Pontiac Aztek

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  • apassarettiapassaretti Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for you input. This is probably gonna be a stupid question but what/where is the BCM? I called the dealership and told them they need to fix it today and they are coming for it in a lil bit. So hopefully this will be taken care of SOON!

    Thanks again!

    Ang
  • apassarettiapassaretti Member Posts: 4
    Dealership just called..The BCM needs replaced, which is also the reason my lift gate won't open!
    Thanks for your help!

    Ang
  • jbuswelljbuswell Member Posts: 16
    You are kidding right? Perhaps you can explain this then, now don't get me wrong I love my 2001 Aztek, I've had it since April 2001, only owner, my wife is the only other driver, it has 69,000 miles on it. Now I've had only two dealerships take care of it, both GM/Pontiac dealerships, using GM's recommended maintenance schedule, never missed or over ran an oil change more than a couple of miles. Guess what..

    28,000 - Aztek wouldn't reverse, transmission replaced
    69,000 - Aztek chugs in reverse, EXACT SAME DAMN transmission problem

    Yes sir, I'm looking at my THIRD GM transmission in 70,000 miles. I've dropped so much money into this vehicle that at this point it doesn't make any sense for me not to fix it, or to trade it in. At 55,000 miles, injector coils had to be replaced, prior to that at 37,000 miles (just out of warranty) $900 a/c repair, prior to that, at least 5 computer replacements in warranty, numerous other minor recall and other repairs.

    Its a great car, pity the quality has turned it into a lemon!!! :lemon:
  • jbuswelljbuswell Member Posts: 16
    Hello,

    I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek with 69,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced at 28,000 miles, and now the exact same problem is occuring again at 69,000 miles. So far I have found 8 other 2001 Pontiac Aztek owners with the exact same problem, and I've read at least 4 or 5 other people on-line with these problems, some scarey enough within a few miles of both of my transmission problems.

    If you have/had a tranmission problem with a 2001 Pontiac Aztek (or later model) please contact me and reply to this post.

    Both transmission problems had the same symptoms:

    a) Aztek fails to reverse or "chugs / shakes" while in reverse
    b) Aztek lacks power on hills
    c) Aztek goes from 45 mph to 60 mph in about a minute (floored)
    d) With the air off, radio off you'll hear a "wind / howling" noise
    from the engine.

    You know you have this problem after the dealership / mechanic takes the transmission pan off it'll be full of metal shavings. If its not, and there is no noise, have the mechanics run the car with it propped up in the air, after a few minutes it should be apparant.

    Some things to catch it early:

    a) You notice a loss of power (might be slight) while travelling 50mph or faster.

    b) Aztek doesn't shift smoothly between Park and Reverse

    Right now, I'm looking at a third transmission for this 2001 Aztek of mine. I don't trust GM, they seem to be aware there is a problem, they tried to "talk" the dealership into paying for most or doing the repair for free (at the dealerships cost). The dealership, who acknowledge that I've taken it in there every 3000 miles, done all the maintenance on time, and its only seen GM dealers are pushing this as a GM problem.

    So to get to the bottom of it, I'm taking the thing to a local transmission expert to see if they can figure out whats wrong with the transmission, if it can be repaired or rebuilt, so hopefully I'll get to the bottom of this soon enough.

    Thanks
  • sarahbug7192sarahbug7192 Member Posts: 1
    Both above warnings come on and vehicle has humming noise that seems to be coming from under vehicle. Also note at times vehicle seems to just lurch. Doesn't seem to want to accelerate.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    The one thing these have in common is wheel sensor, if one is bad it could cause this. Perhaps in similar vein is the humm which likely could be wheel bearing (same assembly where sensor goes). This is assuming you don't have spare on, which could also turn the lights on
  • robroy911robroy911 Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I purchased a used 2001 Aztec in may. It ran perfectly until yesterday and it's now having the exact issues you stated. It has a solid check engine light when you are stopped, however when you start going again the check engine light starts flashing. I am really glad that we bought an extended warranty on this vehicle.

