Pontiac Aztek

tcb1

The BCM is easy to replace once you get to it but you still have to have it programmed by the dealer. The part is 250 and the programming in my case is 75. It appears to be a common problem.

clintonjohn

after i bought the aztek in december '04, i went on pontiac's website and registered the car. there was a section where you could enter comments. i commented on the demise of the aztek. a pontiac rep emailed me back and said that it wasn't being discontinued at this point. who knows if she was just trying to make me feel good or what. it was my understanding, barring pontiac's response, that the aztek was ending after '05. too bad cause my wife already wants another one. given gas prices, i want a diesel jeep liberty.

y2jasmine

Hi Ray, thanks so much for the help. I don't imagine I'll be doing that solution though. I talked to my husband about it and he says we can live with the burnt out bulbs. Too bad they don't make them easier to replace!

y2jasmine

Sorry guys and gals, we officially received a letter in the mail from our GM dealer saying that it was being discontinued. The last year of production is 2005. I live in Ontario, Canada so I don't know if that makes a difference, but I don't think it would.

bsquared

I apologize if you already have received an answer. Your problem is that the solenoid valve that engages the read differential is not working. I had a similar problem last year after driving in a lot of Cleveland weather. The dealer said I needed a new valve but couldn't replace it because he didn't have it in stock. That weekend I crawled under the car and found that the connector was corroded. I believe most of the electrical problems are related to these connectors corroding. My 03 Aztek currently has 78K and climbing. I'm a salesman.
They did replace the valve and the fluid and that took care of the problem. The trans fluid was almost eighty bucks.
I hope that helps.

stever

GM says it won't phase out a brand (Detroit News)

Steve, Host

myrose

My purchase of the 2002 Aztek (brand new) marks the end of my experience with Pontiac, period. I have had three since 1997 (two Grand Am's and this Aztek). Each time I hit 50,000 miles, the vehicles started falling apart. Needless to say, when I purchased this last one, (my once beloved yellow AZTEK) I could not afford to get the "extended warranty" and it has been kicking my financial "butt." I have had to do major repairs in the total amount of more than $2000.00 since December of 2004. I would love to have a car that I could drive AFTER I finish paying for it! It looks like I can't get that with GM

myrose

I wish that I could agree with this statement. My Aztek has been a heartbreak in terms of repair..and I have kept it serviced!

myrose

I have a 2002 Yellow Aztek. It's so ugly that it's beautiful to me. When I first purchased it, I stopped a lot of drivers. I almost caused a neighbor to get plowed over by a truck because she stopped in the middle of the road admiring it. I have had problems with my Aztek ever since December of 2004. I had 55,000 miles on it. The catalytic converter went out. Then they had to replace the head gasket. Now my thermostat is gone and I need a tune-up (to the tune of more than $700.00. The manual states that I should not need a tune up until 100,000 miles. I have lost faith in my car also. This is a bummer. I've lost faith in GM products as a whole given my experiences since 1997.

montanafan

Courious as to the $2,000 figure you say it cost you since December. If you "need" a $700 tune up that indicated that it hasn't been done, so it isn't in the $2,000. And the Cat converter warranty is either 8 years/ 80,000 miles or 7 years / 70,000 miles depending where you live, so it shouldn't be in the $2,000. SO that leaves $2,000 for head gaskets? That seams expensive to me for that repair. And since the head gaaskets usually are done for leaking and the heads are usually checked and cleaned, why were new plugs not done then? Since they are the main part of a "tune-up". Get a second price on the thermostat replacement, and whatever is in the :tune-up" they quoted you.

myrose

My radio display went out also in November of 2004. That was repaired in December. They did the head gasket thing in December 2004 as well. The dealership made me believe that the catalytic converter was out of warranty and they were repairing it "free" as a service to me. That was done in December. I read my manual and found out differently later on. I was including the cost of this "tune up" in the total of $2000.00.

Immediately I had trouble with the plugs...after the head gasket deal...as soon as I picked up the car on December 30th...and they replaced one wire as a result! I am finished with the dealership in terms of repair.

texas_ford_guy

why wouldn't they do away with the aztec?....the problem isnt durability, ugliness, or utility. the problem is the same one that eventually kills all models. nobody buys these freeking things. that would be why you think you got a great deal on yours.

russla

to be simplistic, there are three types of car buyers
Those that by for image alone
Those that by for function
and those that try to balance the two.

