The horn buttons on my '94 f150 will not make the horn work. The horn is fine (panic button on keyless entry makes it work). Also noticed the airbag light blinking. Both horn and airbag wiring comes into steering wheel in a rotating connection. Suspect that connection has a problem. Has anyone experienced the same thing? How hard is it to replace that connection?
I haven't had problem myself. Though do have '95 F150. Rotating mechanism for electrical connections in steering column is referred to as the clock spring. From what I remember you've got to pull steering wheel, get inside column and replace this gizmo. Unfortunately, I've heard stated that you need three hands in order to do the job. Hopefully somebody else who's had experience with this can add something more useful than me. Good luck.
Do you also have cruise with the steering wheel mounted controls? If so, I'd bet that isn't working either. I had a clock spring replaced on mine a year ago. The dealership did it for $75.
Thanks to both for the clockspring info. I have cruise, but not sure if working. Will check that, but from the looks of things, the clock spring is the culprit. Dealer wants about 5x the price you paid(or $380)down here!! Seems a bit steep for what's involved. Dealer wants $91 just for this plastic part!! A local shop will do the job for $200, which is what I plan to do - have to have a horn! Horns used to work way past when everything else was worn out. Have we over-engineered this thing?
Maybe there is a design difference in our trucks. It only took about 30 minutes to fix. I've heard things are higher in CA, but that sounds ridiculous. Seems like I paid about $50 for the part.
Like I said, there may be a difference in our trucks, but if you want me to, e-mail me and I'll send you my local dealers phone number. Then you can call and see if your dealer is trying to rip you off.
I am having a serious problem with my 98 Ford F150. It has only 60,000 miles on it and my mechanic is telling me that it has a cracked block and needs a new or rebuilt engine. This happened eight months ago and I called Ford about it they said there was nothing that they could or would do about it since it was out of the 3 year/ 36,000 mile warranty. Since then, I have been looking for a good price on engines for it on the internet and talking to friends and family about it. In my searching I have heard from several people that this is a common problem. I would like to know if in fact this is a common problem and if so what do I need to do to get my truck fixed. I understand that this engine was used in 1997-2000 F150's, so if anyone has a similar problem or knows anyone with this problem please email me @ scotts0026@hotmail.com. I think if enough of us get together we can make Ford do something about it. Thank you very much,Scott
It is my understanding that most auto manufacturers have an unspoken 100K mi limited powertrain warranty. If you raise enough of a stink, Ford will pay for the parts, but you still have to pay for the labor. The transmission on my mothers Chrysler went out at 60k and Chrysler payed for a new one, but she still had to pay over a $1000 dollars for labor.
This is the first time I've heard of anything like that. It does not sound common at all.
Ford has no 'legal' obligation to help you in any way.. HOWEVER, I have heard of cases similar to what johncos mentions.
=======If this happend to me========== I would have approached the dealership service manager, and remained polite and professional, and asked if there is any way that they can work with the Ford regional rep to help me out. I'm not asking for a freebie, but can they (FoMoCo) pay 1/2 the cost, or I pay labor and they (FoMoCo) pay parts etc.. Also call the Ford 1-800 customer service number and make a similar request. I've owned many Fords in the past, and plan to own Fords in the future. I am disappointed with this recent experience, and it doesn't seem like a typical problem, but was just a weird failure. (Heck, some Fords don't even recommend their first major service until after 100k miles). =======================
The best way to have FoMoCo or the dealership to completely ignore you or stonewall is to say 'I'll never buy another Ford'. When someone says this, it is clear that no matter what they do, they've lost a customer, so why help them..
In my experience, if you give a company a reasonable chance to show their commitment to customers, they will help as any business as successful as Ford knows the value of repeat customers.
This doesn't mean be a 'whimp', but it is possible to be firm.. This doesn't always work but I think I double my chances of getting a favorable outcome because I get 2 tries, Try 1: be a nice guy, (but firm) Try 2: then use the law (not so nice guy).
Whereas if you use (not so nice guy) first, there's no going back.
Hi. yes there is a problem with bad oil pans in years 92 through 96, mostly in the gray color. I have a 93 with 70,000 miles that rusted out last year. I have patch it a couple times, but it just keeps rusting around the patches. I went to my local dealer for a pan and gaskets, they told me they always keep a few on hand because they replace so many. The good news is that its fairly inexpensive around $100. The installation isn't that bad you have to drop the oil sump on the pump to get the pan off. I hope this helps you.
