in to two different dealers who cannot replicate the problem. I keep hearing that everyhting is fine and then it dies again while I'm driving it. I am extremely frustrated with the fact that no one can fix the problem. My fuel injectors were just cleaned and the ECM was replaced - obviously not the problem since it continues to happen. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks."

    There recalling some years but not my Moms.
  • rox1rox1 Posts: 2
    I have had the same problem for 2 months now. Took it to a Toyota dealership and they couldn't find the problem. They are guessing it is the O2 sensor. Replaced that and the same day it stalls again. Let me know if you've fixed the problem.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    If your Camry s the 4 cyl. motor, like mine than I had the same problem, And what it was is there was something in the Distributor unit shorting out, with so many pickup coils and etc in the Distributor unit, You can not seperate it to find which electrical part is shorting out and making the engine miss or stall out, or the Tachometer flickers a few RPM, And it shorts out off and on, So that makes it very hard to find the problem, So I bought the whole distributor unit with a lifetime warranty, at Auto Zone or Advance auto parts for approx. $145.00 put it on and now it runs perfect. It is very easy to install, And watch out cause the Toyota Dealership price was over $300.00 for the same unit if you buy it from them.
  • rox1rox1 Posts: 2
    Thanks, mine is a V6 camry. I will look into it.
  • Hi, all. Thanks for the valuable information. I, too, started experiencing the same problem with my 2002 Camry about 6 months ago – whenever my car reaches a stop and I try to accelerate, it dies on me. I, then, have to restart the ignition and press hard on the accelerator for the car to move.

    Just yesterday, while on a busy Atlanta interstate, my car stalled 8 times in approximately a 6 mile commute. Needless to say, I literately started 'sweating bullets' since I came very close to getting involved in several car accidents. Currently, my mechanic is diagnosing my vehicle. Because of this problem, I seriously have begun to lose confidence in my once reliable car.
  • My 2001 Camry sat in the garage for about 3 weeks without being cranked. I had to jump it off a couple of times and it did fine for a day or two. Since then, jumping off does nothing. When I turn the key, there is a faint click in the steering column, no noise from the engine compartment and the starter does nothing. I have pulled the starter and had it tested at the auto parts store and it passed. It fired nicely on the diagnostic machine. I have replaced the battery but that doesn't change anything. I still hear the little click and nothing more. I have checked all fuses and they are fine. Is this an ignition switch problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited September 2010
    Check the starter (ST) relay, and also check there is no corrosion on the battery terminal connector (including up where the connector attaches to the wire). Are you sure the battery is okay? Sounds like you switched batteries, but are you sure it has been tested and has about 14volts on it as charged up?
  • I took the battery out of my Honda Pilot and tried it in the Camry. It works well for the Pilot, but I haven't had the voltage tested. I just assumed, and you know what they say about that. Come to think of it, when I pulled the battery from the Pilot, I had just cranked it and moved it from the street to the driveway, so it hadn't had time to recharge. But shouldn't jumping the Camry from a running Pilot eliminate the battery as the cause? I've tried jumping with no success, even after leaving the jumpers on for 5 minutes.

    Thanks for the advice on the relay and connections. The connectors look good, but I will double check them specifically. I have not tried the starter relay.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited September 2010
    If a battery in a vehicle is bad, like having a bad cell, then jumping it does not necessarily give it the voltage it needs to start. Jumper cables are of different cable thickness and quality, and a thinner jumper cable can actually just act as a big resistor (and get warm), and unable to drive up the voltage on a battery with a bad cell.

    Many auto parts chains will check your battery for you free of charge, and choose the ones who do a 'load' test where they check the batteries ability to not only hold the correct voltage, but also to drive the maximum amount of current needed.

    Get to the point where you know for certain that your battery, and cable connectors are clean and tight. If you still have the problem, then check the relay.
  • I have a 2003 Camry.It starts good but it won't stay running unless I keep foot on the accelerator.I replaced the plugs.But still the same problem.Also the check engine light has come on.Anybody have similar problem please help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    With a 2003 Camry, take it somewhere to have the error codes read from the computer (which is why the check engine light is on). You can look those error codes up on the internet, and that will give you an idea where the problem is.

    Many auto parts chains, will do that for free.
  • I had a mobile mechanic come over and put a new battery on the car last night but with no luck. I could hear clicking in the relays mounted next to the battery. His opinion is that the problem is the ignition switch, but he can't fix it until next week. I'm willing to give it a try myself, but I wanted to get your thoughts on his thoughts first. Does the switch sound possible/probable? Is there an online DIY for replacing it? I haven't been able to find one, as it doesn't seem to be a very common problem.
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