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Just wondering if anyone knows where the evap canister is on a 2004 tek. Getting a large leak code in the evap system so I want to check it out. I've tightend the fuel cap and put some dryer in the tank so any help would be sweet.
I believe the canister is in the engine compartment, looks sorta like a coffee can. A couple things before you look there in case you haven't checked them out already: Assuming the cap is properly tightened now and not mis-aligned or anything, it may take several restart cycles (maybe a few days) for the light to go out on its own (system runs a check every time vehicle is started and needs a few 'good' checks before turning light off). Also if the seal on cap isn't good it could create the problem and tightening may not help.
Thanks Ray. The light turned off yesterday so hopefully thats it for that one. I'm also having a temp issue. The rad doesn't seem to be cooling like it should be. temp goes above half when sitting and cools down to just above 1/4 when driving. I've changed the thermostat(fun), flushed the rad, and taken off the fans(also fun) and sprayed water through the backside of the rad to try to clear out any build up on the radiator and condenser but it seems to have little effect. any thoughts?
My 03 Aztec has had a temp. gauge problem since the car was new (registering too high). However, the car has never overheated. The dealer gave up in trying to fix the problem (I could say lots of words here about this!). The gauge still does not register correctly much of the time. Maybe the problem is the instrument cluster or maybe the BCM or something else. Anyway, my point is make sure the engine temperature is out of spec. before you worry too much about it.
We have been hearing a grinding noise for some time. It is not the bearings though the sound is similar to when we had to replace bearings previously. (Bearings are tight.) Think it might be the rear differential needs fluid. Parts store says that is a GM "part" not available except through dealers. Is that true? If not, how do I tell what fluid it needs, and where would that be available? Thanks!
Kinda scary seeing that neddle go up towards the red when sitting for extended period. It is however a normal thing for it to go up that high and it is operating within normal specs. If you happened to have radio off and in a quiet place (with air off) you might be able to hear when fans come on and think its sorta late but is operating normaly. As long as it does go down once your moving again and doesn't actually hit the red zone you shoud be fine though.
I have a tent from an 01 Aztek. Bought new and used only a couple times. In great condition and comes with mattress. Let me know if you are interested. nlaumick@yahoo.com
This is not the place for selling, buying or swapping goods and services. If you wish to engage in such activity please take it to email and leave it off the Forums. Thank you.
I was wondering on the 03 aztek was the cabin air filter a standard or optional item, i went looking behind my glove box and noticed a slot for the filter but their was no filter. so does that mean it is missing and if not can i put a filter in there? Another question I have the basic stereo system with the single slot CD player, could I replace that with the 6 disc changer head unit that came on the more loaded azteks? when i bought my car i didn't get any RKE receivers so i am assuming i do not have the keyless entry option, can i buy the receivers and program them to the car or do i have to add additional stuff like modules and such.....
I just had our 2001 aztec serviced by Maltbie Chevrolet in Lake George,N.Y. for all of the same issues you are having. At first they thought it was the IGNITION SWITCH so they replaced that. It still was not sending the signal from there to the ECM to start. So they followed the wires from the IGNITION SWITCH towards the ECM. At this point they explained in the bill after removing the protective cover off of the wires they noticed some corroding and while inspecting the wires some of them were corroded and a few were broken through. They used some G.M. splice kits to fix the connections and low and behold it started. So they re tried my Ignition switch aand mine was fine so they removed the new one to save me some money. The bill was $306.00 and it is running perfect now. It also fixed every electrical issue with the vehicle. (no start,security light, battery being drained) Most of the bill was for labor to find the problem so if you brought yours in somewhere with this message I am pretty certain this would fix your problem. And them knowing what to look for would save them time and you money.
This sounds like you have a intake gasket leak. You may not be seeing any fluid on your garage floor because you are only at idle.If yous aztec is pushing the antifreeze into your over-flow tank and not sucking it back out on it own when it cools you definately have a leak somewhere.
Becareful playing roulette with the shifter... I got stuck in front of an ATM machine for 3 hours.... Had to be towed.. It was not a good night. Lots of mad people behind me at the ATM
The horn in my '02 Aztek doesn't work. I've tried changing out the fuse, maybe i m not using the correct amps/voltage for the horn, does anyone know what is the correct number for that? Or where the horn under the hood is located? I've looked EVERYWHERE and can't find it.