I burn most of my CDs and I have found that the CD player will not play some of them. I have the remote 6 pack CD option. Has anyone else experienced this problem and has a solution been found?
My 2001 F250 CD/Cassette player won't play CD-R's either. I think that who ever makes the radio's for Ford, missed something. My '97 Grand Prix CD changer plays them. It's all in the design of these things. I even used the "Music CD-R's".
I could sure use some mechanical help... I have a 5-speed manual on my 2001 F150 (6-cylinder). I often slip it into neutral when stopped in traffic or at a light so I can give my left leg a break. Sometimes, it REFUSES to go back into gear. It's downright dangerous 'cause I'm left sitting there when everyone else is taking off from the light! Usually, I can get it into gear by finding one of the five that will work. This seems to then "free up" first gear (fourth gear usually works best although it can also be difficult sometimes).
Even though I've had clutch problems in the past (the clutch master cylinder went out at about 4K miles), it doesn't seem to be a clutch problem causing this. The clutch is fully engaging and disengaging during normal use in about the middle of the clutch pedal stroke.
Any ideas? I haven't yet brought it in to the dealer. I'd like to have some clues about what might be causing this so that I can make a semi-informed argument about it being a warranty issue (only 13K miles on the truck). I'd sure appreciate some help on this one.
I have 2002 F250, I play my own CD's in it. While I was burning them a guy at work asked me if I had the factory Ford player, I said yes. He said you can not use the MP3 format (I think). He said that is the one you can cram a lot more music onto the disc with. You have to use the other, slower (???) format. Sorry I can't remember what he called it. Anyway he said most Ford players are like that.
Tranny stuff: What I know/knew is that manual trannies have a synchronizer that is supposed to align the gears when you depress the clutch. The clutch, when not pressed in, still allows the shaft to turn inside your tranny. So when you go to put it back into gear, the gears are not lined up properly if the synchronizer is not right.
Another possibility could be the pressure plate. When you depress your clutch you are causing a yoke and "through-out bearing" to push against the pressure plate, and therefore releasing the pressure that holds the clutch engaged to your flywheel. You said you had work done on your truck, it is quite possible that the parts changer( I mean mechanic) did not get the clutch adjusted properly. It may be possible that there is air in the clutch system not releasing the pressure plate all the way.
Not to get off subject, but MP3 is another type of compression for music files. I can put 20 music CD's on one CD if I use MP3. You have to have a player with the decoder built in for playing MP3's. Some are made just for MP3 and some have that extra decoder built in so it can play all formats of music CD's. The Mustang has an option for a player that plays MP3's. I wouldn't doubt it if another Ford vehicle has the same option. The "slower" format is what the CD's are in when you buy them from the store. It's just a smaller compression. It's all in the coding of the music storage.
I am trying to sell a 2001 F150 supercab, well equiped. My asking price is $2500+ UNDER Edmunds TMV (true market value?), have it posted on two major auto websites, and haven't had a single call in 2-3 weeks. Anybody have a similar experience? any suggestions?
i own a 1991 F-150 351 eng. heater not working. i slid the lever from cool to warm and the flipper door is workng properly. while in the heating mode all i get is the a/c. i removed the elec. conn. from the heater control valve and connected a volt meter from one of the wires to ground and got 12 volts. i went thru cooling mode and all settings from max to defrost and meter stayed on 12 volts. i tried it on the warm mode thru all settings and still received 12 volts. i then placed the meter on ohms and switched the probe to the other wire on the connector and receved continuity thru all the above settings and there was no break in continuity. How is this heater control valve suppose to work if it is always receiving 12 volts thru all of the above settings. i checked the wiring diagram in the Haynes Repair Manual but could not find the circuit that controls the valve. i would appreciate it if someone could tell me what controls this valve or how this system is suppose to work. Thanks. John
Tough to sell a 2001 model year truck in late 2002.
Only about 4k difference to start with. Most dealers are selling the new truck for invoice or less, so the difference is even less than 4k.
Then add in the super low financing (0% in some rare cases), and generally financing rates are lower on new vehicles than used.
Only 2 years of warranty left on the 2001, vs 3years of warranty on a new 2002.
All of these factors may cause folks to come to the decision point: -do I take a chance on a used vehicle that I don't know anything about. -or buy a brand new 2002 off the dealer lot with 0 miles on it, and full warranty, lower fianancing etc.