I think that Pontiac has establish that there are more people concerned about image, when spending 15-25k than pure practicality, and they know they didn't get the image right with the aztek to attract lots of buyers with it.

I think they got many of the qualities right,
bigger than a car or crossover wagon, has awd for ski trips, is not too big/heavy like an SUV

but it appears people don't buy rigs in between minivans and suvs, they have to be minivans, or look like SUVs' (x5's,hilanders,endeavors,rx300s,pilots) most of which are car/minivan platforms with no low range
even the buick looks more like a traditional SUV
(maybe the AWD jeep cherokee could be in this category now)

I don't know how well the chrysler pacificas are doing, they may be struggling too and they're really just bigger station wagons.

myrose

I suspect that my problem began with the leaking freon ...back in November of 2004. The compressor was replaced in December as a result of that leak. THEN, I had problems with the head gasket and they repaired that. Then the car started sounding like an airplane, and they realized that they had overcharged the compressor. Immediately, I had problems with the car skipping. I took it back and they replaced one wire and plug (that was at the end of December 2004). Five days later, the car started skipping while I drove. I changed to 89 octane and that helped a little, but the problem was still there. This month they decided that I needed a tune up. To me, it looks like the problem started when they replaced the compressor. Is it possible that dealerships don't always know what they are doing in the car repair realm?

clintonjohn

I don't disagree with the idea that models die because people don't buy them. However, if the laws of supply and demand drive down the price while the vehicle is still available, how can it be argued that I didn't get a deal? Thanks to all the people who didn't buy an Aztek, I was able to afford a car with more features and room than I thought I could. If someone buys a highly sought after Honda where dealers can charge full sticker, is that a deal? I got something that will get me from A to B for 1/3 off sticker price. Yes, it's not the most attractive thing on the road, but it still is accomplishing the same job as the full sticker Honda. I'm willing to sacrifice visual appeal to save a few bucks. Also, who cares if the Aztek isn't around in a year? Federal law dictates that parts continue to be manufactured long after my car will be gone, so I'm not worried about that. I was concerned that the dealer had a vehicle now. If I was thinking of buying an Aztek in a year or two, then I might be more concerned.
By the way-I also have a Ford. However, I'm an Illinois Ford guy-hope you won't hold that against me:)

stever

Federal law dictates that parts continue to be manufactured long after my car will be gone

This comes up every now and then but no one ever comes up with a link to the law. I think it's an urban legend.

Steve, Host

clintonjohn

I could have sworn I read somewhere that car makers are required to have parts available for a certain number of years after the discontinuation of a model so that people aren't left stranded two years after the model ends. It could be urban legend-I found nothing on the net detailing any law. I did email general motors and they were kind enough to respond with the following:

"General Motor's commitment regarding parts availability on a vehicle that they
agreed to have emissions related parts available for 10 years. Other than this,
there is no guarantee of availability."

stever

Good message - I like it when people go to the source. The emissions stuff makes sense; I guess cats and other emissions stuff have a federal warranty for 80,000 miles or 8 years.

Steve, Host

danzigdan

I test drove a 2003 tonight for the first time and enjoyed it. However, I felt a funny rumbling or humming/vibration sensation that started at about 20 MPH. I thought it was probably worn tires, but I mentioned that I had heard that GM had a few problems with this sort of thing and that it could possibly be a wheel bearing. Anyway, they called me back a half-hour later and they are 95% sure it's the right-front wheel bearing!