It should be right behind the headlight assembly (either driver side or passenger side). If you still can't find it, try opening the hood and have another person activate the horn while you're standing out front.
i have read alot of these problems and most sound like what we are dealing with,the car wont start,cant get it out of park into neutral,windows wont go down,clicking some where in the fuse box(passenger side) we took it to have someone work on it twice and both times was told it was a fuse(10 amp) it worked for a few months the first time and it just happened again last week and we got it back running( same fuse)it ran for 2 days then started its thing all over again so i replaced that fuse and it has blown every fuse i put in it.i was told it could be a short somewhere behind the dash and that it would be exspensive to fix,would the bcm that i read about in this forum be the cause of these problems?any help at all would be a blessing
It seems like there is a short somewhere, and perhaps an electrical component is going bad.
Someone who can read the electrical schematic should be able to find out which components the 10 Amps fuse connected to, and check out these components. The cables, adapters, run between the components and the fuse might short out somewhere. Is the BDM connected to tha 10 amp fuse?
If the defective part is inside the dashboard (I am doubt that) the repair will be expensive.
A defective BDM probably can create the symptoms that you describe, but I don' t think it blows the 10 amp fuse off and on.
I've been having a small electrical pproblem in my 2001 Aztek. When the headlights are on the interior lights flicker and do so until the headlights turn off. I don't have any of the other problems I see on this forum. I"ve checked battery connections as well as remove the fuse #28 in the under fuse box and it makes no difference. I ordered a replacement BCM from AC Delco (new type) just in case. I have two of these cars and like them very much so if I end up not using the part I'll still have it just in case. If anyone is having this problem with there car, please let me know. Many Thanks in advance.
A few years ago, we started having problems. My husband replaced the front brakes, after that, the anti-lock light came on, nobody can find a problem. Soon after that, the gas gage stopped working, we are always either totally full or totally empty. Then, the Service Engine Soon light came on, again, can not find anything wrong. So, we have been driving it for the past 2-3 years with these problems. Recently (within the past 1 1/2 weeks), the red dash brake light started coming on. It will come on while driving, no need to touch the brakes, and it dings incessently until the car is shut off and restarted, which we usually just shift into neutral and shut off and restart, otherwise it is extremely annoying. We have also had the problem with the key getting stuck in the ignition and if you don't put the steering wheel in the lowest position, the key will not go to the off position or come out. Our biggest problem right now is the annoying brake light, any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thank you!!
A few years ago, we started having problems. My husband replaced the front brakes, after that, the anti-lock light came on, nobody can find a problem. Soon after that, the gas gage stopped working, we are always either totally full or totally empty. Then, the Service Engine Soon light came on, again, can not find anything wrong. So, we have been driving it for the past 2-3 years with these problems. Recently (within the past 1 1/2 weeks), the red dash brake light started coming on. It will come on while driving, no need to touch the brakes, and it dings incessently until the car is shut off and restarted, which we usually just shift into neutral and shut off and restart, otherwise it is extremely annoying. We have also had the problem with the key getting stuck in the ignition and if you don't put the steering wheel in the lowest position, the key will not go to the off position or come out. Our biggest problem right now is the annoying brake light, any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thank you!!
We are love trouble so we have recently acquired a second Aztek (after our first one blew its motor a few yrs back). The dealer said everything was fine but that was a lie. Anyway the most major problem is the transmission. About two months ago I thought we lost the transmission altogether. I had been on the hwy doing about 70 mph and it was just shifting horribly hard. Then once I reached my destination the check engine light came on and when I hit the gas there was a horrendous grinding sound. When I got ready to leave the place I took the Aztek to a nearby repair shop, after running the codes they said it was the transmission and to get it to a transmission place ASAP. On the 30 mile drive back home it was fine!! I took it to the repair place anyway and after having it for 2 days they found nothing, They said to just keep driving it until something goes wrong. I've been cautious to drive it too far but ever since then it has acted fine. That was up until this weekend, now it back to shifting roughly (though not every time I drive it). Today was the worst, when accelerating at each shift the car would lurch and then there was a knocking type noise (not an engine knocking). It felt like it was lurching forward and then kicking back. Any ideas on what this could be? I hate to keep driving it if at any moment I am going to lose my transmission. Any suggestion would be great (ok any suggestion other than to get rid of the car ;-))
I recently purchased a factory key fob online for my 2002 pontiac aztek and tried to program it. I couldn't even get the aztek to go into programming mode (the three chimes you are supposed to hear - never happened). I called the people that I bought the fob from and they said it was probably a security problem and to check the fuses or call a dealer. Well, I checked every fuse I could find related to keyless entry and they were all good. The dealer wants HUNDREDS just to look at it, so I am thinking of giving up. However, I only have one key and one key fob, so I really need a second. Can anyone help??
