Pontiac Aztek

lao08

I have a 2002 Aztek. Once it hit 75,000 I slowly had to replace just about everything. The latest is the anti-lock brakes. I had sensors replaced last year because the light kept coming on and the anti-lock was activating on it's own. Now the exact same thing is happening again. Any suggestions on what needs to be done?

david128

The problem may not be overheating. My 2003 Aztec, purchased new, was exhibiting the same symptoms. However, the problem was a faulty instrument cluster. I figured this out after other gauges began showing strange readings. Anyway, the cluster was replaced $$$$ and that fixed the problem for a few months. Then, it failed again. The dealer replaced it again (under warranty this time) and it has been working properly for over a year now. By the way, a Chevy/Buick dealer fixed it. The Pontiac dealer was did not have a clue.

coralh

hi i have the same issue with my aztek as far as the ac goes how much did they charge u to fix it and what was wrong with the ac? thanks in advanced

maureenfreeman

Thank you so much for the information. It will bring closure for my family.

fd2002

The AC compressor clutch does not engage for AC or defrost. The fuse and relay are ok. What else should I look for?

cpenet

Hi my problem is the service vehical soon light. It keeps coming on. I brought it to a repair shop and they said the code was b1000 and suggested I bring it to the dealer. Can you give me an idea as to where to look for this problem. It's a 2002 astek it just turned 90000 I had water pump and brakes and router replaced 11\2 month ago. Thanks.

jhlavin

After staring at the $68.00 cost to fill the gas tank ...

..... I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THAT MONSTER GAS CAP !!

BCM computer still doing off and on things to the IP gages and headlights !!

Just don't have the $$'s to get it repaired yet ... at 129,000 miles maybe I'll only drive it in the daytime.

Jimbo

stever

How many "drive cycles" have you done since the fill-up? More than three or four?

neopostman

It is most likely the Body Control Module part number 15235418. If you buy it from AC Direct its $175.00 or about $400.00 from the dealer. The dealer will charge you $85.00 to check the car with the Tech2 scan tool to confirm the problem. The service vehicle soon light turns on when you have a problem in the electrical system. Hope this helps. Mike

amans54

I think its a ducting problem because air is not pumped out as much as possible.So its a very better idea to keep the A.C turned off before switching the engine with the air vents open .Actually it helps tha air to free flow through the vents so that all the unwanted smell keeps out of the vents and when you start it next time you wont get it again

cpenet

Thanks for responding so soon. Another question is it the bcm that is reporting the problem or causing the problem? Another words does the service light come on because the bcm tells it to or is the bcm reporting a electrical problem?

ornamentals

I'll try to find my paperwork and let you know. It's been a long while.

grizzlyda

sounds like my doors are locking, they're not...interior fuse box ticks every second like a clock. pwr window in sync with the tick, the windows only go up 1/2 in" at a time as ticks occur...regular lights blink in sync with the tick tick, hi beams work fine,,,insturment panel dark, however LED works, which is how i keep track of mileage. Speedomoter, gas guage RPM needles all drop to bottom..Wipers wont work. pulled some fuses, cant make sense. my mechanic aquaintences dont wanna touch. Expect the dealer will just want to replace the whole module for a lot of $$$

ray80

Well this could be a pretty miserable one to figure out (assuming it may be one problem somewhere). First thing I might try is pulling fuse #28 in the underhood fuse box for 30 seconds or so, it will do sorta a reset for BCM, While your under the hood you might want to check to ensure the fat wire from battery to fuse box in tight and has good connection.

eddy_g

I have a friend with a 2004 Aztek...having the same problems. I found your comments and immediately performed the steps you suggested. I unplugged the connection under the gear shift cover...(did not find any broken wires or bent pins and decided to check it out more completely in the evening when it was not so hot. I went back several hours, put the key in, turned but nothing happened. Checked battery...fully charged. All electrical connections are good. I guess I pulled something apart under the gear shift cover (I don't see how). Any idea on why I the ignition does not engage? It is like the vehicle is in gear; I moved the gear selector to N, then each gear and tried ignition again. Nothing. Engine does not turn over, no clicking, nothing. Any help is appreciated.

