Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options

Pontiac Aztek

1…9091939596…127

Comments

  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    From what I understand, If you remove the hush panel under dash and perhaps peel back the carpet a bit, you should be able to see drain tube (on passenger side). Hopefully you can gain access to it and run a coat hanger or something through it to clear clog (carefully of course). Haven't had the 'pleasure' of having to do this yet myself so I can't give you any more info.
  • tawnettetawnette Member Posts: 2
    Ray80, You seem to know all about the Aztek. I have a 2001 model and had to change the battery. When I restarted the car, the Service Engine Soon light came on and the gas gauge keeps going to Empty and the Low Fuel Light comes on. After running the car for a few minutes, the gauge goes back up to full and the light goes off. Any ideas how to fix this?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Hhmm could be a number of things. Would I be correct in assuming the fuel gauge and lights only started after battery change? Does it happen everytime you start the Tek, or just after its been sitting for a while? Has the gauge/lights been going on for a while now, and is the replacement battery supposed to be a good one or on less exspensive side? One quess without knowing more is that perhaps the connection from battery to underhood fuse box became loose when battery was changed and/or there may be some corrosion there.
  • tawnettetawnette Member Posts: 2
    The gauges only started going crazy after the battery change. The battery is supposed to be a good one. Now when you start the car, the fuel gauge stays at Full, the temperature gauge doesn't rise and the Service engine soon light stays on. After driving a few minutes the fuel and temperature gauges begin to work. Where is the underhood fuse box?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    If your standing in front of vehicle, the underhood fuse box is just to the right,above, and to the rear of battery (big black rectangular box), and connection from battery is on right hand side.
    One other possibility is perhaps a parasitic battery drain, that might create temperary low voltage that causes light and gauge troubles that gets corrected when vehicle is running and alternater fuly charges battery. A quick easy test for that might be to run it for a while, then shut off for a couple minutes, then restart to see if gauges are working correctly.
  • jtoadvinejtoadvine Member Posts: 5
    Your "psychotic light show" doesn't sound like a computer problem at all....Sounds more like a Body Control Module.

    Part is $240, and if you're even halfway decent with a screwdriver, you can replace it yourself...

    My husband & I replaced mine in 1 1/2 hours - it's located underneath your cup holders.

    Hopefully you already got this fixed since I know you wrote this over a year ago...

    Good Luck! :)
  • jtoadvinejtoadvine Member Posts: 5
    I use "Ice" I believe it is called....It is made by turtle wax, and you can use it on your entire car...You don't have to worry about not getting it on the paint.

    Works great!
  • jtoadvinejtoadvine Member Posts: 5
    So I read through a lot of forums searching for someone with a similar problem. Most people described really loud siren like noises, etc. which I do not have...So I will try to explain as detailed as possible.

    I have a 2001 Aztek, FWD, and has approx. 100k miles on it.

    I have no known problems other than a bad BCM which I replace, and all is good :)

    So on with my problem...

    When I am going really slow...think of backing out of a driveway, and needing to turn and go forward. So when I start to turn the wheel going very slowly, I hear a noise that almost sounds like rubbing or something like that. It's not a metallic noise or anything like that...It just sounds like it's rubbing on something. Hope that makes sense.

    My other question is...Just fairly recently I noticed that when I come to a stop (Not all the time, but sometimes) my car will have a "click" noise...Almost like a CV Joint is going bad, but it sounds like it's further back in the vehicle. Any idea on this???

    Thanks for your help in advance :)

    I absolutely love my aztek, and I attempt to do preventative maintenance before things go bad...So I just want to get a handle on these noises in case they could potentially turn into something bigger :)

    Thanks!!! :)
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Metallic grinding noise most likely wheel bearing. I don't know how to create a link, but you could go to post #48 for an 'un-official' way of checking to see if that might be it.
  • jtoadvinejtoadvine Member Posts: 5
    Oops...I meant to say it's not metallic.

    It's just when I turn the wheel at slow speeds...I wish I had a recording of the noise...It is a very deep rubbing noise, almost like rubber...Not metallic.

    I will check on the wheel bearing though, just in case :) Thanks Ray! :)
  • lostcause245lostcause245 Member Posts: 21
    Does the noise you are trying to describe kind of feel like the tires are skipping across the road? Is it almost like a jerky feel? Mine, I think, is doing what yours is doing. Havent figured mine out yet but it also hasent got any worse either. Lets try to figure this out.
  • jtoadvinejtoadvine Member Posts: 5
    Hmm...I can't say that my tires feel like they're skipping across the road either.

    It's just kind of weird noise/issue to describe.