On the average, car dealers are suffering just like you.. It's not a sellers market to begin with.
I have a 00 f-150. The wipers come on for no reason and cycle about 2 times. This happens about once every other day. Are there any recalls on this item?
I burn lots of CD-R's and have not had a problem in my 2000 F-150. I burn them at 4X speed. You may experience some glitches if they are burnt at a faster speed. Good luck
I'd bet it is the multifunction control. I think our trucks have the same one. Mine, when I turn the wipers on, moving the selector to one of the variable positions, they work fine. When I have them on, either on low or high, then switch to one of the variable positions, they cycle way too fast. If I turn them off, then back to a variable position, they work fine again.
I tried to sell my 2001 F250 Diesel. I drove it around it for sale signs in it for two weeks then put it on a consignment lot for 6 weeks. Not one phone call! It's priced higher then Edmunds TMV but according the lot guy, it was $5000+ below retail. It was below the price off of KBB.com. I guess with the 0% going on, it's tough. I just gave up and changed my financial plans and am going to keep it.
I'm looking for a truck to pull a load and one that can be used as a family vehicle when it isn't working. Right now I'm looking at diesels with manual transmission in the one ton category, so I'm considering the F-350, but if I buy something at the cost of a new truck I want something that will last a long time and a lot of miles without engine or drivetrain problems. I would like to hear from owners of F-250's or F-350's using the diesels. Have you had any problems with the engine, clutch, or manual tranny? And how many miles do you have on your vehicle?
My opinion, that is the longest lasting combo you can get.. The PSD engine has a 100K warranty (not the rest of the truck, just the engine including electrical, injectors, fuel pumps etc.)
If maintain properly, the PSD will last a very long time as there are folks with hunderds of thousands of miles on them. (my little brothers PSD has well over 100k). He bought the truck used with around 75k miles on it, and had a problem where it sometimes was hard to start.. The dealership (in AK) replaced all of the injectors free of charge.
As with most larger trucks, the automatic trannys take a beating and its important to watch the tranny temp closely when hauling. But even with this, the trannys do hold up with periodic flush/fluid changes. With the manual tranny, the main factor is how you drive it.. I've not heard of anyone with clutch problems (probably because the of the creeper 1st gear that can get even the largest loads moving without abusing the clutch).
I have an 00 F250 5.4L 5sp 4x2 4.10LS with 49k miles. The only 'problems' were a speed sensor and IAC valve both replace under the 36k warranty.
You're on the right track. I have a '99 F-350 SC LB DRW PSD 6-speed @ 115k miles. So far, no problems.
I don't know if you are familiar with a diesel and its operation, but you can't drive it like a gasser eventhough mine drives more like a gasser than any other diesel I've ever driven. They may be a little inconvenient at times, but they'll serve you well.
I have two diesel farm tractors, so I am familiar with normal longevity the way we use them, and believe me, farm equipment is exposed to some rough working conditions. Needless to say I am sold already on diesel. Both of these tractors are Ford's manufactured in 1971 and 1972, both still in use. I do all my own maintenance, oil changes, fuel filter changes, lubes, and so on to be certain it is done right. Their fuel filters are a little more difficult to change, as the fuel systems have to be purged of air almost every time a change is made, which requires bleeding air out of the injector pump, cracking the injector lines right at the injectors and letting it pump until nothing but fuel is coming out, then retightening them but the benefits are well worth the extra few minutes it takes for that. Once you've done it once it is a simple, though smelly and dirty process.
The reason I am interested in the track record of diesels used in trucks is that I had a Ford E-250 van years ago with one of the first diesels and it holed a piston at 65,000 miles. With a 100,000 mile warranty that would definitely be a major inconvenience, but not a catastrophe. I notice Dodge shows a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty. How many years does Ford offer now?
You mentioned you can't drive a diesel the way you can a gasoline engine, mullins 87. What are you referring to?
I appreciate both of your responses, and would appreciate any from anyone else out there, as well.