This forum is great!!

danzigdan

Is that harness easy to see? I wonder if owners should look to see what theirs looks like. Can some sort of buffer be created to keep it from rubbing against the air box?

lilcarol

I'm curious to hear if anyone has done this as well. I agree that I think it would look better without the spoiler or if they must have it, move it elsewhere. I even tried to get a picture of the backend and put it in Photoshop and took out the spoiler. Still hard to tell, but I dont think it looks as "harsh". Aside from the spoiler I love it ... you do get used to it (spoiler) ... I just don't like the looks of it.

ray80

I'm kinda of wondering if it was wiring near air box, or the fuse/relay box. On one of ours, for whatever reason, a big bundle of wires had been improperly routed in front of, instead of in back off, the fuse/realy box and it was rubbing on belt ( I caught it in time)

danzigdan

An update. They ended up replacing the right front hub assembly on the Aztek I drove.

whatcity

We've had our 2001 Aztek for 3 weeks and it was running like a brand new car until a few days ago. Suddenly, the car wouldn't start and we would have to jump the battery. It would run fine all day and would start anytime it had been stopped at any point. The battery would mysteriously drain overnight and another boost was required the next day. On the first couple of attempts, it would just make a loud clicking sound; then it started sounding like it was trying to turn over; on some attempts it would start, then immediately die. We had it towed to a shop 5 days ago and they can't find what's wrong with it. Their diagnostics show no problem with the alternator, solenoid, starter system or battery. The battery dies on them overnight, too. I'm about to pull out a 55-gallon drum of whoop*ss on Pontiac for even creating this albatross.

ray80

Given the symptoms I would guess its either a questionable battery connection or the battery (despite the test) is a little less then it could be. I do knpw the Teks can be pretty senistive about battery power, if I let mine sit for 2 weeks or so without being started I have to be ready to jump start it. It does use quite a bit of power even with everything (seemingly off). I assume you don't have anything plugged in (like cell phone charger) that could cause problem?

unrequitedlove

Thanks Ray80 et al for your response to "Possessed". Need to get BCM replaced. Its gotten worse but I guess it seems correctable. I can replace it myself to save $$ but the guy who had the dealership replace three made me think shouldn't I have the dealership do it? Wouldn't their work be under warranty if it goes out that often?

Ray, you mentioned an "updated" BCM. Did you find anything, or is it just a question of replacement with the same?

Thanks in advance!

ray80

While you could physicly replace BCM, you couldn't program it, has to be dealer. With the updated BCM, if you don't have DIC you will lose the ability to personalize settings for things like doorlocks and interior lights. An interesting side-note on BCMs is that Motorola has stated something like 70% of them returned as defective have been found not to be (something I have sorta been thinking for a while). If your reasonably handy (and perhaps a little daring) you might want to inspect connections to BCM for any kind of corrosion or looseness, and maybe just re-seat those connections (DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST). Also always make sure you use cup-holder insert in holder with visible screw in bottom, or at least put something there that would absorb any spills or drips from sweaty cold drink (BCM is located right under there). This is getting wordy, but one other note: I know of one case where a mechanic looked beyond just replacing because it was what code said to do, who found a wire that the shifter had worn insulation off of, thereby creating a short (harness replaced in that case, and wire routed to not hit shifter) Good luck

texas_ford_guy

point taken. i think i may have come off sounding a bit harsh on this one. i think its because im still upset at the rediculous quality issues i had with my 87 fiero gt. i liken buying a pontiac to getting married. it's stupid to do. it never turns out good. and we'll all do it at least once.

clintonjohn

don't worry about coming across as harsh. i like the challenge of debate. unfortunately, discussing cars is probably like talking religion and politics-people get fired up. it's too bad about the fieros. i really liked the looks of them and thought pontiac shot themselves in the foot by first offering them with a four cylinder. i've only had the aztek since december and i hope i don't get soured to gm products because of it.

fantomb

HI,
First time poster here. I have an '02 Aztek with AWD.
I'm in Canada and I'm finding both the dealer and GM in general uncooperative especially considering the number of problems that I have had with the vehicle.
Among the problems that I have had:
- transmission needed to be replaced @ 70 000 kms (1 kilometer = 0.62 miles, or 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers so about 43, 500 miles)
- frequent appearance of the engine light (ten times in a year and a half)
- gasket problems
- a lot of noise which the dealer was finally able to tell me was a 'howling bearing' after about a year of driving it (yet they were so proud to have found the problem)
- replaced the transmission solenoid
- replaced the brakes 3 times in a year and a half (less than 80 000 kms or about 49,700 miles))
- sticky rear hatch that refuses to open once it leaves the dealership after repairs
-currently replacing the computer that is supposed to be controlling all the lights that are coming on

