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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • Excellent advice as far as working with dealer....mine has been super so far and really has made a huge difference. I also have called the ford customer service # in the manual, but they never call back (I think they fwd the wueries to dealer).

    At this point, Ford had submitted a buy back offer. It i simperative you make complaint early, and document it. They attempt to charge you for mileage used, I have mine frozen at zero as I made complaint to dealer svc mgr within 10 miles of picking up vehicle.

    I think FoMoCo prefers this to consumer going with Lemon Law. I live in CT, they have excellent consumer protection website. They figure 4 visits (I have 9) and/or 30 days without use of vehicle in 2 years constitutes Lemon

    I did everything EXCEPT go for half hour ride with dealer when I picked it up, my mistake.

    At this point, Road Force balancing, 2 sets of tires (always OEM for some reason?), driveshaftremoval and balancing (twice), and running engine with driveshaft out still gives vibration at approx 1800 RPM.

    I hope 2004 does better for me, I am hoping 5.4 may be smoother than 4.6

  • Is the buy back offer reasonable? I would hope so, if they have frozen the mileage.
  • Thanks for all the input folks. I am having the tires replaced this week (with OEM as you said Dan) and hope this may help. I am also curious Dan if the Buyback offer was legitimate and/or fair. I would love to have this option now so that I could reevaluate and start over. Thanks for any input out there!!!
  • The offer is MSRP paid, as credit towards new MSRP. I do not want to sound whiny, but I am not thrilled about coughing up approx 1800 dollars for 2004 all because my 2003 was No Good. I researched the 2003 Lariat to death, waited for the truck I wanted, and got a Lemon. Now I am paying more for a 2004?

    The process is still underway. I have not sent in my CT State Lemon Law request, but have been assured I have a water tight case. I am, however, going to make a deal with FoMoCo if they give me anything close to an even swap. even though I like the looks and interior of my 2003 better. I am HOPING the 2004 has resolved vibration issue
  • Hi again,

    I wanted to make sure my point on tires is clear. Instead of BR Goodrich Long Trails and Ford wheels that came on new truck, I thought it would make sense to try another brand entirely. I located another set of 17" tires and wheels, but Ford wanted dealer to stay with OEM? Tire store was willing to try, but said upfront that IF I invested approx 800 dollars on all new wheels/tires, they did not want them back a week later. Road Force balancing indicated a definite problem with wheel/tire, and there's enough weight on my wheels to start a lead mine.

    It turns out that tires were/are only a portion of problem, as they kept trying driveshaft balance, drivebelts, and vibration persisted, but I still feel aftermarket tires and wheels were large source of the defect.
  • Well if you spell Ford backwards it's DROF. I DROF A FORD and converted from Dodge. I hope I made the right decision.

    As luck would have it, the very day I drof my shinny new Bright Red FX4 home, a noise from the left front drive train became a huge concern. The next morning at the service line I was told that none of the new Fords have come in for mechanical problems, only oil changes. It really stumped them. Upon test driving the truck with listening devices all over the bottom of it, a bad hub was diagnosed. We left it there for repairs with the understanding we were not in the market for a PROJECT VEHICLE. Continuing with us taking delivery of this one would be based on whether or not it turned out to be a simple fix, and/or if they could find an exact replacement.

    Well the hub was not the exact problem. The noise continued. The diaphragm actuator was not fully disengaging causing the splines to clank against one other. I really am disappointed that me as a fresh convert to Ford got such a bad start.

    Due to no other exact replacement vehicles any where in San Antonio, we are taking the leap of faith that this is the only problem we encounter!

    Any other problems out there with the new Fords?
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,711
    Is the 5-speed transmission in the 1997-03 generation still the same Mazda M50D as found in the previous body style? If so, I have heard nothing but negative things about this tranny.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Check for missing or broken shackles, too. Sometimes the shackles will fall off, and you don't realize it because you hadn't noticed them until they're gone.
  • I own a 89 f-150,v-8,5.0 with a auto tranny and i notice when driving i get a jerk which seem to be coming from under the truck every time the tranny
    change gear and this feels rough,can anyone give me an idea of what's going on!so i can deal with it before too late.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    It jerks when upshifting or downshifting? Which gear? If this is a new condition, then yes, I would say a problem is developing.
    Let's see, in '89 I don't think Ford was making any fully electronic transmissions, so unless it's jerking from 4-3 then your problem is most likely mechanical. You need to see what shift control mechanisms you have on that truck, probably some type of throttle rod and/or a vaccum modulator. Failure or misadjustment of these compontents can cause odd shift patterns. If it's an internal problem, like accumulator valve seals hardening and sticking, then the solution could be as simple as a fluid and filter change. I've had really good luck with Bar's Leaks transmission seal conditioner, a translucent red liquid available at parts stores. It's done a good job smooting out some old Ford transmissions that I've owned, added in with a fresh fluid change. Good luck.
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    wijoco mentioned what i would suggest.the AOD transmission would not have a vacuum would have either linkage or a cable to control shifts.i would check these for a binding condition especially at the transmission.
  • My f-150 thus shift with a jerk in all gears when
    shifting upward it may not be the tranny,it maybe
    something else which is jerking,the truck has done that since i bought it in may of 02,i have to do some work on the truck,which i did like
    change transfer case seal,gaskets fluid etc.
    I have to check the mounts to see what condition
    they are in,I like this truck and need to keep it working.
  • Anyone else getting bad reception from the Ford radios in their SCrew? Dealership changed out radio with 'updated' model and problem persisted. Tech working case says he see this problem all the time, and swapping antenna doesn't seem to help, either. Note: new 'updated' radio has noisy fan.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Is it a static sound or just a loss of radio signal?
  • Loss of signal; words/lyrics are slurred and indistinct. It is not as noticeable on instrumental
  • lennxlennx Posts: 73
    I would say the radio reception is not a strong suit in the F-150 - on par with our Venture. My Camry had better reception.
  • The after market replacement rotors lasted longer than the stock ones but, the vibration is back. Has any body tried a different composition pad?
  • I love Ford trucks. I have owned Ford trucks for over 20 years. I just traded my 2001 F250 for a 2004 F150. Better mileage, smoother ride, new look had me hooked. Well after 150 miles, with my kids in the truck, I went to stop and the pedal hit the floor. I hit the emergency brake and limped into the dealer. Well, they had to replace the master brake cylinder. I hope this was a one time problem or Ford had better start selling something else if thier 25% market share in F150's continue to deliver this type of disapointment.
  • I'm sure if there was a problem with every master cylinder in every 2004 F-series, we would hear about it on dateline by now. Sorry to hear it happened to you, but do realize that you can't produce and sell the most popular truck in North America and not have a few defective parts come through the assembly line. 150 miles could mean it never showed any signs of a problem, until the failure. Again, sorry it happened.
  • My 90 F-150 won't come out of low range. The shifter will move and all the linkages to the transfer case are operating properly, but when I shift I stay in 4 low range. Any ideas. Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Check the final part of the linkage that attaches to the shaft coming from the t/c, to see if it's moving while the shaft remains still.
  • Shaft does move with linkage.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    In that case the t/c needs to be removed and opened up to determine the problem. A t/c is pretty basic so a repair shouldn't be too difficult/expensive.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You're welcome!

  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry to read about your brake problem with the new truck. I'm glad that you and your family wasn't in a crash as a result. I agree with Michael. With that many units being produced and sold, it's inevitable that a few defective parts are going to slip through QC. Something like that could've happened on any vehicle, new or old. I've had it happen with a brand new replacement unit.
  • Hi hope everyone had a happy new year. I own a 99 f-150 with 75k miles on it and need to replace the upper and lower ball joints. I have replaced them before on other cars. My repair manual states that the upper and lower have to be replace with the upper and lower control arm and the ball joints themselves are not replacable by themselves only. Is this true and how hard is it to replace them. I have read on previous posts that some people are paying from $600 to $900 to replace them. They don't look to difficult to replace just want to know if anyone else has replaced there own a how hard was it.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You do not have to replace the upper and lower control arms to replace the ball joints. I think you will find that Ford only spares the joint with the A-arm. However, after market ball joint replacements are available. You will need to drill out and remove the rivets to remove the old ball joint. The new joint will be re-installed using bolts.

    See your local auto parts jobber and they can help you.

    Good luck,
  • forgot to tell you that it is a 4wd f-150 anf I have been to the auto parts store and they are one assembly with the ball joint attached to it.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Ah! Okay. Yes, I was refering to a 2wd version. We've replaced them on our F150 fleet and I know the joint is sold separately for them.

    In all honesty I didn't know that the 4x4s required the whole arm.

    Best of luck,
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