Pontiac Aztek

jo3ra

I had your problem, I found by shear dumb luck the problem that fixed mine. Look under your car on drivers side, just a little behind where the front and rear door meet there are 2 (on my 2002) wire connections that plug into floorboard. The connector was corroded, I sprayed electric cleaner and put some electric gell on it, plugged it in and has worked fine eversince. I did this to both, but the connector with the wires going to the fuel tank was the problem.

rob_azteka

I've already decided, I'm replacing with a Torrent: looks like a slightly bigger, badder version of the Aztek to me:) :shades:

dbsidney

My '01 Aztek is experiencing the exact same thing as you describe. Three of the cig. lighters (the 4th one in the hatch area still works fine) have stopped working. I can't locate the designated fuse for them, if this is a fuse problem. What did you do to fix yours? Please let me know! Ray, if you're out there, would you happen to have any input on this? Thanks!

anthony716

My o3 still in the shop hope to get back this week
They replace Speed sensors Wheel hub
wiring harness and computer. Fort the ABS
Will keep you updated

ray80

In looking at an 02' manual, the most likely fuse is numer 32 in the underhood fuse box, also there is fuse #45 (that controls other stoff as well, so not as likely). In the cabin there are 2 relays thought may possibly be involved #27 and 33. If I see any others that look likely I will post agin.

ray80

I don't believe there is a trustable way to tell. The low fuel light may come on when going up (or perhaps down) a long steep hill, or perhaps just fuel sloshing around on a flat road may cause it to illuminate.

wormburner

Hello folks... I'm one of the Buick Rendezvous owners having the same problem with my ABS/Antilock lights coming on. I too replaced the driver front wheel hub, and the problem came back. I'm not stupid enough to replace the passenger side as the GM tech suggests. However, I did have another piece of the puzzle to add to this discussion. My problems began when I had two new tires installed on the front of my vehicle. Could that mean that the tech hit/damaged/knocked loose something on both wheels during that tire change. Perhaps rust in the sensor connectors? Or damaged some other physical part. I mention this because I really dont believe this is a computer problem, and I think people are needlessly replacing these expensive parts. I'm living with the warning lights for now, and I'll just put black electric tape over the dash lights until someone has a sure answer for this problem. My Pontiac brothers and sisters, I wish you well.

ray80

While its possible the changing process could loosen something, I wouldn't think it would have any more effct then just driving down a bumpy road. Since it began after 2 tire change, it has me wondering. Are the 2 new ones same brand model as the old ones. Hopefully they gave you the same size as the rears. If there is something different about the new ones (outside diameter being most important) that could be the cause.

wormburner

Same model tire...same size... They did something to muck it up. I'm sure of it.

ray80

Ok then, the wiring connectors should be somewhere behind the wheels and rotors I believe. I don't know why they would have messed around there unless something else was being looked at. Outside chance air pressure in one or more of the tires is way out of whack.

ray80

As an addem to this: I happened to be looking at owners manual and found something I had forgotten about. If one lets the fuel get down to low, its possible for the fuel system to start sucking air and it could cause a misfire code (and SES/CE light) to be illuminated. Could also cause a needless trip to dealer/independant shop.

wormburner

Now, you may be on to something... I could be hoping too hard, but it does seem to happen more on warmer days.... perhaps the tires are over-inflated... i will investigate and get back to you.

dbsidney

YES! Ray, you were dead on! It turned out to be fuse #32 in the underhood fuse box! Thanks a million! Now here's my latest dilemma - I had the fuse issue resolved the same day that I had the Air Conditioner fixed (there was a hole in the condensor, the thing was replaced to the tune of $920.00!). However, there now seems to be a mysterious draw on the battery which causes the vehicle to not start after being off for a few hours or longer. At this point, I DO know what is NOT causing the draw - it's not the starter, the battery or the alternator. Those all checked out fine. In fact, when the battery is jumped, it starts IMMEDIATELY. Is it a short in the system somewhere? A rogue fuse draining the battery? Something related to the rebuilt A/C that hadn't been in use for the last 2-3 years? I don't expect you to work miracles here, Ray, but any advice would help tremendously. My local mechanic hasn't been able to fix it so far, and my next move would be to take it back to the dealership, but I am trying to avoid THAT hideous expense if at all possible. Thanks again for all of your help! You rock!

ray80

First thing, if this new problem started AFTER replaceing the fuse, I would remove the fuse,,,,,,,right now.

