Pontiac Aztek

ray80

exzur2071 , hopefully you are looking at the topic on TC ABS disabled also and know about the possibility of wiring problem (as opposed to replacing hub assembly). As far as the lights and results are concerned (No traction control via AWD and no ABS working) the only thing I can think of is that the condition will continue to set codes and perhaps filling the computer memory and not enabling another code to be recorded (for some other thing happening to vehicle).

bruce30

I have the same type of foul smell from my AC. Had it cleaned out NC since car is new but it will be $150 to get HVAC cleaned out every year after that. I wonder if that is something I could do myself without special tools.

ray80

I would guess it is most likely something you would not like to tackle. Best thing to do is as Tidester suggested and try to keep system dry (thats assuming problem is growth somewhere is system that you can't reach

thumperdsz

Getting ready to camping on Friday and guess what? All of a sudden my glass upper hatch will not stay open! As far as I know, the only thing that could cause this would be a failure of the Hydraulic Lifts that USED to hold the hatch open. Is there any electircl problem that could cause this? I ask because the I.D.10-T that installed my XM radio wired it wrong and it fried the factory radio/CD unit (along with the data link). PLEASE HELP!!!!!

DAVE Sz.

thumperdsz

I have a good friend who used to be a GM mechanic. According to him the major cause of M/F gasket failures on the 3.1L and 3.4L V6s is improper torquing on the part of the mechanic during installation. He claims the least bit of overtorque will eventually cause a failure. And lets face it every mechanic and torque wrench is a little different.

ray80

Yes, the lifts are bad, not to difficult to replace.

anthony716

The ati-lock (ABS) light Comes on intermittently.
First started 6/4/07 took car to deal.
Dealer state the sensors is corroded and will not be covered under you extend warranty.
They clean the sensors and charge me $200 dollars. According to the work order I was not charge any parts. So just 200 for labor to clean a sensor
Pick up the car that night the dashboard ati-lock (ABS) light came on and stay on.
Return car back to deal they had the car for almost 2 week and replace the wheel bearing assembly. They state this should fix the dashboard ati-lock (ABS) light .
Pick up the car that night went to stop the car and the ati-lock (ABS) light came back on. Return car back to the dealer had car for 5 days said one of two things the EMC or ECC some ati-lock (ABS) computer or the wires running from the sensor to the computer is shorted out. They “jumped the sensors” by passing the engine wire harness so there is a direct path form the ABS sensor to the ABS computer. The deal state that is was fixed. Currently have the car and test driving it now 6/27/07
Look like a lot of ABS problmes I have a case open with GM right now. Pleas I would like to know if any one had the ABS problem fix correctly

anthony716

Have they found a fix. My car been in 3 time this past month

littlemsrodeo

We are having the exact same problems...fix something get the car back and a mile down the road it starts again. Taking the car back this morning...so far the wiring harness and the hub have been replaced with no luck. Don't know what will come next...
As far as your complaint with GM...Good Luck!!! We did that, went all the way with BBB to file Lemon Law...they agreed the car was lemon and would buy it back, but failed to mention that we would have to pay a "usage fee" determined by our mileage. So we get to the dealer to turn the car in and GM wanted almost $4000.00 from us!!! Money we didn't have, so we had no choice but to keep the car and now it has become one problem after another. If the problem has been listed here on Edmunds, I can almost tell you we've been through it! That is why I would love to find out about a class action suit against GM, there are hundreds of us on here who have the same problems on a daily basis...and quite frankly this whole ABS thing is very unsafe in my opinion...and I have two small children that ride in this vehicle and that makes me very nervous.
Please let us know if they do find a solution for your ABS problem...and we will do the same.
Thanks so much!

anthony716

Have the found the fix exact same problem with my 03
been in the whole month of june

littlemsrodeo

Okay, so our mechanic replaced the wiring harness under seat...fixed problem for 1/2 day. Now the light is coming on every now and again and the ABS traction problem is occuring with every stop. It is getting much worse. Now the car actually slides some when stopping instead of just pulsating. And the brakes seem to go all the way to floor before really engaging. He suggested that we could try to fix it by changing another one of the hubs, but I don't want to do that, don't really think it will help. He said that when the wheels are on the computer, they are actually registering that they moving at a speed of between 5-15 MPH when in fact they are sitting still. So he still has it, not sure what today will bring. Will keep you all posted!

anthony716

We got our back on tuesday night dealer said they replaced wireing harness. That what they told my wife. They told me they ran a bypass cable from the sensor to the computer. drove for two day no ABS light we will see. Keep you posted

littlemsrodeo

Thanks for the update...let us know if this seems to work, it may be our only option at this point also. When they bypass it does the ABS still work or do you lose the ABS all together?

ray80

When they bypassed the bad/broken wire(s) the ABS system should have been enabled, it should only fail when the connection isn't there.

littlemsrodeo

Great, Thanks Ray80!!!