ray80

When you plugged the connection under the gear shift back in was it good and tight?

vie

I know this is an old post but I am looking for instructions on replacing the bcm in my 2001 aztek. I have the part but need to know how to get to it under the console. Thanks!

cobra49

I have a 01 Aztek awd with 197000 klm's and have never experienced any problems other than the hard shifting when the engine warms up, mostly from intown driving. As long as the temperature gauage reads around the 1/2 mark all is ok but if it climbs up to 3/4 on the guage all heck breaks loose. Now when this started m mechanic suggested I get the transmission flushed so I did and when the oil was checked for filings etc. there was nothing to indicate interal problems. The problem still persisted afterwards. Now 2 years later the problem is getting worse. On long trips 300 to 400 klm's it has no problems but as soon as I have to slow down to cit traffic it feels like the trans wants to jump out of it. Now we have found one problem with the bump when it shifts was the upper control arm bushings where worn out and allowing lots of movement when it shifted. ou CAN replace just the bushing but lots of places will tell you the arm and bushing are one part. This is not true. Now the problem which makes it shift hard is relativl simple to fix. On the side of the trans there is a cover plate and behind it are some switches and valves, they can be fixed individuall but I got them all replaced as it costs extra money until ou find the right one which was causing problems. There is one valve/switch that when you let up on the gas pedal it locks the trans with the motor to provide some engine breaking but, when ou touch the gas pedal the slightest bit it disconnects this switch, this is whats my problem was it starts working like ABS break system and keeps engaging/disengaging the switch so it makes it sound like the tranny is spewing it's innards all over the road. I hope this helps out somewhat, I love my Aztek and wish I could find another for my kids when they start driving. My "Y" ke doesn't always work so sorry for an spelling mistakes.

stormy_ride

I have a 2004 aztec and I love it. never had any major issues till now. Not sure if I need a mechanic or a catholic preist. lol
it started where I would take the key out and get out of the car and the radio would start playing. then just started coming on and going off when it wasnt suppose to. then it wouldnt start. I got an error message on my odometer, the fuel gauge went to empty and the security light came on. then I would be driving and the radio would go on and off and all the errors and dash lights would come on almost like the car died and then came right back on....weird. sometimes it will start and a minute later it wont. its at my work now cuz yesterday it wouldnt start. I tried it in the am and nothing. tried it at lunch and started right up but the security lite was on. tried it before I left and nothing.....UGH!!!!! I cant even drive to take it in to have dianostics done. I dont have money to play process of elimination. anyone have similar issues?

kwasimoto

I recently picked up my 03 aztek from my mechanic to make the trip from Houston to OKC. My Service engine soon, ABS and Brake lights were still on after having checked and repaired them, but he could not get them to clear after repeated tries. The decision was made to make the trip, I had a deadline to meet, and my mechanic assured me that I shouldn't have any problems.

If only I were so lucky.

Twice during the trip, my aztek completely locked up while I was driving. Both times, I was braking to exit the freeway. I remember hearing a buzzing static like sound before it happened, and then my steering wheel would lock up, the engine would die, and I saw a little puff of white smoke come out of my air vents. Quite scary to say the least.

So my question is has this happened to anyone else? My brakes work fine, but should I be worried about my ABS, or my electrical system as a whole? After reading many of these stories, I am starting to have second thoughts about this vehicle...

neopostman

Dis your Service Vehicle Soon light come on? If it did, that means an electrical system problem and is different than the Service Engine Soon light. Was your mechanic able to pull any trouble codes when he checked the car?

kwasimoto

I think it is the Service Vehicle soon light, not the service engine. Sorry for the mistake.

He also wasn't getting any codes from the read out.

