Has anyone changed their plugs and wires themselves, and if you have, how did you do it? How long did it take? Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks, Brian
If you haven't started on this project you need to know that there are two (2) screws that hold the bezel on at the bottom. They are torx head screws I believe a T-15 (not sure. Before that you need to take the cover off around the shift lever. One (1) screw in the cup holder, put shifter in low and remove the cover with a twist over the lever, then the two torx screws are easy to get to.
In 2006 just before I was to take a trip to Texas my air conditioner went totally out. It cost me a whopping $2,000.00 (actually over) to repair. Now in 2008 I have NOTHING! No air, no heat - AND I LIVE IN CHICAGO! Can anyone help! My brother-in-law is a good mechanic and he needs a repair manual to fix this thing!.
Did anyone get the recall on the gas leak thing? My car will not pass inspection because the check engine light is on. :mad:
I have a 2003 pontiac aztek electrical problems, Driven just fine one day I was running errands put in park turn it off, and it hasn't started back since. It was dead and locked in park. A backyard mech was able to by-pass something to get it to start, So we know it runs We just have to figure out what is keeping from starting. He replace the whole shifter thinking that was it and still want start, Does anybody know or have the same problem with their tek . It has plenty of power going to it, It has to be some switch I would think, Also do you have to reset the computer everytime you replace a electrical part ? Please help
What exactly happens when you try to start it, turns over but doesn't fire, or doesn't turn over at all? Does it click and lock the key or anything like that, other electric stuff work after trying to start it?
Seems like I might be having a similar problem, my newly purchased 2005 pontiac aztek Fuel Gauge isn't responding or is eratic if it does start to work. Though it seems this is a repeat issue people are having.
Aztek Traction Control & Antilock Brakes lights come on now which means i have no traction control or abs. I have heard horror stories of this problem from hub sensors, EBCM to ABS computer and they end up with a large price tag and the problem still exists. Before I go to my mechanic any suggestions or a list things that might be the problem
This just started yesterday. When I turn my steering wheel (both ways) it squeals. Its not coming from under the hood, or so it appears. Does anyone have any possible idea as t what this could be? HELP!
It could be a couple of things. First check to make sure your power steering fluid is at the proper level. If that's OK, your brakes could be too tight - did you have them done recently? Last thing is your power steering pump could be going bad. Good luck.
1. Go to the library and check out GM repair manual for this vehicle 2. Stop by the Pontiac dealer and talk with the Service Dept. The technician may even show you the Service Manual and/or give you some pointer
If I remember correctly, the trim around the HVAC and radio has to be taken out. You will probably need 7mm socket driver and Philips screwdriver for most GM vehicles
I am replacing a the custom vertical door hinges on the front with standard door hinges. I have received the standard hinges, and they look indentical to the rear door hinges. Simple question for any Owner - are the front hinges identical to the rear hinges, or have I received the rear door hinges in error.
Nothing happens, It does not turn over at all, but the electrical stuff comes on ,but the engine will not turn over. Somebody said the keyless remote entry with the anti-theft might had gone out , if that makes any since.
I'm also having problems with the seat warmers and the heater not working, I'm taking mine to the dealership tomorrow and see what they have to say about it.
So, for good measure out there, can anyone tell me if replacing their Body Control Module has resolved their electrical problems with their Azteks? I'd like to hear the feedback on this front before I spend another couple of hundred dollars chasing this.
I had the BCM replaced on mine last week, and it has been working fine since then. Before being replaced, I was having all kinds of problems with my 01' Tek. Had gotten to the point that even when parked and engine shut off, there were still clicking noises going on (door locks, lift gate, lights not going off). The horn even started going off one evening. I hope the BCM doesn't go out again anytime soon. Good Luck!
I've spent about $260 to a mechanic who discovered some bare wires to the BCM and re-insulated them in the belief that this would fix my problems. (I too have the "disco effect" and the door locks cycle and the hatch opened without warning a few weeks ago.)
Still having similar problems, I suspect that the BCM is the next thing to replace. Anyone have suggestions for a source for a new, inexpensive BCM?
Best thing I found is the "tire shine care" items. Spray on the black and it shines up nice and for quite awhile. And the cheaper brand works better. SOme of the more expensive state do not use but I had no problem. Yes it turns a touch white after a week or two But nothing like wax and it's easy. Just remember to do windows after..