This happens with my 2004 Aztek too. I simply turn the key off and then start the car again, no waiting time involved. This has worked every time for me.
My $20 Aztek key fob purchased on line has no problem.
If I were you, I would purchase another key fob from the dealer, and let them figure out the problem. I think they charge $80 for the new key fob including the programing. If it works, asking them how they "program" it, and do it by yourself with the extra key. If they could not make it work, you can refuse the fix and the key fob. Or, pay them to fix the problems,
Thanks for the ideas. I finally figured out that on my Aztek, you have to hold in the odometer/trip reset button for two seconds to go into programming mode. I was able to unprogram and reprogram the original aftermarket remote that came with my Aztek, but I still couldn't program the "factory" key fob that I bought online. I checked with two of the local dealerships and they want $150+ for a key fob and programming, and they won't give me the part number of the key fob (so I could order another one online). I might try paying them to program the "factory" remote that I bought online and then if they can't at least I will know that I have the wrong key fob.
My replacement BCM arrived yesterday (p/n 15235418) so I stoped by the Pontiac dealer and they want $125.00 to flash the new BCM so I went on to the Chevrolet dealer and they said $84.00 so it pays to check around ! I'll let you know if this solves the problem (see post no. 326) Maybe this will help if anyone else has this problem with their Tek.
I know your post is kind of old so I'm sure you're fixed already, but my car was doing the same thing... I popped off the panel under the glovebox, and found the wires going into the blower motor were at an angle... sometimes connected, sometimes not. Just adjusted the wires so they were always putting pressure on the connector, and voila! No problems since. Cheers, Mike
I went to the local salvage yard today where they had three wrecked Azteks. Since Napa was going to charge 77 dollars for the "number 10" (passenger compartment fuse box), and no auto parts store could get the diodes... I was happy to pay fifteen dollars and get several of each! I highly recommend this. Cheers, Mike
Well now after many,many bleeds 3 thermostat changes (running without one now). The car overheats after 15 minutes of running on local streets. The overflow tank fill up when overheated and alarms are sounding, and bubbles continue to enter the tank from the over flow hose. The hose is all the way into the tank to the bottom so that it does not suck air as coolant is needed. 1. filled system 2. opened drivers side bleed valve first and applied air pressure to radiator until a steady stream flowed from valve and closed while still flowing not to suck up air. And did the other valve the same way. 3. topped of radiator again and ran engine, right away the radiator would start burping out the fill hole. It does not seem to be flowing around, just burping. Filled and closed cap. 4. drove 15 minutes with heat on, which was hot at start then went cold when overheating started. 3/4 gage to alarm overheat in less then 1 minute after cold air started flowing from heater. 5. turned air conditioner on to make sure fans would be on high, but it did not help. 6. shifted to d3 with rpms over 2000 and no change. The next thing that I will change is the water pump I guess, only $20 Then LIM lower intake manifold gasket, around $50 I think. This could be a lot of work, maybe more then the thermostat was. I won't go into that after three times, the second time I made a mistake and after 4 hours of work realized that I had put the old one back in again, old one meaning the second one which I modified by drilling a small hole in it so it could help release air. So pulled that one out and removed the guts of the stat and installed it with only the stat ring and seal to see if running without a stat would help. That was of no help. Can someone give me a little good advice, other driving it into a lake. My email address is garygruich@sbcglobal.net :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
I just went to replace battery, the bolt for the hold down was spinning and not coming loose. We just had to destroy the hold down wedge, then got the battery out. We then removed the battery tray and found that the nut on the underside is actually molded into the tray, so the tray broke and was spinning. Answer- will have to buy a whole new tray = YAY! Excited about that, soooo....whatever you do make SURE you use anit-seize on the hold down bolt so this does not happen to you. It is atypical that you get to replace a battery in your garage, ususally side of the road or other...
