Pontiac Aztek

stever

Check the "No Start" Problems discussion while waiting for Aztek specific responses in here.

pkarlsson

I have a 2003 Aztek with a start problem that I have diagnosed to be in the transmission selector unit. When having the start problem it’s enough to press the brake pedal and slightly rock the shifter lever a little bit out of park and back again and the vehicle will start. I disassembled the gear selector unit. There is only one screw hidden under the rear cup holder insert. Inside the unit there is a gear position sensor that likely is a simple mechanical switch. There is a six pin connector connection to this gear position sensor. It has only five wires connected. Two of the inputs are switched battery and the brake pedal pressed signal (it goes low when you press the pedal). If I disconnect the connector with the key already inserted (you can’t remove the key with this connector disconnected) the vehicle always starts. I’m currently trying to figure out how to fix this problem, what need to be replaced or possibly repaired. The sensor is likely a sliding type sensor with bad contacts causing the wrong information to the ECU controlling the start. Anyone else having seen this problem?

rock16

I have a question, where is the bcm...and how do I get it out. I am having cold start issues....Aztek needs to be jump started every morning, will run fine all day re-starting is no issue. Dash lights went out, no blown fuse.

kcossairt

disclaimer: this is just what I had to (not official)

disconnect the battery
remove the cooler
remove the cup tray
removed and lift up the lower console (cooler holder)
remove piece around gear lever area that has the rubber seal
remove (pry back) both side covers for console lower sides

on top of the column of electrical connectors is the BCM lying flat. Remove the two large connectors from the driver's side and pop a couple of tabs so the column pushes out the passenger side for access.

swap out the BCM and then reverse the steps above

Note:I re-installed only the screws I felt were required so if I ever have to change the BCM again it would take less than an hour.

upslims

Did you ever fix this problem with the warning light? When I turn my wheel to the left, I hear a growl, and those 2 lights will come on. I turn the car off and back on and it will be reset. From what I found it is a wheel bearing. Let me know.

speed_racer5

Gary, I have the same problem; brake vibration and warning lights on ABS and traction control applied at every stop, do you have the problem fixed? what did you replece to fixed?

greighn

The problem always seems to tbe the wheel sensors, at least that's what they tell me the computer error code shows. Have them hook your car up to the computer and read the error codes from the ABS/tracion control system. It should indicate an error in one or more of the wheel sensors.
However, the wheel sensors are not cheap as they are built into the wheel hub and you have to have that whole assembly replaced for several hundered dollars. My problem seems to be the sensors keep going bad. I don't know whether it is a quality control problem of the replacement parts or some other malfunction in the system.
Good luck with yours.
Gary.

ray80

I think I would be getting the connectors checked for corrosion, its not always the sensors themselves

greighn

Thanks. I will suggest that to the mechanic next time it happens.
Gary.

jakebv

Did you EVER fix your leaking problem.

I have the same. Driver's side REALLY wet after rain.

Dealer wants a couple of days to find.

Can You Help??

stever

Here's some reading material while waiting for responses:

Interior Water Leaks

al812

they are analog you need to take them to a dealer and have them updated to digital,I was told 15.00 for my 02 monte to have done

exzur2071

I had the rear left wheel bearing replaced for $408. Gone were the whining groaning noise, but the two lights stays on. I think culprit is on one of the other three wheel sensors. Next time I will have it cleaned.

ladyib

Help! My warranty expires in a month! I only have 11,200 on a 2004 Aztek! Problem started with intermittent NO OPERATION on the whole heater/ac assembly, which includes rear defogger. The little lights were not on which select air from outside or inside of car, or to select a/c. Restarting car would sometimes make it operate. If it operated when car was started, whether heat or a/c, it worked fine until you restarted car again, then you never knew. Sometimes after I drove several miles with no operation I would suddenly hear the blower and it had kicked on. Interestingly it NEVER kicked off while I was operating the car.

Dealer kept telling me if it's operating they can't do a diagnostic on it, so I have to bring it in while it's nonoperational. One day I was two miles away from the dealer and the system was nonoperational for 3 days, when it SUDDENLY started again (No going over bumps, just driving). Finally got it in to dealer, waited an entire day, they said open circuit at control head assembly, and that was replaced, I was ready to go! When the car was driven to the pickup area for me, I got it, SAME THING, NOT WORKING!

They kept the car for 2 more days, (they said they had problems because it would keep kicking on and they couldn't diagnose it) said they found an open at ignition circuit and found BCM blocked. Replaced ignition switch and BCM and reprogrammed to GM specs. I picked up the car, and, you guessed it, two days later it's like nothing was done, same exact intermittent problems are back.

