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Pontiac Aztek

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Comments

  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Assuming the battery really is still good the most common things would be bad cable connection (either positive or ground) or problem with charging system (alternater may have seen better days).
  • jettinagain1jettinagain1 Member Posts: 4
    i like so many others am having problems with dico lights, stalls, and have indeed replaced the altinator and the battery. i am now going to replace the bcm. i feel like this is a good gamble, and certainly cannot hurt. where in this world can i find one? everytime i google brightauto.com. (as i have seen here) i get something from china. no where can i ask about this part or even order it. i have been without my car for a week and it is driving me crazy. i need bcm ac delco part number 15235418. :confuse: :sick:
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Try googleing GM parts, you should find all kinds of places just have to sort through them
  • jettinagain1jettinagain1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks,the best place i found the BCM at is amazon.com. good luck to all us dedicated tekies. it is a real shame that we are more dedicated to this vehicle than the makers of the vehicle are.no excuse for all these problems!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • neopostmanneopostman Member Posts: 57
    See message no. 331. you can order BCM from AC Direct for $175.00. I haven't had time to get it installed yet but hope to do that soon. My problem is minor compared to some of the things I see on here so I'll let everyone know how it went as soon as I get it done.
  • neopostmanneopostman Member Posts: 57
    Thats how I got mine and got it fast as well.
  • rlm1313rlm1313 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 02 aztek with 62,000mi went to start it, turned key nothing happened, key stuck in ignition. replaced battery since the oe one was still in there. did not start but did get the key out but its still locked in park. when you check voltage of the connected battery it reads 6-7v disconnect and it reads 12v. this problem came out of nowhere. Any suggestions please.
  • amy72855amy72855 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 aztek and today the fan stop working is there any thing i can do be i have to pay some one to fix it plz let me know.... :confuse:
  • mdrfeelgoodemdrfeelgoode Member Posts: 4
    4 me i replaced the ignition and the steering shaft and then found it to b my bcm all together i spent 800 hund then turned around and the head blew the car has seen the shop more than me and i had just got it and i still owe 5000 these cars r crap
  • ellarellar Member Posts: 1
    Well I dont even know where to begin, and will pobably cry :cry: in the middle of this somewhere.....I bought a used 2003 ponic aztek in 2006, it had 32,000 miles on it. At 68,000 miles it needed a rebuilt transmission......also had to have a thermostat put in I paid $300 for a $10 part because they have to take the whole car apart. Now in 2009 at 97,000 miiles on it, this very morning it is in the shop. Let me add that for the past month and a half it has been running horrible. I start the car, it shakes and sputter, and stalls out, when you get in it and go it hesitates, you push the gas it takes a minute to get the car moving.....when it sits at the stoplight it pulses....and shakes and rattles...... I have had it in and out of repair shops, I have spent a total of $ 2,800 which doesnt includes todays bill. The problem, no one can seem to figure out......I have already replaced the O2 sensors, I have another new thermostat, new heads, new manifold, tune up.....I cant trade it in because I owe more then its worth....so now the auto shop that specializes in electrical says...."you need an new O2 sensor, and your fuel pressure idle is too high, and your injectors need cleaned......HOWEVER......it could be the computer, you might need a new brain for the car".......ARE YOU SERIOUS????? GOD HELP ME PLEASE!!!! How did I end up with this nightmare??? :sick: Why isnt GMAC held liable for making crap??? :mad: I dont qualify for lemon law :lemon: because the car is 6 years old......but I am making a payment on a vehicle that is a piece of junk...can anyone help me???
  • rlm1313rlm1313 Member Posts: 2
    ok with a lot of trial and error and testing connections i have it narrowed down to the ignition switch. any tips on how to replace it with the least amount of headaches.appreciate any suggestions
  • jettinagain1jettinagain1 Member Posts: 4
    ok i have done some research, fixed my bcm problem still have to take it (2001) to the dealer to get programed. but now that i have it torn apart, i would love to find the infamous leak. Mine leaks on both sides and yes when i pulled back the carpet it was really wet down there. so where is this leak i have read about and how do i fix it? any leak info, any fix info. i am willing to try them all till i get the right one. :shades:
  • jettinagain1jettinagain1 Member Posts: 4
    i will add this to anyone needing some advise on an engine surge problem. i had a problem with my car surging when i came to a stop light the rpm's would go up to about the 4500 range. i took it to a transmission guy, told him about a selinoid problem i had heard about, he dismissed me and told me it would be 1900.00 to replace my transmission. i took my car back had it towed to another transmission guy, told him about the selinoid, he had heard of this problem checked it out. bottom line with the tow and fixing my problem 162.00 no joke. this guy saved me 1700.00. if the other guy had put in the transmission it would not have fixed my problem because the selinoid is behind the gas pedal. heads up peeps do ur research. especially on older cars out of warranty.
  • ttmichttmich Member Posts: 7
    Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the Aztek. I have an 2002 Aztek with many problems, but nothing in comparing to yours. I have some suggestions for you:

    1) You might want to go to a different service garage because it seem your service garage is milking you. Take it to a Pontiac dealer for the repairs because they are very familiar with the problems of the Azteks. You can also take your Aztek to a Buick or other GM dealers because the Aztek, Rendezvous and many other GM vehicles use the same kind of engine. The dealers charge you more, but they can correct the problems.

