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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    I swapped out my Y2K SD CC for an 02 SCrew, basically got the same payment plus a 0 deductable
    premium care ESP from ford. I traded mine with 27000 mi. If I would of kept mine, I would of bought the ESP from ford. But the interest rates were down, I didn't loose out on my trade, so I did it. I now have a better Ford Dealer then before.

    (p.s. don't know if this is good or bad, but at times I work with your brother John.)
  • tom18tom18 Posts: 89
    small world - does anyone recommend any extended warranty programs outside of that offerred by the dealer - do dealers vary on which companies they use - what is a reasonable deductible to be expected ?
  • But F150 topped the list as the BEST vehicle by the Center for Auto Safety, for fewest complaints to the government by Americans having problems with their vehicles.

    Top 25 Best and Worst Vehicles
    The Center for Auto Safety analyzed complaints made to the government by Americans having problems with their vehicles. Below are the models that received the fewest complaints, and those that received the most. Models introduced in 2000 and 2001 are not represented due to a lack of data.
    Best (Fewest complaints) Worst (Most complaints)
    1. Ford F-Series 1. Mazda MPV
    2. BMW 3 Series 2. Kia Sportage
    3. BMW 5 Series 3. Ford Excursion
    4. Volkswagen Golf 4. Ford Windstar
    5. Mazda Truck 5. Mercury Cougar
    6. Volvo C70 6. Volvo S40
    7. Volkswagen Beetle 7. Honda Passport
    8. Nissan Sentra 8. Honda S2000
    9. Infiniti G20 9. Mitsubishi Eclipse
    10. Acura RL 10. Isuzu Rodeo
    11. Saab 9-5 11. Ford Explorer
    12. Chevrolet Prizm 12. Land Rover Range Rover
    13. Toyota Corolla 13. Audi A6
    14. Infiniti QX4 14. Hyundai Tiburon
    15. Nissan Altima 15. Honda Odyssey
    16. Lexus RX300 16. Lincoln LS
    17. Nissan Maxima 17. Jeep Grand Cherokee
    18. Acura TL 18. Volkswagen Passat
    19. Saab 9-3 19. Buick LeSabre
    20. Pontiac Bonneville 20. Suzuki Grand Vitara
    21. Mazda Millenia 21. Chevrolet Blazer
    22. Mazda 626 22. Chevrolet Impala
    23. Lincoln Town Car 23. Toyota Tundra
    24. Ford Focus 24. Dodge Dakota
    25. Honda Accord 25. Dodge Neon
  • Tom18,

    There are many companies that offer extended warranties. This one offers a 10 year plan.

    I haven't purchased one yet but 1Source looks prety good.

    This site has a list of extended warranty providers, and also rates them.

    Hope this helps.

  • I have a '99 F-150 sw 4.2. Shortly after the end of the warranty (around 37,000) I noticed gear oil on the pinion flange of the rear axle. Upon investigation, I found that it was not coming from the pinion seal, but leaking through the splines of the pinion shaft, coming out around the nut and lock washer. Ford says I drive it too hard, and the 4.2 does in fact have sufficient torque to destroy the splines inside the pinion yoke, and I should replace it at a cost of around $100, carry out.

    Anyone else heard of this??
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Ford motor company didn't tell you that.. Sounds like something that local dealer service writer (who is not a mechanic) is saying..

    There are several, more likely, causes for the leakage..

    Here's some text from the Ford Technical Service manual on the Rear axle/diff section.

    Analysis of Leakage

    Clean up the leaking area enough to identify the exact source.

    A plugged axle housing vent can cause excessive pinion seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup.

    Make sure axle lubricant level is 9.525 mm (3/8 inch) below the bottom of the fill hole.

    Axle Vent

    If a plugged vent cannot be cleared, install a new one.

    A plugged vent will cause excessive seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup. If a leak occurs, check the vent. Make sure the vent hose is not kinked. Remove the hose from the vent nipple and clear the hose of any foreign material. While the hose is removed, pass a length of mechanics wire or a small diameter Allen wrench in and out of the vent to clean it. Connect the hose when done.

    Flange Yoke Seal

    Leaks at the axle drive pinion seal originate for the following reasons:

    l Seal was not correctly installed.

    l Poor quality seal journal surface.

    Any damage to the seal bore (dings, dents, gouges, or other imperfections) will distort the seal casing and allow leakage past the outer edge of the axle drive pinion seal.

    The axle drive pinion seal can be torn, cut, or gouged if it is not installed carefully. The spring that holds the axle drive pinion seal against the pinion flange can be knocked out and allow leakage past the lip.

    The rubber lips can occasionally become hard (like plastic) with cracks at the oil lip contact point. The contact point on the pinion flange may blacken, indicating excessive heat. Marks, nicks, gouges, or rough surface texture on the seal journal of the pinion flange will also cause leaks.

    Metal chips or sand trapped at the sealing lip can also cause oil leaks. This can cause a wear groove on the pinion flange and heavy pinion seal wear.