I'm hoping someone can help. I'm not as technical as some of you guys out there!

ray80

sorry to hear of your troubles. I think as long as it is documented as still occurring, it should still be covered even if your technicly out of warranty. As far as the problem is concerned, it sounds like one of those tricky electrical troubles that occur with the sensitive electronics in todays vehicles. Because it appears to happen only as a result of starting vehicle as opposed to on the road, I would suspect something is being detected as open when a check is run when vehicle is turned on. Things they might want to check are: corrosion at connection points to HVAC cluster, fuse/relay connections that are involved with HVAC cluster (tight and non-corroded), perhaps the cable that goes from battery to under hood fuse box (tight and non-corroded) and perhaps battery cable connections. Just some thoughts

mikinzo

I once had a problem with the intake manifold gasket leaking and the cooland went through the harness that connects to the fuel pump in the back. The harness was corroded and needed to be replaced. I had the manifold gasket and the harness fixed and never had a problem so far. I loved the Aztek, and you have to remember that it's getting old, need maintenance, and specially if you bought it used, we call it IOPP meaning inheriting other people's problem.

ladyib

Many Thanks for the reply, Ray! I will follow up.

littlemsrodeo

In reply to the temp gauge...my 2003 just did this a week ago, overheated, light came on, then service engine light. Took it to repair shop and they said it was the thermostat. Couldn't keep coolant in the overflow. Took it to a local repair shop who found that the intake gaskets were leaking...not the termostat.Radiator was bone dry 1 day after filling. So, they replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets, flushed and refilled the coolant (not dexcool this time), and a complete tune up ($605.00 later)...problem fixed! Now...2 days later, ABS light is on and computer says it is LR wheel speed sensor. So we have it replaced ($375.00 later) and it only fixed the problem for 2 hours...light back on and we take it back to the shop, now they think it is wiring problem???
We bought our Aztek new in 2003 and started having problems that same year...so many problems in fact that we filed lemon law on it, and GM agreed it was a lemon :lemon: . Only problem was GM wanted me to pay a usage fee to "buy it back"...that was like $2800.00 which I didn't have :mad: ...so we kept the vehicle, bad move!!! The car spent over 68 days in the shop the first year! Nothing but problems since then...brakes (3 times in one year), hubs (3), rotors (3 times), tires (2 sets), coolant leak, battery, rear hatch, Check engine light, SES, ABS, paint peeling (in 2003, no less), gas gage, bearings, gets stuck in park (daily), radio light is failing, tranny problems, electrical...and the list goes on and on! :sick:
So many of the same things that are noted by tons of customers on this site alone...how can they (GM) get away with this??? :confuse:
Seems like we could all get together and file a class action suit or something!

littlemsrodeo

2003 Aztek, bought it brand new in '03. We have had the same problem...dealing with it right now!
Started with noise and felt like vehicle wasn't going to stop...kind of like the brakes were pulsating. Then ABS light came on. Replaced the LR hub since computer stated it was the LR speed sensor. Worked for about 2 hours and problem is back...no light yet though. Taking back to shop so they can search for a wiring problem, or maybe a bad part...but have already spent $375.00 on the hub replacement. And just fixed coolant leak 2 days prior was another $605.00...we have spent thousands on repairing this car over the time we have had it.
We have had so many problems (I posted all of them on a another post) but we have already replaced both the front hubs/bearings twice also!
So, not sure what we will do or if we will be able to fix this problem...but if you find out anything different please post it...

littlemsrodeo

In reply to the temp gauge...my 2003 just did this a week ago, overheated, light came on, then service engine light. Took it to repair shop and they said it was the thermostat. Couldn't keep coolant in the overflow. Took it to a local repair shop who found that the intake gaskets were leaking...not the termostat.Radiator was bone dry 1 day after filling. So, they replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets, flushed and refilled the coolant (not dexcool this time), and a complete tune up ($605.00 later)...problem fixed! Now...2 days later, ABS light is on and computer says it is LR wheel speed sensor. So we have it replaced ($375.00 later) and it only fixed the problem for 2 hours...light back on and we take it back to the shop, now they think it is wiring problem???
We bought our Aztek new in 2003 and started having problems that same year...so many problems in fact that we filed lemon law on it, and GM agreed it was a lemon . Only problem was GM wanted me to pay a usage fee to "buy it back"...that was like $2800.00 which I didn't have ...so we kept the vehicle, bad move!!! The car spent over 68 days in the shop the first year! Nothing but problems since then...brakes (3 times in one year), hubs (3), rotors (3 times), tires (2 sets), coolant leak, battery, rear hatch, Check engine light, SES, ABS, paint peeling (in 2003, no less), gas gage, bearings, gets stuck in park (daily), radio light is failing, tranny problems, electrical...and the list goes on and on!
So many of the same things that are noted by tons of customers on this site alone...how can they (GM) get away with this???
Seems like we could all get together and file a class action suit or something!