    Mine only happens at low speed, not while driving down the road...Just when, for example, backing out of a parking space...I reverse...Then when I put it in Drive, and start going and turning the wheel at a really slow speed to go forward it will do it, but not all the time.

    Almost like the power steering fluid is low, but we've checked it and the level is fine. Could just be how it drives I suppose :) It never has seemed to cause an actual problem with the driving of the vehicle. :D
  • tlyoungbtlyoungb Member Posts: 3
    Hi, :)
    Just wondering if anyone has had this problem. Really strange. I have a 2003 Aztek with 38K on it. Well I pull up to the gas station and put in 10 gallons of gas. Then I take off over to a friends house to deliver a computer. Ok I pull into the drive and do the normal stuff like parking brake and put in park, and turn the car off. Walk in the house for like 10 mins. tops. Get back in the car and start home. Ok so not even 5 mins into the drive, I get to the stop sign, and ding ding the Low fuel light is on, and I look at the gas gage, and the needle is on empty. I say :surprise: "Noway man I just put 10 gallons in here."

    Well I am driving down the road then get to a stop light. Then I look at the gas gage and the needle just moves really fast from Empty to Full, but thing is I know it is not full it only has 10 gallons of fuel. Well when I pull away from the stop light and drive down the road a ways "DING DING" there is it again. Now the needle is sitting on Empty. This happens several times.

    So I pull in the drive turn it off, and then just turn the key on and now it is normal. Well I let it sit. I ride my motorcycle all the time. So this morning I get in it and now the Service Engine Light is lite up. I am thinking it is related to the gas gage problem I don't know. Anyone have any ideas? :confuse:

    Thanks,
    tlyoungb
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Haven't had the problem, but heres a couple thoughts. If you gauge needle was always full or empty, I think the sending unit would be suspect, but since your needle is dancing between full and empty, I think it is likely an electrical issue. I have heard there is a connector near the gas tank there may allow water intrusion and/or there could be some corrosion there.
    For the SES light, many many times it is do to bad seal on gas cap either loose/crooked or the actual seal is bad. The evap system is checked every time vehicle is started and I know it may take several cyles of strating and shut-off to make light go out when problem is corrected, but I don't know if it takes several cyles to get light to come on.
  • tlyoungbtlyoungb Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Ray80,

    I will take a look at it and see what I can find. The connector near the fuel tank. It is hard to find? or is it in plain site? Do you know?

    Thanks,

    tlyoungb
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    I don't really know where it is, but would suspect it is towards the front, perhaps on the side. I also don't know if its a 'HOT' connection, might want to remove negative battery cable before messing with it.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Another thought or two on the rubbibg noise. If it happens only when vehicle is first started and moved, if may have something to do with ABS system and may not be a real problem. I have also heard that sometimes the fender liner becomes loose and tire may rub on it when turning.
  • novascotianovascotia Member Posts: 9
    Like most owners, my rear hatch has had problems in the past opening the first try, expecially in cold weather.

    But now, the rear hatch won't open at all either by the key, inside switch or via remote. I turn the key and nothing clicks/engages at all. Almost like it was jammed shut the last time around.

    Any thoughts?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    It sounds like this may be a BCM related issue, try removing BCM fuse (fuse #28 in underhood fuse box) for a count of ten (or as a more technical person has suggested, unhook the negative cable on battery for a bit) and see if that resolves it, at least for a while.
  • novascotianovascotia Member Posts: 9
    Thanks. I'll try this weekend. Checked fuse #13 and that was okay.
  • novascotianovascotia Member Posts: 9
    Wow! It worked! Thanks so much for the advice.

    "at least for a while" --- does this mean that I'll have to eventually replace the BCM unit?
  • upslimsupslims Member Posts: 3
    I usually order the Chiltons or Haynes shop manual for every car I own. I dont believe one exists for the Aztek? Has anyone seen one. Would a shop manual for another model come close? Please help if possible.
  • buttahbuttah Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Aztek makes that same grinding motion when braking at very slow speeds. We have a GMC truck that does the same thing. This happens only when braking.
    Could this be part of the GMC recall that came out last year for ABS? I haven't seen anything about Azteks in this recall but I am going to contact the dealer.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Maybe. I can only remember one owner that eventually got tired of doing reset thing and got BCM replaced because of it.
  • tlyoungbtlyoungb Member Posts: 3
    I guess everyone that has a 2003 Aztek got a notice in the mail about this wheel hum, growl, or groan come from the front wheel at speed fo 10 mph or higher. The ABS telltale lamp in the instrument panel may also illuminate. This may be caused by premature wear of the front wheel bearings.