I've been reading on this forum about problems with the BCM, and I suspect that my 2001 Aztek has a similar problem, but with perhaps a slight difference: My problem happens ONLY when the car is warm--like after it's been running for a while (more than 10 or 20 minutes) or if it has been parked in the sun. Also, nothing ever seems to go wrong WHILE driving, even for extended times. The problem only occurs when I shut it off and then RE-crank it. Occasionally, on these occasions, the problems go for a while, and then the car settles into stasis and everything works as it should, while at other times, I get the "Service Vehicle Soon / Security" light, and sometimes even get systems to lock (like the radio and window controls).
Has anyone else noticed this particular sequence of events? That is, nothing goes wrong except when the car is cranked when warm?
I'm thinking about ordering a BCM online, since my local Autozone couldn't locate it in their catalog. Any advice? Thanks for any help.
i am having same problem now cheapest way to fix call lock smith who deals w/ auto they can replace without whole col u will have to buy ignition cylinder about 80-90 $ and pay locksmith but will save u alot
I had a starting problem with my 01. I found that on the negative battery terminal there is a wire that goes to the body of the car. I took this wire off and ran a jumper from the negative battery terminal to the car body, and haven't had a problem since.
Ever since we bought the Aztek 2 years ago now I've suspected it of having some electrical problems. At first it was just the radio switching sources (say going from FM to CD player, or changing stations) from the time we turned it off to the next time we started it up. The radio would also be up ALL the way after starting it up sometimes.
Then we had our first oil change and the people could not figure out how to turn off the "change engine oil" indicator. It still goes away off and on to this day.
Next the rear hatch would not open completely with one press of the button (mostly when it is colder out) and one of us would have to be pulling up on it when we pressed the button again for it to open.
Now, oh boy, now we have all sorts of problems. The AC is currently out. We're having a local mechanic look at it and they think that is just due in part to a leak in one of the hoses. They put some free-on in and it worked great again for a day, but now it's back to just blowing air. They put a dye into the system so hopefully they will be able to find a leak for that.
Aside from that, the check engine light will randomly come on every once in a while for no reason. Recently my fiancee had told me that the temperature gauge had been spiking up and getting the warning on the display. After turning the car off and coming back, it's back to normal.
I've read a few things to try, like the method to turn off the oil light and a round about way to get rid of the strange happenings by detaching the battery for a while. I keep seeing BCM though. I'm not familiar with what this is so if anyone could give me any additional advice as to what to do for my issues, and/or explain to me what the BCM is and what it does, I would be greatful. Thanks in advance.
For the AC, if the condensor has never been changed to updated part, it is likely that may be the culprit (cracked). For the temp gauge, if the collant level is proper (both overflow tank and radiater) it may be problem with sticky thermostat and could also cause SES light (and may cause more serious problems if it really overheats). The Body Control Module has its hands in many electrical functions (not engine related), things like instrument panel radio lights and others.
My 01 tek has had similar problems to what I have been reading. It was like it was haunted. Lights came on after turning off ignition key. Horn sounding with no one in the car. Doors unlocking by themselves, especially the driver side. The latest was a starting problem. It would start sometimes, and sometimes not. I would get out, open the hood, giggle some wires like the ones going to the starter. Maybe it would start, maybe not. I got another car and jumped the battery. Sometimes it would start, sometimes not. It wasn't until I moved the negative battery cable that it would start more consistantly. I narrowed it down to the ground wire going from the negative battery terminal to the car body. I jumpered it with a wire and it started. What I ended up doing was taking the wire loose and running a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the car body. It works fine now for the starting problem. thinking my problems with the bcm were over, I tried using the keyless entry fob. Mistake. Back to the haunted effect. I reprogrammed the bcm to use only the key to open the doors and everything works the way it should.
HEy all I need help we had to replace out battery and now nothing on the instrument panel will work and the doors wont lock either any ideas what may be wrong and the remote key thing wont work either
Hello All, I am a Master Certified Technician and a service instructor for GM. I own a 2001 Aztek. I love the vehicle and obviously don't stress over repairs because I can fix everything on a car. I have however been stumped by this Mystery Parasitic Draw issue. My students and I have run tests on it over and over again and we can't pinpoint it. I'm on third battery in 2 years. Top of the line Batteries, if I weren't who I am, the parts store wouldn't keep replacing them for free. The BCM is my best guess but that's all it is...an educated guess. I've pulled up the carpet and checked the electrical connectors under the drivers seat (I also have a fuel gauge intermittent, and AWD light on also inter.) This Aztec has been a great vehicle but it has a lot of little 'electrical Gremlins' in it. I will post again after BCM replacement. Keep me up to date as well.