From what I have been told, my province has no lemon law. Any suggestions about what actions I should be taking? I have tried the dealer, who after keeping me waiting for 40 minutes, told me they had '2 minutes' to talk to me and GM who has told me that as long as they are fixing the vehicle they are doing their part in keeping up the warranty. Is it time to lawyer up or is there something I should do first? I am at the point where I no longer feel safe driving this vehicle any distance yet I need it to drive about an hour a day, on the highway, sometimes in the middle of nowhere. Isn't either GM or the dealer responsible for anything?

bigdan

i have found an aztek with 151,000 miles on it, 2003, how long do these last and would anyone recommend it?

elazteko

This very accurately describes my problem with the temperature gauge on my 2002 Aztek. One other thing, I live in a cold climate area and my heat doesn't come on until the car's temperature gauge takes a sharp fall from a critical temperature back into the normal zone. Does this activity correlate somehow with the thermostat in the engine? My theory is that the engine cycles the antifreeze in the engine block until it heats up enought to open the valve in the thermostat. With a faulty thermostat the antifreeze keeps cycling and getting hotter and hotter, until the heat becomes great enough to overcome the faulty thermostat where the flow of antifreeze can be cycled to the radiator, causing the sharp fall in the temperature gauge. I'm thinking of changing my thermostat to see if this corrects the problem. My car has about 48,000 miles on it.

stever

Hmmm, young in age but long in miles (but with that many, they must be highway miles).

Any car with that many miles is going to have issues; the question is whether the price is cheap enough to offset the repairs you know will come (my van is at 103,000 miles and I'm looking at some normal maintenance like the timing belt and plugs; but a few hundred here and there is still cheaper than car payments). So long as you aren't getting stranded too often.

I keep cars a long time (had one for 17 years) but none have had that much mileage yet. Try our appraisal tool too - I bet the mileage deduction is big (and probably needs to be bigger).

Steve, Host

akrainbird

Until recently, overall we have been mostly happy with our 2002 Atzek AWD. Now I begin to wonder....For the past 6-12 months we have been on our only GM dealer about the whinning/growling noise in slow speed turns. Of course they can never see/hear or find anything but I noticed lots of comments about this noise and the right front hub and wheel bearing! To top matters off, at just over three years old and not quite 16,000 miles we are having to also replace the tires (according to our dealer due to normal wear!). Naturally the warranty has expired.
It was fun and yes a different looking car, especially for quite a time when it was the only one in town. The lack of support from GM and their only dealer within 200 miles, plus the lack of long term quality of this vehicle and components , makes me doubt that I will even go with a GM product again.

timber

Our 2002 Aztek is in for repalcement of head gasket, catalytic converter, and wheel bearings, this all sounds like many other mesages. this vehicle has 25000 miles of mostly highway travel, we bought it used with 12000. the converter is under warranty but the repairs on head gasket are over $900. The dealership told us that it was our driving habits but viewing the other postings, I see we are not alone. Is ther any recourse for cost of a new head gasket or wheel bearings? they are not covering any cost since this was a used car.

mikesimbo

I have a 2002 Aztek with ~60k miles on it. Until last week, only problem I had was the sticking trunk latch. Anyways, last week my speedometer stopped working properly; it barely registers over 10 mph. The car will go faster than 10 mph, but the speedometer says otherwise. In addition, my car shifts from 1st to 2nd, then revs real high before it goes back to 1st. I'm pretty sure the speed sensor has something to do with it, and would like to find out if anyone can tell me where it is located so I can check/replace it. If that don't work, it's off to the transmission specialists unless anyone else has recommendations.

mikesimbo

I purchased the BF Goodrich Long Trail tires for my 2002 Aztek AWD. There are plenty of tire options & I thought about buying the Michelins, but I did not want to spend a fortune. Bought mine for $99/each at BJs, this includes mounting & disposal. Very pleased with these tires. Definitely an upgrade from the stock Firestone tires. Versus the Firestones, the Long Trails are more quiet, better in the snow & rain, and smoother on the highway. I've put about 10k miles on them, and I am pleased so far.