    2) My Aztek's engine probably had a engine head cracked at 130,000 mile, a year after I had paid $900 for the defective of the intake manifold gasket. I decided to get a rebuild engine to eliminate the chronic engine problems and this costs me $3,000. I wanted the new parts for my new engine (betls, sensors, engine rubber blocks, wires, hoses, etc.) at an additional cost of $1,000. Total: $4,000.

    I hope I won't have to deal with the engine problems for awhile and I still think that was a well spent money.
  • mdrfeelgoodemdrfeelgoode Member Posts: 4
    naw my mechanics not milking me pontiac did he fixes everything for free because its his fault i bought this piece of crap lol ; (
  • fartblossomfartblossom Member Posts: 3
    O.K., The grinding/bumping noise is definately the abs kicking in. This problem just started on our 03. 6 months ago I had the hubs replaced for the traction warning lights coming on. The light doesn't come back on, but now the growling/pedal slip while braking and turning has started.

    I fixed it temporarily by pulling the ABS fuse. Sure enough, all problems gone. Unfortunately, the alarm bell never quits. Knowing that all GM bells/alarms are fed through the radio, I pulled the fuse for the radio too, now all is well. Of course, warning lights are still on and you don't get any warning when you leave your keys in the car.

    I plan on inspecting the harness next weekend.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    You didn't say where there water is, but I'll assume in the front. If you have a sunroof that is the first place I'd look, the drains may be plugged (there are 4 of them). Next thing I might wonder about is HVAC system ( I believe there is something for AC that drains that could be a problem), also check the condition of cabin air filters to see if they are wet. Windshield seal is also possible as when as a door seal (that would usually mean only one side wet)
  • ben69romeroben69romero Member Posts: 1
    The abs light,trac off,and the service traction system light keeps coming on.
    There is a very annoying beeping noise that comes on along with it.Can someone please tell me what to do to stop this madness.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Yes, get it fixed ;) . This is usually an issue with speed sensor on wheel/hub assembly. You may have to take it to a gm dealer for scan to determine exactly which wheel it is complaining about. The first 'fix' that will be suggested is replaceing the hub assembly,,,,,,,,,but,,,,,, many times it is an issue with the connection(s) to the sensor, loose/corroded wiring.
  • buster51buster51 Member Posts: 16
    I just discovered this sight because I am having the same issues with my 2001. i have owned this car since new and this is the first major puzzling problem I have had other than the gas gauge since I bought it. I have 145,000 miles on it. It sounds to me that there is no clear answer to this problem. Money is tight so where would yoy all reccomend starting out? I took it to a shop and they told me it was because my rotors were warped so they turned the rotors and the problem is still there. They talked about it being some control module that runs $1000 just for the part.
    Thanks
    Mike
  • 34chevy34chevy Member Posts: 1
    my Aztek is FWD with 90K; therefore problem was limited to the drive wheels. Drivers side ABS sensor wire was broken at junction of larger harness likely a fatigue failure. $.35 worth wire connectors, electrical tape have corrected the problem. Just for the record I replaced wheel bearings at 61,000 because of noise that my wife could hear. Hope this helps someone before spending big bucks at dealership.
  • tabitha1tabitha1 Member Posts: 1
    Having same problem. Did the thermistat didnt work. Now it is going back to the shop to check out more possibilities. Did you ever find out the problem?
  • buster51buster51 Member Posts: 16
    Thank you for your input. A freind and I tore the harness apart near the ABS box but could not see any damaged wire. Was yours pretty obvious. The next step is to get a code reader and check the warning code. Probably will repace sensors next. Any other thoughts by anyone.

