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Buick Rainier Repairs



  • icemaniceman Posts: 21
    I have a 2004 Buick Rainier CXL 4.2L inline 6cyc. 2 wd. I purchase my buick rainier about 2 years ago with about 37,000 miles on it and luckly I purchased the extended G.M.P.P. warrenty which was good for 30,000 miles. Since then I have had to have my air bag sensor on passenger side replaced which started the whole problem of it now sagging on the back passenger side., WHICH IT NEVER DID THAT UNTIL I HAD THE SENSOR REPLACED it had about 39,000 miles on it. Then I took my rainier in to have the front end aligned because I had to replace the two front tires and the service tech came back and told me that the front tie rods where messed up and needed to be replaced so I took it to the dealership and they agreed and they replaced it under warrenty and they said that was normal it only had 41,000. I then had to have my drive shift replaced at about 46,000 miles. And I have had to have my fuel filler neck replaced at about 46,000 miles also. I had to have my rack and pinion replaced at about 57,000 miles again the dealership said that was normal "I disagree". I now have about 68,000 miles on my rainier. Since about 39,000 miles I have had the problem with the whole rough idling and stalling out issue. At first the dealership said it was clogged fuel injectors so I paid out of my own pocket because it is not covered under warrenty the expense of having my injectors cleaned which did work for about 2 weeks. I took it back again and they ran test after test and said it was my fuel filter and again I paid for it out of my pocket because again it was not covered under warrenty. And again it lasted about 2 weeks and it started acting up. I had contacted Buick customer service with little to no help. Finally, it stalled out and tripped the check engine light, so I took it in to the dealership and they said the code it showed was a bad crankshaft sensor so they replaced it and it worked for about 2 weeks. Again I called Buick customer service and no help there. Each time it stalls out and dies it reads on the dash "LOW OIL PRESSURE." I can then put the rainier in park and restart the rainier just fine. When it start's the whole rough idling you can watch the rpm gauge jump from about 300 rpm's to 800 rpm's. I had my local service manager look at it and he seen the rpm gauge jump around and he said i quote "THAT IS PERFECTLY NORMAL BECAUSE IT IS UNDER STRESS." the rainier was just setting still in park. I have had the rainier completely die on me at red lights with out warning that has happened to me twice in the last 5 months. I have contacted the Buick customer service with no luck and/or no help. Now I'm out of my warrenty and hoping it doesn't happen to my again but I know it is a matter of time because it it still idling rough. So please help me. If you have any suggestion's or idea's, short of trading it off which I'm thiniking very seriously about doing for a none GM product maybe a Nissan or Ford. Because after this experience I can see why GM has the reputation it has about poor quailty and even worse service departments. I will not own another GM product and the sad thing is I worked for GM and I believed in the whole brand loyalty but not anymore..... :( :confuse: :lemon:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Iceman,
    I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you have been experiencing an issues with your vehicle. Can you please email me with more information so I can look into it further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • dmrjlrdmrjlr Posts: 3
    Has anyone had the same problem? Any suggestions? Please advise. When I shut the truck off for more than 2 hrs the trucks rear end lowers? When I start it up the truck the compressor raises the rear end. Are there sensors in the rear? Thank you for ant thoughts or recommendations.
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    Guys (and gals). I had an '88 Regal that the odometer went whacky on me. When I pulled the dash apart, there was a sticker on it for United Electronics in Syracuse Ny. I called, and the Tech quoted me $150 to R&R it. I shipped it out, in a couple weeks they shipped it back and worked fine. Now, this was in 1995, so I don't know what the charges would be. Here is their info:

    Automotive Electronics
    5705 Enterprise Parkway
    East Syracuse, NY 13057
    Toll-free: 800-448-0944
    Phone: 315-446-5570
    Toll-free Fax: 800-701-3874
    Fax: 315-446-2434
    Keith Martin, General Manager
    Dale Frier, Operations/Logistics Manager
    Automotive Parts
  • tcharles28tcharles28 Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem with my 2004 buick rainier at approximately 88,000 miles.. I took it to the dealer and they said the switch to unlock the vents is located under the steering wheel.