littlemsrodeo

Mine does this too...2003 model! The keys get stuck in the ingnition and car won't shift out of park...dealer once showed me that under the steering wheel there is a little hole, might have a plug in it...but you can stick a pen or something small in there and release the keys...once you do this turn the car off and restart, it will then reset. Believe me I have to do this at least 8 times a week...it has been repaired by dealer at least 6 times, so now I just fix it myself and live with it.
The lights on my radio have quit too...don't know what to do about that?
We have been through 3 batteries...just make sure you keep your receipt!
And the hard shift thing is another problem that we have experienced...GM won't fix...convienently they "can't duplicate the problem".

jkporcupine

Well
First I love my aztek, but
what kind of retarded monkey designed the electrical??
my fan blower is losing stages 1,2,3
Not sure how much that will cost to fix?? I can guess but i dont want to

and the drivers side window is stuck up or down it depends on the cars mood
I am thinking about getting ahold of a new switch and putting it in myself not sure if it can be done??
I really could use some advice here. when my blower loses stage 4 and 5 and my window is stuck up its going to be a crappy summer
I found a few switches on ebay and it looks like that panel is just screwed on.
anyway thanks for any help you can give.

sissysmom

I have an Aztec and everytime I turn on the Air Conditioner this really stinky vinegar smell comes out of the vents. I am a single mother, and unfortunantly don't have the money or the time to take it to the shop so I was hoping someone might be able to give me an idea of what that smell could be. Thank you.

greighn

littelmsrodeo,

I'm having the same problem with my ABS. Had the wheel sensor replaced and the problem reoccurs, in my case, several days later. Please let me know what they find is wrong with yours so I can direct my mechanic to look their also.
Thanks!
Gary.

greighn

Hi,

My name is Gary. My wife and I purchased the second Aztek our dealer was able to obtain when they showed up in 2000. It's a FWD red GT version. We still own it and it has 136,000 miles on it.
We like our Az (although I still take a lot of ribbing from friends about the looks) and it has held up reasonably well (better than I expected for a GM product.)
We have had a number of issues over the years (air conditioner coil, blown head gasket, and then that traction/ABS system that we are still struggling with - see other threads).
We just purchased a new Toyota Sienna and plan to give the Az to my teenage son.
Thanks for providing this forum to discuss our "unusual" vehicles!
-Gary.

greighn

Sounds very similar to our scenaro - replace wheel sensor - a couple of days later ABS start coming on when they shouldn't along with traction control - then total system failure with ABS and Traction Control warning lights going on.
We had the part replaced twice and it just started up again the other day. I can't believe the parts are that bad! (then again it is a GM!) I suspect there must be another problem. I plan to take it back in a another week or two when the system fails totally and have them do more diagnostics.
Do you know if it is possible to just disable the ABS system and convert the car to normal braking? What would happen if you took the ABS fuse out? I'm seriously considering that if they can't find and fix this problem. I really don't want to sink any more money into this vehicle.
-Gary.

ray80

Something I have seem several times as our Teks are aging (most likely applies to other vehicles as well) is the connecters to the sensors get corroded and throw a code. This may apply to ABS abd AWD disabled lights illuminating. May very well be something to check before replacing hub assembly, might eliminate the
fixed for a week thing also

ray80

The problem with the bloser is most likely the blower motor resister assmbly, not very exspensive part, but a little difficult to get to (under the dash)

ray80

The stuck key problem: Couple things I can think of. It may be an issuse with the BTSI (brake transaxle shift interlock I think its called). It is located in center console near shifter, and may be bad, or have broken corroded or shorted wiring. Given the problem with replacing battery it could also be voltage problem causeing troubles. A long duration active load test on charging sytem might point that out (perhaps alternater troubles)

ray80

Most likely it is some type of growth or rot due to lack of better words) in the HVAC system. First thing I would do is check the cabin air filter as it is a common place for leaves and debris to gather and compost. Replacing filter(s) should eliminate that problem, if not the dealer has a procedure to spray something in the sytem to eliminate whatever is cooking in there.

tidester

If it is a mildew problem as ray80 suggests then you may want to try this: turn off your air conditioner 1 or 2 minutes before turning off your engine (but keep the air flowing!). This will help keep the air ducts and filters dry and reduce or eliminate mildew over time.

