I've seen you on here before. Have you had the electrical connector C305 checked? It is under the car on the driver side just behind the drivers seat. Since it's exposed to the weather the connections get corroded and can cause all kinds of problems. If your car is all wheel drive it has 3 connectors and if front wheel drive it will have two connectors. They are supposed to be weather proof but small amounts of water can seep in and the wires and connectors turn to crap and make the car run terrible if it runs at all. If you can't check it, have it checked and I bet you find the problem. Let me know if you need any more information about this problem.
I feel I need to re-stress how important connector C305 is to these cars (see message #468). If water gets inside this connector, it works it's way up the wire and inside the car under the carpet behind the drivers seat and degrades the wire to the point where the car will start and stop or not start at all. In addition, you may have AWD issues as well because this is basically a junction for the electrics under the car almost to the rear bumper and is suppose to be water proof but I have seen many cases where this has happened. So if you are experiencing problems like Lumbeelady, this is one of the first things to check or have checked.
your problem is not wheel berings,it's your A.B.S. wire harness going to it,they get kinked and work intermittingly.I had same problem till I changed them both.best place to buy them is Rockauto.com 24$ each.good luck
Hello: I noticed some fuel pump msgs but my '04 AWD Aztec has a strange problem. On a very hot (95) day, I took the vehicle for a wheel balance. Afer balancing, the tech pulled out of the garage and parked the Aztec while I paid by bill. I got into the Aztec turned the ignition to start, it fired up but immediately died. Any further cranking did not do so much as a sputter. I went inside and said what did you do to this thing, it won't start. Their mechanic checked and said it was getting spark but no fuel and said the fuel pump was the problem. After quoting me the price($$$$) they started to drive me home. About 10 min. later the driver gets a call and tells me we're heading back to the shop, the car started. When we get back the mechanic said they pushed in into the bay and he decided to try and start it one more time before he started tearning down the fuel tank and it started several times in a row. We took it for a test ride and it was problem-free. That was 2 months ago and I have not had a problem since. But I can't trust that it won't happen again. Do I pop for a new fuel pump? Thank you.
I would wait. There has been a problem that I have never seen a good answer for in that if it is running for a bit, then shut off for JUST a few minutes and you try to 'hot' start it it won't fire up. The only solution that works for me is to hold it in the start position the second time untils it does fire (also the more TIMES you try the worse it seems to get).
HHmm, I believe in addition to standard features the 1SC includes: •Traction Control System •6-way adjustable driver's seat with power height adjustments and more •Sliding rear cargo tray •Cruise control •Remote keyless entry •Roof rack system •AM/FM stereo with RDS, compact disc player, auto reverse cassette, rear audio controls, and Pioneer premium 10-speaker system
Heads up display There should be a sticker on one of the removable panels in back that includes all the RPO codes, you could google based on that and see what else might be included.
It started up, I put it in reverse, then it died. No amount of cranking would make it fire, there was no fuel getting to the engine. Why it started about 15-20 min later and keeps running fine is a mystery. No check engine light came on.
ok, thats a different problem. With an electric fuel pump I would usually expect it to fail completely (not fail and then be ok). With this vehicle it could very well be an issue with the c305 connector. This can be an intermitent thing. google 'gm c305 connector' for more info.
I have a 2002 Ponyiac Aztec , Just had a brand new water pump installed and new thermostat , now the temp needle on my coolant gauge would rise and stop about midway when I have the a/c on butr would rise a little higher with it off , it would drop when Im not in traffic , my question is what is the normal position my gauge should be in and should it be rising , but it is not running hot .......what should I do
It sounds about right to me. It does rise a bit (even up to 3/4 or so in warm weather stop and go, even mostly stop) . WIth A/C on both fans turn on so it would tend to be lower (except in really hot weather)
2001 Pontiac Aztek Base – 99,000 miles. Engine runs great, like it is brand new, but the issues below are forcing me to look for something else as I am worried that there is more going on than just the BCM. I really love this car, it has been pretty good to me for the last 10 years...hate to "junk it".
