I think the official answer if you take it to dealer is: yes, you have to replace the whole insturment cluster. I have heard of people being able to replace the LED lights individualy, but it takes some knowledge and soldering skills to do it (plus getting the cluster out to work on it).
I am not a mechanic, but I recently had the groan/moan from the rear. I didn't crawl under it, but did do a quick eyeball and saw where fluid had been leaking. Dealer replaced bad seal and per my request changed the fluid and noise is gone. It has worked for others as well ( and I believe not just for leak condition). There is no guarantee it will work , but may be worth a try. The noise you hear is very sporatic as opposed to every time you take off from start, or turn (which might indicate wheaal bearing problem)?
Hi Kori I know it has been a while since you've had this problem but I was wondering if you fixed it and what had to be done. I have a '01 and now I am having problems the same problems(using the flashlight). Around what was your milege when this happend to you? Do you still have your aztek? I am scared its going to start giving me more problems.
Texasdaisy, I was wondering if you fixed your problem back in '05 with your 2003 Aztek? I have that problem now and was wondering how you fixed it, did you have to replace the whole cluster, and price range.
Ray Thank for your help. I took it to a repair place and he put it on trouble code computer thing and found L/H front wheel speed sensor. He quoted me for a wheel bearing?hub assembly over $350. I am looking at the other Abs problems (I think #205) and was thinkng we'd check that before I pay that. Also regarding the cluster, if anyone else you hear has these problems, he also told me he could get one at an autowreckers for approx $260. Way better price than a refurbished one at $595. And it would only cost .6 of an hour to do the labour.
One thing I don't know about is if you replace the IPC, the odometer is still correct, I would check on that. For the TC light I would also have the tech check for bad connecter and/or corrosion (or broken wire), might be better then paying for hub assembly only to find light still on. Good luck
After reading your comment, I had this problem checked at the same service shop that fixed the coolant problem. The diagnose is a bad wheel bearing in the left rear wheel. Is $442.45 a good price to replace a wheel bearing. I am inclining to good for it because there is a guarantee the noise will go away. What do you think?
Is the gear shift indicator next to the gear shift handle supposed to be lighted? It's the stupidest thing but I can't remember if it was like that when I bought the vehicle used. Over the winter I realized that I have no way of knowing if I'm in drive, reverse, park, etc., unless I look down at the shift column between the seats. Kind of hard to do in the dark! I can't remember if there was an indicator on the dash either. I must have a blown bulb somewhere????
Yes it should be and I have the same problem, mine is burnt out too. Makes it a pain sometimes when I have a brain fart and I can't get into the right gear.
I've had several problems with my '02 Aztek- I've loved it, but am now getting pretty frustrated. I bought it in '02 and a few months later, the battery died- had it jumped and took it to the dealer. The dealer ran a diagnostic, but couldn't find anything problems. In '03, I had to have the brakes replaced and the battery died again- same thing- the dealer couldn't find any problems. In '04, same thing- battery died- this time I replaced it and had to replace the brakes. The A/C went out in '05- I had that fixed along with the brakes and battery- another diagnostic and they couldn't find any problems- same thing in '06- brakes and battery. This year, the battery has died 4 times in the past 7 weeks- each time I've had it jumped and had the battery tested- but it's good. I tried to take it to Sears, but they won't look at it- they said it sounds like an electrical problem and won't touch it. I've spoken with a Pontiac dealer and they'll run a diagnostic for a couple hundred dollars.
Each time the battery dies, the lights go on and never go off, the rear hatch won't open, the horn goes off and will not stop until we pull the fuse, the door locks won't work, or an interior bell constantly goes off.
I've spoken with GM to see if this issue has been reported, but they said they have never received any calls about anything similar to what I've experienced. I've searched on a lot of message boards and have found similar issues. GM won't do anything because it's out of warranty, even though they have documentation that this has occurred every year.
Does anyone else know if a similar issue has been reported to GM? Also, any suggestions on the electrical problem?