I see you are very accustomed to dealing with diesels. What I was referring to is that warm-up time you give your tractors before you take off in the morning. You've seen people do this; fire up their car, the starter hasn't even stopped spinning, and they're hammer-down out of the parking lot. Hard enough on a gasser, but even worse to a diesel. I let mine idle for a little while on cool mornings while I get my son situated. When I do leave, I go slowly and short shift it untill the temps get to at least 150 to 160. I don't know which model Ford tractors you have, so I don't know if they're turbos, but I'll let my truck idle anywhere from a half minute to several minutes, depending on the load on the truck and turbo immediately prior to stopping. I do this to let the turbo cool down so I won't cook the bearings.
I do know Ford offers a 100k mile warranty on the engine. I think it is 5 years, PSD only though.
I don't know how to explain this nicely but for those of you that have the rust problem call the B.B.B.(Better Business Bureau).I went thru hell getting my 1998 f-150 flareside with 21,100 miles on it repaired, don't even bother with the number they supply you with they don't care and do what the dealer tells them. I went to three dealerships and finally found one that agreed it was a Defective process used and repaired one door, and the tailgate , plus replaced the drivers door at no cost to me. If you need more info contact me at dmoody1567@aol.com.
I bought brand new 150 Supercab lariat 4x4 in 1999. Problems I had: new- someone at dealer took floor mats between signing agreement and bringing in money to pick up next day. i recieved a "voucher " for mats. 10,000 miles- 1 side mirror clouded. Dealer replaced it with different style and actually let me drive away like that. I took back for another 2 month wait for same style other side. 35,998 miles- ignition switch quit working. I replaced myself when ford authorized tow never showed. 40,000 ,miles a engine coil wore out (I guess there are 8 of these), cost me $450 at ford dealer. 53,000 miles today- Present condition- driveline shudders when step on gas from dead stop. I took it in for routine pads, brake shop said rotors are rusted ( I drive everyday). Leather seats are cracking. I also own an 01 expedition, also had engine coil go out at 13,000 miles, luckily under warranty. Well, I considered buying another ford but has anyone noticed how low mileage is on fords ? Well I believe in supporting America but I also need to buy a product I percieve to offer good service at a fair price, so I bought a 03 Toyota RAV 4 made in Japan. I am getting 30 MPG. It is perfect. Now I want to replace the Toyota emblems with Ford emblems, maybe go to Toys are us and get some "Excalibur" or "Extraterrestrial" chrome sign to put on back. This would be a real gas. I think people will go nuts and run to there Ford dealer looking for one of these.
My 1999 F-150/4.2 loses about a quart/week. I took a compression test and all cylinders were between 145-150. The middle plug on the right side was wet but the compression was fine. There are no visible leaks(heater core,pump,hoses). It has the syntoms of a blownhead gasket(rough idle on startup). But why does the compression test show good compression? Thanks
I'm assuming since you knew enough to do compression test. You looked at your oil - dip stick wasn't milky/frothy indicating a leak into oil port. I had a Taurus w/ 3.0 six that had crack in head gasket to outside of engine - coolant ran down and dripped onto exhaust manifold only after the engine was hot. I could smell it, but never saw it until engine was running while car was on a lift.
I just picked up an '88 F150 with the 5.0. With the engine running, I am getting 12v (battery voltage) at the battery. Would the altenater just die all at once? I don't know if the previous owner had a problem with it dying slowly or not. The altenater I have has the rectefier and volt regulator as all one unit. Would it be safe to say that replacing the alt would fix my problem?
Shouldn't you get at least 13.5 volts with the engine running? Being an '88, I'd say replacing the alternator wouldn't be a bad preventative move even if it's not dead yet. Of course, you could always have it tested. Most places will do it for free.
Are you having problems with the truck dying, or with a dead battery?
I had an 88 Sable that was not kind to alternators.
After a couple short lived units from Grand Auto, I concluded that paying more for a quality unit from a local auto-electric shop was worth a try. That unit lasted as long as the original alternator had, but it too, succumbed to the high electrical demands of the accessories. Get a good alternator.
My wifes '92 Sable has also needed an alternator replacement one time. Maybe they got better. It's a ford too. ;-)
Yeah, I should be getting a minimum og 13.5. I checked continulity of all wires and connections. I have had one altenator die in a GM vehicle, but it was a slow death. You could see the gauge on the dash reading less and less until it stopped putting out. This was over a 6 month period. Maybe the previous owner was just oblivious to it. He only used it to go to the dump and plow his driveway, same I am using it for. Maybe he just figured it was cheaper to keep recharging the battery:) Fun this is there were 4 different styles used on my truck. Gonna have to take the old one to the store to make sure I get the right one back.
