I thought the same thing also except the sound doesn't change when I step on the brakes, even if I ride them to try to make it change. The truck just feels sluggish compared to other 5.4 4x4 CCs that I've test driven. Feels like I need to step on the gas pretty hard just to get moving. Do you know if the 5.4 CC long bed comes stock with the 4.10 rear end? Those are the only other trucks I've test driven and I'm wondering if that's the difference in the feel.
If my truck started exhibiting the symptoms your truck is, I would have jacked both ends of the truck off the ground and manually spun the tires to check for any rolling resistance. I really think this is your problem. Maybe your dealer will find the problem and fix it, I'm afraid they'll just drive it around the lot and say everything seems fine. The noise you mentioned MIGHT change if you heated the brakes up real good, but then again they might not. A bad bearing might make that noise you describe. There is/has been an issue with the front hubs on these trucks. Lots of them have gone bad WAAAYYYY too soon. If your dealer doesn't "find" anything, take it home and jack it up. Manually spin each tire and listen for the noise. Get under the truck and spin each drive shaft. Look for anything that doesn't appear/feel right. If anything is binding/not rotating freely, it will get very hot after a few miles. So you might go on a 10 or 15 mile trip, then get under the truck to feel for hot drivetrain components. Be careful, there are lots of very hot items under a vehicle. Post what either the dealer finds or what you find.
I don't know about the rearend ratio, but I think a truck with your configuration would have a 4.10 gear. My truck has a tag attached to the diff. cover, yours might. I do know our trucks have different rearends.
BTW: You have a very good truck. IMHO, the Ford Superduty is the best total package on the road today. Sure the gas mileage isn't great, but neither are any of the other manufacturers. Once you get this issue worked out, I really think you'll enjoy your truck for many miles to come.
The 4.10 rear end would help with some of the acceleration, and if you do alot of city driving, its possible you could even get better MPG's (as the tranny is able to hold in OD longer). Even my SD with the manual tranny and 5sp, 4.10 it's not a rocket ship. I can easily keep up and pass traffic from light to light, and on the highway. But, if someone were to race me from light to light, I'd just have to let them go. It's tough for a 5000 lbs beast to compete with vehicles that weigh a good 2k less.
If you do more highway than city driving, then the 3.73 should give you better mpg's than the 4.10.
I doubt you'd see enough (or any) of an MPG change going from a 3.73 to 4.10 to justify the $800+ to do the swap.
As someone else mentioned, I can put my SD in neutral and push it around in my level garage. If you can't check for something dragging. (maybe the parking brake?)
i have owned this truck since day one and had it properly broken in. The oil level seems to be about a quart low every oil change(3K miles)I do the changes and add six qts w/ a new filter. I can't see any leaks and I don't notice any smoke. the truck runs great and has a 5 speed. Does anyone out there have similar problems? Let me know. thanks, extland01
If you don't see a puddle , most likely there was air in the radiator after they replaced the hose. When the truck is cold , the level should be at the minimum or a little above. Add some to the reservoir when cold. to bring up to level.
I have a 4.2 V-6 with 50,000 miles. Over the past couple weeks (approx. 1500 miles of distance) the clutch engaged very early as I let the pedal out (usually only happened in the morning on the first startup of the day). As a temporary fix to the problem until I could take it in to a mechanic, I found that if I put the transmission in neutral and pumped the clutch, the "engage point" went back to normal on the pedal path of travel. If anyone could provide some insight as to the potential problem(s) you would make my day. It's just easier to deal with the mechanic if I can go and tell him what the problem probably is, OR if it's easy enough to fix I can save some money and do it myself. Thanks for any help, I appreciate it.
Has anyone ever seen anything published by ford indicating whether or not to depend on the gauge on the air filter. I had a dodge and the manual said not to visually inspect the airfilter, that the gauge should be used as a true indicator of filter performance. I have a dealer that is now blaming our engine problems on a clogged air filter, eventhough the gauge never indicated a reduction in airflow to the engine. He said that the gauge did not work, but didn't bother to replace it. Yes the engine is under warranty, but they are fishing for any reason they can to not do the warranty work. Do dealerships loose money when doing warranty work? Why do dealerships fight the warranty work so hard?
What does your Ford manual say about visual inspection?
Dealerships don't lose money on warranty work, but they do get paid less than the retail rate. They are also looked on with suspicion if they do more warranty work than Ford thinks is acceptable. I would guess that the target Ford sets is lower than the dealer would like.
