I have a 2003 Aztek and we just purchased a new air cond knob because the old one was stripped out and cracked. This is my wife's car and she said the air would work off and on. Sometimes stuck on high, sometimes stuck off. So I thought it needed a new knob. Got the new one and now the air doesn't work at all. It sounds as though compressor engages, but no blower on air or heat.(Maybe blower motor?) I've gotten all kinds of advice and prices on different things. Not sure where to start first, but after reading some of these, I think I'll start with the fuses #13 & #28. After that I'll try the sensor..Let you all know.....If anyone has any other advice, let me know.
These postings helped me track down the problem with my Buick Rendezvous, so I wanted to share in hopes it will help some of the others. First symptom was antilock brakes activating when turning right. Resolved by replacing right front wheel hub with the embedded sensor (a common issue with the Azteks and Rendezvous). Second issue was intermittent activation of the antilock brakes during soft braking with no warning lights, sometimes when going over a bump the AWD would deactivate and the antilock brake light would come one. Kept the car running and took it to the mechanic to scan the error message. Tracked problem to wiring from right front sensor to the box, replaced wiring and resolved issue.
I went to Auto Zone and tried getting the price of the BCM and they do not carry them, so they continued with giving me prices on the Blower Motor and it was 200.00 I am at wits end on my Aztec, I was not planning on things like this tearing up b/c I am like all in a budget! And my poor hubby is driving it in this wonderful 100 degree heat so I can drive his and so I don't go without A/C. I hope I can get mine fixed and everyone else on here who is having this same issue can as well
I am having a problem with my 2001. I was getting a check engine light that it was running to cold. i was told the thermostat was stuck open. I drove it like this for 6 months since I was told it would not hurt anything. This last weekend it started running hotter than normal especially under a climb. We had to run the heater to keep the temp down. It got up to the dot under the line before it goes red. I took it to the dealer and they changed the thermostat and purged and refilled the cooling system. I got it back and it was fine till it was put under a load again because we e were in the foothills at 3500 feet. I took it back and they ran all kinds of tests. they said the fans were kicking in correctly, and they did a dye pressure test to see if it was a leak in the block or the head gasket but everything checked out fine. They found an air pocket in the system so they repurged it and re bled the system and said everything looked good. Now we can run it fine with the air conditioner on and it stays right at the half way mark until I begin to climb elevation again. The needle then goes up to just below the red line. It has never boiled over or anything. As soon as I level out and go downgrade the temp drops back down to normal. i was told not to worry about it as long as it stays under the red. I personally think this is too hot. One last thing is when the temp was fairly high I checked and only one fan was running. It would stop and then no fan was running and then it would run again. I was told that one fan is for cooling and the other is for the air conditioning. Yet they say the fans are running the way they are supposed too. They told me the 2nd speed on the fan will not kick in until it reaches 220. Any Ideas? Mike
So what ended up happening? Right now my car is doing the same thing... i was stuck after I got an oil change (although I dont think it had anything to do with the oil change). My car has power, but wasn't even attempting to start. Security, Traction Off (or a variance of that) and low fuel kept appearing and then none of my gauges except for speedometer would work - the place I brought it to is frustrated - anyone??
This is a update concerning my previous post #77 where I listed my mom's car as a 2002 when it is a 2003. The battery is a year old and has been load tested and it is OK. The cable connections are clean and tight. Installed a new BCM today and same problem. This car also has a remote start and unplugged it (per the installers directions) to no avail. Cleaned the body connector below the drivers seat underneath the car (which was dirty) but still no good. No dampness in the car. Car does not have traction control or ABS brakes installed and came that way from the factory. ..... The key will not turn all the way to off without using the access hole underneath the steering wheel and you cannot move the shifter from park unless you override it by pulling on the little white button on the shifter. When you turn the key on the message center brings a varity of messages up and the gas gage reads E when there is a full tank of gas, when you turn it farther to start the dash lights go out while your holding to start but come back on when relaxing the key. The motor doesn't even try to turn over. The fuses have been checked and they are OK. Someone mentioned the PCM but did not say where it is located. The car only has 83000 miles on it. My Dad is loosing his hair trying to fix it. After reading all the posts on here he was exited to change the BCM ( with the help of the excellent guide on this website) but he is crying now because it didn't change a thing except now the radio is locked . Don't know what to do now. Should the starter engage if you short out the 2 terminals on the solonoid?
