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The mechanic hasn't thrown in the towel yet and replaced the BCM. Primarily because he doesn't think that this is the issue with my car.
We'll see.
About a year ago - you name it - and it went wrong with the electrical system. At first the blower on my heating system went out ... so I took it in to the dealer and had it replaced. It worked again - for the short term.
Then my fuel gauge stopped registering. Again - took it in to the dealer and had it replaced. It worked again - for the short term.
Then the car just went NUTS (I think some have described it as the Disco Effect). If you popped the hatch ... nothing else electrical would work until you unattached the battery and then reattached (and it was only a 50/50 chance that resetting the battery would fix the issue).
After awhile you did not have to pop the hatch anymore to trigger the electrical issues ... they just started going crazy on their own. I would constantly have a little wrench with me everywhere I went to unattach the battery and reattach after each and every drive.
I could NEVER get the windows open, NEVER use the AC (and I live LA - yuck) ... never use the radio, I could not even move my seats as they were power seats. It was like the car's electrical supply was being plugged in, unplugged, plugged in, unplugged (the radio, dash lights and even front lights would flash on and off, on and off, on and off).
The day we stopped driving it was the day that we were stuck in traffic on the 405 ... blistering hot (could not open the windows or have any type of blowing air in the car) ... and the alarm system started going off - on its own - with us still stuck in the car. We had to pull over (took 25 minutes in 3 lanes of traffic) ... turn off the car and get our trusty wrench out to unattach the battery (all with the horn blasting away) to make everything stop screaming at us.
After that day - I put the car in storage until my Dad could come down and take a look (he worked for GM for 30-some years). After replacing the battery (we let the car sit for about 6 months after the "405 Incident") we decided to take it into a TRUSTWORTHY mechanic (no more dealerships for this gal). My Dad was of the opinion that it was the BCM (as was I after reading this forum) ... but wanted a 2nd opinion (oh - and we did look at the electrical wires behind the driver's seat ... they were in pristine condition). After trying to run a diagnostic - they agreed (they could not even run the diagnostic due to the condition of the electrical system) - and in 24 hours had replaced the BCM and she is running PERFECTLY now (for about 10 days straight)!
Just wanted to share this as I know a number of you are suffering with similar issues ... DEFINITELY get the BCM checked / replaced - I am assuming there is some type of 'issue' with the original ones that were installed (it sounds like each car may have different 'symptoms' - but I think the illness [BCM] could be the same!).
I love my Aztek and am THRILLED to have her running again (as all the other systems - such as engine, etc - continued to run so well through the electrical issues). Best of luck everyone ...
EDIT: Oh yes - I forgot to mention, when it was acting up - I could never use the FOB and that the Security light was always on on the dash (all the lights would go on and off on the dash - sometimes things would register - like our speed - most of the time - they would not) ... I am sure there are other issues that I am forgetting to mention that we experienced (the list was never ending) ... but I think I have suppressed them ... for the most part.
I think I also had some overheating issues - but that was sorted out on one of the first trips to the dealership a year and a half back when the problems were just rearing their ugly heads (had a head gasket changed - I remember that). I have put about $3000.00 in repairs into the car ... but had I simply replaced the BCM first ... I probably would have saved $2300 of that (The dealership really soaked me at the beginning). It is important to have someone you trust work on your car (and even better if you can have someone familiar with cars there to verify their evaluations and work).
Good for you LMA...let me know how it's and you are doing.
See ya
Bill
Thanks,
Lew
So sorry - can't help you out there. However - I have noticed that Bill (participant in this thread) seems to know A LOT about vehicles. I am sure he can point you in the right direction ... Best of luck!!!
:shades:
Thanks,
Mike
If anybody wants any print info on anything let me know through my other email:
billkitt@bellsouth.net. I can attach what you need. The BCM is actually located in the center console toward the front under dash area. Some vary but in the '02 it's righrt at the end of a big harness in the center console around the Body Control fuse box. I can be more exact when I get to work tomorrow and pull it up on my computer there.
Good Luck
Bill
The programming part is due to parts consolidation. The ‘One BCM fits all’ concept. It's just a blank box and it is later programmed to all of the options on a particular make model etc. (ie your Aztek). We used to just pop a PROM chip in the box which you could get out of the old one. Now the electronics are so complicated that they must be electronically programmed.