With everyone stating how hard this was going to be I liked what you wrote and with that I was thinking of saving some $ and doing it myself. Did you remove the air cleaner? What else can you tell me to help me out?
I did remove the air cleaner and the throttle body. It is simple to remove. I don't remember all of the steps but it was extremely easy to do. The hardest part of the job was removing the screws from the heat shield on the exhaust. I believe they are 10 mm. I used a socket wrench. Of course the screws nearest the front of the car are easy to get to. Just take your time and think about what you are doing, all will be fine. Brian
I believe you are correct about the BCM. My problem began the same way, found out that after the ignition was turned off the radio stayed on as designed but after exiting, the BCM disabled the display but kept the amplifier active. I found the problem quite by accident after parking, turning the vehicle off and opening then closing the door while in the garage. I noticed a very faint hissing sound (amp white noise) in the vehicle which did not reset after 20 minutes.
After the second battery the disco deal started with the lights/gauges so I replaced the BCM and that corrected all the electrical problems.
Had the same problem in my 2003 Aztec. Turned out there was an issue with a cable in the dash--subject of a GM maintenance bulletin. The cable had to be replaced -- very expensive given the shop had to open up the dash board to access it. The ticket says replace TP Sensor and Wiring Harness. Perhaps you can use that when you speak to a dealer or shop.
Hello Everyone, I just purchased a 2001 Aztek AWD last week. It drives smooth and quiet. But after after a hour or so of driving or when I come from riding the turnpike at 70mph and stop at the toll booth and then accelrate it shifts HARD like a bump or light thud from gear to gear very sparatic. If I turn it off and let it sit and ride it no problems. It seems like every other start or after a hour of riding it brings on the hard/noticable shifting. Can anyone tell me if this is a tranny problem or just a quirk with this vehicle? Also what the average temp. while running/driving? Mine stays at half and goes to 3/4 while sitting at a light and then cools down again to a bit above the half? Normal or not? Any help or info would be appreciated! Thanks!
As an Aztek owner the car starts to deteriorate badly after five years. I really hope you got this from a dealer and can bring it back for something else - or at least bought warranty coverage. Believe me it will be worth it.
Good luck and try not to by GM products any more. My Aztek taught me my lesson.
My 2001 starting acting funny about 6 months ago. I would exit the car and then 1-20 minutes later when passing the car, would notice that the radio was running. I finally removed the fuse for the radio and all was well. Last week, I was traveling and on the way home I started hearing a noise like when the doors are locked or unlocked. Soon after the Check Engine Soon light appeared and then the Security warning. I drove it home and parked it. The next morning the battery was dead. I purchased a new battery and the car started but new gremlins started. The interior lights started turning on and off every 5-10 minutes, luckily, I noticed this right after dark and removed the fuse for the interior lights. Then in the morning I noticed that the rear hatch was open. This continued for a few days and I then removed the rear hatch lock fuse. Yesterday I decided to clean as many grounds as I could find. After reading posts in this forum, I removed the BCM fuse(interior) for 20 seconds and then returned it. I then noticed that a clicking sound was coming from the under-hood fuse box. It happened about every 30 seconds and after observing for a while, I could put my finger on the BCM fuse and feel that that was where the clicking was coming from. This morning the car started, but soon the Check Engine Light/Security was flashing again. I don't know if something in removing the rear hatch fuse caused this or the battery is getting low again. I guess I'll find out when I try to start it at lunch time. I'm going to try to make an appointment at a shop that specializes in auto electric but thought I would throw this out here and see if anyone had any more suggestions.
The temperature thing sounds about right. I know there was a TSB for hard shifting for the 2001's , don't know if thats exactly what your experiancing or the TSB number though.
Kinda of sounds like a BCM related issue, but the clicking (relay noise) would make me think cable connection (both on battery and underhood fuse box). Oh, and assuming you had to most likely mess a little with the fuse box when changing battery, I would check ALL the fuses there to make sure they are properly seated.
