Help!!! I have a new '04 F150 and have had a similar problem as DanF150. I have had the truck for over two months. I complained to the dealer immediately after taking delivery of a vibration in the steering. After much heartache, Ford replaced the rack & pinion and said this would fix the problem. Of course, it didn't. I have been jerked around, ignored, and finally Ford is going to replace the tires. I do not believe this will fix the vibration as I have driven other 04 F150's and felt some degree of shake. I am fed up and want out!! Is there any hope?? Please help me!!
There's hope, but you have to play it shrewd. You've got a new model truck - it's gonna take Ford some time to gain insight into the problems that are showing up. Dealer's service and Ford in general are learning, and unfortunately, you're the Guinea Pig with a new model vehicle. It may take them some time to sort out your problem First off, keep your cool (in general service people want to help you out so that they earn that all important "excellent" service rating that gets them brownie points from Ford). I know your truck is a lot of money, but if you go in there screaming, they won't be so helpful. Talk to them calmly and cooly and explain that you're not satisfied with their repair attempts. Keep copious records of everything that was done to your truck - keep all the receipts and service sheets - also keep notes on and write down the names of everybody you've dealt with in person or on the phone - along with times and dates. If you're not happy with current service dept., try going to a different dealer. Sometimes a different mechanic might have a different insight into the problem. Explain the problem as you see it, and also tell them that you're dissatisfied with Dealer XYZ and why. New service department would love to have your business. If you still can't get satisfaction - bring in Ford Corporate. Look in the back of your Ford Warranty manual - it'll have a section on contacting the Regional Representative to bring bigger guns to bear on your problem. They have special mechanics and field engineers, etc. to look at your problem - they also have different insights into problems the vehicles may be having as have a broader view of repair trends than your local dealer. Now all this will be maddeningly inconvenient - you're gonna have to make multiple service appointments, and probably be without truck alot. Basically, you have to give Ford ample chance to be able to fix your vehicle. However, once you've done this, and if the vehicle hasn't been repaired to your satisfaction - you've now got all the records to show that how much they tried, and how many days your vehicle was laid up while they attempted repairs. Once you've done this you've got great ammunition to begin Lemon Law proceedings, or to go into arbitration with Ford to have them replace your vehicle. Do a search on Lemon Law to find out the specific laws that apply to your state. Vehicle has to be out of service X amount of days, and Y unsuccessful repair attempts have to have been made for Lemon Law to apply. Good Luck.
Excellent advice from wpalkowski. Try to be as unemotional as possible and keep good notes.
Remember, that by buying the first model build from any manufacturer you volunteer to be a real time product tester. It's just the price you pay for being the first on the block.
However, I understand your frustration. A mysterious problem with the vehicle's software would be far more understandable than something as basic, and reproducible, as a steering vibration.
It's ironic that while the main focus of the advertising for the new F150 seems to have centered on the 'quiet smooth ride', I read here and many places elsewhere of steering and suspension vibrations, clunks, shudders, and of noises from behind the dash area.
I owned a 2001 2wd XLT Supercrew, 2001 4wd XLT Supercrew, and a 2003 FX4 XLT Supercrew (5.4 V8, 3.73 posi-rearend, tow pkg) and experienced the vibration problem you described on the 03 model. It happened at certain highway speeds. I never took the truck back or complained, just a slight inconvienance. I don't have a heavy foot and Gas mileage was 16-18 hwy and around 15-16 city.
I really enjoyed my SuperCrews, never had any major problems or complaints and agree the 6-cd changer in console is a pain in the butt to access when driving the vehicle. Alas, I wanted a diesel and recently sold the 03 and moved up to an 04 2500 Dodge Quad Cab 4x4 with HO Cummins and 4.10 rear end. Looked at F250, but just too darn expensive and couldn't get it in a stick. And the Dodge dealer offered me $1500 more than the Ford Dealer for trade-in. At 3,000 miles, Dodge Fuel mileage 18-22 city!
You couldn't get the F-250 with a stick?!?!?!? I hope by that you mean you couldn't find one on the lot. Believe me, you can get one with a stick. I know, I have one.