I'm sure I speak for many of us when I say that your input on these boards is priceless!!! Thanks again!

anthony716

Yes the deal insured me that the bypass "band-aid" was good fix and that the ABS will still work

jkporcupine

Ive been reading about the blower fan issue that appears to be common with azteks.
I have the same issue many of you have. The fan settings are failing one by one.
now only 4 and 5 work.
From my understanding it is a blower resistor assembly that is causing this.
My question is.
How do i get to this part? Ive heard its in a tight spot but is accessible, but where is it? I can get a new part for $27 but as with everything my mechanic wants $400 to replace it.
How do i do this my self?
Thanks

sugarwookie

I have had a great experience to date with my 2003. I haven't had to do anything to it and it's at around 60k miles.
Lately, after fueling up, it sputters upon restart, not starting for at least thirty minutes or so after the problem happens. I took it to pepBoys and had the charge system checked and everything was okay. I also replaced tha battery and it was fine, until it started again. Today, after fueling it again stalled and I called and had it towed in. It will sputter and sound like it's out of fuel and so I'm clueless as to what this might be (Fuel pump?)

I also see that it looks like Dexcool is poison for these things and wondering when my gaskets will go out now. I'm thinking I need to have the Dexcool taken out?

ANyone had similar problems with their Aztek? I could use some advice!

Sincerely

David
Blazefighter348@aol.com

littlemsrodeo

As far as the dexcool goes, we didn't start having problems with that until around 90,000 miles...just had to have a coolant leak fixed and they replaced the gaskets and flushed everything and replaced the dexcool with something else. So far so good!
The fuel thing sounds familiar too, ours wasn't as drastic but changing the fuel filter might help. We had the fuel system cleaned and then ran a few tanks with the cleaner in it...that helped still have some minor sputtering.
Do yourself a favor and find a local mechanic who is trustworthy to do your repairs...GM will charge you out the wazoo if you are out of warranty. Been there, done that!
Hope this helps!

jones1223

Does anyone have an idea where the low side A/C port is located on a 2003 Aztek? Thanks for the help!

greighn

Well I had the car into my local mechanic again and gave him all the info I found on the web regarding the ABS problem (check wires, connectors, etc.) He claims the wiring all checks out OK. He disconnected the wiring at the computer and put it on a scope and spun the wheels and the sensor appears to be working fine even though the computer reports a wheel sensor error. His recommendation was to replace the ABS computer at $900 new or $300 used. I told him to go ahead with a used one which will be installed this Monday 7/2. I will keep everyone posted on whther this changes/fixes the problem.

Thanks.

-Gary.

funhouse34

Hi every one, I have a 2001 Aztek (60.000 miles)and I love the car. We already had lots of problems with it (AC, brakes, on board computer, coolant leaking, starter) but our extended warrenty took care of that. Now I have a problem with my parking lights. I replaced a bulb (yep I did use the right one) on the right (back of the car) parking light. The left side was working but after replacing the right, both are not working now. I think that the brake light is the same bulb as the parking light and when we hit the brake, the brake light works. Sounds a bit confusing but what I am trying to explain is that I don't think that the light bulb is the problem. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes and they look all to be working ok.
Does any one have any idea what the problem might be??

thanks
Freddie

stever

Try asking in the Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion to get some general suggestions.

wilsonwaller

Does anyone know who would like to buy the AZTEC tent
package that also includes the mattress? The items are brand new, never taken out of the box!

rangerdopp

How much do you want for it?

wilsonwaller

well to buy it from the dealership its about $370 plus taxes. So I would let it go for a really fair price of say $200.00 O.B.O

stever

Please take the buying and selling to email. Thanks.

wilsonwaller

I'm on this. My 1st day on it. What do you mean take the buying and selling to email??

stever

Please mark your email public in your profile (with Display Preferences) or use your CarSpace email, and contact each other that way.

And welcome btw!

anthony716

After our 10Hr tip to Canada car was fine. Then the next day after we got back the ABS light came on. Called the deal up said they think it is the computer. But after they replaced with a known good computer the error still happening car still in the shop after the 4th time in months time frame

littlemsrodeo

We got ours back and they can't fix it...said we would have to go directly to the dealer to have the computer replaced. After hearing that didn't fix yours, I'm leary of that too!
They have tried everything with ours and nothing will stop it. The ABS problem has gotten much worse, and is really quite scarey...I really don't know what to do at this point.
Took the car to a dealer who said it would be worth about $3,000.00 and we owe $14,000.00, there's a reality check!!!
And yesterday the radio faceplate went completey out also...so now I can't tell what time it is or what channel I'm on, much less what number song is playing on a cd.

Please post any other info. on the ABS, hopefully we can figure this out without another major expense.
Thanks!!!

greighn

Well, the computer was replaced with a used one and so far the car is running better than it ever has. The brakes are working like new. We just got back from a weekend at the Delaware beaches (about 120 miles each way plus lots of driving around) and no problems, warning lights, etc.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the new computer did it for my problem.

-Gary.

littlemsrodeo

Thanks Gary...Where were you able to find a used computer? and about what did it cost you?
So glad to hear that your Tek is better!!!

greighn

Thanks, littlemsrodeo!