It happened again today, and from the research I've done along with talking to other owners and mechanics, I agree it's electrical. The collective first thought is a short in the system somewhere (which explains the buzzing sound i hear in the speakers, even when the radio is off), probably under the drivers seat. My plan is to get that checked out after the holiday weekend, and I will report back.

Thanks for the help!

neopostman

I can tell you it is an electrical problem if it says Service Vehicle Soon to the left of the speedometer/tach. If the car stops running you need to check the electrical connection underneath the car just to the rear of the drivers seat. If it's just a front wheel drive car it will have two connectors. If it's an all wheel drive car it will have three electrical connectors. These connectors take a beating under there and the connections get corroded and will shut down the fuel pump which in turn stops the car. Also under the hood the air cleaner box rest on top of a main electrical harness and can rub through the wiring so remove the box and check that as well if the connectors under the car check out ok. Some people have been known to cut the carpet in the floor just behind the drivers seat to get at the corroded wires as the weather works it's way up the wires to the inside of the car. If that has happened, you have to replace the wires. I weather proofed both my Azteks just to keep this from happening to me and so far, so good. Let me know if I may be of any further help. Mike

luvdio

My 2001 Aztek runs fine in the cooler weather but when it's hot out, if I try to go a couple of places, it won't start by maybe the 3rd stop. I have to let it sit for about 2 hours before it will start. One time that it didn't start, I was at a garage having my tires replaced. they hooked it up to the computer FIVE times and finally got a reading on it. It showed a bad cam sensor, which they replaced....the very next day, I was left stranded again, same problem.
The next time I had it scanned, no codes showed up. a few weeks later, an engine light appeared and it scanned the code for the EGR valve, which my dad replaced....the next day...I was stranded AGAIN!!! My dad (retired mechanic) is stumped, along with the garage i sometimes take it too, AND several mechanic friends. my only option is to take it to the dealership and have them diagnose it (at $100/hour!) ...my fear is that with no engine lights on, the computer won't show any codes, so I could end up having to replace everything under the hood lol. I love my aztek but as a single mother, I'm not in the position for a new vehicle, and not in the position to keep replacing parts that aren't fixing the problem! I need a reliable vehicle! help!!
I also have my ABS light on, which is causing the ABS to come on even on dry roads! any sugestions are appreciated, I'm at my wit's end! ~Lori

neopostman

Try checking the coolant temp sensor and the air intake temp sensor. These sensors can cause problems like you're having. Let us know what you find out.

ray80

This sounds like a hot start thing we have on ours once in a while. I:E: drive for while and then shut it off for short period (5 or 10 mins.) then try and restart and it cranks but doesn't fire. The more times you try the worse it may get. I do not know of a fix, but get around it by holding key in start positions until it really does start (instead of letting it go after 5 secs or whatever you usually do), it may take 20 secs or so but does start after a bit (At least ours does).

aztekmaybe

Hello - I have been driving an '03 Aztek for about 3 weeks now in consideration of buying it. I must say for the most part I love this vehicle and the way it drives. However, there are a few issues and after reading this forum I am seriously reconsidering. I can buy the vehicle on the low low but... here's the issues... No fans work in the vehicle at the moment...cooling fans, air conditioner, heater, nothing. The temp.gauge shows ok as long as you are in motion but if you idle (even if only for a moment) the gauge rises fairly quickly.
Also, the right side blinker is kinda jacked up. When the right turn signal is engaged the blinker blinks rapidly as if to indicate the bulb is blown. However it is not blown as it works occasionally. I did read upthread where someone else mentioned this happening depending on which "mode" the lights were in. And thinking back it seemed to work when the lights were turned on manually. I will test that later but any ideas on what would cause it not to work in "auto mode"?

Any help or advice (especially regarding the fans) would be greatly appreciated as I live in GA and it is HOT and HUMID as all get out right now.