    Robert
  • ted17ted17 Member Posts: 3
    My wife and I purchased our 2001 Aztec last July with 30000 miles on it. It has all the bells and whistles including AWD. the car now has 52000 miles and we have just put on the third set of 4 tires, replaced the brakes and rotors, replaced the right rear knuckle and now the differential is whining. The dealership and GM all say these are maintenance issues and not to worry about the rear end noise as the estimate is $7000.00 to replace as there is no fix for the versatrak diff. The dealership suggested I try a synthetic oil in the diff. but I have been unable to find one that is compatible with the versatrak system. Any ideas out there>
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    First off, I'd kind of wonder about dealers suggestion of using differeant kind of fluid. I heard of one case elswhere about a owner (Buick version) who was looking at replacing everything versatrak-wise due to someone putting wrong fluid in. Are you/they sure it is differential whining and not a wheel bearing issue? If you are sure, I could suggest doing complete versatrak fluid change if it hasn't been done yet. I know it solved what was discribed as a groan for someone else, and at about the same milage as yours. Does the whine happen anytime vehicle is in motion, change in sound with speed or when turning?
  • ted17ted17 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the reply. The whine is most noticable between 55 and 65 mph and turns don't affect it at all. The GM dealer confirms it is the diff. making the noise
  • ted17ted17 Member Posts: 3
    posted this on the care board but hope to get a few more responses on this one. My 2001 AWD aztec is whining from the differential at between 50 and 65mph. Dealer has quoted me $7000.00 to replace as he says there is no fix. He suggested I might try a synthetic oil but I have been unable to find a replacment for the Versatrak fluid by GM. Any suggestions?
  • chitekchitek Member Posts: 1
    Is there a hardware issue with liftgates. I had same problem after brake work on front and rear wheels. I assumed that liftgate problem was weather related as it is in the teens and 20's here until i saw this post dated Sept 05. :(
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    If you don't hear anything when hitting either the cabin button or key fob, then it is most likely BCM related. If you do hear it trying to open, but it doesn't, it is the cold weather thing most of us have just learned to live with, there is no real good fix for it other then to lift on the gate while hitting button on fob. Hope this helps.
  • cherylbarbercherylbarber Member Posts: 4
    I am an 2001 owner and had to replace the BCM 4 times due to electrical problems with liftgate/windows/defroster and most recently heat! This last BCM took care of the heat, but everything else still periodically fails when the dreaded "Service Vehicle Soon " light is on. Is there anyone that has had this problem PERMENANTLY fixed? I fortunately still have an extended warranty but it will soon by up!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    4 BCMs? I think I'd ask them to try to go beyond the first thing on the list of possible things to do (replace BCM). Somewhere here on Edmunds (Buick version maybe) is something that states 70% of BCM's returned to the manufacturer are ok. Given the vehicles current age, have you ever replaced the battery? Usually it would be a no-start problem, but I believe the electronics are pretty sensitive to low voltage situation and could cause lights to illuminate or various other failures. Just a thought
  • drifterchicdrifterchic Member Posts: 4
    I've had my 2001 Aztek for almost a year now and I do love it. Only problem so far was the AC crack and the dealership took care of that luckily. Now though, it seems it doesn't want to shut off completely. The enginge shuts off just fine, but unless I lightly tap over the ignition I can't get it to turn all the way forward so I can pull the key out. Removing the key is not the problem, it's getting it to fully shut off that is. Couple months ago I had what I assumed was just a dead battery, it was near the end of it's fourth year so I thought nothing of it. Now that I think about it, when I went to start the 'Tek it hadn't been fully shut off. what's the problem? Is it just that I need a new ignition switch? Haven't called a mechanic yet, hoping to put it off until after Christmas.

    As a side note, my driver's side curtain impact bag went off when I shut the door the other day..now it was cold (in the negative teens) but there was no impact! Calling Pontiac to figure out what to do about this but any info in the meantime would be appreciated.