Unfortunately, you must have a ‘Tech 2’ scan tool to do this procedure. The vehicle will not start or run without programming it. It’s like buying a brand new PC and not loading any operating system. You will probably have to go to your local GM dealer to do this. Some good independent shops (ACDelco Service Shops) www.acdelco.com that have a Tech 2 can do it as well. I believe it pays about .5 (half) hour labor. I’ll have to check and see if you can get this programmed off car. I don’t think so though.
Good Luck and keep me posted.
Bill">
Unfortunately that is the case. The theft system will not recognize it and will not allow you to start the car. You could try it...who knows, as weird as these Azteks get sometimes you never know. You could also leave everything apart and tell the dealer to just program it and you'll do the rest? Is it drivable w/the old BCM?
Let me know what you do next.
Bill
What is this ground kit you are talking about? Sound interesting.
Bill
Other people with actual experience have reported that a grounding kit helps some cars but has no effect on others.
I think I'll ask about them over on Edmunds Answers and try to flush out more details from a wider audience.
My biggest problem now is that the rear hatch keeps opening
unexpectantly and then the interior lights come on and on....
then the battery wears down and I have to get a charge.
If I could figure out where the wire was for the hatch I would
put a toggle on it and only turn it on when I needed to release the hatch.
If anyone has any info to share, I would really appreciate it.
I am now keeping the rear hatch fuse out (#13) but this also disables
the power windows and the weather is heating up around here(No AC, don't ask)
The airbag light does not seem to be a BCM reprogram issue, mine is on all the time now after disconnecting-reconnecting the 3 connections on the drivers side.
(I had a service engine light on, but it went away after disconnecting reconnecting the battery)
thanks
Lew
Email ASAP because I have a busy day tomorrow and I'll be away from my computer until the evening.
Take care Lew
Bill
Bill :confuse:
I sent you an email...reply anytime in the next couple days, I won't get around to it until the weekend anyway. Thank you so much for the info. I'll post results and all my aztec lessons learned after the module is installed and programmed.
Thanks,
Lew
Did you get the problem figured out, cause I have got the same one. Did you find the resistor or did you replace the BCM. Any info would be helpful. Thanks!!! If someone else reads this, do you know the location of the AC resistor that was spoken about in thread #89. Thanks Again!!!
I'm supposed to take my car in TOMORROW to get the gasket replaced. My understanding is that I have to pay for it myself... not cheap! Please tell me more!
http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com
It looks as if being unable to afford fixing the cracking gasket means that they will only reimburse me $100 (maybe) to my $750-1000 repair bill!
Does anyone know any other options for getting this fixed inexpensively or getting reimbursed more? Repairs need to be done prior to May 30, 2008 to be a part of this class action. I'd like to opt out if there's a better option. (White Pontiac Aztek 2002 FWD)
that was purchsed with your aztec in New york? What are you dealers doing for you.
I had to call GM laster year about my ABS car was in the shop fro 1month"
Fer
Did you say that, specifically, "Pontiac" could assist? I'm confused about the different arms of GM, who makes decisions about what, and who is in the best position to move on this quickly.
Hopefully I'll get some good news and they will back up their product and their work!
Thank you.
Send me an email at billkitt@bellsouth.net and I'll attach the BCM replacement instructions to my reply. Once you get the BCM in you will have to get it programmed to your particular vehicle so the modules can talk and listen to each other. They have to be 'introduced' to each other. GM Dealer can do the programming or (recommended ACDelco shop at acdelco.com)
Bill
Thanks
johnrd@ameritech.net
Unfortunately the gauge cluster has to be removed and sent to an authorized electronics dealer. They will swap it out. Email me at billkitt@bellsouth.net and I can give you more info as far as where an authorized service center is and removal instructions. Give me you zip code as well.
Bill
If it is inside the car under the seat, it is the 'mirror - seat motor mod' but if it's under the vehicle it is the Auto -level control module (most likely) Either way, Unplug it. Otherwise it will run your battery down (if it already hasn't). There is probably a leak in the air ride system which is causing the pump to keep pumping.
Let me know if I can help you out with the repair.
Take care
Bill
Help
Thanks to all who add to these forums, without which I would have never attempted this.
My one last test will be when I put the new one in. There seems to be some debate on whether this should be done at the dealers or whether you are able to drive the vehicle without some features. I've gotten the feeling that it is the later, although I do understand that it should be programmed at the dealer.
Thanks to all.
Thanks,
Nikki
I have written up instructions with pictures, email me and I will send them to you.
I just finished them so I'll probably go back over them tomorrow and see if I've made any mistakes
or have anything else to add.