Oh and by the way, it has a cracked windshield which I just found out will probably cost around $750 to replace!

demarcusakeem

So glad this happened during my test drive... We were parked in a parking lot checking under the hood when I turned off the car. The key wouldn't come out of the ignition and the car wouldn't turn back on. Then I looked on here and saw that this is a HUGE problemf for this model. So glad it happened when it did!

neopostman

Sounds like body control module or BCM (p/n 15235418) which you can find online for about $175 to $200. If you can install it yourself and take it to dealership they can program it for about $85 to $100. The cooling fans could be a fuse or relay. Some one with a good scan tool can go in and turn the fans on/off to see if they run or not. Let me know if I can help you any further.

ray80

If you mean the fans in the cabin, it could be the blower resister assembly (fairly common in many vehicles), or there could be an issue with the HVAC cluster, or the blower itself.

The I don't think should be involved with auto-mode, that should be just the headlamps. I can't remember if the fast blink points to front or rear bulb thing.

The rise in temp gauge at idle isn't to unusual and ours goes to about the 3/4 mark (always has). I might wonder if coolant leavel is ok and if air was properly bled out of system if it goes into the red.

ray80

I had that on one of ours quite often until I corrected the bad cable connection to battery, quite annoying.

neopostman

In reference to post number 447, I was thinking he was talking about the engine cooling fans, my bad. The key stuck and strange electrical events points to the body control module as I mentioned. These cars have gone through tons of those modules and I have no ideal how GM has gotten away without having to pay for this but I just love the car!

music4u

Thanks for the info. My rear hatch on my 2001 aztek would not open. I checked these posts and found the info about #28 fuse. It worked. It has happened several times again and pulling the #28 fuse for 30 seconds is working great. Also discovered that the air conditioner suddenly stopped working. We tried it again after pulling fuse 28 and it also started working.

the only issue I have now is that I probably will have to replace the bcm, but these posts have helped save a lot of time and money. Thanks to everyone so much.

eddy_g

Ray, sorry for the late response---had some health problems and it sidelined me. A quick update...a read on another site to open passenger door and try to start. Vehicle started. Vehicle turned off and key remained in ignition; removed by pushing release under steering column. Returned a few days later to start vehicle and experienced same problems. I've been working on this the past 3 days and cannot get it to start. I double checked the connection and it is good and tight with no bent connections. The vehicle is in my backyard (the owner is away for summer). Also, Model year is 2002, not 2004.

ripple4dream

I have a 2001 aztek frontwd with trac control(btw not working). My problem is i turn the car off and dash board gauges all drop to zero where the mileage is it says error. in the message window it says security. Then the radio will say locked. If i turn the key back and forth and turn the headlight switch back and forth i can sometimes get everything to turn off. Lights will sometimes pop back on or radio will pop back on without key any where near ignition or even the car for that matter. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch which i would in all reality like to replace myself but am i going to run into complications? does an ignition thing need to be programmed as well? I am replacing all four hub to take care of the traction control not working. All of these problems all started at once. I'm just very sad i have a year and a half left of paying off the car that i pay 23% interest on(gotta love America!). I really just don't want to be making the car payment on a car i cant use. Azteks where a good idea i just don't understand all the insane complications that come with it.

neopostman

You need to replace the BCM module part number 15235418 on the internet for about 180.00 dollars then take it to a dealer and have it programmed for 85.00 and your problems will go away. Let me know if I can help with more info.

ripple4dream

thank you i will try to look for one. any ideas on the best place to get one? Also i changed all four hubs thinking that would take care of the anti lock and service traction lights. Unfortunately it did not. I've read on here that maybe it could be the wiring harness for the hubs. I've looked at all of the ends coming into the hubs i cant really see any problems. Is there anywhere to find a diagram that explains where the wires go to? And i tried to find some online to buy figured i would just buy all four but i'm not having much luck on finding them. I don't know if i'm calling it the wrong thing. I found one that said it was for the left front only. Are all the wires for them really that different? Thank you so much for your time and help.

jhlavin

Best place to buy a BCM is on Amazon, about $175.00 shipping.
That replacing unit solved all of my dash board crazy off/on lights .

It's probably connected to the hubs problem also.

