Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • I have a 93 F-150 P/U 4.9L 2WD Straight 6 - E4OD
    I was wondering what does your truck experience when the Torque Converter needs replacing?

    Can someone tell me the signs and symptoms??
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Anybody have this problem? '01 F350. I'm the only one who has the keys to my truck and I don't lock my tailgate. Yet almost every time in the last couple weeks or so when I go to open it, the \*&$!@# tailgate is LOCKED!!! I practically ripped my finger nails off this morning at the lumber yard. (My wife has been known to play practical jokes on me; she messes with my mind, but she's too smart to mess with my truck!)
    Don't see anything obviously wrong with the latches, etc. But I'm starting to notice a correlation between bad roads/speed bumps and the tailgate. Feel kinda silly going back to dealer with this one ...."yeah sure buddy, your tailgate locks by itself"
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    I've also experienced this, and on the site, several other folks have experienced that as well. One time while opening the tailgate, the latch felt more stiff than normal, I then closed the tailgate, and immediately went to reopen it and it was locked..
    The stiffness I think was the locking mechanism being driven by the handle opening.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    The new Ford Truck Owners club is now available on Owners Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.

    I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Pickups.

    Looking forward to meeting everyone!

    Owners Clubs

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • jps6jps6 Posts: 6
    I'm buying an older {1993} F 150 supercab XLT LB 4X4 in 2 weeks. I love this truck, but in checking out several fords of the exact year and model, I've discovered some have a tailgate with the aluminum treatment and the smaller ford logo, while the one I'm buying has the traditional F O R D in big letters across the back of the tailgate.It sure looks like the original tailgate of the same year. Can someone help me out with this non-life threatening yet puzzling dilemma? THANKS!
  • hutch7hutch7 Posts: 88
    If you are thinking of buying a 4.2L Ford V6..RUN, Run far and fast...unless of course you enjoy replacing engines every 35K or so! Just my experience anyway...
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    XLT's should have the aluminum trim strip. Lesser models have the basic tailgate (at least, in '93).
  • fordtuffordtuf Posts: 101
    When I had my old truck in 92, XLT and Lariat had aluminum and XL's had the big letters.
  • jps6jps6 Posts: 6
    My '93 has all the goodies like power windows, door locks, cruise, tilt wheel ,am-fm cassette etc. It does not have buckets. The logo on the front fenders says F-150 XLT. Did the XL's come with power windows etc.for '93? Also it's a 5.0 liter 4X4 with two gas tanks,{wow, got those just in time with gas prices going up huh?!!}
    Why don't I have brushed aluminum like normal fords?
  • fordtuffordtuf Posts: 101
    As far as I know Xl's did not come with all the stuff you mentioned, XLT's do. On my 92 XLT, just above the glovebox there was a metal looking strip. Embossed in that strip were the letters XLT, they could be easily overlooked if you didn't know they were there.

    What kind of florring do you have? XLT is carpet, XL is rubber/plastic. I don't think you could option carpet in an XL.

    My guess is that someone trashed the tailgate and got the first one they could that matched the truck color.
  • jps6jps6 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info fordtuf..I guess it's possible that it might have a different tailgate, but wow the color is EXACT. I looked at two f-150's, identical year, both 5.0 liter and XLT. The only difference inside were that one had the buckets with lumbar switch and the center console (and it was bright red). The ford I'm buying is the same truck except a bench seat. Both trucks carry the XLT logo outside and on the right side dash as you mentioned.( the one I'm buying is cranberry and silver) I took great pictures of both trucks inside and out. How do I post them so you can see for yourself?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Took F-350 in to dealer for self locking tailgate. They didn't seem very suprised when I told them about it. But, at first they couldn't get it to lock by itself, so they just lubed it and were gonna give it back to me.
    However, Mechanic decided on one last test and drove over to rutted gravel parking lot. It locked on him every time he hit a certain pot hole. They ended up replacing the handle mechanism, both latches, and one of the "rods" in gate. They think possibly I had something get caught in latch when closing gate which may have deformed the rod allowing things to lock up easier.
    Of course they were lazy: called me at noon to say they were done, but I needed to use a different key for the gate. Told them it was Unacceptable! So an hour job took them all day, till they were able to get someone to recore the replacement lock cylinder for my current key. Don't think they'll break even on that warranty repair from Ford.
    Bounced the heck outta the truck on the way home and gate didn't lock by itself.
  • jkiltonjkilton Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 F150 XLT extended cab 4x4 with a 5.4l engine. At about 30K miles I had it in the shop for a burnt oil smell. Now 3 head replacements later and oil leaking on my driveway and 3 weeks in the dealership service bay. I am informed by my dealer they want to replace the engine with a remanufacture engine. This problem is not resolved yet. I do not want a refurbished engine on a new truck.
    I have read other message boards by Ford owners with the same problem. I have not seen any posting yet on this board. Anyothers have similar experiences. I would like to know the outcome and if anyone has covered this under any lemon laws.

