Experienced "rear ended" slam symptom at stop light twice and even had a time where when I was accelerating at a green light the engine kicked into gear so fast that the tires spun. (rear wheel drive not 4x4)
The Transmission place I took it to found a Toyota "Advisory" of some type that the Transmission Mount for the 2007 Sequoia was redesigned for that year. I'm not sure if it "recommended" that it be replaced with the old mount style but that was the gist of it.
Remembered seeing a post here that there may be an issue with the connection between the drive shaft to the rear wheels and the transmission and this seemed to fall into that line.
Replaced the part months ago and haven't had any more problems. The part was listed as "Trans Mount " on the invoice and cost $107 for the part.
I don't know what database the transmission place searched or have any information where the Advisory came from.
While in 1st or 2nd gear, I hear a whining noise during acceleration only that is much more noticeable while driving uphill. It seems to be less prevalent when the engine is warmed up, but is nonetheless still present. My transmission fluid is clear and full with no leaks evident. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Hi I have 2004 seq I have notice in the last 2 years when outside temp get above 90F my seq tend to start off on ,ow gear with engine roaring when I let up on the gas and shift then it goes away. Trans show now signs of being hot. wondering if your loud humming type sound is the same
Hi, I have the same issue when the car go into overdrive, so did you get the issue diagnosed? If you deactivate the overdrive button off the noise goes away, so it is definitely something with overdrive.
@dxy said:
I have a brand new 2010 sequoia limited less than 200 miles, I noticed something weird though not sure if they are problems.
When I brake in low speed in parking lot, from time to time, I felt the car "jump" forward a little bit. It seems like I wrongfully step on the gas instead of the brake, of course, I am sure I stepped ed the brake. The problem, however, is not repeatable.
If I push down the gas pedal very gentle, the transmission gear shifts, the rpm stays around 2000 and the speed goes up. If I push down the gas pedal in medium hard steadily, the gear shifts to the second or third, and will not shift to upper gears. What I see are: the rpm goes up higher and higher to 3500-4000 and the speed goes up to 50+ miles/hour. (I didn't try longer and/or harder.)
However, if I release the gas pedal and push the gas pedal again, the gear shifts, and rpm goes down to 2000.
For those that are experiencing the 'clunk' at stopping and starting, I would have your drive shaft checked to see if it requires grease. On the 4Runner, the drive shaft is not a sealed unit and has six zerk fittings that need to be greased. I have to grease mine at about every oil change and it's fine. If I don't, it clunks when starting and stopping.
my transmission started dying at 198,683 on my toyota sequoia 2003 2wd 4.7L V8, 2 weeks ago.
symptoms: - probably 4-5 months ago: random jerks while shifting gears but occurred very rare and infrequent. Didn't think much of it because it would go away and the engine light never turned on.
3 wks ago: - engine started stalling, intermittently, when at a stop light or stop sign (idle low) however, engine was fine as long as i was moving (applying gas, meaning RPMs high) again, no indicators showed on the dash. - - mechanic couldn't figure out if it was the ecm/ecu (car's computer) or if it was the transmission because the car would somehow fix itself by the time i brought it in (see murphy's law) lol --- usually, turning the SUV off, put the car in park and waiting 30 sec before turning the car on would get the engine going again. - incidents became more frequent, i had to have the car in neutral, apply gas to keep the engine from dying and then shift to drive when the light turned green... right turns were always nerve racking because slowing down would can the engine to die but i also didn't want to endanger anyone so i was doing a lot of california rolls - finally, my car had it and completely died. it started with the car having issues switching gears from reverse to drive and it felt as if it was never fully in drive. It died at a light 2 miles from where i started the car and it wouldn't turn back on. mechanic verified it was the transmission.
was told i could get a used tranny for $1500 or rebuilt for $2500. joy.