    :confuse:
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Hhmm Are you saying key/ignition switch goes to off position but not lock (or whatever that position is called) unless you mess with it? If so I would expect it could be either the key or switch itself. Do you have another key and does it work the same? (have no ideas on the impact bag)
  • drifterchicdrifterchic Member Posts: 4
    That is exactly what it does. It won't allow you to turn it all the way forward in order to release the key (don't know what that position is called either). Unfortunately I do not have another key, been meaning to get a spare made but that can't be done here in town (small town, no locksmith) and the dealership only had one when I bought it. Was thinking ignition switch myself, but I'm no mechanic.
  • mikesimbomikesimbo Member Posts: 7
    If you hear nothing when you push the trunk release button, you should also check the connector beneath the car (near spare tire) that transmits the signal to open the trunk. If it's disconnected/loose, your trunk will not open and you won't even hear the click. I'd check this before going to the dealership to replace the BCM.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Tough call on what to do. The Key has to be the correct one and has to be programmed to work with your particular Tek (security system does some magic with key to work, otherwise it won't start ). Getting a replacement might mean trip to Pontiac (or at least GM) dealer and they would have to figure it out by VIN I think. That would run about $25 if I remember correctly (thats just the key, not fob), then it would have to be 'programmed' and would be another charge by dealer ( I managed to do mine myself ). If its the cylinder itself it might run into quite a few more bucks. perhaps you could try getting some graphite lubricant made for locks to see if it frees it up a bit, but I don't know if thats recemmended or wise, and it most likely fail later.
  • drifterchicdrifterchic Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Ray. The key stuff I knew, which is another reason it's been put off, hassle and all. Guess I'll just make a trip to the mechanic and hope the damage isn't too high.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Ouch, I was looking elsewhere and found someone who had to replace key cylinder $300 :cry:
  • drifterchicdrifterchic Member Posts: 4
    Well at this point the 'Tek is grounded. It made it's final trip to the grocery store and simply would not shut off when I got home no matter what I tried (or for how long). Guess it's made the decision for me, no more time to research just gonna hafta get it looked at.
  • nikazteknikaztek Member Posts: 1
    I also have a yellow aztek and have already replaced a bearing,got the rotors turned, replaced a rad(ruptured tranny cooler)which ultimately led to the replacement of the transmission all after 65000km's. After approximately $5000 later(no extended warranty) GM Canada would only give $1000 towards a new transmission. The vehicle is only 2.5 years old. The rotor and bearing got repaired under warranty however the rest was left up to me. This shouldn't happen to a 2 year old vehicle but the dealer said because I didn't get oil changes at their dealership plus the fact I did not buy From his lot(bought used)he felt GM was not responsible for these huge repairs. If the aztek was say 5-7 years old then I would understand but not after 2.5 years. Dealing with GM is total crap. Basicly they were telling me they couldn't guarantee GM products after the warranty period (only 5000km over) and not to buy GM vehicles uesd unless off a GM lot. This total bullcrap and I will never buy GM again. No wonder they are thinking of closing some GM plants in Canada. :mad: :lemon:
  • cherylbarbercherylbarber Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the idea, Ray. I think the battery was replaced once, but honestly, I would have to check. This has been a problem from Day One. I am lucky the dealer works with me and the warranty, but surely there is a permenant solution and I feel it is in an electrical connection. I am just tired of dealing with it.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    One other thought that may help. Another person recently had problem and found real fault to be bad connection (corrosion) on battery cable that goes to underhood fuse box. All that person did was clean it up and lights went away.
  • mikesimbomikesimbo Member Posts: 7
    My 2002 Aztek AWD was fine until last month. Then the Speedometer went crazy (which of course affected shifting), the BCM went bad, and the car was undrivable. I poked around myself for the easy fixes, and consulted my service manual to help with diagnosing problems. After fiddling for a month, I finally took it to the dealer and they confirmed that the transmission was shot, and that the BCM needed to be replaced. The dealer (whom I trust) also needed to replace the body harness. I am disappointed, and out a lot of cash. Merry Christmas.

    Looking back, here are my lessons learned:
    1. Get the warranty. If you can't get full coverage, atleast extend the powertrain coverage. I gambled and lost.
    2. Watch out for the puddles. I never had any water enter the car, but the body harness was definitely exposed to moisture. I took mine thru a major ditch at the beach, and I'm pretty sure this is how the water got there.
    3. If you tow anything, service the transmission often (20k-30k). I have no official proof, but I suspect this was a contributor to the transmission failure. What's funny is that I had just made the appointment to service the transmission when the tranny went.

    When this car worked it was functional and a good ride. I do not believe I abused this car, and all service checks and maintenance were up to date when it failed. I'm getting the car fixed, and plan on using this car to commute to the commuter train lot 2 miles each way. I have owned Hondas, Subarus, and an Acura, and never had any problems even close to this with my cars (and I am sure that I treated them much worse). This is my own experience, and for me that's enough. Sorry, but this will be the last GM product I will buy.
  • mikesimbomikesimbo Member Posts: 7
    One more thing, my car died at 62k miles.
  • grasleygrasley Member Posts: 1
    Check to see if the power windows work. If not, check the fuse on the passenger side fusebox. Fuse #13, I think. Mine works loose all the time and the tailgate won't work with key or button or remote. Usually the big yellow light also comes on. I bend the tangs and replace it and it works for several months. Someday I'll fix it.
  • clintonjohnclintonjohn Member Posts: 99
    i found if you press the button for the liftgate twice, that sometimes works. nonetheless, it's irritating that this has to occur.
  • cherylbarbercherylbarber Member Posts: 4
    Luckily, the 4th BCM is currently working but IF it goes in again...I will have them check for corrosion. Who would have thought of that! Any other information you get on this...please pass it on!
  • cherylbarbercherylbarber Member Posts: 4
    I have had similar problems and it was the BCM but it helped when I adjusted the 2 rubber-coated screws in the liftgate. Sometimes they get too tight and need loosening so just turn them counter-clockwise a quarter turn and it may help if it isn't the BCM.
  • qstick777qstick777 Member Posts: 7
    Okay, so I have an opportunity to buy a 2003 AWD with less than 25k miles. I'm not really sure if this is something that I should do. It seems that a lot of people are having major problems with these things.

    How much should I pay for 1 of these things? Edmunds TMV would seem that my offer is a good deal, but I'm also seeing people that have bought 2005s for around 15k.

