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After the warranty ran out I fixed the brakes myself. Cost me less than $200.00. It seems the calipers were on the wrong side, I don't know how they did it, but once I swapped them and put new rotors and pads on it hasn't been a problem since. That was in Jan '07. Plus, my tranny has been shifting hard. Does anybody know what might be causing this. Doesn't always happen but often.
Oh!! My car is a lemon too!!!!! :lemon:
I have only one problem since I put the used BCM in my radio is locked, no alarm, and now the airbag light is on, besides that everything is fully functional. How do I unlock this radio. The typicall hold 4 and 6, 2 and 3, or hold am/pm down will not work. Is there any way of unlocking the radio besides using a scan tool? Likearainbow what does it say in the service manul? I am thinking taking it to the dealer to reprogram the bcm will work but am not sure.
Is anybody having trouble with their transmission shifting hard? I have had this problem a little over a year now and the dealer could not find anything wrong. They did however replace the tranny wiring harness. If anybody hasn't had theirs replaced, they should (03-05). They know it is an issue. If anybody has anything else to add, that would be great. Also, if you need help changing a thermostat, you can look me up.
Thanks,
Brian
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'm having the EXACT same problem with my Aztek, I'm getting the disco Aztek and lose the AC when it happens. (I also had the whole Motor Blower Resistor thing going on but I managed to fixed that.)
You said "check the AC resistors before replacing the BCM". Can you be more specific as to which resistor(s) you're talking about. Which one you had replaced and maybe a location.
THANKS in advance.
Good luck
Bill Kitt
GM Service Training :shades:
After what I am reading about Azteks, I am scared all these things are going to happen to me--some of them already are.
Mine's a 2001, with no previous problems of any kind (great utilitarian car!):
Won't start or come out of park (without using the manual override button).
All wires, fuses and relays seem to check okay (both boxes), but when I went to Reverse (car not started), the reverse lights didn't illuminate... when I searched for that fuse... I discovered it's not listed in the manual or on either cover-plate legend. That one must piggy-back on another fuse, but which one?
The other symptom is a traction problem warning.
So, in short... won't start (battery fully charged)... clicking by the passenger-side fuse box, but none blown (switched relays around... all work). Won't move out of park (unless cup-holder over-ride button used)... no reverse lights... won't start in neutral.
Couldn't test the multi-plug relay... number 10 on the passenger-side fuse-box,
and the stores here are out of them.
All wires inside the shifter, under the floor, and in the engine compartment look in tact.
Any ideas, or similar travails? Please identify the back-up (reverse) light fuse, if you can.
miwright
When I say "clicking", I mean the noise of the solonoids actuating.
It seems temprature related.
When I start the car from cold, the solonoids will not click.
After a half hour or so they will begin to click every 90 seconds or so.
As time goes on, eventually, after an hour, they click every few seconds.
I pulled the fuse in the passenger side fuse box and that stops the clicking, but of course the gate won't open.
But at least that is proof of what is making the clicking noise.
What's happening here?
I can't remember the number but it was the one that is labled as being for the lift gate.
I only pulled it to verify that it would cause it to stop making the noise.
Today is my first day on this site and so today was the first I've heard about the magical properties of #28 in the fuse box under the hood.
I did pull that fuse and waited 60sec before replacing it.
I will be using the car this evening and we will see if the reset fixed it.
The fuse #28 reset did not fix the problem.
By the way,
The clicking will occur when the car is moving or stopped.
But if you put it in neutral it stops.
If the #28 fuse thing had worked it may have proved issue was BCM related, because it is still happening, it may or may not be..
Other things I can think of (in no particualr order):
Key fob issue, electrical bad battery causing issues/ short/ stuck button
If it happens all the time with one fob, try using the other (keeping original at home, and assumeing you have 2)
switch in cabin having issue.
There is wiring that exits to the outside of vehicle just behind drivers seat. The connector there (with a zillion wires) has been known to have water intrusion/corrosion troubles that can create things with any electircal stuff in rear of vehicle.
If the vehicle battery has a lot of age on it, it potentialy can cause strange things to happen.
The being in neutral thing could be interesting perhaps as the BCM resides close to that and there has been some issues with wiring be chaffed/shorted. in that area.
I'll see if I can think of anything else.
I was able to get an extended pay plan when I bought my 03 AWD Aztek in 2003. BAD IDEA. It now has 132,000 miles on it and the dealer is telling me that I need to replace my rear differential (roaring noise in the back), my thermostat is sticking (causes the engine light to come on), I need to replace my lower intake gaskets, and several other more minor probs.
The best part is that my speedometer is sticking, so when I slow down, the needle won't drop, but it will continue to climb when I speed back up. So when I'm going 45 mph or so, the speedometer says I'm doing 120+ mph. Simply turning off the car and restarting wont reset the speedometer, so I have to switch the ignition on and off (w/out cranking) about 10-15 times to make it zero back out. But when I do that, it causes the fuel need to flop over onto the temp gauge like a dead fish and it stays that way for days. Oddly enough, though it's been doing this for 2 weeks, the dealership cant get it to do that on their test drives, so they can't fix it. They suspect I need a new instrument cluster, but they're not sure.
Long story short, the dealer is telling me I'm looking at repairs of $2,300+, and that doesn't include a new rear differential. And I still have another year of payments!!!
Has anyone ever had these problems with their aztek? Any ideas on what's wrong and an affordable fix for it?
Thanks
Like the solonoid noise, this clicking goes away when in N or P.
Our car doesn't have a key fob.
The lift gate switch works fine when the car is stopped and it will not cause the gate to pop open when it is pressed when the car is in gear.
I just thought of something......
When the car is stopped and I push the button to open the rear window, I hear the solonoids working and the window pops open a little. That's how it's supposed to work.
But when the solonoids are doing their clicking as I drive along... The window never pops open.
In other words, the solonoids are cycling but they don't actually open the window.
Does that give a clue?
Now I have 2, and the repair shop can't seem to figure either one out.
First, between 35-45 mph, usually but not always on an incline, the engine starts to surge. It feels very strange, like its bucking. Continues for no more than a minute and then quits. The shop puts the computer on it, but it doesn't last long enough for him to get a reading on, plus (of course) it rarely does it when he's in the car.
Second and much worse, is related to the air conditioner. The car groans like a banshee! It starts suddenly, and lasts perhaps 15-20 seconds. The sounds are all different (from groans to grinds to shakes), and they sure are loud! I can tell it effects the engine, which gets sluggish, and when it stops, you can feel the engine "release". In addition, the lights dim. It started when the A/C stopped working, immediately after shop put in some freon, and dye to check the condenser, which turned out to have a hole and was replaced a few weeks later. Now the A/C works fine, but the noise and "binding" are getting worse all the time. I'm afraid it will end up ruining my engine. I know its related to A/C somehow because if I turn A/C off, it stops immediately. It scare people riding with me (and me) to death, but once again, it doesn't do it when the shop guy is driving. Any ideas? :sick: Since I live in Florida, I have to run the A/C most of the time, so just turning it off isn't a viable option!! I don't want this issue to come between me and my sweet car!
I do have the AWD.
I believe there is a compressor. There is a schrader valve in one of those compartments in the back.
I'm not sure how that could make the noise. I do know that the noise is coming from inside the tailgate.
I had the wife sit in the car and start it with the gate down.
With the car in drive and the gate down, I get the solonoid sound at random intervals.
But like I said. with the gate closed and the window closed and the solonoid sound going..... The window still remains closed and can't be pulled open.
So whatever the solonoid is doing, it isn't opening the window like it does when the hatch button is pushed by the driver.