Do these issues sound like a bad BCM?
Symptoms in order they happened:
1. Replaced head light and after that car started beeping like the door was open and would not stop. Had to unplug the battery and let sit for 10-15 minutes then it would stop 2. Beeping continued for a while intermittently. Would turn car off and the beeping would start and not stop until I unhooked batter. 3. Every so often the security warning would come up and the radio would not work, would also have to unhook battery to resolve. 4. Check Engine Light came on and stayed on a piece of electric take resolved this 5. Windows started acting up. They decided when they would allow me to roll them down or up. Sometimes they would work perfect, others some would go up and others would stay down or vice versa 6. Driver window stopped responding all together. After replacing the battery one time the windows all worked perfect until I turned the car off and back on, then the same issues occurred. 7. AC/HEAT stopped blowing on levels 2,4,5 8. AC/Heat stopped blowing on 1,3 .was able to get 3 working again temporarily by pulling the BCM fuse but it stopped again after turning the car off and pulling the fuse has not worked since. 9. Key get stuck in ignition .it turns back but not all the way off. I have to stick a pen under the steering column in a little whole. This allows me to turn the key the rest the way and remove. This happens every time you turn the car off.
***edit*** - AC and heat are still hot and cold. When on the express way it will pull in some outside air and blow ever so lightly and you can feel the that it is hot when on heat and cold when on ac.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read my post and for any comments/suggestions you may have.
Kinda of sounds like it may be BCM related (but may not need replacement). Do you have a sunroof that may be leaking and letting water track where it doesn't belong?
When you pulled BCM fuse, was it #28 in underhood fuse box and did you leave it out for a bit (30 sec or so)?
A bad cable connection could cause troubles also I might check to ensure the plastic ring on cable where it connects to battery is pinched between cable and battery, and while your under the hood check to ensure the fat cable that goes from battery to underhood fuse box has a good connection (not loose or corroded).
No Sunroof, but i have been reading on these boards about water getting under the carpet even for those that do not have the sunroof. I may check that and the other cables you suggested this weekend...kinda tuff this week with the Holiday.
I would even be happy if it is the BCM, i'm just scared to replace it and it not resolve anything.
Thank you for the reply, I will look at the connections and cables and hopefully if that is it my untrained eye can spot it.
Pontiac Aztek-2003-FWD-2WD The key is locked in the ignition. All the wires under at the shifter are ok, fuses are ok, and we tried wiggling the wheel and rocking the car. The key realease button does not release the key. We took the column apart and cannot find any other reason except that either the tumblers are jammed or the elctromagnetic key release is broken. Today is Sunday and have to wait until tomorrow to speak to a dealer about this and parts. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Mike, This is my 1st time on here and what prompted me to look is my heater stopped working in my 2001 Aztek this morning. #1-4 have not been working for a couple years so I have only been to run it on high. When I read your post I couldnt beleive that you are having or have had alot of the same probems I am with my Aztek.
* Every so often the security warning would come up, Check Engine Light came on and stays on, Windows started acting up. They decided when they would allow me to roll them down or up. Sometimes they would work perfect, others some would go up and others would stay down or vice versa, Driver window stopped responding all together, AC/Heat stopped blowing 1-4, now 5 is gone too, key get stuck in ignition .it turns back but not all the way off. I have to stick a pen under the steering column in a little whole (be careful not to break the little thing in the whole, this happened to me and had to take the whole bottom part of the steering column off to get to the lever I have to push forward to get my key out now).
I love my Aztek but think I might have to look for another vehicle too. I just had to replace the water pump. Just thought I would share that I am having the same problems. If you have any suggestions for checking on the AC/Heat thing I would greatly appreciate it. Mel
I have a 2002 Aztek ~ bought this car in 09 ~ knew then the heater only worked on 4 and 5 living in chicago I never worried about it. However now it only works when the dial is turned to 4. So I'm thinking next it may just stop working. Any one know the sulution or cause for this. Thanks so much in advance!
