If your talking about the plastic assembly the cargo tray slides on,,,,,,,, it shouldn't be bolted to floor. There are 4 sliders that hold it in. They can be indentified by a sorta hole (kind of looks like mini cup holder) about an inch and 1/2 in diameter. They slide towards the inside of assembly (might be tight and you may have to work at it a bit to move them). Once you do get them all slid in, assembly should come right out (obviously installation after is opposite procedure). You didn't ask about tent, but I'll mention there was 2 versions of it. The 2001 version does NOT have canopy and while it will work on your 2004, it would be tight (because of the rear spoiler) and you have to be a bit careful with it (if you get that one). Good luck, Ray
I have an 03 Aztek, while driving this morning all of a sudden the check engine light came on. The engine was studerring, and running real rough as if it was going to turn off and there is knocking noise.
I just broke 53k miles on this car, I was thinking maybe a sensor probably needs replacing, since I can only go as fast as 20mph, I opted not to take to auto zone, and have the diagnostic tool tell me what wrong.
HAs anyone else had these issues? I hate to take it and just to find out it was something simple.
My heated seats won't heat. Is there an easy solution? I checked the owners guide and it didn't say anything about it being on a fuse. Also, one of the lights on my radio has gone out but the rest are still on...any idea's why?
I found fuse number 42 in the underhood fuse box listed as main fuse for heated seats and air, there may be another more specific for heated seats and I'll see if I can find it. It may also be connection/wiring issue under seat perhaps. For the radio light, it is most likely a soldered connection to light and not easy to fix.
I was wondering how to fix or what to fix after replacing the battery and the gauges do not move but there is power to the dash board. I have replaced a battery before and this never happened. Is there maybe a fuse that needs to be replaced and if so where would it be and the number it would be. I was previously told by a dealer that I needed to take in and have them reset the code and they would work. But I have an obd scanner and there was no code to reset. Then a mechanic told me to check fuses under dash on the passenger side and i did but do not know which one I should replace if any there. please help me out and to what this could be. Thanks in advance.
Hhmm that could be trouble figuring out whats wrong. Assuming it happened right after battery replacement: Was negative cable removed first and attached last? If the documented procedure for replacement was followed (I:E: moving of underhood fuse box) I might be inclined to check hot cable conection from battery to fuse box to ensure its tight and no corrosion present. Fuses that may come into play from looking at 02 manual seem to be #30 and #40 in the cabin fuse box and maybe #48 in underhood box, but they handle things beyond just gauges it appears. One other thing I would try after checking, is to just remove negative cable from battery for 20 or 30 secs, then re-attach. Might sorta reset things. Good luck
Problem was with a fuse under hood. I think it was fuse 45 which is a 60 amp fuse. I took it out and put it back in and seems everything is working fine now. Thanks for the help though. Not really sure why it happened but it is fixed now.
My transmission just went out in my 2001 Pontiac Aztec about 3 days ago and I only have 48,000 miles on my car and have maintained it meticulously I bought it brand new. I am not a happy camper. GM is willing to pay for the transmission since it is off warranty, however I have to pay for labor and for a rental care this is a bunch of [non-permissible content removed]!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
While I understand your dissappointment and frustration at the moment,,,,,,,,,,,, your vehicle came with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty and your are roughly 2 years and 1/3 milage beyond that. After some time I hope you realize you've done good at getting them to partialy cover repair and Pontiac has done good with what they are willingly to cover. They don't have to cover any of it. Hope your back on the road again soon.
I am the owner of a 2002 pontiac aztec which I purchased new in 2002. I have had very few problems and I have 60,000 on it. However within the last week, I have had problems heating the car inside. The thermostat reads normal. I also have heat as long as I am diving or "rev up" the engine when not moving. Any comments as to what it might be?
