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Pontiac Aztek

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Comments

  • littlemsrodeolittlemsrodeo Member Posts: 16
    Hi...
    Make sure you check for a coolant leak first. We were told by the dealer it was pulling a code for the thermostat. But when we took it to a local mechanic he found it was a coolant leak at the gasket. He replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and we haven't overheated since. Prior to that mine would jump around, sometimes too hot sometimes too cold so we thought it could possibly be a wiring problem too, but flushing the system and fixing the leak solved everthing. If it is a leak you should be able to see the fluid around the gaskets when the car is up on the mechanic's lift. Also we didn't replace the fluid with the dexcool, after the sytem was flushed he replaced the fluid with regular fluid.
    Hope this helps...
  • dalejrnut74dalejrnut74 Member Posts: 5
    My 02' Aztek has many of the same problems I've been reading but yet no window probs. It started with the clock from day one when it was new, losing a minute or two a month, occasionally 1 whole hour. then the A/C either not working or taking 15 to 20 minutes getting cold, now when it dont work, it just dont. The rear hatch always faults when the A/C does. I've done the same temporary fix, unscrewing the battery cable. Now twice my radio silenced momentarily once with airbag light coming on and anti-lock brake light. Then just today the silenced radio with all my gauges dipping at once then back to normal. The engine though never missed a beat. A new one is the door locks not unlocking with the door button until I push lock first. I've read it's the BCM but I would like to know if it is positively the fix I need? :mad:
  • lady_bug0609lady_bug0609 Member Posts: 3
    check to see if you have enough freon in the system, if there isn't enough than the compressor won't come on,so it won't burn it self out.you have to push down on one of the ac ports and see if anything comes out,if nothing comes out than you need to have it fixed and filled if a little comes out than you need a top up.
  • jspurr1977jspurr1977 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the info ray80. I'll check the fluid in the rear and maybe have it changed, and it only moans after driving for a while. The braking thing isn't acctually a vibration, its more like the ABS is coming on when its not really needed. I have had the rotors resurfaced and new pads put on the front. The weird thing is, it's only under light braking and turning the steering wheel, like in a parking lot. Thanks and i'll also have the speed sensors checked.
  • dawnlimburgdawnlimburg Member Posts: 1
    We followed your instructions, with no problem changing BCM, however my radio is locked and the passenger seatbelt light is on. what now? AC works and my hatch opens again.. thanks for your help.. Dawn
  • audiogalcoaudiogalco Member Posts: 1
    hi just wondering if you found out what was wrong. my aztek is having same electrical problems and no dealer can find out i took it in today paid 200 they said problem fixed drove away and it was not if you could help that would be great thank you..
  • tigereyetigereye Member Posts: 1
    I love my Aztek but I continue to have problems with the mirrors. Can the side mirrors be replaced so they tilt in?
    I just cracked the driver side mirror.
  • millerangie84millerangie84 Member Posts: 1
    my car 2002 aztek just started doing that 2 days ago it has been in shop for three days now...first off they told me it was bad cell in battery so i got new one now they say the body control moduel needs replaced..very expensive problem 500$ yea thats 800$ in 2 days
  • cstagecstage Member Posts: 2
    liftgate wont open if you push the button on the key,overhead or even try it by the exterior handle, lights will flash sound will beep, and you can here the motor or cylanoid making noise but gate will not open, ? any answers
    Thanks
    Terry
  • msbates3msbates3 Member Posts: 3
    I have an '01 Aztek, and like many others here, I love it. We are having electrical issues as well, lights flashing, a/c not working, losing stage 5 on blower, back gate not working. So far I have spent almost $3,000 between repairs and rental cars, been without my car for a total of 1 1/2 months, been to two dealerships and one independent repair shop, and still no solution. The BCM has been replaced, twice, a seperate second computer module has been replaced and taken back out because it didn't work and no one can tell me what is wrong. I am completely disgusted with the Pontiac dealerships because they either don't want to take the time to work on it, or assume one thing, say it's fixed and then when I leave, it isn't. My independent repair shop is taking the time to figure out what is happening and working on it when we both have time to leave the car with them. I am going to take them copies of previous posts dealing with the same issues and hopefully (fingers crossed) something will work.
  • dalejrnut74dalejrnut74 Member Posts: 5
    Now my Aztek is progressively getting worse. Today on my way home from work only a 20 minute drive, the radio silenced, dash/dummy lights came on and all my gauges dipped no less than 14 times. Seems like the more I disconnect the battery to reset, the more frequent it happens. This also affects the A/C and the rear hatch always at the same time. Any help would be appreciated!
  • trisha5trisha5 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 Aztek and It is like brand new and not a scratch on the paint job and only 53k miles on it. It is complete luxury with leather heated seats and all the bells and whistles
    I live in the mountians and I drove it through this canyon which had a lot of winding road and I was going 50 mph in places that I would have normally put on my breaks. This car handled supurbly
    and the ride was smooth. The only thing that I was curious about is what kind of Aztek this is because I know that there is a GT,a Rally sport, and just the Aztek. If anyone would also like to post and brag about their Aztek I would like to hear it since I was looking at other posts on the forum and there seems to be a lot of negatives.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Welcome, glad you like the new ride and hope you continue to enjoy it as we do. The easist way to tell if yours is a GT is to see if there is a little silver A on back passenger doors towards the rear. If you have them, its a GT. The rally editions came aound later 2003 I believe.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    As others have suggested there may be a leak or air in the system. Have you had to add any anti-freeze and is it full? Also dioes it actually overheat or just get close to the red-line (they can get pretty warm sitting in traffic before fans will kick on). Any warning lights on at all?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    First thing I would wonder about is the battery, The electronics can be pretty sensitive about flucuations in voltage and even though it may start and run ok. other things can happen. ALso you may want to check and make sure HOT battery connection to underhood fuse box is not loose or corroded as this may cause troubles inside cabin. On one of the Aztek forums here I posted about one owner that cleaned the BCM connections and also discovered what appeared to be arcing problem in cabin fuse box that they corrected and solved all their strange electrical troubles.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    You should post this in Pacifica forum to see if others have had this problem. In general I think this perhaps could be from something being caught when it was last closed (carpet or something) or perhaps is wasn't closed quite tight enough, and maybe a gentle (don't dent it) push to close it further might help.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Sounds like the BCM has to be programmed, to the best of my knowledge it has to be done by dealer (although I heard of someone that replaced BCM with used one and it worked ok without programming).
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You should post this in Pacifica forum

