If you still have the tent and cooler, I would love to buy them. Also do you have a mattress If anyone else has a Tent, Mattress and Cooler for sale I am very interested in buying them. cjbrj@yahoo.com
Our 2002 Aztek has been making a noise that sounds like a lack of power steering fluid, except that it comes from the rear, for well over a year. I took it it to the dealer today and was told that flushing the differential does not work, and that i have to have the assembly replaced. This would cost 2500. Is this necessary? Any thoughts would be VERY appreciated.
Can anyone please email me with were I can find the tent that fits over the back of the Aztec? I found them once for like 100.00 but can't remember were I saw it!! Please email me with this info, Thank you.
Okay so I am not sure this actually fits under electrical but I saw that much earlier on it was discussed. Anyway here's our story We used to own a 2001 Aztek, and we loved it! Even with all of its crazy problems. It was still a great car, but in 2006 when the head gasket blew and we needed a new engine we could no longer hold on the car. We traded it in and have regretted it ever since. That brings us to this past weekend, while going on a road trip we found a 2001 Aztek, fully loaded. We looked it over, seemed ok. Ran the carfax, found nothing major and on a good note the intake manifold gasktet was already replaced. Dealer stated he found nothing wrong with car and appeared to be in great shape. We bought the car on Tuesday for $2500 under KBB. Now, since we have already owned one we expected problems... But we weren't expecting them quite so soon! I'll skip all the other piddly stuff that is wrong with it but I have two questions: The fuel gauge is broke. I know we can get the treatment stuff at GM but what's the chances that it is going to fix the problem, anyone know? My other question is today when we got in it the back seats had water on them. I was going to be out anyway so I ran it over to a body shop, they couldn't locate any apparent source of the water but found the entire rear end was wet. The only thing we really know is that the water is in the body, so we know its not just a window seal leak. The body shop wants to take it in and tear it apart to find the leak. Does anyone know where the leak may be coming from? Is there any cheap fix? We do have a roof rack. We also have rear audio so I am really afraid of the water damaging the wiring systems. Thanks for any guidance you may have.
I am just really hoping that we don't end up regretting our decision to buy another! :confuse:
Hi I just recently purchased my aztek and it did not come with the tent or the cooler....If anyone knows where I could possibly find them would be greatly appreciated....HELP!!! Katie
I noticed the temp gauge shooting up to red line a month ago - we live in the SW - very hot here. Figured out that the fans were not kicking in at all. Could this be the BCM?? Is that considered the same as the 'sending unit' in these cars? I'm not very mechanical, any info would help me. Meantime, I can't use my Aztek to go very far at all, not to mention not being able to use the much needed AC !! Please help -
Well when mine started that I brought it to a dealer and was told the fans kick on at a very high temp and not before ( cant remember what that was) but my husband thought it was ridiculous.. after countless $$$ spent it ended up being a head gasket AND intake manifold gasket both were gone and are common problems.. only problem was I had driven it and played the game of "lets see how far I can get" and the engine was toast. My reccomendation would be DONT DRIVE IT and have a mechanic check those 2 things b4 you toast your engine too.. I got rid of mine (broke my heart) :lemon: but now am driving a GMC Envoy XL and LOVE it!! :shades: Good luck!
Thx for reply - o.k., so it was the intake & head gasket on yours, BUT did your fans stop working?? I've had my '04 for 3 years and the temp gauge never went past the halfway mark even when it was 110 degrees, but it does now. The fans are not firing at all.
mine did the same thing, never went past 1/2 the first 3 yrs I owned it. Then it did, and the dealer mechanic was right it was kicking on at a higher temp.. way higher than it ever did. My husband even put a different thermostat in to accomodate to no avail.. I would seriously think of gettinng it checked. There is a meter you can put right on where the oil cap goes to see if there are any pressure leaks.. cant hurt to get it checked better than ending up like me and mine.... good luck!
I have the same problem with my car (groaning sound from the back). My millage is at 150 000km. I took it to my mechanic and he told me to change the oil in my differential which is very costly, and this has to be done twice. they flush it and refill once. then you need to drive it for a while and then they do it all over. can someone tell me where I can find the oil at a good price. the labor is not expensive. it's only takes one hour to change the oil.