I had a camry 98 (my dad bought it brand new and it was passed around in the family) that had 300K miles on it and only needed regular maintenance ... how is it that a 2003 can't handle 200k?!! toyota's aren't what they use to be
You might have a transmission shop check the torque converter clutch solenoid. It could be sticking and this would cause the car to stall when you come to a stop. This wouldn't require a transmission rebuild. The solenoid can be tested by measuring resistance in the solenoid and also by applying a voltage to it and listening for its operation.
This problem *should* throw a code but retrieving it depends on the type of scanner used and the skill of the technician.
2006 Sequoia with 160k miles. We bought it after researching its history: single owner, regularly serviced, only pending service was the drive belt. We even had a Toyota mechanic go thru it and they pronounced it in remarkable shape. Within first week, we hit brakes harder than normal to stop for a yellow light, and when we tried to accelerate when light turned green, RPMs went up but car did not move (can only describe it as a neutral feeling, like the car was looking for a gear to engage). We got to the side of the road, turned car off, waiting a minute, then turned car back on and all was fine again. We've only had that problem a few times, but have noticed the brake light randomly coming on, the brake pedal feeling squishing at a light, the car feeling like it is braking by itself when going downhill, and the feeling of the car trying to jump forward to accelerate if you slightly take your foot off the brake pedal (many of these single symptoms were described by others in this string). After multiple Dealer trips, they decided it was the brake booster. When we took it back for the brake booster to be replaced, they did further testing and talked to the corp techs who had them replace the battery with a bigger one and send them screen shots. They then informed me that the problem with definitely not the brakes, that after "checking for DTC, found P2714 pressure solenoid D performance/stuck off". Tech said this was also stored in history, but because no engine lights were on and everything was now current, they hadn't realized this could be the issue. Was told we needed a whole new transmission for before tax of $4551. After internet research, it appears many of us have this transmission issue - anyone know of a class action that might start to get us some help? I've owned a manual Toyota since 1989, but after being told by the customer service line that the power train is only warranted for 5 years/60k miles, we will not buy another.
That's too bad. I wonder how they came to the conclusion that the entire transmission needs to be rebuilt. I suspect that they didn't want to take apart and attempt to repair such an old unit.
Also, at 160,000 miles and 11 years, it would be difficult to convince Toyota to participate. These miles and numbers are getting close to the statistically predicted lifetime of most modern cars.
One also has to wonder, given how soon this occurred after you bought the truck, and how the problem comes and goes, if the previous owner wasn't aware of the issue.
Some possible solutions to the problem:
Changing the fluid and filter Replace faulty Pressure Control Solenoid Repair or replace a faulty transmission pump Repair or replace defective transmission valve body Transmission flush to clean passages Cleaning corrosion from connectors Repairing or replacing wiring
My 2007 Sequoia Limited has 200,000 miles. The jerking and slamming into gear transmission issues that I see being discussed here happened to me back at 100,000 miles when my mechanic "flushed" the transmission. It was terrible and felt like the transmission was going to drop out on the road. The problem was that he did not use Toyota transmission fluid. After I had him flush it again with the "right stuff" it went back to normal after a few miles. I had it done again with Toyota transmission fluid at 150,000 miles. I am just now starting to feel a little jump when slowing down and the transmission shifts from 2nd to 1st gear. I will try another flush first and see how that works before I do anything else.
I just had the transmission Oil drained (NOT FLUSHED AS I was told drained is better since the pressure PSI can pull a ring who knows) But it worked January 4th 2020 on a 2006 Sequoia, they added some transmission lubricant as well. but I recommend doing this before spending 4,000 or rebuilding the transmission and definitely going to two transmission places and reading more forums, etc. its easy for a mechanic to fool someone regarding transmissions, realistically how many people can really tell what damage is there? I was told particles of metal the altenoids, any way the car drove smooth as a new car after the transmission drained and filter cleaned with the additive.