What you are describeing sounds like a parisitic drain and they can be pretty hard to find, even by the dealer, unless its a known and well documented thing with the vehicle. I have not heard of any common troubles like this with the Teks (other then a limited number of very early ones which should have been fixed a long time ago). Is it the original battery?

ray80

Couple other things to ponder. Have you perhaps left something plugged in to accessory outlets ( I think one or more may be hot connections that will drain power even after vehicle is shut off)? Are the lights acting properly and shutting off a couple minutes after Tek is shut off. Did you maybe turn on a map light when adjusting mirror and not get it shut off ( I think the retained power system should handle that, but maybe not)?

dbsidney

Okay, I'll do that..... I will remove the fuse immediately. This is the FIRST time that my Tek (it's an '01, with 52,000 miles on it; I am the original owner) has had ANY difficulty starting. It has crossed my mind a number of times that it might be battery related as it is the original battery. Currently there is nothing plugged into ANY of the 4 cig. lighters and there are no lamps or lights on anywhere. Thanks for suggesting that; it was good to double check! Here's how the vehicle performed as of today. I hopped into it this morning and turned the key.... a few clicks, then nothing - no dashboard lights, no chime from the key in the ignition and VERY weak headlights came on. I turned the key 4 or 5 more times, each time the engine responded slightly better until it finally started on about the 5th or 6th attempt. That's it. Then, after having it off for about 45-60 minutes for a lunch break (it had been running for about 1/2 hour and acting fine), it did the same thing in trying to start it, but only took about 3-4 tries to get it to start. From that point on, it was only off one other time and it took another 4-6 tries to get it started, but this series of attempts involved the engine trying to turn over until it finally caught; it wasn't just a series of barely audible clicks and hums this time around. Does this help at all? It doesn't sound like the battery, because once it started, it revved right up. But maybe it is; I don't know. I was told by my mechanic that the battery checked out fine earlier this week - no dead cells. Then again, it's a 6 year old battery. What would the new fuse have to do with this type of drain to the battery? Could it be corrosion to the battery terminals, possibly? Am I better off just taking it to the dealership at this point as opposed to my local mechanic? Thanks again for all of your advice, I hope my new information to you helps!

ray80

Couple quick thoughts. The fuse blew for a reason (I don't know why), but the facet that ite blew, you replaced, now the battery seems weak after a time, would lead me to think about trouble with one of those outlets, mechanical type problem that may hav0e lead to short (and draining battery). If you want to try something, remove that fuse, run Vehicle (drive or whatever) with nothing extra on (no radio, fan blower, nothing) for 15 or 20 minutes to try and get battery to full charge ( as close as vehicle will get it), then see what happens in next day or 2. If its seems much better, most likely short in one of the outlets, if it is no better, most likely battery.

jspurr1977

I am new to this group. I have a 2002 Aztek AWD. I got it in June '06 w/ 43k. It now has near 52k and it has been a headache of late. The condenser went bad, there was $535, the rear whines when I turn, and when i'm on the brakes and turning the wheel to park in a parking space, the brake peddle gives me that vibrating feeling like its the ABS. Also, ever so often the AWD disable light comes on for no reason. I like my yellow aztek, its really a good vehicle, and i love the responses i get from people on it, but i'm wondering if it's more trouble than it's worth. Any comments? Thanks

cordonnier

I used the suggested tip for the tail gate. My tailgate was not functioning. As advised I pulled fuse number 28 in the engine fuse box, and reinserted it 10 seconds later. My hatch has been working great. Thanks a bunch!

cordonnier

02 Aztek 74,000 miles

I am wanting to do preventative maintenance on the vehicle. Generally I want to try and stay ahead of some problems.

What are the most important things to do.

I am conseidering haveing the tranmission fluid changed w/ filter.

also flushing the raidiator - should I not use Dex Cool to replace the radiotor fluid.

Timing Belt - is this an issue with the Aztek? I know that cetain vehicle you are supposed to change at 100,00k miles.

Fuel Filter- had it changed at 45,000 miles

How long do brakes normaly last, I would think that at 74,000 miles of average city/highway use that they are getting close, rather do it too early than too late.