I just bought my fifth. It is a 2005 with 53,000miles and is an AWD. This one has a speed related whine coming out of the very back of the transmission or the very front of the drive shaft. This is NOT the groan that comes out of the rear end. It runs fine but these are normally a very quite car. Not this one. It is not the tires, which I thought it was since the previous owner changed brands and profile. But it made the noise on a dirt road. So I jacked it up all the way around, put it drive, and it is directly related to the speed of the vehicle. It does not change based on the gear that the transmission. is in. Strictly speed related. Any one ever had this one and knows the fix? I just found this site so I hope I can help others since I have (3) 2001's and an 2004, all still in the family.
I have a 2001 Aztek which I love but when it has problems they are the oddest such as whats happening now. It doesnt do it all the time but it just started this morning and again this afternoon. What is happening.... go to start "Christine" and nothing, lights and everything work fine but wont turn over or even click. Tried to jump it, still nothing. Got a ride home and came back with hubby and he tried to start it, did the same thing but when he asked me about the #42 fuse which we've had to change before and I did again before going back to get him, well this is where it gets wierd... he left the key in the on position but not trying to start it and I went to the passenger side and when I opened the door the car started all by itself. A few hours later the same thing happened... no start so I left the key in on position and started to open the passenger door and what do ya know it started up on her own. Has anyone ever encountered this issue before? Hubby calls her Christine or Voodoo, since she must be posessed or something. Any suggestions would be helpful.
1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly (duct that attaches to the throttle body)This is easier then it looks and take only a couple of minutes to do. 2. Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat (use the radiator petcock for that). If your troubles are the same a mine there will be no water in the hose coming from the thermostate and no draining is necessary. 3. Remove the radiator hose from the housing. 4. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket. I boiled the old one and the new one in a pan over high heat to see if they would open as they should and noted that the old one only opened about 1/32 if an inch and the new one opened all the way to about 1 inch. Da...problem solved for me. The thermostate bolts are a nightmare to get to, I think it's a number 12 or 13mm open end wrench. The bottom bolt can be just loosened a little and the thermostate housing will lift off freely, the houseing has a slot for this purpose. If you take this route you will need to remove the throttle body which would be another nightmare, if you do and are able to be sure to have a new gasket on hand. Estimate time 5 hour because of the vary tight area to work in, using the two hand technique one finger above and one finger from below, small turn many times to secure. 5. Remove the thermostat. 6. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and the thermostat housing.
Install 1. Install the thermostat into the engine block. Before installing the new thermostate I refered to the site listed below for a jiggle valve (drill small hole so air can automaticaly escape) 2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket. I purchased a 180 degree which is not recommeded, but my problem is resolved. Be sure to replace the gasket, it comes with the new thermostate. Here is some useful information taken from this site: http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm When refilling the cooling system, air can become trapped under the thermostat. This will form a steam pocket that prevents the thermostat from opening and may cause the engine to overheat. Some cooling systems have one or more bleeder valves that can be opened to vent air from the system while refilling the system. If your cooling system does not have a bleeder valve, you can drill a small hole in the thermostat as shown. This will allow air to escape past the thermostat so it is not trapped inside the engine block. Some thermostats come with a similar feature called a "jiggle valve." There is a small hole in the thermostat with a pin that allows air to escape.
3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). This is critical as the housing is just made out of aluminum and you would not want to warp it and create a leak. I guessed these measurements because there is no room for the special wrench for this. 4. Install the radiator house to the thermostat housing. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and duct. Now would be a great time to replace the air filter if you need to. 6. Fill the cooling system with dex-cool, per procedure in the Owner's Manual. After you have filled it, use the air bleeding procedure to remove the excess air from the system. You may have to readjust the level by adding coolant and re-bleed the system after a couple days of driving to burp the air out of the system.' good luck
I would appreciate any advice on the most likely to be successful course of action for solving my problems - and I'm not sure that they are related.