    When a seal leak occurs, install a new seal and check the vent and the vent hose to make sure they are clean and free of foreign material.
  • The guy on the phone claims to be the axle/tranny expert of the shop. My own investigation shows the seal around the pinion yoke is NOT leaking. Upon removing the drive shaft, I found gear oil trapped inside the flange around the pinion nut, which ran out when I pulled the shaft loose. I called a tech at another dealer, who just wants me to bring it in for them to look at for $70/hr. This is the main part I can't handle... If I had money to blow, this would have been the excuse to just rip the whole thing out and put limited slip and a different ratio in. But things just won't allow this.
  • sorry but NO mechanic can fix your car over the phone. All my mechanic will do on the phone is set up an appointment.
  • tom18tom18 Posts: 89

    Thanks for info on warranties - still not sure if spending money for this is wise
  • fordtuffordtuf Posts: 101
    I bought the 99 SD250 the 1st year model, I told myself...."self, you have never had trouble with Ford before, so why worry this time." Well my truck has been at the dealer over a dozen times in the last 18-20 mos. It still isn't close to being right. Front end, rear end, transfer case, and bad vibrations above 75mph.

    They replaced every front end component there is, some of them 2 and 3 times. Still clunks and pops, still squeaks.

    Rear end / transfer case:
    After the dealer "Fixed" it for the original clicking, it developed a vibration. No they didn't fix the clicking either. After two more trips and a month of waiting they fixed the clicking. Still has the vibration. After several months trying to fix the vibration they now say they will not drive it 75 mph to get it to the point that it makes the vibration. This is after they had already drove it that fast at least 3 times! Bottom line, they screwed it up and can't fix it.

    Now the rear axle and/or springs are screwed up. There is a very bad shuttering upon acceleration and it is terrible pulling a load. There is also a severe axle wrap going on, its like they are made of lasagna noodles. I will not even pull my boat right now, let alone my travel trailer.

    Now the only good part of this story.
    After 2 years of complaining at the service people and service manager, and after writing to Ford customer no-service, I finally got to talk to the owner of the dealership. To my amazement he new quite a bit about my situation. What ticked me off was they were not doing anything on there own to make the "customer job one", or putting "Quality First". I had to keep on complaining.

    Finally, they got Ford to contribute $5000 toward me getting a new truck. The dealer is selling the truck to me at $500 over invoice, they say it is only about $200 over invoice, .... RIIIIGHT!

    It is true, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Well not always. I'm still very agitated to say the least. The owner has said that Ford has done this for several people because of problems they have had with the early Super Duties. ???

    The 02 F250 XLT, White over Silver, 4x4, V10, SC, 3.73 is due in about 6 weeks.
  • hutch7hutch7 Posts: 88
    I had a similar experience with my F-150...I have banished the Blue Oval from my garage permanently!
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    Could you please provide me a link to that list that you posted from the Center For Auto Safety. I tried to find it on their site, but there was no sign of it.

    Also the list says: "Models introduced in 2000 and 2001 are not represented due to a lack of data," then it lists the Tundra at 23 being the Truck with the most complaints. Wasn't the tundra introduced in 2000 and 2001? Should it not be represented?

  • How hard to replace the MLP sensor on my 1994 F350 Crew Cab with 351 and E4OD tranny. Does it go on top, or underneath the tranny. Thanks, Lance.
  • You have to go to the AP archives for 1/29/02 to retrieve the article. And you have to pay a fee. The article below contained links.

    Consumer advocate publishes annual safety rating of cars
    Relevancy: 95 Byline: JONATHAN D. SALANT; Associated Press Writer Category: Financial Pub. date: 01-29-2002 Word Count: 3K
    WASHINGTON (AP) Looking to buy a new car this year? The Saturn L scores best among family sized cars in eight categories, including safety features and crash tests, according to a veteran consumer advocate. The Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest are
  • Anyone getting a lot of White Smoke when starting engine for about 10 seconds, anytime after setting overnight. The Smoke smells like burning oil. Engine runs fine during warm up. I have 11,400 miles on the Truck.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,770
    ...but white smoke usually indicates water in the cylinders. I had a truck that started to have the same thing (white smoke starting up after sitting overnight) and what it turned out to be was a head gasket failure. Water was seeping into a cylinder through the failed gasket, and starting the engine was creating the steam/water vapor (white smoke) There may be oil involved, but if it was primarily oil, I would expect to see blue or black exhaust. But back to the water... what finally happened was that I went out one morning and tried to start the truck and the engine hit a dead end with a bang and would not even turn over. The gasket had completely failed and the one cylinder had filled with water. Since water doesn't compress, the cylinder may as well have been filled with concrete. At the time, I didn't know what it was and had to have the truck towed to the garage. When the mechanic removed the spark plug and turned the engine over, the water was forced out, verifying that the head gasket was toast. Told me I could have done the same to drive the truck in.

    I'm NOT a master mechanic, but you're describing exactly what happened to me. Might be a good idea to have it looked at.