    Thanks Mike
  • corrie2corrie2 Member Posts: 2
    We bought a 2001 Aztez and the engine fans are not comming on and as a result the engine almost overheats. We have replaced the fuses and the mini relays and still nothing is fixed. We do not know where the thermostat is (that is our next guess) and would really like some help.
  • gary_successgary_success Member Posts: 5
    There is a sensor near the=A0thermostat, you might want to replace that bef=
    ore trying to change the thermostat. Also you may want to recheck to make s=
    ure the fuses are in the correct slots. One for low fan and one for High fa=
    n, it is real easy to have them in the wrong locations. Thermostat is under=
    the air mixer, or what ever it is called. And it is a real pain to get to.=
    1 remove everything that is in the way 2 make any special tools which will=
    help 3 say your prayers. I changed mine 3 times, the second time I=A0reali=
    zed that I had put the old one back in instead of the new one so had to sta=
    rt all over again. The first time I changed it it tool 6 1/2 hours, second =
    time 4 hours and the last time 3 hours. There is a small trick for getting =
    the rear bolt back in. Cut a 3/4 x 10 inch chunk out of a plastic bottle an=
    d drill a hole at one end and slide it over the bolt to hold it in place wh=
    ich you make small=A0partial=A0turns with a open end wrench. A socket
    will fit on the front bolt because there is room, and use a long extension=
    to reach you ratchet at the wheel well. The extension will pass through ev=
    erything. You will also need to remove the nut for the pass over line which=
    is on the air intake thing. Good Luck, it can be done. Nothing worked for =
    my car and dexhell finally killed it. My mistake by mixing the green stuff,=
    then tap water, then having it flushed with new dexhell added, still overh=
    eated and then added bottle water again and then tap water. My first mistak=
    e which may have caused the whole problem was when I added the green coolan=
    t. I miss my Tek
  • corrie2corrie2 Member Posts: 2
    What is A0thermostat?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The "A0" is not supposed to be there. It's an artifact of the word processor he's using. He's just referring to the thermostat.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gary_successgary_success Member Posts: 5
    Ignore the AO and the = signs, something strange happened when I used cut and paste and that stuff just appeared. Sorry that I did not catch it before sending it. When I received an email with your question in my regular email box I thought that I could just reply through the email, but it was returned so I copied and pasted it to this site instead and did not notice what had happened to the text. I think you can figure out what it says though, good luck.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    If it only does this while sitting in stopped/very slow moving traffic while idleing, it may very well be normal (getting close to red line). It has to be very very close to red before fans turn on and is operating as designed (even though its scary to see)
  • RebasunshineRebasunshine Member Posts: 12
    I was told the same thing "the fans dont kick on until a high temp" like I said we changed EVERYTHING thermostat included. Ended up being a head gasket... seems to be a common problem with all > :lemon:
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    There is a fine line between almost overheating and overheating. I'm fairly certain there has been a number of times people have had the intake manifold gaskets leak, didn't realize it, and had subsequent coolant loss that created overheating and head gasket failures.
  • cpotter1004cpotter1004 Member Posts: 1
    I have read everyones postings. I see that this is a common problem with the Aztek. I have done one flush and a thermostat change. The car is still "overheating" the car shop wants to charge me $50 to do a pressure test to tell me what is wrong. I am tired of putting money into this vehicle. I need some advice on what to do (besides blowing it up)! Any advice Cpotter1004@yahoo.com
  • veltboy618veltboy618 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with the ABS light on & the all wheel drive being disabled. Is there a way to figure out which wheel bearing/sensor it is that has gone bad with out going through each of them until the light goes off?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    unfirtunately I think the only way to tell whicg one the system is complaining about
    is a dealers computer.
  • 65626562 Member Posts: 1
  • pastfrustratedpastfrustrated Member Posts: 9
    We have an '04 Aztek and last year the key got stuck in the ignition - didn't know what to do - went through 2 batteries because of it. Went to a dealer and they said it was most likely the "park pawl actuator". We got a diagram printout from them and my husband removed it from the steering column, the key came out and we haven't had a problem with that issue since. Hope this helps.
  • ramex2ramex2 Member Posts: 9
    01 Aztek AWD back section of drive shaft has bad bearings . Currently vehicle is in a mechanic's shop . Cannot locate source for the bearings. The dealer will only sell us a complete drive shaft with bearings $1350.00 . One bearing the larger of the 2 bearings has # 60100, the smaller bearing is all chewed up. Cannot make out #'s . Dealer will not sell the bearings alone and is not willing to even give us the number of the smaller bearing . The race that the bearings sit in is intact . ANYONE out there know where I can purchase the bearings ?? My mechanic has tried all his regular sources.> I have tried all the junk yards in the Chicagoland area & few out of state . Unfortunately I cannot locate a wrecked Aztek to get bearings . Going to a bearing company next . They say that they GM numbers mean nothing to them So I am taking the race and the 2 bearing with me to show them . My next plan is to have the bearings made in Mexico & shipped to Chicago . However I do not have spec & tolerances . ANY INPUT would be greatly appreciated
  • clouseclouse Member Posts: 5
    Try the wrecking yards in Michigan - on-line- for any and all destroyed Azteks. The cost of a drive shaft even with a trip to get the parts would be much cheaper than buying them. Your mechanic should have some addresses that you can contact out of state. Northern Indiana around Gary seems to have quite a few Azteks in that area.
  • ramex2ramex2 Member Posts: 9
    Well I checked 6 different junk yards in the Gary IN area Nada. Those Aztek drivers just don't seem to be crashing . BUT Michigan has 1 drive shaft $500.00 much better than the GM price of $1500.00 new My mechanic is only charging me $150.00 to the labor so all in all $ 650.00 total . Should arrive in 2 days The Buick Rendezvou
    which is essentially the same car and has the exact same drive shaft except however OUR GOOD FRIENDS at GM made sure that the location where it attaches to the frame is just off by 5 inches to ensure that you have to have an AZTEK drive shaft . THANX GM you S.O.B.'s
    But hey I still love my Aztek
  • mandy72980mandy72980 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 03 aztek. I tried to stop at a major intersection this morning and almost went through it. My AWD and abs light has been coming on, especially during times of lots of rain. I called my uncle who runs the pontiac garage in town and he said it sounds like the wheel sensor which is 3-400 just for the part. I am definately going to mention the wiring harness to him before I pay to have the sensor fixed just to be sure. I live in Maine where we have a lot of issues with corrosion due to extreme salt and wet weather so it would make sense. I just hope this is the issue and not the sensor itself. Christmas is a couple weeks away and I don't have the extra money. I still love my aztek though. :(
  • buster51buster51 Member Posts: 16
    I went trough the wiring harness near the brake module at the top of the motor. There is a picture in one of the other postings. We unwrapped the cover off the wires and looked for damaged wires.We pulled the air filter unit out to follow the wires down to the next junction with some more wires. Everything looked fine except for the harness was being pinched a bit in one spot. We wrapped everything up again and have not had the problem in the last couple of weeks since we did this.