    They quoted me a price over $3000 to fix it. I opted out of the fix last year and this year I heard a very strange noise coming out of the right side floor area of my car while driving it.

    Strange I am getting some air (not like i did when I first purchased it) out of the fronts vents. I guess I'm hoping it will reset itself.
  • mom0423mom0423 Posts: 15
    I am the sole owner of this Rainier, which was suggested to me by my brother who was a GM dealer technician for a number of years. Overall, I have not had major problems with it. I took it in a number of times for the rear "kick" by the GM dealership admitted there wasn't a resolution to the issue yet. I recently had major work done to the front end, but that's another issue for another time. Now, however, I'm having a problem with part of the dashboard cluster. Speedometer and tachometer work fine, the rest - including the driver recognition and gear acknowledgement, are not working. I took it to an Auto Zone to have them use a diagnostic guage, but instead the guy replaced the fuse to the panel and everything worked fine. Next day I start the car and it fails again. What is blowing the fuse??? Due to the GM failure, I have no decent dealership anywhere nearby to take the vehicle to. Seriously. I need some answers and GM isn't responding. Any ideas???
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Mom0423,
    Did you ever take the vehicle back to AutoZone and tell them about the fuse they put in? Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • lisa1012lisa1012 Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Buick Rainier that has numerous problems. I have read lots of posts about the electrical problems with speed odometer, mine is not working at all!! With all the problems, I can't understand why Buick does not have a recall in regards to this issue. In regards to the A/C unit, my front vents do not blow any air. It will only flow from the vents at my feet. Does anyone else have this problem, and what were the repair costs? Another ongoing problem is hesitation on acceleration. This has been going on for months. I have taken it to several auto repair places, one said to replace the fuel filter, I did, problem not solved. Another repair place suggested that I flush the transmission and get a tune up, no luck there either. I have had numerous problems with this car and have spent several thousand dollars on repairs. This is the worse car I have ever owned!!!! Any one else with similar problems, especially with the hesitation on acceleration, please let me know. I need suggestions!!! Thanks
  • lisa1012,
    I have a 2004 Rainer with about 70,000 miles.
    I have a very similar problem with the AC. It will not blow out of the chest level vents but will blow out of the floor and defrost vents. It also causes the engine RPM's to drop and nearly die when idling at a standstill.

    Any idea what the problem is? I'd like to know if it is a simple fix.

  • lisa1012lisa1012 Posts: 2
    I had one person look at it and told me I needed an actuator, apparently there are 4 on the car. I had a tune up done and after it was done the air was not blowing out of the front vents. They agreed to repair my car for free, because I feel they did something to the air, it was working fine when I took the car in. They replaced one actuator and told me it blew the other one out when they put the one in. So, they would not repair my car. I have no idea what it will cost to repair it.. I have noticed that the car idles, and it actually cut off on me one day when I had the air on and was sitting still.. So now I mostly ride around without the air on and its nearly 100 here in Columbia, SC. Yesterday my rear view mirror came loose and had to repair it myself. This car has been a constant problem over the last year and I wonder what will happen next. My neighbor has the same vehicle and her speedodometer does not work either..
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    ".....I have noticed that the car idles, and it actually cut off on me one day when I had the air on and was sitting still.. "

    While no expert, I would have the actuator replaced. If it is blown, it may be causing a vaccuum leak which will cause the engine to run a little rough, and can cause it to stall.