If you go to an auto-electric shop, they will put your pulley on the replacement alternator, which may not have the same type. I had a serpentine belt with the appropriate pulley and the replacement standard was a v-belt.
Over the counter stores may not care, much less have the equipment to change it for you.
My 2000 F-150 (80k miles)has developed a problem. After it has warmed up, approx. 5 miles driving, the engine starts to miss, sometimes bad enough to make it difficult to maintain 55 mph. It does this for a few minutes then goes away. Runs great otherwise, even when starting out cold. Ford garage replaced #4 coil wire for $150 (supposedly computer said it was bad) but problem still remains. Any suggestions, I'm hesitant to take it back to Ford garage for more "problem solving experimentation". Fuel filter was changed about 3 months ago.
The truck is an 2000 f-350 4x4 crew cab short bed the problem im having is an vibration also A humm that seems to be coming from the rear of the truck, ford has replaced the driveshaft twice and rebuilt the rear axle twice,replaced the mating part between the transmission and transfer case, still have problem, starts at 72mph-80mph worse on decell from that speed,anybody else with ths concern??? also I have 4:30 ratio, any suggestions would be of great help, ford is confused.not me, its your typical ford P.O.S problems and ford wont admit it! have been battling this prblem since 2000 miles old, now has just over 26000 miles, Thanks in advance.
Maybe someone else has an answer, but 80 mph is awfully fast to be running with 4.30 gears, JMO though. There is a lot of rotating mass back there. What kind of tires do you have? I am assuming you have a SRW model. It could be that you got a dreaded lemon, but there are lots of satisfied Superduty owners out there, including myself. Have you tried another dealership? I know your truck is still under warranty, but maybe think about paying a very qualified independent mechanic a couple of hours of labor to get his opinion of the problem. I had a Linclon TC once that developed a vibration in the rearend. The dealership wanted to rebuild the rear axle. I took it to an independent and he replaced the rear U-joint for $30 and fixed the problem.
I don't have your problem and hopefully never will. You may have already considered this, but just throwing out some ideas.
Thanks for your input,Mullins87, I also am very satisfied with my superduty. the vehicle in question is a SRW with stock tires.I have tried one other dealership,it just seems they dont want to spend any time with the truck, my guess is ford wont pay the service tech any time over one hour to find the problem. I live in california and just about everybody drives 80+MPH. At just over 80MPH the truck is as smooth as glass,the RPMs are only 2800, not bad for A smooth as glass V10.
I about fell out of my chair when you stated the engine turned 2,800 rpms at 80 mph. But then you stated you had the V-10, I had assumed you had the PSD. I am also assuming the dealership that has replaced your driveshaft and rear axle also replaced the U-joints. That TC I mentioned would only vibrate on decel at first, but then it got much worse.
I think you're right, they don't want to mess with it. The only other thing I can think of right off the bat is your wheels/tires. Have you tried having them rebalanced? Maybe swap the fronts and rears to see what happens. Try the spare at each location to see if anything changes. If it only happens between 72 - 80, then it is definitely ground speed related, not engine speed.
This is something I would not want to "have to live with" if it were my truck. I have a couple of issues with my truck, but they occur outside my usual operating ranges and with a very small amount of forethought, I can avoid the situations that cause the issues.
Heck, one last thought just came to mind. You could have a rotor that is out of balance. I would look at all rotating parts from the driveshaft back.
Lately when I've started my engine it would rev up a little like normal then stall every now and then. Then yesterday I couldn't keep the engine running without pressing on the gas. My mothers next door nieghbor works for a Lincoln/Mercury dealership and he told me is was the 'Idle Control Motor' (IAC motor). He told me they had gotten a memo because it was happening often. The part cost me $83 with the gasket and took me less time to change it than it takes me to tank up. So if you have this problem don't pay $65 labor to have the part changed, do it yourself. If you take the plastic cover off the top of the engine it's right there in plain view, the highest part on the engine. I would asume that the 5.4L V8 has the same trouble as it's the same motor with more stroke.
If anyone has a 1999 and up F-150 I have a chrome egg crate style grill that I am selling. I also have a lower fascia/bumper with fog light cut outs for sale also.
I no longer own an F-150 but did back in '99 when I changed out my grill to put in a mesh style grill.
I have these items listed at F-150 online in the classified section.