    I do have a new problem now though. The instument lights and all the dome lights don't work anymore. I pulled the fuse from the inside fuse box and it was blown. When I put a new one in it blows as I am inserting it. Now have to figure out where the short could be.

    Anyone have any ideas.
    Thanks
    Mike
  • buster51buster51 Member Posts: 16
    The picture is in message 52.
    Mike
  • vschizz222vschizz222 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 Aztek and could really use that information too.. I am having the same BCM problems and a new problem where my car shows no temperature on the guage and the fan will run after the car is shut off. I replaced the temp. sensor and thermostat, but that was not it.... anybody??? :surprise:
  • mbenembene Member Posts: 3
    I have an '04 Aztek with 86000 miles on it, has been in FL all it's life and I just started having the problem with the ABS kicking in at slow speeds on dry pavement and the ABS light coming on. There are no grinding noises, just the quick pulsing of the ABS. Is this what people are referring to when they say grinding? One thing for sure, I will not replace the hubs yet because it seems that this is not the problem. Does the broken wire seem to be in mostly the same place or is it all over? I will try to check out the wiring this weekend. Any suggestions on where to look would be appreciated. Thanks
  • buster51buster51 Member Posts: 16
    Check the picture in message 52. Follow the harness down under the air filter. You will have to unwrap it and re wrap it.Mine seemed to be just a pinched wire so far. And yes the quick pulsing is the same problem I had. good luck.
    Mike
  • mbenembene Member Posts: 3
    Until I find the problem, it seems that I should just be able to disconect one of the sensors and that will disable the ABS and the brakes should act like any other vehicle without ABS, because the biggest problem I have now is the ABS activating when it is not needed.
  • buster51buster51 Member Posts: 16
    I don't know if that will work or not. i saw another posting where someone else pulled the fuse for the ABS.
  • jbgheen7jbgheen7 Member Posts: 1
    did you happen to find out what its was? did you get the fan to stop running after it is turned on? mine is doing the same thing and i dont want to replace the thermostat if that wont do anything. my thermostat gauges does not register...stays on cold all all the time. but the heater is working fine and the coolant level is good. just when turn off the car, the fan continues to runs for a while. even if i just drive down my street. so i am sure it is running the entire time the car is on. i have noticed that i am getting a lot worse gas mileage, but that seems to be the only affect right now. please help
  • TexasRaiderTexasRaider Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I talked to my mechanic and he said at times when the weather changes, the thermostat is not functioning exactly correctly, and the computer misinterprets it as the engine overheating. It therefore goes into a 'protection' mode, turning on both fans, even after the car is off for a while. I confirmed this because after just a little while I can use an Autozone code reader to read and erase the codes (usually says not enough coolant, temp.sensor malfunction, etc) and as soon as I turn the car on it fine, no service engine light, fans are normal. To check it, just disconnect the postive lead on your battery for about 10 minutes, reconnect, start and drive. If all is OK, then the codes were false. My mechanic told me it was either a faulty temp. sensor or the thermostat...put in a fresh sensor, did it again, so it's the thermostat I'm pretty sure. Let me know if that works!
  • mbenembene Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever get this problem solved? I am going through the same thing with the ABS on my Aztek now. I don't have traction control, just the ABS problem and I don't want to spend money on sensors if it isn't going to take care of this.
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