For my 2002 aztec i was having a problem where the key wouldnt come out of the iginition so it would drain the battery and i would have to jump start it every morning so i did some research on here and i came across a blog about fuses in the shifter console being corroded. So i brought it to the garage and loo and behold they were corroded. It was only like a 14 dollar part but with labor and such it ended up being a 200 dollar job. Not sure if it helps but its a start .. good luck!!
Help my Aztec has been acting up all summer. At first it was just once and awhile now it doesn't want to run at all. It looses power and skips you mash the gas and it just wont run. it has been at dealership for a month. No service engine light coming on. Have put 2 fuel pumps on it and the computer has been replaced. An oxygen sensor has been replaced. If you get it on the highway the fastest it will run is about 2o miles an hour. It stalls and battery light flickers on and off while its doing this.
Have they checked all connections from battery to ground and to the starter motor and also the no power thing makes me think the catalytic converter is clogged up. Hold your hand over or near the end of the exhaust pipe with the engine running and see if you feel anything coming out of the pipe. Be careful, it will get hot fast if the engine has been running very long. I have two of these cars and have been successful at keeping them both running so far.
I have a 2004 Pontiac Aztek. It has gremlins. I admit I didn't look through EVERY post in this thread, but I did see many that were similar. I love my Aztek. Even with this "quirk", which I have begun to lovingly refer to as "Butt Starting" my car...I still love it. However, honestly, without the aid of a few or one rather large friend with me these days, it is becoming impossible to just run simple errands.
While my best friend can just sit in the driver's seat and rock to start it (he weighs about 240lbs), I have to either wait or find others to help me if I'm alone (I'm about 110lbs).
This has been ongoing for a while, but seems to be getting worse. The main symptom is this:
The car doesn't start. BUT, there are many factors to why/when/how this occurs.
If I get in my car after it has been parked for a while, there is usually not a problem getting it to start. Though, on occasion, this doesn't make a difference.
If I get in and drive it 5 miles or 500 miles, when I park the car if it does not "auto" unlock, I will be unable to start the car normally for about 20 - 30 minutes.
At this point, I can either turn the steering wheel and attempt to find the "sweet spot" which will engage the ignition OR I can get a passenger to go to the rear of the car and "rock" it until it turns over.
Once it has started, it is likely it will not immediately move out of park. Again, I have to turn the steering wheel while pressing the button on the gear shift.
It has gotten to the point that if I just need to run into the store to grab something quickly, I will remove the key fob from the key, leave the car running and lock it while I run in. Otherwise, I am going to have to play with the car for a while to get it to start.
I have replaced the battery, with no change. The symptoms, as I said, do seem to be getting worse and it is more likely than not now that I will have to "rock" start the car and play with the steering wheel to get the car out of park.
The lock isn't really the issue. The car locks and unlocks just fine both manually and electronically.
The "auto unlock" feature when putting the car in park is just an indicator of whether or not the car is going to start again without requiring special treatment.
Before all the trouble started, the normal events when I placed the car in park was that the doors would automatically unlock. Now, if they do not do that, I know that I will either have to dance a jig :P or wait 30 minutes - 1 hour before I can start it normally again.
The catalytic converter was bad had a broken piece on it. Got my truck back and it drove fine until the next morning then it began to do the same thing not as bad though. It is still losing power and cutting out. Seems like when it warms up it does better. Someone please help I don't know what to do.
Is the new catalytic converter the correct one or is it universal type? Is the service engine light on? If so you can go to most any car parts store and they will read the code for you then let me know what it is. Maybe then I will be able to tell you more.