The owners manuel is somewhat vague about maintance.

stever

You can cross reference your manual with the Edmunds Maintenance Guide - it will tell you what the factory recommends at various mileage intervals.

jmccabe2

So let me get this straight...all you did was remove fuse 28, wait 10 seconds, and reinserted it??? I definitely have to try this. My hatch has not opened (via inside button, key, or key fab...none!)for about 6 months now. I recently took it to a dealership and they said it could be the middler actuator, whatever that is. I also disconnected my battery for a few minutes and reset it, it opened once so I could clean it out and then after that, nothing. -Jess :confuse:

ray80

This problem is BCM related thing. The fuse fix kinda causes a reset and resolves it (for a while anyway)

ray80

could be various things happening. The whine you hear from the rear, if its intermitent (not evey time you turn) and if it could also be called a moan/groan, then it may be the versa-trak fluid need a change (also get it checked for low fluid/leak). Vibration felt during braking is many times due to rotors needing re-surfacing. The AWD disable could be something as simple as tire pressure beng off on one or more tires, or a wheel senor that is bad, or connecter that is corroded/broken wire. If the whine could also be desrcibed as grinding (metal on metal) that changes in sound with speed and always happens, first thing I'd check for is wheel bearing/hub assembly (speed sensors are also in hub assembly (AWD thing) )

wormburner

Tire pressure changed to factory spec... traction/abs problem remains - I GIVE UP. I'm putting electric tape over the dash lights.

rarmstrong

My 02' Aztek Air Condtioning works fine most of the time. We recently replaced the coil/rad thing for a few dollars. It will pretty much work all the time but if it sits idleing for a few minutes it seems to put out HOT air. Does anyone else have this problem?
rob
armstrong

redbeardtheroadguy@hotmail.com

rarmstrong

This is a fairly easy job. It is located near the blower itself above the passengers feet. I think it has 4-5 screws that hold it on to the 'airbox'. You have to turn on your back and look up. I can't remember if there was a cover over it or not. But you will know because it plugs into the blower itself. I lost my setting #3 totally and that is why i figured it was that. I tested the new resister to see if it was the problem by unplugging the old one (mounted) and plugging in the unmounted one and testing the air system. It is likely your problem though. Like I say i highly recommend doing this job yourself as it is quite easy.
roba
redbeardtheroadguy@hotmail.com

ray80

I haven't heard of that problem before, and it could be a complicated thing to figure out. One easy thing to check may be the Compressor Relay in the underhood fuse box #13. I did see one case where a tech whacked the fuse box and got a/c working again (perhaps this relay was stuck). I would just check to make sure it is properly seated (maybe remove and re-install).

diana75

I have an 03 It's at 75,000 miles. The problem is that when I drive for a while let's saw about an 1/2 hour the car starts to choke a bit. I have also noticed that if If I turn on the AC it does it sooner. The service engine light was on so I got checked on the machine and was told it was a crankshaft sensor. I took it to a local mechanic and he could not check it because the light has not been on since. I was told by someone that it my need a tune up or it might be something to have to do with the fuel pump,line,filter,etc. Oh by the way it has also stalled while at a light or going in reverse. Does anybody have any idea what can it be or has something like this happen to them :sick: I want to get it fixed but don't know what to look for :mad:

wearesaylors

Were the wires on the interior or on the underneath of the car. I did a quick look, and I could not find the wires. I see what looks like some wires directly under the drivers seat, but I thought that those were the wires for the power seat.
BTW, I have a 01 Aztek with 66,000 (engine has 46,000)
Thanks
Lee

bigt4

I have a 2001 Aztek with the towing package which includes the self leveling suspension feature. It also includes the air compressor for inflating tires, etc. Earlier today I used the compressor to put air in my kid's bike tire. When I hit the on switch it did not stay on unless I kept pressing the (compressor) on switch. No air went in the tire, but the back end of the Aztek is now jacked up and won't go down, even if I drive the car a short distance. Has anyone experienced this; know how get the back end down without removing the lines to the shocks? Thanks

ray80

As far as your concerns with the lower intake manifold gaskets are concerned, you may be safe as the newer ones were on the 03's and beyond I think.

ray80

The connector in question is underneath vehicle.

novascotia

My 2001 Aztek has 110,000 KM. It appears it needs one or both rear suspension knuckle bushings. Under warranty, I had both sides replaced about 50,000 KM ago.