My wife has a 2001 Aztek with just 66k miles. For the past 2 years the fuel & temp gauges take turns working - usually its the temp gauge that works. Just today the A/C blower just stopped working - one minute its fine, the next totally dead! I checked fuses and the a/c compressor spins and cold air weeps out of the vents - with no fan. The large relay/fuse does look slightly yellowed/burnt on the side - I pulled every HVAC fuse & fuse #28 (for BCM) - none were blown & still no blower fan.
Looking thru this forum I see potential causes as BCM, blower motor relay/harness, corroded wires under the front seat,...
Any chance of just a switch failing?
Separate failures, or related?
The wet wires is weakened as the temperature signal comes from the front of the car, not the rear & it is occasionally affected as well - in fact it was the first failure noted.
Are there any special steps to disconnect the seat electrical connections without setting off airbag in order to lift carpet. I also do not see any screws in door trim to allow lifting of carpet. I guess I'll just carefully "push" the door trim off.
The BCM replacement description is great - except that I can not get brightauto.com to register & Frugal Mechanic only lists ECM's. Where can I buy a BCM at discount today - if that is what I need? Of the related problems noted for BCM failure, I have only have remote unlocking issues - but the remote batteries are 8 years old - so is it batteries or BCM? The car battery is about 4 years old. I will trickle charge it tonight, as that is about the normal battery life here in Texas.
Obviously I could start replacing parts in a process of elimination - but that could get expensive quickly. Any focus that saves $ and mechanics time is greatly appreciated.
Just replaced the blower motor resistor - fan is back working at all speeds. Plug was slightly burnt/melted at connector on hot wire. Hope that cause was resistor failure, not over-voltage from switch - sudden failure while operating leans towards that failure.
Still have the gauge issue with the fuel & temp. Will look under seat for rust/corrosion next. Hope that it is not an instrument cluster problem. Could BCM cause only a gauge problem?
I've got an '02 Aztek and now there's a metallic clanging / squealing noise coming from the front right wheel well. Used to be only when turning left, but now even when driving straight. Is this a CV joint gone bad? I've had wheel bearings replaced a long time ago, and there's no shuddering like there was with that... Thanks!
I've got an '02 Aztek and now there's a metallic clanging / squealing noise coming from the front right wheel well. Used to be only when turning left, but now even when driving straight. Is this a CV joint gone bad? Wheel bearings were replaced a long time ago, and there's no shuddering like there was with that... Any insight would be great. Thanks!
hey ray80 i too have an 2002 aztek and all these problems I have,my bcm is all messed up with power shorts, probally from this Leakage u all keep talking about. But every time it rains it shorts out my whole instrument cluster and wont start. now the key gets stuck, but i can get that out no prob. i keep charging the battery, checking the fuses (even Resetting the BCM#28 fuse) but to no avail IT DONT START ! It Dont Even Turn Over At All Now, Please Help Ray80 !!!
every time it rains its real bad but this time its worse, i had to have it towed! For some reason it wont start at all, not turning over or anything.When i turn the key i get all my power and a few seconds later the error lights start to flash. when i try to start the car all power dies until i release the key, but then the key is stuck in the ignition(i fix that prob easily with the access hole GM installed under the wheel.I keep trying the BCM #28 Fuse to reset it ; I disconnect the battery all the time to reset anything else, and i keep charging it every couple of days at night on low amp. i need some real help!!!!!
I've ripped up most of my driver side carpet, and i see wiring harnesses along the door and perpindicular accross toward my center counsel.. I have yet to find any visably connectors only wiring harnesses. could anyone please explain to me exactly where to look and what to do Im all ears, Please help!!!!!
I need a Tent Kit (tent and matress) if anyone is selling theres and it is in good condition I am very interested and willing to pay the price you paid when it was new. email me thank you!
Nice mess you have there . Speaking generally the electrical stuff doesn't use much power and will tend to work (initialy) even if power is low, but starting takes a lot of juice and if that is drained trying to start (whether or not it turns over) it can lead to key getting stuck and various other symptoms due to low voltage. If the battery is original that may be a place to start as it could very well being showing its age even if it works most of the time (some places like autozone will test it for free). Next thing I would want to be sure of is cable connections both on battery side and perhaps to the underhood fuse box to make sure they are tight and not corroded. I had a little bump on the mating surface on the battery that caused a bad connection that lead to start failure once a month, very annoying till I fixed it. Also you would want to make sure the plastic part on cable end that is supposed to go over the connection on battery isn't tucked under and creating bad connection. If there truely is a rainy day thing where you have water intrusion in cabin causing problems you have to find the cause and correct that first and then see what happens.