    As for the speedo, the entire instrument cluster is one unit. Check electronic shops in your area to see if the can repair them. I had this happen to a 1988 Regal. The dealer wanted $350 for a remanufactured unit, local boneyards wanted $250 for a used one w/ no guarantee. When I pulled the unit out myself (I was going to have a friend look at it) there was a sticker on it for a electronic company. I called them, they told me $149 to refurbish it. Another $20 to ship it to them, and problem solved. I posted the name on another post here for the Rainier, but not sure if it got removed as SPAM.
  • It's about 100 degrees here and getting into my 2005 Buick Rainier is not a pleasant experience. We turn the A/C on and it blows hot air. It has to run for quite a while to get it to cool, but once it does decide to cool, it's cold. I read in another post the following..." If it sits for less than 4 hours and the temperature increases by less than 20 degrees you have to run it at a steady speed for a few miles/minutes for it to recognize that the increase in temperature at the sensor is real and not caused by the sun shining on the vehicle." Sometimes this is over 5 minutes. So if my A/C temp wasn't managed by a computer, I would be cool. How do I override this?
  • mbowlesmbowles Posts: 2
    My 2004 Buick Rainier has rough idle sometimes.and cuts off at red lights.Any help with this problem..Thanks anybody.
  • mbowlesmbowles Posts: 2
    My 2004 Buick Rainier has rough idle and also cuts off at times.Any answers.Please help.
  • Hey Iceman, My Buick Rainier did the same thing I changed the cam sensor and crank senor and it still idled rough and would stall. So for giggles I changed the fuel filter and what would you know it runs normal again. You will need to have the check engine light reset though other wise it will still say bad cam and crank sensor. I hope this fixes your problem as well. good luck.

    Russbret from Vermont State :)
  • I was told by a mechanic to watch the fuel filter, to change it every 4 oil changes the whole fuel system is very touchy and will cause the engine light to come on and say you may have a faulty sensor which in some cases you may but start with fuel filter first its only $16.00, also when doing routine maintenance its always good to inspect the brake pads and rotors, also he told me that the Rainier is known for going threw front wheel bearings ,I have just replaced my rotors and bearings and I have had my Rainier for 1 yr. But it also has 96000 miles on it. I am not sure how many times the first owner changed it.
  • My '05 Rainier just started having strange and disturbing problems within the past month. The fuel gauge registers E when it shouldn't, and always after I've just filled up. Warning light comes on along with the DIC low fuel msg. At other times, the gauge just bounces around. Thank God I haven't been stranded yet because I avoid driving whenever possible and don't let the tank get low. In searching for info, I've discovered this is a common problem with all the sister SUV's (Envoy, Trailblazer, etc.) of this age. Although out of warranty, it only has 47,000 miles. There are thousands of complaints about this identical problem. Seems the fuel level sensor is the culprit (along with instrument panel problems) and that the Trailblazer owners have been quite vocal about it for years. Probably because there are (or were) so many more of them. Sometimes the check engine light comes on too and on rare occasions, the DIC completely blacks out. Seems that there has been no recall and many owners have had to shell out a lot of money to fix what appears to be a case of faulty parts. I don't think I should have to pay for this repair.

