Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
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Assuming the cap is properly tightened now and not mis-aligned or anything, it may take several restart cycles (maybe a few days) for the light to go out on its own (system runs a check every time vehicle is started and needs a few 'good' checks before turning light off). Also if the seal on cap isn't good it could create the problem and tightening may not help.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
If I remember correctly, it was the wiring
Or where the horn under the hood is located?
I've looked EVERYWHERE and can't find it.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Someone who can read the electrical schematic should be able to find out which components the 10 Amps fuse connected to, and check out these components. The cables, adapters, run between the components and the fuse might short out somewhere. Is the BDM connected to tha 10 amp fuse?
If the defective part is inside the dashboard (I am doubt that) the repair will be expensive.
A defective BDM probably can create the symptoms that you describe, but I don' t think it blows the 10 amp fuse off and on.
We have also had the problem with the key getting stuck in the ignition and if you don't put the steering wheel in the lowest position, the key will not go to the off position or come out.
Our biggest problem right now is the annoying brake light, any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thank you!!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
We have also had the problem with the key getting stuck in the ignition and if you don't put the steering wheel in the lowest position, the key will not go to the off position or come out.
Our biggest problem right now is the annoying brake light, any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thank you!!
If I were you, I would purchase another key fob from the dealer, and let them figure out the problem. I think they charge $80 for the new key fob including the programing. If it works, asking them how they "program" it, and do it by yourself with the extra key. If they could not make it work, you can refuse the fix and the key fob. Or, pay them to fix the problems,
Just adjusted the wires so they were always putting pressure on the connector, and voila! No problems since.
Cheers, Mike
fuse box), and no auto parts store could get the diodes... I was happy to pay fifteen dollars and get several of each! I highly recommend this.
Cheers, Mike
1. filled system
2. opened drivers side bleed valve first and applied air pressure to radiator until a steady stream flowed from valve and closed while still flowing not to suck up air. And did the other valve the same way.
3. topped of radiator again and ran engine, right away the radiator would start burping out the fill hole. It does not seem to be flowing around, just burping. Filled and closed cap.
4. drove 15 minutes with heat on, which was hot at start then went cold when overheating started. 3/4 gage to alarm overheat in less then 1 minute after cold air started flowing from heater.
5. turned air conditioner on to make sure fans would be on high, but it did not help.
6. shifted to d3 with rpms over 2000 and no change.
The next thing that I will change is the water pump I guess, only $20
Then LIM lower intake manifold gasket, around $50 I think. This could be a lot of work, maybe more then the thermostat was. I won't go into that after three times, the second time I made a mistake and after 4 hours of work realized that I had put the old one back in again, old one meaning the second one which I modified by drilling a small hole in it so it could help release air. So pulled that one out and removed the guts of the stat and installed it with only the stat ring and seal to see if running without a stat would help. That was of no help.
Can someone give me a little good advice, other driving it into a lake. My email address is garygruich@sbcglobal.net :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
I always thought that having the filler rube in the wheel well was kind of strange and susceptible to problems. I don't now if the filler tube is a separate part or part of the fuel tank. Can anyone help me understand this, or if you have had the recall work done, explain what happened with you.
Thanks
I took it to an auto electric repair shop (it's all they do) and they diagnosed it as either the BCM or the ignition switch. A BCM (from a dealer) will cost $300 or more. The electric place charged me $120 to replace the switch. That was at 126,000 miles, it now has 202,000 miles on it, and no problems.
My second Aztek had the "flashing lights" syndrome. Engine runs fine, but the dash lights, radio and head/tail lights would flash and the dash would look like it does when you just started it. Replaced ignition switch (from Autozone). Cured the problem for 3 days, then had to replace with one from dealer. No problems so far.
Take it to a dealer or reputable repair facility and have them diagnose it. I would bet it's the switch.
I popped the passenger switch panel off and looked at the wires and switch itself. I pop the switch off, and replugged it in. The Window is now working just fine....but whenever I snap the cover back into place....the up switch stops working again....why? I make sure everything was secure before putting the cover back on....happens each time.....
just want to get the darn thing fixed!
Was it a good experience?