I see that some people have had the same issue as I have and I'm just wondering if anyone found a solution. I can be driving or even in park and my headlights, dash and radio will turn off for a few seconds then back on. Any suggestions?
Hhmm May be one of two things I can think of. On quite a few vehicles when fans speeds 1, then 2, then 3 etc go out, its the blower motor resister assembly. If 4 and 5 were working and now only 4 works it may be the HVAC cluster that is going bad.
try taking your battery cables off , wait 15 mins then reconnect cables to your battery to reset the computer this happen to me at a auto store thank god the worker told me that the key needed to be reprogram so he told me to do this and it worked didn't have any problems anymore but I know what to do if it happens again.. also seems your car has been sitting long you might need a jump hope this helps.
It is your body control module I took mine to the dealer and they told me I have to take it when it start's up cause it was working fine when I took it over there, well I don't know when this will happen again, so for now I drive it like that and sometimes my lights will go out while driving so i put it on manual. but if you look at the comments you can buy it on Amazon.com for 175.00 compare to 400.00 dollars from dealer 85.00 for them to check it and if your car does not start at all one day it could be your key needs to be reset just take off your cables from battery for 15mins. and put them back on this will reprogram your computer and your car will start.hope this helps.
If the problem is with the body control module, then disconnecting the battery will not fix the issue. Part number for the BCM is 15235418. Hope this helps.
The other day I was picking someone up in my Aztek (2004), and while I was idling, I began to smell a burning/melting plastic smell. The car seemed to still be running fine, so I decided to keep driving it.
Later that day, I discovered that my DIC was no longer functioning (it is completely black). Shortly afterwards, I discovered that the key fob no longer works either.
The most frustrating part is that either because of this or because I am doing something wrong, I cannot get into my car without setting off the alarm. Manually unlocking the driver side door does not disable the alarm.
Any thoughts as to what might be wrong and how I might go about fixing it?
my 2002 Pontiac aztek has been cutting off when we come to a stop, it has just to started to do it all the time. it starts fine the rpm gague goes to 2 then will drop to 0, when it cuts off it will normally take like 5 or 6 tires starting it then it cutting off to get it back to going. what is making it do this? also my car is very loud and there is a clicking like noise associated with it.
I have an 02 aztek awd. I bought it with 22,000 miles on it. It now has 81000 and has had most everything go wrong with it. Pros: I like the dinosaur look and it is pretty good in snow. Cons: computer went, keeps eating batteries, all dash lights (awd, abs, brake, seatbelt, airbags) keep coming on and off along with bell chimes. Now, car won't start. New battery, starter OK, but car only clicks. I would look for a used Kia, Hyundai, Subaru instead of an Aztek. I hate to say it; but I will stick with Korean or Japanese instead of GM. :lemon:
I fell like my Pontiac Aztec is possesed. Every day something new happens. Something is draining the battery, door locks don't work. Window on passenger side wont work. Broken latch on back hatch. Radio said error and then was ok again. Seats go so slow up your never sure they will go or not. Someone cut the wires for the autostart thinking that was draining the battery. I am going crazy. We live in a remote area and not too many mechanics around. I could use some feedback.
I have a question. I own a 2001 Aztek and know where the one filter is in the glove box, but where is the other one? I just get lousy heat. A/C is fine. But heat is weak. It seams the damper is not closing....... Any suggestings.
You didn't mention what year your Aztek is but from what I see, my guess is the BCM or body control module is bad. These are the kinds of things that happen when the module goes bad. The part number for a replacement is 15235418. If I remember correctly, I found one on Amazon for $175.00 and installed it myself. After you do the install a dealer has to program the module ($85.00) and you're back in business. If a dealer does the work you're looking at $500.00 (parts and labor) at least! Keep us posted and let us know how it goes.