No the service engine light is not on. A few months ago it came on I took it to a place and they hooked it up it stated number 1 cylinder not firing but it was running good. So they reset it and the next time it came on it was an oxygen sensor. We replace it Now nothing is coming on. Tried to drive it this morning and couldn't go no where with it. It is popping backfiring and cutting out Please help
Hi Everyone... Am new to this site.. Worked on a friend's 2004 Aztek yesterday in Hobbs, NM. It has the classic key problem, where you can't remove the key and it won't move back to "OFF" position, leaving battery on.. Key switch was replaced yesterday, but that was not the problem.. In troubleshooting, I found when it fails, the small black reset button below, clears the pin, inside the ignition metal case, and one can remove the key and shut off the car. :confuse:
MY QUESTION is: this button clears a small black solenoid or sensor, by pulling the pin out, allowing the key switch to turn. Does anyone know what function this solenoid or sensor does. There is 2 wires coming into the botton of it.. If it is a solenoid, then there is a wiring problem and it doesn't release the pin, OR it senses the position of the pin... Suspect it is a small solenoid..
I can set this pin up to be released at all time, with a small piece of foam, under the reset pin, but really want to know what this does, and why...
There appears to be NO Haynes or Chilton manuals printed for this car. And I have no access to any factory manuals yet.
Would appreciate any assistance with info on this problem..
Intro: My dad was a Chevy-Olds mechanic for 35 years who taught me, much of what I know, in rebuilding engines and all. Computer and electronics, I have picked up myself. Am an Alliance Member of the HAMB network...(trad. hot rods).
Assuming there is no situation involving battery (which can also lead to getting key stuck), I think the other part you are talking about is Connected to the Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (another part the can have issues with frayed wires or bad connections).
Check the plug wire for the number 1 plug. You may want to check coil where the number 1 plug wire goes. Coils do go bad. Misfires are what destroyed your catalytic converter. You said you replaced the oxygen sensor, was it the one on the engine or the one after the catalytic converter? Let me know.
Just happen to think you may have a bad fuel pump. Try turning the key on but not so far that it tries to start and listen for the fuel pump to come on. If you cant hear the pump start and run for a few seconds, it could be bad or the fuse may be blown. If it will start but is not driveable, the fuel pressure may be to low to run the engine.
It appears from an online manual that the solenoid device that I am referring to is the Parking Pawl located behind the lockset. It has an electrical connection to it so it probably is turned on and applied to release the pin from inside so the key switch can turn off.. Now I need to find out what activates this Parking Pawl.. Does it get power from a sensor somewhere, and at what time it is activated.. :sick: Thanks, duane
Hello I'm having the same problem programming my 02 Aztek remote that you seem to have had. I see where you put that you have to hold in the odometer/trip reset button for 2 secs to go into programming mode. When is it that you press it or what are the steps you did to program your remote? Thank You.
Thanks neopostman. This is the response I got from the company that was reccomended in a earlier post. Also 1 dealer quoted me $40 each and another one quoted $37 each. The company below charges about $22. Big difference.
Hi Mike, All four doors use the part numbers supplied and one of each part number is needed per door being repaired.
What would cause: car to die, not be able to open doors from inside with and without fob, key stuck in ignition in "on position." I have no clue. Thanks for any help!
Will the car start and run or is it completely dead? Could be a dead battery, bad key switch or maybe the BCM is bad, part number for that is 15235418. Mike
VEHICLE DASH GOES CRAZY SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT AND CHANGE OIL LIGHT WILL NOT GO OFF. MANY DIAGNOSTIC TESTS NO POPPED CODE NOR BAD FUSES. NOW SECURITY WARNING AND ANTI THEFT TURNS ON MY VEHICLED GOES ON LOCK DOWN NO AC, WINDOWS AND DOORS LOCK DOWN I CAN NOT GET OUT. THIS HAS HAPPENED TWO TIMES. ALSO NEWEST THING IS MY VEHICLE SHUT OF IN MID DRIVE, GOOD THING I WAS IN MY DRIVEWAY OTHERWISE IT COULD HAVE BEEN VERY BAD ACCIDENT. THIS IS A ON AND OFF THING NO WARNING. NOW THREE TIME INCNDENT, BUT 1ST FOR VEHICLE SHUT OFF ENGINE
Hey-- I had this EXACT same issue in April. I replaced teh BCM ((Body Control Modual)) and it fixed everything. However, in July I got into my car for work one morning, turned the key and NOTHING happened... literally... NOTHING! Lights work, windows roll down... battery seems fine... but no clicking or anything. Not sure WHAT the issue is this time. My car has been sitting now for TWO months as I am afraid to find out WHAT is wrong and how MUCH it is going to cost...
