Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Are you using an independent shop or a GM dealership?
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
I noticed some fuel pump msgs but my '04 AWD Aztec has a strange problem. On a very hot (95) day, I took the vehicle for a wheel balance. Afer balancing, the tech pulled out of the garage and parked the Aztec while I paid by bill. I got into the Aztec turned the ignition to start, it fired up but immediately died. Any further cranking did not do so much as a sputter. I went inside and said what did you do to this thing, it won't start. Their mechanic checked and said it was getting spark but no fuel and said the fuel pump was the problem. After quoting me the price($$$$) they started to drive me home. About 10 min. later the driver gets a call and tells me we're heading back to the shop, the car started. When we get back the mechanic said they pushed in into the bay and he decided to try and start it one more time before he started tearning down the fuel tank and it started several times in a row. We took it for a test ride and it was problem-free. That was 2 months ago and I have not had a problem since. But I can't trust that it won't happen again. Do I pop for a new fuel pump? Thank you.
•Traction Control System
•6-way adjustable driver's seat with power height adjustments and more
•Sliding rear cargo tray
•Cruise control
•Remote keyless entry
•Roof rack system
•AM/FM stereo with RDS, compact disc player, auto reverse cassette, rear audio controls, and Pioneer premium 10-speaker system
Heads up display
There should be a sticker on one of the removable panels in back that includes all the RPO codes, you could google based on that and see what else might be included.
It started up, I put it in reverse, then it died. No amount of cranking would make it fire, there was no fuel getting to the engine. Why it started about 15-20 min later and keeps running fine is a mystery. No check engine light came on.
Do these issues sound like a bad BCM?
Symptoms in order they happened:
1. Replaced head light and after that car started beeping like the door was open and would not stop. Had to unplug the battery and let sit for 10-15 minutes then it would stop
2. Beeping continued for a while intermittently. Would turn car off and the beeping would start and not stop until I unhooked batter.
3. Every so often the security warning would come up and the radio would not work, would also have to unhook battery to resolve.
4. Check Engine Light came on and stayed on a piece of electric take resolved this
5. Windows started acting up. They decided when they would allow me to roll them down or up. Sometimes they would work perfect, others some would go up and others would stay down or vice versa
6. Driver window stopped responding all together. After replacing the battery one time the windows all worked perfect until I turned the car off and back on, then the same issues occurred.
7. AC/HEAT stopped blowing on levels 2,4,5
8. AC/Heat stopped blowing on 1,3 .was able to get 3 working again temporarily by pulling the BCM fuse but it stopped again after turning the car off and pulling the fuse has not worked since.
9. Key get stuck in ignition .it turns back but not all the way off. I have to stick a pen under the steering column in a little whole. This allows me to turn the key the rest the way and remove. This happens every time you turn the car off.
***edit*** - AC and heat are still hot and cold. When on the express way it will pull in some outside air and blow ever so lightly and you can feel the that it is hot when on heat and cold when on ac.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read my post and for any comments/suggestions you may have.
Mike
Do you have a sunroof that may be leaking and letting water track where it doesn't belong?
When you pulled BCM fuse, was it #28 in underhood fuse box and did you leave it out for a bit (30 sec or so)?
A bad cable connection could cause troubles also I might check to ensure the plastic ring on cable where it connects to battery is pinched between cable and battery, and while your under the hood check to ensure the fat cable that goes from battery to underhood fuse box has a good connection (not loose or corroded).
I would even be happy if it is the BCM, i'm just scared to replace it and it not resolve anything.
Thank you for the reply, I will look at the connections and cables and hopefully if that is it my untrained eye can spot it.
The key is locked in the ignition. All the wires under at the shifter are ok, fuses are ok, and we tried wiggling the wheel and rocking the car. The key realease button does not release the key. We took the column apart and cannot find any other reason except that either the tumblers are jammed or the elctromagnetic key release is broken. Today is Sunday and have to wait until tomorrow to speak to a dealer about this and parts. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
This is my 1st time on here and what prompted me to look is my heater stopped working in my 2001 Aztek this morning. #1-4 have not been working for a couple years so I have only been to run it on high. When I read your post I couldnt beleive that you are having or have had alot of the same probems I am with my Aztek.
* Every so often the security warning would come up, Check Engine Light came on and stays on, Windows started acting up. They decided when they would allow me to roll them down or up. Sometimes they would work perfect, others some would go up and others would stay down or vice versa, Driver window stopped responding all together, AC/Heat stopped blowing 1-4, now 5 is gone too, key get stuck in ignition .it turns back but not all the way off. I have to stick a pen under the steering column in a little whole (be careful not to break the little thing in the whole, this happened to me and had to take the whole bottom part of the steering column off to get to the lever I have to push forward to get my key out now).
I love my Aztek but think I might have to look for another vehicle too. I just had to replace the water pump. Just thought I would share that I am having the same problems. If you have any suggestions for checking on the AC/Heat thing I would greatly appreciate it.
Mel
Later that day, I discovered that my DIC was no longer functioning (it is completely black). Shortly afterwards, I discovered that the key fob no longer works either.
The most frustrating part is that either because of this or because I am doing something wrong, I cannot get into my car without setting off the alarm. Manually unlocking the driver side door does not disable the alarm.
Any thoughts as to what might be wrong and how I might go about fixing it?
:sick: :lemon:
www.aztekfanclub.com/CMS/index.php/download_file/-/395
The clicking indicate power problem, either battery is weak, cable/connection problem or charging system has issues.
But I do love my Aztek... really I do....
The gas guage problem may be caused by water getting in connector c305 which is under the car just to the rear of the drivers seat. Water gets in the connector and follows the wires to the inside of the car causing a major corrision problem. One of those connectors is for the fuel pump/gas guage. Google Pontiac Aztek C305 and see wgat comes back. This has been a major problem on these cars but can be fixed.
If you had your brake work done at a shop, take itt back and have them check it.
Stay in touch and let us know how its going.
The ignition lock of my 2002 140K mile Aztek suddenly can't be turned with a key in the ignition cylinder lock, the steering wheel locked up and the vehicle was in park. Turning the key while yanking the steering wheel did not solve the problem so I towed it to a service garage.
Because the vehicle was in park so the wheels were locked up, the tow truck had a hard time to load and unload the vehicle with its wheels immobile! Removing the defective ignition cylinder lock with the steering wheel locked was also a challenge for the experienced mechanic.
The lesson was the flimsy pins in the ignition cylinder lock do wear out after the keys moved in and out thousands times, and it fails just a matter of time. Replacing the ignition cylinder lock when you can drive your vehicle to your favorite garage (with the steering wheel can be turned and the vehicle not in park position) is easier and cheaper than towing, breaking something in the lock to replace the cylinder lock.
It is easy to replace the cluster, but make sure to purchase the right one. I got a brand new one from Ebay for $100. It was cheap because the odometer is metric which I was not aware of that until driving the vehicle. No big deal, just get used to the metric/English conversion
I love my Aztek and I really hope these problems are fixable.