I am NOT a mechanic, but I would say to check the big filter under the hood. My heat and a/c {on an 02} work fine but the switch only works on highest setting. Seems to be a relay problem. Now I can't get the !@#$ thing to start! The starter turns but car only clicks when you turn key. Any suggestions, besides pushing it to the railroad crossing?
Some of the 01's actually had two filters in the cabin (You had to reach a bit for second one). All fan speeds seem ok? Any difference between heat directed to floor or directly towards you?
The typical problem on many vehicles when the fan only works on 5 is the blower motor resister assembly. Usually fan speed one stops working, then 2, then 3 ETC. Potentially there could be a problem with the HVAC cluster also.
The clicking indicate power problem, either battery is weak, cable/connection problem or charging system has issues.
My engine light is on... but I know I need a oxygen sensor. My gas line is patched after springing a leak. My front end makes noise even after new tires, breaks, and rotors. NOW... I can not see my mileage on my dashboard... I have checked fuses... is there anyway I can fix this?? I don't know if I need a oil change cause the light doesn't work and I don't know mileage.... hmmm what else is wrong ...other than hatch is hard to open, the spoiler is right in my rearview, OHH yeah... and my gas gauge doesn't work so I don't know how much gas I have... which causes a problem cause I can't see mileage...
Lets start with the mileage issue first. If you're not having other strange electrical problems you may need an guage cluster. You can get one on ebay but keep in mind there are two different clusters so order the right one for your car. The gas guage problem may be caused by water getting in connector c305 which is under the car just to the rear of the drivers seat. Water gets in the connector and follows the wires to the inside of the car causing a major corrision problem. One of those connectors is for the fuel pump/gas guage. Google Pontiac Aztek C305 and see wgat comes back. This has been a major problem on these cars but can be fixed. If you had your brake work done at a shop, take itt back and have them check it.
Thanks.. I will google that.. and look into guage cluster... and i did the brakes and rotors ...and thought it was calibers.. but nope.. so I am not sure... guess i take it to shop.. but I do most of the work myself.
If you have an Aztek, or any vehicle, with over 150K miles on it you might want to replace the ignition cylinder lock to prevent problems and more expensive repair. The thin pins in the ignition cylinder lock do wear out after thousands time keying in and out and ready to fail at the worst moment!
The ignition lock of my 2002 140K mile Aztek suddenly can't be turned with a key in the ignition cylinder lock, the steering wheel locked up and the vehicle was in park. Turning the key while yanking the steering wheel did not solve the problem so I towed it to a service garage.
Because the vehicle was in park so the wheels were locked up, the tow truck had a hard time to load and unload the vehicle with its wheels immobile! Removing the defective ignition cylinder lock with the steering wheel locked was also a challenge for the experienced mechanic.
The lesson was the flimsy pins in the ignition cylinder lock do wear out after the keys moved in and out thousands times, and it fails just a matter of time. Replacing the ignition cylinder lock when you can drive your vehicle to your favorite garage (with the steering wheel can be turned and the vehicle not in park position) is easier and cheaper than towing, breaking something in the lock to replace the cylinder lock.
When my 2002 Aztek did not display the mileage on the IP cluster, I replaced the cluster and it works fine.
It is easy to replace the cluster, but make sure to purchase the right one. I got a brand new one from Ebay for $100. It was cheap because the odometer is metric which I was not aware of that until driving the vehicle. No big deal, just get used to the metric/English conversion
I took my 2002 Pontiac Aztek in for an oil change today. When one of the workers went to start my car, the key wouldn't turn. The car wouldn't start and the security light in the corner came on. The worker said that it had to do with my key. So, I went and had a new key made. My car turns on and runs fine but now my lights wont turn off. My locks and windows do not work. My gas gauge also doesn't display how much gas I have; It always reads full and my odometer reads error. I was wondering if anyone knew how much it would cost me to get these problems fixed or to explain to me what is wrong. I called a dealership but the mechanic said he cant help me. I love my Aztek and I really hope these problems are fixable.