Ok, I'm getting closer to solving my emissions problems. I had a smoke test done at a friends repair center and found that the gas filler tube is leaking badly. Two years ago I got a recall notice about gas tank problems but did nothing because I never smelled gas or saw saw it dripping from the tank area. Now I'm wondering if this filler tube corrosion is part of that recall. Does anyone have any knowledge of this or had the recall 07V-349 I always thought that having the filler rube in the wheel well was kind of strange and susceptible to problems. I don't now if the filler tube is a separate part or part of the fuel tank. Can anyone help me understand this, or if you have had the recall work done, explain what happened with you. Thanks
I have 2 2001 Pontiac Azteks. The first one did this EXACT same thing. The engine would cut out, the gauges would "die" but car would stay running, the gauges would work, but the engine would die. Couldn't get the key out etc....
I took it to an auto electric repair shop (it's all they do) and they diagnosed it as either the BCM or the ignition switch. A BCM (from a dealer) will cost $300 or more. The electric place charged me $120 to replace the switch. That was at 126,000 miles, it now has 202,000 miles on it, and no problems.
My second Aztek had the "flashing lights" syndrome. Engine runs fine, but the dash lights, radio and head/tail lights would flash and the dash would look like it does when you just started it. Replaced ignition switch (from Autozone). Cured the problem for 3 days, then had to replace with one from dealer. No problems so far.
Take it to a dealer or reputable repair facility and have them diagnose it. I would bet it's the switch.
Hi, I am new to this site but didn't know all these problems were going on with other people. My problem took a toll for the worst because on 10/12/09 my husband was travleing on the interstate when the HEATER would not work WINDOWS would just do its on thing BRAKE LIGHT came on AIR BAG LIGHT came chiming and the the AIR BAG DEPLOYED WHILE HE WAS DRIVING. Pontiac want to take my car to a dealer to inspect what caused the problem. I THINK AT THIS POINT THESE CARS SHOULD BE RECALLED..... What can I do to help since this is what happened to me I thought the heater coil was bad but it"s but it's not the car is a real SAFTEY concern.>>> please respond ASAP I AM waiting to hear for the inspector>>>>> :mad: :lemon:
Hello. I have a 2002 Aztek...the passenger window is acting up. I can put it down and it will not work going back up. The driver side can control its functions with no problems. I popped the passenger switch panel off and looked at the wires and switch itself. I pop the switch off, and replugged it in. The Window is now working just fine....but whenever I snap the cover back into place....the up switch stops working again....why? I make sure everything was secure before putting the cover back on....happens each time.....
It could be a faulty sensor or a serious issue....i suggests a dealership....but they may charge you for it....I guess better safe than sorry if theres something wrong with the airbags...
that is what i was thanking i i just got the car but im going to have it look over by a dealership to find out what is going on be for i tack it back to the ppl and tell them to fix it..... :confuse:
For the anti-lock brake light it may be a wheel sensor, but many times it is and issue with wiring to the sensor that is culprit. I believe you may have to go to GM dealer for scan to determine exactly which wheel it may be complaing about. For the airbag light there may be an issue with connector under seat (loose/corroded)
the door window switch has gone bad even though the rest work u have to get a whole new one ive gone to junk yards since last year and there all gone good luck i still haven't gotten one my mechanic got mines to go up now i just dnt touch it. :sick:
l tried to start my 2001 pontiac aztek this afternoon, but found that the lights were out and the key was stuck in the ignition, l got a friend to boost the battery and it started right away but hear a hissing noise coming from the engine area probably the alternator, and it gets louder when l press on gas. l got home , and tried to take out the key again and everything was dead again. the battery is less than a year old, l replaced old one because l thot it will save me future headache since l bought the car from the previous owner in Decemeber 08. l have aslo had the BCM replaced that same month also when the key will not not turn but the lights were working. Can somebody please tell me what the real problem is? and is advisable to drive the vehicle to my mechanic which take about 40 minutes drive after another jumpstart tomorrow morning? l just had the spark plugs and wire replaced also. l remember plugging my hand vacumm cleaner to the cigarette lighter in the vechicle to clean the interior yesterday and didnot drive the vehicle afterwards until today. l had the same problem last week when l forgot to turn off my radio button before exiting the vehicle and had to get a boost also. a colleague at work tightened the ground terminal on the battery and l thot that the whole problem was over until today.. l would really appreciate if anybody knows the real answer to my problem and what will be the cost estimate to have it fix? Thanks alot
Amy, If you have someone that can help you try grabbing the the bundle of wires under seat (could be drivers or front passenger seat) near connection while vehicle is running and wiggle them a bit while someone watchs the light, if it goes out you have found the problem. It will likely have to go to dealer anyway but it may pimpoint where trouble is.