Eventhough I'm a Ford fan, I think you'll really enjoy that new Cummins engine. I haven't had the opportunity to drive the new Dodge, but I have heard the engine run. I am amazed at how quiet and smooth it is, especially considering how loud the old version is.
Hello to everyone on the list and Happy Holidays! I own a '97 F-150 RC/LB XLT 4X4 and noticed the other day that the rear leaf spring on the driver's side is starting to sag, not too bad yet, but is is noticeable. The truck has never been overloaded and it hasn't towed anything in about a year. I've had pickups since '79 and this is the first one that has ever done that. Is the leaf going bad, or could it be the mounts? Can't do much work on truck myself do to surgery, just wondering if anyone else out their has had this happen. Truck only has 53k as of this post, mostly highway and all maintenance is current. Any suggestions welcome, thanking in advance.
No firsthand experience here, sorry. However, I don't think you're alone. An associate of mine has a '96 Bronco. I know, different bodystyle and everything. But, his rear springs are sagging too. It looks as if he is hauling a heavy load all the time.
My suggestions to him have included the cheaper route; install some aftermarket overload springs. That will restore the ride height, but probably make it ride rough. The slightly more expensive route of having the springs re-arched. I don't know of anyone around here that does that sort of thing. And the expensive routes of either buying an airbag setup for the rearend or purchasing new factory springs.
Unless you can find some evidence that the leaf spring hangers or shackles are the cause, I'd bet it's just the springs loosing their arch.
Something else you should look for. You could have a broken leaf. A broken leaf in the middle of the stack can be hard to spot sometimes. Check those as well.
i had the same problem with my f150.i found one broken leaf.i had a new set installed,and after a year noticed it leaning a little to the drivers side.i have dual fuel tanks and after they are filled up was when it was worst.the larger tank is on the drivers side so even with good springs my truck will always lean especially with a driver.you would think aftermarket springs would be labeled left and right to compensate for this.
I think you'll likely find that after five years or so when you see a ride height problem it will be due to a cracked half-leaf, either the third or fourth. This is a moderately common occurence.
Thanks to all on the list with suggestions regarding rear leaf sagging on '97 F-150. My son got under the truck on Sun. afternoon and nothing he could see around shackles or saddle. Will have too take into dealer or mechanic friend who has a shop and see what the story is. Again, thank you to all and Merry Christmas.
Excellent advice as far as working with dealer....mine has been super so far and really has made a huge difference. I also have called the ford customer service # in the manual, but they never call back (I think they fwd the wueries to dealer).
At this point, Ford had submitted a buy back offer. It i simperative you make complaint early, and document it. They attempt to charge you for mileage used, I have mine frozen at zero as I made complaint to dealer svc mgr within 10 miles of picking up vehicle.
I think FoMoCo prefers this to consumer going with Lemon Law. I live in CT, they have excellent consumer protection website. They figure 4 visits (I have 9) and/or 30 days without use of vehicle in 2 years constitutes Lemon
I did everything EXCEPT go for half hour ride with dealer when I picked it up, my mistake.
At this point, Road Force balancing, 2 sets of tires (always OEM for some reason?), driveshaftremoval and balancing (twice), and running engine with driveshaft out still gives vibration at approx 1800 RPM.
I hope 2004 does better for me, I am hoping 5.4 may be smoother than 4.6
Thanks for all the input folks. I am having the tires replaced this week (with OEM as you said Dan) and hope this may help. I am also curious Dan if the Buyback offer was legitimate and/or fair. I would love to have this option now so that I could reevaluate and start over. Thanks for any input out there!!! Bill
The offer is MSRP paid, as credit towards new MSRP. I do not want to sound whiny, but I am not thrilled about coughing up approx 1800 dollars for 2004 all because my 2003 was No Good. I researched the 2003 Lariat to death, waited for the truck I wanted, and got a Lemon. Now I am paying more for a 2004?
