Pontiac Aztek

tracyrenee

Have u found out anything else in regards to ur Aztek issue? My mom just started having the same issues AWD Disabled and we don't know what to do about it. We r both women and she don't have a lot of money. We already tried to reset it by turning the ignition on and off like the owners manual states yet light remains on. She just recently had a flat and a tire change. It started the other day when I was driving down the road and it was like it was fixing to run out of gas losing power then I let up off the gas pedal and gave gas again and it drove ok. next time it happened I gave more gas and I could hear the engine rev up but no power until I let of the gas and applied the gas pedal again. Please let me know what u have found out.
Thanks

ray80

First thing, did the light start coming on AFTER the flat/tire change?
Things it may be are a speed sensor/connection that is bad or there is a wiring harness (google gm 'c305 connector' ) or it may be an issue with the ECBM (brake module)

hisbabygirl13

my 2001 pontiac aztec wont start. the key is half way turned. to where the air and radio will come on but it wont crank or turn back to come out.the key is stuck in the ignition. but you can kinda wiggle it like its loose. we have already checked the battery and the gear shift works fine.... whats wrong?"

swfloridacoast

Try turning the steering wheel when turning the key. Also, the car has a tricky computer system and the security shuts the car down when there is something wrong. I had similar issues and when the transmission was fixed the failure to allow start/failure to allow gearshift went away. Ditto for loss of accuracy/complete loss of speedometer which no one was able to explain but seems to have gone away when the transmission is happy. Have someone you can trust give the car a good look over and read all the codes. I'm over 130,000 now and do love the car and feel very surefooted in it when it's not costing me money. My husband thinks it deserves a Mercedes emblem for what it cost overall.

hisbabygirl13

i need help! my 2001 Aztek wont start. the key is half way turned. to where the air and radio will come on but it wont crank or turn back to come out.the key is stuck in the ignition. but you can kinda wiggle it like its loose. we have already checked the battery and you can go to any gear so its not that .... whats wrong?

ray80

Couple things. First to get the key out there should be a rubbery thing on the steering column (towards the dash from where key is), open that and insert something small like a pen or bent paperclip to cantact a button/switch in there. Key should turn then to get it out.

For the problem that got it stuck to begin with I would first suspect battery/power problem (such as cable connection). It takes a lot of power to start it and even though lights and other stuff work, starting may not happen and a bad connection can cause what you are seeing (been there before).
It may also be a problem with the ignition lock cylinder itself.

jenavere

The motor is still working, I can hear it cycle through when I hit the button, I think the window may be "off track" and I am absolutely broke and cannot get to a garage...it is also not garage kept, and has no shelter from the rain. Can anyone tell me if I can fix this myself?

ray80

Ouch, I assume its all the way down abd you can't get ahold of it to assist lifting it up.

I think the only thing you could do is get at it by removing the door panel. It would involve carefully (so as not to break attachment points) prying it out starting at the bottom and then removing anything else thats holding it together at least to the point where you can reach window. AT the very least you may be able to help it go up until you can come up with a correct fix.

jenavere

radracer37

When I use the right turn signal at night the high beams come on and when I turn the signal off the high beams turn off. Just had the Body Module replaced and flashed. I am wondering what would still cause this?

My radio is not working after the Body Module repair now and was wondering why as well.

Thank you for any help.

luludo01

I, too, am having nonstop problems with my beloved Aztek's brakes. My 2004 does Not have ABS brakes but since last year we have been in and out of the shop for the same issues that I have been seeing on this forum. There is a creaking, grinding noise when you step on the brakes. It is very noticeable especially at lower speeds. Let me start off by saying we drove "Betsy" across the country last June of 2011, from Michigan to Northern California. Needless to say it is far more mountainous here than in MI. The grinding started in about November of last year and we took her in for service. The rear rotors were ground and brake pads replaced. Grinding started a few days later. Took it back in and they replaced the rotors. Grinding started a few days later. Frustrated, took it to different mechanic, they said foreign rotors no good and replaced with American. Grinding started a few days later. Took back, now it's a rusted out part (Spring inside rotor) not covered under the brake warranty so that has been replaced. Grinding started a few days later. Now I do not have ABS so I am not having sensors going off, but my gauges don't much work anyway(speedometer and gas) I have worked around this by using my trip odometer for gas and driving with traffic lol. These brakes have been replaced so many times, and I'm not even going to mention the power steering issues that have started. Is there anything to be done?