For those looking for tent, if you can't find one on ebay or elsewhere a pehaps reasonable alternative is the sportz model 80000 from napier. Doesn't fit as neat as its kind of fitzall for various vehicles but it does work and gives you more room.
There is a procedure listed in 'guides' section here at edmunds. Just search on aztek under maintence. The last one I had to do required removing the bolt that holds underhood fuse box in place, be careful as the connector there could jump up and fall into fender never to be found again. battery
I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek. This past Friday when I was leaving work I started the car and it started but there was nothing in the odometer and all of the warning lights were on. I turned off the car then turned it back on and it was fine. As I was driving the car started sputtering and within five minutes it just died. It wouldn't start, no turning over of the engine, nothing. When we jumped it and pumped the gas it would go but once you stopped revving the engine it would die again. Ontop of this problem the key now is getting stuck in the ignition and will not come out. It is in park but will not come out unless you restart the car (which you have to jump and rev the engine to get started) Any ideas what the problem might be? We've had someone test our alternator and that is fine. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
2004, great car, small problems, nothing major...interior light switch seems to have malfunctioned. Dashboard lights won't some on. Must I replace whole unit behind dash?
I have a 2003 Aztek. My wife was driving it yesterday and the transmission started acting strange. I went down to check it out. The transmission will shift into reverse and neutral. But when I shift it into drive, it starts to shutter badly. I then went to the local dealership this morning to see if it was covered under warranty. (The owners manual says 8 years/80,000 miles) I mentioned this to the service technician and he said that it is only covered for 3 years/36,000 and the information that I had was for catalytic converters, etc. I am so furious right now. I ended up sending an e-mail to Pontiac, to let them know what I think of their products. I have told them that it will be the last Pontiac that I buy. And it is no wonder the Pontiac brand is going bye-bye. Too many cut corners and crappy products. There are numerous TSB's for the 3.4L engine, (which I had fixed for $750.00) and for the crappy transmission. just my 2 cents. Thanks for letting me vent.
I just signed up for this site so please forgive me if this question has already been discussed. I have a 2001 Aztek, when we are stopped but the vehicle is still running, it has a loud grinding noise. I thought the book said it had a fan that cools the car down but this is pretty loud. Is this normal? It goes away after a little bit.
I have an 02 aztek AWD and everytime i shift into park, drive or reverse i hear a clunk sound, like crunch clunk.. to me it sounds like when a pick up has a bad ujoint. Now being this vehicle is awd i dont know what this sound is from. there is no other drivetrain issues just this crunch. I hear maybe its the prop shaft? not sure what the signs of this being bad are.. my axels are seeming in good condition. I can crawl under the aztek and physically spin the driveshaft slighty and can hear the clunk when i do this. the driveshaft in these are 2 separate looking instead of one long one.
What am i hearing?? how can it be fixed?? pleaseee help!!
I have an 02 aztek AWD and everytime i shift into park, drive or reverse i hear a clunk sound, like crunch clunk.. to me it sounds like when a pick up has a bad ujoint. Now being this vehicle is awd i dont know what this sound is from. there is no other drivetrain issues just this crunch. I hear maybe its the prop shaft? not sure what the signs of this being bad are.. my axels are seeming in good condition. I can crawl under the aztek and physically spin the driveshaft slighty and can hear the clunk when i do this. the driveshaft in these are 2 separate looking instead of one long one.
