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Make sure you check for a coolant leak first. We were told by the dealer it was pulling a code for the thermostat. But when we took it to a local mechanic he found it was a coolant leak at the gasket. He replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and we haven't overheated since. Prior to that mine would jump around, sometimes too hot sometimes too cold so we thought it could possibly be a wiring problem too, but flushing the system and fixing the leak solved everthing. If it is a leak you should be able to see the fluid around the gaskets when the car is up on the mechanic's lift. Also we didn't replace the fluid with the dexcool, after the sytem was flushed he replaced the fluid with regular fluid.
Hope this helps...
I just cracked the driver side mirror.
Thanks
Terry
I live in the mountians and I drove it through this canyon which had a lot of winding road and I was going 50 mph in places that I would have normally put on my breaks. This car handled supurbly
and the ride was smooth. The only thing that I was curious about is what kind of Aztek this is because I know that there is a GT,a Rally sport, and just the Aztek. If anyone would also like to post and brag about their Aztek I would like to hear it since I was looking at other posts on the forum and there seems to be a lot of negatives.
The Chrysler Pacifica: Problems & Solutions discussion would be a good one to post in, Cstage.
I have a 2003 Aztek and lately the airbag light on the dash has been staying on all the time now. Any ideas of what it could be and it it easily fixable by me?
Thanks
Jason
so basically look under the seats and make sure all the connections here that I can see are tight and check for any connection issues?
Thanks
Jason
Yesterday we got in to go out and three of the four windows would not go down. The driver's controls won't work on any windows, but the passenger can open and close the window using that control. Neither of the rear window switches works either.
I checked the fuse and it seems okay: removed it and the passenger window stops working from the local switch; replace it and the passenger window continues to work but none of the others work at all.
My first guess is that it's in the driver’s side switches and maybe something to do with the WDO switch (keeping the rears from working. Is there anywhere I can get some directions to removing the driver's side switch assembly?
Any advice out there is appreciated!
One of the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide may help you figure out how to get to your switch if no one in here has done it.
Some people have had luck squirting these kinds of switches (once removed) with electrical contact cleaner spray, but I didn't have any luck trying that on my van.
i am in southern ontario, canada
can anyone help?
thanks for your time
Thermostat fixed twice under warranty but only worked for one season and then stopped.
Blown head gasket at 73,000 miles
New Sensor 9 I can't remember which one)
New computer (just two weeks ago)
Problems with the rear breaks leaking
And now the car whines as you accelerate and it hesitates when it shifts.
I love the vehicle, but I don't think I would buy another because of all the EXPENSIVE issues we have had.
aamidei
So far, it's been a mixed bag. I bought it new in May of 2002 as a holdover, and did get a pretty significant discount on it, like $8K off of the dealer sticker. Off to a good start then! It has just about every option excpet the 6 CD changer and the heated seats, being here in Alaska I could use those heated seats. For the first couple years the vehicle was great, no trouble at all. And then at 65K the transmission completely died, the gears came apart (I still have them ) No extended warranty, so it cost me $1500 to get it rebuilt. And from there, I experienced many of the typical Aztek malfunctions that plague our well conceived but poorly executed vehicles. AC-dead. Not a big deal in Alaska, the $1000 repair bill doesn't seem worth it for the 15 days you need AC in Alaska. Fuel guage reads either full or empty and it matters not how much fuel is actually left, so I track it using the DIC and fill up at 10-12 gallons used. The onstar was nice but now it's useless as it's the old analog cellular system and won't connect to todays digital cell networks. The intake manifolds leak a bit, but fortunately they had the good manners to leak to the outside of the engine not the inside. And the BCM is acting up. The rear hatch was not opening without a "reset" fuse 28 under the hood, so I bypassed that by wiring the key switch to the liftgate release solenoids in the tailgate. BTW, there are little steel cords to manually open the liftgate, cleverly hidden under the interior panel of the tailgate-I cannot imagine getting to those little pull cords if you had to without butchering that back panel, as the 2 screws at the top of the panel are hidden under the liftgate. Brilliant!
So the good stuff. It still gets an average of 25 mpg summer and 23 mpg winter, and uses just about a half quart of oil between changes. I've never had to add oil between changes of Mobile 1 5W-30 or the Rotella synthetic I've moved to . It still looks amazingly good, when I bother to wash it. The drivers seat is a bit squashed but the leather is still in one piece. Even the "Immigrant Song" at full volume won't blow out the speakers. It carried enough lumber to build a barn, the roof rack holds canoes and ladders, and it has been to the Arctic Circle with exchange students on a camping trip-Aztek, seats 5 sleeps 4 (the wind blew the tent down).
Would I buy another one? Not likely. At 150K it is clearly tired. My old Escort was still going strong at 150K and would do so until 175K when it blew the head gasket. Our Plymouth Grand Voyager needed a transmission rebuild at 150K but the engine was still solid and was that way right up to when it got totaled at 205K, still a daily driver and having just passed an emission test.
At least I am on my original wheel bearings, knock wood.
Based on my experience with the vehicle and GM itself, I doubt that I would ever buy another GM product. With Chrysler offering a lifetime powertrain warranty, I'm leaning towards a Caliber when it comes time to replace the Aztek. Likely the Aztek will be passed on to my younger daughter until it finally dies and then we'll search the junkyards for a powertain.
Lee
i do know that the service manager at the auto dealer owned the vehicle before me and so i am just going to call him and see if i can get info needed.
but, here's a question, the list states towing capacity of 907 lbs. but the book states that with only 2 passengers it can pull up to 3500. which is it??
Thanks
Lee
It should never weigh more then 1,400 Lbs. with up to 5 occupants in the vehicle or more then 2,000 lbs. with up to two occupants. It further goes on to say IF you have optional trailer towing package you can tow up to 2,900 lbs. with up to 5 occupants or up to 3,500 lbs. with up to two occupants. Even then it could be to heavy id your mountain climbing or its hotter then blazes out or you plan on driving 90MPH (the stuff you would expect)
Thanks
Lee
did talk to previous owner and he stated that HE was the one to install reese hitch to tow motorcyles and trailer. no trailer pkg. on vehicle. hmm.....