I just had the transmission Oil drained (NOT FLUSHED AS I was told drained is better since the pressure PSI can pull a ring who knows)
The pressure that actually performs the flush is the fluid being pumped by the transmission that would flow through the cooler and then back tothe transmission so it is a myth that it would do any damage.
But it worked January 4th 2020 on a 2006 Sequoia, they added some transmission lubricant as well. but I recommend doing this before spending 4,000 or rebuilding the transmission and definitely going to two transmission places and reading more forums, etc. its easy for a mechanic to fool someone regarding transmissions, realistically how many people can really tell what damage is there?
How many? If they are professional technicians who specialize in repairing transmissions, just about all of them. Otherwise you will hear from a lot of opinons from people who think they know but in reality don't know much at all. Do you want to know what is easier than a mechanic fooling someone? Accusing them falsely.
I was told particles of metal the altenoids, any way the car drove smooth as a new car after the transmission drained and filter cleaned with the additive.
I absolutely believe in servicing the vehicle at least to the minimum manufacturers reccomendations if not more. I do not like misinformation from any source, that ultimately hurts many vehicle owners so no, I'm not a fan of your post.
The majority of shops and techs are honest, well trained, hard working and committed to doing their best for each vehicle owner they provide services for. When I see a post(s) that has to use phrases like " don't get jerked by scammers" and "its easy for a mechanic to fool someone regarding transmissions" it's not a big surprise if there is information in the post that cannot stand on its own.
it seems you like the post, let people spend 89 dollars vs $4,000.
As if $89 dollars is the right price for a transmission to be getting serviced correctly. You should read one post above yours where it talks about a service was done without using the correct fluid. You don't need to go to the dealer to get the right stuff, it is available through aftermarket sources but it will cost more than $89 just for the fluid.
every state is different =instead of trolling, you should know that. different state different prices, now you you are assuming pay more and better service.
I recently bought a used Sequoia 2002 4WD only 100,000K from an old man, he rarely used in the 4WD situation. I do have a transmission failure when putting in Drive position from parking.. engine starts well, no noise, no vibration, just dying when placing in Drive.. I changed the transmission oil but since I did not change the filter, It could only replace 1/2 the oil. The old one.was old, but did not seems burned, no smell, no debris. so I replaced some of the oil, The Sequoia worked well after that for one day, still no symptoms of a failing transmission. in the evening I went back to my driveway. I stopped the engine and restarted it but it happened again as soon I placed it in the drive. could it be because of the heat (Near Las Vegas)
I do not know much about automatic transmissions but it seems that some clutch is getting sticky or something and wondering if my oil filter could be dirty if oil was wat changed for a long time. (no way to know, but it was not recently) . I doubt the filter had ever been cleaned or replaced... could it cause this problem? If I get some positive results changing the filter and the oil again, could it be safe to drive at least to a repair shop that is 15 miles away? Any comment appreciated, thank you.
I changed my oil twice and replace the filter. the problem remains however the car is jumping few inches when placing it on the drive from idle (park or neutral). it seems the clutch is stuck closed.
I read that it could be the torque converter clutch solenoid... I thought of replacing it although costly but cheaper than a mechanic. any idea?
Comments
i will post result later
The Transmission place I took it to found a Toyota "Advisory" of some type that the Transmission Mount for the 2007 Sequoia was redesigned for that year. I'm not sure if it "recommended" that it be replaced with the old mount style but that was the gist of it.
Remembered seeing a post here that there may be an issue with the connection between the drive shaft to the rear wheels and the transmission and this seemed to fall into that line.
Replaced the part months ago and haven't had any more problems. The part was listed as "Trans Mount " on the invoice and cost $107 for the part.
I don't know what database the transmission place searched or have any information where the Advisory came from.
I have notice in the last 2 years when outside temp get above 90F my seq tend to start off on ,ow gear with engine roaring when I let up on the gas and shift then it goes away. Trans show now signs of being hot. wondering if your loud humming type sound is the same
would it have to have a new ECU?