ray80

I don't know why you would only hear it when braking, but I think I would be checking for bad wheel bearing, many have had to get replacements.

greighn

jones1920

i just purchased a 2003 Aztek and I am having so many problems with it! Recently as i drive to and from chicago daily highway driving is fine BUT as soon as i do city driving ( stop and go) it cuts off and the battery light comes on. it happens mostly at the stop lights/stop signs or going under 1RPM. Before this my axle boot was broken. When i purchased the car i had a bumper to bumper exam and i was told it would need a tune up and starter. When i took it back to the dealer they only fix the axle book and said that i have a brand new starter and eventually would need a tune up! PLEASE HELP! i am getting the run around! :sick:

neopostman

Sounds like an idle air control valve problem. Do you have a "service engine soon" on the dash while you are driving? If you can provide me with more info, I might be able to help.

05_aztek

I have an 05 aztek and right now I am having 99 % of the issues in these forums. Check engine, awd and change oil light all on after changing knuckle bushings, gas guage fluctuates, temp running high with no coolant fans kicking on, clunking noise in rear end. Had it checked for codes and said it only had one for the engine coolant sensor, but replaced it and light still on. Recently started losing a lot of power going up hill.

swfloridacoast

If you have a genuine transmission guy you can trust have him check the transmission fluid for incursion of water/coolant. Also check for the reverse: transmission fluid in the coolant. There is a part in between that cools the transmission (DON'T KNOW WHAT IT'S CALLED) that failed and that was where all my trouble was. Cost me rebuilt transmission, then cost me new radiator / coollant system the following year because the tranny guy didn't know the 'water' was coolant - how could he? These are not separate troubles. After that replaced two solenoids and then one solenoid in the transmission but by that time it was fixed enough that it was throwing off codes when check engine came on that indicated the solenoids. I too had hesitancy problems before the solenoids were replaced and I don't know if they were bad to begin with or the water/coolant in the transmission ruined them. My first issue with this car was the manifold had to be reset/welded because engine lost compression and I believe that was because of the coolant issues. I still have the AWD disable and antilock issues (ABS? - 2002 GM various model issues) which are probably electrical wiring issues and turn off/reset when you restart the car. I'm saving up for that. I am an original owner of a 2003. Of all the lemons I've owned (I am a GM diehard) it's my favorite and I plan not to give up on it.

ray80

For the change oil light it just needs to be reset (you can do it if you find the procedure, I don't have it). Clunking noise may be broken spring. AWD disabled light and gas gauge thing may be due to C305 connector (google 'gm c305 connector' for more info). The fans normaly won't come on until the temp gets really near the redline. but to check to see if they work at all turn the A/C on high and watch, they should both come on within a couple minutes. Perhaps an air and fuel filter may be in order also.

gmcustsvcsarah

Good morning 05_aztek,

What are your plans for getting these concerns looked into? If you wanted for us to check to see if there's any recall information we can pass along for you, please send us the last 8 digits of your VIN at socialmedia@gm.com

Sarah, GM Customer Service

korish1975

I recently got into a fender bender and my front bumper was ripped off my aztek and my psngr side headlight came flying off...it has been to the body shop and all was repaired and seemed fine. The next day we drove the car the airbag light, abs light and seatbelt lights all started to pop on. The "security" message came on in the message box and the dash lights started to blink on and off as well as the radio. My wife drove it to work a few days later and all of the above started to happen again except this time the car actually shut off on her while driving.
I read a lot of the posts on here about the BCM going bad and I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the mechanics who repaired the vehicle. Did they screw up the wiring to make all this happen?
Side note: I did take it back to the body shop that did the initial repairs and they said that the car didn't do any of the things that we said it did...of course...they reset the computer and said if it happened again to bring it back...well guess what it did it again as we were taking it off their lot...now they are telling me that it might have something to do with the communication between the BCM and the dash cluster...i think they screwed up and are just trying to find an out...
any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated...my wife loves this car to death and i want to keep it going but dont want to put her in any harms way!