My guess is the body control module is bad. The part number is 15235418 and is about 175.00 on Amazon. If you can install it all you have to do is take it to the dealer and have it programmed to match your car (about 85.00) and everything should work again. Hope this helps.
I would agree with NEOPOSTMAN, sounds like a BCM issue. You could try removing fuse #28 from the underhood fuse box for about 30 secs before re-installing it, may or may not help. I'd ask also if there is possibility of water instrusion (like a leaky sunroof)
Comments
I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Are you using an independent shop or a GM dealership?
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
I noticed some fuel pump msgs but my '04 AWD Aztec has a strange problem. On a very hot (95) day, I took the vehicle for a wheel balance. Afer balancing, the tech pulled out of the garage and parked the Aztec while I paid by bill. I got into the Aztec turned the ignition to start, it fired up but immediately died. Any further cranking did not do so much as a sputter. I went inside and said what did you do to this thing, it won't start. Their mechanic checked and said it was getting spark but no fuel and said the fuel pump was the problem. After quoting me the price($$$$) they started to drive me home. About 10 min. later the driver gets a call and tells me we're heading back to the shop, the car started. When we get back the mechanic said they pushed in into the bay and he decided to try and start it one more time before he started tearning down the fuel tank and it started several times in a row. We took it for a test ride and it was problem-free. That was 2 months ago and I have not had a problem since. But I can't trust that it won't happen again. Do I pop for a new fuel pump? Thank you.
•Traction Control System
•6-way adjustable driver's seat with power height adjustments and more
•Sliding rear cargo tray
•Cruise control
•Remote keyless entry
•Roof rack system
•AM/FM stereo with RDS, compact disc player, auto reverse cassette, rear audio controls, and Pioneer premium 10-speaker system
Heads up display
There should be a sticker on one of the removable panels in back that includes all the RPO codes, you could google based on that and see what else might be included.
It started up, I put it in reverse, then it died. No amount of cranking would make it fire, there was no fuel getting to the engine. Why it started about 15-20 min later and keeps running fine is a mystery. No check engine light came on.
Do these issues sound like a bad BCM?
Symptoms in order they happened:
1. Replaced head light and after that car started beeping like the door was open and would not stop. Had to unplug the battery and let sit for 10-15 minutes then it would stop
2. Beeping continued for a while intermittently. Would turn car off and the beeping would start and not stop until I unhooked batter.
3. Every so often the security warning would come up and the radio would not work, would also have to unhook battery to resolve.
4. Check Engine Light came on and stayed on a piece of electric take resolved this
5. Windows started acting up. They decided when they would allow me to roll them down or up. Sometimes they would work perfect, others some would go up and others would stay down or vice versa
6. Driver window stopped responding all together. After replacing the battery one time the windows all worked perfect until I turned the car off and back on, then the same issues occurred.
7. AC/HEAT stopped blowing on levels 2,4,5
8. AC/Heat stopped blowing on 1,3 .was able to get 3 working again temporarily by pulling the BCM fuse but it stopped again after turning the car off and pulling the fuse has not worked since.
9. Key get stuck in ignition .it turns back but not all the way off. I have to stick a pen under the steering column in a little whole. This allows me to turn the key the rest the way and remove. This happens every time you turn the car off.
***edit*** - AC and heat are still hot and cold. When on the express way it will pull in some outside air and blow ever so lightly and you can feel the that it is hot when on heat and cold when on ac.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read my post and for any comments/suggestions you may have.
Mike
Do you have a sunroof that may be leaking and letting water track where it doesn't belong?
When you pulled BCM fuse, was it #28 in underhood fuse box and did you leave it out for a bit (30 sec or so)?