What am i hearing?? how can it be fixed?? pleaseee help!!
hey,...i have your exact same problem,...were you ever able to rectify it???and how,...thanks,..or if anyone can help,..i have a 2001 pontiac aztec sometimes it will start other times it wont ,..only thing that will click is the relay,.when i put a scanner on it ,it will communicate with everything but the pcm,..says a bad data 2 link when u read the bcm,...ive tried everything,..please help
I currently have my aztek in pieces for the same problem. My battery connections are fine (even took the rubber piece off my neg. cable ), I replaced my battery and starter twice, I tested ALL my fuses they were good, but replaced some anyway. all my ground and positive connections are sound but my starter still won't engage(same problem as cathy's aztek)
you just described my aztek to the letter all I know is what it's not.... I have mine almost completely gutted trying to find the problem... I tested all fuses, they were good, changed a few anyway... I changed the starter and the battery twice... both battery connections are good.. all positive and negative connections on the van are sound.... People with the same problem have changed their p.c.m. and b.c.m. and that didn't help... I have my column pulled apart and there is a little mechanism that works in conjunction with the key cylinder via a plastic gear, I even pulled that boy apart there was nothing wrong with it.... I took a dremel tool and disassembled my key cylinder and there is nothing that would cause this problem.... I pulled out all my carpeting to see if there were any wet wiring, there was, and it's been drying for months yet I still have the same problemall wiring harnesses are clean and connected (even in the back of both fuse panels, which is no easy task). All of this started with my traction control going on the fritz then everything ryanhenderson described, now I,m at the point where I get all my accessories I just can't get my starter to engage.
i can tell you exactly where the problems are with these aztecs,....theres 2 wire harness plugs that sit in the engine compartment just below the fuse box,...one fastened to the side of the abs mount and one fastened to the front,...follow the front harness toward the back of the engine,...about 8 inches from the plug you will find that the harness sits against or on the shifter cable for the transmission,..and the cable wheres threw the wire causing you the problems with both bcm,ecm,and starting issues,...repair it,..and move the harness away from the cable by fastening it up with tie wraps,...and your done,...let me know how u made out,...good luck
well, I checked out that shifter cable and wiring harness that you were talking about. Although there was wear on the shifter cable it seemed to be contacting bracket that the wiring harness attached to, and not the wiring harness itself. I still disconnected and closely inspected the harness and the wiring, but I couldn't find any damage (and I REALLY looked), there was only dirt. so I cleaned it then gave it a try...still won't engage the starter thanks, though, that gave me more ideas
well, I checked out that shifter cable and wiring harness that you were talking about. Although there was wear on the shifter cable it seemed to be contacting bracket that the wiring harness attached to, and not the wiring harness itself. I still disconnected and closely inspected the harness and the wiring, but I couldn't find any damage (and I REALLY looked), there was only dirt. so I cleaned it then gave it a try...still won't engage the starter
Comments
Also do you have a mattress If anyone else has a Tent, Mattress and Cooler for sale I am very interested in buying them.
cjbrj@yahoo.com
We used to own a 2001 Aztek, and we loved it! Even with all of its crazy problems. It was still a great car, but in 2006 when the head gasket blew and we needed a new engine we could no longer hold on the car. We traded it in and have regretted it ever since.
That brings us to this past weekend, while going on a road trip we found a 2001 Aztek, fully loaded. We looked it over, seemed ok. Ran the carfax, found nothing major and on a good note the intake manifold gasktet was already replaced. Dealer stated he found nothing wrong with car and appeared to be in great shape. We bought the car on Tuesday for $2500 under KBB. Now, since we have already owned one we expected problems... But we weren't expecting them quite so soon!
I'll skip all the other piddly stuff that is wrong with it but I have two questions:
The fuel gauge is broke. I know we can get the treatment stuff at GM but what's the chances that it is going to fix the problem, anyone know?
My other question is today when we got in it the back seats had water on them. I was going to be out anyway so I ran it over to a body shop, they couldn't locate any apparent source of the water but found the entire rear end was wet. The only thing we really know is that the water is in the body, so we know its not just a window seal leak. The body shop wants to take it in and tear it apart to find the leak. Does anyone know where the leak may be coming from? Is there any cheap fix? We do have a roof rack. We also have rear audio so I am really afraid of the water damaging the wiring systems. Thanks for any guidance you may have.
I am just really hoping that we don't end up regretting our decision to buy another! :confuse:
Please help -
2. Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat (use the radiator petcock for that). If your troubles are the same a mine there will be no water in the hose coming from the thermostate and no draining is necessary.