    I think I would definately want to get an extended warranty from warrantydirect.com, but that would set me back another $2500 (with $0 deduct and the added emissions protection).

    That being said, I can still get a better deal on one of these than an older Odyessy. Would I be better off looking into a Venture or Caravan? I just need something bigger than a car, and the AWD aspect makes the Aztek appealing.

    Is this car something to consider, or should I run away?
  • nannynikkinannynikki Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 2003 Aztek this week!! (YA!) Here's my delima - I purchased the tent package for it on ebay (a new one) But - when I received it, there were no instructions!! I tried to put it on without them but - I can't figure it out and I'm afraid I'll tear it up. I've searched the internet high and low and can't even find a place to purchase the instructions. Any suggestions?
    I would be ever so grateful!!!!
  • nannynikkinannynikki Member Posts: 2
    The 2003 Aztek is awesome. Drive it - that will decide it for you.. ;)
  • armysgt93carmysgt93c Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek and a year ago i replaced the battery every since i have been having problems.
    1. the trunk won't open all the time only when it wants to.
    2. The gas gauge goes to full then to empty all the time.
    3. The temp guage goes to hot and stays there until i shut the car off. now the temp guage does not work at all
    4. If it is below 40 Degrees none of the inside lights, radio, windows, seats work until the temp warms up to above 40
    5. The headlights wont come on until you put it into gear until then they will come on for a sec and go back off.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    nannynikki, Feel free to send me an e-mail, I can point out a couple places to find the instructions, including pics ( not great, but worth something maybe). Hopefully the tent you got includes awning? If not, you would be wise to use a little caution as the awningless tent doesn't have as much leeway (that one came with pre-spoiler Teks)
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    armysgt93c, nice variety of troubles you have, each could have their own solution. I shared this with someone more knowledgable , and there is one thing in common that may effect them all, the BCM. Before you go to dealer to check on that, heres a couple things you could try: Sort of reset for BCM, remove negative cable on battery for about 30 secs to see if things change at all. Also check for any corrosion on cables (both ends), the electronics can be pretty sensitive to improper voltage. Did you ever jump start it before symptoms started? That could have done something
  • armysgt93carmysgt93c Member Posts: 4
    yes i did jump it off once but everything worked fine until i changed the battery I will try the BCM reset in the morning and post to let you know if that worked thanks for the quick response.
  • relmrelm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Aztek with a rear upper liftgate problem. The release motors on the lift gate have checked out good and the fuse is good. Does anyone know what's in between and any ideas of a problem I could look for? Doesn't work at the key on the lower door or at the switch in the dash. The key fob has been lost.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    It sounds like this may be a BCM related issue, try removing BCM fuse (fuse #28 in underhood fuse box) for a count of ten (or as a more technical person has suggested, unhook the negative cable on battery for a bit) and see if that resolves it, at least for a while.
  • relmrelm Member Posts: 2
    Thanks I'll try that.
  • kelbellekelbelle Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this sort of forum. Nannynikki, did you find what you were looking for. If now I can scan my directions and e-mail them to you or I can fax them to you.
  • mertiermertier Member Posts: 2
    Yesterday I had my oil changed and the oil technition could not reset the "change engine oil light" The book said to turn the ignition on and then push the gas peddal 3 times and then turn ignition off. He did that alot of times and the light still came on. I drove home and turned the car off and then about an hour later when I went out to start the car again, I turned the key and just heard a click. The lights all come on "including security and change engine oil" but the car won't turn over or start. Also I cannot turn the key all the way back towards me and it wouldn't come out of the ignition. I had the car towed back to carmax where I bought it and they replaced the key cylinder but the car still will not start and carmax says it's a mystery. They don't know what is wrong with it. Has anyone had this happen? How do you fix it?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    First guess would be battery/cable problem. The electrical systems are very sensitive to low voltage and can cause various symptoms including no start and key getting stuck, been there with ours.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Try the main Pontiac Aztek discussion.

    tidester, host
  • lostcause245lostcause245 Member Posts: 21
    I have read some of the messages that have been posted and consider myself rather lucky. I have a 2001 GT and have not had any of the major problems that have been discussed in this forum, except for the AC condenser. I do have one problem that I have not seen yet. As I approached 100,000 miles, my service vehicle soon light has appeared. The oddity of this is that it only comes on during daylight hours, and then the headlights automatically come on. Any input on what this could be would be helpful.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    SVS light may come on when light is out. In this case seeing as how it happens during daylight, I would guess one (or both) of the high beams is out (they are used as DRL's)
  • lostcause245lostcause245 Member Posts: 21
    That was the case. Makes sense now that I think about it. 102000+ and still running strong!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Always good when those warning lights turn out to be something simple to correct ;)
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