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The engine was studerring, and running real rough as if it was going to turn off and there is knocking noise.
I just broke 53k miles on this car, I was thinking maybe a sensor probably needs replacing, since I can only go as fast as 20mph, I opted not to take to auto zone, and have the diagnostic tool tell me what wrong.
HAs anyone else had these issues? I hate to take it and just to find out it was something simple.
Was negative cable removed first and attached last? If the documented procedure for replacement was followed (I:E: moving of underhood fuse box) I might be inclined to check hot cable conection from battery to fuse box to ensure its tight and no corrosion present. Fuses that may come into play from looking at 02 manual seem to be #30 and #40 in the cabin fuse box and maybe #48 in underhood box, but they handle things beyond just gauges it appears. One other thing I would try after checking, is to just remove negative cable from battery for 20 or 30 secs, then re-attach. Might sorta reset things. Good luck
Michelle
Do you have the instructions on how to put up the tent?
if you have them I would appreciate a copy.
Thanks
BTW, you can get the battery out without moving the underhood fuse box. The cross-brace will slide out after you take out the bolts, and the battery can be angled up and out between the radiator cap and the washer bottle without too much of a problem.
Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 0O-07-30-002B
Date: July, 2002
Subject:
Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)
Models:
1999-2002 Pontiac Transport/Montana
2001-2002 Pontiac Aztek
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Condition:
Some owners of the above vehicles with a HydraMatic 4T65-E transaxle may comment on harsh upshifts or harsh garage shifts, soft shifts, shudders on hard acceleration, or shifts erratic. These conditions may appear intermittently or set a DTC P1811 or P0748. During diagnosis, a low or high line pressure (actual versus desired) may be observed.
Cause:
The above condition may be due to any one of the following which may affect line pressure output:
Sediment inside the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve, causing the PC solenoid valve to mechanically bind.
Sediment in the valve body, causing the torque signal regulator valve to stick.
Incorrect transaxle oil level.
Part of the key here is the wording about 'intermitent' and 'may' set codes (meaning it may not set code that would help in diagnosis). Good luck
'There is a clip on the back of the gear shift knob.Pry that off and remove the handle.Remove your cup holder.Under the lower one is a screw and you remove that.Lift off the cover.the bulb is at the end of a wire and is a little tricky to twist out and replace.Seems an 8 year old with small hande would find it easy.Be careful with that dust cover boot or belt that goes around the shifter.I popped out the red plastic bar indicator and it's lost.I'll fashion another. It's easier to put stuff back with the shift handle removed since you can turn the housing upside down and you can get that dustcover belt back in the track'
I get the oil changed faithfully every 3k miles and for the past year they've suggested changing the PCV valve. About 4 months ago we finally did, but with the last oil change they said we needed it again. We explained they've already charged us for changing it and demanded if it's not done to do so. A month later we found a small package tucked inside the engine with,you guessed it, a PCV valve in it.
I mention all this because I read on another message board that someone with a Pontiac GT had this exact same problem after driving it and parking with a ticking sound that went away when he removed his PCV valve,but came back when he put it back on but he didn't know why. Any suggestions on what this noise may be before I'm bullied into spending thousands on a new engine that I may not even need?
The problem that was it was a spring,and a rubber gramet on one of the pistons, to make a long story short we spend 300.00 to get it repair.
The car acts as if is running out of gas, studerrin, like is gonna die, and theres a knocking sound on the front of the engine.
IMPORTANT: what ever you do take it to the mechanic as soon as possible do not drive it, if a piece falls inside of the engine it will be a very expesive car bill.Let me know how it works out.
The dealership did replace the battery free of charge.
I did look it up, the connection for + (red) cable is under the tethered cap at front of underhood fuse box
Thanks">
'Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly (duct that attaches to the throttle body)
2. Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat (use the radiator petcock for that).
3. Remove the crossover exhaust pipe.
4. Remove the radiator hose from the housing.
5. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket.
6. Remove the thermostat.
7. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and the thermostat housing.
Install
1. Install the thermostat into the engine block.
2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket. I would replace this gasket. They are pretty cheap and best not to re-use the old one and have a leak.
3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). This is critical as the housing is just made out of aluminum and you would not want to warp it and create a leak.
4. Install the radiator house to the thermostat housing.
5. Install the exhaust crossover pipe. The studs and nuts are tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). The heat shield bolts are tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly and duct. Now would be a great time to replace the air filter if you need to.
7. Fill the cooling system, per procedure in the Owner's Manual. After you have filled it, use the air bleeding procedure to remove the excess air from the system. You may have to readjust the level by adding coolant and re-bleed the system after a couple days of driving to burp the air out of the system.' good luck
Thanks