I LOVE my 2002 Aztek, but it's getting up there in miles and we needed to add a second car to the family. It's nearly impossible to find used Teks around here (FL), so I grudgingly chose a Honda Element. It sort of reminded me of the Tek, i.e. relatively cheap, ugly (which I find endearing), split liftgate, and a few other little things. I like it but find myself constantly comparing it to the Tek. What do y'all think you'll be buyin as a replacement when the time comes?
For the no start problem, either the new battery is no good of perhaps battery cable conection is not quite right (had that once, resulting un no start key locked in ignition and maybe or maybe not interior stuff wotking). Alternater another possibility. The gear shift light is pretty easy, a number#194 bulb and a little procedure I'll try to post later.
I just purchased a new stereo for my 02 aztek, but the only place that had what i wanted was walmart, and unfortunately, they don't install. I'm looking to do it myself. Any help, especially with removing the paneling?
I bought my 02 Aztek 2.5 yrs ago in SC. It sat for about a year before I could transport it to Germany. I've managed to put on it about 6k miles in 1.5yrs. It is a great vehicle and a head turner here in Germany. I've also hit about 107-110mph on the autobahn with no problem until the governor kicked in . However the car was sitting in the driveway for about 2 weeks now and I tried to start it up, won't start. So I jump started it and let it idle. Shut it down and tried to restart, no go. Because there is no power, everything is locked up including tranny. Did anyone else had similar problems? Thanks in advance.
If it has original battery still, thats the first thing I would check on. They should be started every couple weeks for battery to charge, even brand new, there is still some power being used even though shut off.
Im considering purchasing a used 2001 pontiac aztec 6 cylinder with 39k miles. Ive come across some user posts on the net stating that they experienced major problems at 40k miles like blown head gaskets among other major problems. Can anyone confirm or deny such claims to help me with my decision on going through in persuing this vehicle? I currently have a chevy blazer that has been nothing short of a mechanical nightmare and am looking for soem peace of mind to some extent. Id hate to spend 10k on this vehicle and have to go through major engine repairs shortly thereafter. Thanks for any info on your experience with this vehicle.
I just replaced both of the heads on my 2002. It's not a fun job but I did it in about three days. Now I have to fix the real problem. I have to replace the HEATER CORE. It would appear that they have built this car around it. Has anyone out there ever changed out the heater core and if you have do you have any suggestions. I thought that the heads were going to be a pain, but this takes the cake.
I have a 2003 Aztek with 82,700 miles. I purchased it new. At 43000 miles the head gaskets went. The dealership said that new head bolts would help to prevent the next one. the cost to fix was $1,100. At 68,000 miles the bolts that hold the head on stripped in the head. A new head had to be put on at a total cost of $1,800. I purchased an extended warranty for $1,600 when new that last 5 yrs or 100,000 miles. It paid off. Just yesterday at 82,000 miles the front left wheel bearings went bad. Cost of $416.00. I have had a sticky rear lid hatch, usually have to use the remote 2 or 3 times to get it to pop up enough to open, usually is worse when its cold out. Have a bulb out in the mirror and one of the bulbs in the radio display is out. Anyone know if these bulbs are easy to fix? I have had to put new tires every 21000 to 25000 miles, I have the 17'' wheels so tires are hard to find that are not over $125 each. Just put Yokahomas Avid's seem ok so far. I was hoping to keep the car to 125,000-150,000 miles. Not sure if that would be wise after the warranty runs out.
Thanks for the help. Had the same issue after battery replacement. Pulled all 3 of the battery fuses from underhood and the problem went away. Must have something to do with the BCM re-setting again.
BTW, you can get the battery out without moving the underhood fuse box. The cross-brace will slide out after you take out the bolts, and the battery can be angled up and out between the radiator cap and the washer bottle without too much of a problem.
Has anyone else experienced an erratic shifting problem with their Aztek. I have an 02 model and for a year or more it has been shifting all by itself. There's no rhyme or reason to when it does this. I can be driving along and it may shift out of gear or even downshift all by itself. I've taken it to two different dealerships and have been told both times that unless THEY can confirm the problem, they can't fix it. The car isn't storing in problem codes in its diagnostics, so they have no way to confirm. My extended warranty is almost out and I want to get it fixed before that ends. HELP!!!
sorry to hear of your troubles. It is difficult to fix something when its not easily re-creatable. I have not experianced this happening with ours but I did find one TSB that applies to 02 Teks and may be the cause: Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle Bulletin No.: 0O-07-30-002B Date: July, 2002
Subject: Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)
Condition: Some owners of the above vehicles with a HydraMatic 4T65-E transaxle may comment on harsh upshifts or harsh garage shifts, soft shifts, shudders on hard acceleration, or shifts erratic. These conditions may appear intermittently or set a DTC P1811 or P0748. During diagnosis, a low or high line pressure (actual versus desired) may be observed.
Cause: The above condition may be due to any one of the following which may affect line pressure output:
Sediment inside the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve, causing the PC solenoid valve to mechanically bind. Sediment in the valve body, causing the torque signal regulator valve to stick. Incorrect transaxle oil level.
Part of the key here is the wording about 'intermitent' and 'may' set codes (meaning it may not set code that would help in diagnosis). Good luck
Hi, I just got a aztek and the gear shift light is out. I see you give the part number but how do you change it? ive been looking all over the darn thing and can't see how and have no luck finding any info on line or by calling up the dealer...guess once you pay for it any thing that was or goes wrong is your problem
I haven't had to change it myself(YET) but here is procedure that should work: 'There is a clip on the back of the gear shift knob.Pry that off and remove the handle.Remove your cup holder.Under the lower one is a screw and you remove that.Lift off the cover.the bulb is at the end of a wire and is a little tricky to twist out and replace.Seems an 8 year old with small hande would find it easy.Be careful with that dust cover boot or belt that goes around the shifter.I popped out the red plastic bar indicator and it's lost.I'll fashion another. It's easier to put stuff back with the shift handle removed since you can turn the housing upside down and you can get that dustcover belt back in the track'
I'm hoping I can get some advice. My 2002 Aztek has almost 39k miles on it. Other than an annoying whining sound when turning to the right, it's run perfectly up until this past weekend. After driving around town for about 1/2 hour and stopping at a store,there was an extra noise accompanied by a brief jerk when I turned the key to start the car. On my way home I made another pit-stop and after turning the key to start the car again there was a (softer) noise accompanied by a brief jerk. These stops were less than a mile from my home. About 2 hours after parking at the house I went back outside to start the car and now there's a ticking sound while idling. After it idles down some it mostly goes away,but tries periodically to come back. I get the oil changed faithfully every 3k miles and for the past year they've suggested changing the PCV valve. About 4 months ago we finally did, but with the last oil change they said we needed it again. We explained they've already charged us for changing it and demanded if it's not done to do so. A month later we found a small package tucked inside the engine with,you guessed it, a PCV valve in it.
I mention all this because I read on another message board that someone with a Pontiac GT had this exact same problem after driving it and parking with a ticking sound that went away when he removed his PCV valve,but came back when he put it back on but he didn't know why. Any suggestions on what this noise may be before I'm bullied into spending thousands on a new engine that I may not even need?
If you're looking for a reliable vehicle, you should probably look elsewhere. The Aztec, especially the 01 and 02 models are unreliable. The major problems are the intake manifold gasket, wheel bearings, and electrical. In this segment, I believe the Ford Escape is a better choice. Good luck.
I have a 2001 Aztec. My problem started when the weather started turning cooler and would run heater in the mornings on way to work. At the beginning the Service Vehicle Soon light would come on and at the same time the temperature gauge would plummet to cold. Heater still worked fine. When I would come home with no need to run heater the Service Vehicle Soon light would go out and the gauge would start working again and the temperature would be a normal operating temp. Now that the outside temperature is consistantly cold and the heater is used daily the Service Engine light has come on too. Have flushed the radiator, the heater works fine and have not seen any leaks from radiator. Could this be the water temp sensor? Can anyone help :confuse:
I did a little looking around and found another owner that had same symptoms. Turned out to be stuck open thermostat. In that case it cost them $500 even with extended warranty due to multiple trips ($100 deductible per trip) and other parts being replaced (most likely when they didn't have to be). Also be aware another owner changed their at the expense of 5 1/2 hours and a bottle of iodine for skinned knuckles to save $300 shop wanted for replacement of $10 part. Good luck
Thank you so much. I remember when it was easy to diagnose a bad thermostat. Think I can afford a little frustration and a bottle of iodine! Will try your suggestion and let you know if we survive. Thanks again.
I have a 2002 aztek when I start it the whole dash goes dead speedometer radio all gauges in hud it say's check gages on dash it say's security and service engine soon I have changed the BCM and the ingition switch and the battery still nothing Please Help
Hhmm can you explain the history a little better? Did you do that stuff because the gauges weren't working, or did they stop working after the other thing were done, and how soon after?
O'no it's nothing simply. I had that issue while on travel for the Holidays. Mostly likely you will need a new engine, mine only had 62k on it. The Head Gaskets are blown amongst many, many other things I'm sure. I actually got on here to see if anyone had my same problem. They denied my warranty because I had it fixed in maryland without consulting them. I live in michigan, don't keep my warranty information in the car.
I've had the same problem, I'm well under 160k though. For the key you are going to have to slide the transmission out of park just a little bit. If you push it all the way to the top it will lock your key in, just put it in park then slide it down a bit. It will still be in park! Everything else I wish I could help you. I'm on here to get problems for recalls, my car has been well taken care of and I still had to replace the engine at 62k
Yes I just went thru this with my wife's Aztek and she just broke 50k miles.
The problem that was it was a spring,and a rubber gramet on one of the pistons, to make a long story short we spend 300.00 to get it repair.
The car acts as if is running out of gas, studerrin, like is gonna die, and theres a knocking sound on the front of the engine.
IMPORTANT: what ever you do take it to the mechanic as soon as possible do not drive it, if a piece falls inside of the engine it will be a very expesive car bill.Let me know how it works out.
Thanks for the reply. It started about 2 months ago the 1st thing I noticed was the airbag lite stayed on then on the odometer it read error. Not such a bad thing at the time. Then one night went to my car after work started it and with in 2 to 3 seconds the whole dash died. Turn the key off and everything comes back. So now I have tried these things to remedy the problems and seems that I am just putting good money after bad so I am asking for help... some times when the temp outside is warm I don't have a problem sometimes I drive a few miles shut the car off and restart it and every thing is fine Now that the weather is freezing stoping and restarting does not seem to help. This morning I pulled the car out of my garage and let it warm up for about 15min went back out shut it off and restarted it the it was fine after work nothing. Tried to stop about a 1/2 hr of driving nothing. So now I am completely stumped. Its a long drive without a speedodometer and radio. SO if any one can help it will be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance
I just purchased a 2003 Aztek from a buick dealership. A week after the battery went dead. It had to be jump started but not with the battery terminals. I'm not sure what my boyfriend put the battery cables on to get it started but my question is where do you put the jumper cables to jump an Aztek being the terminals are in such a bad spot? The dealership did replace the battery free of charge.
Hhmm the longer I have a vehicle, the more things I forget about them. For the positive (red) cable, I think there may be an easy accessible terminal, most likely covered with red plastic cover in general area of battery. The negative cable can be attached on any grounded metal part. I will look it up in manual when I get a chance.
I did look it up, the connection for + (red) cable is under the tethered cap at front of underhood fuse box
Thanks. I did not get an owners manual with my Aztek. The dealership has ordered one. After having the battery replaced I had a problem with the engine racing at 3.5 rpms. Dealership towed it and had it all day Monday. I picked it up late in the day and drove it home after their explanation of the computer resetting itself after the battery failure. Made it home and had it towed back because of the racing engine problem. Got it back yesterday finally after they replaced a computer module. Hopefully we are done with the problems.
Hey I would like to ask you how you survived? I am having the same problem with the thermostat in my Aztek. How did you get to the thermostat? I have already flushed it and now they are telling me I might need to replace the thermostat. All I can say "Please Help". Thanks">
I did some looking around and found a procedure from service manual, doesn't look all the difficult, but thats on paper: 'Removal 1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly (duct that attaches to the throttle body) 2. Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat (use the radiator petcock for that). 3. Remove the crossover exhaust pipe. 4. Remove the radiator hose from the housing. 5. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket. 6. Remove the thermostat. 7. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and the thermostat housing.
Install 1. Install the thermostat into the engine block. 2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket. I would replace this gasket. They are pretty cheap and best not to re-use the old one and have a leak. 3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). This is critical as the housing is just made out of aluminum and you would not want to warp it and create a leak. 4. Install the radiator house to the thermostat housing. 5. Install the exhaust crossover pipe. The studs and nuts are tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). The heat shield bolts are tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb in). 6. Install the air cleaner assembly and duct. Now would be a great time to replace the air filter if you need to. 7. Fill the cooling system, per procedure in the Owner's Manual. After you have filled it, use the air bleeding procedure to remove the excess air from the system. You may have to readjust the level by adding coolant and re-bleed the system after a couple days of driving to burp the air out of the system.' good luck
thanks for the help. you said you got it from a 'service manual" is their a way i can get to this online where it might display any pictures? if not thats ok. I appreciate this info, you are the only one that has given me an answer. Everywhere else they say "we charge $95 to even look at it, plus labor and parts". I could save my $95 fix it myself and still have $ left over to buy and bandages i might need for my fingers after i get this done. again thanks and hopefully you do have some pictures. you can email me to nancyholguin129@sbcglobal.net.
Unfortunately I don't believe it is online anywhere, and I don't have the service manual, just copied the procedure. Sorry but the verbage is all I have.
Sometimes you can find diagrams at the repair guide section of AutoZone. Or you can pay for access to alldatadiy.com. Or your local library may subscribe to Alldata or the Auto Repair Reference Center guide.
Has anyone had major engine problems with the 2003 Azteks. Anything would be greatly appreciated. I've talked to numerous people about blown head gaskets and replace engines with less then 50k miles. I am pushing for a recall or some type of compensation because this is ridiculous. If you have had issues like this please email me at irishgerald22@yahoo.com
I have an '02 Aztek - which I absolutely love - and recently had a new battery installed. After my father-in-law put the new battery in, I had no gages whatsoever and ended up having to pay 80.00 to have a mechanic disconnect the battery and reset my computer for me. Now, a week later, something odd is going on! I will be driving and all of my lights go out! For about a half a minute I will be without any exterior and interior lights, including my headlights! This has happened four times now in the past four days and I have no clue what is going on. The forth time was on my way to work this morning and my battery light flashed at me as everything went out and came back on. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. I have also never had a gear shifting light since I purchased the car, would be nice to have!
Comments
The engine was studerring, and running real rough as if it was going to turn off and there is knocking noise.
I just broke 53k miles on this car, I was thinking maybe a sensor probably needs replacing, since I can only go as fast as 20mph, I opted not to take to auto zone, and have the diagnostic tool tell me what wrong.
HAs anyone else had these issues? I hate to take it and just to find out it was something simple.
Was negative cable removed first and attached last? If the documented procedure for replacement was followed (I:E: moving of underhood fuse box) I might be inclined to check hot cable conection from battery to fuse box to ensure its tight and no corrosion present. Fuses that may come into play from looking at 02 manual seem to be #30 and #40 in the cabin fuse box and maybe #48 in underhood box, but they handle things beyond just gauges it appears. One other thing I would try after checking, is to just remove negative cable from battery for 20 or 30 secs, then re-attach. Might sorta reset things. Good luck
Michelle
Do you have the instructions on how to put up the tent?
if you have them I would appreciate a copy.
Thanks
BTW, you can get the battery out without moving the underhood fuse box. The cross-brace will slide out after you take out the bolts, and the battery can be angled up and out between the radiator cap and the washer bottle without too much of a problem.
Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 0O-07-30-002B
Date: July, 2002
Subject:
Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)
Models:
1999-2002 Pontiac Transport/Montana
2001-2002 Pontiac Aztek
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Condition:
Some owners of the above vehicles with a HydraMatic 4T65-E transaxle may comment on harsh upshifts or harsh garage shifts, soft shifts, shudders on hard acceleration, or shifts erratic. These conditions may appear intermittently or set a DTC P1811 or P0748. During diagnosis, a low or high line pressure (actual versus desired) may be observed.
Cause:
The above condition may be due to any one of the following which may affect line pressure output:
Sediment inside the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve, causing the PC solenoid valve to mechanically bind.
Sediment in the valve body, causing the torque signal regulator valve to stick.
Incorrect transaxle oil level.
Part of the key here is the wording about 'intermitent' and 'may' set codes (meaning it may not set code that would help in diagnosis). Good luck
'There is a clip on the back of the gear shift knob.Pry that off and remove the handle.Remove your cup holder.Under the lower one is a screw and you remove that.Lift off the cover.the bulb is at the end of a wire and is a little tricky to twist out and replace.Seems an 8 year old with small hande would find it easy.Be careful with that dust cover boot or belt that goes around the shifter.I popped out the red plastic bar indicator and it's lost.I'll fashion another. It's easier to put stuff back with the shift handle removed since you can turn the housing upside down and you can get that dustcover belt back in the track'
I get the oil changed faithfully every 3k miles and for the past year they've suggested changing the PCV valve. About 4 months ago we finally did, but with the last oil change they said we needed it again. We explained they've already charged us for changing it and demanded if it's not done to do so. A month later we found a small package tucked inside the engine with,you guessed it, a PCV valve in it.
I mention all this because I read on another message board that someone with a Pontiac GT had this exact same problem after driving it and parking with a ticking sound that went away when he removed his PCV valve,but came back when he put it back on but he didn't know why. Any suggestions on what this noise may be before I'm bullied into spending thousands on a new engine that I may not even need?
The problem that was it was a spring,and a rubber gramet on one of the pistons, to make a long story short we spend 300.00 to get it repair.
The car acts as if is running out of gas, studerrin, like is gonna die, and theres a knocking sound on the front of the engine.
IMPORTANT: what ever you do take it to the mechanic as soon as possible do not drive it, if a piece falls inside of the engine it will be a very expesive car bill.Let me know how it works out.
The dealership did replace the battery free of charge.
I did look it up, the connection for + (red) cable is under the tethered cap at front of underhood fuse box
Thanks">
'Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly (duct that attaches to the throttle body)
2. Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat (use the radiator petcock for that).
3. Remove the crossover exhaust pipe.
4. Remove the radiator hose from the housing.
5. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket.
6. Remove the thermostat.
7. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and the thermostat housing.
Install
1. Install the thermostat into the engine block.
2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket. I would replace this gasket. They are pretty cheap and best not to re-use the old one and have a leak.
3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). This is critical as the housing is just made out of aluminum and you would not want to warp it and create a leak.
4. Install the radiator house to the thermostat housing.
5. Install the exhaust crossover pipe. The studs and nuts are tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). The heat shield bolts are tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly and duct. Now would be a great time to replace the air filter if you need to.
7. Fill the cooling system, per procedure in the Owner's Manual. After you have filled it, use the air bleeding procedure to remove the excess air from the system. You may have to readjust the level by adding coolant and re-bleed the system after a couple days of driving to burp the air out of the system.' good luck
Thanks