My local mechanic was able to find me one for $300 + $100 to install and bleed the brakes. He said a new one from the dealer would run $900 so it made the choice easy. I don't know where he gets his parts from but he has always done well by me regarding aftermarket and now used parts.

Good luck with your Tek!

-Gary.

hconnickjr

2001 Aztek 3.4L- I have had this thing hooked to the computer several times and replaced the EGR valve, Ignition Control Module, checked all injectors and replaced plugs and wires at the recommendation of my mechanic(s). Yet I still have to pump the gas pedal to get the car to start. Once running, it runs perfect. This problem popped up 6 months ago and nobody seems to be able to fix it. It's not that big of a deal unless it becomes a larger problem later. Plus I'd like to put an automatic starter (necessary here in MN) on the vehicle.

Thanks for any help.

Ryan

I've replaced head gasket, intake manifold gasket, condenser, tires, brakes and rotors, pigtail sensor and the above-mentioned parts in the last 6 months. I'm tired of putting cash into my beloved Aztek...

hconnickjr

I am also having the often mentioned problems with my rear hatch not opening without getting out, pulling up, then hitting the open button again as well as the blower fan working intermittently (because of the bad wiring harness). I had to replace the stereo right after purchasing as well. I have owned the Aztek for 2 1/2 years...Why do I love this vehicle so much?? LOL.

wearesaylors

Ok, so here is a weird thing. Sometimes, after I put the car in park, I can not remove the key from the ignition. In fact, it will not turn past the accessory position. Now, here is where it gets interesting: We have discovered that if we SLOWLY shift from Reverse to Park, then we can get the key to go past the Accessory position and can remove the key. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks

ray80

Sounds like an issue with the BTSI (Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock) perhaps. It is either not working properly, or there is wiring problem (corrosion/short ETC).

littlemsrodeo

We have the same problem...there is a little hole under your steering wheel (there might be a little plug in it) but if you put a ball point pen or something small in there you can manually release the key and steering wheel. It's a common thing for us now. Mine normally locks up the key, steering wheel, shifter, and door locks at the same time.
Our newest thing is the fact that you can remove the key from the ignition while the car is running...the other night I thought I had it completely off and removed the key, only to find out that it wasn't all the way off so the lights remained on and that almost drained the battery...

ray80

BCM is Body Control Module. It has its hands in variuos electrical functions (outside of engine functions) such as radio/lighting/ perhaps HVAC controls, things like that

ray80

Just a guess, but for the starting problem, how about the fuel pressure regulater. Another thought: Fuel filter?

For the hatch (assuming it is happening in warm weather), try this: lift the hatch and you should see a rubber bumper on each side. Turn each out a little bit (counter clockwise) maybe a 1/4 turn or so and see of its better (turning them out to much wouldn't be good, will set ajar ligh on).

wearesaylors

Thanks Ray80. I see your name all over this board. How do you know so much about the Aztek's?

ray80

Well we have had ours for quite a while, and I like to keep an eye out for potential troubles plus share solutions I have seen. (My username could be surfsthenetalot )

hconnickjr

Ahhh...yes, thank you. I forgot to mention that the fuel pressure regulator was replaced by the mechanic also. I will definitely try the bumper adjustment, though. I appreciate your input a lot.

Ryan

hconnickjr

And the fuel filter was replaced at the same time...

darthporno

Hey fellas. I'm doing the hub bearing on the '04 with 50,000 and was wondering if anyone knows the size of the axle nut as I need to buy the socket tomorrow. Also does anyone know if you can buy extra tuff liftgate shocks that will work good in the winter?

ray80

I don't know for sure, I saw elsewhere someone mentioned 34mm but someone else thought it was 1 1/8 inch (maybe they are close). Hopefully you have the specs for properly torqueing. Also hope you bought new bolts that attach bearing assembly to knuckle as they are supposed to be 'torqued to yeild' and the old ones may not toque properly without breaking. For the liftgate struts, if you are talking about the winter stickiness of the hatch, new or different struts won't help as they are only used to keep liftgate up, not release it. I have yet to hear of a good solution for that.

wearesaylors

Thats fantastic. We have had ours for a month and a half. We had to replace the engine right away. I am pretty sure that the previous owners have never heard of the phrase "vehicle maintenance." So the engine was rotten, but the one we put in seems to be fairly solid. Now, I am just to work on the "quirks" of this vehicle (i.e. the key being stuck in the ignition if you dont shift to park just right just to name one example.) But I think that i will be on this board for awhile, since I know the engines and I love this car.

danzigdan

Does anyone know how much fuel is left in the tank when the low fuel light comes on? I'm trying to do an accurate check on my mileage.

jo3ra

sugawook,
I had your problem, I found by shear dump luck the problem that fixed mine. Look under your car on drivers side, just a little behind where the front and rear door meet there are 2 (on my 2002) wire connections that plug into floorboard. The connector was corroded, I sprayed electric cleaner and put some electric gell on it, plugged it in and has worked fine eversince. I did this to both, but the connector with the wires going to the fuel tank was the problem.