Thanks

05_aztek

I dont have a lot of money so I have slowly been replacing parts to try to fix my problems but when my husband gets home I will be sure to send the vin.

05_aztek

Thanks for the reply! When I get some cash I will have fluids checked but as for the change oil light, I have reset it but still comes back on. Even got the three chimes saying it was resey. I cheked the c305 connector and appears to be fine. Also what could be wrong with the cooling fans? Changed relay and sensor on motor. Also I can not get the radiator cap off for the life of me. I have been putting the antifreeze in the reserve tank because I cant get the cap off.

gmcustsvcsarah

Good morning korish1975,
We're grateful that everybody's okay after the accident you had with your Aztek. Was the shop that you took you one of our GM dealerships? If so, we're happy to check into this further! Please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com

Sarah, GM Customer Service

shannonquilll

Hello Neopostman,
You stated that you have a wiring diagram for an aztek? Could you please email it to me at shannonquill@yahoo.com? I need to double check where the security system wiring is located. I found some majorly corroded wires that weren't barely making a connection anymore, so I striped them and re wired them. I'd just like to double check that those wires are indeed the ones that I needed to repair so that the darn security system is not tripping my ignition and false alarms all the time. Its embarrassing and so very annoying. Thanks in advanced! Shannon (And yes fellah's, I am indeed a female who does her own auto repairs)

stever

You might score the wiring diagram you need at BBB Industries too. Free.

Let us know if you want your post removed to avoid spam (and unsolicited marriage proposals :shades: ). We frown on posting contact information here.

pcooley

ok, word of advice....pass on the AZTEK unless you have extensive patience and a deep pocket book! Mine was a gift from my sister-in-law when she bought a new vehicle. So mind you we are eternally grateful. From day one we have power lock issues that change from day to day. IE sometimes the power lock on one door doesnt work. on another its another door. Use the fob to lock the car and the horn notifies its all locked, but there is usually one or 2 unlocked doors. The ABS light comes on. Manual says: immediately stop the car and turn it off. Wait a few minutes then restart, light should go off (it does ) if light doesnt go off have vehicle serviced immediately. this week the abs has decided to engage while we are driving on DRY roads.
We had the issue everyone on here is mentioning with the key/ignition/lock. First time it happened we couldnt turn the car off. fortunately my son was here and he opened the shifter panel, and the steering/ignition area. there was a black pin and he pushed it from the bottom of the steering wheel with an ink pin and was able to turn the car off and take the key out. We tried starting the car and would have to release with ink pen to start car too. He took it all apart and used a zip tie to hold the pin in and have not had problems with that. I can however take the key out of the ignition while it is runnin. :-)

Most of the work has to be done by a mechanic as most parts are well buried.

neopostman

I have two of these cars and it sounds like most of your problems are caused by a defective BCM or body control module available online for about $175.00 from Amazon. I don't have the P/N in front of me at the moment, but if you like I can find them for you. Just let me know.

bandaide

Not sure if this is the right place to post, but I have a 2004 Aztek that is not shifting properly. I had a replacement transmission put in less than a year ago and it always shifted very hard. I have taken it back and the shop always told me that this was normal. Well it is now to the point that it will not go into second gear intermittently and increasing in frequency-up to 8 times a day. This just started about 1 month ago. It will go in first and then when it is supposed to hit second gear it is like it is in neutral and RPM's rev up until it hits third gear, or if I stay at 15mph it will engage in 2nd gear. The transmission guy states that it is not his tranmission, but rather electrical as he cannot pull any codes except my EGR valve. My question is this: Is it possilbe that my loss of second gear is due to electrical and not actually my transmission? Again no codes are showing on the scan except my EGR valve which has been on for years.

neopostman

Most likely the valve body in the transmission has some stuck valves. Take the car to a proper transmission shop and get it repairded properly. The egr code could be a false code. On the 01 model GM redid the software for the engine computer (which mine needed) and that took care of the problem and may fix yours as well. Let me know if I can be of any help.