No pressure just didn't want to throw them out when I thought someone might be interested in them like I was 4 years ago. Email me if you have any questions or want to see some pictures.
...this isn't really a problem, but a question but I'm not sure where to post it so I'm trying here:
I'm looking at purchasing a '94 F-150 with the 5.0L V8 and tow package, but manual tranny. Does anyone know what the tow capacityis? Edmunds lists 7500 lbs, but that's the V6 and (I assume) the auto transmission.
Comments
Like I said, there may be a difference in our trucks, but if you want me to, e-mail me and I'll send you my local dealers phone number. Then you can call and see if your dealer is trying to rip you off.
Ford has no 'legal' obligation to help you in any way.. HOWEVER, I have heard of cases similar to what johncos mentions.
=======If this happend to me==========
I would have approached the dealership service manager, and remained polite and professional, and asked if there is any way that they can work with the Ford regional rep to help me out. I'm not asking for a freebie, but can they (FoMoCo) pay 1/2 the cost, or I pay labor and they (FoMoCo) pay parts etc.. Also call the Ford 1-800 customer service number and make a similar request.
I've owned many Fords in the past, and plan to own Fords in the future. I am disappointed with this recent experience, and it doesn't seem like a typical problem, but was just a weird failure.
(Heck, some Fords don't even recommend their first major service until after 100k miles).
=======================
The best way to have FoMoCo or the dealership to completely ignore you or stonewall is to say 'I'll never buy another Ford'. When someone says this, it is clear that no matter what they do, they've lost a customer, so why help them..
In my experience, if you give a company a reasonable chance to show their commitment to customers, they will help as any business as successful as Ford knows the value of repeat customers.
This doesn't mean be a 'whimp', but it is possible to be firm.. This doesn't always work but I think I double my chances of getting a favorable outcome because I get 2 tries,
Try 1: be a nice guy, (but firm)
Try 2: then use the law (not so nice guy).
Whereas if you use (not so nice guy) first, there's no going back.
Even though I've had clutch problems in the past (the clutch master cylinder went out at about 4K miles), it doesn't seem to be a clutch problem causing this. The clutch is fully engaging and disengaging during normal use in about the middle of the clutch pedal stroke.
Any ideas? I haven't yet brought it in to the dealer. I'd like to have some clues about what might be causing this so that I can make a semi-informed argument about it being a warranty issue (only 13K miles on the truck). I'd sure appreciate some help on this one.
Tranny stuff:
What I know/knew is that manual trannies have a synchronizer that is supposed to align the gears when you depress the clutch. The clutch, when not pressed in, still allows the shaft to turn inside your tranny. So when you go to put it back into gear, the gears are not lined up properly if the synchronizer is not right.
Another possibility could be the pressure plate. When you depress your clutch you are causing a yoke and "through-out bearing" to push against the pressure plate, and therefore releasing the pressure that holds the clutch engaged to your flywheel. You said you had work done on your truck, it is quite possible that the parts changer( I mean mechanic) did not get the clutch adjusted properly. It may be possible that there is air in the clutch system not releasing the pressure plate all the way.
These are just a couple ideas, I hope they help.
Only about 4k difference to start with.
Most dealers are selling the new truck for invoice or less, so the difference is even less than 4k.
Then add in the super low financing (0% in some rare cases), and generally financing rates are lower on new vehicles than used.
Only 2 years of warranty left on the 2001, vs 3years of warranty on a new 2002.
All of these factors may cause folks to come to the decision point:
-do I take a chance on a used vehicle that I don't know anything about.
-or buy a brand new 2002 off the dealer lot with 0 miles on it, and full warranty, lower fianancing etc.
On the average, car dealers are suffering just like you.. It's not a sellers market to begin with.
The PSD engine has a 100K warranty (not the rest of the truck, just the engine including electrical, injectors, fuel pumps etc.)
If maintain properly, the PSD will last a very long time as there are folks with hunderds of thousands of miles on them. (my little brothers PSD has well over 100k). He bought the truck used with around 75k miles on it, and had a problem where it sometimes was hard to start.. The dealership (in AK) replaced all of the injectors free of charge.
As with most larger trucks, the automatic trannys take a beating and its important to watch the tranny temp closely when hauling. But even with this, the trannys do hold up with periodic flush/fluid changes. With the manual tranny, the main factor is how you drive it.. I've not heard of anyone with clutch problems (probably because the of the creeper 1st gear that can get even the largest loads moving without abusing the clutch).