    I'd like to add that I'm a middle aged woman who for the 1st time ever, intentionally sought a GM product to maybe help save jobs there. Buick seemed to have the best reputation I could afford at GM. I need reliable transportation and thought that coughing up the extra money for this vehicle would buy me that. I plan to push this issue for some resolution. It is implausible that the service dept. at the largest GM dealership in Hickory, NC didn't acknowledge this common problem when I called them today, but seems that NHTSA has received lots of complaints. Since Mariah from GM customer service regularly monitors this site, my vin# is 5GADT13S352177361 and I shouldn't have to pay to diagnose what you already know, the fuel level sensor is bad...and the instrument cluster is going soon!
  • Dear wake1up, it sounds like the beginning of the wire assembly unit challenges?
    I have a 2004 and I have no use from the Battery, Hot Engine, Fuel, etc. The Rainier is a great vehicle with about 5-7 flaws. If you have the extended warranty then any dealer will help to eat the costs. The people from GM monitor and get involved to help pacify or assist vehicle owner to get into touch with a dealer. If you have good relations with a dealer you are 20% the way. Be ready for a long journey I wish you the best.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Wake1up,
    I did check your VIN that you provided and it didn't show any recalls currently at this time. I can have an agent look at your situation further for you. I will need you to email me your contact information, current mileage, dealership and best time to contact you. The agent is going to require that you get the vehicle diagnosed. That is something I cannot waive, but you can talk to the agent about it. You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • I also have this same fuel gauge frustration in my 2005 low mileage Ranier. We spend the extra money thinking will will have Lexus comparable reliability. The vehicle drives nicely but I have learned and should have known this truck is full of their economy line parts. I am very disappointed that a fuel gauge of all things is a wasted effort of quality Engineering and design. I believe they know about this but will never admit to it because people like you and I will shop with a North American bias and will not make good on their known blunders. We are presently in the market to replace the Ranier and the Enclave has made our short list. Now I will do my research intentionally trying to find the best vehicle as opposed to being loyal. When I know I have done something wrong in my business I will hopefully get to my customer before he discovers it. Amazing...... what the results are with this type of Customer Service. This is not just a fuel gauge issue I have had to replace sensors, door latch, tie rod ends etc. I almost believe each and every part is a profit center competing against each other. Good Luck and I look forward to reading the GM comments.
  • I purchased my 2006 Rainier in Sept 2006 as a "Program Car" with 10,000 miles on it and it now has approximately 51,000 miles on and I couldn't be happier with any other SUV. I can't believe all of the complaints that I have read on this website by others that own that fine SUV. I had similiar trouble with the fuel gage, but a four hour stay, as an "out patient" at a reputable GM dealer replaced the gage. I just spent over $1100 to repair an oil leak on the front differential, but those things happen and I am not going to cry about it. I can't believe that so many Rainier owners think that since they purchased a quality vehicle that they should have 100% assurance there would never be part that has to be replaced.
  • With all due respect hmiller2. You are exactly the person the domestics prey upon. You have paid prematurely and gladly accept the cost for repairs based on strategic planning by the Big 3. I agree a vehicle should not last forever but we know brake and steering components are designed for an extremely high level of reliance. I believe if I am roaring down a Michigan Highway at 75 miles an hour and I run out of fuel in an area where I cannot bail out is a very serious issue to me and my family. I have been hit twice on major Hwys in the U.S. due to drivers following too close.

    By the way I forgot to mention the mirrors also will not adjust properly and both of them have been replaced once before. This gets me thinking........ does this vehicle qualify for the lemon law?????
  • bob192bob192 Posts: 19
    Just wait till the speedometer quits and you pay 700 for a replacement. There have been enough failures to identify this as a GM defect. They have to do better than this if they are to win back customers. There is a very competitive marketplace today and much more info about reliability than years ago.
  • I haven't posted anything for a few weeks, but now the engine temperature gauge strangely drops from the midrange to the lowest/cold start reading while driving. Guess that's better than going to the overheating area. And the battery power gauge seems to be bouncing around a bit. Maybe I just imagined that one...a few times. Thanks, Buick for responding, but I don't have really have the money to go to the shop right now. Guess the speedometer is next to go while I'm out job hunting. And the false empty problem only seems to occur when the tank is full, so I don't fill up anymore. What fun. Thanks fellow Rainier/Envoy/Trailblazer owners for educating me. It's not just the fuel sensor, it's the instrument cluster too.
  • kyredkyred Posts: 1
    I have an '04 AWD Rainier and it feels like its stuck in AWD all the time. I have taken it to the dealership several times and they have no idea what the problem is. Has anyone else experienced this? :confuse:
  • If you are stuck in 4WD, It will be very difficult to back up on dry pavement while turning your wheels. The wheels on the inside of the turn want to travel a shorter distance than the outside wheels and the 4WD won't let that happen. I have a 2006 Rainier and that happened just after purchasing the SUV in 2006 and more recently with over 50,000 miles, it happened again. Both times they replaced the Actuator 67282 (The FP Number, whatever that is, was 89059278). The first repair was under warranty. This last time, total for labor and parts, $618.81 at a GM garage. Good Luck
  • In Response to:
    I didn't have an issue with it being locked in four wheel drive. My issue is when I am at a stop light, I get a "bang" action that feels like someone tapped into my bumper even though nobody did. It is a quick jerking action. No engine issues or loss of power.

