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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    A loud hissing noise. The original pump was completely silent until it began to make this noise on turns. The second pump did the same thing, was totally quiet then just started to make noise on turns. The third pump is intermittent in nature, but has a steady hissing noise that is very subdued until the steering wheel is turned.

  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    I thought that is what you might say. I have a 1999 Ford Expedition that has had this exact same noise. Not loud, but you can hear it when you turn the wheel. I think that this is just a characteristic of some Ford power steering pumps. My son's 1996 Ford T-Bird also makes this power steering noise. So far however, both vehicles have not had power steering pump failures. My Expedition is at 80,000 miles and my son's car is at 117,000 miles. I just learn to live with it, and if you can, you may want to aswell. That is unless the noise is excessive.
    Best wishes,
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Having owned a few ford products over the years with Power Steering, I have successfully ignored the hiss until it became a serious growl. I only had a couple of them enough years to get to the growl. It wasn't a Cougar like growl either...
     Tires with more traction tend to make the pump work harder to overcome the friction when turning the wheels without moving.
  • utopiautopia Posts: 24
    Has anyone had a problem with water collecting somewhere within the truck from the hood area & causing a moisture/mildew problem inside the cab of the truck? If so, have there been any recalls or TSB's issued that you know of? Friend is having real problems with this issue in their F-150. Thanks....
  • tgoldtgold Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F - 150 Supercab 4.2L V6. It has a manual transmission. I bought it used at 16,000 miles. It ran great until I noticed what I can best describe as a "soft clutch" at about 28,000 miles. The clutch pedal seems to lose pressure and does not actually engage until it is about 2 to 3 inches from the floor of the truck. I can pump the clutch pedal 4 to 5 times while it is in neutral and this re pressurizes the clutch pedal. This helps the clutch to engage right after applying pressure to the pedal, but soon after it loses pressure again. I took it to Ford and they had it back to me in 5 hours saying that is had a faulty clutch. They said to have replaced the pressure plate and that disc. After 8,000 miles the "soft clutch" returned. I again took it to Ford and they again replaced the pressure plate and disc. They began to question if I raced the truck or towed very heavy loads. I replied no to both questions. At about 38,000 miles, only 2,000 miles after the last repair, the soft "soft clutch" is back and now worse that ever. I had a difficult time putting it into any gear at two lights. I took is back to Ford and they seem as though they are lost as to what could be causing this problem. Oh, I forgot to mention that shifting into 3rd gear the transmission grinds a bit at times. Ford said to have fixed this twice as well. Anyone have a problem similar to this?
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    i had a similiar problem with my 87 f150 several years back.i had a problem with the slave cylinder.i am not sure if the new trucks still use a hydraulic system like they did in the past.the system has a "master cylinder"which connects to the clutch pedal.the slave clyinder is at the other end in the bell housing.i would suspect a problem with the slave cylinder,master cylinder,improper fluid level or air in the clutch's hydraulic system.many technicians often overlook the system.fix the clutch problem and i would bet the grinding of the gears will be solved.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I agree with vidtech. The fact that you can restore original function by pumping the pedal indicates that. The gear grinding too. Changing the clutch is just silly. Take it to another dealer and hope for a more efficient service dept.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I agree, either master cylinder or slave cylinder. I have a Superduty, but I think the system works the same. Mine has both a master and slave cylinder. I don't think it's a wide spread problem, but I have talked to a few Superduty owners that have experienced a very similar problem with their fairly new, low mileage trucks. I think vidtech and mac24 are right on it. Find a new dealer with a better shop, have them replace either the master or slave cylinder, or both to be sure, and your problem will go away.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    It is sad that the first dealer you took it to didn't fix it right while it was under factory warranty. I wonder if the new dealer (or Ford regional rep) can cut you a break since this is a re-occuring problem that started while under factory warranty..
    Of course if your still under a warranty, this is all a moot point.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My daughter's new (to her) 2001 4x4 Supercrew with a 5.4 engine, 31,000 miles, did something strange the other day.

    At a cold (56 F) first-in-the-morning start she immediately placed the transmission in neutral. When she release the hand brake she noticed that the vehicle was moving slightly as if it was in gear. When she stepped on the accerator pedal, the truck lurched forward slightly, then there was a dull thud and the engine raced freely.

    There have been numerous attempts to repeat this symptom, but to no avail. The ATF seems okay, but it's deinitely not fresh. I suggested that the transmissuion fluid be flushed and replenished, change the filter, and if applicable, make any band adjustments.

    Any ideas beyond gummy fluid?

  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    Is your friend's truck air conditioned and do you live in a humid area? If so, the first thing I would check is the drain for the evaporator. That will close up on occasion, causing water to be held inside the cab in the pan under the evaporator and even run over into the cab once full. After driving the truck a while with the AC running park it and see if any water appears under the truck cab. If so it is probably all right, but if not look for a small hose that extends from the firewall a little into the engine compartment or under the truck, then run a flexible wire gently and carefully up into it and see if you can get water flow. If so, that may fix your problem.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I concur with the earlier posters about the hydraulic clutch system being the culprit in your case since you can "pump it up." However, if the warranty is out on your truck or these parts aren't covered under it I would consider changing them myself. I just changed both the master and slave cylinders on a Toyota truck I own, and it wasn't that much of a job. I changed both while I was into it, as they were the same age and I use it on the farm, for considerably less cost and aggravation than I could have had it done by the Toyota place.

    I don't know how many bolts or how difficult these things are to reach on Fords, but the master cylinder is on the firewall and the slave on the transmission. One or both are probably under, behind, or jammed up against something to make working on them awkward, however. Both the master and slave in my Toyota are held on by only two bolts and the master was a breeze. The slave was partially hidden behind the frame and a crossmember, which made it hard to get an open end wrench to and once you did required short movements. It took a while to disconnect and reconnect it, and, of course, you will need a second party to help bleed the air out of the system once it is in place.
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    i know in the late 80's ford starting putting the slave cylinder in the bell housing.that made it a rather difficult job.i am not sure if they still do this.
  • sboggssboggs Posts: 1
    I finally made it to the point I could purchase a brand new F350... Now that I have it, it seems to have an option that Ford doesn't want to deal with, it thumps when I first start it in the morning. I have read other discussions on this as well, just wondering if there is a TSB on this problem. This really sounds like a vent closing or opening.

    Another issue: When I turn left from a stand still, my steering makes a whining sound. The truck is only a couple months old and has 5000 miles. It seems to be getting better (less whining) as I drive it. Anything to be worried about? I want to make sure all issues are resolved prior to 3/36k.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There's a well known 'thump' at startup linked to the a/c system. You should easily bring it up on a search if no one comes up with a a TSB.

    The fact that you only get the steering pump noise in one direction indicates it's a problem that needs to be fixed, i.e. it's not just that the pump is a little noisy at all times.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    As mac stated, the thump is well known amongst Superduty owners. The power steering noise could be a problem, but I wouldn't worry too much about it right now. I have an F-350, but mine is a diesel, so I have more weight on the front axle. Also, the power steering pump on the diesel supplies hydraulic pressure for the brake booster. I don't know for sure, but I would imagine your brake booster uses vacuum. Anyway, my pump makes a little more noise when turning to the right. Mine has 127k on it now. (Knock on wood!)
  • don770don770 Posts: 12
    Hi All,, I have a 2002 F250SD with the V10. I just noticed that after sitting overnight, it
    puffs out some blue smoke right after starting up. It only has 5600 miles on it. Anyone else seen this??
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    give it a little more time.could be the engine needs just a little more driving before it is fully broken is normal to use some oil during break in.
  • don770don770 Posts: 12
    It has 5600 miles on it, and it is just starting
    to smoke now. Has not done it up to this point.
  • jmoreland1jmoreland1 Posts: 2
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It may be within Ford's acceptable limits, but it's certainly not normal. Check with Ford, not the dealer, to see what those limits are.

    P.S. Re: ALL CAPS......... please don't shout!
  • jmoreland1jmoreland1 Posts: 2
    Iapologize for the caps did'nt mean to shout. thank you for you message. I assume there is a 1800 number listed in my book?

    thank you again
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't know the answer to that one, but I'm sure there's others here that do. I'd start by checking my Owners Handbook and if unsuccessful I'd then do a search on the net.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Did you just get the truck? Or has the oil consumption been this way since new? Or have you noticed consumption getting worse over time? Also curious, which engine (6 or 8) and what size? (not that I know of any oil consumption differences between them.) How many miles on it? Do you see blue smoke or are any of the spark plugs getting fouled?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
      I've got an '01 V10 with 18K miles on it. The first year I'd notice an ocaissional blue puff on start up, but that was only if truck sat for more than a week (not my daily driver). I figured a little of the really "thin" 5W20 oil had seeped past the rings while it sat. It was only a momentary puff, then no more. I can't honestly say I've seen any in the last 18 months however. I'll be away on business for a week, I'll try to remember to look for it when I get back. As other poster said, you might have to wait for engine to break in a little longer. I recall that when I got to around 8000 miles, my mileage went up by about 1 mpg and truck just seemed to run a tiny bit smoother. Hopefully this is just a transient problem
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    Has anyone out there had one of the new Powerstroke diesels long enough and driven it enough to give an opinion on it? I am interested in whether some develop the "cackle" some of the old ones did, and if you have to put an additive in the coolant to prevent the cylinder walls from pitting. I am also interested in the mileage with the six speed manual transmission.

    Ever since finding out the Powerstroke needed a coolant additive I have been reluctant to buy a used one.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Check out the Diesel-Stop 6.0 Powerstroke forum. - - - Board=2003Drivetrain

    It's like drinking from a fire hose over there.

      I don't have a diesel, our resident expert is Jim Mullins - he can add a lot more than I, but I can still answer some of your questions from hanging with buddy who has a ''99.5 Powerstroke. The coolant additive is called RMI-25 - it prevents cavitation; where bubbles form in the water jacket next to the cyclinder walls. When the bubble bursts (implodes?), it causes the "pitting," - it's kinda like a mini depth-charge going off in the coolant. If allowed to go unchecked for a long time, it can cause problems. I think additive only needs to be added once a year, and at coolant changes. If you're looking for a used Powerstroke, you could invest a few bucks in coolant additive test strips (, forget what they're called off the top of my head). If you find a truck you like, test the coolant, if the additive is detected in adequate quantities then I wouldn't worry too much about the motor.

       As far as cackle, I believe that's a feature of the old Powerstroke (a problem with injector #6) only. It's pretty obvious if a motor has it. New 6.0 motor has had some early production issues, but from reading posts it seems that the birthing pains have been smoothed out after the first year. One of the biggest issues is the "drone" - some sort of vibration noise from the engine. Another is described as "the romp-romp", some sort of computer/ tuning/fuel issues. Read up at the diesel-stop.
    Personally, I love the V10 gasser - (even though I have a light exhasut flutter at 2000 rpm.)
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I doubt that I could qualify as an expert, maybe hardcore enthusiast. Other than keeping up with the typical regular maintenance, the coolant additive probably is the biggest item overlooked. Most every DIY'er knows about the engine oil, tranny fluid, coolant, brake and clutch fluids, differentials, and various grease fittings. However, few have ever read the service manual or been told about the coolant additives. My manual calls for 1 pint of Ford's FW-16 to be added every 15k miles, I'm not familiar with Walt's RMI-25. I use the coolant test strips that Walt mentioned at every oil change to make sure the additives stay within the proper range. It's really no big deal, just adds three to four minutes to each oil change.

    The cavitation is caused by tiny air bubbles forming on the cylinder walls, on the coolant side obviously. A diesel engine has soooo much compression that the cylinder walls will actually expand outwards as the piston is on its compression cycle. Once the fuel charge ignites and the piston is forced back down and into the exhaust cycle, the cylinder actually contracts somewhat. This contraction momentarily produces a low pressure area immediately around the cylinder wall, causing the air bubbles to form. As the piston then moves from its intake to compression cycle, the cylinder wall begins to expand again causing a high pressure area immediately around the cylinder wall. This high pressure is great enough to cause those tiny air bubbles to collapse on themselves resulting in a fairly violent and destructive implosion. The coolant additive not only prevents cavitation from happening, it also aids in tranferring heat from the various engine parts to the coolant, thereby making the coolant more efficient.

    I don't know what your budget is, but I'd go for an '01 or '02 7.3L. But that's just my opinion.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. I would assume the engine coolant additive comes in a new one from the factory, and if it is recommended that a pint be added every 15,000 miles it must be "used up" in some manner. That would mean a truck with low mileage--something just over 15,000 miles, won't be too badly damaged if adding it wasn't done. I would assume also if the original owner took it to a dealer for oil and fuel filter changes during warranty that would be a part of the servicing. Are there any figures on how many miles an engine can be run without it wihout damaging the engine?

    The coolant factor concerns me with a used one, although your suggestion of getting the test strips to check it is a good one. Then there's the low or zero percent interest rates for new trucks, higher interest rates for used ones, and the high prices of used trucks, which would all have to be taken into consideration.

    I want one with a manual transmission, which isn't nearly as easy to find as one with the automatic, and I really don't need anything fancy for the farm. An XL with vinyl seats and no carpet on the floor would do just nicely, and most folks go with the XLT or Laramie, which is a prettier and fancier truck for every day use. I need a mudder, something I can hose out when I get mud or cow manure in it.

    Thanks for the input.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I've heard of some dealerships that don't even know about the additive. So regular dealership servicing won't guarantee proper coolant additive maintenance. As far as how far one will go without the additive, I honestly have no idea. I do know of guys that keep their trucks two to three years, with upwards of 100k on them, trade them in just before the warranty expires and have no idea what the coolant additive is. Any real diesel mechanic can give you examples of failed engines due to cavitation, so it is a real concern.

    You seem to want a similar truck to what I originally wanted. A good used XL will be tough to find. Most people that buy those will work the snot out of them to the point where they are on their last leg, I found that out when looking for my truck. I got very lucky in that I found a 6-speed XLT without any of the fancy extras. You may have to order a new one to get the truck you want.
This discussion has been closed.