Comments
Assuming the cap is properly tightened now and not mis-aligned or anything, it may take several restart cycles (maybe a few days) for the light to go out on its own (system runs a check every time vehicle is started and needs a few 'good' checks before turning light off). Also if the seal on cap isn't good it could create the problem and tightening may not help.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
If I remember correctly, it was the wiring
Or where the horn under the hood is located?
I've looked EVERYWHERE and can't find it.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Someone who can read the electrical schematic should be able to find out which components the 10 Amps fuse connected to, and check out these components. The cables, adapters, run between the components and the fuse might short out somewhere. Is the BDM connected to tha 10 amp fuse?
If the defective part is inside the dashboard (I am doubt that) the repair will be expensive.
A defective BDM probably can create the symptoms that you describe, but I don' t think it blows the 10 amp fuse off and on.
We have also had the problem with the key getting stuck in the ignition and if you don't put the steering wheel in the lowest position, the key will not go to the off position or come out.
Our biggest problem right now is the annoying brake light, any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thank you!!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
We have also had the problem with the key getting stuck in the ignition and if you don't put the steering wheel in the lowest position, the key will not go to the off position or come out.
Our biggest problem right now is the annoying brake light, any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thank you!!
If I were you, I would purchase another key fob from the dealer, and let them figure out the problem. I think they charge $80 for the new key fob including the programing. If it works, asking them how they "program" it, and do it by yourself with the extra key. If they could not make it work, you can refuse the fix and the key fob. Or, pay them to fix the problems,
Just adjusted the wires so they were always putting pressure on the connector, and voila! No problems since.
Cheers, Mike
fuse box), and no auto parts store could get the diodes... I was happy to pay fifteen dollars and get several of each! I highly recommend this.
Cheers, Mike
1. filled system
2. opened drivers side bleed valve first and applied air pressure to radiator until a steady stream flowed from valve and closed while still flowing not to suck up air. And did the other valve the same way.
3. topped of radiator again and ran engine, right away the radiator would start burping out the fill hole. It does not seem to be flowing around, just burping. Filled and closed cap.
4. drove 15 minutes with heat on, which was hot at start then went cold when overheating started. 3/4 gage to alarm overheat in less then 1 minute after cold air started flowing from heater.
5. turned air conditioner on to make sure fans would be on high, but it did not help.
6. shifted to d3 with rpms over 2000 and no change.
The next thing that I will change is the water pump I guess, only $20
Then LIM lower intake manifold gasket, around $50 I think. This could be a lot of work, maybe more then the thermostat was. I won't go into that after three times, the second time I made a mistake and after 4 hours of work realized that I had put the old one back in again, old one meaning the second one which I modified by drilling a small hole in it so it could help release air. So pulled that one out and removed the guts of the stat and installed it with only the stat ring and seal to see if running without a stat would help. That was of no help.
Can someone give me a little good advice, other driving it into a lake. My email address is garygruich@sbcglobal.net :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
I always thought that having the filler rube in the wheel well was kind of strange and susceptible to problems. I don't now if the filler tube is a separate part or part of the fuel tank. Can anyone help me understand this, or if you have had the recall work done, explain what happened with you.
Thanks
I took it to an auto electric repair shop (it's all they do) and they diagnosed it as either the BCM or the ignition switch. A BCM (from a dealer) will cost $300 or more. The electric place charged me $120 to replace the switch. That was at 126,000 miles, it now has 202,000 miles on it, and no problems.
My second Aztek had the "flashing lights" syndrome. Engine runs fine, but the dash lights, radio and head/tail lights would flash and the dash would look like it does when you just started it. Replaced ignition switch (from Autozone). Cured the problem for 3 days, then had to replace with one from dealer. No problems so far.
Take it to a dealer or reputable repair facility and have them diagnose it. I would bet it's the switch.
I popped the passenger switch panel off and looked at the wires and switch itself. I pop the switch off, and replugged it in. The Window is now working just fine....but whenever I snap the cover back into place....the up switch stops working again....why? I make sure everything was secure before putting the cover back on....happens each time.....
just want to get the darn thing fixed!
Was it a good experience?