I have the same issue-- replaced the Body Control Modual in April and it fixed the problem... but then in July I went to go to work one day and the car will not start AT ALL! no "rocking" or "sitting" or anything!!! So,, if you figure out what could be up-- let me know too please!
I am afraid to have it towed somewhere b/c I really do not have a lot of $$ to dump into this damn thing anymore.
I have a 2003 and i noticed the other day that the key was getting hot and the steering column is heating up. has anyone else noticed this.. also the car is having a issue with just dying out. I start driving and in I can go for a little bit and the engine just stops so i turn the key off and wait a few minutes and then it will start up then i drive a little more and have to repeat.. any suggestions.. thank you Rich
I have an Aztek 2003, I have a problem starting the engine when it is hot. When you try to start the engine it sounds like you ran out of gas, if you let the engine cool off for sometime it starts again.. what seems to be the problem?
Hi Ray80.. I ended up setting the black pin to highest position and locking it in place... This is one behind the steering wheel. No current coming up from console area to pull the pin back with the solenoid. This car is 200 miles away and I can't work on it forever, out in a parking lot. Also placed a block under the push pin so it is in place for good... Works fine now for owner. Sometimes, one has to bypass some crap, in order to get it working.. Have several bypasses in my '85 Nissan 720 series pickup and have added another 200,000 miles since.. PS..Anyone wish to discuss this procedure with me, email back...Thanks, duane in Fort Sumner, NM
On occasion mine won't start if shutoff ONLY 5 mins or so (Like when you fill up on fuel, go in and pay and come right back out to start). If this sounds like your problem I don't have a good answer other then to keep it cranking quite a bit longer then usual without letting go of key, it should start then. It seems to be worse in my case if I try to start it multiple times as opposed to having it fail once and then second time crank longer.
My sister owns a 2001 Aztec, she drove it to work and when she went to leave the Aztec would not start. Battery was bad so we replaced it and it still won't start. No electric at all? What can be the problem on why now all of a sudden it won't start? Need help badly.
I would suspect a cable connection problem. One thing that can happen when connections are made is the plastic on the end of the cable can become pinched between mounting surface of battery and cable.
I have the save problem with my 01 Aztek GT AWD, abs alway stop, chage all my bearing, and problem come back like a week after, now GM say I need to change all my wires + connector =1000$ CA job) I need that awd 2 for the winter, it really piss me off
I have an anoying noize under the car, I bring the car to the dealer and he tell me I need to change the rear part of the driving shaft ( 2000$ CA) or a use one at 800$, so I bring the shatf to a specialiste and he tell me it impossible to rebuilt cause he cant find the bearing... is someone get the same problem and how you fix it?
I think the clunk it the part who retain the shaft to the transmission (front part) u can get it fix by an driveshaft specialist. It what I do with mine... the only thing you cant change It the middle bearing... that a big prob on my aztek now...
I took my 2001 aztek down and they said the right wheel sensor was bad. I replace and the antilock still activates the light comes on and at different times the track control goes off and the service track system light comes on. Also I have noticed at a slow roll I can here a low rumble sound and then it will stop. I have cleaned and ck all the wires and the connections. this is on an 2001 front wheel drive aztek.
I have a similar problem ( to Message #316 starting issues by BarbaraMeints Jun 07, 2009 ) with my 2002 Pontia Aztec (with about 50000 km on it) ... electrical problems related to opening the passenger side front door. Basically, when the engine is ON and I open the passenger side front door, most of the electrical components inside the cabin stop working (dash lights, radio, etc) and the overhead lights inside the cabin flash about once per second. When the engine is OFF and I open the passenger side front door, the overhead lights inside the cabin flash about once per second. With the passenger side front door open, I can turn the problem on and off simply by actuating the door latch ... so it is at least related somehow to the door latch.
If you or anyone else has any insight into this problem, please let me know.
Bubba_Man
Keywords: 2002 Pontiac Aztek, 2002 Pontiac Aztec, Electrical Problem, passenger side front door, passenger's side front door, door latch.
Hi. I have been having alot of same problems with my Pontiac Aztek and wanted to know if you've found out how to fix the problems like the Brake light coming on and continuously ringing. and the other problems you had in you column.