    **We are experiencing the same issue. We just bought our 2004 Raineer 2 months ago. No other problems. It just does the thumping/tapping/knocking sound when we slow down or after we come to a complete stop. Its happening sometimes now when we turn as well. Have you found a fix? Thanks!
  • I am not a mechanic, but the "bang" when stopped sounds like a idle setting problem to me. I have experienced something similar with my 2006. During cold weather, at the first couple stop lights after starting out with a cold engine, it is as if it is ideling too fast and you experience the "bang." Once the engine is warm it is OK. I don't know what it should be, but you might like to check and note the rpm on the tach when it is doing it. That information might help your mechanic.
  • I was paying extra close attention today and it does feel like it's coming from the middle to the rear of the vehicle. I don't think mine is temperature related. It kind of just feels like the car is "settling" with a knocking sound when I am slowing down or are at a stop. Another person described it as someone running into the back of you and you feeling a thump. I would agree with that. My husband noticed it doing it more last night while he was making turns and still at the same times I usually hear it. Some days it's worse than others, but it definitely does it everyday.
  • Its the front differential slipping in and out of AWD. I just bought a 2007 Rainier and it was doing it pretty bad when I first bought the car. It usually didn't do it for the first 10 mins of driving because the fluid hasn't heated up yet which effects its viscosity. I took it back to the dealer that sold me the car and they told me they had "fixed" the problem by changing the fluid. It definitely did reduced the frequency and severity of the knocking but I still notice it sometimes mainly when I'm slowing down. I have a "60 day warranty" on the car and I think I'm going to take it back and tell them if they can't fix the underlying issue of the problem, I'm going to return the car. Hope this helps.
  • lithium1lithium1 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I bought my car iin 2005 with 11k. Here I am today with 177k and 5 years later of pounding up and down I-75 being from MI. I have several problems wrong with my car as well. When I am at a stoplight and idle for 5 or 10 seconds I get the little bang or clunk in the rear. It pulls my car down a hair for a split second cause I can fell it. My Gage cluster is pretty much trashed, nothing works correctly on it anymore. I do not know about anyone else but I have replaced more front sway bar links than I have brakes. WTF is going on with that??? Now I am having CD player issues. It is the Bose 6 disc changer but now it plays cd's or songs once and a while. Sometimes it will play 1 song but it goes to song 2 and kicks the disc out of the player and says check cd. I have driven this car to hell and back just would like to keep the ole gal a little bit longer.
  • alexisandjamiealexisandjamie Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I was reading on here quite a bit and someone had mentioned to make sure the tire pressure stayed up where it should be. Seemed a little ridiculous. However, we did it and a lot of the noises have stopped or happen a lot less frequently. The problem you are having with the idle issue is exactly what we are experiencing. It's the weirdest thing. I hope it's just a nuisance and not something that's really going to affect anything. I haven't had issues with anything electrical so far. We only use an am/fm transmitter with our ipod, but I notice everything gets really hot. We bought an extended warranty so I assume we will start having electrical issues when we are out of warranty.
  • In the beginning this was a great vehicle. I have the kick at stops, much like everyone else. Then came the front end troubles. After sinking a ton into fixing the right axle now I have to fix the left one. As I save to do so, then the instrument panel dies. This is the last straw. I've just been laid off and this is not the time of year to have car repair bills. I got pulled over today for going over the speed limit and the officer did not ticket me because he said he'd heard that these vehicles have been known for this. Buick, get your act together. With the auto industry in this predicament you can't charge me $100 to diagnose a problem you know is an ongoing issue. I have Hondas and I can tell you they do a much better job of recalling their vehicles. I truly cannot afford a $700 instrument panel right now. Period.
  • I TOTALLY agree with you. I've had ENOUGH of shelling out money to have this vehicle repaired. I was just laid off from my job and I can't afford to keep sinking money into this vehicle. They know this is an issue and the officer who pulled me over (due to NO speedometer) said he's seen other ones in the same situation. GM - get with the program! RECALL IT!!!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    the officer who pulled me over (due to NO speedometer)