    The Chrysler Pacifica: Problems & Solutions discussion would be a good one to post in, Cstage.
  • jwncjwnc Member Posts: 3
    Hi

    I have a 2003 Aztek and lately the airbag light on the dash has been staying on all the time now. Any ideas of what it could be and it it easily fixable by me?

    Thanks
    Jason
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    The most common reason for this that I have seen is a connection under either the drivers seat or fron passenger seat. Connection may be loose ( maybe stuff under seat caused it) or perhaps corroded. If you want to check this yourself you may want to dis-connect battery first ( I don't really want to mess with airbag stuff myself)
  • jwncjwnc Member Posts: 3
    Hi thanks..

    so basically look under the seats and make sure all the connections here that I can see are tight and check for any connection issues?

    Thanks
    Jason
  • canyonguycanyonguy Member Posts: 1
    My first posting here and, like others, we love our Aztek. Worst thing we can say about it is that we can't buy another one to replace it when the time comes.
    Yesterday we got in to go out and three of the four windows would not go down. The driver's controls won't work on any windows, but the passenger can open and close the window using that control. Neither of the rear window switches works either.
    I checked the fuse and it seems okay: removed it and the passenger window stops working from the local switch; replace it and the passenger window continues to work but none of the others work at all.
    My first guess is that it's in the driver’s side switches and maybe something to do with the WDO switch (keeping the rears from working. Is there anywhere I can get some directions to removing the driver's side switch assembly?
    Any advice out there is appreciated!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My Quest gets carbon build up on the driver's side switch (probably because it gets the most use?). It's easy to get to the switch but difficult to get inside the switch to clean the carbon out. (link)

    One of the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide may help you figure out how to get to your switch if no one in here has done it.

