It's MB S550. This is people that I know, they have some financial problems and need to sell it fast for cash. I think you may say it's special car )) especially for the money I'm paying.
Or you want to save the time and trip expense, give it to carmax.com to ship over or call the automobile hauler to ship to their NY station or to your door.
Now i understand! I would contact the Florida DMV or visit their website to learn more about their car buying process. There is nothing unusual about your request. it is an out of state purchase except instead of the states being next to one another, they are 1200 miles apart.
Do some reading on the Florida and NY DMV website. You should find your answer there. Since it is a friend of yours, fly down or take the train and stay a few days.
1999 Ford Escort Wagon SE mileage 43,800. Did Carfax report. Says it was a rental for the last 9 years 6 months in Pennsylvania and the last reported mileage was 20,293 at emissions inspection.
sold 7/24/08 in PA mileage reported 31,585. Owner moved to Indiana and they issued Not actual mileage title on 8/19/08 at 33,494.
It looks very clean like it could be that mileage. Runs rough though. I am going to get a friend knowledgeable about cars to look at it. Owner had papers that she said were from previous owner. Said she had it tuned up a year ago and it didn't help.
Over 9 years seems a long time to be a rental. Any thoughts. Should I run? :lemon:
I saw the title. It said something about not actual mileage on it. The owner claimed not to know what that meant. Now I know that the state can classify the car as having wrong mileage. It sold anyway. Thanks for all the answers.
I think the rental history is irrelevant for a car this old, and of limited value, and is only distracting your attention from the car. Just have the car inspected and let it speak for itself either yea or nay from your mechanic.
Hi, I am buying a 08 VW Rabbit from a private seller who has been leasing the vehicle. I am not sure how the sale of this works. We have agreed on a price and I am supposed to meet the seller at the bank tomorrow, where my cashier's check will be verified and I will get a sales receipt and they will sign a release of liability to me. Then I have to wait about a week until the leasing company sends the seller the "pink slip" (i am in california) and then i will get that from the seller, at which point i can reigster the vehicle in my name. does that sound right? i have never purchased a car from someone who still had to pay off the leasing company. will a sales receipt from the seller be sufficient and safe for me to hand over the payment in full? i am wondering if anyone has done this before, or has any well-founded advice/experience with this type of transaction.
I think it would be better if you purchased the car directly from the leasing company and then just gave the leasor his profit (which I bet he's making). He might not mind this if you remind him that he may have to pay sales tax if he takes your money and buys the car from the leasing company directly---whereas if you buy it, then only you pay the sales tax. You two need to talk more about the best way to do this.
Also, it's wise to verify that he's the actual leaseholder.
hi everyone, i saw an ad on craigslist for a 2006 highlander v6 limited for $5,000 and emailed and inquired about it. it was listed in the chicago section, but i got a reply stating the car is in seattle washington. the seller stated they are being deployed, and need to sell it quick-thus the low price. they gave me a vin number-it has 36,000 miles on it-how can i check it out to see if it is legit? they also sent lots of pictures of it-this sounds way too good to be true to me and i'm sure all of you will agree with that. how can i check this car out being so far away? should i bother buying a carfax on it or just walk away?
As shifty mentioned, it's a total scam. If you look at the top of every craigslist cars/trucks for sale page, you'll see a giant warning that says something about "Offers to ship vehicles are 100% fraudulent." If you click on that warning link, you'll get to a larger warning page placed by craigslist, indicating that 99% of scams on craigslist can be avoided by dealing locally, and face-to-face.
The scammer doesn't have a car. He only has PHOTOS of a car.
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I have my car for sale. The buyer is out of state and is buying the car for is daughter that goes to college in state during the school year. The issue is the buyer is only in town through this holiday weekend and will be returning sometime next late month when his daughter comes back to school. I have a few concerns:
1) Payment - he's open to how to make the payment and working out the details transfer of ownership. He's willing to do cashiers check, wire transfers, or possibly cash - but the last wouldn't be possible until he came back next month since he's leaving town Tuesday a.m. He's also willing to pay a cash deposit to hold the car.
2) DMV transfer - let's say I take a private check but hold on to the car/pink slip until it clears the banks and then have this local family take the car. How would DMV transfers work in that case. Does the new owner have to be there for the transfer?
Take a deposit, and then when his wire clears or check clears with a few days, release the car and title to the local family member (all you have to do is sign the title in the areas specified, and in some states, send in a Release of Liability, if the plates go with the car in your state).
Under no circumstances give either the car or the title to anyone until your payment is fully cleared and sitting in your bank account, with no "pending" status. A cashier's check is easily forged and may even be accepted for deposit (your local bank may have no way of knowing if it is a fake or not, until they try to cash it themselves).
And don't "hold" the car for 30 days or until he comes back---it only takes a few days to initiate a wire transfer or write and send a check as soon as he returns home from this weekend.
Depending on what time he is leaving Tuesday, you can meet him at your bank and they can confirm with his bank that he has the correct amount in his account.
True enough, but he could stop payment even if the $$$ is in his account.
"Trust but Verify".
Why might he do that? Well, what if he writes a check, based on the bank saying "yeah, he has that in his account" and he takes the car, and it breaks down the next day---he might very well cancel the check, with some justification perhaps.
Long story short, I am going to buy a car from one of my parents. They financed it when they bought it new, which resulted in a high monthly payment. I originally was going to take those payments over, but since the payments are high, was going to take a loan out to re-finance it. The problem then is paying taxes etc on it, and incurring those extra costs. What is the best and most cost-effective way to transfer ownership? My parents would be very flexible with whatever option I come up with.
Thanks very much robr2, that's very helpful and indeed I am in MA. As a follow up question, would you suggest going through a bank or credit union to get the best rate on a loan?
My mother wants to sell her car to a friend who lives in MD. I also live in MD, and can deliver documents such as the notarized signed title and bill of sale (a MD-required item). The car is owned outright by my mother, but the friend wants to get a loan from her credit union. The friend's credit union is insisting that in order for the loan to be finalized, the owner (my mother) must be present. Is this a common practice, or is this policy out of the ordinary?
I'm toying with the idea of buying one of those beautiful rust free Florida cars and then driving it back to where I live in NY. I'll be registering it in NY but how do I get clearance to drive it to NY?
NY requires a title document. Does Florida have an actual title document that the seller signs over or is there some other form of ownership proof like a "pink slip" as in California? I'd hate to get the vehicle back up here and find I can't register it.
Lastly, do you get some sort of temp tags to do the drive up the coast? I'm not sure how that works either.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
A California "pink slip" is a title, and yeah, Florida has a title.
Best thing I could suggest is getting info about this right from the horse's mouth.
So click on the city where your dream car is located (if you know) and it'll show you the contact info you need to call Florida DMV and ask these questions:
Remember, you're talking to an upstate NY boy. Up here the cars are delivered new with rusted out fenders. We've been to the Tampa area and the cars are showroom new in comparision. I've seen a lot of 30 yo cars that look like they just rolled off the assembly line.
Thanks for the link.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Well you don't get road salt down there but if the car lives near the ocean, you are going to find at least exterior rust on trim parts, etc and if the car had any leaks you'll see it in trunk wells, floorpans, etc.--they get a lot of rain in parts of FLA.
Tried scanning the other pages, but couldn't find the answer... if you sell a financed car to a private party, what's the best way to coordinate the payoff and title transfer?
No I mean since I have yet to sell my car I will need to finance more currently but once I sell my car I want to apply that to the loan, would that require refinancing?
You certainly could send the finance company the $7k after you get it. However, it will do nothing to lower your payment. It will just help you make fewer payments. So as long as you are ok with the higher payment, then you are good to go.
Only other issue in your way is if a bank will give you a car loan while you already have a car loan on another car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm looking to sell my car at a good price at no cost........ I'm trying to find a place in which there's a fairly good chance of getting prospective buyers........
Craigslist is good but you have to know how to attract the right kind of buyer. Post GOOD photos (you only get to post 4) and lots of description on condition, options, mileage, owner history and if you have the info, the CARFAX report.
To sell at a "good price" you need a) a good car to start with and b) skillful composition and presentation in the advert.
Common errors in car ads:
1. Lousy photos---get a good camera, take your time.
2. Misspelling the car's name (bad idea). My favorites are "Camero" and "Alpha Romero". :P
3. No details (is it an automatic? Does it have X or Y? Mileage? Carfax?
4. No price (very annoying)
5. Harsh language, e.g. "take it or leave it"/ "no flakes"/ price is firm, no haggling/ if you don't know what these cars are worth, don't waste my time/ etc etc
I see #3 frequently - very few details, and sometimes the ad even says "call for details." Um... why am I going to waste my time calling when I can just read the ads that include details? The ad is free. It's disrespectful to your audience to ask them to accommodate pure laziness.
If you visit the real-world trade-in values discussion here, right above the post-a-message box is a list of details we ask you to include to get a more accurate price evaluation. If you use that as a checklist when writing a for sale ad, you'll be in good shape relative to the competition.
Re: #2 - how about that Camaray?
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Maybe we should add to the list of car-ad no-nos. Some are really popular, though:
- "Will Sell Fast" - Pictures out of date: Snow on the ground in August; fall foliage in May, etc. - Junked-up trunks & interiors - Details that aren't. E.g. the Taurus with the "3.0 l V6." Yeah, but which one? Or the conversion van with "bench makes into a bed." Really? - Listing problems and advertising "easily fixed." - Even better: "Needs a little TLC" without stating what's up.
OTOH, I've heard people say they always leave out one or two important details, while providing plenty of useful information, so people have a reason to call.
Terry of blessed memory once advised me on leaving out possible deal killers; like a short bed on a fullsize truck. He said some people won't even look at it if it's a shorty, when in reality it might be big enough for them. So leave it out; if they ask, it's a short bed, if not, leave it alone. Sure enough, the guy who bought my 07 Silverado was coming from a 95 F150 longbed and had been looking for another. Mine was a good deal, so he took it anyway.
Yeah, I get annoyed by the "won't last long!" ads that are re-posted every day for months. Most of the marketing hype language that consumers ignore in dealership ads, for whatever reason, is irritating in FSBO ads.
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Do some reading on the Florida and NY DMV website. You should find your answer there. Since it is a friend of yours, fly down or take the train and stay a few days.
sold 7/24/08 in PA mileage reported 31,585. Owner moved to Indiana and they issued Not actual mileage title on 8/19/08 at 33,494.
It looks very clean like it could be that mileage. Runs rough though. I am going to get a friend knowledgeable about cars to look at it. Owner had papers that she said were from previous owner. Said she had it tuned up a year ago and it didn't help.
Over 9 years seems a long time to be a rental. Any thoughts. Should I run? :lemon:
Of far more concern would be the fact that the present owner has tried to get it running right and hasn't been able to do so.
I don't think I've ever seen a car more than two or three years old at ANY car rental agency. Anyone else?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'd run the other way on that one. It spent time sitting doing nothing?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Then I have to wait about a week until the leasing company sends the seller the "pink slip" (i am in california) and then i will get that from the seller, at which point i can reigster the vehicle in my name.
does that sound right? i have never purchased a car from someone who still had to pay off the leasing company.
will a sales receipt from the seller be sufficient and safe for me to hand over the payment in full?
i am wondering if anyone has done this before, or has any well-founded advice/experience with this type of transaction.
thanks in advance!
Also, it's wise to verify that he's the actual leaseholder.
Exactly---because it doesn't exist---well, the truck DOES exist, but it's a cut and paste from someone else's ad.
The scammer doesn't have a car. He only has PHOTOS of a car.
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That's a pretty lame scam. Should have at least made the price $12k to make it sound halfway reasonable.
I think they are counting on impulse rather than reason.
1) Payment - he's open to how to make the payment and working out the details transfer of ownership. He's willing to do cashiers check, wire transfers, or possibly cash - but the last wouldn't be possible until he came back next month since he's leaving town Tuesday a.m. He's also willing to pay a cash deposit to hold the car.
2) DMV transfer - let's say I take a private check but hold on to the car/pink slip until it clears the banks and then have this local family take the car. How would DMV transfers work in that case. Does the new owner have to be there for the transfer?
Under no circumstances give either the car or the title to anyone until your payment is fully cleared and sitting in your bank account, with no "pending" status. A cashier's check is easily forged and may even be accepted for deposit (your local bank may have no way of knowing if it is a fake or not, until they try to cash it themselves).
And don't "hold" the car for 30 days or until he comes back---it only takes a few days to initiate a wire transfer or write and send a check as soon as he returns home from this weekend.
"Trust but Verify".
Why might he do that? Well, what if he writes a check, based on the bank saying "yeah, he has that in his account" and he takes the car, and it breaks down the next day---he might very well cancel the check, with some justification perhaps.
Thanks.
Based on your user name, you might be in MA. There is no sales tax in MA on sales between close relatives. Check out this link:
http://www.mass.gov/rmv/regs/reg3.htm
It's an '08 used car, for what it's worth.
Thanks again
Thanks in advance for any replies or information.
NY requires a title document. Does Florida have an actual title document that the seller signs over or is there some other form of ownership proof like a "pink slip" as in California? I'd hate to get the vehicle back up here and find I can't register it.
Lastly, do you get some sort of temp tags to do the drive up the coast? I'm not sure how that works either.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Best thing I could suggest is getting info about this right from the horse's mouth.
So click on the city where your dream car is located (if you know) and it'll show you the contact info you need to call Florida DMV and ask these questions:
FLORIDA DMV OFFICES
What makes you think that all cars in Florida are "rust free"? If the car lives near the beach, you may find plenty of rust.
Remember, you're talking to an upstate NY boy. Up here the cars are delivered new with rusted out fenders. We've been to the Tampa area and the cars are showroom new in comparision. I've seen a lot of 30 yo cars that look like they just rolled off the assembly line.
Thanks for the link.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
But a car in a garage will probably be fine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
but I owe money on my current car.
I have about 7,000 in equity in my car though
Can I do a loan with the $7,000 included in the loan and once I sell my car put the $7,000 towards my loan?
There is a better chance that the next rapture prophesy will come true.
Only other issue in your way is if a bank will give you a car loan while you already have a car loan on another car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
To sell at a "good price" you need a) a good car to start with and b) skillful composition and presentation in the advert.
Common errors in car ads:
1. Lousy photos---get a good camera, take your time.
2. Misspelling the car's name (bad idea). My favorites are "Camero" and "Alpha Romero". :P
3. No details (is it an automatic? Does it have X or Y? Mileage? Carfax?
4. No price (very annoying)
5. Harsh language, e.g. "take it or leave it"/ "no flakes"/ price is firm, no haggling/ if you don't know what these cars are worth, don't waste my time/ etc etc
Also, you have to price it right. If you get no phone calls, or 2 or 3 walk aways, you're above market most likely.
If you visit the real-world trade-in values discussion here, right above the post-a-message box is a list of details we ask you to include to get a more accurate price evaluation. If you use that as a checklist when writing a for sale ad, you'll be in good shape relative to the competition.
Re: #2 - how about that Camaray?
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Some are really popular, though:
- "Will Sell Fast"
- Pictures out of date: Snow on the ground in August; fall foliage in May, etc.
- Junked-up trunks & interiors
- Details that aren't. E.g. the Taurus with the "3.0 l V6." Yeah, but which one? Or the conversion van with "bench makes into a bed." Really?
- Listing problems and advertising "easily fixed."
- Even better: "Needs a little TLC" without stating what's up.
OTOH, I've heard people say they always leave out one or two important details, while providing plenty of useful information, so people have a reason to call.
Terry of blessed memory once advised me on leaving out possible deal killers; like a short bed on a fullsize truck. He said some people won't even look at it if it's a shorty, when in reality it might be big enough for them.
So leave it out; if they ask, it's a short bed, if not, leave it alone. Sure enough, the guy who bought my 07 Silverado was coming from a 95 F150 longbed and had been looking for another. Mine was a good deal, so he took it anyway.
Cheers -Mathias
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