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  • h1vch1vc Posts: 295
    My supercrew ran outa gas, someone game me a tank of fuel, said it was gas, but was diesel. I put it in, definitely put in less than 2.5 galon, probably around 1.5gal. Should I let ford fix it or can I put in high grade gas and start it, people told me i could do that. If putting in gas is ok, how much damage will that make to any components? I know it was dumb. Thanks
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    You might get a little smoke.. But that little bit of diesel wont hurt anything..

    Fill up with regular, and keep the fuel topped off for a few days..

    Doing the opposite can be disasterous.. putting gasoline in a diesel engine. That takes more work to correct..
  • h1vch1vc Posts: 295
    Are you sure it won't hurt anything, ANYTHING? even a little? And just regular, not necessary to use highest octane? What would happen if gas in diesel? Thanks.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    fuel tank: no harm
    fuel pump: wont hurt anything, wont clog and diesel lubricates just fine.
    fuel lines: no harm
    fuel filter: It wont clog it.
    injectors: the diluted diesel wont have any problem getting through injectors
    spark plugs/ignition: if the diesel concentration is too high, the plugs could foul, and the only result is the car would run rough. In your case you might get a little smoke from the exhaust.
    cat. converter: If you were to do this for a very long time, then you could reduce the life of the cat.

    There are alot of vehicles out there that when the piston rings or lifter seals go bad, cause the engine to 'burn oil'. Some vehicles burn a little oil. Burning a little diesel is no worse than that..

    Also, the high octane will make NO difference.
  • h1vch1vc Posts: 295
  • brad71brad71 Posts: 2
    hey guys i have a 97 ford f150 4x4 witha 4.6 v8 in it and i'm only getting about 12 to 13 mpg. does this sound right? I was expecting at least 14 to 15. Is there anything that can be done to improve this? I have 65000 mls on it. Any input would be appreciated. thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    My father has a '98 F-150 SC SB 4x2 also with the 4.6L. He is getting around 18-19mpg. His truck has approximately 30k on it. I know your 4WD option will hurt your mileage as well as any spirited and/or high speed driving, but the 4WD shouldn't hurt you that much. I would think only 2-3mpg would be normal. IMO, you should get 15-16mpg.

    I don't know how you maintain the truck, but I would start with a clean air filter, then new plugs and wires. Fluid changes could help also, especially if you also change the thermostat. A bad thermostat could cause the engine to run too cold for the computer to allow the torque convertor to lock up. Check the brakes to make sure none are dragging. Did the mileage start going down recently, or has it always been this way? It could be that you just happen to have a thirsty engine.
  • benr0benr0 Posts: 22
    Are you hubs locked in 4x4?
  • slp77slp77 Posts: 12
    this isn't really a problem but edmunds has really cut back on their discussion groups, so
    i thought i'd try here.

    while applying stainguard to my 2002 truck i found a small piece of blue plastic under the
    front seat. its a small rectangular shape with a ring on one end and a circuit board type
    connector on the other. it says VTP on it. under the dash is what looks like the female
    plug in for this. its black and also says VTP. what does this do? does it have something
    to do with the tow package? should i leave this plugged in?

    thanks for any advice you have

  • brad71brad71 Posts: 2
    hey mullins thanks for your tips. I actually have checked it a few more times since then and i'm getting around 14. I would still like to be in that 16 range but at least this is better. Also i live in upstate Ny and it has been cold. I've been told that i can probably expect another 1-2 mls in the summer so i'll see what happens. thanks again for your input.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    SLP77, somebody here can probably help you out, but you've gotta be a little more forthcoming than a 2002 F-Series with a tow package.

    What model truck do you have? F150 thru F750? What trim level: XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch? What kind of cab: regular, extended, crew? What body style? Short bed: step side, style side, s-crew? Long Bed? Chassis Cab?

    Any other options would be helpful as well.
  • amos250amos250 Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, I am new to the "community" and I have a few issues with my '97 F-250 LD 4X4 SC.
    I am happy with the truck overall, but there are a few things I am not too pleased with. First on my list is the upper & lower ball joints. My 250 LD has 90k on the clock, and it has had 4 sets of upper & lower ball joints. Has any one had similar problems?
    Second issue, which just developed today, I came to a stop sign and just as I was stopped, (auto tranny) my engine almost stalled, the tach read below 500 RPM and then it jumped to 1000 then below 500 then to 1000 and finally settled at about 700RPM. It did the same thing at every stop I made until I got home. Any ideas? I am thinking a shift solenoid is starting to act up, but am not familiar with the new electronic vehicles.
    Any help on these issues would be great. Thanks.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    If it only does it with the tranny in gear, the lock-up solenoid is where I would start.
  • Yo troops...need some advice. I am a travelling salesman that drives about 50k per year mainly hi-way. anyway I found a minty 97 f-150 xl extra cab with the 4.2, auto,a/c/t/ with 30k miles on it. How reliable are these trucks & what kind of gas mileage can I expect at 70 mph on the freeway? thanks!
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