The process is still underway. I have not sent in my CT State Lemon Law request, but have been assured I have a water tight case. I am, however, going to make a deal with FoMoCo if they give me anything close to an even swap. even though I like the looks and interior of my 2003 better. I am HOPING the 2004 has resolved vibration issue
I wanted to make sure my point on tires is clear. Instead of BR Goodrich Long Trails and Ford wheels that came on new truck, I thought it would make sense to try another brand entirely. I located another set of 17" tires and wheels, but Ford wanted dealer to stay with OEM? Tire store was willing to try, but said upfront that IF I invested approx 800 dollars on all new wheels/tires, they did not want them back a week later. Road Force balancing indicated a definite problem with wheel/tire, and there's enough weight on my wheels to start a lead mine.
It turns out that tires were/are only a portion of problem, as they kept trying driveshaft balance, drivebelts, and vibration persisted, but I still feel aftermarket tires and wheels were large source of the defect.
Well if you spell Ford backwards it's DROF. I DROF A FORD and converted from Dodge. I hope I made the right decision.
As luck would have it, the very day I drof my shinny new Bright Red FX4 home, a noise from the left front drive train became a huge concern. The next morning at the service line I was told that none of the new Fords have come in for mechanical problems, only oil changes. It really stumped them. Upon test driving the truck with listening devices all over the bottom of it, a bad hub was diagnosed. We left it there for repairs with the understanding we were not in the market for a PROJECT VEHICLE. Continuing with us taking delivery of this one would be based on whether or not it turned out to be a simple fix, and/or if they could find an exact replacement.
Well the hub was not the exact problem. The noise continued. The diaphragm actuator was not fully disengaging causing the splines to clank against one other. I really am disappointed that me as a fresh convert to Ford got such a bad start.
Due to no other exact replacement vehicles any where in San Antonio, we are taking the leap of faith that this is the only problem we encounter!
Is the 5-speed transmission in the 1997-03 generation still the same Mazda M50D as found in the previous body style? If so, I have heard nothing but negative things about this tranny.
Check for missing or broken shackles, too. Sometimes the shackles will fall off, and you don't realize it because you hadn't noticed them until they're gone.
I own a 89 f-150,v-8,5.0 with a auto tranny and i notice when driving i get a jerk which seem to be coming from under the truck every time the tranny change gear and this feels rough,can anyone give me an idea of what's going on!so i can deal with it before too late. Thanks
It jerks when upshifting or downshifting? Which gear? If this is a new condition, then yes, I would say a problem is developing. Let's see, in '89 I don't think Ford was making any fully electronic transmissions, so unless it's jerking from 4-3 then your problem is most likely mechanical. You need to see what shift control mechanisms you have on that truck, probably some type of throttle rod and/or a vaccum modulator. Failure or misadjustment of these compontents can cause odd shift patterns. If it's an internal problem, like accumulator valve seals hardening and sticking, then the solution could be as simple as a fluid and filter change. I've had really good luck with Bar's Leaks transmission seal conditioner, a translucent red liquid available at parts stores. It's done a good job smooting out some old Ford transmissions that I've owned, added in with a fresh fluid change. Good luck.
wijoco mentioned what i would suggest.the AOD transmission would not have a vacuum modulator.it would have either linkage or a cable to control shifts.i would check these for a binding condition especially at the transmission.
My f-150 thus shift with a jerk in all gears when shifting upward it may not be the tranny,it maybe something else which is jerking,the truck has done that since i bought it in may of 02,i have to do some work on the truck,which i did like change transfer case seal,gaskets fluid etc. I have to check the mounts to see what condition they are in,I like this truck and need to keep it working.
Anyone else getting bad reception from the Ford radios in their SCrew? Dealership changed out radio with 'updated' model and problem persisted. Tech working case says he see this problem all the time, and swapping antenna doesn't seem to help, either. Note: new 'updated' radio has noisy fan.
I love Ford trucks. I have owned Ford trucks for over 20 years. I just traded my 2001 F250 for a 2004 F150. Better mileage, smoother ride, new look had me hooked. Well after 150 miles, with my kids in the truck, I went to stop and the pedal hit the floor. I hit the emergency brake and limped into the dealer. Well, they had to replace the master brake cylinder. I hope this was a one time problem or Ford had better start selling something else if thier 25% market share in F150's continue to deliver this type of disapointment.
I'm sure if there was a problem with every master cylinder in every 2004 F-series, we would hear about it on dateline by now. Sorry to hear it happened to you, but do realize that you can't produce and sell the most popular truck in North America and not have a few defective parts come through the assembly line. 150 miles could mean it never showed any signs of a problem, until the failure. Again, sorry it happened.
My 90 F-150 won't come out of low range. The shifter will move and all the linkages to the transfer case are operating properly, but when I shift I stay in 4 low range. Any ideas. Thanks
In that case the t/c needs to be removed and opened up to determine the problem. A t/c is pretty basic so a repair shouldn't be too difficult/expensive.
Sorry to read about your brake problem with the new truck. I'm glad that you and your family wasn't in a crash as a result. I agree with Michael. With that many units being produced and sold, it's inevitable that a few defective parts are going to slip through QC. Something like that could've happened on any vehicle, new or old. I've had it happen with a brand new replacement unit.
Hi hope everyone had a happy new year. I own a 99 f-150 with 75k miles on it and need to replace the upper and lower ball joints. I have replaced them before on other cars. My repair manual states that the upper and lower have to be replace with the upper and lower control arm and the ball joints themselves are not replacable by themselves only. Is this true and how hard is it to replace them. I have read on previous posts that some people are paying from $600 to $900 to replace them. They don't look to difficult to replace just want to know if anyone else has replaced there own a how hard was it.
You do not have to replace the upper and lower control arms to replace the ball joints. I think you will find that Ford only spares the joint with the A-arm. However, after market ball joint replacements are available. You will need to drill out and remove the rivets to remove the old ball joint. The new joint will be re-installed using bolts.
See your local auto parts jobber and they can help you.
Purchased my truck Dec 4.Have the bad fortune of buying the 255 General Tires for extra $$.If in deed that's the problem.Seems Ford is being very quiet about this steering vibration over 60mph. Found they have a 4 page tech bulletin fix. Fords first fix is to put on 2 new tires out of 4.Problem is that evidently General Tire hasn't got enough to replace them. Having been waiting for 2 weeks for tires. Seem it would make good since to replace all 4 with a diff brand if this is the problem. No one wants to talk about it much.I've been running Toyotas since 85.Ford sure knows how to suck the life out of buying a new truck. Thanks for listening.
I have a 2003 Ford Supercrew 4x4 and I have the same problem. This is my first truck and I attribute the rough ride to the 4x4, maybe I need to replace all four tires with Michelin truck tires. To bad that this is not a recall issue and I would not have to spend 700 to 800 $ for tie replacements.
It is very important to document problems now. I bought brand spanking new 2003 F150 in September, vibration was immediately apparent so I documented my mileage at "zero" with dealer.
6 new tires, 2 new wheels, and a dozen visits later and the Ford still shakes. Ford field reps made attempt at saying it was normal truck ride, but dealer stepped up to the plate; I bought 30,000 dollar Lariat to be my highway vehicle, not a rattler. It seemed like a balance/wheel problem, but I swear it is motor or tranny.
When Ford's vehicle buy back folks made my deal, it was at zero miles. I am still not thrilled, because I am the oddball buyer that likes 2003 looks better, and Heritage doesn't come in Lariat interior, but if new 2004 Lariat is half the truck they claim it is, I guess I should be happy. They initially wanted me to pay for difference in MSRP, but again dealer negotiated a better deal.
I am in the military and my dealership where I brought my truck is 325 miles away from my resident. I don't think any dealership in Hampton Va. will take care of this situation for me, maybe I will e-mail the place where I purchase it from. Thank for your insightful advice.
I have a '01 SuperCrew, Automatic. Whenever I lower the steering wheel tilt a few notches below the highest setting, my left turn signal blinks and clicks rapidly on the dash, but is does not work at all outside!
Since I never go off-road, would a 2wd supercab be albe to get me around all right without any problems if equipped with snow tires? We don't get a lot of snow here in mid-Missouri, but I like to be ready for it if it comes.
2 wd pickups are reasonable in the snow. A real snow tire - not just an All Terrain (AT) tire makes a big difference in handling. It's obviously not going to be as good as a 4x4, but I drove the same truck for many winters and never really got stuck too bad. The only real problem I ever had was trying to back up my snowy driveway. If I knew snow was forecast, I'd turn the truck around to be able to go out forward and as long as the plow hadn't dumped 3 ft. of snow at the end of the driveway I'd get out. There's one big trick to help keep moving - you need extra weight in the bed to allow the rear wheels to dig into the snow and get grip. I usually buy six or eight bags of "tube sand" from Home Depot, or Lowes . They are 3 foot long tube-shaped bags about 8" in diameter; they weigh about 60 lbs each, and fit nicely in the unused spaces around the wheel wells (if it's a fleetside \pickup). I built a frame outta 2x6 lumber that helps to hold the bags against the bed rails, otherwise they tend to slide around in back. You can use other stuff to add weight, but I prefer sand as you've always got a ready supply of traction material in the event you do get stuck. Just remember that the truck's much heavier than any cars you've driven - you've got to allow yourself longer stopping distances (even with ABS) and don't try to take turns too quickly because even with weight in the back, the rear end can still break loose relatively easily if you push it too hard. All this becomes second nature once you driven around for a while in winter. One other note - if you get an ice storm... stay home! Pickups really suck on glare ice. I rode my F350 Crew Cab 4x4 sideways down a hill last week for a few hundred yards. I was stopped at the crest and truck just started sliding all by itself before I even took my foot off the brake. Had no steering whatsoever, and the rear end decided to try to pass the front. Luckily I didn't hit anything, but had to change my shorts when I finally got home.
I had a 98 F150 XLT 4wd supercab that I should've kept that never failed me (and never passed a gas sation either LOL).....but hindsight is always 20-20 I suppose. Thanks for your input Walter!
as usual! With the exception of one 4x4 K1500 and a Wrangler I bought just three months ago, I've always driven 2wd trucks. My current truck is an F-350 dually. 500lbs of those sand bags really do make a difference. And, as Walt noted, they provide great traction material when needed. And as another bonus, you can use them to fill the kids sandbox in the spring.
Comments
First off, keep your cool (in general service people want to help you out so that they earn that all important "excellent" service rating that gets them brownie points from Ford). I know your truck is a lot of money, but if you go in there screaming, they won't be so helpful. Talk to them calmly and cooly and explain that you're not satisfied with their repair attempts. Keep copious records of everything that was done to your truck - keep all the receipts and service sheets - also keep notes on and write down the names of everybody you've dealt with in person or on the phone - along with times and dates.
If you're not happy with current service dept., try going to a different dealer. Sometimes a different mechanic might have a different insight into the problem. Explain the problem as you see it, and also tell them that you're dissatisfied with Dealer XYZ and why. New service department would love to have your business.
If you still can't get satisfaction - bring in Ford Corporate. Look in the back of your Ford Warranty manual - it'll have a section on contacting the Regional Representative to bring bigger guns to bear on your problem. They have special mechanics and field engineers, etc. to look at your problem - they also have different insights into problems the vehicles may be having as have a broader view of repair trends than your local dealer.
Now all this will be maddeningly inconvenient - you're gonna have to make multiple service appointments, and probably be without truck alot. Basically, you have to give Ford ample chance to be able to fix your vehicle. However, once you've done this, and if the vehicle hasn't been repaired to your satisfaction - you've now got all the records to show that how much they tried, and how many days your vehicle was laid up while they attempted repairs. Once you've done this you've got great ammunition to begin Lemon Law proceedings, or to go into arbitration with Ford to have them replace your vehicle.
Do a search on Lemon Law to find out the specific laws that apply to your state. Vehicle has to be out of service X amount of days, and Y unsuccessful repair attempts have to have been made for Lemon Law to apply.
Good Luck.
Remember, that by buying the first model build from any manufacturer you volunteer to be a real time product tester. It's just the price you pay for being the first on the block.
However, I understand your frustration. A mysterious problem with the vehicle's software would be far more understandable than something as basic, and reproducible, as a steering vibration.
It's ironic that while the main focus of the advertising for the new F150 seems to have centered on the 'quiet smooth ride', I read here and many places elsewhere of steering and suspension vibrations, clunks, shudders, and of noises from behind the dash area.
I really enjoyed my SuperCrews, never had any major problems or complaints and agree the 6-cd changer in console is a pain in the butt to access when driving the vehicle. Alas, I wanted a diesel and recently sold the 03 and moved up to an 04 2500 Dodge Quad Cab 4x4 with HO Cummins and 4.10 rear end. Looked at F250, but just too darn expensive and couldn't get it in a stick. And the Dodge dealer offered me $1500 more than the Ford Dealer for trade-in. At 3,000 miles, Dodge Fuel mileage 18-22 city!
Eventhough I'm a Ford fan, I think you'll really enjoy that new Cummins engine. I haven't had the opportunity to drive the new Dodge, but I have heard the engine run. I am amazed at how quiet and smooth it is, especially considering how loud the old version is.
Sincerely,
Paul
My suggestions to him have included the cheaper route; install some aftermarket overload springs. That will restore the ride height, but probably make it ride rough. The slightly more expensive route of having the springs re-arched. I don't know of anyone around here that does that sort of thing. And the expensive routes of either buying an airbag setup for the rearend or purchasing new factory springs.
Unless you can find some evidence that the leaf spring hangers or shackles are the cause, I'd bet it's just the springs loosing their arch.
Something else you should look for. You could have a broken leaf. A broken leaf in the middle of the stack can be hard to spot sometimes. Check those as well.
Look for cracks near the saddle area.
Regards,
Dusty
Sincerely,
Paul
At this point, Ford had submitted a buy back offer. It i simperative you make complaint early, and document it. They attempt to charge you for mileage used, I have mine frozen at zero as I made complaint to dealer svc mgr within 10 miles of picking up vehicle.
I think FoMoCo prefers this to consumer going with Lemon Law. I live in CT, they have excellent consumer protection website. They figure 4 visits (I have 9) and/or 30 days without use of vehicle in 2 years constitutes Lemon
I did everything EXCEPT go for half hour ride with dealer when I picked it up, my mistake.
At this point, Road Force balancing, 2 sets of tires (always OEM for some reason?), driveshaftremoval and balancing (twice), and running engine with driveshaft out still gives vibration at approx 1800 RPM.
I hope 2004 does better for me, I am hoping 5.4 may be smoother than 4.6
dan
Bill
The process is still underway. I have not sent in my CT State Lemon Law request, but have been assured I have a water tight case. I am, however, going to make a deal with FoMoCo if they give me anything close to an even swap. even though I like the looks and interior of my 2003 better. I am HOPING the 2004 has resolved vibration issue
I wanted to make sure my point on tires is clear. Instead of BR Goodrich Long Trails and Ford wheels that came on new truck, I thought it would make sense to try another brand entirely. I located another set of 17" tires and wheels, but Ford wanted dealer to stay with OEM? Tire store was willing to try, but said upfront that IF I invested approx 800 dollars on all new wheels/tires, they did not want them back a week later. Road Force balancing indicated a definite problem with wheel/tire, and there's enough weight on my wheels to start a lead mine.
It turns out that tires were/are only a portion of problem, as they kept trying driveshaft balance, drivebelts, and vibration persisted, but I still feel aftermarket tires and wheels were large source of the defect.
As luck would have it, the very day I drof my shinny new Bright Red FX4 home, a noise from the left front drive train became a huge concern. The next morning at the service line I was told that none of the new Fords have come in for mechanical problems, only oil changes. It really stumped them. Upon test driving the truck with listening devices all over the bottom of it, a bad hub was diagnosed. We left it there for repairs with the understanding we were not in the market for a PROJECT VEHICLE. Continuing with us taking delivery of this one would be based on whether or not it turned out to be a simple fix, and/or if they could find an exact replacement.
