We are aware of the login problems affecting the forums, and appreciate your patience as we work on a fix.
Did you recently purchase a new Tesla, Rivian or Lucid vehicle directly from the manufacturer and willing to share how your experience compared to previous vehicle purchases made through a traditional dealer? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 2/19 for details.
Comments
Took in today to the dealer. What a mess!
They say it has 3 exhaust leaks, 2 air-fuel sensors in the front are bad, one in the back is bad, and 3 O2 sensors and possibly a spark plug/coil need to be replaced. The whole thing would be over $2000. The car is worth around $3500 for trade in if you believe Kelly Blue Book, so I think we're shopping for a new car this weekend. I've had no major issues until now. Very disappointed that I couldn't get it to 200K, but I get 7 good years out of it, and it looks like hell anyway. I'm thinking of getting a new HL I love the car so much!
2. Turn off ignition switch
3. Hold odometer stem in & turn key to on position
4. Turn key back to off and release stem
Note: this works on first try for me
I have error P0161- bad downnstream oxygen sensors
I want to disconnect both downstream oxygen sensors and need to know how to avoid getting engine check light when oxygen sensors are disconnected. Is there a way to loop-connect those 4 wires to make engine check light go away? That way check light will be working to alert me of other error codes
In case you wonder why I do not want to replace downstream sensors what is the purpose of spending $500+ to find out if catalytic converter is failing. I am not going to replace cat. conv. anyway
You need a code reader, available for use at many auto parts stores (Advance Auto around here), then some web research to find more info on the code.
I think the most commonly discussed causes on this list have been Oxygen sensors.
What "item" are you talking about?
Buy a pressure washer about three weeks ago, and the wife decided to wash the HL with it. Lo and behold, here they are again on the dash. After two weeks, I disconnected the battery and restored. Lights went away. After a few times of driving, they are back on and the SUV cannot be inspected.
Any ideas of where a connection might be, that could cause this so I can begin to troubleshoot? (The engine compartment was not opened for the wash)
Thanks for any replies.
Can anyone tell me the meaning of these two codes, and possible solutions? I posted about washing the car and having these show up. I think something must have gotten wet to cause the codes.
Thanks.
Thanks for your reply.
call the dealer and give them your VIN number, ask if there were any recalls for your vehicle.
since the day i had mine fixed, i haven't had my CE come back on! thankfully!!
2. There are only 3 on the V6, despite what the manual says. Bank 1 is the rear exhaust manifold, Bank 2 is in the front manifold, and the third (post cat) is after the converter just before the muffler.
3. Please see posts 4360 and 4362 in the Maintenance and Repair forum.
4. There is no recall for O2 sensors. Someone posted a general comment that there was, but was not able to provide any detail.
Oh yes, and this is relevant. The time-to-change interval on these sensors is 100,000 miles. I had my first failure right after 100k and this second one at 105k. So, I suppose I shouldn't be surprised.
Please respond to the cost of a service for the problem at hand and one mechanic said that the service may be a bit pricey since the intake manifold has to come out...(Note: this is what I think I heard)
If the timing belt was replaced at 68k when is it due to be replaced again? Words from the wise are appreciated.
I then read as much as I could find on the web about this problem. To cut a long story short, I found that cleaning the MAF Sensor with an aerosol cleaner and adding a new air filter solved the problem (I hope). I have now driver about 160km (100 miles) with no problem.
I found that the backside (away from the air filter side of the sensor was filthy and my theory was that it would therefore take a greater airflow to cool it to the reading that the on-board system wanted. In turn this meant that the engine was running lean, hence the code 1130 reading.
So I would encourage anyone who has a problem like this to first try the cleaning the MAF sensor/change filter routine. It takes 10 minutes to do and costs very little – under $30.
This seems like the best time to bring this to Toyota's attention. I'm tired of shelling out all this money for a CEL fix (oxygen sensors on bank 1 & 2) that hasn't addressed the problem, clearing the codes so my CEL can go off. I can't tell if it is something serious or defected.
TOYOTA'S CONTACT INFORMATION: If you have additional questions or concerns that have not been addressed here, please contact the Toyota Customer Experience Center at 1-800-331-4331. The Toyota Customer Experience Center hours are: Mon.–Fri. 5:00 am-6:00 pm PST, Sat.–Sun. 7:00 am-4:00 pm PST.
Bank 2 is the front bank, and the O2 sensor is screwed into the exhaust manifold, staring at you when you open the hood.
I received this message from a Good Man that I would like to say Thanks.
This is what he sent. It worked for me before, but this time, it is not working. I put synthetic oil in mine and don't need to change it as often and I still get the light. It has worked a couple of times for me but this time I am having a problem getting it to work.
I was able to reset by holding odometer button down while turning off ignition switch and turning ignition switch to on and watching dashing go from 5 to 0 and the maintenace odometer resetting to zero. The Light would go off. Let me know if it works for you.
Your "parts guy" is either misinformed or lying.
had the same thing happen. Again, pulled off and again the light went out. Went to a local dealership to have things checked out. The tech checked things out and could find no problems. Fluid still red and no burnt smell to the fluid. Left the dealership in good shape but the cycle happened again only after 50 miles. All of these cycles have happened on the interstate doing 65-70. There is no hard shifting, slipping, or any other noticeable issues. The vehicle was not close being over-loaded. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?
I'm suspicious of the timing of your problem just after a service. If a PCV valve was on their laundry list I'd discuss that with them.
What did your engine do after you put four quarts in it? What do you mean by "limped?" Were you just being careful or did the car not run right? Exactly why are they saying it's "ruined?"
You probably wont have a problem, if you do just take it back there and make sure they reattach it