3. Remove the radiator hose from the housing.
4. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket. I boiled the old one and the new one in a pan over high heat to see if they would open as they should and noted that the old one only opened about 1/32 if an inch and the new one opened all the way to about 1 inch. Da...problem solved for me. The thermostate bolts are a nightmare to get to, I think it's a number 12 or 13mm open end wrench. The bottom bolt can be just loosened a little and the thermostate housing will lift off freely, the houseing has a slot for this purpose. If you take this route you will need to remove the throttle body which would be another nightmare, if you do and are able to be sure to have a new gasket on hand. Estimate time 5 hour because of the vary tight area to work in, using the two hand technique one finger above and one finger from below, small turn many times to secure.
5. Remove the thermostat.
6. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and the thermostat housing.
Install
1. Install the thermostat into the engine block. Before installing the new thermostate I refered to the site listed below for a jiggle valve (drill small hole so air can automaticaly escape)
2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket. I purchased a 180 degree which is not recommeded, but my problem is resolved. Be sure to replace the gasket, it comes with the new thermostate.
Here is some useful information taken from this site:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm
When refilling the cooling system, air can become trapped under the thermostat. This will form a steam pocket that prevents the thermostat from opening and may cause the engine to overheat. Some cooling systems have one or more bleeder valves that can be opened to vent air from the system while refilling the system. If your cooling system does not have a bleeder valve, you can drill a small hole in the thermostat as shown. This will allow air to escape past the thermostat so it is not trapped inside the engine block. Some thermostats come with a similar feature called a "jiggle valve." There is a small hole in the thermostat with a pin that allows air to escape.
3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). This is critical as the housing is just made out of aluminum and you would not want to warp it and create a leak. I guessed these measurements because there is no room for the special wrench for this.
4. Install the radiator house to the thermostat housing.
5. Install the air cleaner assembly and duct. Now would be a great time to replace the air filter if you need to.
6. Fill the cooling system with dex-cool, per procedure in the Owner's Manual. After you have filled it, use the air bleeding procedure to remove the excess air from the system. You may have to readjust the level by adding coolant and re-bleed the system after a couple days of driving to burp the air out of the system.' good luck
My wife has a 2001 Aztek with just 66k miles. For the past 2 years the fuel & temp gauges take turns working - usually its the temp gauge that works. Just today the A/C blower just stopped working - one minute its fine, the next totally dead! I checked fuses and the a/c compressor spins and cold air weeps out of the vents - with no fan. The large relay/fuse does look slightly yellowed/burnt on the side - I pulled every HVAC fuse & fuse #28 (for BCM) - none were blown & still no blower fan.
Looking thru this forum I see potential causes as BCM, blower motor relay/harness, corroded wires under the front seat,...
Any chance of just a switch failing?
Separate failures, or related?
The wet wires is weakened as the temperature signal comes from the front of the car, not the rear & it is occasionally affected as well - in fact it was the first failure noted.
Are there any special steps to disconnect the seat electrical connections without setting off airbag in order to lift carpet. I also do not see any screws in door trim to allow lifting of carpet. I guess I'll just carefully "push" the door trim off.
The BCM replacement description is great - except that I can not get brightauto.com to register & Frugal Mechanic only lists ECM's. Where can I buy a BCM at discount today - if that is what I need? Of the related problems noted for BCM failure, I have only have remote unlocking issues - but the remote batteries are 8 years old - so is it batteries or BCM? The car battery is about 4 years old. I will trickle charge it tonight, as that is about the normal battery life here in Texas.
Obviously I could start replacing parts in a process of elimination - but that could get expensive quickly. Any focus that saves $ and mechanics time is greatly appreciated.
Still have the gauge issue with the fuel & temp. Will look under seat for rust/corrosion next. Hope that it is not an instrument cluster problem. Could BCM cause only a gauge problem?
jump up and fall into fender never to be found again.
battery
Ontop of this problem the key now is getting stuck in the ignition and will not come out. It is in park but will not come out unless you restart the car (which you have to jump and rev the engine to get started) Any ideas what the problem might be? We've had someone test our alternator and that is fine. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
What am i hearing?? how can it be fixed??
pleaseee help!!
What am i hearing?? how can it be fixed??
pleaseee help!!
thanks, though, that gave me more ideas