    Thank you
  • jonnysignjonnysign Posts: 1
    Has Ford figured out what the cause of the thump that occurs sometimes when you start the truck? It happens only occasionally, sometimes it's light, other times you swear you ran into something. Does anyone else have this in their trucks. I've owned a 99 V8 & a 2000 7.4 and have had it in both.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Others have suggested it is the A/C compressor coming to life after the engine cranks, that sudden "jerk" on the belt when the clutch engages. I have it on mine, but only when the compressor is on, just like what others have noticed. If you make sure the controls are in the vent, floor or off position, you should not have the thump.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I agree with Mullins. Mine does it on occaission. Only after sitting overnight, nose down on my sloping driveway - one fairly loud thump and nothing else when a/c is on at startup. Ford tech said the freon in line upstream from the a/c compressor had partially liquified from cooling down overnight, causing thump when it was pumped through next day. Told me it wasn't an issue and "wouldn't hurt the a/c compressor."
    Didn't really buy into the "wouldn't hurt" line, but per his advice I've been making conscious effort for past several months to make sure I turn off climate controls before shutting down motor for the night. Since then, I've never gotten the thump when I had a/c off prior to starting in morning.

    As an aside, my wife's 2K Honda Odyssey sometime makes similar (but scarier sounding) noise if she starts with rear a/c engaged. Honda gave same explanation.
  • tc14374tc14374 Posts: 22
    Recently as in about a week ago I noticed that my 99 F-150 4X4 developed what can best be described as a "jerk" when I climb hills or grades. It only does it when I am traveling at highway speeds and when I go up a grade. The tranny doesn't shift out of overdrive and it starts a jerking or skipping action. The best way to describe it is it feels like you are literally throwing an anchor out. The auto transmission was serviced according to reccomendation at 30k miles. The dealer examined it today and said it was the torque converter. Has anyone out there experienced a similar problem and if so was it in fact the torque converter? Any info would be appreciated.
  • mesazonemesazone Posts: 51
    I was going to post the same problem, but figured out as long as I left the vent controls on something other then off when I last turned off the pickup, I would get the thump. Sometimes loud, sometimes barely audible. Sometimes within 5 seconds of starting, sometimes it took a good 60 seconds. It didn't matter if the A/C was running or not (didn't run it all winter. It is cold enough without it.) It also didn't matter what slope it was parked at or on level ground. It sounds to me like a vent closing that was left open, but I don't know. Glad to hear I'm not the only one.
  • tc14374tc14374 Posts: 22
    I checked out and discovered that this condition is quite common and is called "torque converter shutter". According to post on the website the problem can probably be corrected by flushing out the transmission fluid and replacing it, specifically with Mercron V. According to the guys there this should take care of the problem.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The service manager at my local Ford garage told me to add one bottle of the friction modifier to the tranny along with the required amount of Mercon V. I don't know why it works, I just know it does. My wife's Cougar has done the same thing through repeated flush and fills. When I put in the modifier the last time I flushed and filled, the shudder went away.
  • gthiltongthilton Posts: 30
    My 2000 250 SD CC V-10 has a buzz coming from the manifold or heat shield area at 2400 RPM. The dealer has looked at it and can't get it to go away. They say they haven't seen this problem before. Funny thing is, I drive a 2001 350 V-10 at work, and at about 4000 miles, it started the exact same problem, except at 2200 RPM. Too big a coincidence for me to believe I have an "isolated" problem. Please advise me if you know anything. Thanks
  • jcave1jcave1 Posts: 137
    If you don't get what you need here, check the
    Ford-Diesel site. It's not only about oil burning, smokey, stinky, diesels. They do have a gasser section.

    good luck

  • deraltederalte Posts: 2
    Have an1985 F250, 460 V-8, manual tranny, 89k miles. About 18 months ago replaced battery and rebuilt alternator. Regulator checked out OK. Earlier this week, noticed battery seemed low at start, once started, battery gauge showed slight discharge at any speed. Charged up battery, took vehicle to Auto Zone for test. Battery and Regulator checked out OK, Alternator provided only about 12.6 Volts, 9 Amps, which is well below specs. As in-car unit had a "lifetime" guarantee, got new alternator, installed same this morning. Also put in new Regulator, "just in case". Alas, exactly same result as before: very slow discharge on gauge. Suggestions? Did I put the appropriate Field/Armature wires back right? Is there a Fusable Link that is blown, or not working properly? How to trace this out?
  • fordtuffordtuf Posts: 101
    My new 02 V10 has the thump when I start it. I specifically know that the A/C is NEVER on when I shut the truck off. I ALWAYS put it into the vent position and flush the vents for about 15 seconds before I shut off the truck, its keeps air ducts fresher longer and also the new truck smell. Anyway it does not matter the position of the switch. What does seem to matter is if I don't drive it for a day. Driving everyday I can't remember it ever happening, leave it sit for only one day and its almost guaranteed to thump when you start it. BTW it usually thumps a little differently when I actually turn on the A/C compressor. For those of you that don't know, the A/C compressor kicks in every time you turn on anything except the vent and the floor heat only.

    Exhuast rattle...
    had it on my 99, it was the shield on the y-pipe. I had to find it for my dealer so they could fix it. They welds are very cheap and were breaking loose, they fixed it with a hose clamp. Not shown up on the new truck, but it only has 4500 miles.
  • mwautomwauto Posts: 4
    I have an 2002 F-150 Suprcrew with 7,300 miles and the transmission slips intermittently between first and second gear approximately 10 times per week. I notice it mainly in stop-n-go traffic when I do not come to a complete stop or leaving a parking lot etc. and go to accelerate. The vehicle jerks when the rear wheels finally catch and I have heard a metal scraping noise from the rear once. It has been in the shop twice so far and they have been unable to find anything. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
  • wnaplywnaply Posts: 3
    Just curious if anyone else has seen the problem I have. I have noticed after my truck sits overnight that there is a noise that sounds like the valve train tapping at startup. The noise goes away after about 15 seconds and does not re-occur during the day. I have 25k miles on the truck. I recently switched from 5W-30W dino oil to 5W-30W Mobil 1 Synthetic with Prolong additive. I did not hear the problem before the switch. I plan to go back to the dino oil in the next couple of days. Any thoughts? :)

    Oh yeah, with the synthetic and Prolong I picked up about 1.75mpg for what its worth....

    '00 SD, V10, CC, 4X4 Lariat
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    It's possible that the oil filter you used either didn't have, or had a defective anti-drainback valve. This valve built into the oil filter keeps the oil from draining out of the top end of the engine when the truck is not running.

    I've always used Motorcraft filters which have this feature..
  • wnaplywnaply Posts: 3
    Well, I changed the oil and filter and still have the annoying noise at startup. Like you Bess I always use the Motorcraft filter. I hate to go to the dealer with this one. I can picture them rubbing there chin and saying that's just normal for the V10. At least it is only first thing in the morning. Maybe it's just more noticeable to me because I have an autostart and am able to be around the front of the truck when it starts. I guess I'll start it from the inside a few times to see what it sounds like from there. Don't think it is normal though.....
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    Check the belt tension on your alternator. I had a '71 F-250 with gauges. It would start fine when the battery was charged, but after driving a while and turning the engine off the battery would be down enough it wouldn't start it. After scratching my head over the problem a while I noticed the needle on the ammeter was running just a little toward the discharge side, and I do mean just a little. Not enough to be really noticeable until I started looking for problems. I tightened the belt, charged the battery, the ammeter ran centered, and the problem went away.
    Apparently the old belt had stretched too much to allow me to tighten it properly and the alternator wasn't turning enough to recharge it.
  • berry113berry113 Posts: 13
    We posted back in November regarding the rust on our 1997 F-150. Latest update is the Ford Helpless line will not fix the corrosion on the doors until the rust has eaten a whole through the door. Cannot believe Ford will not cover the bodywork on this. Anyone have any similar problems?
This discussion has been closed.