    Guess what. This is exactly what mine is doing, and the ABS light is on also. Guess I better get it over there for the recall notice.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Actually I don't believe its a recall, but special policy bulletin for 2002-2004 Teks, and adds coverage for wheel bearing failure for 5 years/60000 miles from when vehicle was placed into service (regardless of ownership), not that its makes any differance as lomg as its covered ;)
  • buttahbuttah Member Posts: 2
    Ours goes into the shop tomorrow for the abs issue. Our dealership told us that the sensors on the ABS get gunked up and they don't read right-- therefore getting the grinding grabbing sensation at slow speeds. They will be replaced tomorrow. I sure hope it ends it all.

    Next week it goes back for the rear bushings and links (they are back ordered) Imagine that! They must be a hot comodity.

    I am glad that we aren't paying for it. It was a condition of the sale that we made with the dealer that all of these things be fixed.

    So far they have been true to their word.
  • jennwndrlndjennwndrlnd Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Aztek that has almost 56000 miles. We didn't have any problems with it until the 3 year 36000 warranty ran out, but thankfully we had bought the 5 year insurance (which goes out in February). I am scrambling to get the things fixed on it that need repaired, but it seems that everytime I go into the shop in less than a week something else breaks. At a $125 co-pay it's getting ridiculous. Our rear hatch would only work if you pushed the button (inside the vehicle or the hand held) then pushed the hatch then pushed the button again. Sometimes even then you had to re-push the button numerous times. We paid to have that fixed with other things but it still doesn't work. Then our a/c went out. I'm still trying to figure out what exactly they did since first I heard it was the compressor then they said it was something else, then something else, you get the idea. That was at the beginning of the Summer. When we got it back from that repair the #1 level of a/c-heat wouldn't work at all, then #2 went out leaving us with 3-5. Back it went. We paid and extra $35 for them to replace the bulb in the floor shifter, a week later the console panel (with P,N,D, etc...) fell to the side. The a/c is still working but when we turn it off white smoke blows out of the vents which concerns me. They've told me that because it doesn't do it all the time they can't fix anything, they ran some tests but nothing came up as needing fixed. I just want to make sure that by Feb. it's in the best shape it can be. Does anyone have any suggestions? I knew we were in trouble when the service manager said that perhaps we should think about trading in! Considering it'll be paid off in the Spring I hate to do that. Oh yeah...the windshield wipers only ran on slow and high for a month and wouldn't shut off until you shut the truck off for a while. Suddenly they stopped doing that- again that is something they say they can't fix since it isn't doing it anymore.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    For the hatch not releasing properly, there are 2 rubber stoppers on underside of hatch that may be adjusted to help with problem. Try turning them out a bit (counter-clockwise) may be a half turn at a time (and equal on both sides to maintain alignment). Don't go to far or hatch ajar light may come on, and this won't help in winter when it can be a bit more sticky . Usually the A/C condensor is cause of A/C failure. The white smoke (mist) I believe may be due to A/C component that takes moisture out of air being off (after your turn off A/C) and moist air flowing over still cool parts of system. This would be more prevelant on humid days, and should go away after a bit. Hope this helps a bit.
  • guilfoilguilfoil Member Posts: 1
    I fixed this problem by simply disconnecting the negative terminal, counting to 15 and reconnecting it.
  • shadwbabyshadwbaby Member Posts: 1
    I've noticed a few issues that manage to come and go, and wondered if anyone else had similar problems.

    I have an '03 Aztek with 43k on it now. Drive it everywhere and it's been an awesome car.

    The SES light is again on, I've had it serviced twice before, and both times was the result of the Evap system, although they never find a problem and reset the light. I think it's related to condensation, or heavy rains. First time was after it rained hard for a few days, and now that there is more dew in the mornings and such.

    Secondly....another problem that I've had fixed twice, the most recent being about 10k miles ago, maybe 6 months ago at most. The passenger side headlight goes out. The first time, I figured it was just burnt out. The second time I thought something was up....

    Now, it went out, and after being out for a week or so, came back on for a few days, now is out again.

    Any ideas?

    -Thanks
  • todd72472todd72472 Member Posts: 3
    we have a 03 aztek love it but a few months ago the awd disable light begin coming on any ideas?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    The most common issue with SES light is problem with fuel cap, not tight enough (should tighten to 3 clicks), or mis-aligned, or tether caught underneath (not allowing tight seal), or possibly seal is bad. In above cases it usually happens shortly after re-fueling and will shut off itself after problem is corrected (after several start/shut off cyles). For the headlight problem, if you have replaced bulb there may be some corrosion in connector or it may not be properly seated to allow good connection. Hope this helps
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Could be a few things. One is a tire being really low on air pressure. Another could be trouble with wheel bearing assembly as mentioned in 'care and maintance' forum (you should be hearing some growl/humming/squealing noise if that is it). Another possible thing is some corrosion in a connector under the vehicle that could have water intrusion (connector is in wiring that goes through floor under drivers seat and towards rear. You should be able to see it looking under from driver side, right about where front and rear doors are.) good luck
  • todd72472todd72472 Member Posts: 3
    ok Ray i look at the connectors under the car all 3 was full of water i dumped the water but the light remains on,i didnt get a chance to work on the connector but i will try to.
  • lsemen01lsemen01 Member Posts: 2
    What isn't wrong with my 2002 Aztek? As of now it has approx. 131,000 miles. It is driven everywhere.