I'd try checking with an independent mechanic for the diagnostic. I've gotten lucky a few times and had mine hooked to a machine for free. I'd hate to spend hundreds of dollars for something like that.
it might be ytour BCM on another site im on this guy is having the same problem if the BCM is malfunctioning it can leave lights on and do other things to drain the battery you have any other gremlins?
My Asstek has a mind of its own. There are times the a/c wont work, other times the windows don't work and even had the door locks screw up. To clear the problem I disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then everything is fine and works perfectly for awhile.... Things have cleared up just buy turning off then restarting the car. Is there just one computer or more? The engine has never missed a beat and always starts and runs well even when the grimlens are lose? Any suggestions?? I have thump tested relays and battery connections are clean. It seems to be getting more often as time goes on......
Sounds like it may be BCM related for sure (BCM has its hands in that stuff). It may be a connection problem of some sort. I would first check the hot connection to the underhood fuse box to make sure its tight and not corroded (I also heard recently of an owner that found that bracket had broken causing bad connection). You could also check my post #133 in Maintenance and Repair topic for what one owner did to clear up some strange electrical troubles. Its also possible the alternater is intermittantly not working correctly and low voltage confusing BCM, and of course its possible BCM is really failing. Good luck
Hhmm I wonder if the battery is dieing because the lights are on. Its also possible the alternater is intermittanly failing (If you were lucky a long duration active load test might find that). You could also look at my recent post in electrical problems topic for other things to check on.
Thank you!!!! It hasn't done it in a while so I'm keeping an eye on it. So far I have been told by several to replace what you mentioned. I love my Aztek, much to the dismay of many others...the car fits me well but it just sucks that for a lot of people the vehicle has been a streak of problems( I don't include myself yet because I haven't had any big problems, *knock on wood*) :shades:
Thank you for that information! I really appreciate it! It hasn't done it in a while (of course, now that I type that it will probably do it today!) I love my car, I hope and pray that buying an Aztek doesn't backfire on me like it has for what seems like quite a lot of people. :shades:
LOL i jsut realized my post seem kind of negative LOL Ive read a few stories bout trouble shooting everyhting and diagnostic charges only to find out the BCM is bad. makes me nervous my 02 still ahs its BCM and everytime the doors dont unlock when suppsoe to i panic.and typically when the battery is disconnected it resets it and works fine Good luck
Hi, You said that your traction control acts up too. What does it do? I've just recently started having problems with my 01. It displays the message "Service Traction Soon" and "Service Vehicle Soon" and the other day "Security" would flash also. It was weird, one would flash, then the other, and then the third. Does this sound anything like the problems you were having?
Hi lacajun, At fist my TC light just came on and I could hear it ( or something) then my service TC came on. I never got my Service vehicle soon light or my security light come on though. Before my TC light came on though, I lost the LED light to my odometer. I took it into a repair shop and he put it one the computer. He said it was my LF wheel sensor and suggested changeing my wheel hub as the sensor comes with it ( can't get it separately) Didn't help. Warning lights were cleared by repair guy and they came back on. He is now suggesting that the wires ( the plug attached to car) where you plug into the wheel sensor in the hub may be slowly breaking and when I turn with broken wires, will set off the sensor maybe. I haven't taken it off yet to see if those wires are broken etc. Will keep you updated when I do. Let me know what you find out too please. Do you have your odometer light still on? Guy said it was two separate things, but it was weird how just hours after my light went out on my odometer, did I start having TC problems. You can take it to Pontiac Dealership and they will put it on the computer for free. The warning light has to be on and don't shut off your car unless it consistantly goes on when you turn on the vehicle! Mine happened intermittently and they could only read it when it was on.