I have an 00 F250 5.4L 5sp 4x2 4.10LS with 49k miles. The only 'problems' were a speed sensor and IAC valve both replace under the 36k warranty.
I don't know if you are familiar with a diesel and its operation, but you can't drive it like a gasser eventhough mine drives more like a gasser than any other diesel I've ever driven. They may be a little inconvenient at times, but they'll serve you well.
The reason I am interested in the track record of diesels used in trucks is that I had a Ford E-250 van years ago with one of the first diesels and it holed a piston at 65,000 miles. With a 100,000 mile warranty that would definitely be a major inconvenience, but not a catastrophe. I notice Dodge shows a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty. How many years does Ford offer now?
You mentioned you can't drive a diesel the way you can a gasoline engine, mullins 87. What are you referring to?
I appreciate both of your responses, and would appreciate any from anyone else out there, as well.
I do know Ford offers a 100k mile warranty on the engine. I think it is 5 years, PSD only though.
in 1999. Problems I had:
new- someone at dealer took floor mats between signing agreement and bringing in money to pick up next day. i recieved a "voucher " for mats.
10,000 miles- 1 side mirror clouded. Dealer
replaced it with different style and actually let me drive away like that. I took back for another
2 month wait for same style other side.
35,998 miles- ignition switch quit working. I
replaced myself when ford authorized tow never showed.
40,000 ,miles a engine coil wore out (I guess there are 8 of these), cost me $450 at ford dealer.
53,000 miles today- Present condition- driveline shudders when step on gas from dead stop. I took
it in for routine pads, brake shop said rotors are rusted ( I drive everyday). Leather seats are cracking.
I also own an 01 expedition, also had engine coil go out at 13,000 miles, luckily under warranty.
Well, I considered buying another ford
but has anyone noticed how low mileage is on fords ?
Well I believe in supporting America but I also
need to buy a product I percieve to offer good service at a fair price, so I bought a 03 Toyota
RAV 4 made in Japan. I am getting 30 MPG. It is perfect.
Now I want to replace the Toyota emblems with Ford emblems, maybe go to Toys are us and get some "Excalibur" or "Extraterrestrial" chrome
sign to put on back. This would be a real gas.
I think people will go nuts and run to there Ford dealer looking for one of these.
Thanks
Thanks,
Steve
Are you having problems with the truck dying, or with a dead battery?
I had an 88 Sable that was not kind to alternators.
After a couple short lived units from Grand Auto, I concluded that paying more for a quality unit from a local auto-electric shop was worth a try. That unit lasted as long as the original alternator had, but it too, succumbed to the high electrical demands of the accessories.
Get a good alternator.
My wifes '92 Sable has also needed an alternator replacement one time. Maybe they got better. It's a ford too. ;-)
Thanks for the info,
Steve
Over the counter stores may not care, much less have the equipment to change it for you.
Steve
When the IAC goes bad, the vehicle fails to idle and just stalls, thus making it appear that the mechanism is an automatic idle controller..
but its really an IAC..
I don't have your problem and hopefully never will. You may have already considered this, but just throwing out some ideas.
I think you're right, they don't want to mess with it. The only other thing I can think of right off the bat is your wheels/tires. Have you tried having them rebalanced? Maybe swap the fronts and rears to see what happens. Try the spare at each location to see if anything changes. If it only happens between 72 - 80, then it is definitely ground speed related, not engine speed.
This is something I would not want to "have to live with" if it were my truck. I have a couple of issues with my truck, but they occur outside my usual operating ranges and with a very small amount of forethought, I can avoid the situations that cause the issues.
Heck, one last thought just came to mind. You could have a rotor that is out of balance. I would look at all rotating parts from the driveshaft back.
I no longer own an F-150 but did back in '99 when I changed out my grill to put in a mesh style grill.
I have these items listed at F-150 online in the classified section.
No pressure just didn't want to throw them out when I thought someone might be interested in them like I was 4 years ago. Email me if you have any questions or want to see some pictures.
http://www.f150online.com/classifieds/viewuser.cfm?uid=331
I'm looking at purchasing a '94 F-150 with the 5.0L V8 and tow package, but manual tranny. Does anyone know what the tow capacityis? Edmunds lists 7500 lbs, but that's the V6 and (I assume) the auto transmission.
If anyone knows, please let me know. Thanks.