FYI - I do a lot of city & highway driving. I have taken these tires on the beach and onto the mountain roads covered with light snow.

ramex

RAy 80 >>>> Maybe you can clue me in >>> I am also a recent 2001 Aztek owner\lover .
What is BCM that you have mentioned on several occasions???????? I ask because I think I have a BCM problem >>>>back hatch \lift gate will not open with the key remote or the switch on the dash .
Sounds like if it is the BCM [?] that the $250.00+ 75.00 programing fee is not a bad deal . Went to my dealer he said my problem [ballpark figure] is a $500.00-600.00 repair job . Im supposed to take it in later this week then I started surfing & found the message board . So before I go back to the dealer>> Im open to any input

P.S. is that few drops of oil on my garage floor the much talked about head gasket problem . I just flipped 35,000miles No other Problems

ramex

OK ray80 I see in a lter post whatthe BCM is . So now my question is>> Where is it located ? Another post it was stated " If you can fianlly get to it >

Thanx Ramex I

ray80

For your hatch issue, I assume you don't hear ANY noise when you try the dash button or key fob? If so, it is likely a BCM thing, but there may be a work-around that may fix it (temperary maybe). Try removing BCM fuse for a count of ten, it is located in fuse box under hood (kind of above battery) and I think it is number 28. You will lose your radio presets but may 'fix' hatch thing. I 'think' replacement BCM is around $500 and it has to be programmed at dealer. It is located inside center console (shifter area). Also IF the BCM had to be replaced, it will most likely be with updated part and if you don't have DIC you will lose the capabilty to personalize settings for lights and door locks. For the oil spots it could be a number of things. Much more common then head gaskets is lower intake manifold gaskets, and it would have to be pretty bad leak to reach the ground. I have pictures of what to look for on intake gaskets posted elsewhere. Feel free to e-mail me and I can send you a link as to what to look for to see if it is that.

ramex

RAY 80 : Totally Kool thanx for the info . I will check out the items you have mentioned this weekend. I work the graveyard shift so all things get pushed to the weekend. I do have the DIC so no prob there. Please if you would send me the links to the pictures of the intake manifold gasket that would be much appreciated.
The amount of oil that is on the garage floor is literally 1 or 2 drops never more . And yet when I check the oil it is never low maybe in a 2 month period I could add 8 OZ of oil. So it is not what I would call an oil leak .
Thanx again for the quick response

cyteck

I am a happy owner of a 2001 Pontiac Aztekerroneousy the compass in my
Driver Information Center has been given me the wrong directions. It
seems to like South East, becuase it displays it all the time no matter
what direction I am pointed. Sometimes it will jump to East but then
back to SE.

All the other displays are correct in the DIC but it is just the
compass. Is there a componet I can buy to fix this without going to the
dealer. Is there a part manual I can get that will tell me the part
number? Can someone help me.

ray80

ramex, either send me an e-mail I can reply to, or unblock your e-mail so I can send you the link

ramex

Ray80 : I have turned off my Spam blocker My address just in case is >> ramex@mindspring.com ...>>>>

Let me say a big THANK YOU for the info >>> I have my hatch open Fuse 28 was the solution . I'm sure the GM guys would have done the same and then charged me $500.00 . So If you are ever in the Chicago area I would like to take you and or your better half out to dinner as a way of saying Thank You [serious] .

Interested in seeing those manifold intake gaskets photos.

ray80

Glad the quick fix worked for you, hope it stays fixed. You should have mail

lepster

My 2002 Aztek will not start after the second or third stop when warmed up. For example, if I stop at one store it will start when I come out. If I do a second short trip while it is warm it won't start. It cranks just fine, it just doesn't start. If I keep cranking it, it won't start. If I let it sit for 10 to 30 minutes, it will start. I have followed the instructions in the manual for a flooded engine but that didn't work. I can smell gas, though, after cranking it for a while. Any thoughts?

stever

Try the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

Steve, Host

clintonjohn

Has anyone else noticed that if you have the front windows open as you drive, the wind entering the cabin causes an unbelievable percussion? Please tell me that it's not just me. I didn't believe my wife until I tried it myself.

stever

It's very common with most newer cars:

tidester, "Volvo XC90 SUV" #930, 4 Jan 2003 1:19 am

Steve, Host

ray80

Almost feels like the whole vehicle is shaking. Cracking a back window a bit takes care of it