Ok, so I go home today and put the fuses back in that I had taken out: door locks interior lights rear hatch radio I start up the car and nothing changes, the door locks don't work, the interior lights do not come on and the rear hatch will not open. They don't work with either the FOB or the in car switches. I tried taking out fuse #28 which I had seen mentioned in the forum, for 20-30 seconds, and then returning. No change. Is the car supposed to be running when you do this? Is was not when I did it. So I don't have anymore clicking noises, but the Security warning is on and the radio is locked. I could live with most off, except the rear hatch not opening. Any suggestions? Edit....I pulled the wrong #28 fuse. I was pulling the one inside the car not the one under the hood. Everything is working again, but I won't know for a while wether it is acting up or not. If it is I guess I'll get a new BCM and see what happens.
I have seen a few messages relating to how noisy our Azteks are. Well you might want to get your rear hub bearings checked out. I had mine replaces when I got the car in 2005, and then we had them replaces last April and they started up again at they end of the year and need to be replaced again. Can anyone say Lemon!!! :lemon:
There is a part under the drivers door that has to do with the gas. My Aztek failed to start but luckily we were at the shop. My mechanic pushed on something like I mentioned under the drivers door area and it started right up. Check it out. Good luck
I recived my aztec as a graduation gift last april and recently started having problems with it. The antifreeze is leaking and there is water in my oil. My dad told me that i may have blown my head gasket and my friends say it would be less trouble and less money to just sell it rather than keep it and fix it, this is the last thig i would want to do. It was a good car when i first got it and it made it home and to school repeatedly. So i was wondering would it be in my best interest to sell it or keep it?
The most common problem with the anti-freeze leak is the intake gaskets. If left un-corrected for a long time it can leak into oil and possibly create real big problem with engine. Also if the coolant gets low enough (due to leak) engine can overheat and cause head gasket failure.
My daughters 2001 Aztek is at the dealrship right now. She was experiencing the electrical demons as well as many other gremlins. With her electrical she had lights going on and off sporatically, horn on and off, door locks locking and unlocking, back door hatch won't work, radio won't work and says locked and dash lights don't work. She would have to disconnect her battery everytime she got out of her car. They fixed it by putting in a new Mudule which cost me close to $700. As well her car would periodically overheat, yet there would be cold hair coming out of her vents so they said it was a leaky manifold gasket and that was another $700. They said all was fixed so we went to pick up car and didn't even get 2 miles and the car was overheating. So they called and said that it appears it is the head gaskets and hopefully no damage has been done to motor but they won't know till they get the heads out etc. The cost for this fix is $1800 and it could go up. This is quite insane and had I known it was gonna turn into a money pit I would have said forget it and buy another car.
Comments
Chere, Crystal, Bear, Heshe & Purplepuppy (The Royal Aztek
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks,
Brian
Did anyone get the recall on the gas leak thing? My car will not pass inspection because the check engine light is on.
When I turn my steering wheel (both ways) it squeals. Its not coming from under the hood, or so it appears.
Does anyone have any possible idea as t what this could be?
HELP!
1. Go to the library and check out GM repair manual for this vehicle
2. Stop by the Pontiac dealer and talk with the Service Dept. The technician may even show you the Service Manual and/or give you some pointer
If I remember correctly, the trim around the HVAC and radio has to be taken out. You will probably need 7mm socket driver and Philips screwdriver for most GM vehicles
jt
Thanks,
Don Manzek
Thanks, all...
Still having similar problems, I suspect that the BCM is the next thing to replace. Anyone have suggestions for a source for a new, inexpensive BCM?
Just remember to do windows after..
Has anyone else noticed this particular sequence of events? That is, nothing goes wrong except when the car is cranked when warm?
I'm thinking about ordering a BCM online, since my local Autozone couldn't locate it in their catalog. Any advice? Thanks for any help.
Then we had our first oil change and the people could not figure out how to turn off the "change engine oil" indicator. It still goes away off and on to this day.
Next the rear hatch would not open completely with one press of the button (mostly when it is colder out) and one of us would have to be pulling up on it when we pressed the button again for it to open.