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper

speck66

In 2001 we bought a brand new Aztek. About 3 months after we got it there was a factory recall on it for the battery going dead. Even with nothing turned on, overnight, the battery would die. Fortunately, we did not encounter this problem. The solution was GM paid to have the dealer install some kind of module which was supposed to stop the battery drain. We haven't had that problem before or since. You might want to talk to the dealer or GM to see what kind of module this was.

speck66

I'm not sure this is the answer or not, but Azteks must have a photo cell somewhere on the front. When it gets dark, the lights are supposed to come on automatically. When it gets light they are supposed to go out automatically. There may be another problem. The dreaded BCM. I think mine may be bad in my 2001 Aztek, cause I had some weird things happen.

speck66

Save yourself the aggravation of removing the panel on the lift gate. Been there and done that. There is no way to unlock the gate with the panel removed. I tried. The only way I found to do it was to disconnect the positive battery terminal. This reset the BCM to factory defaults and the gate opened with the key and the key fob as they call it.
I couldn't open my gate either until I disconnected the battery terminal and reconnected it. The tailgate problem started after a few weird events. One day when it was raining, I stopped at a convience store. When I shut off the engine the dic light came on with the hatch ajar message. I checked it and found it still closed. Then one day I came home from work, used the key fob to lock the car. I came in the house. About 15 minutes later the neighbor came to the door and reported my headlights were on. Sure enough, they went on by themselves. Lo and behold the next time I went to open the hatch, it would not open. I disconnected the battery terminal again. It reset the BCM and the hatch opened. I am of the opinion that the BCM is bad.

jkporcupine

well about the window switch I managed to unscrew the side panel and you can take the whole switch assembly out.
The wires appear to fit into it through a series of jacks. I have no doubt the issue is a switch problem not wiring.
the window works if i push the switch to the side.
so I think i will try to order aswitch assembly and install it myself.
Any tips before i try it??

2ndhalfcor

Wow! Thanks very much for sharing that. I've been needing to replace my BCM but have worried about having to reprogram afterward. Was any reprogramming required for you? (I would presume I would have reprogram the door locks).

My BCM (2001 Aztek) has been slowly going berserk for the past several months. Right now I have to pull the BCM fuse and reset it to open the back hatch. After the interior of the vehicle warms up, the security system goes off, the lights flash and you can hear the BCM resetting the whole system (clicking sound) as the panel goes on and off!

jeffshaw

Replacing the switch is pretty easy. At least it was on our 01. Pop the plastic up that holds the switch in place,unplug the two sets of wires and pop the old switch out. You can find a new one at eBay motors generally but I ordered ours off of gm-parts.com

jeffshaw

Our Aztek is in the KC area with our daughter and she is trying to change the alternator out with the help of friends and they can't figure out how to remove it once they have it unbolted. Seems it doesn't want to fit through the space they have. We don't have a manual. Anyone gone through this? It's an 01.

jkporcupine

Man I cant find the switch anywhere
Ive bid on 4 on ebay only to lose out to the same guy each time!!!!
I really hate those salvage people hording parts.
here i sit in the summer with no window or fan blower and some guy has about 10 sitting on his shelf while he is sitting on his butt watching HEE HAW.
sorry had to vent.
I havnt had any luck finding one for under $150 new
and my repair guy wants to charge me $300 to fik the window switch.
any ideas before i just break the window and go window free and waterlogged?

jeffshaw

I don't know what year your Tek is but if it is an 01 - 05 I bought ours from this outfit, http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm if that link does not bring up the switch just type in part number 10413253 in the search box. I also found it listed on eBay with Buy It Now at this link,http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PONTIAC-AZTEK-01-05-NEW-GM-POWER-WINDOW-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ150127122161QQihZ005QQcategoryZ50459QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Hope that helps. I took the old one apart and cleaned it up and I'd be willing to bet that it will work now but I don't want to pull the new one back out to try it.

jkporcupine

OK problem solved and it was a rather easy fix for those who are interested.
The problem with the aztex switches is very simple and there is a reason why it mainly happens to the drivers side window.
first Ill explain a bit about myself. I am an sculptor and a resin caster, so i have a bit of knowedge about plastics and solvents.
The problem is with a tiny plastic rocker buried deep within a switch, and it rests on a spring.
the part most likly costs a fraction of a penny to make

The issue in my view lies with the power windows automatic roll down feature. All of the switches are identical exept for one part. the drivers side has a small lever that is clipped onto a standard switch.
this lever requires a bit more tension to draw down so a lubricant is used.
The plastic rocker appears to me "Injection molded styren"
the same material model cars are made of.
the lubricant is yellow in color. Indicating it is sulfur based and oil based.
"OIL BASED SULFUR LADEN LUBRICANT DISOLVES STYREEN AND MOST PLASTICS"
stupid pontiac should know that
so I pulled a rocker from the rear window switch and made a Silicone mold of it. then cast a bunch of high density plastic rockers. I replaced my erroded rocker with my new one and the window works great. I plan on keeping a baggie of rockers in case this happens again.
so all in all it cost me $2 to do what a mechanic would have charged $250 to do.
If anyone has this problem send me an email joshua@knuthart.com
Ill walk you through the process and you can save your money to fix some of the other TEK issues. at the very least you can swap out a rocker from another switch it takes 5 minutes
Thanks for the help all and i guess not buying a switch was a blessing in disguise.
now on the the stupid fan

tidester

Ill walk you through the process ...

That sounds like a great candidate for our Guides section!

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper

speed_racer5

Well, don’t bother I already did that (take the ABS fuse out), but the ABS warning bell is always on with some other warning lights so that is a good thought but not a good idea. The dealer has replaced both left and right front hubs but problem continued after two days. When I took the car back to the dealer and keep the car for three days same thing, the problem returned next day so I went back to the dealer, finally he said that this is “normal” that I should drive the car like it is. Not necessary to say what I thought about this guy. I took the ‘Tek to a “regular” shop and they found that the highly trained technician at the Pontiac dealer damaged the piece where the RF hub is mounted so I needed to replace that piece and the RF hub. In my case the scanner always reports the error in the left front hub sensor, so we replaced it again and guess what… The problem still there. (fk me !!!).The ‘Tek is at the shop, they will replace the LF hub again!. I know Pontiac does not make the best parts but I don’t think they are that bad…so, obviously the hubs sensors are not failing even though the scanner is reporting that error. The mechanic has machined front rotors, changed pads, checked voltage in both front speed sensors, aligned and balanced 4 wells, checked pressure in EBCM. Checked wires and connections for corrosion. Now every thing is pointing to the EBCM. I’ll let you all know.

littlemsrodeo

Keep us posted, please! Still can't find problem in our Tek either...highly frustrated at this point!!! Nothing seems to fix it for more than a day...Haven't cheked the EBCM...What exactly is the EBCM?

ray80

I thought of something else to check for that may not be obvious. The is a wiring under the drivers seat that goes through the floor just behind the seat, the harness (underneath) can get corroded do to water intrusion and cause various different problems (and does have wiring for brake sensors I believe). Might be worth a lot anyway

speed_racer5

EBCM stands for "Electronic Brake/Traction Control Module", The EBCM monitors and compares wheel speeds to decide when wheel slip is excessive and/or the vehicle is becoming unstable. If the vehicle is braking, wheel slip will trigger ABS braking. If the vehicle is accelerating, wheel slip will trigger traction control. And if the vehicle is cornering or making a sudden steering maneuver, undesirable changes in the yaw rate will trigger corrective braking to restore handling control.

wearesaylors

What is the BCM? May apologies for not knowing. I just got a 2001 Pontiac Aztek. I was not more than 1 hour away from the dealer and the engine died. I kid you not, the engine died. So, the engine is getting replaced at their expense, but I want to know more about the car. I have read a fair amount about the BCM, but I do not know what it is.
Thanks

wearesaylors

To change the gasket really is not that hard, it is however, time consuming. I spent 12 hours with myself and two other "gear heads" replacing the gasket on my 2000 Alero 3.4 L V-6 . It was actually a lot of fun and allowed me to get to know where every single thing on that engine was. See if there is a Haynes manual, we found that to be very helpful. Hope this helps

ray80

I have been perusing the Rendezvous forums as well as the Aztek forums and someone there with ABS TRAC lights got theirs fixed after finding problem with EBCM wiring harness (NOT the ECBM itself)

exzur2071

Without the annoyance of the AWD and ABS lights always on, my 2001 Aztek is running pretty good.

To my understanding the car is fine with the AWD off and no ABS.

Would these two dashboard lights cuase future problems if not taken care of?