I have the same issue when the car go into overdrive, so did you get the issue diagnosed? If you deactivate the overdrive button off the noise goes away, so it is definitely something with overdrive.
For those that are experiencing the 'clunk' at stopping and starting, I would have your drive shaft checked to see if it requires grease. On the 4Runner, the drive shaft is not a sealed unit and has six zerk fittings that need to be greased. I have to grease mine at about every oil change and it's fine. If I don't, it clunks when starting and stopping.
symptoms:
- probably 4-5 months ago: random jerks while shifting gears but occurred very rare and infrequent. Didn't think much of it because it would go away and the engine light never turned on.
3 wks ago:
- engine started stalling, intermittently, when at a stop light or stop sign (idle low) however, engine was fine as long as i was moving (applying gas, meaning RPMs high) again, no indicators showed on the dash.
- - mechanic couldn't figure out if it was the ecm/ecu (car's computer) or if it was the transmission because the car would somehow fix itself by the time i brought it in (see murphy's law) lol
--- usually, turning the SUV off, put the car in park and waiting 30 sec before turning the car on would get the engine going again.
- incidents became more frequent, i had to have the car in neutral, apply gas to keep the engine from dying and then shift to drive when the light turned green... right turns were always nerve racking because slowing down would can the engine to die but i also didn't want to endanger anyone so i was doing a lot of california rolls
- finally, my car had it and completely died. it started with the car having issues switching gears from reverse to drive and it felt as if it was never fully in drive. It died at a light 2 miles from where i started the car and it wouldn't turn back on. mechanic verified it was the transmission.
was told i could get a used tranny for $1500 or rebuilt for $2500. joy.
I had a camry 98 (my dad bought it brand new and it was passed around in the family) that had 300K miles on it and only needed regular maintenance ... how is it that a 2003 can't handle 200k?!! toyota's aren't what they use to be
This problem *should* throw a code but retrieving it depends on the type of scanner used and the skill of the technician.
Also, at 160,000 miles and 11 years, it would be difficult to convince Toyota to participate. These miles and numbers are getting close to the statistically predicted lifetime of most modern cars.
One also has to wonder, given how soon this occurred after you bought the truck, and how the problem comes and goes, if the previous owner wasn't aware of the issue.
Some possible solutions to the problem:
Changing the fluid and filter Replace faulty Pressure Control Solenoid
Repair or replace a faulty transmission pump
Repair or replace defective transmission valve body
Transmission flush to clean passages
Cleaning corrosion from connectors Repairing or replacing wiring
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2714
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
The majority of shops and techs are honest, well trained, hard working and committed to doing their best for each vehicle owner they provide services for. When I see a post(s) that has to use phrases like " don't get jerked by scammers" and "its easy for a mechanic to fool someone regarding transmissions" it's not a big surprise if there is information in the post that cannot stand on its own. As if $89 dollars is the right price for a transmission to be getting serviced correctly. You should read one post above yours where it talks about a service was done without using the correct fluid. You don't need to go to the dealer to get the right stuff, it is available through aftermarket sources but it will cost more than $89 just for the fluid.
If you don’t want responses to your posts, then don’t post.
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so I replaced some of the oil, The Sequoia worked well after that for one day, still no symptoms of a failing transmission. in the evening I went back to my driveway. I stopped the engine and restarted it but it happened again as soon I placed it in the drive. could it be because of the heat (Near Las Vegas)
I do not know much about automatic transmissions but it seems that some clutch is getting sticky or something and wondering if my oil filter could be dirty if oil was wat changed for a long time. (no way to know, but it was not recently) . I doubt the filter had ever been cleaned or replaced... could it cause this problem?
If I get some positive results changing the filter and the oil again, could it be safe to drive at least to a repair shop that is 15 miles away?
Any comment appreciated, thank you.
I read that it could be the torque converter clutch solenoid...
I thought of replacing it although costly but cheaper than a mechanic. any idea?