A bad cable connection could cause troubles also I might check to ensure the plastic ring on cable where it connects to battery is pinched between cable and battery, and while your under the hood check to ensure the fat cable that goes from battery to underhood fuse box has a good connection (not loose or corroded).
I would even be happy if it is the BCM, i'm just scared to replace it and it not resolve anything.
Thank you for the reply, I will look at the connections and cables and hopefully if that is it my untrained eye can spot it.
The key is locked in the ignition. All the wires under at the shifter are ok, fuses are ok, and we tried wiggling the wheel and rocking the car. The key realease button does not release the key. We took the column apart and cannot find any other reason except that either the tumblers are jammed or the elctromagnetic key release is broken. Today is Sunday and have to wait until tomorrow to speak to a dealer about this and parts. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
This is my 1st time on here and what prompted me to look is my heater stopped working in my 2001 Aztek this morning. #1-4 have not been working for a couple years so I have only been to run it on high. When I read your post I couldnt beleive that you are having or have had alot of the same probems I am with my Aztek.
* Every so often the security warning would come up, Check Engine Light came on and stays on, Windows started acting up. They decided when they would allow me to roll them down or up. Sometimes they would work perfect, others some would go up and others would stay down or vice versa, Driver window stopped responding all together, AC/Heat stopped blowing 1-4, now 5 is gone too, key get stuck in ignition .it turns back but not all the way off. I have to stick a pen under the steering column in a little whole (be careful not to break the little thing in the whole, this happened to me and had to take the whole bottom part of the steering column off to get to the lever I have to push forward to get my key out now).
I love my Aztek but think I might have to look for another vehicle too. I just had to replace the water pump. Just thought I would share that I am having the same problems. If you have any suggestions for checking on the AC/Heat thing I would greatly appreciate it.
Mel
Later that day, I discovered that my DIC was no longer functioning (it is completely black). Shortly afterwards, I discovered that the key fob no longer works either.
The most frustrating part is that either because of this or because I am doing something wrong, I cannot get into my car without setting off the alarm. Manually unlocking the driver side door does not disable the alarm.
Any thoughts as to what might be wrong and how I might go about fixing it?
:sick: :lemon:
www.aztekfanclub.com/CMS/index.php/download_file/-/395
The clicking indicate power problem, either battery is weak, cable/connection problem or charging system has issues.
But I do love my Aztek... really I do....
The gas guage problem may be caused by water getting in connector c305 which is under the car just to the rear of the drivers seat. Water gets in the connector and follows the wires to the inside of the car causing a major corrision problem. One of those connectors is for the fuel pump/gas guage. Google Pontiac Aztek C305 and see wgat comes back. This has been a major problem on these cars but can be fixed.
If you had your brake work done at a shop, take itt back and have them check it.
Stay in touch and let us know how its going.
The ignition lock of my 2002 140K mile Aztek suddenly can't be turned with a key in the ignition cylinder lock, the steering wheel locked up and the vehicle was in park. Turning the key while yanking the steering wheel did not solve the problem so I towed it to a service garage.
Because the vehicle was in park so the wheels were locked up, the tow truck had a hard time to load and unload the vehicle with its wheels immobile! Removing the defective ignition cylinder lock with the steering wheel locked was also a challenge for the experienced mechanic.
The lesson was the flimsy pins in the ignition cylinder lock do wear out after the keys moved in and out thousands times, and it fails just a matter of time. Replacing the ignition cylinder lock when you can drive your vehicle to your favorite garage (with the steering wheel can be turned and the vehicle not in park position) is easier and cheaper than towing, breaking something in the lock to replace the cylinder lock.
It is easy to replace the cluster, but make sure to purchase the right one. I got a brand new one from Ebay for $100. It was cheap because the odometer is metric which I was not aware of that until driving the vehicle. No big deal, just get used to the metric/English conversion
I love my Aztek and I really hope these problems are fixable.