Is this a reoccurring problem? If so, I don't have the tools nor the expertise in this area. I wonder how much it is going to cost me (parts + labor)?

wearesaylors

Thank you thank you. Now I do not feel like I am loosing my mind. Anyways, I will get on top of that, hopefully tonight if the weather allows.
Thank you, yet again Ray.

wearesaylors

I own an 01 Aztek. The car came without a manual. I was able to find an 02 manual for another Aztek. Is there any noticeable difference between the two? Thanks

stever

Try this:

Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online

dbsidney

It ended up being that the 6+ year-old original battery was dead. I should have looked into that possibility a long time ago! When I got the A/C fixed 2 weeks ago, that seemed to finish off what was left of the factory battery. Still, that's quite a testament for Tek owners to get a factory installed battery that's capable of lasting that long! And this includes starting during 6 brutally cold Montana winters, no less! No problems since then, but I WILL keep an eye on the cigarette outlets / "accessory outlets" fuse, now that I know which one it is, thanks to you! I sincerely appreciate all of your help, Ray!!! :shades:

ray80

Good to hear, hopefully it will stay fixed for you.

ray80

I haven't seen where a lot of them get replaced, but have seen a few (Perhaps more in Canada for whatever reason). I think I saw a price of $1200 (us) somewhere but that was a while ago.

osc1

Hi all: We bought our Aztek 2001 new and are now having the EXCAT same problem with our Trac Ctl you all report. Loss of brake pedal when braking into a turn, Trac ON/OFF lights coming on, pulsing pdeal, grinding noise. We've had the dealer replace (at their suggestion) both front wheel hub assemblies/wheel sensors and now they want to do the driver's side rear one for $700+. I told them to just put it back together and forget it. I was also thinking of pulling the fuse on the ABS system but have thought twice based on an earlier post in this string. This is clearly not an isolated problem. Do we go to GM with a petition or something to get the problem addressed?

ray80

Sorry to hear of your troubles. I assume (by the $700 quote) you have a FWD Tek. I am wondering, do you have the grinding noise when turning without braking? If so, the wheel bearing/hub assembly may be bad (bearing itself) and I think not replacing it may very well cause more problems down the road. Do you know if the dealer scanned for codes that suggested replacing the front ones?

One other thing I just found in looking around is one case where there was bad contact in big harness to main ABS module under hood. In this case just a change of a wire corrected problem (one more thing to add to laundry list of possibilites listed here and in Vous forum, if not other places)

capndave

I might want it if it fit over spoiler. Email me.
CapnDave

osc1

Thx for the quick response. No grinding when driving, just on braking into a turn or a stop light/sign intermittently.

Dealer did scan the codes (so they said).

Thx for the heads-up on the big harness.

frizy1

I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek. My AWD Disable light came on about a month ago and I ended up having my battery replaced. All was well until the week after. When I accelerated, it almost felt like the engine was going to fall out of my car. If you took it really really really slow, it was fine. I thought at first, that I had hit a speed bump, but of course there was nothing. It is a total jarring. My mechanic is baffled, and he has several mechanics baffled. So far he has replaced the transfer case and drum. And still hasn't figured out what the problem is.

lady_bug0609

Hello,

I really hope someone could help me! My 2001 Aztek, 117 000km has been great, compared to some posts read on here tonight, but for the past 6 months my Aztek seems to want to over heat. My husband fixed the Thermo sensor and relay's and it still wants to over heat. A mechanic did a test and the fan does work, but it didn't appear to have full power. The mechanic said, "It's a wiring problem". If anyone has had a similar problem or could suggest what else to check that would be great! Our beloved Aztek may be getting traded in soon, if we can't figure this out.

lady_bug0609

Hello,

I have a 2001 Aztek, 117 000km, and during the past week while it's in park, the transmission is making a noise. When I take it out of park you really can't hear it anymore. Any suggestions on what this could be. Also, I've posted a question in the electrical concerns. My Aztek seems to want to overheat. The engine fan won't turn on. We were told it was a wiring problem and from reading all the posts on electrical concerns, it doesn't give me a good vibe. Any suggestions would be wonderful.

Thank you.

wearesaylors

Aside from the BCM (at least I think that is what ray80 calls it), there may be an air bubble in the cooling system. At least that is what my mechanic told me is wrong with ours because our temperature fluctuates often. That is what I have heard. Thanks

turtletek

Earlier today my '01 Tek instrument gauges all flatlined.
My heads up display including the digital speedometer still works, but my analog fuel gauge, tachometer, speedometer and temperature gauge are all dead. Could it be just a fuse or is it likely that something more serious is involved. If it is a fuse, which one is it that need to be replaced? I looked at the underside of the fuse box cover and don't know which one deals with the instrument panel. Help please!

tidester

At least that is what my mechanic told me is wrong with ours because our temperature fluctuates often.

Did your mechanic do anything about it and, if so, did it work?

tidester, host
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