amandawicks82

My Aztek has just started to give me problems and it has been a huge headache. C-305 was bi-passed didn't have a problem for a while then would try to start but sounds like its not getting gas so we replaced the fuel pump. Drove it for a month the problem has started back up again. Still acts like its not getting gas but cranks. Any Ideas? It is at the shop they think its the computer becaue I had to have it towed because it died but after getting to the shop it has started everytime. I am having them change the fuel pump again to make sure its not a bad one. Please I really need help I don't want to scrap this car its a 2003 with less than 90,000 miles on it.

ray80

When was last time fuel filter was changed?

amandawicks82

As far as I know never. I asked my mechanic if that would cause this problem and they said no. That is why I messaged on here. I know you have a lot of experience with these cars. They are trying to say it is the computer but have no basis for their opinion at this point being I think this is the first Aztek they have worked on.

amandawicks82

Sorry apparently yes the fuel filter has been change. During this whole thing.

amandab

I had this problem. I had my fuel pump changed 5 times (good thing under warranty everytime ) We finally figured it out, Not sure if your Aztec is set up like mine was, but right where you put your gas in, theres a line the following your tire wall then into the car. Mine there was a crack right in the top of it, so when I would drive I would kick dirt into the gas line. Then when I would put gas into the car, I would flush the dirt through fuel line & pump. Eventually destoring the fuel pump. Hope this helps

j1976

I too bought a new 2003 Aztek...Transmission went bad after 66,000 miles..the car was meticulously maintained and the dealer could not give me a decent explanation other than it happens..New transmission put in and it went bad after 87,000 miles....no explanation from dealer...on third transmission now..Contacted Gm they worked out a deal to reimburse me for 1/2 of the price of the transmission, but the dealership would not honor it. Needless to say I have told prospective buyers bot to visit this dealership...I think there is definitely a problem with the Aztek line period and Gm knows it...Now using this as second car...I have bought Gm cars all my life, but after my experience with the dealership, I went out and bought a new Toyota.

swfloridacoast

Re ABS AWD warnings - after several years of problems with this one - finally got a computer message when the lights were on and I got to dealership. Indicated a front wheel sensor - they checked it out and two weeks later problem still seems to be solved. The wire to the wheel sensor did not properly connect - there was a gap and corrosion causing the intermittant unpredictable problem - so they replaced it (the part resembled a big usb port plug with an 18 inch wire attached) not the sensor nor the hub. This fix was only $170. A thank you to Sarah who trolls the boards for GM and who connected with the dealer - but I never complained about the Chevy dealership, I thought and still think they have been wonderful. It was now dead Pontiac's lack of full disclosure that caused the high, repetitive repair bills. Sarah also had suggested if they could not catch the error codes to put a fulltime monitor on the codes. Tell this all to your dealership.

chicagoandy

HI, SINCE JANUARY I HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I START MY DAY AND LEAVE MY HOUSE. I DRIVE 5 BLOCKS AND RUN INTO THE STORE AND COME OUT 20 MINS LATER. MY AZTEK WONT START. I WAIT 20 MINS OR SO AND IT WILL START. IT NEVER DOES THIS FOR THE DEALER SO THEY CLAIM THEY CANT DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. I CHANGED THE FUEL PUMP, STARTER, IGNITION CYLINDER AND THE FUEL PUMP RELAY SWITCH. THE RELAY SWITCH WAS CHANGED IN THE SPRING AND RAN FINE ALL SUMMER WITHOUT A ISSUE. NOW, IN OCTOBER IT IS DOING IT AGAIN. IM AFRAID TO RUN ERRANDS! HAVE YOU HAD ANY LUCK SOVING THE PROBLEM?

bigzdog1

Have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek Base I just bought and it has an interesting problem. It is equipped with DRLs and Auto Lamp so the full headlights come on when it gets dark.

The problem is the lights do not turn off when I turn the car off. IE: If it is light out the DRLs stay on until the battery dies or if it is dark the headlights/running/tail lights all stay on until the battery dies.

The interior switch only has AUTO/RUNNING/HEADLIGHTS as an option there is no OFF. I usually leave it in the AUTO position.

I can get the lights to turn off by turning the car off, then moving the switch to either RUNNING or HEADLIGHTS then back to AUTO and the lights turn off. It is just a pain to remember to do this otherwise I come out to a dead battery.

Looking for a cheap way to fix this or any ideas of what could be causing it. My idea for a fix is to bypass the twilight sensor on the dash so it always thinks it is light out then pull the DRL fuse. My hope is then when the switch is in the AUTO position the lights will always be off.

I am definitely open to any other ideas that won't cost much because this is car is not worth much anymore I just don't want any more dead batteries.

ray80

Sounds like a annoying and perhaps difficult issue to diagnois. It could be an issue with BCM, and one thing you could try is to remove fuse #28 from underhood fuse box for about 30 secs then re-seat it. May or may not change whats happening, but its quick and easy.

ray80

This may be a hot start problem I've had with ours on occaision, never have seen a real fix for it.

I can get around it b holding key it start position for much longer then usual, until it starts. It seemed to be the more attempts at starting the worse it got (or at least didn't get any better)

amandawicks82

at this point I don't think that is the problem it can sit all night and then not start first thing in the morning. Also no matter how long I hold the key in the start position still no start. No fix yet still open to any suggestions.

bigzdog1

Thanks for the suggestion, but no effect. Left the fuse out for about 5 minutes but same symptoms

gmcustsvc

Hello chicagoandy,

We're sorry that this problem has been difficult to diagnose; if you would like for us to follow up on this with your dealership please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more information (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealer).

Sarah, GM customer Service

amandawicks82

I bought this car used and it went to a dealership at $99 dollars an hour. They decided throwing parts at it was a good idea. Currently I have an Aztek parked in my yard that will not start. I have put almost $2000 into it and its still not fixed. I love the car but need it to start and can't afford to keep changing parts when they don't know whats wrong with it. GM needs to stand behind their products and actually fix this problem. It apparently should have been recalled because its multitude of problems. I needs some ideas of what it is so I can tell my mechanic or the GM dealership. GM should be footing the bill!!!!

mertier

gmcustsvc

amandawicks82,

Have you already contacted the Customer Assistance Center on this already? If not, and if you wanted for us to get a Service Request started so we can check into this further for you, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your dealership).

Sarah, GM Customer Service

lmz12065

Hi guys! New to the forum. Names Larry. Problem is the ABS and the AWD Disable light have come on. Could this be a connection problem at the front hubs? Also while in this condition, will is prevent me from accelerating quickly? I can slowly come to speed, but if I try to speed up quickly, downshift as in getting on a freeway, the car won't do it. Otherwisw she has run pretty well. Thanks for any input!

neopostman

Hey Larry, First thing to try if you're a DIY is check the connectors at all four wheels. Check the connector for the AWD pump on the differential. If that doesn't help, you can go to a dealership (GM) and have the codes pulled for about $100.00. If that's not an option you can buy a brake code reader on ebay like I did for fifty dollars and pull the ABS code yourself. Also make sure you have the correct size tires on the car and not running the mini tire, that will cause the AWD light to come on. Let it know what you find out.

ray80

As suggested a check of connections to wheel speed sensors might be good first step, loose or corroded wouldn't be good. Also the c305 connector may be suspect.

ktjp789

Hello-
I own a 2001 Pontiac Aztek with 150,000 miles. Vehicle is in great shape, has had regular maintenance. Recently during colder temps (live in Wisconsin) when the vehicle is first started the idle is very rough. It starts fine and doesn't die, but the RPMs jump and the 'Check Engine' light comes on.
I am able to operate and drive vehicle, but it jerks and chuggs along with the RPM jumping. Once the engine has had a chance to warm up the idle evens out, and the 'Check Engine' light goes out. It operates and drives perfectly. I am confused about where I should start looking, as all my theories are only related to a rough idle all the time.
Any ideas on what would cause it to run rough when cold, but then even out once the engine has warmed?
Thank you~