Well the hub was not the exact problem. The noise continued. The diaphragm actuator was not fully disengaging causing the splines to clank against one other. I really am disappointed that me as a fresh convert to Ford got such a bad start.
Due to no other exact replacement vehicles any where in San Antonio, we are taking the leap of faith that this is the only problem we encounter!
Any other problems out there with the new Fords?
change gear and this feels rough,can anyone give me an idea of what's going on!so i can deal with it before too late.
Thanks
Let's see, in '89 I don't think Ford was making any fully electronic transmissions, so unless it's jerking from 4-3 then your problem is most likely mechanical. You need to see what shift control mechanisms you have on that truck, probably some type of throttle rod and/or a vaccum modulator. Failure or misadjustment of these compontents can cause odd shift patterns. If it's an internal problem, like accumulator valve seals hardening and sticking, then the solution could be as simple as a fluid and filter change. I've had really good luck with Bar's Leaks transmission seal conditioner, a translucent red liquid available at parts stores. It's done a good job smooting out some old Ford transmissions that I've owned, added in with a fresh fluid change. Good luck.
shifting upward it may not be the tranny,it maybe
something else which is jerking,the truck has done that since i bought it in may of 02,i have to do some work on the truck,which i did like
change transfer case seal,gaskets fluid etc.
I have to check the mounts to see what condition
they are in,I like this truck and need to keep it working.
pieces.
:--)
See your local auto parts jobber and they can help you.
Good luck,
Dusty
In all honesty I didn't know that the 4x4s required the whole arm.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Found they have a 4 page tech bulletin fix. Fords first fix is to put on 2 new tires out of 4.Problem is that evidently General Tire hasn't got enough to replace them. Having been waiting for 2 weeks for tires. Seem it would make good since to replace all 4 with a diff brand if this is the problem. No one wants to talk about it much.I've been running Toyotas since 85.Ford sure knows how to suck the life out of buying a new truck. Thanks for listening.
6 new tires, 2 new wheels, and a dozen visits later and the Ford still shakes. Ford field reps made attempt at saying it was normal truck ride, but dealer stepped up to the plate; I bought 30,000 dollar Lariat to be my highway vehicle, not a rattler. It seemed like a balance/wheel problem, but I swear it is motor or tranny.
When Ford's vehicle buy back folks made my deal, it was at zero miles. I am still not thrilled, because I am the oddball buyer that likes 2003 looks better, and Heritage doesn't come in Lariat interior, but if new 2004 Lariat is half the truck they claim it is, I guess I should be happy. They initially wanted me to pay for difference in MSRP, but again dealer negotiated a better deal.
danF150
Whenever I lower the steering wheel tilt a few notches below the highest setting, my left turn signal blinks and clicks rapidly on the dash, but is does not work at all outside!
Has anyone had this problem; what did you do?
thx
There's one big trick to help keep moving - you need extra weight in the bed to allow the rear wheels to dig into the snow and get grip. I usually buy six or eight bags of "tube sand" from Home Depot, or Lowes . They are 3 foot long tube-shaped bags about 8" in diameter; they weigh about 60 lbs each, and fit nicely in the unused spaces around the wheel wells (if it's a fleetside \pickup). I built a frame outta 2x6 lumber that helps to hold the bags against the bed rails, otherwise they tend to slide around in back. You can use other stuff to add weight, but I prefer sand as you've always got a ready supply of traction material in the event you do get stuck.
Just remember that the truck's much heavier than any cars you've driven - you've got to allow yourself longer stopping distances (even with ABS) and don't try to take turns too quickly because even with weight in the back, the rear end can still break loose relatively easily if you push it too hard. All this becomes second nature once you driven around for a while in winter.
One other note - if you get an ice storm... stay home! Pickups really suck on glare ice. I rode my F350 Crew Cab 4x4 sideways down a hill last week for a few hundred yards. I was stopped at the crest and truck just started sliding all by itself before I even took my foot off the brake. Had no steering whatsoever, and the rear end decided to try to pass the front. Luckily I didn't hit anything, but had to change my shorts when I finally got home.