    I'm curious. How did the officer know you had no speedometer?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • When he pulled me over I explained that my speedometer wasn't working and that's when he told me he'd seen several of the same vehicles with this problem. But he was good and advised me to get it fixed or the next time I may not be so lucky.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Oh! I misunderstood you to mean that he pulled you over because of your speedometer.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Are they all awd vehicles
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    No, they were available in rwd
  • mom0423mom0423 Posts: 15
    This problem has been going on for some time now. But I've come to the conclusion that I don't believe it's the instrument panel itself. I think something is telling the panel that there is a problem when there isn't. Such would explain why it would say a transmission problem, or a check engine situation or a oil pressure issue. GM, which I have now renamed "BS" refuses to address my problem because they say I did not have it serviced at a GM dealership. Ok, let's think about this: GM closes almost every dealership within 50 miles of where I live. I call the only dealership which is within that range and they tell me I have to leave the vehicle there and they do not provide a loaner. So - GM, how am I supposed to have the vehicle repaired?? I take it to a local guy who has a great reputation and you refuse to accept that as qualified service? I will NEVER buy a GM product again because of this. I bought this vehicle instead of a Honda (which I am thoroughly regretting now). My kids have Hondas, all with over 100,000 + miles and still running strong (knock on wood). I have a '92 Honda with over 340,000 miles on it and it is more reliable and I don't have payments still to make on it!! If anyone has any advice I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.
  • In my case the right rear air bag had dry rotted and intermittently would sag. SOMETIMES till I heard a thump where it had bottomed out. Destroyed the rear shocks and replaced only one, after changing out the right rear airbag sensor height adjuster. Big mistake. First replace airbags in pairs.

    Yes you change out the airbag suspension. There is a company that sells aftermarket changeover kits. But they are also testing a new airbag. Not sure if it is available yet.
  • Replace BOTH rear air bags or change over to springs. YOU GOT GOOD AGE OUT OF THEM!
  • bobvillarainybobvillarainy Posts: 7
    edited August 2011
    Hey, for my two cents worth, I have started having an issue with my 2004 Rainier, 65,000 miles, in refernece to fuel gauge. Interestingly I had a Ford Explorer before the Rainy and through expensive unnecessary parts replacement for a similar issue I presume for myself, and possibly several others of you may find you have a bad slosh module. In my case it no longer fools the gauge in driving gas moving aroud the tank and now it tells me I am on empty when I am not. It would be cheaper to go to the mechanic and say "hey for **** and giggles, would you change my slosh module. It isn't that expensive of a part, if I recall.
  • In reference to Differential "Thumping": I have to note that the 4x4 differential fluid is noted to be replaced in the unit for "NORMAL" driving EVERY 50,000 miles. For Hilly, excessive 4X4 use, and IN TOWN driving this should be done more often. When the problem occurs, and it is NOT THE TIRE pressure or the Actuator Motor, then you need to change the differential fluid with GM (ONLY) Blue differential fluid drive it for about 100 mile drain it and refill. ALSO I was advised during this 100 mile flush to run the vehicle in reverse driving a figure 8 several times during this period. All I know is I did this and then replaced the acutuator motor and everything has been fine with the 4x4 since.

    In reference to the tranny, I would also recommend increasing the maintenance schedule in hilly and city driving conditions to no more then 36k miles. I do all drive train fluids at this frequency, now that I didn't listen to my Tranny man and found out the hard way. He charges me $75 for a trany svc, including filter and Syn Fluids, and smiles when I admit he was right. All DT fluids and all he charges me $135.
  • Oh I forgot to mention that I waited too long to change mine and had to replace the rear shocks as they couldn't take the abuse of no rear suspension. But on the good note, I talked with KYB directly and they said I could upgrade to their Gas-Adjust Shocks with no problems. Hold the road better, but a little bumpy at times and feel I need to bite the bullet and replace the front struts.
  • Hey,

    My parents, getting older and dimensia disability of one of them, I took my car to my dealer for a scheduled repair. On my list was upgrade the onstar since our vehicle was listed as being upgradable. I just didn't get around to getting it done when I received the letter in the mail. Since my car had a more expensive repairs, when I picked it up I wasn't even thinking about the Onstar digital phone upgrade. About 6 to 8 months later I took the car back to the dealer and mentioned we had missed doing the upgrade when we had a high dollar bill the previous time. Service writter told me he would get back to me on it. While he was working on it I called back and asked about the upgraded digital phone for the Onstar and he came back to tell me that they were inclined to do the upgrade. Finally he told me that "If I was willing to pay for it they could do it."

    I contacted Onstar and was told to go to another dealer. Went to another dealer and after they pulled the Vin the Svc Mgr told me NO. I called GM this time and they told me that my car was definately upgradable and maybe I should check another dealer. I had an appointment with another dealer further away, but due to inclement weather I had to cancel. This dealer told me they knew for a fact my car was upgradable for digital phone module, that they just did another 2004. But I can't get them to call me back to make an appointment. I even called and was bumped to a voice mail box and asked if I could have an oil change while they pulled the code's from the existing system to tell the GM rep' so they could get the right upgrade parts in for the install.

    It bugs me that I quit getting phone calls from GM on this issue, and I was reminded of the phone calls after my father got a "Disabilities Catalogue" from GM, which I felt must have been sent due to my mentioning persons with disabilities to the GM rep.
  • Seriously I used to love my rainer,, not so much lately, I have a constant thumping sounds like im running over frost heaves steadly, used to be only when i stopped and the buick was still cold. my instrument cluster is wacked why hasent this been recalled ???? i went to a vehical boneyard and the guy said i could buy one of the 2 he had i had 250000 km the other had 195000km cant do that my vehical only has 93000 km's i would seriously be deprieciating my car, I also have the constant air filling in the back i just thought that was normal till I found this site, and have seen there is someone from buick on here steady why isnt she going to bat for the loyal customers. i'm now in the market for a new vehical and cant say that i would even look at the buick enclave, and not only that but in my search for a new vehical my son has asked if he could buy this buick off me, i not sure i can in good conscience do that, i feel at that piont i would be putting his life in danger (with the speedo the way it is) and giving him a lemon
  • worxriteworxrite Posts: 7

    I have a 2004 Buick Rainier CXL

    Sometimes when I turn my key to start my car it gives a little clicking noise and won't turn over. Sometimes it will start on the 2nd time I turn my key and then other times it may take 10 times before it will start. The battery is new; I'm not sure if there's a loose connection somewhere, if it's the ignition or what it is. Has anyone had this situation before, if so, please help me know what I should do?

    R. Corbett
  • doell1982doell1982 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 awd buick rainer that was jerking at 40 to 45 mph. The car is now jerking at 20 to 30. This leads me to beleave that it might not be the transmission. Could it be a sensor or actuator mortor? Has anyone had this problem? please help i dont have the money for a transmission.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252

    Have you had the chance to take your vehicle in to be diagnosed? Please keep us posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
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