Comments
Any Ideas?
Mike
While my best friend can just sit in the driver's seat and rock to start it (he weighs about 240lbs), I have to either wait or find others to help me if I'm alone (I'm about 110lbs).
This has been ongoing for a while, but seems to be getting worse. The main symptom is this:
The car doesn't start. BUT, there are many factors to why/when/how this occurs.
If I get in my car after it has been parked for a while, there is usually not a problem getting it to start. Though, on occasion, this doesn't make a difference.
If I get in and drive it 5 miles or 500 miles, when I park the car if it does not "auto" unlock, I will be unable to start the car normally for about 20 - 30 minutes.
At this point, I can either turn the steering wheel and attempt to find the "sweet spot" which will engage the ignition OR I can get a passenger to go to the rear of the car and "rock" it until it turns over.
Once it has started, it is likely it will not immediately move out of park. Again, I have to turn the steering wheel while pressing the button on the gear shift.
It has gotten to the point that if I just need to run into the store to grab something quickly, I will remove the key fob from the key, leave the car running and lock it while I run in. Otherwise, I am going to have to play with the car for a while to get it to start.
I have replaced the battery, with no change. The symptoms, as I said, do seem to be getting worse and it is more likely than not now that I will have to "rock" start the car and play with the steering wheel to get the car out of park.
Any ideas?
The "auto unlock" feature when putting the car in park is just an indicator of whether or not the car is going to start again without requiring special treatment.
Before all the trouble started, the normal events when I placed the car in park was that the doors would automatically unlock. Now, if they do not do that, I know that I will either have to dance a jig :P or wait 30 minutes - 1 hour before I can start it normally again.
MY QUESTION is: this button clears a small black solenoid or sensor, by pulling the pin out, allowing the key switch to turn. Does anyone know what function this solenoid or sensor does. There is 2 wires coming into the botton of it.. If it is a solenoid, then there is a wiring problem and it doesn't release the pin, OR it senses the position of the pin... Suspect it is a small solenoid..
I can set this pin up to be released at all time, with a small piece of foam, under the reset pin, but really want to know what this does, and why...
There appears to be NO Haynes or Chilton manuals printed for this car. And I have no access to any factory manuals yet.
Would appreciate any assistance with info on this problem..
Intro: My dad was a Chevy-Olds mechanic for 35 years who taught me, much of what I know, in rebuilding engines and all. Computer and electronics, I have picked up myself. Am an Alliance Member of the HAMB network...(trad. hot rods).
Thanks in advance..Duane Koss / Fort Sumner, NM
Thanks Mike
Hi Mike,
All four doors use the part numbers supplied and one of each part number is needed per door being repaired.
Thank you,
F Norton
GmPartsDirect.com
I am afraid to have it towed somewhere b/c I really do not have a lot of $$ to dump into this damn thing anymore.
thank you
Rich
I ended up setting the black pin to highest position and locking it in place... This is one behind the steering wheel. No current coming up from console area to pull the pin back with the solenoid. This car is 200 miles away and I can't work on it forever, out in a parking lot. Also placed a block under the push pin so it is in place for good... Works fine now for owner. Sometimes, one has to bypass some crap, in order to get it working.. Have several bypasses in my '85 Nissan 720 series pickup and have added another 200,000 miles since..
Let's discuss it right here so everyone will benefit. Taking it to email tends to defeat the purpose of a Forum.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I have a similar problem ( to Message #316 starting issues by BarbaraMeints Jun 07, 2009 ) with my 2002 Pontia Aztec (with about 50000 km on it) ... electrical problems related to opening the passenger side front door. Basically, when the engine is ON and I open the passenger side front door, most of the electrical components inside the cabin stop working (dash lights, radio, etc) and the overhead lights inside the cabin flash about once per second. When the engine is OFF and I open the passenger side front door, the overhead lights inside the cabin flash about once per second. With the passenger side front door open, I can turn the problem on and off simply by actuating the door latch ... so it is at least related somehow to the door latch.
If you or anyone else has any insight into this problem, please let me know.
Bubba_Man
Keywords: 2002 Pontiac Aztek, 2002 Pontiac Aztec, Electrical Problem, passenger side front door, passenger's side front door, door latch.