    #1 wrong with it...a few weeks ago the security light came on...came here and checked that out...began pulling fuse 28...ok that worked for a day or so.

    #2 while driving the lights, radio, and dash lights go out...its dark...that's dangerous!!

    #3 again security comes on...car won't even start!! YIKES STUCK AT THE MALL AGAIN. Pull fuse 28 again

    #4 Doors won't unlock and neither will hatch...pull fuse 28 again.

    #5 maybe the 50th time I have pulled fuse 28...it isn't workin for me anymore :(

    I take it in to have the codes ran to see what is wrong with it...NOTHING. I have the guy get into the vehicle to see that I am not crazy! Service Vehicle Soon light pops up..."Hmmm...I don't know what to tell you mam!" You don't want to know what I wanted to tell him. LOL Figure I would come here because someone here knows what they are talking about...they knew about fuse 28...All along I am laughing, trying to keep good humor here, but terribly serious at the same time...NEED HELP PLEASE :)
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Nice batch of stuff you have going on. To me it sounds like it could be BCM related, but before you go there, are you running with a 4 year old battery? The electronics are pretty sensitive to weak or flucuating voltage. A weak battery/charging system may be the cause. Also I would check for any corrosion on battery cables and perhaps the cable that goes from battery to underhood fuse box. I believe I posted something in problems and solutions (think it was there) on cleaning up connections to BCM and cabin fuse box.
  • lsemen01lsemen01 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response. I have had the battery cables all checked, and all looks great. The battery is the same battery that was in the vehicle when we purchased it about two years ago. That was our next elimination... We have been trying to eliminate the possibilities. We will try that and let you know. THANKS :)
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    As an add-on if your are going to have battery checked, see if they (who ever that might be) can do an active load check on charging system. I haven't had it done, but I believe it sorta monitors whats going on while vehicle is running and may point out any waver in voltage which could lad to troubles. Good luck
  • bruce333bruce333 Member Posts: 1
    Just an FYI, because I had trouble resetting the oil light. The key has to be on for a full 5 seconds or the light will not reset. So, key on, depress accel. pedal fully 3 times, turn key off after 5 seconds total time.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Take a look around the "No Start" Problems discussion while waiting for responses in here.
  • david815david815 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aztec and the dash lights come on fine during the daylight hours. Once it starts to get dark all the dash lights goes off, I still can see my speed by the hud, but that is the only lights on in the interior. Any help is appreciated.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    First guess would be someone messed with the dimmer switch
  • rob_aztekarob_azteka Member Posts: 4
    I've been having the same problem with my lights, dashboard lights, and radio going off usually at night while I'm driving... What's code 28??
  • mightymartgrrlmightymartgrrl Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 2002 Aztek, and Im in love with it. Unfortunetly the previous owners kept the cooler. And i cant find one for less than 60 dollars. any suggestions?
  • lostcause245lostcause245 Member Posts: 21
    You could try E-Bay, thats where I got mine. Theres usually at least one available. By the way, I got mine there for $39.
  • lostcause245lostcause245 Member Posts: 21
    I tried and failed to find a shop manual for the Aztek as well. I did purchase a manual on the Montana/Venture/Silhouette minivans, which is what the Aztek is based off of. Its identical mechanically, and about as close as you are going to come at this time.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Not sure about the dash/radio lights but I have seen headlights flicker at night once in a while. When I do see it I just turn lights on with switch (as opposed to auto setting) and haven't noticed any flicker. I think the switch may take BCM out of the equation when I do that.
  • lizzie77lizzie77 Member Posts: 3
    Do you have a sunroof? There are little holes that get plugged up and a professional needs to gently blow them out. Water may leaking through the sunroof. That is what a dealer told me only after I noticed it.
  • lizzie77lizzie77 Member Posts: 3
    I received a letter from Pontiac that if "hear a hum, growl, or groan coming from the front wheels an speeds of 10mph or higher" there is premature wear on the front wheel bearings and they will replace with no charge provided the car is 5 years/60,000. If you had already replaced them, you can send in for reimbursement. Letter dated Sept 2006. Call Pontiac Assistance Center if this applies...1800 620-7668
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles