The key here is "new wires and plugs". If the wires and plugs were of the performance variety, they likely do not include the shielding to prevent rfi (radio frequency interference) radiation.
The short answer is, radios don't like the electromagnetic pulses from unshielded wires.
If you still have the old wires, put 'em back in and you may see the static go away. Then you will know to get better shielding.
I just recently bought an 01 f150 crew 2wd with 29k miles and i am having hesitation problems when i try to pull out into traffic, i floor it and the truck just hesitates. Any ideas or suggestions, i am also running the a/c during this (100 degree alabama heat)
I sat inside the new 2004 Ford F150 XLT SuperCab 4x4 pickup truck on display at Wiscasset Ford, Wiscasset, Maine. I did not test drive the vehicle but gave it a cursory examination.
The vehicle had the smaller V8 engine which was rated 14 - 18 miles per gallon. Thus, I assume the new 5.4 V8 engine will get a little less mileage. Interestingly, the 2004 brochure is really very well done but there is NO mention of the fuel economy of either V8 engine!
The interior had a bench seat with little or no legroom for the middle occupant as there is a 4 wheel drive selector shift plus 2 uneccessary cup holders in the floor. That said, the quality and practicality of the 2 tone fabric upholstery was first rate and the nicest I have ever seen in a pickup truck.
By all means, do NOT open and shut the glove compartment or you will be sadly disappointed. It closes to the sound of a cheap piece of tin and kind of scares one into wondering about the vehicle's overall quality. After all, it IS the little things that count.
One other small negative. There is no hand hold when getting into the rear seat.
I'm glad I don't buy trucks based on 3 passengers per row seating, or glove boxes. I haven't seen one in the flesh yet, but I do love all the pictures I have seen thus far. Looks much better than previous models.
Thanks for your input. Here is the info off the door: front GAWR: 3100 lbs, rear GAWR: 3660 lbs, GVWR: 6350 lbs, and on the bumper itself, it says max of 5000 lbs.
I do think that Ford gave me that 2000 lb figure for off of the bumper alone. I recently took it to a mechanic (who is pretty trustworthy) and he said I can tow without any problem and wouldn't need the tow package (after he checked it out), but I would feel much better with one, so I am checking prices out for that.
I have always had Explorers before and this is my first truck, so maybe that is why I am not used to more of a bumpy ride?I guess I figured that this truck is more expensive, so the ride would be smooth. I had the tires checked out and they checked out fine (says the dealer's tire guy) but an outside person said that there were flat spots and the dealer refuses to do anything since they say things are fine.
I have a 98 F150 that I bought new and experienced vibration from 45mph up. The dealer tried realigning the engine, transmission and rear to no avail. They installed new hangers on exhaust system and a anti vibration kit on the rear bumper. At this time the mechanic saw excessive runout on the driveshaft and replaced that. Most of the vibes were gone but it still was not right. Then the Firestone tire problem showed up, mine did not qualify so I bought BF Goodrich tires and the ride was better. After my Ford warranty expired (60k) a clunk was being heard from the tranny. They tore down the transmission and found big problems. Since my Ryan extended warranty refused to pay for the job I told Ford to do something or I would have a TV news crew over to visit them. They supplied the parts and I got a bill for $800 labor. If this is any help to you with a 2003 I doubt they have done much to correct the vibe problem til 04.
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As I exit a corner and accelerate, the transmission downshifts, at the same time I feel a clunk and I hear a grinding noise. Speed is approx 10-20 mph, wheels are straight ahead. This happens when the when the engine is cold and when it is warm.
I'd say it's probably the limited slip trying to engage as you accelerate around that corner. I used to have a GM truck with the locking diff. If I had the truck loaded or pulling a heavy trailer, it would lock in a turn as soon as I started to accelerate. It would stay locked until well past the turn, unlocking with a load bang and a jerk in the rear end.
Anyone having similar problems with tranny. When at a stop I pull out and there is some hesitation and then a clunk before the truck moves. Have noticed when cruising at highway speeds and I give gas the truck will give a clunk from the transmission and the begin to move faster. This does not happen all the time but enough to notice it. I have 2002 screw 4.6L with 12000 miles on it. Any idea what this could be?
Sounds like a trip to the dealer. Had a problem with cracked flywheel on '95 F150 5.0L that made similar type of clunking noise when truck was less than year old. When load changed, felt this clunk through the drivetrain. Subtle at first, but kept increasing over time. Once they were finally able to hear the noise, the Dealer went nuts trying to figure things out. They checked driveshaft, universal joints, motor mounts, suspension, bushings for transmission mounting yoke, etc., etc. . Truck finally stored a code that pointed to transmission slip. They went to pull tranny and found flywheel defect.
I'm considering getting into a new 2003 F-150 as prices have been driven down by the 2004 model. I'm wondering if there are any common issues with the 4wd SuperCrew Shortbed that I should be aware of and possibly get taken care of under warranty?
I just purchased a 2003 Ford F-150 Supercrew in June of this year, for the last three weeks I have noticed a rattler from from my door. Does anyone have this problem and if so what should I do to correct this problem.
.......for the last three weeks I have noticed a rattler from from my door.
Pin it down just behind the head with a forked stick?
Seriously, this what your warranty is for. Don't go ripping off the door trim yourself and possibly damaging it. Take it back to the dealer to have it dealt with. The cost of dealing with warranty problems was included in the price you paid for your vehicle.
I have an `03 F150 Lariet with the 5.4 Triton and associated 4sp-auto. It has a definite whirring sound at idle, that changes pitch as I go through the upshifts. I can't tell if it is the engine, tranny, or some combination of the two. I haven't gone back to the dealer yet, but any ideas as to what it is? I have heard louder versions of this on older vehicles in parking lots as they idle by.
I have a 2001 F-150 supercab. Lately my truck has been making some pretty loud squeaking noises whenever it goes over the slightest bump. It seems to be coming from the rear of the truck on the passenger side. It kind of sounds like the sound a chain would make if it was smacked against another chain. I'm not sure what's wrong with it. Any ideas? Thanks a bunch.
I have a 2001 F350 diesel and about 2 months ago, driving a 4 lane near home, the diesel cut off. I tried putting it in neutral still moving and trying to start it, but it would not start. We coasted to a side road and let it set a few minutes and it then started. It did not repeat the problem the next week, before I left on vacation. I did take it to the dealer for service, but they found nothing wrong. We hooked up the 5th wheel trailer and drove 360 miles to North Georgia. While in the area, the truck occasioally would miss, one beat, and then continue to run fine. It did this a total of maybe 6 or 7 times during the 5 weeks we were there. On the trip back, with the trailer attached, it missed one stroke and then ran fine, as before. I had the front end aligned while in Augusta, but they could not find a problem but did change a sensor they said might cause the problem. Since we have returned, we have had the "miss one beat" several times, and it has cut off while idleing three times. One time it did not want to start again. I waited 10 minutes and it started up right away. The only unusual thing I have noticed is that when towing my 5th wheel and listening to a weak AM station, I would get radio interference at the top of a grade, and if I let off on the excellerator, the interference would disappear. Has anyone experienced a problem like this or have a suggestion as to what I might look for causing this highly intermittant problem. Any help appreciated.
The first thing I would check is the Cam Position Sensor. Lots of owners with the Powerstroke have had this happen. In fact, several I know of even keep a spare in the glovebox. But, usually when they fail, the truck dies and won't restart. If you're still under your 100k warranty, then take it to the dealer and tell them about it. Tell them what you think it is. However, probably all they'll do is scan it and say there is nothing wrong.
I haven't had this trouble, knock on wood, but from what I'm being told, it's a fairly easy 10-15 minute roadside fix. I think all you need is a 10mm end wrench. But I could be wrong. You might want to check out that wrench size. As far as buying one, don't go to Ford for it. Go to the nearest IH/Navistar dealer/parts store for it. I'm not sure what Ford wants for one, but the identical part at the IH store will run you about $80.
Of course, I'm assuming you keep the oil level up and you don't let it get low. Also I'm assuming you change the fuel filter on a regular basis.
I took my F350 Diesel to our local Ford Dealer. I told them that the Ford Dealer in Augusta had guessed that the Cam sensor might cause the trouble and they had billed for the Sensor replacement, (warranty) but that I still had the trouble. After keeping my truck overnight, I spoke to the mechanic working on it and he said he thought it was the Cam sensor too, but had noted that the Augusta dealer had replaced it. During the conversation, I asked him if it was possible they had put in a defective one or in fact had not replaced it at all. He agreed to check it out and he found that it HAD NOT been replaced, as the mount was rusty and not new replacement looking. He replaced it and it seems to have corrected the problem. While I was in Augusta, I took it in for a front end alignment and the service writer had suggested the Cam sensor as a possible cause of the cut off problem. Apparently, the mechanic that worked on my truck, did not get the word to change it, or just cut the corner, knowing I was from out of town. I was also struck by the fact that I had to buy a front end part in order for them to adjust it during the alignment. Apparently, Ford does not have an adjustable front end. Considering the problems they have had with front ends, this seems strange to me. My front end adjustment was almost $200. The other work was done in warranty. (not replacing the billed sensor included.) He did replace the shock (stablelizer) under warranty for shimmying. The dealership is in Evans, on Washington Road. I was impressed with the Service Writer, and their operation, but they have a mechanic they need to check on. Skipjack2
I concur with mullins87. Keep the fuel filter clean and there is one other part that might be to blame that I've seen no one else mention. The fuel lift pump--known in gas engines as the fuel pump. On the first IH engines used by Ford there was a fuel pump before the injector pump and fuel filter that moved fuel from the tank up to the engine. I assume they still use a similar arrangement. I had one of the first Ford vans with a diesel in it, and started having an intermittent problem of the engine just stopping running. Assuming it was probably the fuel filter I would change it and the engine would restart. The fuel filter came off upright, so no fuel was spilled, yet I noticed it would not be full of fuel when I changed it. When that was done, however, the engine would start and run, so the problem was intermittent. It was a logical next step to consider the lift pump, so, as mullins87 reccomends, I went to an IH dealer, got a new one, put it on, and had no more problems. Of course, that engine didn't have all the fancy electronics on it that the new ones do to cause problems.
I don't know how you plan to use a truck or how prices are now, but in looking at them a year or so ago I compared the F-150 CC with 5.4 liter engine to the F-250 and F-350 CC's. By the time I added the cost of that engine and the required transmission the F-150 CC cost as much as the F-250 or F-350 CC configured the way I would need it. And provided more bed space, towing, and carrying capacity.
I don't know when Ford made the change, but the current Superduty's only have one fuel pump. It is mounted on the frame rail less than two feet from the tank. While it is what would have been the lift pump on other engines, the Powerstroke only has this one pump. This engine utilizes a second high pressure oil pump to hydraulically actuate the injectors. This high pressure oil pump is fed by the regular pump in the oil pan. The injectors themselves each have a solenoid that opens the valve to allow the high pressure oil to actuate a plunger which injects the fuel charge into the cylinder. These solenoids work much in the same way as injectors on a gas engine. The only difference is while the gas engine is actually allowing gas to flow through the valve, the diesel fuel never sees this valve, only the high pressure oil.
That is why I made the assumption about the oil level. When the Powerstroke runs low on oil, it will shut down on its own due to the lack of oil being supplied to the high pressure oil pump. That is a nice feature of this system as the engine should shut down before any major damage is done.
I have a 2003 Ford F-150 Supercrew, received an e-mail from my dealer indicating that I need a cold start stablization kit. Check with your dealership for any additional information.
Sounds like Ford may have gone to electric fuel, aka lift, pumps which seem to be far more reliable than the old mechanical ones. The old engines only had one lift pump, as well, the sole purpose of which was to push fuel from the tank level up through the fuel filter to the injector pump, and the injector pump took it from there. If the fuel lift pump burped or worked intermittently, though, it would cause a skip or the engine would just stop, mimicking a dirty or clogged fuel filter. For some reason, once the filter was changed you could turn the engine over and it would purge the air from the system and start again. The only difference was that usually when you removed a fuel filter that was clogged it was still full of fuel, as it was a spin on and fed from the top. But when these were removed it would be down so I realized fuel wasn't getting to it.
The fuel lift pump was mounted on the side of the engine and had an arm that reached inside, which was driven mechanically by, I assume, a lobe on the camshaft.
they've simplified the fuel delivery to the injectors considerably. However, they've made the actually fuel injection process quite a bit more complex and expensive to fix. The process is very straight forward and simple to understand, but harder to pin down a problem and more expesive parts.
How major of surgery is replacing the valve guides on a 6.8 V10? Mine occasionally puffed a bit of blue smoke on cold startups. Only has 9800 miles on it. (Wife drives it). Took it to the dealer and left it overnight to cold start next morning. Of course it did not puff any smoke at all. Next time I took it in it did. They ordered all the needed valve guides. I am wondering what is involved, (how far do they have to tear down the engine), to replace them?? Also, there are no valve stem seals anymore, just the guides??
Thanks,
...don
P.S. Has anyone else heard of this problem with the V10??
I wouldn't worry too much, let them deal with it. But as far as the guides go, only the valve covers and rocker arms need to come off. At least that has been my experience with other motors and I don't imagine that V-10 is any different.
I finally buckled under and "bought American." My brand new 2003 F-150 Lariat Supercab has an annoying vibration in steering wheel and seat @ 45-65 mph. The dealer has been very good about attempting to fix, in 5 visits they have tried new wheels, tires, road force balancing, etc. They have yet to try non OEM wheels/tires. They keep replacing chrome style wheels and 17 inch BF Goodrich all season tires.
I have seen other messages about vibration problems, and service folks from dealer acknowledge that there are other similiar complaints, but no official word from FoMoCo.
This week a Ford Co rep is coming to attempt fix...what are my options in Connecticut?
I hate to say this, but this type of complaint is not completely uncommon on F150s. My daughter and son-in-laws 2001 SuperCrew has a vibration that they can't seem to resolve, either.
But since they don't all do it I am having a difficult time believing there is something inherent in the design. I also hate to say this, but I don't believe there is quite the quality of technical expertise in the field to support contemporary products. Replacing components is as easy as going to the parts counter person and ordering parts.
I know this may sound trite -- and it really isn't intended -- but have they tried some sound diagnostic procedures? Your dealer sounds as if they are at least earnestly concerned. I know a few people that are dealing with other Ford dealers that aren't getting anywhere near the attention that you are. They're getting the old service managers song, "that's normal."
I say this because I know someone who resolved the problem themselves on a F150 SuperCrew -- at their own expense -- and it turned out to be a combination of wheel runout AND tire runout.
Have they tried one of these machines that actually balances out the tire and wheel while they are mounted on the car? Go through the website, there's a page where you can punch in your zip code and find a shop that has one. Supposedly they can find problems, no one else can.
I just had the 30K service for 2000 F150 5.4 SC XLT for $500! Dealer said I had to flush this and that ( and I think I got flushed, too). Anyhow, rough idle still there. Dealer said it's normal. It's intermittant and it makes the whole truck shake. Embarrasing at a stop light. Any ideas would be appreciated.
The effort continues. Again, dealer has been good so far. Two days ago they (they meaning dealership owner, service mgr and 2 Ford reps)took Ford Field Service Engineer for 1oo mile ride after he drove truck and stated "nothing wrong". They noticed problem was at 1800 RPM. As far as balancing tires/wheels on vehicle, yes, they went to another dealer for Road Force Balance. Also, Ford FSE brought magic box diagnostic device, still no good.
They removed driveshaft and vehicle still vibrates at 1800 RPM, etc etc. Dealer stated 2 visits ago I can qualify for new vehicle or buyback. Thank goodness I reported problem while enroute home from taking delivery...Ford wanted to pro-rate mileage and I already have 6000 miles on it. I reported problem 10 mile from dealership.
bmaige, I have a 93 dually with a non-turbo charged 7.3 diesel. So far no problems (only has 75K), just curious...I'm assuming this has the old style fuel pump system that you described on your van? It has the spin on fuel filter near the engine. Also, should I be watching the camshaft position sensor on this engine, or does the older engine even use that sensor?
Rotors warp. Dealers are kind of reluctant to turn or replace them under warranty, and view it as "normal" wear and tear. Seems like they don't want to admit there's a problem. Maybe it only happens to small percentage of Superdutys out there. My 01's been fine, brakes don't pulse, while buddy's '99 PSD is on like 3rd or 4th set of front rotors. He can have rotors turned, run-out measures near perfect and in 2-3 K miles his brakes are pulsing again.
Not sure if it's just the mass of these trucks is too much for stock brakes. If it's heating up brakes in city driving, then going through a puddle of cold water and distorting them. Or, if the local teenager with air gun at tire shop is overtightening the wheel lugs. Some folks report that they have bought aftermarket rotors ($$) that're slotted to dissipate heat better and warping problems have stopped.
Ford definitely has a problem. I put 560k miles on my 99 without a bit of rotor warping. As to aftermarket, I just put a set on. We'll have to wait and see. Thanks for the input.
I'm not sure if 7.3's have a mechanical or electric lift pump or if they have the cam sensor referred to. Mine was one of, if not the first diesels sold in Tallahassee, and I think it was a different engine than the 7.3, something like a 6.9, but don't hold me to that. If yours isn't skipping or stopping on you intermittently I wouldn't worry about it, but I would learn to change the fuel filter and keep an extra one or two under the seat along with the tools to change it. If you do develop a skip or it quits running on you the the first thing I would do is change the fuel filter. If that doesn't work, look further. Does the filter go into a housing upside down, or does it screw on upright?
Anyone heard of a fix on the 6.0 yet? I was in the local Ford dealers, saw one with a 6.0, and asked that paragon of virtue and fountain of knowledge, a salesman, if they had the problems fixed. He assured me they did, it was the injectors, and they got that straightened out in September or so. Anybody heard of that?
Anyone out there driving an 04 Crew Cab yet? I bought one a few weeks ago and am happy with it except for some annoying rattles coming from the dash. I'm surprised being that Ford has been advertising how much stiffer the frame is on the 04 which eliminates any rattles. Is Ford any good at fixing these kinds of problems? I live in Chicago and hoping one of the dealers can fix it. Any input would be appreciated.
I have an 03 Supercrew dash and door rattle problems, I hope that this is not a picture into the future for as far as reliability. May need a trip to the dealer.
I found an XL with 38,500 miles, a pretty good price, crew cab, long wheel base, single rear wheels, four wheel drive and need a work truck. It has automatic tranny. Anyone know of any inherent problems with the 2002's I should know of before I look more closely--like from behind the wheel with a payment book in my pocket?
I don't know of any real problems with those trucks. If the price is right and everything else looks in place, then the only thing I'd suggest would be a complete fluid change when you bring her home.
The Powerstroke has been around since '94 with the 7.3L itself dating back into either the late '80s or early '90s. There were a few problems with the introduction of the Superduty in '98, but I believe most all were worked out by '02.
What was the truck used for? With it only being a little over a year old and 38k miles, it should be in very good condition.
According to the salesman it was used on a farm. I asked if I could get the name of the previous owner and he said he would provide that, so I will call them directly to see why they got rid of it with such low mileage and if they had any problems with it. Like you, with no more miles than that I don't see how it could be hurt unless they drove it into a pond.
definitely give them a call. Unless it is a large corporate farm where they trade all their vehicles at the end of the factory warranty, I'd give that truck a good look.
I'm like you, barring some strange event such as driving it into a pond or being run over by a large piece of equipment, it should be a great truck. Good luck!
I have a 1993 f-150 auto trans. w. 136,000. the transmission has begun to "shutter". other than that it runs fine Should I change the fluid and filter, have the transmission totally flushed or wait it out until it dies and than have a rebuilt installed?
My daughter and son-inlaw have had this problem on two Ford built trucks. I would highly recommend you flushing the fluid and changing the filter. Some use ATF+4 (Dodge) fluid to eliminate the shudder.
Also, bad plugs or plug wires can cause a similar sensation.
Flush and filter change, probably under a hundred dollars. Supply and install a rebuilt transmission, probably close to a thousand dollars (or if it's the E4OD closer to two thousand).
Comments
If the wires and plugs were of the performance variety, they likely do not include the shielding to prevent rfi (radio frequency interference) radiation.
The short answer is, radios don't like the electromagnetic pulses from unshielded wires.
If you still have the old wires, put 'em back in and you may see the static go away. Then you will know to get better shielding.
The vehicle had the smaller V8 engine which was rated 14 - 18 miles per gallon. Thus, I assume the new 5.4 V8 engine will get a little less mileage. Interestingly, the 2004 brochure is really very well done but there is NO mention of the fuel economy of either V8 engine!
The interior had a bench seat with little or no legroom for the middle occupant as there is a 4 wheel drive selector shift plus 2 uneccessary cup holders in the floor. That said, the quality and practicality of the 2 tone fabric upholstery was first rate and the nicest I have ever seen in a pickup truck.
By all means, do NOT open and shut the glove compartment or you will be sadly disappointed. It closes to the sound of a cheap piece of tin and kind of scares one into wondering about the vehicle's overall quality. After all, it IS the little things that count.
One other small negative. There is no hand hold when getting into the rear seat.
Everything else seemed fine.
johnmei
I do think that Ford gave me that 2000 lb figure for off of the bumper alone. I recently took it to a mechanic (who is pretty trustworthy) and he said I can tow without any problem and wouldn't need the tow package (after he checked it out), but I would feel much better with one, so I am checking prices out for that.
I have always had Explorers before and this is my first truck, so maybe that is why I am not used to more of a bumpy ride?I guess I figured that this truck is more expensive, so the ride would be smooth. I had the tires checked out and they checked out fine (says the dealer's tire guy) but an outside person said that there were flat spots and the dealer refuses to do anything since they say things are fine.
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As I exit a corner and accelerate, the transmission downshifts, at the same time I feel a clunk and I hear a grinding noise. Speed is approx 10-20 mph, wheels are straight ahead. This happens when the when the engine is cold and when it is warm.
Any ideas?
Pin it down just behind the head with a forked stick?
Seriously, this what your warranty is for. Don't go ripping off the door trim yourself and possibly damaging it. Take it back to the dealer to have it dealt with. The cost of dealing with warranty problems was included in the price you paid for your vehicle.
Thanks,
Skipjack2
I haven't had this trouble, knock on wood, but from what I'm being told, it's a fairly easy 10-15 minute roadside fix. I think all you need is a 10mm end wrench. But I could be wrong. You might want to check out that wrench size. As far as buying one, don't go to Ford for it. Go to the nearest IH/Navistar dealer/parts store for it. I'm not sure what Ford wants for one, but the identical part at the IH store will run you about $80.
Of course, I'm assuming you keep the oil level up and you don't let it get low. Also I'm assuming you change the fuel filter on a regular basis.
That is why I made the assumption about the oil level. When the Powerstroke runs low on oil, it will shut down on its own due to the lack of oil being supplied to the high pressure oil pump. That is a nice feature of this system as the engine should shut down before any major damage is done.
Just thought you'd like to know.
The fuel lift pump was mounted on the side of the engine and had an arm that reached inside, which was driven mechanically by, I assume, a lobe on the camshaft.
How major of surgery is replacing the valve guides on a 6.8 V10?
Mine occasionally puffed a bit of blue smoke on cold startups.
Only has 9800 miles on it. (Wife drives it). Took it to the dealer
and left it overnight to cold start next morning. Of course it did
not puff any smoke at all. Next time I took it in it did. They ordered
all the needed valve guides. I am wondering what is involved, (how far
do they have to tear down the engine), to replace them?? Also, there
are no valve stem seals anymore, just the guides??
Thanks,
...don
P.S. Has anyone else heard of this problem with the V10??
I have seen other messages about vibration problems, and service folks from dealer acknowledge that there are other similiar complaints, but no official word from FoMoCo.
This week a Ford Co rep is coming to attempt fix...what are my options in Connecticut?
But since they don't all do it I am having a difficult time believing there is something inherent in the design. I also hate to say this, but I don't believe there is quite the quality of technical expertise in the field to support contemporary products. Replacing components is as easy as going to the parts counter person and ordering parts.
I know this may sound trite -- and it really isn't intended -- but have they tried some sound diagnostic procedures? Your dealer sounds as if they are at least earnestly concerned. I know a few people that are dealing with other Ford dealers that aren't getting anywhere near the attention that you are. They're getting the old service managers song, "that's normal."
I say this because I know someone who resolved the problem themselves on a F150 SuperCrew -- at their own expense -- and it turned out to be a combination of wheel runout AND tire runout.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Have they tried one of these machines that actually balances out the tire and wheel while they are mounted on the car? Go through the website, there's a page where you can punch in your zip code and find a shop that has one. Supposedly they can find problems, no one else can.
http://128.242.141.111/index.cfm
They removed driveshaft and vehicle still vibrates at 1800 RPM, etc etc. Dealer stated 2 visits ago I can qualify for new vehicle or buyback. Thank goodness I reported problem while enroute home from taking delivery...Ford wanted to pro-rate mileage and I already have 6000 miles on it. I reported problem 10 mile from dealership.
Welcome from a Jr. Bilge Rat!
"Come On Down" ;-)
RWNJ
Not sure if it's just the mass of these trucks is too much for stock brakes. If it's heating up brakes in city driving, then going through a puddle of cold water and distorting them. Or, if the local teenager with air gun at tire shop is overtightening the wheel lugs. Some folks report that they have bought aftermarket rotors ($$) that're slotted to dissipate heat better and warping problems have stopped.
Anyone heard of a fix on the 6.0 yet? I was in the local Ford dealers, saw one with a 6.0, and asked that paragon of virtue and fountain of knowledge, a salesman, if they had the problems fixed. He assured me they did, it was the injectors, and they got that straightened out in September or so. Anybody heard of that?
Any input appreciated.
The Powerstroke has been around since '94 with the 7.3L itself dating back into either the late '80s or early '90s. There were a few problems with the introduction of the Superduty in '98, but I believe most all were worked out by '02.
What was the truck used for? With it only being a little over a year old and 38k miles, it should be in very good condition.
I'm like you, barring some strange event such as driving it into a pond or being run over by a large piece of equipment, it should be a great truck. Good luck!
Should I change the fluid and filter, have the transmission totally flushed or wait it out until it dies and than have a rebuilt installed?
thanks
Also, bad plugs or plug wires can cause a similar sensation.
Good luck,
Dusty
Hmmmm............ I know which I'd try first!