Now, oh boy, now we have all sorts of problems. The AC is currently out. We're having a local mechanic look at it and they think that is just due in part to a leak in one of the hoses. They put some free-on in and it worked great again for a day, but now it's back to just blowing air. They put a dye into the system so hopefully they will be able to find a leak for that.
Aside from that, the check engine light will randomly come on every once in a while for no reason. Recently my fiancee had told me that the temperature gauge had been spiking up and getting the warning on the display. After turning the car off and coming back, it's back to normal.
I've read a few things to try, like the method to turn off the oil light and a round about way to get rid of the strange happenings by detaching the battery for a while. I keep seeing BCM though. I'm not familiar with what this is so if anyone could give me any additional advice as to what to do for my issues, and/or explain to me what the BCM is and what it does, I would be greatful. Thanks in advance.
I reprogrammed the bcm to use only the key to open the doors and everything works the way it should.
I am a Master Certified Technician and a service instructor for GM. I own a 2001 Aztek. I love the vehicle and obviously don't stress over repairs because I can fix everything on a car. I have however been stumped by this Mystery Parasitic Draw issue. My students and I have run tests on it over and over again and we can't pinpoint it. I'm on third battery in 2 years. Top of the line Batteries, if I weren't who I am, the parts store wouldn't keep replacing them for free. The BCM is my best guess but that's all it is...an educated guess. I've pulled up the carpet and checked the electrical connectors under the drivers seat (I also have a fuel gauge intermittent, and AWD light on also inter.) This Aztec has been a great vehicle but it has a lot of little 'electrical Gremlins' in it. I will post again after BCM replacement. Keep me up to date as well.
Thanks
Bill Kitt
billkitt@bellsouth.net
People haven't posted about them for a while, so I'm assuming they don't do much.
Brian
I believe you are correct about the BCM. My problem began the same way, found out that after the ignition was turned off the radio stayed on as designed but after exiting, the BCM disabled the display but kept the amplifier active. I found the problem quite by accident after parking, turning the vehicle off and opening then closing the door while in the garage. I noticed a very faint hissing sound (amp white noise) in the vehicle which did not reset after 20 minutes.
After the second battery the disco deal started with the lights/gauges so I replaced the BCM and that corrected all the electrical problems.
Maybe a starting point.
Tim
I just purchased a 2001 Aztek AWD last week. It drives smooth and quiet. But after after a hour or so of driving or when I come from riding the turnpike at 70mph and stop at the toll booth and then accelrate it shifts HARD like a bump or light thud from gear to gear very sparatic. If I turn it off and let it sit and ride it no problems. It seems like every other start or after a hour of riding it brings on the hard/noticable shifting.
Can anyone tell me if this is a tranny problem or just a quirk with this vehicle?
Also what the average temp. while running/driving?
Mine stays at half and goes to 3/4 while sitting at a light and then cools down again to a bit above the half?
Normal or not?
Any help or info would be appreciated!
Thanks!
I'd be even more concerned with your average temperature. GM just settled a lawsuit about DexCool (http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/).
As an Aztek owner the car starts to deteriorate badly after five years. I really hope you got this from a dealer and can bring it back for something else - or at least bought warranty coverage. Believe me it will be worth it.
Good luck and try not to by GM products any more. My Aztek taught me my lesson.
I'm going to try to make an appointment at a shop that specializes in auto electric but thought I would throw this out here and see if anyone had any more suggestions.
door locks
interior lights
rear hatch
radio
I start up the car and nothing changes, the door locks don't work, the interior lights do not come on and the rear hatch will not open. They don't work with either the FOB or the in car switches. I tried taking out fuse #28 which I had seen mentioned in the forum, for 20-30 seconds, and then returning. No change. Is the car supposed to be running when you do this? Is was not when I did it.
So I don't have anymore clicking noises, but the Security warning is on and the radio is locked. I could live with most off, except the rear hatch not opening.
Any suggestions?
Edit....I pulled the wrong #28 fuse. I was pulling the one inside the car not the one under the hood. Everything is working again, but I won't know for a while wether it is acting up or not. If it is I guess I'll get a new BCM and see what happens.
Well you might want to get your rear hub bearings checked out.
I had mine replaces when I got the car in 2005, and then we had them replaces last April and they started up again at they end of the year and need to be replaced again. Can anyone say Lemon!!! :lemon:
Good luck