    Some people have had luck squirting these kinds of switches (once removed) with electrical contact cleaner spray, but I didn't have any luck trying that on my van.
  • wormburnerwormburner Member Posts: 14
    After much research, here and on other forums, I took the car back to the dealership and told them to check all the wiring harnesses going from the front wheel hubs to the engine computers. TOLD THEM DONT BOTHER RUNNING A SCAN - just check the harnesses carefully. Got a call a short time later... the casing on one of the harnesses had dried up and cracked, and at least one wire had corroded enough to split. We then argued about whether or not they advised me to replace a wheel hub and sensor for no reason. End result - they covered the labour cost for replacing the harness. It's been 3 days, and so far the problem has not recurred. Fingers crossed. LESSON HERE - DON'T TAKE THEIR WORD FOR IT THAT HUBS ARE FAULTY... HAVE THEM CHECK THE WIRING HARNESSES, AND TEST THE BCM. IF THEY REFUSE, OR TELL YOU YOU'RE NUTS, GO TO ANOTHER SHOP. Good luck!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Good to hear wormburner, as our vehicles age a bit, they have to be ready to go beyond what the magic scan tool says sometimes.
  • trish1210trish1210 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there everyone. have a 2002 Aztek with 58,000 miles on it and the problem is the engine light comes on and stays on for about 2 min do you think there is a problem with it. Then the abs breaks like shake when you come to a stop. Not sure what to do about it. Then when that happens the light comes on. And if you shut the car off and start it back it is ok.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    ANytime the engine light comes on there is something wrong, figuring out what can be a problem sometimes. Is it the service engine soon light? ANd it only happens after the braking thing? Do you feel the shake when braking in the steering wheel or your foot, and does it happen on normal dry road stop or when its perhaps wet road?
  • margaretpmargaretp Member Posts: 3
    hi, 1st time here. i really need a aztek tent package. i am trying to get it asap. i don't want to spend the kind of money the dealership wants for it, the car is 2001.
    i am in southern ontario, canada
    can anyone help?
    thanks for your time
  • aamideiaamidei Member Posts: 1
    We bought out 2001 Pontiac Aztek new and love the size, comfort and headroom but we don't like the list of repairs we have had to do. We have 150,000 miles on the car, but we have been good at keeping up with all the maintenance as described and we still have had the following issues:
    Thermostat fixed twice under warranty but only worked for one season and then stopped.
    Blown head gasket at 73,000 miles
    New Sensor 9 I can't remember which one)
    New computer (just two weeks ago)
    Problems with the rear breaks leaking
    And now the car whines as you accelerate and it hesitates when it shifts.

    I love the vehicle, but I don't think I would buy another because of all the EXPENSIVE issues we have had.

    aamidei
  • gnomadgnomad Member Posts: 17
    My 2001 Aztek GT turned 150K miles today.
    So far, it's been a mixed bag. I bought it new in May of 2002 as a holdover, and did get a pretty significant discount on it, like $8K off of the dealer sticker. Off to a good start then! It has just about every option excpet the 6 CD changer and the heated seats, being here in Alaska I could use those heated seats. For the first couple years the vehicle was great, no trouble at all. And then at 65K the transmission completely died, the gears came apart (I still have them ) No extended warranty, so it cost me $1500 to get it rebuilt. And from there, I experienced many of the typical Aztek malfunctions that plague our well conceived but poorly executed vehicles. AC-dead. Not a big deal in Alaska, the $1000 repair bill doesn't seem worth it for the 15 days you need AC in Alaska. Fuel guage reads either full or empty and it matters not how much fuel is actually left, so I track it using the DIC and fill up at 10-12 gallons used. The onstar was nice but now it's useless as it's the old analog cellular system and won't connect to todays digital cell networks. The intake manifolds leak a bit, but fortunately they had the good manners to leak to the outside of the engine not the inside. And the BCM is acting up. The rear hatch was not opening without a "reset" fuse 28 under the hood, so I bypassed that by wiring the key switch to the liftgate release solenoids in the tailgate. BTW, there are little steel cords to manually open the liftgate, cleverly hidden under the interior panel of the tailgate-I cannot imagine getting to those little pull cords if you had to without butchering that back panel, as the 2 screws at the top of the panel are hidden under the liftgate. Brilliant!
    So the good stuff. It still gets an average of 25 mpg summer and 23 mpg winter, and uses just about a half quart of oil between changes. I've never had to add oil between changes of Mobile 1 5W-30 or the Rotella synthetic I've moved to . It still looks amazingly good, when I bother to wash it. The drivers seat is a bit squashed but the leather is still in one piece. Even the "Immigrant Song" at full volume won't blow out the speakers. It carried enough lumber to build a barn, the roof rack holds canoes and ladders, and it has been to the Arctic Circle with exchange students on a camping trip-Aztek, seats 5 sleeps 4 (the wind blew the tent down).
    Would I buy another one? Not likely. At 150K it is clearly tired. My old Escort was still going strong at 150K and would do so until 175K when it blew the head gasket. Our Plymouth Grand Voyager needed a transmission rebuild at 150K but the engine was still solid and was that way right up to when it got totaled at 205K, still a daily driver and having just passed an emission test.
    At least I am on my original wheel bearings, knock wood.
    Based on my experience with the vehicle and GM itself, I doubt that I would ever buy another GM product. With Chrysler offering a lifetime powertrain warranty, I'm leaning towards a Caliber when it comes time to replace the Aztek. Likely the Aztek will be passed on to my younger daughter until it finally dies and then we'll search the junkyards for a powertain.
  • margaretpmargaretp Member Posts: 3
    hey, i have found the aztek tent, for 76.00, a far cry from the 370.00 wanted by gm. it is at www.napierenterprises.com although i don't know if it includes the air mattress. i was too happy to ask questions
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Thats not to bad a price, I do believe it is for tent only, but with a little measuring I think you can find a mattress that will fit (even if a bit snug).
  • margaretpmargaretp Member Posts: 3
    yes, if i could find out who makes the mattress, i am sure they outsource the manufacturing, i could probally get that elsewhere but the dealership claims not to have that info.
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    how do i find out what the original sticker listed as standard and optional eqipment on my aztec?? It has a reese hitch on it, (it's a rally), but does that mean it has the trailer towing pkg for the engine?? does it have the wiring harness for trailers?? and the top has the rack bars but not the ones that items sit on and adjust to your load size, were they supposed to come with it??
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    What year is it? I may ne wrong, but I think the easiest and most dependable way to see if it has towing package is to look in little storage compart way in back on drivers side. I think all the Teks with towing package have the air pump there, no pump, no towing packgae.
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    its a 2004 and the salesman said it haad the pkg. but if what you're saying is correct, it doesn't.
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    sorry, so is there a way to get the orginal list of standard and optional equipment that was on the list??
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Hhmm I think there is a couple ways. Somewhere there is a way to get a copy of original sticker. Another way is to look at the sticker on the inside of the cover where you looked for air pump. Tht should have all the codes for how yours is equipped. With that somewhere you can find RPO codes for your year. No I have to remember where and how I searched to know those things.
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    LOL OK until you member, i'll check inside the cover tomorrow morning, or mid morning whatever. thanks.
  • wearesaylorswearesaylors Member Posts: 15
    So, I changed my oil, and then 20 miles later, my notification cluster informed me that I needed to change my engine oil. I am sure that there is a switch somewhere to reset it, just like on the Alero's, but I am not sure where it is. Any suggestions would be great.
    Lee
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    You have the Drivers Information Center? If so just scroll through options until oil life indicater is shown, then hold reset button until it goes to 100%. If you don't have DIC its a little more complicated
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    i looked in the rear storage areas and no info. however, i did find a sticker by driver door that says it's a model BK46, so now where do i look up this info on model to see what comes on it?? any ideass??
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Try the glove box door (inside) and see if there is a sticker there. I think the RPO code for trailering package is V92
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    no sticker in glove box, however, i did find a website that lists standard and optional equip. on vehicles, url is www.autobytel.com
    i do know that the service manager at the auto dealer owned the vehicle before me and so i am just going to call him and see if i can get info needed.