My Aztek normally starts OK in the morning. The rest of the day the car will stall out after three seconds. After a few attempts the car acts like the battery is dead when I try to start it in park - so I switch to neutral and continue trying to start the car that keeps stalling. It never takes more than 20 minutes to final start. After a rough start the gas gauge may register no fuel, the security light might appear, the RPM gauge might register zero. Currently GM mechanics are on day 6 trying to find the cause. Three other mechanics gave up. I had The GM mechanics check under the drivers seat for corrosion. Help
WHAT A MESS. What year Tek is it? When you say it acts like battery is dead, do you mean it doen't turn over at all, or turns over slowly. Does it turn over ok, but doesn't seem to fire? The part about shifting from park to neutral and having it make a differance would make me think about Brake Transaxle Interlock switch (or is that solenoid) either corrosion or broken/shorted wire. The problem with gauges may indicate power problem with BCM involvement (assuming engine is running at the time) and perhaps is do to bad connections to BCM and/or cable that runs to underhood fuse box (or maybe cabin fuse box trouble). Is the trouble later in day happen after vehicle has been sitting for more then just a few miutes after being shut off?
One mormiing after I dropped off my dog to an animal hospital, I started my Aztek with right foot on the barake. I heard clug! clug! clug! Then nothing. I could not take off the starter key, transmiision lever got stucked, could not be shifted. No elecrical power at all.
I called AAA, the car was jump started, dashboard lights came on, but engine won't crank. Tried several timnes, starter won't respond. AAA guy tesetd the battery, it's good.
As i was waiting for the tow truck, I started the car and it ran ok. So far my 'tek is running fine. My concern is this problem may come back.
Ok so for 3 weeks now, my car has been acting up...the lights all flash, door locks, etc...after a couple of flashes the Security light comes on(radio and locks and lights all shut off) and stays on until I disconnect the battery and reconnect. I had someone replace the wire from the battery to the fuse but its still happened after that....then I was told by the dealer there was a bolt loose on the positive connection, they tightened it (for $95!)? still a problem, now I need to bring it back to the dealer today (no longer covered under warranty!!) anyone had these problems????? seeing this website is alittle scary I love my aztek but now it seems maybe I should get rid of it while I still can????? I was also told my lower intake manifold gasket has a leake and I noticed that is another popular thread on here.....
I had my 'tek checked by the dealer and a local repair shop for that one morning incident. Battery connection, ran diagnostics, etc and found nothing.
Several months ago my 'tek was diagnosed by the dealer with a lower intake manifold gasket leak. Repair cost $820 plus tax.
Three weeks ago, I had the engine professionally cleaned. Then I had a local repair shop look into it. To my surprise, they could not see sign of manifold gasket leak.
Ok I checked the BCM via the fuse and it did not help with the intermittent A/C trouble. I agree it is going down hill and the cause of my other intermittent problems but I can't see the relationship between the BCM and my A/C intermittently not working (compressor doesn't kick in). Does anyone have a wiring diagram. Or is the A/C off a different module?
Thanks for all the input from the group! Kirk in Fla and it's getting hot!
I know my BCM is flaky but that doesn't seem to have any relationship to the A/C WORKING then not working. If it works when the car is started it will work great until somewhere in the future when the car is re-started. I have tried leaving the a/c in the ON position and tried turning it OFF before I turn the ignition off and it doesn't seem to matter. Some times it just won't kick in the compressor. I can turn the car off and re-start and sometimes it works and sometiMes not. When I get ticked off enough I disconnect the battery and its fine for a short while. ?? Is there another module that handles this... ?? Is it part of the main ignition module? ?? Does anyone have wiring diagrams??
I have a similar problem under the hood, there is a fuse that powers the heater motor and the heads up display. This fuse keeps blowing after it works for the day, i cant find a short in the wiring or figure out why i am blowing these fuses. Does anyone know how i can find out why this is happening. It is a 40 fuse and were i have to buy them they are 5.00 a piece this has been going on for about a month
I have previously posted in the elect section but never received replys so I'll try a new thread. History: Verious electrical problems related to the BCM but I can't find the relationship between the BCM and my intermittent A/C PROBLEM. Air works perfect when it works. Sometimes it will not kick in the compressor upon startup. If it works when initally truned on it will work until the car is re-started then it may or may not work. This is getting very frustrating due to the climate getting hot fast in Fla.
I am looking for wiring diagrams for the Asstek. Anyone know if there online anywhere? Is there another module on the car somewhere that would control the A/C. I have played with the fuse block and its relays when the problem exists and fuse 28 for the bcm with no success. Seems a battery disconnect works most often but not always. HELP its getting hotter by the day
Here's my story. I have a '02 Aztek. I've had my share of problems, big problems. Now I'm at the end of my rope. Car is paid off, would like to keep it for a while. Two weeks ago, I went out to start the car. Dead. AAA came out and jumped it, I took it to my mechanic in town who said that the battery was charging, but he would look at it. I ended up replacing the battery. Then, it went dead again. Jumped it again, took it back to the mechanic, he looked at everything he could think of but didn't find anything outstanding. I decided to take it to the dealer right from his garage. When I got in the car, the warning light was "service vehicle soon" and my high beam indicator was flashing wildly. I took the car to the Dealership. First they felt it was the ignition switch, then they were sure it was the PCM. I replaced it to the tune of $462. The car sat at the dealership for the entire weekend before I picked it up. Monday afternoon I picked the car up, ran some errands and parked it in the driveway at 8pm. By 6am when I was leaving for work, the thing was dead again.
It's back at the dealership and they can't find what's wrong with it!!!
i just got a used 2002 aztek with 54,000 and have started to hear a loud noise when i turn corners. it doesnt start to make the noise until the car is warmed up, it is if i have to make a tight turn. the noise will then start to happen with any small turn i make. i took it to the dealer i bought it and they didnt hear anything. i just took it back again because the noise is louder and more often. they heard the noise when i drove with them. then 2 days later they pretty much tell me that it is normal for it to do that due to being an AWD and the back transmission is just rubbing....but i own another AWD car that doesnt do that...does anyone had any ideas or suggestions....my 60 day warranty with the dealer is running out and i want them to fix it.....
I bought a NEW BCM and was going to change it out myself but... what a PITA... I haven't figured out how to remove the old unit. I tried sliding the whole fuse panel out the passenger side but the wiring from the drivers side doesn't have enough slack. I'm guessing the two blocks of wiring from the drivers side needs to be removed.. then the whole unit slides out so you can get the BCM off the top??? My buddy checked with the dealer and the BCM doesn't need "dealer programming"... we will see if I can ever get it installed.
I can think of a couple things it might be. If the noise is sorta grinding/metallic sound that perhaps changes a bit with speed it could be wheel bearing assembly. If it is more of a moan/groan kind of noise that comes and goes it is more likely issue with versa-trak fluid, being either low (leak perhaps?) or in need of change. Fixing the leak or sometimes just changing fluid hopefully should take care of it.
The Detroit News, April 24, 2007 reports that NHTSA said these vehicles may develop a fuel tank leak due to improper welding. Has anyone heard of a recall?
I'm considering buy a used 2004 AWD Pontiac Aztek. It has 36500 miles on it. The dealer wants $13,995 for it. What do you think? Is it a good decision?
Here is a link to the car at the dealership's website.
Well it does have a moonroof but I'll tell ya for that price you can get a Rally Aztek which will come with chrome rims, moonroof and typically the dvd player too. Plus a few other extras I'm sure. The car is a good choice, if you don't mind getting razzed for driving it. Remember a few years back it was voted ugliest vehicle on the road! lol
I just traded in my Aztek, still really like the car but wanted something new. I considered getting a Rally but went for a change. I got $4,500 on trade for my 01' with 90,000 miles on it.
My 2001 Aztek FWD has had problems since purchase with the wheel sensors. The original problem (occaisional brake vibrations) was never resolved under warranty because the dealer kept insiting they couldn't feel it. It finally became so bad another dealer checked the computer for errors and found a bad wheel sensor. Sensor changed, orginal problem gone after 4 years!!
Unfortunately, the story continues. I have had to replace the weheel sensors in the front (and the bearing asselmbly as they are one unit costing about $300) three more times since. The situation lately is a complete failure of the antilocks and traction system (all warning lights on and ABS applied at every stop!).
Is anyone else experiencing wheel sensor problems like this? Are the parts just crap from GM? Or could there be some other problem in my car that is causing them to fail so continually. The last one on the left wheel lasted 3 weeks before it had to be replaced (fortunately, under warranty).
Its been better than a week and no 'grimlens' to report after the BCM change out. I did lose the Radio... It is now 'LOCKED'. I believe this may have been my mistake. The AIR has worked consistently and no other problems have re-occured. It was plug and play but a PITA to access but if I had to do it again it would take less than an hour.
Thank you to the forum members. Kirk in Fla. is now ready for the summer.
My Aztek had the air conditioning unit fixed in 2005 to the tune of $1,000. A fan wasn't working properly. I just trader her in and the dealer is made because they had to drop $1,400 into the air conditioner because it yet again was on the fritz. Not sure the problem but I do know it wasn't blowing cold air prior to trade, we recharged it some but thought it just needed more freon.
I have notice on several attempts to start my Aztek, that it will hesitate a little and then start, but this morning, all it did was hesitate. It never started. It's not the battery. Someone at work said maybe it has something to do with the fuel injector. I don't know. Any suggestions?
Comments
I know it has been a while since you've had this problem but I was wondering if you fixed it and what had to be done. I have a '01 and now I am having problems the same problems(using the flashlight). Around what was your milege when this happend to you? Do you still have your aztek? I am scared its going to start giving me more problems.
I was wondering if you fixed your problem back in '05 with your 2003 Aztek? I have that problem now and was wondering how you fixed it, did you have to replace the whole cluster, and price range.
Thank for your help. I took it to a repair place and he put it on trouble code computer thing and found L/H front wheel speed sensor. He quoted me for a wheel bearing?hub assembly over $350. I am looking at the other Abs problems (I think #205) and was thinkng we'd check that before I pay that. Also regarding the cluster, if anyone else you hear has these problems, he also told me he could get one at an autowreckers for approx $260. Way better price than a refurbished one at $595. And it would only cost .6 of an hour to do the labour.
For the TC light I would also have the tech check for bad connecter and/or corrosion (or broken wire), might be better then paying for hub assembly only to find light still on. Good luck
Thanks, Ray80.
Each time the battery dies, the lights go on and never go off, the rear hatch won't open, the horn goes off and will not stop until we pull the fuse, the door locks won't work, or an interior bell constantly goes off.
I've spoken with GM to see if this issue has been reported, but they said they have never received any calls about anything similar to what I've experienced. I've searched on a lot of message boards and have found similar issues. GM won't do anything because it's out of warranty, even though they have documentation that this has occurred every year.
Does anyone else know if a similar issue has been reported to GM? Also, any suggestions on the electrical problem?
tek and having problems with the cooling fan not coming on @ idle.
Is there just one computer or more? The engine has never missed a beat and always starts and runs well even when the grimlens are lose?
Any suggestions?? I have thump tested relays and battery connections are clean. It seems to be getting more often as time goes on......
You said that your traction control acts up too. What does it do? I've just recently started having problems with my 01. It displays the message "Service Traction Soon" and "Service Vehicle Soon" and the other day "Security" would flash also. It was weird, one would flash, then the other, and then the third. Does this sound anything like the problems you were having?
lacajun
At fist my TC light just came on and I could hear it ( or something) then my service TC came on. I never got my Service vehicle soon light or my security light come on though. Before my TC light came on though, I lost the LED light to my odometer.
I took it into a repair shop and he put it one the computer. He said it was my LF wheel sensor and suggested changeing my wheel hub as the sensor comes with it ( can't get it separately) Didn't help. Warning lights were cleared by repair guy and they came back on. He is now suggesting that the wires ( the plug attached to car) where you plug into the wheel sensor in the hub may be slowly breaking and when I turn with broken wires, will set off the sensor maybe. I haven't taken it off yet to see if those wires are broken etc. Will keep you updated when I do. Let me know what you find out too please. Do you have your odometer light still on? Guy said it was two separate things, but it was weird how just hours after my light went out on my odometer, did I start having TC problems.
You can take it to Pontiac Dealership and they will put it on the computer for free. The warning light has to be on and don't shut off your car unless it consistantly goes on when you turn on the vehicle! Mine happened intermittently and they could only read it when it was on.
josieandi
I called AAA, the car was jump started, dashboard lights came on, but engine won't crank. Tried several timnes, starter won't respond. AAA guy tesetd the battery, it's good.
As i was waiting for the tow truck, I started the car and it ran ok. So far my 'tek is running fine. My concern is this problem may come back.
Also, can ayone tell me where to get a good repair manual for my Aztek, and the approximate cost?
Thank you for your help!!
Several months ago my 'tek was diagnosed by the dealer with a lower intake manifold gasket leak. Repair cost $820 plus tax.
Three weeks ago, I had the engine professionally cleaned. Then I had a local repair shop look into it. To my surprise, they could not see sign of manifold gasket leak.
Looks like, the mystery of the Aztek.
So far my 2001 yellow Aztek is doing pretty good.
Thanks for all the input from the group!
Kirk in Fla and it's getting hot!
?? Is there another module that handles this...
?? Is it part of the main ignition module?
?? Does anyone have wiring diagrams??
History: Verious electrical problems related to the BCM but I can't find the relationship between the BCM and my intermittent A/C PROBLEM. Air works perfect when it works. Sometimes it will not kick in the compressor upon startup. If it works when initally truned on it will work until the car is re-started then it may or may not work. This is getting very frustrating due to the climate getting hot fast in Fla.
I am looking for wiring diagrams for the Asstek. Anyone know if there online anywhere?
Is there another module on the car somewhere that would control the A/C. I have played with the fuse block and its relays when the problem exists and fuse 28 for the bcm with no success. Seems a battery disconnect works most often but not always.
HELP its getting hotter by the day
Two weeks ago, I went out to start the car. Dead. AAA came out and jumped it, I took it to my mechanic in town who said that the battery was charging, but he would look at it. I ended up replacing the battery. Then, it went dead again. Jumped it again, took it back to the mechanic, he looked at everything he could think of but didn't find anything outstanding. I decided to take it to the dealer right from his garage. When I got in the car, the warning light was "service vehicle soon" and my high beam indicator was flashing wildly. I took the car to the Dealership. First they felt it was the ignition switch, then they were sure it was the PCM. I replaced it to the tune of $462. The car sat at the dealership for the entire weekend before I picked it up. Monday afternoon I picked the car up, ran some errands and parked it in the driveway at 8pm. By 6am when I was leaving for work, the thing was dead again.
It's back at the dealership and they can't find what's wrong with it!!!
Any suggestions. Please help...
I'll post my results in a week or so after I receive the BCM.
kIRK
Thanks - looking forward to it!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My buddy checked with the dealer and the BCM doesn't need "dealer programming"... we will see if I can ever get it installed.
The Detroit News, April 24, 2007 reports that NHTSA said these vehicles may develop a fuel tank leak due to improper welding.
Has anyone heard of a recall?
Here is a link to the car at the dealership's website.
2004 Aztek
I just traded in my Aztek, still really like the car but wanted something new. I considered getting a Rally but went for a change. I got $4,500 on trade for my 01' with 90,000 miles on it.
Unfortunately, the story continues. I have had to replace the weheel sensors in the front (and the bearing asselmbly as they are one unit costing about $300) three more times since. The situation lately is a complete failure of the antilocks and traction system (all warning lights on and ABS applied at every stop!).
Is anyone else experiencing wheel sensor problems like this? Are the parts just crap from GM? Or could there be some other problem in my car that is causing them to fail so continually. The last one on the left wheel lasted 3 weeks before it had to be replaced (fortunately, under warranty).
Thanks.
-Gary.
The AIR has worked consistently and no other problems have re-occured. It was plug and play but a PITA to access but if I had to do it again it would take less than an hour.
Thank you to the forum members.
Kirk in Fla. is now ready for the summer.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper