2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
edited March 2014 in Ford
Here is the new place to discuss your f-series
Super Duty Problems.

Thanks for your participation. ;-)

Edmunds.com/Roving Host


  • shotgun1shotgun1 Member Posts: 57
    O.K. I'll be the first. 2k 250 5.4L auto ESF4X4 4:10LS Supercab 11k. My motor was built in 10/99. I developed a "Tick" when cold, at around 9k miles. Thought it was a lifter or worse(piston slap) Was informed that piston slap problem is non-issue on motors built after 4/99. Changed oil and filter twice to eliminate the possibility of faulty anti-drainback valve in the motorcraft filter. Tick tick... tick! Went to dealer last week for front spring squeek TSB and the "Tick". Dealer says, "we removed your serpentine belt and tick stopped, but we're not sure if it's the belt,alterator or something else. We'll fix it when you come back to have the new spring isolators installed." So I drive home only to find that when they removed and replaced the belt, they made the "tick" 10 times worse!(I guess that's good news cause now I'm convinced it really isn't the motor) For the next three days it was so noisy it would wake up the neighbors when I leave for work! Today it has quieted back down to the intermitent "tick" I had before the shop visit. Shouldn't it have been easier for them to diagnose, and why would they wait until next visit before taking action? Anybody else run into anything similar? How's that for the first post on a new board?
  • gcorey1gcorey1 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 00 SD 5.4 - 4.10ls cc with 16k, what I notice when I start up and drive and it's below 30 degs. the trans. won't shift into overdrive when you are going 45+ mph until the engine totaly warms up. Also when this happens, you can hear a whine in the tranny, this goes away when it gets into overdrive. Is this normal or what?
  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    Copy/pasted for mikejames:

    #4 of 4: (mikestjames) Thu 14 Dec '00 (04:46 PM)

    1999 F250 SD 4x4 Powerstroke with ZF 6-speed
    manual transmission. At 51,000 miles, experienced
    difficulty getting into 1st from a stop. Dealer
    replaced 1st/5th synchro and installed new shift
    template. Now (6 months later) bigger problems with
    the 6-speed: Came on VERY suddenly, working great
    one minute, the next, locked in gear, then can't
    get into ANY gear, then can't keep it in 5th (slips
    out constatly). Constant grinding between gears
    when you CAN shift at all. It's in the shop right
    now. No news yet. Anyone having similar
    difficulties with the 6-speed ZF? This truck has
    ALL highway miles, and has never towed.
  • runflatrunflat Member Posts: 3
    Rob Lee and his family purchased a 2000 F-350 truck from Bo Beuckman Ford in Ellisville Mo. in March of 00. At 160 miles Mr. Lee started noticing problems with the truck. 4 of the 6 tires were worn on the outer edges like the alignment was off. He called Bo Beuckman Ford to set up an appointment and explained the problem to the service writer who said " Don't bring it here, we don't want to see it, take it to a tire store". Furious, Lee called back and talked to someone named Randy who reluctantly scheduled an appt. An alignment check was done, then he is again told it's a tire problem. Take it to a tire store where the 6 tires are replaced at 900 miles. Shortly after this, at 1360 miles, Lee noticed it bellowing smoke on cold start up, a grinding-rumbling sound in the drive train, the steering pulled left, and a rattle in the right rear door. Another appt. was made for 4-6-00. After 22 days, he is called and told "Your truck is ready for pickup". When asked if everything went ok, they said, "We put a clutch in it and that didn't correct the grinding sound. Now that sound is normal and there is nothing else we can do about it. We couldn't duplicate the smoke problem. The rattle was a loose cab mount and we rotated the tires and now the steering pulls to the right. Lee said his truck still pulls, smokes, and has a grinding rumbling sound, also nothing was done to correct the tire wear. You say the truck is ready for pick-up? At this time the General Manager of Bo Beuckman, Larry Perez said "This has too many problems for a new unit. I'll have Tom Hoff (Truck Mgr.) look in the pool of vehicles we have to pull from and locate you a new truck and get back with you". Then Lee's told there are no other vehicles comparable to yours. Several days later, Larry Perez calls Lee and said "There is nothing wrong with your truck. Come and get it off my lot!" Lee was dumbfounded by this sudden drastic change in Perez's perception of the truck. He called Jim Helms (Service Mgr.) and is told the truck has unresolved concerns and is given an application for the Dispute Resolution Board. At this time, he refused possession of the truck until all problems were resolved. Lee requested a hearing in May 2000. Then 8-18-00 he received the DSB ruling " The Board has decided to have Ford Motor Company replace your truck. The alignment/ tire pull, drive train noise, exhaust smoke concerns you report remain unresolved. Ford will provide you at no charge, any non transferable manufactured installed options". Lee accepts the offer. Tom Hoff and Lee order a 2001 truck. Lee adds several options that he expects to pay for. Next he is told by Ford that he must pay an additional $920 to get an identical truck. This means Lee will be charged twice for some items and pay for items already on the 00 truck. This also allows nothing for the 9 months of interest and insurance payments Mr. Lee made or property tax due 1-1-01. The new 2001 truck came in 11- 22-00. Tom Hoff tells Lee he must pay approx. $1500 instead of $920.and there is nothing anyone can do about the other losses. He also verified this with Larry Perez and is told, "No, there's nothing I can do for you! ". Tue.11-28-00, KMOV-TV decides to run a story about the truck. Perez calls Lee and offers to pay all losses and wave the $1500 if KMOV-TV will kill the story. The story airs at 10

    PM Tuesday. Replaying video of the truck bellowing smoke 5 times. Wednesday, Lee calls Perez to reconcile this problem and is told "I'm not doing anything for you since the story aired". Thursday, Lee got a threat on his answering machine from Ford Motor Co. "I'll just have Tom Hoff sell your new truck to someone else if you don't accept our offer". Larry Perez continues to side step this problem blaming Lee and making excuses saying ,"Lee refuses to pay up grade charges" " there is nothing wrong with the truck" " all diesels smoke" Lee said "I paid Bo Beuckman Ford $30,000 and they and Ford M
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    The previous post appeard to be truncated.. oh well.. What did we learn?

    Rob Lee bought a truck. It had problems..
    Bo Beuckman Ford dealership is terrible with customer service.. (everyone knows you get 1 free alignment in the first 12k miles)
    FoMoCo via arbitration agreement gives him another truck with a charge $1500 additional.. (On top of the extra he is paying for additional options on the new truck). My note: Remember, this is an arbitration agreement, and not a Lemon law case at this time. Rob could have easily declined the arbitration agreement to pursue Lemon law.. It's not stated what the details are which were agreed to in the arbitration agreement, such as depreciation and mileage charges etc..
    Rob Lee threatens to go to the press with the story..
    FoMoCo folds, and will waive the $1500 if he doesn't go to the press..
    Rob Lee runs the story anyway.. Then calls his dealer to see if the dealership will waive the $1500.. (duh)
    Dealership says, FU, you aired the story..
    FoMoCo says that if Rob doesn't want to pay $1500 thats fine, they can find other buyers for the truck..
    Rob goes on to say something else that we can't see, oh well..

    So, who is the bad guy here?? Yep, the dealership could have handled themselves better, but it also seems like Rob Lee could have handled the situation better as well..

    So, let us know, how does the story end?
  • runflatrunflat Member Posts: 3
    Lee said "I paid Bo Beuckman Ford $30,000 and they and Ford Motor Company act like they don't care if I have a truck or not". "I have repeatedly been on hold as long as 45 minutes waiting for Larry or Tom to come to the phone". Lee waited days and not had phone calls returned, " Bo Beuckman won't stand behind the product they sold me".
    This truck has been at Bo Beuckman since April 6, 00 waiting for repair or replacement.
    In spite of freezing temperatures Lee hads been out front of Bo Beuckman Ford with an informational picket and says, " If I can keep just one person from the many months of agony and misery Bo Beuckman Ford has caused us, standing in the cold will be worth it"


    Please call Larry Perez 636-227-5700 to show support or TV CH 4 newsroom 314-444-6333 to report a similar problem. Rob Lee 314-412-7016 L.M.

    Standing Outside By Rob Lee

    Larry P.
    Why did you Mess With Me

    I came to your store for a truck
    Instead got stuck in all of your muck
    Must have been some really bad luck

    You said get that truck off of my lot, I'm not responsible
    I said I don't see how that is possible

    To settle this without a fit
    I would of put in quite a bit

    The press didn't give you time to buy em
    Instead you got stymied by them

    I guess you took it all pretty hard
    I didn't even get a Christmas card

    That's were we are today
    Maybe this will be over by May
    I hope it all comes out of your pay

    I really hoped you would handle this with pride
    But instead you left us standing outside
  • schafferjschafferj Member Posts: 4
    Holly S***!

    If there's one thing I've learned about situations that start to go bad... start taking lots of notes because you can at least have some satisfaction when writing to the BBB, TV stations, who ever! Those Bast***s like Bo Beuckman shouldn't be in business, but, sadly, there seem to be a lot who are.

    I've been in the pains you are going through right now Rob, and can only wish you the best of luck!

    Problem is, most people who havn't been through it don't understand the true pains you are going through and look at the situation and think "that's not possible!" But it is! And all too often!

    No call backs... "There is nothing wrong with your truck. Come and get it off my lot!"... Trying to buy you out from airing the ad. YOU GO Rob! I'd have aired it too (not that you or I could have stopped it from running :-)". I sure hope it impacts his business, runs often, and eventually forces him into bankruptcy!

    Well, enough of my sympathies, don't worry, I'll call Mr. BB and tell him what a wonderful dealership he's runnin'. Don't think he'll listen for too long though. :-)
  • heyvernheyvern Member Posts: 2
    I am surprised at the apparent ignorance of some of these people complaining about their brakes. One person talks about how the general problem with brakes pulsating is wharped drums. NOT SO. Generally its the front. Another talks about the F250 being 1000 lbs heavier than the F150. Actually its about 2000 lbs more, but the brakes on the F250's are more than twice as capable of stopping that difference. Another talks about replacing the brakes 3 times on service vehicles. He goes on to say you need to watch the rubber plug in the drums. He must be working on a '98 or older F250, cause the SD's do not have rear drums. These people should get an idea of what they have and what it does before they let their mouths overload their brains. By the way, I had the rotors turned at 1000 miles on my '99 F250. It was delivered 6-4-98. Has 47,000 miles on it now, and works great. 40% of my driving is either pulling or hauling. GET A GRIP, PEOPLE. Chances are, the way you drive is the problem.
  • 1986f2501986f250 Member Posts: 1
    Contact Edmunds.com

    Firewall/clutch problems on 86 F-250 by 1986f250 Jan 15, 2001 (08:42 am)
    I recently bought an 86 F-250 and developed problems with the clutch. I have been told this model has a single layer of sheet metal in the firewall. When the clutch is pushed in, the firewall flexes and doesn't disengage the clutch. Is there an after-market fix for this problem or does anyone know of other solutions?

  • bpetbpet Member Posts: 16
    I haven't read the board in some months now and I need some help. I have a 2000 F-250 SD 4x4 SC Auto super cab. I've had this truck almost a year now and I still can't seem to make it go straight down the road. It has been to the dealer a few times, has been aligned, and they say there is nothing that they can find wrong with it. Has anyone else had any steering problems? I really don't think it is just my imagination, because when I drive my other cars and trucks I do not seem to have any problems steering straight down the road. Can anyone help please?
  • briarbuckbriarbuck Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 and I love it. So far I've had no vibration trouble's, but my transmission failed completely with only 27,000 miles. Has any one else had this problem? To make matters worst I was stranded in Brook haven Mississippi and the dealership would not put me into a car until they fixed my truck. I had to get back home to Louisiana and see my dealer to get something to drive.
  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    Can you be a little more specific about your problem?

    If it is pulling to one side, first cross the front tires to see if the pull reverses. If so you have a problem with defective tires. See a tire dealer.

    If it still pulls the same way, caster and camber can be corrected with an offset bushing on the upper ball joint. Ask your dealer for a printout when they check the alignment. If there are more than very small (less than 1/2 degree) differences between readings from the right and left, a vehicle usually leads toward the side with low caster or high camber.

    If your problem is not pulling to one side, but a tendencey to oversteer and weave at high speed, it is most likely the proper proceedure was not followed when installing the alignment bushings, and there is a "bind" in the ball joints. The power steering has to built up more than normal pressure to move the wheels, then moves them too far. Have the dealer check the service manual. A lot of mechanics are not aware of this proceedure or the reason for it.

  • bpetbpet Member Posts: 16
    the main problem is I have to work at it to make this truck go straight. High or low speed does not seem to matter too much. It seems to not want to return to center when you make a steering correction, or sometimes it seems to over correct and sometimes it seems to over correct when you give it steering input.

    I'll follow your suggestions so far, please if you have any more ideas let me know. Thanks
  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    a vehicle with excess resistance some where in the steering system. The most likely place is ball joint bind from improper alignment bushing installation. If you go to the effort of putting the front axel on stands, removing the front tires and disconnecting the tie rods, the ball joints should move easily. If there is no bind there, the problem my be a steering gear with the sector preload set too tight.

    You might want to try this first, as it is a lot easier than what I described above.

    With the steering centered in the straight ahead position, loosen the lock nut on the sector adjustment ( the threaded stud with a socket for an allen wrench or slot for a screw driver on top the steering gear) . Draw a mark on the box with a marker for the direction of the screw slot, or allen wrench inserted in the adjuster so that you can return to the original adjustment if needed.
    Try to loosen the adjustment one flat referencing the lock nut (1/6 turn.) If it turns easily tighten the lock nut and test drive the truck.

    If it is veryhard to turn, turn the steering wheel to the right or left at least a half turn and try again. If it moves easily now, back it off one full turn and recenter the steering wheel. Tighten the adjuster slowly until you just feel resistance, hold it there and tighten the lock nut. If it is still tight "on center" after loosening one turn, try a second turn, center the wheel and slowly tighten.

    Test drive again.

    In the early nineties, I saw several GM S-10 trucks that the steering gears were adjusted about two flats (1/3 turn) too tight. Loosening that adjustment helped a lot. Ford had some 3/4 ton's with king pins in 84 to 86 that could not be loosened enough to stop binding. They claimed nothing was wrong, but a rebuilt gear fixed them. The way they drove, some guys around here called them "Four drink Fords" because stone cold sober you drove them as you would after four drinks.

    If two turns do not releave the bind, return to the original adjustment and argue for a new gear box.

  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    Don't try any of this with the engine running.

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Ford came out with a Technical Service Bulletin to address the problems with Super Duties that wander, and have tight steering:

    Here's the text of TB 01-03-02, hope it helps.
    Article No.

    Publication Date: FEBRUARY 6, 2001
    2000-2001 EXCURSION

    Some vehicles may exhibit stiff steering, wandering, or poor return ability after turns. This may be caused by alignment, steering gear mesh load, or a lower knuckle ball joint that becomes sticky and degrades steering return ability.

    Check alignment and check steering gear mesh load or install grease able ball joint and lube every 8000 kilometers (5000 miles) or at every oil change (whichever comes first). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    Verify stiff steering, wandering, or poor return ability after turns. Proceed as follows:
    Check alignment and correct if not to specification.


    If alignment corrects the condition, return vehicle to customer.

    If alignment does not resolve condition, continue to Step 2 (steering knuckle torque to turn test).
    Perform the following steering knuckle torque to turn test:
    Place vehicle on alignment rack with front wheels on low friction plates. Wheels must be pointing straight forward. Remove tie rod from steering knuckle. Install a nut and bolt into the steering arm hole and tighten.


    Use a click-style torque wrench and position it on the bolt head so that the handle is pointing toward the front of the vehicle. Set the wrench at 135 N-m (100 lb-ft).
    Pull on the torque wrench so that you are turning the front wheel outboard.
    If the knuckles turn without the wrench clicking, then ball joint turning torque is acceptable. Return vehicle to customer.

    If the wrench clicks before the wheel breaks free and begins to turn, then the torque to turn the knuckle is too high. Continue by replacing ball joints (Step 3).

    Perform this procedure on both front wheels.
    If the torque wrench clicks before the wheel breaks free and begins to turn, then replace the lower ball joint with the greaseable Lower Ball Joint (1C3Z-3050-AB) and replace the upper with the current replacement part (F6TZ-3049-AA). Refer to the appropriate model/year Workshop Manual for removal and installation procedures.

    Follow this procedure to torque the ball joints after knuckle installation.

    Torque lower ball socket nut to 47 N-m (35 lb-ft). Torque upper ball socket nut to 95 N-m (70 lb-ft), then advance nut to the next slot to line up with hole and install
    cotter pin. Retorque lower ball socket nut to 190/217 N-m (140/160 lb-ft).


    If a greaseable lower ball joint is installed, it must be serviced per the below schedule:

    At every oil change or at 8000 kilometer (5000 mile) intervals (whichever comes first)
    The recommended lubricants are:

    Premium Long Life Grease (XG-1-C, or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C75-B)
    Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease (E8TZ-19590-A, or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C198-A)

    Measure steering gear meshload. Reference the appropriate Workshop Manual for the procedure for measuring meshload. If it is less than 0.45 N-m (4 lb-in), reset to 0.56-0.68 N-m (5-6 lb-in).


    Once meshload is OK, procedure is complete. Return vehicle to customer.

    1C3Z-3050-AB Ball Joint - Lower (Greaseable Type)
    F6TZ-3049-AA Ball Joint - Upper
    XG-1-C Premium Long Life Grease
    E8TZ-19590-A Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease
  • smccarthysmccarthy Member Posts: 31
    The TSB info on the steering problem was great. Can you point me (us) to where you got that information? Thanks for your help.
  • dvosedvose Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 quad cab, just bought 2 weeks ago with 14K I have noticed a problem with keeping the truck in a strait line on the highway, I drive 400 miles a week, thought it was me at first, but I don't think so, going in for service on 3/21/01.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Try the following the link below to the National Highway Traffic Safety Association.


    Use the search on the left hand side that walks you through year, make, model of vehicle.

     Use 2000, Fordtruck, f350 Superduty. Look under choice of front suspension.

  • bpetbpet Member Posts: 16
    I have 2000 F-250 4X4 Auto With Electric Shift on The Fly option. With that option you get a different type of lockout than most of us are used to. The "lockouts" do not actually lockout, but allow you to select from Auto or Lock positions. My problem is that for the second time since I've owned my truck the lockouts have frozen up (not from the temp. outside either). My dealer repaired them once, about 4 months ago. I 'm not sure if they were actually replaced or not, but they are frozen up again. The truck goes in on Thursday for the repair. I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem, and if so, what was the cure. One of the mechanics had told me he thought there were updated versions of those hubs out, and I would like to know if this true. If there is a newer version out that corrects the problem I need to know it so that I can ask for them. Thanks .
  • bpetbpet Member Posts: 16
    Thanks a lot for the additional info on the steering problems. I'm still working on that matter. If I ever get it resolved I will post the results here.
  • jim433jim433 Member Posts: 1
    I`m an owner of a 2001 f-250 super duty crew cab with the power stroke and 4x4.The problem is,when the truck is stopped with brake applied the steering wheel looses power after a half a turn in either direction. When brake pedal is released the power returns to steering wheels entire range of movement. I returned the truck to the dealer and was provided with the following:


    This engineering design lacks "quality is job one" in my opinion. I would be interested in knowing if similar owners are experiencing the same problem.

    Thank you for your time and attention,
    [email protected]
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    From what I've read on other boards this is a common problem. It has something to do with the steering geometry.
  • dieselguydieselguy Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my 2000 F250 4X4, CC, 7.3LPS. Have had the vehicle in the shop twice to have the front rotors turned in the first 12 months/26,000 miles. Dealer says that they can find no mechanical issue (sticking calipers, master cylinder, etc.) and that the problem must be that I am hauling/pulling heavy loads or I am driving with my foot on the brake pedal. I do not haul anything and do not tow anything. I certainly do not drive with both feet. Has anyone had any experience with this problem or have a suggestion for a remedy?

    Even though the truck is still in the Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty Period, Ford has stated that they will do no further warranty repairs. Obviously, this is still up for debate. I suggested that the rotors should be replaced, but that fell on deaf ears.

    Look forward to any help you might offer.

  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    Normal shop practice, from wht I've read , is that they turn the rotors one time only and the second time should be a replacement. I would insist on replacement if you have any further problems.
  • rriorrio Member Posts: 2
    I own a Ford F-250 4X4 SD with a V 10. When I got it new, I was getting about 10.7 mpg. After the first oil change, mpg dropped to about 10.0 gradually, by the second oil change I was down to 9.7. After a round trip from Michigan to South Texas in December, I am down to about 9.3 or 9.2 mpg.

    With the exception of the trips north in Michigan in the summer and the Texas trip in December,I use the truck to go to and from work on a daily basis; about 12 miles per day at average city driving and speeds of 25 to 35. In the vacation trips I load a truck camper and tow a 22' boat, about 8,000 lbs.

    I have 10,500 miles on the vehicle, and while I am not really concerned about the cost of gas, I am not sure if I should be getting better mileage. Is this mpg OK, or what kind of mileage should I be getting given the way I am driving? Can I do anything to improve it?

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    F-350, V10, 4x4, CC,LWB, with 3.73 LS, 5spd -- unloaded around town11 mpg. Highway ~13-14 mpg. Best was around 15 - flat highway, cruise on at 60 mph, for 250 miles, with a tail wind. Towing 7000 lbs 8 mpg no matter what.

    My mileage is usually worse in winter because of winter blend gasoline.
    Which rear end do you have? The 4.30 probably does a little worse than my 3.73.
  • paul04paul04 Member Posts: 2
    Howdy, im a rancher and a student here in tx, and i am considering a F-250 4x2 V10, or should i have a 5.4L instead, i haul and pull about 2 tons a week, but i am mostly concerned about the mpg, and i don't prefer the diesel, what opinions do ya'll have and what's an average mpg for a V10, cause i wouldn't mind having a V10 at all, thanks
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    The 5.4L should pull 4k without much problem..
    I have
    00' F250 xlt SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS rear.
    Averaging 15.5 mpgs in mixed city/highway driving.

    The V10 is slightly worse (only by 1 or 2 mpgs) when empty..

    When towing 4k, I bet the V10 would get about the same mpgs as the 5.4L, maybe even better at times.
  • rriorrio Member Posts: 2
    I have 3.73 rear axle, and I do live in the winter parts where we have the blended gas, as well as the fact that I usually aoto start 5 to 10 minutes at 6AM when the weather is cold, < 30. We've had a cold one this winter!!!

    It may be that it's OK at 9.2 mpg! Other than this, I and my family enjoy the truck very much.

    On another matter, is synthetic oil of MUCH value in this type of a power plant?
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    If you change your oil ever 3k miles, either is just fine, offering similar protection.
    There are some dino oils that are actually better than some synthetics..

    I'm currently using Amsoil's full synthetic 5w-30, changing the oil every 15k and the filter every 3k. This oil is rated for 25k miles or 1 year. I'm getting ready to do an oil analysis at 8k to make sure Amsoil's really working as well as it claims.
  • newf250newf250 Member Posts: 4
    I have a F250 psd 4x4, 158"wb. I experience a bas rear axle/prive shaft vibration between 5 mph and 13 mph. Has anyone experienced this? I have head of similar problems in excursions...Any suggestions?
  • bemisbemis Member Posts: 5
    Watch the metal cover that forms the top of the cupholder/ash tray in 2000 F250 (and others, I presume). This piece sits just forward of the cupholder when the unit is open and slides in with the cupholder when you push it home, presumably to keep hot ashes from the ash-tray from burning up the instrument panel. The front edge of that piece of metal is sharp and will cut your finger.
  • lilelmolilelmo Member Posts: 144
    I have a 2000 250 Super Duty 4X4 with V10 and auto. The truck has 28,000 miles and the springs started making noises about four months ago. The dealer replaced (they said) the spring tip isolators in the front and that stopped it for a while. They replaced the complete spring assemblies in the rear and that stopped that, pretty much, but it still squeaks some. Anybody got any ideas on what causes this annoying problem and what might fix it? Thanks for any help.
  • rsabakarsabaka Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 F250, 4x4,SC, Diesel w/6 spd manual transmission. I just took it in for my first oil change (4950) and I'm currently getting 20 mpg. Needless to say, I'm definitely pleased. Anyone else getting this kind of MPG?
  • rsabakarsabaka Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone had this problem...I have an F250 SD,4X4,SC. I went to pick up a load of grain and when the kid jumped from the loading dock to the tailgate, a good portion of the tailgate dented in. When I spoke with the body shop guy at Ford and asked what the tailgates were reinforced with, he said "nothing". My '78 F150 has never done this and it's been through a whole lot more than this. Looking at the '78 from the side, the tailgate is about 1/2 as wide as the '01. When I sent an email to Ford's customer service and suggested they reinforce it with the same white, dense, styrofoam looking stuff that's behind their car bumpers, they merely answered that my problem was not a manufacturer defect, and to contact my insurance company. I feel it's a design problem because the void between the layers needs some kind of support. It's almost twice as deep as my '78. Anyone else have any problems?
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    I've actually had good luck with my superduty tailgate.
    I (with a friends help) accidently dropped a 300lb+ log on the the center of the tailgate.. Granted we didn't drop it far but the whole weight of the log was on the tailgate..
    I thought for sure we would have bent it, but its as straight as new.
    Needless to say, when I unloaded, I took the tailgate off..

    I do have a tailgate protector, like black corregated plastic, on the tailgate to keep it from getting scratched all to crap when sliding stuff in and out.. Maybe this provided a little extra cushion.
  • powerstroker2powerstroker2 Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone hats up? I"be got a 2001 F-250 CC diesel with auto tranny.My truck is in the shop for the 2nd time for the same problem,which is the transmission. The first time they told me it was a bad solenoid and the fluid was dirty. As I pull up to a light or stop sign the motor stalls and they tell me the transmission is not downshifting to low gear but staying in a higher gear thus stalling the motor. It"I like letting the clutch out in 3rd or 4th gear from a stop. Anybody else having this problems? I"be only got 1300 miles on this rig and I"I very fustrated. Why pay 1095 extra for a lousy tranny. Where"s the alliyson tranny when you need it?
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    Had the same exact problem on a corsica I owned. The solenoid went out and it wouln't downshift after coming to a stop. Very frustrating for such a little part to cause so much grief.
  • rlloyd2rlloyd2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 super duty ford f350 My truck makes
    the same creaks noise I. had it in 4 times at ford
    and it is not gone a way at all. and it is going
    back to ford to get it fix
  • rlloyd2rlloyd2 Member Posts: 4
    1999 ford F350 super duty 4X4 v10 .My truck makes
    the same noise .Had it in the shop 4 times at ford and is not fix it is going back to ford to be fix thay can not find out what the noise is
    I love the truck but not the noise
  • djpstmandjpstman Member Posts: 39
    I have a 2000 F350 CC LWB V10 and feel it idles too high when stopping. When I take my foot off the brake it moves without me accelerating. Is this normal or is there an adjustment to fix this?

    Haven't had the squeak problem yet. Only a coolant leak.
  • dlmayersondlmayerson Member Posts: 1
    This is a heads-up/request for additional information. I bought a used 1996 F250 powerstroke with auto transmission with about 70000 miles. The transmission failed within 5000 miles. Examination indicated that at least the torque converter had already been replaced before that time. After another 30000 miles, the transmission failed again. I have been hauling a 26'/8000# 5th wheel very very carefully for those 35000 miles that I have owned it, and have maintained the vehicle according to recommendations. Anyone have similar experience?
  • lilelmolilelmo Member Posts: 144
    Had the springs "fixed" for the third time and now the squeak is back. A friend who owns a 350 SD said he heard some aftermarket company was making a spring tip isolator with grease fittings, but didn't know who it was.Any idea out there as to who it might be? Thanks.
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    Does it tow the fifth wheel with ease or can you feel it back there? The reason I ask is that its possible that the weight is in spec but trailer brake malfunction could be causing additional load.
  • adam36adam36 Member Posts: 1
    Hi my name is dam and I live in the northwest and have become very interested in a 96 or 97 crew cab diesel with an automatic cranny. I have heard rumors about the trannys having problems and sometimes the motor,so if anyone knows anything bad or good about them please help me so I don't make a 25,000 dollar mistake.
  • beolsonbeolson Member Posts: 8
    I have a 99 cc 250, v10 with manual transmission and 3.73 reared. It has 18k with no off road use. Its principle use has been to tow a horse trailer (less than 4,500 pounds loaded) or a boat and trailer (less than 3,000 pounds), the latter often with a light (1,200 pound) popup camper in the bed. Overall, relatively light use for the truck. Excellent truck.

    Last weekend drove 200 miles to a lake with the boat/camper combination. The trip home was hot, in the 90s. Kept the speed at a comfortable 65 mph, 2100 RPM. Soon after arriving home I noticed oil spots on the boat. My first thought was that the engine was blowing oil. Looked underneath the truck, and saw that transmission fluid (red) was dripping from the case. Before I take it to the dealer, has anyone had this experience?

    By the way, the three year warranty was up 3 days ago. Lucky me.
  • devilinblackdevilinblack Member Posts: 1
    i have a automatic 2wd f150 w/ about 25,000 miles + or - a few. about 1 1/2 or 2 weeks ago i was driving around a curve when the truck died and steering wheel locked. fortunately i had enough air in brakes to hit them before landing in someones front yard. this truck is only driven by me and my mother, which isnt much. the ford dealership just found out that the tranny prob was due to the idle being stuck- might just have it checked out. the truck also had probs w/ a HUGE miss in the gear shift, and there wasnt an exect code for either, and they didnt catch it until the truck ran really crappy and died a few times on them. tell them- maybe thats your prob
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    When you looked at the transmission and found the leak did you get under your truck or just look under it from the side of your truck?

    I had an old 71 F-250 that I kept losing transmission fluid from and thought I had a bad seal. I got under it, and sure enough, there was transmission fluid on the transmission itself. Then I noticed there was also some further toward the front of the truck under the engine. I found that one of the transmission cooler lines that went to the radiator from the transmission was lying up against the engine oil pan, and, apparently, over a period of time the vibration of driving it had rubbed a small hole in it. It only leaked when it was being driven, and since the hole was against the oil pan it didn't leak much, but would leak down over a period of time. Check where the oil stains start to be sure it isn't one of your coolant lines rather than the transmission.
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