I've never seen mine move beyond the first graduation, much less ever register in the red. I don't rely on it at all. I visually check my filter every other oil change.
The local Ford dealer took a look at my truck on Friday. The squeak/grinding noise that I heard when the hubs were engaged was a bad hub seal which they replaced. Seems to have taken care of the problem. As far as the mileage goes, it seems to have taken care of itself. I had to take a business trip on Wednesday/Thursday that involved a roughly 400 mile round trip crossing two mountain passes. I was in 4 wheel drive while crossing the passes. When I got to my destination, I noticed that I had only used about a 1/2 tank. I filled the tank and found that I had gotten about 15 miles a gallon. I took a different route on the way back to do a little fishing and had about the same results and that route took me on a very winding and mountainous road. The truck felt like a totally different vehicle during the trip as I had to actually brake going into corners. I figure that whatever was stuck before had broken itself loose when I was crossing the passes. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong, but I kind of figured that they wouldn't based on how the truck was performing. I've got another, longer trip this week so I see if this keeps up. Thanks for all of the advice!
Another thing to be aware of when checking mileage in the SuperDutys is that depending on the angle of the truck when your filling it up, there can be a significant difference (in MPG calculation) in how much fuel it will take before the gasoline pump shuts off.
Even a slight uphill, or downhill grade can make a difference.
I try to use the same pump at the same station when I fill up, which has a slight downhill grade.
If you keep statistics over time, the error tends correct itself.
I have a 03 Screw 5.4L with tow package and 3.55LS rear end. I've noticed what appears to be a knocking noise from my rear passenger side tire. It doesn't appear to be any vibrations or anything, but I hear this sound. I can hear it really well on the black, asphalt type surfaces. I can't hear it on concrete surfaces, but I don't know if it's the surface causing the sound or if I just can't hear it on concrete. Is this just tire or road noise? My truck only has about 2K miles on it, so maybe it's just the new General tires. I haven't been to the dealer yet because it doesn't appear to be a vibration, and I don't hear it all the time (but just because I don't hear it doesn't mean it's not there).
Maybe I'm just paranoid, it seems like I'm always looking for things wrong with my new truck instead of focusing on the great things. However, this knocking noise is very annoying. Help!!!!
Hard to say. wonder if the tire just as a flat spot or something.
Look at the tire, and make sure you didn't pick up a nail or something. I've had this happen to me where sometimes the nail would either not go all the way through, or it would seal pretty well so there wasn't any air loss, but I could hear the head of the nail hitting the asphalt (click, click), if there wasn't much other noise. Concrete is a little more rough, so with the additional road noise, or at higher speeds with the additional wind noise, you don't hear it.
Try jacking the truck up, spin the tire by hand, and listen. The tire should also be smooth in spining with no grinding etc.
Could try rotating that tire to a different position, and see if the symptom changes. If it does, then you can be more sure it's just the tire.
Most likely, if you took it to the dealership, they'd do the same types of things. I tend to do stuff like this myself because it's too much of a hassle to drop it off etc.
Took the truck to my local dealer, they said that my rear tires were slightly out of balance. They rebalanced the tires. Got the truck back, still the noise. It sounds just like a child's bike with a baseball card taped to the spokes. It's a clicking, ticking sound. I can hit a bump, and I'd doesn't get any louder so I don't think it's a frame issue. What's next? Should I have them rotate the tires and see if the sound moves to the front? Once again, my tires are American General with about 2k miles on them.
Hmm, the tire rotation is something you can try, but I'm thinking there might be one other source of the clicking/ticking thats not related to tires or frame.
Drive your truck around for a while so it is at normal operating tempature. Then park it and listen. You'll hear a bunch of clicks and ticking as the exaust system cools down. This is normal, and not indicitive of any type of problem. (My Ranger and SuperDuty both do it). I've known some folks that can hear this while the truck is moving (however I cant). Probably occurs more as the truck is warming up and cooling down.
No, it's definitely not the sound of exhaust crackle and pop. It's something that is heard while I'm driving and has to due with my speed. As I speed up, it speeds up, as I slow down it slows down. Could it be something under my truck, like the drive axle? Could it just simply be tire road noise? It really sounds like a window rattling, but I've checked my glasses. It sounds like someone is knocking on the wheel wells and/or underbody of my truck, it's a hollow knocking sound. It's really annoying.
MY 1997 F150 SUPER CAB WITH 147,000 PLUS MILES ON IT DEVELOPED A SQUEAKING IN FRONT WHENEVER THE WHEEL WAS TURNED AT REST. ONE DAY WHILE HAVING THE TRANNY OIL CHANGED I ASKED THE TECH TO CHECK IT OUT. HE TOLD ME THE TIE RODS WERE WORN AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE COST? $753.00 PLUS AN ALIGNMENT. OUCH! NOT WILLING TO PAY THAT, I WENT AND GOT A SECOND OPINION FROM A MECHANIC WHO HAD SERVICED BY TRUCK BEFORE. RESULTS? THE TIE RODS ARE FINE HE TOLD ME. THEY WERE JUST DRIED OUT AND NEEDED SOME GREASE. MORAL OF THE STORY? ALWAYS GET A SECOND OPINION! TO DATE, MY TRUCK IS SQUEAK FREE AND RUNNING GREAT.
I HAD TO REPLACE THE DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS ON MY 97 F150 AT 144,300 MILES TO CURE A WHINE COMING FROM THE REAR END. HAS ANYONE DONE THIS TO THEIR TRUCK? IS THIS NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR CONSIDERING THE MILEAGE? HOW LONG SHOULD THESE PARTS LAST BEFORE THEY SHOULD BE REPLACED? I'M ASKING BECAUSE I HAVE HAD THIS TRUCK FOR SIX YEARS NOW, LONGER THAN ANY TRUCK BEFORE IT. THE PARTS WERE CHEAP, BUT THE LABOR SET ME BACK OVER $700 BUCKS.THE TRUCK RUNS QUIET NOW, NO PROBLEMS.
First up, folks generally don't type in all capital letters. (It implies yelling).
Good advice on the 2nd opinion.. As to the rear end bearings, they normally do last longer than 140k, unless a leak developed or the axle was submerged in water (like sometimes happens on boatramps or off-roading).
How conscentious were you about changing the axle oil?
The labor seems a little high. Ten hours @ $70 an hour? Bearings are manufactured to very close tolerances and can usually be replaced without resetting the gears. Worst ways, it should only require backlash adjustment.
Always change the oil if there's any possibility of contamination.
fyi, Ford service manual indicates that the rear diff oil never needs to be changed unless there's a leak or the axle was submerged in water..
If the oil is changed from the factory to a non-syntetic oil, then it (non-synthetic diff oil) should be changed every 3k miles.
So, my question (not to steal lagonzal thread): I never go off-road or go in any conditions that would 'submerge' the axle in water. So should I be somehow 'inspecting' the oil? I do periodically check that the LSD is operating properly.
I've always believed the Ford give you the minimum service requirements to get through to the end of the warranty period without a claim, after which they couldn't care less. (Mind you, I'm a little cynical by nature.)
Anyway, I just checked the official maintenance schedule for my 1993 F150, and the rear axle fluid gets changed at 100,000 miles and the auto trans fluid and filter never gets renewed!
Both the axle and tranny have breathers, but not breathers with filters. It stands to reason that as these units 'breathe' they will draw in moisture, dust and other contaminants. Components in both units will shed substantial wear particles as they go through the initial break in period, then continue at lesser levels due to normal wear.
Personally, I would do a complete lubricant change after 3000 miles (including P/S fluid), and then at every 30,000 miles thereafter (engine oil at every 3000 miles). It's easy to do and it's very cheap insurance if nothing else.
However, I'm sure that there's someone who'll tell us that they're at 300,000 miles, and that they don't do anything except change the engine oil once a year whether it needs it or not!
THE F 150 HAS THE WORST SAFETY MARKS THEN ANY OTHER VEHICLE MADE IN THE WORLD TODAY. IF YOU CRASH I PRAY YOU WALK AWAY. IT'S A DEATH TRAP. I TEST DROVE THE TUNDRA THE OTHER DAY AND IT WAS AMAZING. BYE BYE FORD. ANYTHING MADE BY FORD IS JUNK.
If you look back to message 273 you will see all of the problems that we are having with our F450 Diesel. 2 ford dealerships said that it was abuse and they would not service it under warranty. As we prepared to sue them, we took it to a true diesel shop and within 3 hours they solved the problem. The EIC was not working right. They replaced the chip and the truck worked fine. Ford said the #4 cylinder had shown excessive wear, but they did not see anything wrong with any of the cylinders. I really wonder if Fords mechanics have any training in the electronic side of the engines, or are they still hanging on to the old diesel techs and not re training them. This has cost me 9 months of use of my truck. No we haven't heard any apologies from ford!
I believe you may have been mesmerized by Consumer Report's crusade concerning the "offset crash" results for the F150. It was rated a "poor" by the government. However, the Chevy/GMC trucks were rated only "marginal", yet CR gives them their "Recommended" seal of approval.
CR is a great source for review of TV's, toasters, washing machines and diapers. For automobiles, your best bet is to stick with more authoritative sources.
As for the Toy Truck, its OK if you want to pay several thousand dollars more for a less than full size cab, plus a bed that holds substantially less volume. You have to give them credit though, since they copied the F150 front end and dash panel as best they could. However on the new Tundra stepside, that is the ugliest looking butt I've ever seen. The current "old" F150 still kicks everybody's behind in sales, and it will be even more so when the '04 goes on sale.
Just bought a 1993 F350 7.3 liter diesel dually with 70K on it. The truck is like new...never driven in snow and is a one owner. The guy that owned it was a retired long haul driver. This 7.3 liter diesel is non-turbo. I understand 1994 was the first year of the turbo diesel. How do the two engines compare? Is the non turbo more or less reliable than the turbo version? Also, how often should I check the anti-cavitation additive in the coolant? So far I've driven it 800 miles and it runs fine, and I'm getting about 16-17 mpg on the highway empty. Is that pretty typical mpg for the non-turbo diesel? Thanks.
The mileage sounds about right, I get 17-18 empty with my '99 dually. Those engines have a very good track record, from what I've seen and been told. Yes, there is quite a difference between the naturally aspirated 7.3 and the turbo 7.3. If you really have a cream-puff of a truck, go visit the Banks website. They have all kinds of goodies for that truck, ranging anywhere from simple exhaust kits all the way up to full blown turbo kits with everything else needed to make that truck really haul. The coolant additives, IMO, should be checked every oil change. My manual says to add "FW-16" every 15k miles. I have found mine only needs replenishing about every 20k miles. But, your truck probably will be different.
I've got an '82 F350, which currently has single (albeit oversized) rear wheels. Anyone know what might be involved in converting it over to dual rear wheels? I need to sell it, but everyone that's called about it wants to know if it's a dooley or not (and when they learn it isn't, they're not interested).
I suspect that you're asking a high price and that's why people are expecting it to be a dually. However, you'd have to get the parts very cheaply to make it worthwhile on a 21 year old F350.
DUAL WHEEL ADAPTER SET Converts your single rear wheels to dual for increased payload Replacement extension bolt and valve stem extenders sold separately Improves sway control, a must for campers! Heavy-duty steel dual wheel adapters let you use your present wheel and tires together with spare tires (wheels and tires not included). Simple installation with regular lug wrench: 1. Mount first wheel, 2. Screw on extension bolts, 3. Slip on adapter, 4. Mount second wheel. Fit trucks and trailers with drop-center or standard wheels. Use only with standard width rims and tires. Not for vans with sliding side door or use with aluminum wheels, original-equipment dual wheels or Budd wheels. 2 adapters, extension bolts and instructions included. .....costs around $360
together with these:.....
REAR FIBERGLASS FENDERS Rustproof and shock resistant Perfect with dual wheel adapters No costly body work—just trim and bolt on. Ready-to-paint gelcoat finish. Installs with regular hand tools. Instructions included. Additional fender extension required depending on application. Some trimming and modification/extension of gas filler tube may be required ....... also costs about $360.
Those only put more rubber on the ground. They do nothing to increase payload or towing capacity as the rear axle, chassis, suspension, brakes and drivetrain are still subject to the original design limits.
It should, but it won't win any races. If you have 4.10's it would be easier. Looks like a 3000 Ford tractor weighs just shy of 4,000 lbs. Assuming you have a typical 16'-18' flatbed trailer weighing in around 1,000 lbs and say a 5' mower, you'll be around 5,250-5,500 lbs. I wouldn't want to tow any more than that with a 1/2 ton, even if it had a bigger motor. My concern would be the brakes and suspension. I would definitely want the trailer to have brakes on all four wheels.
I'm sure it could. How often and what terrain do you plan on towing the tractor.
If your only going to tow it once or twice a year, then you can probably get away with the F150. However, if more often than that, you'll probably want to go to an F250.
I have an 02 F250SD 4x4 V10. I will be pulling a 6500lb travel trailer with it. The 1st time I pulled with it, I noticed that it does not want to stay in overdrive at or above 65. I have the 430 gear ratio. Should I be using overdrive to pull at all? Called the dealer and they said I should not use overdrive. With this setup this truck is rated to tow 12500lbs. Seems like pulling 6500 it shouldnt be woking that hard. Any suggestions??
Comments
I don't know about the rearend ratio, but I think a truck with your configuration would have a 4.10 gear. My truck has a tag attached to the diff. cover, yours might. I do know our trucks have different rearends.
BTW: You have a very good truck. IMHO, the Ford Superduty is the best total package on the road today. Sure the gas mileage isn't great, but neither are any of the other manufacturers. Once you get this issue worked out, I really think you'll enjoy your truck for many miles to come.
Even my SD with the manual tranny and 5sp, 4.10 it's not a rocket ship. I can easily keep up and pass traffic from light to light, and on the highway. But, if someone were to race me from light to light, I'd just have to let them go. It's tough for a 5000 lbs beast to compete with vehicles that weigh a good 2k less.
If you do more highway than city driving, then the 3.73 should give you better mpg's than the 4.10.
I doubt you'd see enough (or any) of an MPG change going from a 3.73 to 4.10 to justify the $800+ to do the swap.
As someone else mentioned, I can put my SD in neutral and push it around in my level garage. If you can't check for something dragging. (maybe the parking brake?)
00 F250 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10ls
Bleeding the clutch will temporarily fix it, but the correct repair will either be a new seal kit or a replacement cylinder.
Dealerships don't lose money on warranty work, but they do get paid less than the retail rate.
They are also looked on with suspicion if they do more warranty work than Ford thinks is acceptable.
I would guess that the target Ford sets is lower than the dealer would like.
As far as the mileage goes, it seems to have taken care of itself. I had to take a business trip on Wednesday/Thursday that involved a roughly 400 mile round trip crossing two mountain passes. I was in 4 wheel drive while crossing the passes. When I got to my destination, I noticed that I had only used about a 1/2 tank. I filled the tank and found that I had gotten about 15 miles a gallon. I took a different route on the way back to do a little fishing and had about the same results and that route took me on a very winding and mountainous road. The truck felt like a totally different vehicle during the trip as I had to actually brake going into corners. I figure that whatever was stuck before had broken itself loose when I was crossing the passes. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong, but I kind of figured that they wouldn't based on how the truck was performing. I've got another, longer trip this week so I see if this keeps up. Thanks for all of the advice!
Even a slight uphill, or downhill grade can make a difference.
I try to use the same pump at the same station when I fill up, which has a slight downhill grade.
If you keep statistics over time, the error tends correct itself.
I have a 03 Screw 5.4L with tow package and 3.55LS rear end. I've noticed what appears to be a knocking noise from my rear passenger side tire. It doesn't appear to be any vibrations or anything, but I hear this sound. I can hear it really well on the black, asphalt type surfaces. I can't hear it on concrete surfaces, but I don't know if it's the surface causing the sound or if I just can't hear it on concrete. Is this just tire or road noise? My truck only has about 2K miles on it, so maybe it's just the new General tires. I haven't been to the dealer yet because it doesn't appear to be a vibration, and I don't hear it all the time (but just because I don't hear it doesn't mean it's not there).
Maybe I'm just paranoid, it seems like I'm always looking for things wrong with my new truck instead of focusing on the great things. However, this knocking noise is very annoying. Help!!!!
(then maybe tire related).
if not
does it occur when your doing tight turns, like in parking lots etc? Could be a rear body mount.
All just guesses..
Look at the tire, and make sure you didn't pick up a nail or something. I've had this happen to me where sometimes the nail would either not go all the way through, or it would seal pretty well so there wasn't any air loss, but I could hear the head of the nail hitting the asphalt (click, click), if there wasn't much other noise.
Concrete is a little more rough, so with the additional road noise, or at higher speeds with the additional wind noise, you don't hear it.
Try jacking the truck up, spin the tire by hand, and listen. The tire should also be smooth in spining with no grinding etc.
Could try rotating that tire to a different position, and see if the symptom changes. If it does, then you can be more sure it's just the tire.
Most likely, if you took it to the dealership, they'd do the same types of things. I tend to do stuff like this myself because it's too much of a hassle to drop it off etc.
Drive your truck around for a while so it is at normal operating tempature. Then park it and listen. You'll hear a bunch of clicks and ticking as the exaust system cools down. This is normal, and not indicitive of any type of problem. (My Ranger and SuperDuty both do it). I've known some folks that can hear this while the truck is moving (however I cant). Probably occurs more as the truck is warming up and cooling down.
Is it possible that this is what your hearing?
Good advice on the 2nd opinion..
As to the rear end bearings, they normally do last longer than 140k, unless a leak developed or the axle was submerged in water (like sometimes happens on boatramps or off-roading).
How conscentious were you about changing the axle oil?
The labor seems a little high. Ten hours @ $70 an hour? Bearings are manufactured to very close tolerances and can usually be replaced without resetting the gears. Worst ways, it should only require backlash adjustment.
Always change the oil if there's any possibility of contamination.
If the oil is changed from the factory to a non-syntetic oil, then it (non-synthetic diff oil) should be changed every 3k miles.
So, my question (not to steal lagonzal thread): I never go off-road or go in any conditions that would 'submerge' the axle in water. So should I be somehow 'inspecting' the oil? I do periodically check that the LSD is operating properly.
Anyway, I just checked the official maintenance schedule for my 1993 F150, and the rear axle fluid gets changed at 100,000 miles and the auto trans fluid and filter never gets renewed!
Both the axle and tranny have breathers, but not breathers with filters. It stands to reason that as these units 'breathe' they will draw in moisture, dust and other contaminants. Components in both units will shed substantial wear particles as they go through the initial break in period, then continue at lesser levels due to normal wear.
Personally, I would do a complete lubricant change after 3000 miles (including P/S fluid), and then at every 30,000 miles thereafter (engine oil at every 3000 miles). It's easy to do and it's very cheap insurance if nothing else.
However, I'm sure that there's someone who'll tell us that they're at 300,000 miles, and that they don't do anything except change the engine oil once a year whether it needs it or not!
:-)
I'm interested in your assertion that "THE F 150 HAS THE WORST SAFETY MARKS THEN ANY OTHER VEHICLE MADE IN THE WORLD TODAY".
Could you give a link to where that information might be found?
CR is a great source for review of TV's, toasters, washing machines and diapers. For automobiles, your best bet is to stick with more authoritative sources.
As for the Toy Truck, its OK if you want to pay several thousand dollars more for a less than full size cab, plus a bed that holds substantially less volume. You have to give them credit though, since they copied the F150 front end and dash panel as best they could. However on the new Tundra stepside, that is the ugliest looking butt I've ever seen. The current "old" F150 still kicks everybody's behind in sales, and it will be even more so when the '04 goes on sale.
Sounds interesting either way.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
DUAL WHEEL ADAPTER SET
Converts your single rear wheels to dual for increased payload
Replacement extension bolt and valve stem extenders sold separately
Improves sway control, a must for campers! Heavy-duty steel dual wheel adapters let you use your present wheel and tires together with spare tires (wheels and tires not included). Simple installation with regular lug wrench: 1. Mount first wheel, 2. Screw on extension bolts, 3. Slip on adapter, 4. Mount second wheel. Fit trucks and trailers with drop-center or standard wheels. Use only with standard width rims and tires. Not for vans with sliding side door or use with aluminum wheels, original-equipment dual wheels or Budd wheels. 2 adapters, extension bolts and instructions included.
.....costs around $360
together with these:.....
REAR FIBERGLASS FENDERS
Rustproof and shock resistant
Perfect with dual wheel adapters
No costly body work—just trim and bolt on. Ready-to-paint gelcoat finish. Installs with regular hand tools. Instructions included. Additional fender extension required depending on application. Some trimming and modification/extension of gas filler tube may be required
....... also costs about $360.
But I can't say that I'd do it myself.
Maybe he'd like to tell us how much he was asking for his F350, and if he's still thinking about doing the conversion?
If your only going to tow it once or twice a year, then you can probably get away with the F150. However, if more often than that, you'll probably want to go to an F250.
I guess my concern is: Shouldnt the V10 have enough power to tow 6500 lbs without hunting?