    but, here's a question, the list states towing capacity of 907 lbs. but the book states that with only 2 passengers it can pull up to 3500. which is it??
  • wearesaylorswearesaylors Member Posts: 15
    Is the DIC the little screen with the tachometer that tells me when the door is ajar, the fuel is low, etc... if so, how can I scroll through the options?
    Thanks
    Lee
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    No, the DIC (if equipped) is a screen below speedo. Here is the procedure if you don't have it: With the key in ON positionbut engine off, FULLY push and release the accelerater pedal slowly 3 times in 5 secs. turn key off. If the light comes back on it didn't reset, try again. (maybe do the depress pedal a little quicker) I have heard for some it takes quite a few tries to get it reset until you find the magic combo of slowly/quickly doing the pedal thing. Good Luck
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Hhmm, My 2001 manual states (under weight of trailer topic):

    It should never weigh more then 1,400 Lbs. with up to 5 occupants in the vehicle or more then 2,000 lbs. with up to two occupants. It further goes on to say IF you have optional trailer towing package you can tow up to 2,900 lbs. with up to 5 occupants or up to 3,500 lbs. with up to two occupants. Even then it could be to heavy id your mountain climbing or its hotter then blazes out or you plan on driving 90MPH (the stuff you would expect)
  • wearesaylorswearesaylors Member Posts: 15
    Would it be easier to go to my mechanic and get them to reset it with their computers? My mechanic won't charge me if it takes less than a minute or two. Just wondering.

    Thanks
    Lee
  • lohkeelohkee Member Posts: 9
    hmm, hmmm, will have to check book again.. hmmm, hmmm. LOL
    did talk to previous owner and he stated that HE was the one to install reese hitch to tow motorcyles and trailer. no trailer pkg. on vehicle. hmm.....
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    It might be easier for you ;) . I think your mechanic would have to go thruogh the same process to reset it. Its not real difficult, just may take a few times to get it.
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