Jimary

neopostman

Just Google the part number and some different places should come up (probably Amazon). As for the wheel hubs the rear are different if you have a front wheel drive. If you have an all wheel drive the, the front and rear are the same. You may want to check the connector under the car just to the rear of the drivers seat (C305) if it's all wheel drive there should be three separate connectors. If it's front wheel drive you should have two connectors. These connectors get corroded as they are under the car in the weather and some owners have been known to lift up the carpet and splice the wires together and bypass the connector completely. Let me know if you need any more information Mike.

swimmer123

:confuse: i have a 2001 pontiac aztek awd 3.4..i bought the car used with 160k miles great condition drives excellent..only problem is i had to replace the secondary air control sensor which lead me to the air pump (smog/pollution pump)..THE WIRE FROM THE FUSE BOX TO THE SMOG PUMP ISNT WORKING..BUT THE FUSE IS OK AND THE WIRE FROM THE COMPUTER IS WORKING BUT STILL NO POWER FROM THE PUMP????????..BUT WHEN WE JUMP THE PUMP IT WILL HAVE POWER??? CAN SOMEBODY HELP PLEASE..I ALSO WANTED TO KNOW IF THE SMOG PUMP IS SUPPOSED TO GO ON RIGHT AWAY WHEN I TURN THE CAR ON OR IF IT ONLY GOES ON WHEN THE COMPUTER NEEDS IT TO????..PLEASE HELP ME IVE TRIED EVERYTHING AND IM ASSUMING ITS SOMETHING SMALL/STUPID..THANKS

neopostman

Is the car showing any error codes (service engine soon light or service vehicle soon light) I will pull the wiring diagram for the pump if it will help and email it to you.

dmcneill3

Does anyone know where I can get a illustrated view of the rear drum brakes so I can rebuild my brakes. Haynes manuals don't seem to be available. I need this for today

marquez8

I am having trouble with my dashboard lights since they wont start up, neither will the odometer read on my 2003 pontiac aztek. I allready checked the fuses and they all seem good. Could anyone help me determine the problem

redtina30

IM HAVING THE SAME ISSUES WHICH AUTO ZONES COMPUTER TELLS ME ITS A SENSOR THAT GOES BY THE GAS TANK . I THOUGHT MAYBE IT WAS A ROD KNOCKING OR A TIMING CHAIN

neopostman

Have you tried adjusting the bright/dim knob? It's in the center of the small knob just below the large headlight knob. With the headlights on press the center of the small knob and it should extent out, then turn it back and forth and watch the dash lights to see if they dim/brighten.

neopostman

Looked up some info on the smog pump of your car. The under hood fuse box has a relay #63, if that is bad the pump will not run. Several of the relays are the same so you can swap them around to see if makes any difference. Relay is about dead center of the fuse box and should have the number on top 15328864 if it's the one that came with the car. The GM ID number is 634757 and explains how the system works. I also have the wiring diagram so if anyone knows how to post this on the site, I'll be glad to do so.

marquez8

Yes I have tried that and they still dont manage to turn on everything else dims on and off exepct for that.

neopostman

It may be that the speedometer cluster is bad. I take it that the gauges all work but not the back lighting or odometer. If that's the case, ebay is a good place to find one and there are a few places on there that offer a repair service as well.

marquez8

I already change the speedometer cluster with another one and the lights still dont work. The gauges do work its just the lights that wont turn on.

kcovey

I have a 2005 aztek that I bought brand new and mine has been doing the same thing. I have had my entire exhause replaced, fuel pump & fuel system, I have had front & rear breaks, and calipers & rotors replaced (I have done this approx every 6 months), all tires and still have the same issue. It does this weird hesitation and then a grinding or pop noise. My AWD disable light is on, Service Vehicle Soon, and now my emergency brake light keeps coming on and dinging (I have maybe used my E-brake 10 times). When the garage runs diagnostics they never find anything wrong. I am at my end with this car! Please any help or suggestions!